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Brews & Views Bulletin Board Service * Brews and Views Archive 2008 * Archive through October 08, 2008 * Where to attach pump? < Previous Next >

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mark taylor
Member
Username: Marktaylo

Post Number: 159
Registered: 06-2003
Posted From: 99.170.151.218
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2008 - 05:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I made a brew sculpture http://bp3.blogger.com/_QnWMzNoOKj0/SHKyOBoHSlI/AAAAAAAAAEo/h0kxyEudY60/s320/scu lpture2.bmp

and want to now attach a new Shirron chiller and March pump I just bought that can also be easily removed when needed. Are there recommendations and suggestions for placement? If you have pics that would be helpful.
Thanks
 

Rob Farrell
Advanced Member
Username: Robf

Post Number: 508
Registered: 02-2003
Posted From: 96.240.147.225
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2008 - 10:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The pump should be below the kettle to get it primed. The chiller can be anywhere nearby.
 

Bob Wall
Senior Member
Username: Brewdudebob

Post Number: 1798
Registered: 11-2004
Posted From: 71.204.51.87
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2008 - 01:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Mark, I have a three tier system much like yours. Here are a few pics of my rig and as you can see I made a utility shelf opposite the brew kettle where I mounted my pump & water filter, and where I put my Therminator. I don't actually mount my therminator as I think it is easier to clean when it is dismounted.

Here's a clip of me cleaning it:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2486099567818873678&q=source:012573124419657518400&hl=en



 

mark taylor
Member
Username: Marktaylo

Post Number: 162
Registered: 06-2003
Posted From: 99.170.151.218
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2008 - 02:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks Bob,
It looks like your wort is running to the pump inlet at bottom (as pictured)of the pump and then is pumped up throught shut off to the chiller? Do you have any trapped air problems? Do you have a screen of sorts on the pic-up tube in your boil pot?
thanks
 

Bob Wall
Senior Member
Username: Brewdudebob

Post Number: 1799
Registered: 11-2004
Posted From: 71.204.51.87
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2008 - 03:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Mark,

I run my wort through silicone tubing and it hangs lower than the pump so that I get no air pockets. I wait a good five minutes after flame-out as boiling liquid can cause cavitation. See the link below if you want to see a whole brewing session condensed into about 1/2 hour. Also here are some pics of my false bottom.

Enjoy:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=5301445893203080773

and the picss:


 

mark taylor
Member
Username: Marktaylo

Post Number: 163
Registered: 06-2003
Posted From: 99.170.151.218
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2008 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Bob,
I plan on using a s.s.braided hose to filter stuff from my boil pot. I use hop bags in the boil. Should I be concerned about the loose dregs being pumped through my Shirron chiller?
 

Bob Wall
Senior Member
Username: Brewdudebob

Post Number: 1801
Registered: 11-2004
Posted From: 71.204.51.87
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2008 - 04:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Not really, but you will want to flush your Shirron with hot water immediately after you are done, while it is still hot and wet, then re-circulate hot PBW or Oxi-Clean FREE. You really cannot avoid getting small particles in your chiller, and I dont even fight it. Most times I brew (unless I have an IPA hop bill) I don't even use hop socks. If you watched my video, you will see that my false bottom created it's own filter bed when I did my sanitation loop.

Since you are using braided SS hose, I would definitely use hop socks as I have heard of other guys clogging the braided hose. I imagine your braided hose would filter out all but the tiniest particles making your cleanup a bit less tedious and time-consuming than mine.
 

Destroyer
Junior Member
Username: Destroyer

Post Number: 97
Registered: 07-2007
Posted From: 68.36.6.194
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2008 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hey Bob, nice setup. I'm currently trying to plumb a false bottom into my kettle and I've got a couple of questions: Where'd you get the stainless tubing? Can you bend it by hand? Also, is the amount of liquid at the end of the video all that's left behind? If so, that's fantastic - I leave much more behind right now with a bazooka screen in there.
 

Bob Wall
Senior Member
Username: Brewdudebob

Post Number: 1807
Registered: 11-2004
Posted From: 71.204.51.87
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2008 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Destroyer,

I got mine from a now defunct company called Stainless In Seattle. I would recommend using a tubing bender if you want to make your own. Yes, the amount of liquid at the end of the video is what is left behind. I think my pick-up tube is roughly 1/4" off the bottom of the kettle.

