| Author |
Message |
    
Hoody (65.179.233.243)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 04:47 am: | 
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Ok, I am needing to pick a recipe for next weekends brew session and I am picking the acclaimed SSOS. So I load it up in Promash and notice the 130 IBU's. So I start doubting my decision, so I archive this brew on the board. I found that several people have FWH the flavoring hops in this beer and liked it.
Here's my recipe:
Ingredients for Five Gallons:
13# Hugh Baird English Pale malted barley
1/4# Hugh Baird 135L crystal malt
1/4# Great Western malted wheat
3 oz Chinook hops (60 minutes)
2 oz East Kent Golding hops (15 minutes)
2 oz imported Fuggle hops (while chilling)
1 tsp. Irish Moss (@30 minute mark)
•Wyeast 1028 (London Ale), pint starter.
So here are my questions:
Wouldn't FWH just increase the IBU's?
And does boiling the hops increase bitterness?
The guy who designed this beer reccomends against FWH the Fuggles, and suggests letting the hops steep while chilling.
Any reccomendations with this beer? I would also not like to have to wait 6 months to let this beer settle down before I can drink it. So with that in mind would you scale down a bit on the Chinooks?
Any help before I brew this would be greatly appreciated.
TIA,
Jason. |
chumley (63.227.170.31)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 05:07 am: |
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>>Any reccomendations with this beer?
Don't be a snivelly Idaho-wus potato farmer, brew the recipe as is, drink it fresh, and enjoy the hops.
Skoal! |
ELK (24.10.168.30)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 05:10 am: |
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My SSOS is 18 days in primary..I wonder if I should check on it? I just have been lazy this week and have not racked to glass secondary. I followed the recipe and my promash came out at 170 ibus. I pulled my hops out at the start of cooling. Maybe I should just keg 1/2 of it and taste it? I love this beer. My take on this beer is "It's not for the Hop wimp!"
ELK |
Bill Tobler (216.99.65.10)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 05:27 am: |
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I'm with you ELK. That is one d*amm good beer as is. I need to put it on my list this spring. I was just reading the article in Zymurgy about Double IPA's. Mmmm, there's potential here.... |
robert rulmyr (63.156.128.11)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 01:02 pm: |
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My SSOS is 14 days in the primary today, kegging sometime today. This is the 3rd time for this great beer.
Most people figure FWH like it is a 20 minute boil addition. The Chinooks in this recipe put the IBUs at maximum, so don't worry about the IBUs from the FWH addition.
This beer is wonderful, I start drinking it after about 4 weeks from the primary.
WacoBob |
Chad Dickinson (207.206.223.66)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 02:26 pm: |
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I did DC's Rye PA 2 weeks ago. I guess I misunderstood FWH. I threw the hops in the boil kettle while I was bringing it up to boil. Are you supposed to remove them once the boil begins, and then just add your 60 min bittering hops? Or do you leave the FWH in the boil as well? |
Chad Dickinson (207.206.223.66)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 02:26 pm: |
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I did DC's Rye PA 2 weeks ago. I guess I misunderstood FWH. I threw the hops in the boil kettle while I was bringing it up to boil. Are you supposed to remove them once the boil begins, and then just add your 60 min bittering hops? Or do you leave the FWH in the boil as well? |
Jeff Preston (207.161.34.16)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 03:04 pm: |
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Best time to FWH is in the kettle before you collect the first runnings. Just leave them in there until cleanup. They tend to up the bitterness a bit but it is a nice soft flavour. I do it in every brew now. |
Chad Dickinson (207.206.223.102)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 03:45 pm: |
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Cool, so I did it right. |
ELK (24.10.168.30)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 05:22 pm: |
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What kind of conditioning temps should you aim for with this beer after it is done fermenting? I might rack of to secondary for only a few days to clean it up but might keg soon? then to the fridge at 40 or 48 or what?
ELK |
Bill Pierce (24.141.129.137)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 05:32 pm: |
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Ideally the beer should condition at "cellar temperature" (50-55 F), but it's not critical. Conditioning too warm (above 75 F) will accelerate staling, and too cool (below 40 F) will diminish the fruity character of the beer. |
Denny Conn (140.211.82.4)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 07:48 pm: |
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Chad, you should have had the hops in the kettle all the time you were running off. Let them soak in the wort during the first runoff and sparge, then leave them in all the way through the boil. |
Brews and Views Archive 2004