HOMEBREW Digest #1059 Wed 20 January 1993

Digest #1058 Digest #1060

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  GIF / ppm<->mg/l / safe water (Todd M. Williams)
  1) right yeast for Barleywine? 2) Priming with malt extract? (Steven Tollefsrud)
  BEST iodine (idophor?) ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  stuck fermentation? (XLPSJGN)
  Hop question? ("C. Lyons / Raytheon-ADC / Andover, MA")
  Re: Phil's Phalse Bottom (Jay Hersh)
  Teaspoons to milliliters (hjl)
  Re: Natural Keg Carbonation: Haddad Replies  ("Robert Haddad" )
  Windsor, Nottingham Ale yeasts  (W.R.) Crick" <heybc at bnr.ca>
  priming sugar and head retention (Peter Maxwell)
  Brews Paper, Sparging (Jack Schmidling)
  RE: decoction mashing (James Dipalma)
  100% munich malt ("Daniel F McConnell")
  History of "33" in brewing? (Ted Barber)
  Yeast nutrient (fawcett)
  Re: Trivia (Richard Stueven)
  Hops & Hepatitis; Polenta ("Stephen G. Pimentel")
  using steel cut oats in stout (Brian Smithey)
  Query (Mike Leclere)
  Changes at the Archives ("Stephen E. Hansen")
  Questions about mashing, sweet finishes, clean burners, etc. (Chris Cook, NMOS Quality Engineer - (301)386-7807)
  compiling new list (Carlo Fusco)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 05:49:24 CST From: todd at gold.rtsg.mot.com (Todd M. Williams) Subject: GIF / ppm<->mg/l / safe water In HBD#1057 Mike Leclere <msl at orca.rose.hp.com> asks... >SNIP< >>I recall seeing a blurb somewhere about beer logos or labels having been >>scanned into GIF files. I think it was in the HBD, but I'm not sure. >>"Where to find beer logo GIFs." >> >>Mike (msl at hprnd.hp.com) In HBD#1049 "Stephen E. Hansen" <hansen at Sierra.Stanford.EDU> wrote... >Subject: Changes at the Archives > >Over the holidays I spent some time reorganizing the Homebrew Archives >at Sierra.Stanford.EDU. The first change that you will notice is that >almost all files have been placed in subdirectories such as "docs", >"programs", "digests", etc. The most significant change however is >that the issues of the Hombrew Digest are now stored as individual >files rather than shar files or tar files. The Digest index files now >cover a whole year and the index for the current year is updated with >each new issue. New issues will also be placed directly in the >appropriate subdirectory (i.e. digests/1933) as they are received. > >SNIP< > >Those of you who don't follow the rec.crafts.brewing newsgroup might >be interested in the contents of the "images" directory. It currently >has about 70 files containing pictures of various beer labels and >coasters in GIF and JPEG format. > >Stephen Hansen >homebrewer, archivist > >------------------------------------------------------------------------ >Stephen E. Hansen - hansen at sierra.Stanford.EDU | "The church is near, >Electrical Engineering Computer Facility | but the road is icy. >Applied Electronics Laboratory, Room 218 | The bar is far away, >Stanford University, Stanford, CA 94305-4055 | but I will walk carefully." >Phone: +1-415-723-1058 Fax: +1-415-725-7298 | -- Russian Proverb >------------------------------------------------------------------------ - -----AND------------------------- In HBD#1057 ogilvie at ficc.ferranti.com (jim ogilvie) asks.... >Subject: Please help me convert mg/L to ppm >I recently reqested and recevied a report from my water suplier >listing all the junk in my tap water. >SNIP< >can I read that as being pretty close to parts-per-million? >SNIPSNIP< YUP... mg/l and ppm are _exactly_ the same. Also... 1 ppm = 0.058 grains/US gallon or 1 grain/US gallon = 17.1 ppm >Jim (ogilvie at ferranti.com) While we are back to nasties in water, I looked up some MCL (Maximum Contaminant Level) for some of the goobers found in tap water that may apply to us. These numbers are per the 1986 version of the EPA's Safe Drinking Water Act...so they must be "safe"...right ;) They are listed in ppm or mg/l...take your pick. Pollutant MCL - --------- --- Arsenic 0.05 Chloride 250.0 Copper 1.0 Cyanide 0.01 Fluoride 1.4 to 2.4 Iron 0.3 (>0.3 makes water red) Lead 0.05 Manganese 0.05 (>0.1 forms brown-black stain) Mercury 0.002 Nitrate 45.0 Sulfate (SO4) 250.0 (>500 has a laxative effect) The list gets pretty extensive..these were the ones that looked usefull. If you want others, post or send me email... Most people cannot tolerate drinking water that exceeds 300 ppm carbonate, or 1500 ppm chloride, or 2000 ppm sulphate. NOTE: According to my reference "Exposures over safe limits can result in a variety of serious health problems ranging from liver and kidney damage, high cancer risk, nervous system disorders, skin discoloration, hypertension, an a variety of others." Not to scare anyone away from brewing...i just get dangerous with a reference book sometimes...sorry Todd unix systems scapegoat Downers Grove, IL. todd at rtsg.mot.com /--------------------------------------------------------------------------\ / -rwxr-xr-x 1 todd employer 69 Feb 10 1958 OPINIONS \ \ lrwxrwxrwx 1 employer other 9 Jan 01 1970 OPINIONS -> /dev/null / \--------------------------------------------------------------------------/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 11:55:09 +0100 From: steve_T at fleurie.compass.fr (Steven Tollefsrud) Subject: 1) right yeast for Barleywine? 