| Author |
Message |
    
bill vizzachero (208.59.99.1)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 06:48 pm: | 
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I use a cyclindrical 5 gal. cooler for mashing with a Phil's false bottom. The runoff exits through 3/8 clear plastic tubing with a roller clamp. I'm constantly adjusting the roller clamp to get the flow just right. Does any one have any ideas to modify this.
thanks |
Connie (12.92.211.225)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 06:52 pm: |
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install a bulkhead fitting with a ball valve, works great |
davidw (65.196.221.167)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 06:53 pm: |
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This is what you need. I screwed around with a 3/8" homemade setup in my ten gallon cooler until I realized the futility of it. This will make your life much easier. NAYY. |
Tom Gardner (162.119.240.100)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 06:54 pm: |
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the Bazooka screen works well in my 5 and 10 gal Gotts. NAJASCYY |
Patrick C. (204.176.16.97)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2003 - 07:43 pm: |
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Or you could batch sparge. No need to futz with the clamp to get a precise flow rate. If you don't want to batch sparge, you could "semi-batch" sparge, which is what I do. After I recirculate a couple of quarts, I start the runoff as usual. I then add sparge water until the cooler is full. Let it continue to run off, and when it gets down to half full or so add more sparge water. |
Connie (12.92.214.39)
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2003 - 01:57 am: |
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this may help,
http://www.ingermann.com/brewing.html
click on mashtun |
chumley (199.92.192.126)
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2003 - 03:14 am: |
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Or, if you want the simple approach, do what I do. I have a 5-gallon bucket with a phalse bottom and the same roller clamp. I gave up trying to regulate flow with the clamp long ago.
Instead, when I start sparging, I hold the pan collecting the runoff to a level where the tubing outlet is just below the level of the fluid level of the mash. This causes very slow runoff. After receirculating a few quarts this way, the filter bed will set, the runoff will clear, and will slow down on its own. At that point I stick the tubing outlet and don't care about it anymore. Then I fly sparge. I get 70 to 85% efficiency.
If you let 'er rip at the beginning, as I'm sure you have found up, the grains will settle and you'll have a stuck sparge. By taking 5-10 minutes to slowly get started, you can get complete lautering and sparging in 45-60 minutes with no worries. |
bill vizzachero (208.59.96.28)
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2003 - 10:50 am: |
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thanks for the info guys. It really helps. I do like the bulkhead fitting idea using the stainless steel type washing machine tubing and cutting the ends off. This would eliminate the Phils product all together. There was a detailed picture on this website a few weeks ago so if any one knows where it is, I would appreciate it. Connie, thanks for the exploded picture from the brewrats/ingerman site. This bulkhead with the stainless washing machine tubing is what I want to make. |
Greg Nolan (207.221.39.77)
| | Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 01:11 am: |
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I started with a ball valve and rigged bulhead out of stuff laying around the garage. However, I was tired of stuck mashes so I went with 1/2 inch solid copper tubing on the inside and using a 90 degree elbow dropped the 1/2 inch copper into the center of stainless false bottom purchased from BBB. i did not solder any of this together. I just depend on a good fit. I also went with 3/8 inch copper on the outside. It is great! I have not had a stuck mash since and i can go as slow or fast as I want. |
Brews and Views Archive 2003