More Beer has a kit that is very similar to mine, they have one that you need to have welded, and a weld-free kit. I prefer the welded, but you have to consider your accessibility to a competent stainless welder.

http://morebeer.com/view_product/19807//Weldless_Mash_Keg_Conversion_-_Stainless

Below are some pics of mine. I have taken it apart so you can see all the parts. The pickup tube is 1/2" OD Stainless pipe that goes into a stainless compression fitting.
http://morebeer.com/view_product/17434//Stainless_-_1_2%22_Comp._x_1_2%22_MPT

The compression fitting has an inner compression ring that has wedged itself into the pickup tube so I can't slide it off. The compression fitting threads into a stainless full coupler:
http://morebeer.com/view_product/17445//Stainless_Full_Coupler_-_1_2%22

On the outside, I use a stainless nipple to join the full coupler to the stainless Parker ball valve.
http://morebeer.com/view_product/17411//Stainless_Nipple_-_1_2_x_1%22__Threaded





(Message edited by BrewDudeBob on September 21, 2008)
 

Destroyer
Junior Member
Username: Destroyer

Post Number: 98
Registered: 07-2007
Posted From: 68.36.6.194
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2008 - 04:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Bob, you're the man. Thanks for the reply and the pictures. It's remarkable that you take the time to do that.

Currently I have everything you have (L-R in that last picture) from QD to SS full coupler on my system. From there I go to the bazooka screen, which I'll take out because it just doesn't fit the geometry of the kettle right. I've got an old SS false bottom too, so I just need the SS tube and compression fitting. I'll do some hunting for those parts, but now that I see your list, I realize I'm much closer to done than I thought.

Thanks.
 

Bob Wall
Senior Member
Username: Brewdudebob

Post Number: 1808
Registered: 11-2004
Posted From: 71.204.51.87
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2008 - 04:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

No problem, Today is keg cleaning day and I needed to clean the parts and replace the teflon tape anyway.
 

danno
Advanced Member
Username: Danno

Post Number: 737
Registered: 03-2002
Posted From: 75.164.130.60
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2008 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have the same system as Bob and with similar modifications except that I use a Hobby Beverage mash tun. Pictures are here: http://www.oregonbrewcrew.com/schultz

The dip tube is the only way with a converted keg and the FB is a great way to screen hops.

I also second having the chiller on a separate, portable stand. It makes cleaning and sanitizing easy because you can haul it to the sink or hose.

You need a tubing bender for the 1/2" tubing. If you want to mail me a length of tubing, I'll bend it for you. Just include return postage.

(Message edited by danno on September 21, 2008)
 

Vance Barnes
Senior Member
Username: Vancebarnes

Post Number: 3389
Registered: 03-2003
Posted From: 74.7.7.66
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2008 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

"but you have to consider your accessibility to a competent stainless welder."

Not if you use Paul's super solder system from a recent thread.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFS75

Man Danno, that's some really purdy SS plumbing you've got there.

(Message edited by vancebarnes on September 22, 2008)
 

Destroyer
Junior Member
Username: Destroyer

Post Number: 100
Registered: 07-2007
Posted From: 68.36.6.194
Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2008 - 01:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks danno! I might just take you up on that offer. I've got a call in to B3 to see if they'll sell me one of their already-bent diptubes. Prices are actually competitive with McMaster, so I'm hoping I get just get it from them. Unfortunately, nobody's tried to buy just the tube from them, so they have to check for availability and pricing and all that.

But if they don't come through, I'll be sending you an email!

Out of curiousity, what tubing bender do you have? I had no idea how pricey they were, but after seeing your plumbing, I can see how it might be worth it.

B3 actually came through with a great price, so I ordered the diptube from them. Thanks again, though.

(Message edited by destroyer on September 23, 2008)
 

Jeff Preston
Intermediate Member
Username: Jeffpreston

Post Number: 331
Registered: 02-2004
Posted From: 142.161.181.127
Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2008 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I use a cheap 1/2 inch tubing bender made for copper tubing. It will work for stainless but you just have to bend it slowly. Pretty easy actually, I've bent 4 dip tubes with no problem.