2) Priming with malt extract? I plan to make a Barleywine soon. I have two recipes. One calls for champagne yeast because it will survive above the levels of alcohol which would normally kill off regular lager or ale yeasts. The second recipe calls for lager yeast?! I am afraid of compromising the taste of the "beer" by using champagne yeast (is this a valid concern?). On the other hand, I don't want to have a sickly sweet, half fermented Barleywine because the alcohol level killed the lager yeast. Has anybody out there got any experience with this? Is the recipe calling for lager yeast incorrect? What about fermenting it with the lager yeast and then adding the champagne yeast when the lager yeast dies? (a sort of compromise intending to benefit from the qualities of both) I recently experimented with adding refined table sugar to a lager batch (approximately 70% malt extract to 30% sugar) to see how it would affect the taste. The result was lighter bodied, well carbonated, with an unpleasant cidery aftertaste. Now I want to avoid using sugar at all, even for priming. In order to make a completely sugar free, all malt lager, I would like to try priming with dried malt extract. Should I use the same quantites of malt extract as I would with sugar? One homebrew guide I have says to prime until the specific gravity increases by .005. Won't it be necessary to use more dried malt extract because of the unfermentables? Steve Tollefsrud Valbonne, France e-mail: steve_T at fleurie.compass.fr Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 09:53:33 EST From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: BEST iodine (idophor?) A teaspoon (t) is 5ml. A tablespoon (T) is 15ml. A fluid oz is 2T or 6t or 30ml. (Well, 29.6, actually.) =S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 09:41 CST From: XLPSJGN%LUCCPUA.bitnet at UICVM.UIC.EDU Subject: stuck fermentation? Dear Brewers, I have a quick question. I had such success with Papezian's recipe for Propensity Lager last year that I decided last week to give it another go. It is delicious stuff!! However, I think I might be experiencing my first stuck fermentation. I'm storing the brew in my pantry at about 47F constant (I leave the window cracked open and the door shut to help cool the room). I'm using a blow- off method (again), but this time I'm using liquid yeast. I've used liquid ale yeasts before and have had good beers, but this is my first try with liquid lagers. I used Wyeast liquid lager (pilsen), and all was going gang- busters within 12 hrs of bursting the inside package of the yeast packet It had swelled almost to the point of bursting itself. I made a batch of starter that night, and watched as that too grew vigorously - the smell was (for brewers anyway) heavenly! Then, after brewing the wort according to the recipe, I cooled the brew and pitched the yeast. That was almost two days ago, and as yet, there seems to be no action through the blow off tube...Not even a kreusen yet. However, the beer does seem to be clearing (is it settling too soon?). So my question(s) is/are: is it too soon to tell if the brew is stuck? And, if it is stuck, how can I nudge it along? Could the temperature be responsible for the (apparently) slow start? If so, should I try closing the window, opening the door, and warming the pantry/ lagering closet up a bit?? Thanx, and Cheers! John (ps to Jcusick at luccpua - lost yer number, but saved you a Christmas Ale!! 'Twas the season - 'tiz the last (brew, anyway). Call me or "E" me. Will try you at Micro soon. - jn Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 10:37 EST From: "C. Lyons / Raytheon-ADC / Andover, MA" <LYONS at adc3.adc.ray.com> Subject: Hop question? Some time back I saw a similar question, but never read a reply. When adding boiling hops, does the selection of the type of hop (Kent Goldings, Northern Brewer, Cascade, etc.) make any difference on the final taste profile? I am wondering if I only need to be concerned about getting the number of IBUs correct, or if it is significant to get the correct number of IBUs from a particular hop when attempting to duplicate recipes/styles. I understand that hops added for flavor and aroma do give the beer destinct characteristics, but I am curious if anyone believes that the boiling hops do? Christopher Lyons LYONS at ADC3.ADC.RAY.