HOMEBREW Digest #1154 Wed 02 June 1993

Digest #1153 Digest #1155

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Abita Bock (was Re: New Orleans brewpubs?) ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Spruce beer (Darren Aaberge)
  Converting a freezer to a fridge (LPD1002)
  Michigan brewpubs? (Paul Boor)
  Re: BAA humour (Brian Bliss)
  Another data point (Ford Prefect)
  dusty, dry beer (Roy Styan)
  Cloudy hoses/Bleach and SS (korz)
  Wyeast British and London/Rusty hop leaves (korz)
  pH Meter - uses (Josh Grosse)
  EDME Brewcraft Barrel (Joseph Gareri)
  Iowa Beers ("Anthony Johnston")
  DMS/Lambiks/Hoegaarden (korz)
  Octoberfest recipe request (David Hinz)
  Hop Utilization and clarifications (Glenn Tinseth)
  Electronic Brewers in Portl ("Rad Equipment")
  European BUD questions ("Glen Flowers 601-4003, GTC-104")
  Litmus Papers (Phil Hultin)
  Zentners of hops (WESTEMEIER)
  Hey Hayward! (HUGH)
  Belgian malts in Brewing Tech (Nick Zentena)
  AHA Conference in Portland (Rick Garvin)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 09:09:50 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: Abita Bock (was Re: New Orleans brewpubs?) David Adams writes: > One positive recommendation: drink Abita beer while you are in New > Orleans, especially Abita Turbo Dog. And if you get outside of the > city, try to visit the brewery. Good people; wonderful beer. A recent selection from Beers Across America was Abita Bock. This stuff was good! I didn't do a formal evaluation of it at the time, so I'm relying on memory: Style: Helles Bock Appearance: golden, nice rocky head, good clarity. Aroma: malty/sweet. Flavor: Malt predominates, hops bitterness evident, no apparent hops flavor/aroma, sweet, but not overly so. Body: medium. Appropriate. Overall impression: A very nice beer, true to style, and very drinkable. I want more! I'd give it around a 40 (out of 50), I think. Too bad it's not available in Michigan... =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 08:24:05 PDT From: dra at jsc-ws.sharpwa.com (Darren Aaberge) Subject: Spruce beer I have a spruce tree growing in my front yard and I have been wondering about using some of the fresh spring growths in a brew. Does anyone have any experience using spruce in beer? Papazian has a recipe for using it and there are a couple of recipes in the cats meow, but they are all a little vague on how to use it. So far my plan is as follows: 10 lb 2-row pale malt 1/4 lb crystal 40l 1/3 lb chocolate 1.5 oz Cascades (boil for 60 min) 1 pint of spruce clippings American ale yeast My biggest question right now is when to add the spruce. Should I boil it for 60 minutes or should I add it at the end of the boil? Any suggestions or comments would be welcome. I don`t want the spruce to be overpowering, yet I want it to be evident along with the hops. Darren Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 11:12:40 -0600 From: LPD1002%NYSHESCV.bitnet at UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU Subject: Converting a freezer to a fridge When I moved into my new house, a large (as in 20 or 22 Cubic feet) freezer was included. I have no use for it in its present form. Does anyone know of a way to convert it to a fridge. I know there are thermostats you can buy and hook to a fridge for more precise temperature control. But, I don't want to spend the $$, if it is impossible for a freezer to be kept at a temp. above freezing. If it would work, the size would be great. It would probably fit a couple of carboys and a case or two. Email me directly or post if you think there are others who are curiou s. Thanks for any responses. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- | STEVE SEPTER | INTERNET | | BITNET:LPD1002 at NYSHESCV | LPD1002 at NYSHESCV.BITNET at UACS2.ALBANY.EDU | - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 11:03:17 -0600 From: Paul Boor <PBOOR at beach.utmb.edu> Subject: Michigan brewpubs? To Michigan-knowledgable persons: What would be your advise re: brewpubs and micros in the Michigan area, specifically in and around Grand Rapids, Holland, Traverse City (Cherry capitol of the world), Saginaw, and Kalamazoo? Thanks. Pboor, for a returning Michiganer Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 11:07:35 -0500 From: bliss at pixel.convex.com (Brian Bliss) Subject: Re: BAA humour Sandra Cockerham writes: >It figures. All along many