| Author |
Message |
    
Paul Hoepper
Junior Member
Username: Hep
Post Number: 92
Registered: 03-2003
Posted From: 220.239.88.32
| | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 09:29 am: | 
|
Guys,
I am in the process of building a single tier system with converted kegs using braided hose in the mash tun. I am interested to hear about any issues with using a pump & braided hoses.
Cheers
Paul |
Mike Mayer
Advanced Member
Username: Mmayer
Post Number: 671
Registered: 12-2002
Posted From: 68.250.49.65
| | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 12:54 pm: |
|
No issues here. I use four sections of ~6" arranged in an "H" configuration with a single pickup in the center. Has worked flawlessy, and have never had a stuck sparge.. I would recommend putting springs inside of the braid however to prevent collapse. |
John Ferens
Member
Username: John_ferens
Post Number: 107
Registered: 05-2003
Posted From: 68.234.152.92
| | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 04:37 pm: |
|
"springs inside the braid" - excellent idea! |
Tony Legge
Member
Username: Boo_boo
Post Number: 172
Registered: 05-2005
Posted From: 142.163.76.194
| | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 05:38 pm: |
|
I made a "spring" out of copper wire wound around a post small enough so that the "spring" was small enough to fit inside my SS braid. In addition to keeping the braid from collapsing it also keeps the braid on the bottom of my tun so my braid don't float in the mash. |
don price
Advanced Member
Username: Donzoid
Post Number: 866
Registered: 02-2003
Posted From: 24.94.120.128
| | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 10:35 pm: |
|
I used some 3/4" x 18" hose that was intended for use with hot water heaters. A 3/4" copper cap makes a fine end piece and a 3/4" x 1/2" copper reducer helps mate it up to the threaded coupling in my kettle...just add SS clamps. The heater hose braid is quite stiff. I run my HERMS/RIMS pump wide open with no problems. I don't think I'll ever go back to a false bottom.
Don |
dhacker
Intermediate Member
Username: Dhacker
Post Number: 284
Registered: 11-2002
Posted From: 72.155.201.186
| | Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 11:59 pm: |
|
I made coils from bare #8 solid copper wire and wound it on a wooden dowel, then slid it OVER the stainless braid in my mash tun. Much easier than trying to wind it small enough to go inside the braid and provides more than enough support to keep the braid from collapsing under weight, or being damaged from inadvertent contact with the mash paddle.
Although Mike suggested springs, I'd recommend not using just any type of spring because of corrosion or galvanic reaction . . Stainless spring or copper coil is your best bet. |
Paul Hoepper
Junior Member
Username: Hep
Post Number: 93
Registered: 03-2003
Posted From: 220.239.88.32
| | Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 02:16 am: |
|
Guys,
Any problems with air in your lines as you get near the end of your transfer. I did a trial run with water & as I got near the end my braid floated & cut my transfer short. I would suppose that when I have grain in the tun the braid shouldn't float about so much.
Cheers
Paul |
dhacker
Intermediate Member
Username: Dhacker
Post Number: 285
Registered: 11-2002
Posted From: 70.146.180.195
| | Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 12:00 pm: |
|
I suppose there are several ways to keep the braided hose from 'floating'. . . As Tony mentioned, adding springs or copper coil will contribute added weight. A more rigid connection to the outlet port probably would help too. I use a 60 quart Gott cooler and put bulkhead outlets at each end and combine them into one on the outside front through 1/2" rigid copper pipe. The effect, other than to have a very efficient drain, is to keep the 4 rows of pickup braid solidly fixed to the bottom of the tun. |
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