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1993 11:39:55 EST From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: Re: Phil's Phalse Bottom >When used this way this false bottom works reasonably well and is a cheap way >to quickly convert an Igloo-type cooler to an insulated lauter-tun (though >there are other even cheaper ways of doing this that aren't much more work). I >think that it certainly superior to the grain bag/vegetable steamer combo >commonly used by many homebrewers. Well Steve I have to take exception here. My grain bag and copper coil works wonderfully. In fact I get excvellent flow, never a stuck sparge, and it worked great the first time. While I don't doubt that you have now gotten your Phil's to work well I don't think your claims of "superior"ity are founded.... Maybe we need to have a Mash Off to duke this out :-)... JaH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 12:41 EST From: hjl at gummo.att.com Subject: Teaspoons to milliliters 3t=T 2T=one ounce liquid measure 32 ounces=1 quart 1 quart x 1.06=1 liter 1 liter/1000=milliliters So 1 teaspoon = 4.91 ml. (most sources use 5) Hank Luer Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Jan 93 12:45:20 EDT From: "Robert Haddad" <RHADDAD at bss1.umd.edu> Subject: Re: Natural Keg Carbonation: Haddad Replies On Monday Jan 18, Bruce Mueller wrote: > In digest #1003, Robert Haddad said > 1/2 cup of corn sugar gave him about 25 psi at serving time. Unless > he kegs much differently than I do, there would be very little > headspace in the keg... > ... I'm very satisfied with Robert's empirical evidence. Then, after second thought, Bruce adds: > In a 5 gal. container, assuming all the CO2 dissolves, 1/2 > cup yields 16 psi and 3/4 cup only 24 psi. Well, my fear was > unfounded regarding this higher priming level. However, I bet the > beer would initially gush pretty good with the latter pressure > behind it. > Robert Haddad overestimated his pressure by about 55% way back in > HBD#1003. Well, Bruce, I must say that quoting me in such a scientific exchange did lots for my ego, even to show that I may have goofed, and, I hope, this will be taken into consideration when my tenure review takes place... :) However, I stand by my original reading of about 25lbs of CO2 because something was omitted in the midst of all these numbers, namely that I pumped some 10lbs of CO2 in the keg at priming time to ensure an adequate seal (which, according to your numbers would make sense, 16lbs with 1/2 cup of glucose, plus some 10lbs for good seal) Anyway, on another note, perhaps you or someone else on the line can explain to me why my "Pilsner Urquell" (Cats Meow2, Don McDaniel), which has been at 50 deg for 70 days, still registers a gravity of about 1.020 (down from 1.050). Does this qualify as stuck fermentation? Should I keg as is, with no priming, and hope that fermentation will continue during lagering? What if I want to bottle some (I have 20 gals of the stuff!). Thanks, Robert Haddad Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1993 12:51:00 +0000 From: "Bill (W.R.) Crick" <heybc at bnr.ca> Subject: Windsor, Nottingham Ale yeasts I recently tried both Windsor, and Nottingham Dry Ale yeasts made, or marketted by Leuve in Canada. Nottingham: Pitch from a distance;-) Very fast to create a krausen and needed blowoff tube 6 hours after pitching hydrated yeast. Quick fermentation at 62F Windsor: Not a quick as the Nottingham. FG ENDED UP 1.020!!! NO reason for this other than the yeast? A friend mentioned he had a very different recipe than mine end at1.020 as well using this yeast. - ----->? Has anyone else noticed this about this yeast? Definite bannana smell at racking. Bill Crick -> Brewius, Ergo Sum! Disclaimer: These are my opinion, not those of either BNR, ot NT. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1993 11:41:47 -0800 (PST) From: Peter Maxwell <peterm at aoraki.dtc.hp.com> Subject: priming sugar and head retention I've been having difficulty in getting a good head on my beers. I can generate a reasonable one by pouring "forcefully" but this tends to make the rest of the glass somewhat flat. Is the standard 3/4 cup supposed to be able to generate a good head and also preserve good carbonation in what remains? One 3 gallon batch I made I inadvertently put in 3/4 cup which translates to 1.25 cups for 5 gallons. That batch has PLENTY of head- too much, but it gave me the idea of increasing priming. What are thoughts about increasing priming to around 1 cup? This should generate plenty of CO2 for head forming, but is this heresy? Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 09:50 CST From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Brews Paper, Sparging Date: Thu, 14 Jan 93 10:06:09 EST From: Ulick Stafford <ulick at bernini.helios.nd.edu> >Anyone seen a paper calle The Brews Paper? Yes. It's great fun to read. Sort of like Rush Limbau on home brewing. I loved his interview with Clinton.... What are your plans for personal brewing? I'd like to try something with flowers. Something like dandelion wine? No. Genifer. She's a great little bottle washer >From: korz at iepubj.att.com >At least two brewer's have suggested using very hot boiling or almost boiling water for sparging. Just for the record, and to clarify MY current view, I suggest using whaterver temperature it takes to get the proper (see below) temp in the grain bed. > Could it be that we don't want the grain bed during the sparge to be *AT* 170F, rather we want the *sparge water* to be at 170F and we should let the grain bed (in an insulated tun) settle at whatever temperature it wants? Can someone who has "Brewing and Malting Science" please look this up? Darryl, what sparge temp is used for Pilsner Urquell? >Comments? Excellent food for thought. My guess is that the number is a "momily" based on some particular system that has since been chipped in stone and followed blindly. What is "proper" for a commercial sized batch is not likely to be the same for a ten gallon kettle and certainly not the same for an insulated vessel. We need a number for the actual mash, based on chemestry and how we get there is our own responsiblity. Perhpas we can even put an end to the flame fests everytime someone uses boil and sparge in the same sentence. Just as an aside, I make my sparge water as I use it in a small boiler, fed directly from the tap. It runs out of the boiler, and falls into the lauter tun. The temperature loss in my system is a hidden blessing because it allows me to boil off the chlorine at a higher temp. >From: arthur at chiba.esd.sgi.com (Arthur Evans) > in one of the Zymurgy special issues (I think it's the "gadgets" issue) has instructions for building a "mini-jockey-box." Just a point of caution on "jockey boxes". First of all, they probably are more efficient than a cold plate for continuous use because of the amount of beer in the tubing. However, for the occasional glass, all that beer in the the copper tubing, is beer you probably do not want to drink if it has sat there for a day or more. You will have to dump a glass or two to flush the system and that simply would not do. The cold plate has very thin and much less tubing along with a good aluminum heat sink to increase the efficiency. The one I have only holds an ounce or so of beer and the tubing is stainless. It is much better suited for casual and occasional use. js If I posted this already, file it under too much aluminum.... jjs ~. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 16:54:16 EST From: dipalma at banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma) Subject: RE: decoction mashing Hi All, In HBD #1058, C.V.Copas writes: ...Regarding the problem of extracting unconverted starch during sparging, I am wondering how significant this is in practice. When one considers that the brew will ferment for 1-2 weeks, then condition for at least another 3 weeks, it is worth considering how much starch will actually remain in suspension by the time of serving. My gut feel is that protein and glucan hazes are much more enduring. IMHO, anytime starch makes it into the wort, either through incomplete conversion or extraction during sparging, it's a significant problem. It's not so much the aesthetics of the haze itself, but that beers with a starch haze taste slightly infected. I confess to brewing a couple of beers that had this problem while transitioning to all grain brewing, and the off-flavor got worse over time, not better. I've since tasted other brewer's beers that had this problem, same slightly infected taste. It seems to be a common problem among beginning grain brewers who are trying to learn to mash and sparge properly. In a typical scenario, a brewer will pitch a large quantity of yeast, which multiplies and quickly metabolizes sugars in the wort, preventing any bacteria that is present from getting established and causing flavor problems. Is it possible that the presence of starch in the wort provides a growth medium for bacteria