FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  more on FaceMail... (Paul dArmond)
  re: yeast questions (Jim Sims)
  AHA results (CHUCKM)
  Ice Beer--now there's a concept! (Kieran O'Connor)
  Re: *EXTRA* EARWAX KILLS BEER FOAM (Kevin L. McBride)
  Recipe for Dunkelweizen needed ("Andy Phillips, Long Ashton, Bristol, UK")
  Home Brewery Info (Tom Tomazin)
  repeat question: Spice Additions (Chris Pencis)
  Minneapolis Brewpubs ("Tom Stolfi")
  hops,1007,overnight mash (Russ Gelinas)
  Multiple Styles from single mash/boil (Kelly Jones)
  signoff (471-7875)" <GARTHH%NAITVM.NAIT.AB.CA at VM.UCS.UALBERTA.CA>
  rebottling (Robert Chizmadia)
  Critters (Jack Schmidling)
  1007 Wyeast (Lee=A.=Menegoni)
  Alcohols (WEIX)
  Basic algebra (lyons)
  Decoction a must?/Mashing techniques (korz)
  Substitutions and Bulk Malt Extract  (geotex)
  starters/Widmer/HopPicking/Flora&Fauna/SNPAyeast/Wyeast1007/HopUtiliz (korz)
  RE: Ethan's Earwax (John Mare)
  Re: Counterflow Questions (John Hartman)
  Hot yeast (LIFE'S TOO SHORT TO DRINK CHEAP BEER)
  Beer (the magazine) (Jimmy Patrick)
  RE: Yeast = animals? (John Mare)
  Mead ("/R=GTC/R=A1/U=BRANNAGJB/O=College Marketing/TN=250-8384/FFN=Gretchen Brannaman/")
  Chiles (thomas ciccateri)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1993 21:34:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu>
Subject: more on FaceMail...

I've had a request via private e-mail to be more forthcoming about the
facemail project, so here goes...

There are several software packages available that produce low-quality,
motion images on your, well maybe not your, but many computer screens. 
They go by a number of names, of which Quick Time and Video for Windows
are the most advertised.  As usual with multimedia, the advertising is
overblown and deceptive.... (I will skip my usual rant on the damage done
by advertising hype in my field)

None of these packages do video.  What happens is that the incoming video
stream is sampled and converted into a bitmap for every so many frames. 
Very few of the systems offer 30 frame per second (video speed) display
rates.  Those that offer sound with the video interleave digitized audio
with the picture bitmaps at substancial reductions in frame rate.

The net result is much more like the cartoon flip books than true motion
video.  Some systems use special hardware to get the frame rate up, but
this is an expensive compromise.

Most of the animated images occupy only a small portion of the screen, a
postage stamp....

So don't get your hopes up too much...

The good news:  I should be able to prepare complete runtime packages for
DOS, this will require a 33Mhz 386DX with a standard vanilla VGA for
acceptable performance.  These systems should be widely available.  I will
also produce a Quick Time version for the user-interface impaired, uh I
mean the rest of them, uh, you know, the fruit machine people.... 
Quicktime viewers are reasonably available among the Mac tribes.  The
Quick Time version will be later in arriving, since I have to steal
machine time at another site to convert the video.  Any Quick Time users
out there (Spigot owners?) who want to volunteer to speed up this process
will be very welcome.

So, I should be able to get stand alone programs for DOS and Mac owners
should be able to lay hands on the appropriate drivers.

These motion video (sic) files are pretty big, even when heavily
compressed.  Expect to spend a while downloading them.  Don't even
consider sending them UUencoded.... 

As I slowly work my way into this project, I'll be posting progress
reports.  The next step will be to do a rough edit on the videotape.  At
that time I'll report how things are looking and approximate runtimes. 
With any luck, this will be a Xmas present.  While I was in Portland, I
had a huge backlog of high-priority stuff pile up on me....

patience,

Paul.


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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 08:06:05 EDT
From: sims at pdesds1.scra.org (Jim Sims)
Subject: re: yeast questions

 Thanks for the all the yeast question replies. I had a coupla other
folks reply directly via email yesterday, so now i've got another question:

 Is the yeast in the Wyeast packet in the inner (break to open) pouch,
or the outer pouch. I got one reply saying it was in the inner packet,
other replies seem to indicate otherwise.

 btw, the beer was gurgling away when I got home yesterday and both
batches have a healthy amount of krausen started. I re-hydrated and
pitched a packet of EDME dried yeast into one of em just in case, and
to see if I could taste the difference in the final beers (assuming
they both survive).

thanks,
jim

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Date: 04 Aug 93 07:12:24 EDT
From: CHUCKM at PBN73.CV.COM
Subject: AHA results

It seems that Steve and Tina Daniel always take a good share of the AHA
brewing awards.   Too bad they are not plugged into this digest so that
we may pick their brains.  Does anyone out there know these two..they
are obviously doing something very right.   ANd has anyone sampled any of their
brews?

