| Author |
Message |
    
Wm John Ivey (67.40.80.137)
| | Posted on Friday, March 07, 2003 - 09:40 pm: | 
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Gonna built a mash tun in the old cooler in the back yard, and I am excited over this ss braided hose idea. I was simply gonna place it over 1/2" cu, but I notice in ELK's version he used 1/2to3/8 reducers, to I need to find them? I was thinking of using the design from How to brew with the ss hose, instead of the slotted cu, is for four strands to much for batch sparging?
Thanks
John |
Steven Edward Haun (24.220.0.48)
| | Posted on Friday, March 07, 2003 - 10:02 pm: |
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I currently use one strand down the length of my rectangular cooler. Works great but I am thinking of adding a second if I convert my systems to a HERMS. |
Bill Pierce (208.57.122.28)
| | Posted on Friday, March 07, 2003 - 10:26 pm: |
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I don't know that it matters all that much whether you use 1/2 in. or 3/8 in. O.D. stainless hose braid in a mash tun. My thought is that because both are about the same price (roughly $1.25 per foot in 8 ft. lengths) you might as well go with the 1/2 in. diameter. |
Jake Isaacs (128.163.110.72)
| | Posted on Friday, March 07, 2003 - 10:39 pm: |
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Bill, I think he's asking about the copper fittings. It's much easier to fit over 3/8" fittings, but can be frayed out a bit and pushed over 1/2" without much trouble. Held in place with SS hose clamps, of course. |
ELK (66.219.192.12)
| | Posted on Friday, March 07, 2003 - 10:57 pm: |
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I found that the braided washer hose cover fit just right over those 1/2 x 1/4 reducers. They are only .27$ and then you can just pull off the copper tubing to clean up...I did just go out in the garage and cut off a 3" piece and it will go over a 1/2" cu tube..Just barely..Plan on getting some holes in your hands that hurt like a cactus. Remember to try to make all the water flow equal distances before going into a hard pipe. Overall I think these hoses work so well at distributing out the drainage area that you cant go wrong. Try to keep away from the cooler sides and remember as some have posted and I found out the hose is kinda light and will move around when stirring so maybe put on some fittings on the loose end or a bar like I did that will keep it centered and down. |
Wm John Ivey (67.40.80.137)
| | Posted on Friday, March 07, 2003 - 11:11 pm: |
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Thanks guys, Home Depot didn't have reducers that small so I'll try Lowes. If the hose barely fit over the 1/2" pipe going over Ts and elbows will be out of question. Any reason why noone secures the hose to bottom of the cooler?
Thanks
John |
Wayne M (152.163.188.67)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2003 - 01:16 am: |
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Even though you are using braid, this site by John Palmer really tells a story about fluid flow in mash tun coolers. Good design tips.
http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/fluidflow.html
Have Fun!
Wayne |
ELK (66.219.192.12)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2003 - 04:57 am: |
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After reading such useful information like that in the above thread I gave it my best shot. I also read another study that was more analytical. My attempt doesn't look like so much of an overkill after you read that report. I am a little worried about how the fittings produce dead spots near each end but I did the best I could.
 |
Denny Conn (63.114.138.2)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 08, 2003 - 07:45 pm: |
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ELK's setup is beautiful, but if you're sure you're gonn be batch sparging, it's way overkill. A single run down the center is all that's really required. Doing it that way, I get 75-95% efficiency, depending on the grist and mash schedule. In batch sparging, there are no worries about runoff channeling, so a simple system is all that's needed. |
Kevin Collins (64.154.102.4)
| | Posted on Monday, March 10, 2003 - 03:47 am: |
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Go with the braided ss hose. It really works and is worth the time and minimal expense. I hardly had to recirculate at all, it works very nice.
I just replaced my rectangular slotted manifold and got the 2 pack of washing machine braided ss hose from Home Depot $14. I removed the vinyl tube from inside the ss (a pain in the ...), then hooked each end to an opening on the old manifold with band clamps. I plugged the other to holes in the copper tubing. |
Kevin Collins (64.154.96.169)
| | Posted on Monday, March 10, 2003 - 03:29 pm: |
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Another thought, why not just put it inside your existing copper manifold, then it cant swim around. |
Chad W. Pippin (216.98.194.62)
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 - 11:30 pm: |
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I have thought about useing these in the bottom of my converted keg in conjuction with a dip tube to filter boil trub. Any thoughts/comments?? |
Denny Conn (63.114.138.2)
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2003 - 11:38 pm: |
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Chad, I tried that...it clogged almost immediately. YMMV. |
Jake Isaacs (128.163.110.72)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 12, 2003 - 12:54 am: |
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Chad, I use one in the form of a ring around the bottom of the kettle. Never had a clog or slow drain (using whole hops, at least), but I'm using a flat-bottomed kettle. |
Brews and Views Archive 2003