that would otherwise have none? I have no background in microbiology, so I'm not qualified to answer that question definitively. Perhaps others who are would care to comment? Cheers, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Jan 1993 16:39:49 -0500 From: "Daniel F McConnell" <Daniel.F.McConnell at med.umich.edu> Subject: 100% munich malt Subject: Time:4:32 PM OFFICE MEMO 100% munich malt Date:1/19/93 Regarding the 100% munich malt question: A friend of mine (Jeff Renner-used with permission) recently made a 100% munich malt brew for a male-bonding-TV-football-saturday. Ohio State vs Michigan. It was made intentionally low in gravity (but not in flavor) so they could drink it all afternoon. The target beer was a Munich style dark beer. There were no problems in the mashing or conversion, perhaps because this was only 10L malt and plenty of enzymes were available. For 7.5 gal: 10 lb Ireks Munich malt (10L) mash in with 8 qts H2O at 65C to rest at 55C--30 min raise with 3 qts boiling H2O and heating to 67C--85 min remove thinnest third, boil and add back to rest at 75C--10 min sparge to collect 8 gal boil 90 min 1st Hop addition-42 gr (3.8%) Hallertauer pellets-90 min 2nd hop addition-10 gr (3.8%) Hallertauer pellets-20 min 3rd hop addition-10 gr (3.8%) Hallertauer pellets-0 min Ferment with Bavarian Lager yeast at 60F--14 days 2ndary at 33F-- 22 days OG=1.040 TG=1.012 This turned out to be very good, with nice, light malty sweetness, but certainly NOT the *Munich* style as was expected. I'm sorry I missed the party, but at least some was left over in the keg. DanMcC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 15:43:37 PST From: Ted Barber <tbarber at ampex.com> Subject: History of "33" in brewing? Howdy, While designing the label for our latest and gratest Alt Beer my friend and I got into a twist about the requirement for a "33" somewhere on the bottle. Where did the "33" come from and why is it used throughout the world on beer labels. As examples: 33 Export of France, Rolling Rock of the U.S., and Bom d bom of Viet Nam. One suggesting was that they all shared a common recipes. Any brew historians out there with the "real" story of the "33". Thanks, Ted Barber TBARBER at Ampex.Com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 19:25:31 EST From: fawcett%iron at cs.umass.edu Subject: Yeast nutrient This is probably a FAQ, but what is in yeast nutrient? I bought some of it a few months ago for a stuck fermentation. The bottle says FERMAX but doesn't list the ingredient(s). Is this an enzyme? Papazian has a short section on yeast nutrients but doesn't say what they are. -Tom Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1993 17:05:19 -0800 From: Richard Stueven <gak at wrs.com> Subject: Re: Trivia Found this in the 12/15/88 HBD: >Date: Thu, 15 Dec 88 12:17:48 MST >From: hpfcla!hpcea!hplabs!utah-cs!iwtsf!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 312 979 8583) >Full-Name: >Subject: Trivia > >Trivia question: > >Which Beatles song refers to homebrewing? I searched and searched, but never found the answer! Well? have fun gak Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 93 01:00 GMT From: "Stephen G. Pimentel" <0004876702 at mcimail.com> Subject: Hops & Hepatitis; Polenta I just read an article that said that research (they cited the Annals of Internal Medicine) seemed to suggest that various herbs (valerian, asafetida, HOPS, chaparral leaf, gentian, etc.) were implicated in causing hepatitis. They specifically mention that germander seemed to have caused the ill in several people who were taking it for weight loss. Germander is sometimes used to flavor beer. Should we be worried? Is our consumption of whatever it is that may be in hops too low to matter? Or is this just allopathic propaganda? Also someone a while back posted their recipe for polenta. As I can't access the archive, could that person send the recipe to me; I thought I'd snagged it, but I didn't. spimentel at mcimail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 14:54:08 MST From: Brian.Smithey at Central.Sun.COM (Brian Smithey) Subject: using steel cut oats in stout Hi, I'm getting ready to do an oatmeal stout, and I'm planning on using steel cut oats rather than rolled ("Quaker") oats. I was planning on cooking the oats before adding them to the mash, figuring that the cut oats would require gelatinization prior to mashing. However, when looking through "Cat's Meow" for inspiration (and to take another look at Jay Hersh's great steel cut oat experiments), I didn't find any mention of cut oats being cooked, but rather recipes that implied adding the raw cut oats directly to the mash. I'd