Prost
chuckm at pbn73.cv.com

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1993 08:41:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kieran O'Connor <koconnor at mailbox.syr.edu>
Subject: Ice Beer--now there's a concept!

NY Times, Page D3, August 3, 1993:
 "Our northern neighbor is putting ice in our beer."
 
Banking on strong performance of a new product called "ice beer" in
Canada, Molson Breweries palns to introduce Molson Ice next week on a
trial basis in Atlanta and Michigan.

Basically they go on to say that they almost freeze the beer--and then
remove the ice crystals. It supposedly leads to a smoother and (this is
true) more alcoholic brew. However, "It is being marketed for its
smoothness and distinctive, full flavored taste. The fact it has higher
alcohol is a fact not a market element" (yeah right!)

Anyway, an interesting "New Brew From Molson," too bad the Germans already
invented it.

Kieran O'Connor

E-Mail Address: koconnor at lor.syr.edu
Syracuse, N.Y. USA




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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 8:45:30 EDT
From: klm at mscg.com (Kevin L. McBride)
Subject: Re: *EXTRA* EARWAX KILLS BEER FOAM

"Chris" writes some nonsense:

> I was with my friend ethan last night, enjoying some homebrew.  well,
> he poured some into his glass with a marvelous head (maybe even too
> much head say about 4", and yes, he poured it correctly, of course, it
> was an old mayonaise jar, but that's beside the point).  he then
> swirled his finger in his ear and said, "watch this."  whilest
> swirling yonder finger in the beer foam, he said, "earwax kills beer
> foam," and it did, quite remarkably too...

and then asks us to reply to an account at UNH that is not owned by
someone named "Chris" (I fingered the account 'cause I had this gut
feeling that something just wasn't right.)

Can you say FORGERY boys and girls?  I thought you could.

Should you reply to this utter tripe, thus filling the innocent
victim's mailbox?  NO.

Just a friendly reminder, folks, that there are some people out here
in net.land who won't think twice about USING you to play their
practical jokes or fight their petty flame wars.  If it looks like a
joke, it probably is.  Don't waste your time.

- -- 
Kevin

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 14:11 BST
From: "Andy Phillips, Long Ashton, Bristol, UK" <phillipsa at afrc.ac.uk>
Subject: Recipe for Dunkelweizen needed

I'd like to have a go a making a dunkelweizen soon. I have
a few questions about recipe formulation:
1. What grain should I use, and how much, to get the colour
   right? I can get hold of chocolate, black patent and crystal malt,
   and roast barley. I could probably roast my own malt to give 
   an amber malt. I can't buy Cara or (mainland) European speciality
   grains. My best guess is crystal plus some chocolate.
2. Hops? Hallertauer?
3. Yeast? I know of no source of liquid cultures of wheat beer yeasts
   in the UK. I can buy several HefeWeizens, which of these do you
   think would make the best starter: Thurn und Taxis HefeWeizen
   or Roggen, or Erdinger DunkelWeizen? The last of these seems
   to throw a good sediment, so this is my first choice. Are all
   HefeWeizens bottle conditioned, or are some pasteurized?
4. Temperature? Unfortunately, I have no control over this,
   so I may have to wait for autumn before I start. The temperature
   in Bristol today is a sizzling 67F.

Thanks for any help,
Andy Phillips

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 08:51:13 CDT
From: tomt at nano.sps.mot.com (Tom Tomazin)
Subject: Home Brewery Info

Hello.

I am very interested in building a complete home brewery that would make
~10 gallon batches.  I've seen the some adds for complete set-ups for
$800.00 and up.  I'm sure I can do it myself for a lot less.
Since I know someone out there has built one themselves, I'm hoping
that someone can share advice, cost approximations, or even schematics
(in any form, I have access to all platforms).