of us have complained about the beers we were >getting from Beer Across America. Too light, too many lagers, blah,blah... >This month they sent 2 porters. I found both of them-- Catamount and Boulevard >to be so roasty/burnt that I don't really enjoy them. I, for one, was happy. I received a bottle of boulevard "Bully" porter 2 years ago from a friend, and remembered it as being somewhat watery. When the package came, I was delighted to see blackened friends awaiting me. I tried the bully porter at room temp, and it was anything but watery - smooth & delicious. Upon refrigerating the rest in a too-cold fridge (I like my milk COLD and my keg fridge was full), the somewhat watery (by my taste) mouthfeel returned. IMHO, Bully porter is a much better beer at warm temps. (and exhibits more of a taste change with temp than most beers). The literature that came with it (or was it the bottle?) claims that it is made with roasted barley and chocolate malt; it is more a stout (and a fine one at that) than a porter. bb Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 09:05:55 -0700 From: sag5004 at yak.ca.boeing.com (Ford Prefect) Subject: Another data point Hello, I am busy brewing for my upcoming wedding. And have made a couple observations that some people might be interested in. If not, I apologize in advance (AIA :-). Basic recipe: 19 lb Klages 3 lb Munich 1.5 lb Crystal 1 lb Wheat 2oz Tettenanger, 2oz Centennial (for 60 minutes) 2oz Cascade (5 minutes) *(NOTE: I am not sure about the Centennial but I am sure it is one of those 'C...' types of hops) I have made this four time recently, had an OG from 1.054-1.058. This makes ~11 gallons (one 5 gallon, and one 6 gallon carboy). I do a single step infusion mash, with a mash out up to 175 and hold for 15 minutes. Experiment 1: Make two batches in a row pitching whitbred dry in one, and wyeast 1214? (belgian) in the other. The dry yeast had a bit of a bite that is mellowing out as time goes by. The only thing I can say about the liquid is I like in more than the dry. Experiment 2: This was an accident. Having scotch/irish genes, I decided to strech the next packet of 1214. I put a 2 quart starter in a gallon jug and let er rip for 3 days. Brewed, pitched 2/3 into the carboys, and 1/3 into some settled, cool wort from this batch. (monday) On friday I brew again, and had the fastest start I have ever seen. eg. 1:30 pitch and clean up, and by 4:30 foam city. Everything smells and tastes "normal". I will hopefully, have enough for the wedding (I probably will if I don't drink it all myself first :-). Just a data point, PS What style catagory would this beer fit into? stuart galt boeing computer services sag5004 at yak.boeing.com bellvue washington (206) 865-3764 or home (206) 361-0190 #include <standard/disclaim.h> I don't know what they say, they don't know what I say... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 11:28:13 PDT From: rstya at mda.ca (Roy Styan) Subject: dusty, dry beer I was racking my beer a few weeks ago and found there was an extra two liters or so. Can't waste good beer so I found a two liter bottle and racked into it. During all that mucking about the yeast got quit stirred up and a lot ended up in the bottle. So its experiment time. What does beer taste like after spending a couple of weeks on a couple of cm. of yeast? The quick answer? Yech. This stuff was as dry as a popcorn fart. One sip and all the moisture in your mouth gets sucked down with the beer, leaving nothing but dustball for you to choke on. And bitter? Not the nice hop bitterness we all know and love, but the bitterness one gets from biting into a tree root (y'all chew tree roots down there, don't you?). The main batch, on the other hand, has the nice malty aroma and taste I was looking for (its an english brown), and slides down leaving a pleasant roast aftertaste. Yummy. What I found interesting is that all the elements of the dry, bitter batch were in the main batch, but they had not be accentuated. Rather, they had blended with other elements leaving a well balanced and rounded beer. Woof. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 13:04 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Cloudy hoses/Bleach and SS Steve writes: > While I'm here, I would appreciate some suggestions on >getting my transfer hose (plastic-type) clean and clear. It always >seems to go cloudy. Thanks. You're probably sanitizing it in bleach solution, right? Don't soak it longer than 10 minutes and rinse with "clean" water immediately and it will not turn cloudy. **************************** donald writes: >al is confused regarding sodium hypochlorite, chlorine water and bleach. >bleach is a dilute, about 5%, aqueous solution of sodium hypochlorite. I re-checked my 1991-1992 Cole-Parmer Chemical Reactivity charts and there was no mention of Chlorox (bleach). There was no confusion on my part as to the difference between bleach and sodium hypochlorite. I was quoting the "Sodium Hypochlorite <20%" entry because it was all I had to work with. I've just gotten off the phone with a Cole-Parmer Applications Specialist, who took my order for the 1993-1994 catalog and verified that "Clorox (bleach)" has been added to the 1993-1994 catalog. Indeed, the table now shows no effect between Clorox Bleach and 304 or 316 Stainless Steel. However, as don says himself: >these tables are only guidelines. no details as the conditions of the test >such as length of exposure are given. I've read reports in the HBD of pitting (especially on the welds) in Stainless Steel kegs after repeated use of Bleach solution in the kegs. I trust the cumulative experiences of homebrewers well beyond what I read in a table and I've taken don's report as a single datapoint. Furthermore, I'd like to point out that don's wife is the owner of St. Pat's of Texas (brewing supply) and they do not stock Iodophor rather they stock a chlorine sanitizer. Finally, don has, in a newsletter, questioned the quality of the DeWolf-Cosyns Belgian Malts (another item not stocked by St. Pat's of Texas) while on the other hand, St. Pat's of Texas turns out to be the sole distributor of Breiss malt in the area. I've yet to find the reasoning for don's tirade on yeast a few weeks ago, but I'm sure that his ulterior motives will surface eventually. Please note that this is not a flame. I'm simply posting data that I've collected and am not personally attacking anyone. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 13:31 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Wyeast British and London/Rusty hop leaves JACK writes: >Due in part to things I've read here re; yeast culturing, I decided to try >an experiment with my last batch. A couple weeks back, I took a 3 gal. >keg of SNPA-clone pale ale to a picnic. It ocurred to me that, since the >beer was clean (and tasty) and had yeast cultured from an SNPA 6-pack, >why not just let the dregs sit in the keg under preasure at room temp >until I brewed again (last Saturday) then simply pop the lid, add 1 cup >sterile cool water, swish it around, and dump directly into the primary. >Fermentation started within 12 hrs and smells clean. It's a slow ferment >as are most that I do with SNPA but smells clean. Questions: > - can anyone see potentiial problems or drawbacks with this method Repeated re-use could favor a mutant strain and I recommend not re-using yeast too many generations for this reason. Typical problems with mutant yeast are the loss of the ability to ferment certain sugars and the loss of the ability to re-absorb diacetyl. > - how long might clean yeast be held under preasure this way before it > loses viability. The pressure probably won't make much of a difference. Temperature does. You are better off storing it at around 40F, but letting it warm up to pitching temperature slowly before use. At 40F, I believe that your yeast would have a sufficient percentage of viable yeast for at least a month, but this is dependent on the health of the yeast at pitching time, the level of oxygenation of the wort, etc. > >One other question.... I recently bought WYEAST packs for both British >Ale and London Ale (forget the #'s). Can someone tell me what the difference >in these yeasts are based on their experiences, and which styles of ales >they might match up best with. British is very similar to the old, three-strain Whitbread yeast, whereas the London Ale is very similar to Bass and Co's Whiteshield yeast. I haven't used the British (Wyeast #1098) but I've read that others have reported a spicy, tart flavor profile. Wyeast's London (#1028) is one of my favorites and I use it often. It has a woody profile but otherwise is quite neutral. ********************* Subba writes: > I've noticed some yellow/brown rust like discoloration on the lower >leaves of