like to hear any experiences with using steel cut oats in an all-grain brew -- whether you cooked or not, how much you used, how the beer turned out, etc. Thanks, Brian - -- Brian Smithey / Sun Microsystems / Colorado Springs, CO smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 19:22:23 PST From: Mike Leclere <msl at orca.rose.hp.com> Subject: Query Stephen, I received the following kind reply to my query on HBD about the gif files of beer logos, etc... - --------------------------------- Date: Tue, 05 Jan 93 16:37:57 -0800 From: "Stephen E. Hansen" <hansen at Sierra.Stanford.EDU> Subject: Changes at the Archives Over the holidays I spent some time reorganizing the Homebrew Archives at Sierra.Stanford.EDU. The first change that you will notice is that ... Those of you who don't follow the rec.crafts.brewing newsgroup might be interested in the contents of the "images" directory. It currently has about 70 files containing pictures of various beer labels and coasters in GIF and JPEG format. Stephen Hansen homebrewer, archivist - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Unfortunately, I cannot seem to access them via the listserver. Am I doing something wrong? I have tried e-mail of the following line: index /pub/homebrew/images I wanted to get at listing of what was there, but no luck. All I get back is the main index listing. Any suggestions? Mike PS: Sorry to take your time on this. If this is out of order, please let me know. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 93 23:57:32 -0500 From: cook at uars.DNET.NASA.GOV (Chris Cook, NMOS Quality Engineer - (301)386-7807) Subject: Questions about mashing, sweet finishes, clean burners, etc. All right, I have a few quick questions. Or maybe not so quick... 1) In Greg Noonan's book "Brewing Lager Beer," he describes decoction mashes using phrases like "...draw off the thickest third of the mash..." Look, after all the stirring he describes, isn't the mash pretty uniform? Could someone who does this describe what the "thickest" or thinnest part is, and how you draw it off? 2) After tasting Thomas Hardy's Ale, Royal Oak Pale Ale, Samuel Smith's Oatmeal Stout and others, I've fallen in love with these beer's sweet finishes. How do they do it? Is this simply a result of mashing temperatures, or are we talking artifice here? Thinking minds want to know. 3) I have one of those Mount Saint Helens jet propane burners. It roars, jets, flames up high and almost completely contaminates every pot and pot resting place I own every time I brew. Does anyone have any tricks for making the thing burn cleaner so that it makes less soot? I remember the thread a few months ago about containing the flame around the pot, but I'm talking about avoiding the soot factor. I know the signs of an inefficient burn when I see them. 4) Oh, and finally, is everyone being honest with their grain extraction rates? I realize the pressure to talk up your extraction points and all, but are we talking reality here? That's enough for now. I'll add more information as I learn. Chris Cook cook at uars.dnet.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1993 02:20 EST From: Carlo Fusco <G1400023 at NICKEL.LAURENTIAN.CA> Subject: compiling new list Ok, I'm getting tired of hearing the question about where to find a good brew in city X. I have decided to be the coordinator of a list that will finally tell people where to go in which city. I am hoping to produce this list so that it is accessable as a FAQ. [who can tell me where to send the final list for achiving to.I would also like to update my list about brewing online but I don't know where to send this list to, or how to archive it....any ideas?] The way I see it, this list will be a update to the "publist" found in HBD. If you wish to submit entries into this list please send them to me. I would like the entries to be in the following format: Country, City Name of establishment, what is it? [eg. restraunt, brewpub, bar, etc] street address and phone number, if possible. why should I go there?--eg. it has 1 million beers on tap [keep this to 4 lines or less] I think this should take several weeks to compile but I a willing to do the work.[In other words, don't look for the list for at least a month] Remeber, tell your friends...afterall we all have a different idea of how good a place is. Send submissions to G1400023 at nickel.laurentian.ca And a special request to all those Canadians out there, send your entries in so I know where to go when I visit your hometown...Heck, I may even call you to join me. Carlo Fusco g1400023 at nickel.laurentian.ca Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1059, 01/20/93