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Tom
tomt at nano.sps.mot.com

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 9:05:17 CDT
From: chips at coleslaw.me.utexas.edu (Chris Pencis)
Subject: repeat question: Spice Additions

Hey folks - 
	Last week I posted a question regarding the pros and cons of
different methods of spice addition to a spiced ale (in boil, in
fermenter, as a tea, alcohol derivatives etc) - note: I have
investigated the Cat_s Meow and back HBD issues (back to 950)and have
found no real good "do this...dont do that" kind of information.  I have
also received several requests for a repost/forwarding of this
information.  So (since maybe a good deal of the readership was in
Portland), can anyone still answer this question?  TIA
	In addition I am looking for extract spiced ale recipes w/ o.g.s
at 1040-1060.  I have received one so far that looks promising....thanks
again 				good luck and good beer
						Chris

ps. thanks for all the responses to my clean glass question last week.


======================================================================
|Chris Pencis 				chips at coleslaw.me.utexas.edu |
|University of Texas at Austin		Robotics Research Group	     |
======================================================================

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Date: 04 Aug 1993 08:59:08 GMT
From: "Tom Stolfi" <WAUTS at cwemail.ceco.com>
Subject: Minneapolis Brewpubs

From: Tom Stolfi                                   WAUTS    - CWE1IIN
To: Open-Addressing Application for Internet Acc INLINE   - CWEMAIL
Subject: Minneapolis Brewpubs

I will be stopping overnight in Minneapolis on my way to Canada for
a well deserved vacation :-).  Could someone recommend a clean cheap place
to stay and give me the lowdown on the Brewpubs in the area.  Thanks.

Tom Stolfi
wauts at cwemail.ceco.com











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Date:    Wed, 4 Aug 1993 10:15:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas)
Subject: hops,1007,overnight mash

  FYI, male hops flowers are easily distinguished from the female
cones we all know and love.  Whereas mature female flowers are, well,
cones, like pine-cones, male flowers are quite different.  The
male flowers will consist of a number of short stalks, maybe 6 or
so, about 1/2" to 1" long, with a ball (hopefully) at the end of each,
which contains the pollen.  I say hopefully a ball, because if it's 
not a ball, it's an small open flower, and the pollen has been (is
being) released.

  Wyeast 1007 (German ale) has produced a very vigorous fermentation 
every time I have used it.  Probably a good yeast to use in the summer.  
Surprisingly, it can make a very fine Porter.

  Never mashed overnight, but I have mashed and sparged, and then
boiled the next day.  I know it sounds dangerous, but I've seen
no indication of souring.  My mash/sparge technique is such that
exposure of the wort to spoiling organisms is minimized, but then
again, I may have just been lucky.  It is a very convenient way
to brew. I don't think I'd recommend it during the summer though, 
or in a less than squeaky clean environment.

Russ Gelinas
esp/opal
unh

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 08:33:14 -0600
From: Kelly Jones <k-jones at ee.utah.edu>
Subject: Multiple Styles from single mash/boil


I have just recently begun doing 10gal batches, and am looking for
ways to get two separate styles from a single mash/boil.  For
example, my last batch was a 50% wheat mash. After boiling and
cooling, I separated the wort into two 5gal fermenters. Into one, I
pitched Wyeast 3056 (a Weizen strain).  Into the other, I pitched
Wyeast 1007, with which I have had good luck making wheat beers. In a
few days, I will add some fresh fruit to this batch (perhaps
blackberries or peaches), thus I will end up with two separate batches
from a single mash/boil.

Does anyone have suggestions for other mixed-batch recipes, from a
single mash/sparge/boil?
For example, I had considered making both a Helle- and Dunkel-Weizen
by doing a separate, very small steep of some chocolate malt, boiling
the resulting liquor, and adding this to one of the fermenters. Would
this have worked out? Any other suggestions?

E-mail is fine; I'll post any interesting suggestions.

Kelly   <k-jones at ee.utah.edu>

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Date:         Wed, 4 Aug 93 08:31:32 MDT
From: "Garth Hidson (471-7875)" <GARTHH%NAITVM.NAIT.AB.CA at VM.UCS.UALBERTA.CA>
Subject:      signoff

signoff


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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 10:35:58 EDT
From: chiz at atmel.com (Robert Chizmadia)
Subject: rebottling

Hi,
   As a favor for my upcoming wedding, I decided to brew a batch, print up a
label and give it out.  My usual container for bottling is a two liter glass
container ( carry-out from my local brew pub ).  My problem is I only 
bottled 55 12-oz'ers for the wedding, put the rest in 2-liters ( hey, I like to
drink my beer ), and last night my fiancee informed me that I would need 60
bottles because she miscounted.  The beer is an ESB from extract, OG of 1.054
and FG of 1.012, using a Munton and Fison dry yeast.  It was bottled 3 days 
ago.
   My question is is it possible to rebottle from the 2-liters to the 12-oz 
bottles?  I assuming I will need to re-prime the smaller bottles, and that 
enough yeast will still be present to carbonate the beer.  But what effect
will the dissolved CO2 have ?  should I allow the beer to go flat first?