my hops vines recently and am concerned (not worrying) that it >might be a symptom of a fungal infection. Did the leaves first turn light green between the veins, then yellow, then rust-colored? If so (and maybe also if not), you may have a Magnesium deficiency in your soil. I did and I could stop what you reported by dissolving two tablespoons of Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom salts -- at your local drugstore) in a couple of gallons of water and then splitting this between my four hills. I don't know if this is the best way to add Mg to your soil, but it worked for me. I had to do this about every 2 to 4 weeks to keep the leaves from turning. Any other suggestions for increasing soil Magnesium? I know that hops are one of the few plants that require Mg, but a tablespoon of MgSO4 a month!?! Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 09:35:58 -0400 (EDT) From: jdg at cyberspace.org (Josh Grosse) Subject: pH Meter - uses In today's issue, Mr. S. questioned his purchase of a pH meter, and said he felt he purchased equipment he found to be useless. I have one, and I find it extremely useful for three purposes: 1) Adjusting the pH of the mash. (pH 5.0-5.5) 2) Adjusting the pH of sparge water. (ph 5.6-5.8) 3) Ensuring I don't oversparge. (ph > 5.5) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 11:48:21 -0400 From: jpgareri at acs.bu.edu (Joseph Gareri) Subject: EDME Brewcraft Barrel I recently purchased an EDME Brewcraft Barrel. The first batch I put in was not great. The main problem was it was terribly flat. The barrel is 6 gallons with the CO2 injectors and a release valve that is supposed to keep pressure up to 10 psi. The batch was about 3.5 gallon wheat recipe from the Cat's Meow. The recipe itself was very weak, but that's another problem. I primed it with 1/4 cup corn sugar disolved in 1.5 cups boiled water. There was some gas build up, but the beer never got terribly carbonated, so after 2 weeks, I primed again with the same amount. This didn't seem to work either. Is it because there was too much air space, so the CO2 did not remain in the beer? The directions from EDME say it is not necessary to use one of the CO2 injectors for conditioning. Any thoughts? I am currently in the secondary with Tom Childers "Wheat Berry", and would not want to spoil a batch that seems to be coming along nicely (thanks Tom for your tips). Should I prime with the 3/4 cup corn sugar as Tom recommends for bottling or should I reduce the sugar as is recommended for kegging? I can't figure if this system is more like bottling or kegging. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Joe Gareri Boston, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 11:13:42 CDT From: "Anthony Johnston" <anthony at chemsun.chem.umn.edu> Subject: Iowa Beers Just thought I'd share a pleasant experience I had this weekend. While visiting Cedar Rapids, I dropped down to the Amana Colonies (19 miles south) and was pleasantly surprised to find in addition to several small wineries.... a brewery! Millstream brewery is in Amana (Main Amana) and has 3 beers on tap and in bottles; their Schild Brau was the best IMHO, amber in color and not too hoppy. They also had a very nice wheat beer. Their lager however could stand some improvement, no one in my group really cared much for it. And while I'm on the topic of Iowa, has anyone out there been to the microbrewery in Alden, Iowa? Any idea how far it is from C.R. and if ti is worth the trip. Private email please. Anthony Johnston Chemist, Homebrewer, Beer junkie. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 11:58 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: DMS/Lambiks/Hoegaarden Anthony writes: >I just bottled my first attempt at a California Common or "steam" beer >yesterday and I noticed a definite DMSO odor in the beer (the cooked >corn type odor). Will bottle conditioning help to reduce this over time >or will I just have to get used to it. What causes this (I've heard >that this is generally due to slow wort cooling, but as this was an >extract recipe which normally is cooled rapidly as it is transferred to >the carboy containing cold water, I doubt that the cooling is any >different from my other extract recipes.) DMS (Dimethyl Sulfide) is the chemical that give the cooked-corn aroma. DMSO (Dimethyl Sulfoxide) is oxidized DMS. Some DMSO can break down to DMS during