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Christi Roddy (jstt112.connect-me.net - 216.221.15.112)
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Here's a pic of the mash/lauter tun with copper manifold.

Mash-Lauter TunCopManifold
 

Christi Roddy (jstt112.connect-me.net - 216.221.15.112)
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Notice the "Brass Cross" near the outlet tube? The guy at the local hardware store said he sold 2 of those in the past 22 years. He was amazed that we found a use for it!!

Brewwife
 

davidw (65.196.221.168)
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I foresee high efficiencies in your future, Christi! That's a nice tun. What is the size of the cooler??
 

Christi Roddy (jstt113.connect-me.net - 216.221.15.113)
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 07:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It's a 36 Quart Igloo. I just measured it a few days ago. It's narrower at the bottom (where the manifold is). It's 10" Wide at bottom and 11" wide at top. It is 19" Long at the bottom & 20" Long at top. I've made 2 all-grain batches in it so far (poor efficiencies, though -- operator error).

Hopefully, I'll get better
 

Steve (pr1ae201.eng.ohio-state.edu - 128.146.141.201)
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Christi - what did you use for a bulkhead fitting to go from the inside of the cooler to the outside of the cooler; how did you seal it? Could you share your design? Nice setup! Also, I read that efficiencies can be improved by pointing the slots towards the bottome of the mash tun - but its probably not too significant.
 

Christi Roddy (jstt113.connect-me.net - 216.221.15.113)
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2001 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I posted a couple pictures at this website (it downloads slow):

http://www.geocities.com/brewwife21/Page1.html?1004462674680

I can try to post it here, but I had a lot of trouble posting this picture!

It's a picture of the outlet and valve. I'll have to ask husband about the bulkhead fitting, but the website might help.

We didn't have a washer big enough, so we used a FERMCO (??) rubber thingy that we trimmed. It's just finger tight, but it doesn't leak! (You can see the black homemade FERMCO o-ring outlet against the cooler wall.

The 5 slotted pipes are removeable for easy cleaning.
 

george (1cust103.tnt30.dfw9.da.uu.net - 63.62.192.103)
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I did basically the same thing, not near as neat, and reduced the pipe down to 1/4 inch before it left the cooler. I ran that through a rubber cork, the same size used to plug up a plastic fermentor and pushed the cork through the spigot. I hooked up a 3/8 inch tube onto this and used some old hemostats to control the flow. I just can't remember why I had the hemostats around. Oh well, works for me.

george
 

Christi Roddy (jstt56.connect-me.net - 216.221.15.56)
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Steve,

We basically followed the directions from John Palmer's articles in Brewing Techniques about building a picnic cooler mash/lauter tun. You can also find them at his website:

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html

I'm not too sure about the correct terminology, but here goes. We just went from the "Brass Cross", which is 1/2", used a 3/8" (I think) coupler that goes to a threaded coupler/reducer thingy on the end near the black FERMCO o-ring. The threaded reducer thing is 1/2" straight to 3/4" (I think) threaded;that goes up against the FERMCO o-ring, that goes against the cooler wall.

The outlet is that flanged brass elbow. We put a 1/2" threaded coupler into the brass elbow; put an o-ring over the threaded coupler. That threaded coupler & brass elbow goes through the cooler wall and screws into the manifold where that threaded couler/reducer thing is attached to the manifold's Brass Cross. Hope that made sense. I snapped some photos of it all disassembled and will post them here when I can.

Manifold construction:

5 - 1/2" rigid copper, pipes are each 15 3/8" Long
4 - 1/2" elbows
5 - 1/2" tees
9 - couplers (the little straight pieces that
connect the Tees & Elbows. I think they
are 3/8")

When assembled, the manifold is 8 1/2" Wide and 16 1/2" Long.

\image {C:\MyWebPages\Mash-LauterTunOutletValve.JPG}

Hope that helps.

Brewwife
 

Bob McCouch (alb-66-24-190-120.nycap.rr.com - 66.24.190.120)
Posted on Monday, November 12, 2001 - 05:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I did something very similar with CPVC and an old cooler which I confiscated for brewing duty. My piping is all 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD, and it happens to interface with the built in drain of the cooler.

I made a nifty H-shaped sparge manifold that mounts in the lid of the cooler so it can remain closed during the sparge, and my efficiency jumped from 50% with my old William's tun to 75%!

I think my new Crank-And-Stein mill helped out too.
 

Christi Roddy (jstt56.connect-me.net - 216.221.15.56)
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2001 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP    Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Here's just a shot of the Outlet Valve:

Mash-Lauter Tun Outlet Valve

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