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 09:54 CDT
From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Critters

 
 >From: korz at iepubj.att.com 
 <Subject: Flora & Fauna
 
 >I've read that yeast are technically a "slime mold" and that they are
 animals, which would make them fauna rather than flora.  I would then
 assume that non-slime molds would then also be fauna.  However, what
 are bacteria, flora or fauna?  My guess would be, again, fauna.  I have
 seen "microflora" and I think I've used the word myself, but I'm playing
 with this topic just for fun anyway (so don't take it too seriously).
 
 And I am responding because I am bored and can't find anything else in this 
 issue to argue with.
 
 Many modern taxonomists prefer to create an entirely new kingdom for all 
 fungi and hence they are neither flora nor fauna.
 
 The general concesus however, is to place fungi in the Plant Kingdom and they 
 therefore become flora.  Although some slime mold plasmodium do migrate 
 impresively over a substrate, this does not change their taxonomic position 
 as flora nor are they any more closly related to yeast than a mushroom.
 
 Yeasts are somewhat unique in that they are single celled organisms with 
 little or no propensity to form colonies.  This is also true of most bacteria 
 but they are miles away from each other taxonomically.  Yeast is as 
 evolutionarily removed from bacteria as far as humans are from yeast.
 The fundamental difference between bacteria and all the rest of us is that 
 they lack a nucleus and all the genetic implications involved it that.
 
 Bacteria are exceedingly primitive plants in current thinking although some 
 would again put them in a kingdom of their own.
 
 My reference to fauna invading the mash was in terms of flies or other animal 
 types that could get it if not covered or small enough to get in under the 
 cover.
 
 js
 
 

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Date: Wed,  4 Aug 93 11:45:17 EDT
From: Lee=A.=Menegoni at nectech.com
Subject: 1007 Wyeast

I too had a very vigorous fermentation when I used this yeast.  It was
my 3rd or 4th batch and I thought I did something wrong since the fermentation
spewed out of the top of the airlock.  The beer came out fine.

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1993 12:00:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: WEIX at swmed.edu
Subject: Alcohols

Hi all,
IHTNPB (I Hate To Nit Pick But):
Methanol=wood alcohol=denatured alcohol, but NOT rubbing alcohol.
Rubbing alcohol is isopropanol(or 2-propanol).

Another thing,
Korz writes us saying:
>Jack writes:
>>There is no doubt a multicultural flora ready to do a number on the mash 
but

>I've read that yeast are technically a "slime mold" and that they are
>animals, which would make them fauna rather than flora.  I would then
>assume that non-slime molds would then also be fauna.  However, what
>are bacteria, flora or fauna?  My guess would be, again, fauna.  I have
>seen "microflora" and I think I've used the word myself, but I'm playing
>with this topic just for fun anyway (so don't take it too seriously).
>Al.

To which I say (not that I am taking this seriously), IHTNPB, yeast?, slime 
molds? I think not. Yeast are unicellular fungi, and although some yeast 
can grow into multinucleate organisms complete with psuedohyphae and other 
technical words, they cannot move, aggregate, grow a stalk, or do any of the 
other nifty things that slime molds can do.  Slime molds, however, make bad 
beer, so I would call it even. Also, to relegate fungi to the animal 
(fauna) kingdom or to the plant (flora) kingdom seems to me to be 
unnecessarily restrictive.  I believe that the correct scientific term for 
anything that is smaller than a mouse and that does not nurse its young is the 
word "bug" (from the greek, I believe).

                                       at  at  at  at 
                                     (o  o)
         |----------------------ooO---(__)---Ooo----------------------|
         |                                                            |
         | Patrick Weix                        weix at swmed.edu         |
         | UT Southwestern Medical Center      tel: (214) 648-5050    |
         | 5323 Harry Hines Blvd               fax: (214) 648-5453    |
         | Dallas, TX 75235                                           |
         |------------------------------------------------------------|
                                    ||    ||
                                  (__)    (__)
Have fun y'all!


