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Bob McCouch (
Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2002 - 01:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I promised someone from another thread that I'd put up some pics of my new 3-tier built from wire rack shelving.

Each platform is 18" square and has a burner mounted underneath it. The burners are secured in three ways. The burner is mounted to an aluminum bracket which is bolted into the upright, it has a copper pipe hanger to secure it (and level it) to the shelf above, and it gets additional stability from the soft copper tubing that extends from the ball valve controlling gas flow on the black pipe gas system.

The wires of each shelf that are directly over the burner flame do glow red hot during high-output operation, but they hold securely. I exchanged emails with someone else using this same setup, and he said that after 15 brews, his shelves are still solid. And if one does become damaged, a new one is about $15 at the local Organized Living store.

On to the photo narritives... The pics are in the next post.

1) An overview of the whole system. The HLT is my old 15-gallon aluminum brew pot. The kegs are both the "Build it Yourself" option from Sabco (meaning they cut the top hole, that's it), and they're both fitted with Weld-B-Gone valves. The MT has a Sabco FB so I can direct fire it without fear of scorching, and the kettle has a B3 FB used as a hop filter.

2) A close up of the MT coming up to strike temp. Notice the red hot wires. The white ash is the paint that burned off in the first few minutes. You can see the wires deformed slightly, but the main rod (going left-to-right in the pic) is completely solid, and most of the weight of the keg is around the outter perimeter of the shelf. No stability problems whatsoever.

3) Boil Kettle interior, showing the B3 FB. 10" in diameter. It's connected to a copper union so I can remove it.

4) Closeup of gas plumbing. The ball valve is an AGA gas ball valve that is 1/2 FIP by 3/8 Male Flare. 3/8" soft copper connects to the burner. I bought 3 ball valves, not noticing until later that the 3rd one is different. The one shown (HLT), and the one on the MT, both have very smooth operation and surprisingly good flame control. The one on the kettle is hard to get good control on. I'll have to replace it. $9 each for these valves...ouch.

5) Recirculating the mash. Allows even temp ramps and makes for very clear runoff.

6) We be spargin'!

7) This is the runoff going into the kettle. The brass rod is my volume measure. I made one for the kettle and one for the MT. The graduations are 2 gallons each, I interpolate the rest as needed. Close enough.

8) Whirlygig alert! It came with a mash tun I bought on eBay about 2 years ago... I decided it would be fun to use it. I can always ditch it if it becomes a pain.

9) Here we are, 4 minutes into the boil. By keeping the burner on the kettle at a low flame during the lauter, it only took about 10-15 minutes to get a rolling boil after the kettle was full of runoff.

Bob McCouch (
Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2002 - 01:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)










Bill Tobler (
Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2002 - 07:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Oh no!!!


Nice System


Michael (
Posted on Tuesday, November 12, 2002 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Great pics. This explains a lot. Thanks.

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