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Brews & Views Bulletin Board Service * Brews and Views Archive 2006 * Archive through December 23, 2006 * Links for making all grain setup < Previous Next >

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Adam Puzerewski
New Member
Username: Vgonman

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 70.144.54.157
Posted on Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 10:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

hello,
I have been brewing for 1 1/2 yrs, extract and partial grain. I have now 2 5 gallon igloo style coolers, and want to convert and try all-grain. I cannot find online a site that tells me exactly what i need and how to proceed to make this happen. I always find articles in BYO showing how to make a component, but really do not know what it is for or why. I would like to manufacture as many of the components as possible in keeping with the DIY aspect of the hobby.........
 

Jeff Preston
Member
Username: Jeffpreston

Post Number: 212
Registered: 02-2004
Posted From: 207.161.32.160
Posted on Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

John Palmer's book "How to brew" is a good source and it is available online. I don't have the link but you could google it.
 

Graham Cox
Advanced Member
Username: T2driver

Post Number: 796
Registered: 11-2004
Posted From: 68.32.253.156
Posted on Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 03:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Here's a great guide from one of our own:

http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/
 

Connie
Advanced Member
Username: Connie

Post Number: 889
Registered: 10-2000
Posted From: 24.98.76.59
Posted on Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 06:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

and some configurations:
http://www.brewzilla.nl/brewhalla.htm
 

KeepBrewing
Member
Username: Kb7

Post Number: 169
Registered: 05-2002
Posted From: 24.184.80.79
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 04:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

interesting site connie
 

Adam Puzerewski
New Member
Username: Vgonman

Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 70.144.54.157
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 11:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

These links should get me rolling around. Everyone did it a different way, with similar end results. Fun would definately be in cobbling the parts together. Some of those links have a lot of dtail for each system on the brewzilla site........
 

Richard Nye
Senior Member
Username: Yeasty_boy

Post Number: 1893
Registered: 01-2004
Posted From: 68.4.202.69
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Building a brewery is a personal thing. You can customize it just the way you like it. The important thing is to get started. By brewing you will learn the process and what's important and what's not. I've got a Sabco Brew Magic (after building several "pilot" breweries) and I've already made a half dozen or so modifications to suit my needs. For me, that's some of the fun of this obsession.
 

Tim Wi
Advanced Member
Username: Riverkeeper

Post Number: 656
Registered: 03-2005
Posted From: 170.141.68.2
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

search this site and the other forums. TONS of good design info here.

T
 

Tim W
Member
Username: Timw

Post Number: 212
Registered: 03-2003
Posted From: 4.244.159.165
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 02:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

A 5 gal cooler is too small to be used for all-grain brewing, 10 gal. is almost too small, so if your going to get a new cooler I would get one of those new 15 gal square looking extreme coolers.

For a drain consider using a Bazooka-T from northernbrewer.com. You can modify this by soldering on some 1/4" copper tubing about 24" long and then clamp on some flexible tubing to this.

When your ready to sparge, stir in your sparge water and quickly insert the modified Bazooka-T. You can then start a siphon and drain into a 6 gal. bucket.
 

Dan Listermann
Senior Member
Username: Listermann

Post Number: 3775
Registered: 03-2004
Posted From: 65.29.220.144
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 03:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

A five gallon cooler can mash and sparge 12 pounds. At 28 points per pound, this works out to 336 points or a 1.067 gravity five gallon batch. Not a bad place to start. I brewed with one for years and still do for small batches.

Dan

--This space is STILL being left intentionally blank.-


 

Tim W
Member
Username: Timw

Post Number: 213
Registered: 03-2003
Posted From: 56.0.143.25
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

A 5 gal. mash tun does not have enough head room to add a suffient amount of water to batch sparge. A 15 gal. cooler can be bought for less than 25 bucks and if he uses the bazooka-t device he would not have to modify the cooler and can use it for other purposes.
 

Dan Listermann
Senior Member
Username: Listermann

Post Number: 3779
Registered: 03-2004
Posted From: 216.23.59.245
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 05:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

When I tried batch sparging, I drained the mash tun and then added sparge water. It was no problem what-so-ever. What is the advantage in adding the sparge water to the full mash? It cannot be as efficient.

I used a five gallon cooler too!

Dan

--This space is STILL being left intentionally blank.-


 

Aaron MacDonald
Member
Username: Inveigler

Post Number: 127
Registered: 02-2003
Posted From: 167.242.48.41
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Have to agree with Dan here. For a long time, I used a 5 gallon cooler. I could easily hold 12 lbs of grain. I would batch sparge twice to get enough runnings up to 6.5 gallons. Efficiency ran about 67%. Tough to do big beers, but other than that no problems.

Depending on what the poster wants to brew, this may be fine. I would note, however, that the poster notes he has "2" 5 gallon coolers. If you are thinking of converting 2 coolers so you can do bigger batches/bigger gravity, you should heed Tim's advice and buy a new cooler. It would be cheaper to buy one bigger cooler and convert it to a mash tun than to convert 2 5 gallon coolers.
 

Denny Conn
Senior Member
Username: Denny

Post Number: 6062
Registered: 01-2001
Posted From: 140.211.82.4
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 06:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Adding the "sparge" water to the full mash before draining is essentially a no sparge brew and will indeed have an impact on your efficiency.
LIfe begins at 60...1.060, that is.
 

Bill Pierce
Moderator
Username: Billpierce

Post Number: 6041
Registered: 01-2002
Posted From: 24.57.224.220
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 06:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Yeah, I've never seem a lot of benefit to adding the "sparge" water to the mash before draining the first runnings. On the other hand, batch sparging (adding the sparge water in one or two batches after draining the first runnings) has some advantages in terms of equipment and convenience.
 

Ken Anderson
Senior Member
Username: Ken75

Post Number: 1852
Registered: 11-2002
Posted From: 69.168.130.193
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Ten gallon batches out of a 48 qt cooler always require me to add two charges after draining the first runnings. And even the strike water fills it damned near to the top. These are 1.060 beers I'm talking here. I shoot for 13 to 13.25 gallons pre-boil.

Ken
 

Bill Tobler
Intermediate Member
Username: Billt

Post Number: 389
Registered: 08-2001
Posted From: 68.201.218.172
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I used a 5 gallon system for years and was very happy. Moved to a 10 gallon HERMS cause I could. If one is only going to make 5 gallon batches, the 5 gallon coolers have a small footprint and store easily.

Here is another link to some good web sites.

http://brewery.mvlan.net/folder/011/Homebreweries%20Directory/#B
Bill Tobler
Brewing Great Beer in South Texas
 

Belly Buster Bob
Senior Member
Username: Canman

Post Number: 2674
Registered: 02-2003
Posted From: 74.119.173.225
Posted on Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 01:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

hey Adam....2 5gal igloos....you already have a brewery. You can brew with what you have first to find out if you even want to continue. then spend money on nifty straining devices later.
grain bags can be had cheap for seperating the wort from the mash. I'm sure you already have a reasonably large pot or two in the house.
Do some reading, start with a "reasonable" beer and have at'er
Bellybuster Bob
www.bellybuster.netfirms.com
 

Adam Puzerewski
New Member
Username: Vgonman

Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2006
Posted From: 70.144.47.87
Posted on Thursday, December 21, 2006 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks,guys. I am reading up, and hoe to try first all grain batch in next couple months. I wish i had a local expert to show me the ropes (I am in Charleston SC area)