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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 14:07:42 EDT
From: lyons%adc2 at swlvx2.msd.ray.com
Subject: Basic algebra

>Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1993 16:31:05 -0700
>From: reeves at lanl.gov (Geoff Reeves)
>Subject: Algebra and extraction rate
>
>I got quite a bit of mail regarding my assertion that extraction should
>properly be expressed as pt-gal/lb. Basically most people said that I had
>forgotten my algebra and that pt-gal/lb == pt/lb/gal. Their arguement
>depends on where you mentally draw the parentheses. pt-gal/lb =
>pt/(lb/gal). However this is not the common way of expressing things. Think
>of gravity. g = 32 feet per second per second.  32 ft/s/s is not the same

Do you mean the acceleration of gravity ... 32 ft/(sec**2) ???

>as 32 ft similarly energy flux is expressed as
>particles/second/steradian/keV or similar units. Dimensional analysis
>assumes that a/b/c = a/(b*c). Similarly computer codes that evaluate a/b/c
>will evaluate a/b and then divide by c.

Is this a joke?  I can't stop laughing!  Actually we shouldn't be laughing
about the mathematically ignorant.  In case that this is not a joke, please
review your concepts of dimensional analysis or seek help.

>Now this may seem nit-picky but it pisses me off when people tell me that I
>don't know algebra. I didn't get one of those mail-order physics PhDs.

Did you get a high school diploma?

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 12:32 CDT
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: Decoction a must?/Mashing techniques

Jim (as well as one other poster) writes:
>Decoction is a must for all grain weizens, and is very beneficial for
>many styles of lagers, pils and bocks in particular.  It is not worth
>the extra effort for ales, esp if you are using domestic 2 row pale or

Well, despite the fact that I haven't done an all-grain Weizen, I would
like to propose that perhaps it's a good protein rest that is essential
for a brew with a large percentage of wheat and not necessarily a 
decoction mash that's essential.  Indeed, the decoctions will help
convert the starches in wheat, especially raw wheat, but I've tasted
quite a few very good weizens made with temperature-controlled (step)
mashes.

On a semi-related topic: mashing technique nomenclature.  There's a lot
of conflicting information in the books and magazines regarding the
following point.  The point is that:

   "step-infusion mashes == temperature-controlled mashes."

What I mean here by temperature-controlled, is stovetop mashing, where
the burners are used to raise the mash from protein rest to saccharification
rest to mashout.  *I believe* that step-infusion mashing is NOT the same,
rather it is a method whereby hot water is *infused* into the mash to raise
its temperature.  Do I have this nomenclature right?  I've read conflicting
views on this.

This would imply that there are basically four methods of mashing (the last
having multiple variations):

1. single-infusion   --  add a measured amount of water at a calculated
temperature to bring a measured amount of grain to saccharification
temperature.  Mashout is often not done and the hot sparge water is what
effectively ends the conversion.

2. step-infusion  --  add a measured amount of water at a calculated temp
to bring a measured amount of grain to protein rest temperature.  Add
another infusion of hot water to bring the mash to saccharification temp.
Finally, add boiling water to get the mash to mashout temp.

3. temperature-controlled  --  dough-in (cool water) or mash-in (protein
rest temperature) with the full mash volume of water.  Add direct heat to
raise the temperature to other rests.

4. decoction  --  dough-in or mash-in with the full mash volume and then
remove parts of the mash to a kettle in which this "mash fraction," which
is called a decoction, is heated to boiling and then returned to the rest
of the mash to raise it's temperature.  There are several variations to
this (double (two decoctions), triple (three decoctions), etc.) in which
some of the decoctions are replaced by infusions or the entire mash is
moved to a kettle and then direct heat is used in place of one or more
decoctions.  It is interesting to mention that decoction mashing can
be done WITHOUT A THERMOMETER, given enough experience, which I've read
is the reason that it was invented (they did not HAVE thermometers at the
time).

Al.

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 15:54:55 -0400
From: <geotex at engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Substitutions and Bulk Malt Extract 


Question #1)
I am planning to make a porter whost recipe calls for 5# of dark
malt extract.

I have 3.3# of dark and 1.7# of light.  I have heard that their is
a way I can use the light in place of dark if I add roasted barley,
black patent, or chocolate malt.  Is this wise?  Which should I 
use if it is?  How much?  On that note, is there any rule o' thumb
for substitutions like this?