the ferment by the yeast. Most of the DMS that is created during the boil, cooling and ferment gets scrubbed out by the CO2, so you need to have very high levels of SMM (the precusor of DMS), DMS and DMSO to have some spill-over into your finished beer. There are primarily two sources for DMS, bacteria and the malt. The bacteria that generates DMS is called Obesumbacterium Proteus. You may have had wort infected with this bacteria all along, but since this bacteria's activity is mostly during the earliest stages of fermentation, when the pH of the wort is greater than 4.5, a longer lag time on this particular batch may be all that was needed to get the DMS in the final beer above the 30ppb human detection threshold. Another source for DMS is from the SMM that is created when malt is germinated. During the kettle boil, virtually all DMS that is created is boiled-off. If you cover the kettle or if the boil is not a rolling boil (just a simmer) you can retain enough DMS to detect after fermentation. Also, as you mentioned, fast cooling is essential to minimizing DMS in the wort because when you take the kettle off the boil, DMS still continues to be produced until you cool the wort below 140F, but is no longer being boiled-off. ******************* Richard writes: >Are 'lambic' bacteria distinct from 'lactic' bacteria, and if so, how ? Lactic bacteria are only one of many bacteria that contribute to the flavors and aromas of Lambiks. Pediococcus Cerevisiae and Lactobacillus Cerevisiae are two of the lactic acid producers, but certain types of (all?) Pedio also create diacetyl, for example, but only God knows what the other microbiota in Lambik wort do with the diacetyl since I have yet to taste a Lambik with a noticable diacetyl character. In addition to the Pedio and Lacto bacteria, Enteric bacteria play a role in the flavor/aroma of Lambiks. Brettanomyces yeasts, B. Bruxellensis and B. Lambicus give the characteristic "horsey" aromas as well as contribute to the flavor. Many "wild" Saccharomyces and Brettanomyces yeasts combine to produce the intense fruitiness found in many Gueuze Lambiks, so much so, that I've often had to look back at the bottle to make sure I hadn't been served a fruit lambik! So you see, there's a lot more to Lambiks than just a lactic sourness. Note that recent bottles of Timmerman's Framboise that I've tasted have had a more pronounced Brett (horsey) character than I recall. Perhaps this is simply a batch-to-batch variation (lambiks, more so than any other beers, vary quite a bit from batch-to-batch and even bottle-to-bottle!) or perhaps Timmerman's is trying to blend more towards a traditional flavor (I hope so). ******************* Tom writes: >In HBD 1149, Steve Lovett asks about reproducing Hoegaarden Grand Cru with >wheat malt. A few months ago, I posted a barley malt extract wit beer >recipe, and promised to try the same with wheat malt. Well, the first >wheat malt batch finished a couple of weeks ago, and my friends and I are Actually, Hoegaarden White is made with (unmalted) wheat, but the Grand Cru Is a sort of "all-barley" version, with no wheat added. I conjecture that the Celis are made similarly, but I'm certain that they are are much fresher and better versions than those now made by Interbrau in Belgium. ******************* Mark writes: >ago. Anyway, after a few minutes of begging that I should be connected to a >materials engineer (not a sales "engineer") I got some helpful folks in one >of their labs. Turns out the guy who knows the most about polypro is also a >homebrewer! Well it was certainly a relief not to have to spend 1/2 hour >explaining what a hop back, wort etc. were! Bottom line: The chart is >wrong as regards to polypro. Beer won't hurt it or react with it (neither >will wort). This guy said that polypro's barrier properties weren't that >good and thought the chart might have been inferring that you wouldn't want >to store carbonated beer in it for long periods because it would go flat. >However, carbonated water is "OK" for polypro on the chart. We couldn't >figure it out. I expect that a materials engineer at Phillips 66 should have been able to figure out that the reason that Polypropylene is not acceptable for long -term storage of beer is not only because of CO2 permiability, but O2 permiability! According to the Cole-Palmer catalog, the 02 permiability is 25 x 10^-10 (cc-mm)/(sec-cm2-cmHg), which