Post Number: 2
|Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2005 - 04:28 pm: ||
Brewing 14 gal of barley wine with TG of 1.134. Instead of getting 2-row for base i got munich(2-row). any problems? here is the malt bill:
Munich malt 50 lb
2-row 6 lb (need to use it up)
Aromatic 3 lb
crystal 60 3 lb
special B 2 lb
choc malt 1 lb
rauch .75 lb
going to do a second runnig shooting for a tg approx 1.060. does the munich have enough diastatic power to convert? any help!!!!!
Post Number: 2987
|Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2005 - 04:56 pm: ||
You're going to have a problem getting this beer to attenuate. The munich should convert (for that matter, aromatic malt has a small amount of diastatic power), but your beer is going to finish very sweet. This may call for drastic measures such as champagne yeast (I hesitate to recommend it) or even a teaspoon of amylase enzyme powder or (dare I say this!) Beano. Or consider substituting 3-4 lbs. of sugar for an equal amount of the munich.
My own recommendation for a barley wine is 97-98 percent pale malt and 2-3 percent medium crystal. Period.
Post Number: 4579
|Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2005 - 05:39 pm: ||
I use a lot of Munich in my BW, but I've never considered making it the base. I'm not as sure as Bill that you'll have major attenuation problems, but you need to be sure to keep that in mind. I mash all Munich alts at a lower temp to be sure, and you may want to consider that. Bill's idea of adding sugar is a pretty good, too. What kind of Munich is it and waht yeast are you planning on using?
LIfe begins at 60...1.060, that is.
Post Number: 3153
|Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2005 - 09:10 pm: ||
I would tend to agree with Bill on this. If I were to brew a 1.134 OG barleywine, the most amount of Munich I would use would be about 40% (that's what I use in my 1.100 triple bock), and I definitely wouldn't use any crystal in it.
Another suggestion would be to add a big percentage of wheat malt (like 30%) in replacement of the same amount of Munich.
Post Number: 1464
|Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 03:48 am: ||
yes, it can convert, but you may not like the finished result (tastewise). also, you won't get your normal efficiency (so it may not hit 1.134), and I think adding sugar would be key.
Follow the steps for getting normal ale yeast to attenuate in high alcohol brews from an earlier thread.
curious what yer mash tun is that can hold 65+ pounds of grain... I'd go with an american brown with the 2nd runnings...
Post Number: 41
|Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 01:06 pm: ||
I would hop the hell out of that one with all that munich. Over time, she's gonna be sweet.
Post Number: 607
|Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 02:00 pm: ||
I vote against the sugar. I prefer big beers to have big body and I'm not looking for more alcohol, just more taste. But you might want to get a bag of pale ale malt and save the Munich for another day. Tom
Post Number: 729
|Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 07:50 pm: ||
In Bill's "Big Beers" article in BYO a while back, he told of adding sugar or honey to big beers after several days fermentation, so as not to stress the yeast by pitching into ultra high gravity wort (1.120+). If you're going to add 3-4# of sugar, maybe this would be a good way to do it. Make a wort of about 1.115 gravity and pitch the yeast , then add your 4# of sugar a week into fermentation, 1# per day.
Actually, after calculating it, a lb of sugar in 14 gal adds only 3.285 gravity points. That would be 13+ pts for 4#. You could add a couple more lbs of sugar and still have decent body. With all that Munich, etc, it would still have plenty of maltiness, IMHO.
This beer is going to be near 13% abv. Make sure you choose a yeast that can handle it.
(Message edited by DaveW on May 01, 2005)