Question #2)
I was at the local health food store (People's Food Coop, Ann Arbor)
yesterday and I noticed that they had bulk "barley malt" they sold by the
pound.  Is this type of stuff ever suitable for brewing?  Anyone ever
try?  It is about $1.50/lb so it seems it would be a cheap experiment
to brew something with it?  Any suggestions?

respond by email if possible
Alex
geotex at engin.umich.edu


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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 13:49 CDT
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: starters/Widmer/HopPicking/Flora&Fauna/SNPAyeast/Wyeast1007/HopUtiliz

John writes:
>To make a yeast starter:
>   obtain a 1/2 or 1 gallon juice jug (or any similarly size glass container).
>   obtain an appropriate sized rubber stopper and fermentation lock.
>   santitize your starter, fermentation lock, and liquid yeast packet.
>
>   boil 1 pint water with 2/3 cup light dry extract for 5 mintutes.
>   add 1 point cold water to your starter jug.
                ^^^^
This had better be boiled and cooled water -- *everything* must be sanitized
(sterilized would be even better -- I use a pressure cooker).

>   add your "mini wort" to your starter.
>      The addtional pint of cold water helps to bring the mixture's temp.
>      down to 80-90degress.  I usually fill my sink with more cold water and
>      sit the starter jug in the water until the temp. drops to ~70.
>
>   figerously shake the starter to help oxygenate the "mini wort."
>   carefully open the liquid packet and add the contents to the starter jug.
>   cap with the fermentation lock and wait.

Good description... I just wanted to highlight the sanitized-cold-water
point.

*****************

David writes:
>What did you think of Widmer Bock?  I recently tried this, and
>thought it was fantastic... but since I'm used to drinking Henry
>Weinhard, or (ACK!) Miller Genuine Draft, I don't have much to
>compare to.  I'd like to get the opinion of some of those who are
>"in the know" of what a fine beer should taste like.

Yes... I did, at that place with three names (something Bakery,
something Restaurant and Widmer Brewery (although it is technically
next door)).  I don't have my tasting notes here, but I remember it
was very good.  I recall it had an OG of 1066 and did have a noticable
alcoholic component to the flavor.  It was really the first American-
made Bock I've tasted which I feel deserved to be called a Bock.
Most I've had don't have that alcoholic component.  If you like
Widmer Bock, you might as well take any remaining Henry's and MDG
out of your fridge and store it warm for rinsing kegs... you'll need
the room for some of the great bottled beers in the PNW!

*************************
Tim writes:
>I have two hop plants, (out of three planted last March), 
>and I am wondering when to collect the flowers.  There 

Ideally, and if you have the patience, harvest each cone
as it becomes ripe.  Ripe cones are noticably lighter, drier
and "fluffier" than un-ripe.  If it begins to turn yellow
at the tips, then it's over-ripe.  Note that you will still
have to dry them before storing them away.  I don't have my
notes here, but last year, I believe my hops lost 90% of
their weight during drying -- I used a food dessicator, but
I think it was too hot (too rough on them).

***********************
I wrote that yeast are animals.  Apparently, two or three additional
kingdoms have been created in addition to plants and animals.  Yeast
appear now to be neither plants nor animals.

***********************
Bob writes:
>Is it possible to culture yeast from the last inch or so of a bottle of
>Sierra Nevada Pale Ale by pouring it into the starter I am making for a
>batch? I am re-hydrating from dry yeast, and adding the beery slurry from the
>SNPA. It was the cleanest ale Ihave made yet, very good. Do you suppose I
>picked up some viable yeasties?

Yes it's possible, but you need to give it a day or two to start.  You may
have picked up some viable yeasties, but dry yeast is quite a bit faster
starting than the small amount of SNPA yeast (which by the way bears a
striking resemblence to Wyeast #1056), so the SNPA yeast contribution was
probably imperceptable.

********************
Dave writes:
>I brewed up a batch of German Dusseldorf style Alt over the 
>weekend with about 20 % German wheat malt and Wyeast 1007, 
>(German) and got the strongest fermentation I have ever seen.  This 
>is in a 15.5 gallon batch and by strongest I mean the speed and 
>amount of blow off that was generated.  I had between 1.5 and 1.75 
>gallons of blow off and after it settled I had a least 3/4 of a pint of 
>yeast.  (Of course the batch is still going strong.)  Am wondering if 
>this is the effect of the 1007 yeast, the wheat malt or both.  The 

Both.  The 1007 is notorious for a BIG kraeusen and the wheat malt will
add some head-retaining small proteins.