is 2.5 time higher than HDPE (high-density polyethylene) which is widely known to be too oxygen-permiable for long-term beer (or hop, for that matter) storage. Long-term storage in oxygen-permiable plastics will, of course, oxidize your beer (or hops). By the way, why does every post by Mark sound like an ad for his business? I, for example, have yet to mention that my store/mailorder house, Sheaf & Vine Brewing Supply, sells hops stored in a special, proprietary plastic that is food-grade, yet is an oxygen-barrier and that the pouches are CO2-purged before vacuum sealing... but you don't see *me* running shameless ads in the allegedly non-commercial HBD ;^). Al. Sheaf & Vine Brewing Supply Countryside, Illinois 708-430-HOPS Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 16:25:40 CDT From: hinz at memphis.med.ge.com (David Hinz) Subject: Octoberfest recipe request Greetings. I had several (OK, many) bottles of Hacker-Pschorr Octoberfest this weekend, and I like it a lot. Now, it seems to me that it's a very malty, lightly- hopped lager, possibly something like a Maibock. I dunno, I'm asking. Anyway, my point is this....how can I make something like that? I checked the Cat's Meow, and didn't see anything listed specifically as an Octoberfest. Anyone have a good recipe for this type of thing, or at least pointers on what types of malts & hops to try? All-grain recipe would be preferred, but I'll "takes what I gets". Thanks, Dave Hinz ObBeerComment: The Strong Scottish Ale from Papazian's "style guide" in TNCJOHB is fantastic. Only 3 weeks in the bottle, and it's almost GONE. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 14:29:35 PDT From: tinsethg at ucs.orst.edu (Glenn Tinseth) Subject: Hop Utilization and clarifications In a recent Digest, Mark Garetz petitioned the readers for info regarding Jackie Rager's alpha acid (AA) utilization numbers in his article in the Zymurgy Hop Special Issue. I am currently in the middle of a fairly good sized research project into this exact subject. As George Fix mentioned in a recent posting, I am fortunate enough to be able to work in Gail Nickerson's USDA hop lab where I have the glorious title "Official Volunteer Hop Grinder and Sample Prepper" in exchange for the use of their equipment. In addition to running alpha and beta analyses on my hops, I am studying AA utilization vs boil time and AA utilization vs wort gravity. Both my early findings and an extensive literature review indicate that there are problems with Rager's numbers. Typical util vs boil time curves look nothing like Rager's numbers and max. util % numbers range all over the place in the literature, from 10-50% in the finished beer (Rager gives a middle of the road 30% for a 60 min boil). It is still too early for me to give some definitive answer to the util question. I know how unsatisfying it is to hear that something is wrong without hearing the right answer but I am afraid that we (myself included) are stuck with Rager's numbers for a while longer, at least until I get a few more test batches in bottles and run through the spectrophotometer. Is this "Vapor-data"? Also, for everyone I promised a catalog to, they come from the printers tomorrow, and will be in the mail the same day! Sorry for the delay but the response to my previous posting surprised me (a good surprise:) Glenn Return to table of contents
Date: 1 Jun 1993 16:02:03 U From: "Rad Equipment" <rad_equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.edu> Subject: Electronic Brewers in Portl Subject: Electronic Brewers in Portland Time:3:56 PM Date:6/1/93 As Jeff Frane mentioned I supplied stickers for our band of techies so we could be easily spotted. I am willing to do the same this year and have had my sign-maked friend begin work on the design. I need a rough head count so I know how many to cut. Send me E-mail indicating your intention to attend. RW... Russ Wigglesworth (INTERNET: Rad_Equipment at radmac1.ucsf.edu - CI$: 72300,61) UCSF Dept. of Radiology, San Francisco, CA (415) 476-3668 / 474-8126 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 16:28 EST From: "Glen Flowers 601-4003, GTC-104" <GFLOWERS at LANDO.HNS.COM> Subject: European BUD questions In HBD #1152, Kurt Swanson writes: >In this country, Sweden, one can get US Bud (in all 3 >strength classes - the least of which allowing it to be advertised on >tv), Schiltz, Michelob, Sam Adams (arggh!), Anchor Steam, and various >temporary products. I'm puzzled by two questions: 1) Why the (arggh!) after "Sam Adams"? Wouldn't you consider Sam's a better American brew than the first two brands on the list, (neither of which rated an "arrgh!"), and easily better than BUD? 2) What is a temporary product? Just wondering, Glen Flowers Technical Training Hughes Network Systems GFLOWERS at LANDO.HNS.