**********************
Brian writes:
>lfk at veritas.com (Lynn Kerby) writes about boiling all hops << 1 hour:
>>Are there other brewers out there that are doing something similar
>>with their hopping techniques?  I would be interested in hearing about
>>experiences with beers that get a significant percentage of their IBUs
>>in later stages of the boil.
>
>Perhaps It's my water (soft, though certainly not softened),
>or the pH, or maybe something else, but I never seems to get
>as much bitterness out of my hop additions as would seem to
>be correct from HBU/IBU/boil time charts.  For instance, a recent
>barleywine with 9.5 oz of fresh goldings/fuggle/N Brewer plugs,
>the longest of which was boiled for over an hour (should have had
>150+ IBU) was criticized as being way too sweet in a contest.
>
>To compensate, I have taken to longer hop boils.  So far, I have not
>had any problem with off-tastes in young beers (even barleywines).
>Note also that I use a blowoff, which loses some hop bitterness,
>and that I do not use high-alpha american hops.

First off, I virtually always use some flavor hops in the last 15 minutes
of the boil, often 20 to 40% of the IBUs in the last 15 minutes.

Secondly, I use Jackie Rager's formulas, but add 10% since I use a hop
boiling bag and another 10% if I use whole hops in stead of pellets.
I have not had my beers tested for actual IBUs, but my taste buds seem
to confirm that my numbers are right.  My boil hops are usually in for
60 to 90 minutes.

>Many (Most?) breweries (PU and Traquiar I know for sure)
>boil the bittering hops 4+ hours.  As long as you have an handle
>(from expreience) on how much hop bitterness to expect, I see no
>reason to boil the bittering hops for an extended period of time.

I'm quite certain that most breweries don't boil that long, let alone
boil their hops that long.  I've read that the maximum utilization one can
expect from hops is 30% of the alpha acids and according to various
hop utilization tables I've seen, anything more than 60 minutes does
not increase hop utilization significantly.

Al.

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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1993 14:09:01 -0600 (CST)
From: John Mare <cjohnm at ccit.arizona.edu>
Subject: RE: Ethan's Earwax

Ed Fromohio raises a serious problem confronting brewer's and especially
tipplers, namely how to keep earwax out of beer. When I started brewing and
imbibing I too struggled with this problem, but I have it licked! Common
earmuffs (any colour works) do a wonderful job if donned prior to coming in
contact with beer. Since these are hard to come by in Arizona I have
resorted to wearing a swimmer's rubber cap, works wonders! Hope this helps
Ethan.
John from John's Alehouse.

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 10:42:36 PDT
From: hartman at varian.CSB.Varian.COM (John Hartman)
Subject: Re: Counterflow Questions

In HBD #1195 Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> asks:

>  1. Some have mentioned that they sanitize their counterflow chillers
     by running boiling water through them.  How do you get the boiling
     water in the chiller without scalding yourself?

I'd like to point out a technique I've been using with my counterflow chiller
for about the last 8 batches.  It improves sanitation while reducing the work
involved.

I must say first of all that one needs a hot water pump.  About 5 minutes
before the end of the boil I setup the counterflow chiller: To do this I place
a pick up tube in the boiler and attach its output to the input of my hot water
pump.  The output of the hot water pump is then attached to the input of my
counterflow chiller.  It's important (for priming purposes) to have the pump
upstream of the counterflow.  Otherwise there's too much dead-volume and
priming becomes a nightmare.  Leaving the counter-flowing water turned
off (sic) I start the system from the output-side of the chiller.  Once started
I direct the output back into the boiler.  Within 15 seconds this tepid wort
reaches a temperature of 180F, since it's not being chilled.  I leave the
system pumping this way for 5-10 min.  During this interval the entire chiller
is sanitized.  Any pathogens originally in the chiller are quickly killed
either in place or as they are carried to the boiling vat.

At this point I turn the burner off and the counter-flowing water on.  Within
a minute the effluent drops to pitching temp and I then direct it to the
waiting fermentor.  The nice thing is the system only needs to be plumbed
once--for both sanitizing and chilling.  This saves a lot of time and
minimizes the hassle of sanitizing the chiller.