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 21:14 EDT From: Phil Hultin <HULTINP at QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA> Subject: Litmus Papers Actually, nowadays just about nobody uses "litmus" papers any more. The old fashioned "litmus" came in two types, red and blue, and you had to use the correct one for measuring acid or basic solutions. The modern equivalent is referred to by various names, but in our lab we just call them "pH papers". If you can't find the right stuff in your catalog, look under "test strips" or "test papers" or "pH" rather than "litmus". Modern test strips are much better than "litmus". The ones I like best (NOT the cheapest BTW) are known by the trade name ColorpHast, and come as single use strips of plastic with patches of colored indicator at the business end. Just thought all the pH-concerned out there might like to know... P. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1993 21:34:12 -0400 (EDT) From: WESTEMEIER at delphi.com Subject: Zentners of hops To clear up any lingering confusion, I can't resist putting in my $0.02 here. Geoff's memory was exactly right. The zentner (note lower case) is the standard unit of measurement used in commercial hop dealings in Europe. The zentner is equal to 50 kilograms. It is abbreviated zr and is (I think) beginning to be used outside Europe as well. Wouldn't it be nice to have a unit of measurement that worked like IBUs or BUs, so that we could speak of "X hooples of Saaz" produced and mean so many kilos at such a percent of alpha acid? - -- Ed Westemeier -- Cincinnati, Ohio -- westemeier at delphi.com -- Return to table of contents
Date: 01 Jun 1993 21:45:19 -0500 (CDT) From: HUGH at vaxa.cis.uwosh.edu Subject: Hey Hayward! Date sent: 1-JUN-1993 21:42:21 Looking for a good micro-brew pub in Hayward, California. Any suggestions? Bitnet - Hugh at oshkoshw Internet - Hugh at vaxa.cis.uwosh.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 22:56:15 -0400 From: Nick Zentena <zen%hophead at canrem.com> Subject: Belgian malts in Brewing Tech Hi, I got my copy of Brewing Techniques this week and I've got some questions. The article on Belgian malts by Prof. Fix stated that the test mashes were conducted using distilled water and 30grs of calicum chloride. Is this enough in the way of minerals? Would this very soft water profile cause the results to differ from real world mashes? I assume that the distilled water was used to give some sort of a standard. Also the article gives the following: Pils malt -linter 105 able to convert 15-20% adjuncts Pale ale malt- linter 60 able to convert 10-15% adjuncts In comparison I think Canadian 2row is 120-130linter and capable of converting 50+% adjuncts. Are the adjuncts numbers given for the Pils just conservative? Would it be able to convert a high adjunct mash like a normal p-lambic? Finally is Brewing Techniques going to be review books other then those available from the AHA? Thanks Nick - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles! zen%hophead at canrem.com - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 22:47:32 EDT From: rgarvin at btg.com (Rick Garvin) Subject: AHA Conference in Portland Jeff Frane writes: > Someone (Rick?) said that he was buying a partial membership, leaving > out the social stuff and paying for speakers. A suggestion: You've got > it backwards! From my experience at last year's conference, the > "lectures" are the least interesting part -- hanging out, eating and > drinking with other homebrewers, _that's_ the real fun...and the most > educational. > > Speeches? We don't need no stinkin' speeches. I agree, the partial registration includes all social events and some of the lectures. I have been to a few of these conventions and I have trouble sitting in a wonderful place like Portland in a hotel for 8 hours a day. Plus, getting up early after Brew Pub hopping. Cheers, Rick Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1154, 06/02/93