Comments?
John
Oakland, CA

hartman at varian.varian.com



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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 21:44:22 PDT
From: LIFE'S TOO SHORT TO DRINK CHEAP BEER <UNDERWOOD at INTEL7.intel.com>
Subject: Hot yeast


	Hey all, 

	First..I made my first all grain a month ago.  I'm pleased with
	the results...no it wasn't harder but it took a while longer to
	clean up.  Anyway, the plunge has been took.  Now.  I saved the
	leftover yeast slurry in a (hopefully) clean sanitized Mason Jar.
	It went into my beer fridge and nicely settled out into several
	layers of color.  Well my electric bill decided the beer fridge
	had to be shut off.  Now a month later, I have this mason jar
	in a hot fridge in a hot garage (New Mexico is HOT in July)
	full of hoy yeast.  Are they still good?  The top has bowed
	up quite a bit.  Should I throw it away and buy more or if I can
	use it....what now?

				Thanks in advance

					Cu

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 15:34:01 -0700
From: jimmyp at netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick)
Subject: Beer (the magazine)


I saw the recent article about All About Beer by (sorry, I forgot.)
I just received the premiere issue of a magazine called "Beer the magazine
" It is put out by Bill Owens, founder of Buffalo Bill's in Hayward and
publisher of American Brewer magazine. The book is about beer, not specifi-
cally brewing. But, it may be of interest to some of you. I talked to Bill
about 8 months ago andhe mentioned a Wine Spectator (ie tabloid, high-gloss)
format. The magazine looks way better than I could have imagined.

Some articles:
Hot&Wet - Chili Beer
Wheat Beers - Feature article & reviews
Beerspective - A column by (you guessed it) M. Jackson
Interview with Alan Eames (the Beer King)
Easy Homebrew - Easy Steps to Better brew

etc. etc.

The magazine is fat and contains many articles. It might be worth
a look but again, it is aimed for consumers. I have no financial interest
in the magazine but I thought you all might be interested. E-mail me
for more info.

Jimmy


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Date: Wed, 04 Aug 1993 15:38:45 -0600 (CST)
From: John Mare <cjohnm at ccit.arizona.edu>
Subject: RE: Yeast = animals?

The perception that bacteria are "plants", and protozoa are "animals" is an
old one, no longer held to be useful or valid. While no single biological
classification is accepted by all, a currently popular one is the so-called
"Five Kingdom System". The imbibers of beer are in the "Animalia", the
hops and barley are in the "Plantae", the yeasts are in the "Fungi", the
unwanted (but sometimes necessary) bacteria are in the "Monera", and the
protozoa (often in the water until boiled) are in the family "Protista".
Another name for the "Monera" is "Prokaryotae", the kingdom in which the
bacteria reside. All monerans are unicellular, and have no no organized
nucleus, in contrast to the multicellular members of the "Plantae". As you
can see there is little sense in persisting with the idea that bacteria are
plants!

The term "microflora" has been and still is widely used to descibe
populations of bacteria, but this usage too is falling away, to be replaced
by the more neutral "microbiota". I hope this helps!

John's Alehouse John

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1993 21:59:00 EST
From: "/R=GTC/R=A1/U=BRANNAGJB/O=College Marketing/TN=250-8384/FFN=Gretchen Brannaman/" at mr.gvltec.edu
Subject: Mead

I'm chomping at the bit to get started with my first attempt at a sparkling 
mead, but I'm reading about all the micro-nasties in the hot summer air
waiting to destroy my efforts.  Since it takes yeast longer to get going
in mead (thus giving opportunities for intruders) should I wait until Fall
to begin?  I'd hate to wait nearly a year for my mead to ferment only to crack 
one open and find that some other critter got to it before my yeast-of-choice
got there!  I'll wait if you all think I'd have better luck. My sanitation
must be OK because I havent had any bad batches of beer.  But I REALLY want 
this mead to be wonderful.  Please reply to brannagjb at yogi.gvltec.edu
or publish it if folks are interested.  Thanks   Gretchen

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Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1993 21:11:13 -0600 (MDT)
From: thomas ciccateri <tciccate at carina.unm.edu>
Subject: Chiles

  For informative reviews of various varieties of Chile Peppers and their
contributions of flavor and heat to food and beer, check out Chile Pepper
Magazine.  Contact: Out West Publishing, Box 4278, Albuquerque, NM 87196,
(505)889-3745.
  Can anyone report the collective review of the grind-off between the
Maltmill and the PhilMill which occurred at the AHA Conference Jambeeree
last Tuesday night ?  Has anyone analyzed the grind from the Glatt Malt
Mill, specifically, do the deep grooves in the rollers tear the husks
apart too greatly ?
  For those lucky enough to have some of the Chile Extract given away
by The Beverage People during the conference, could you please post the
results of its use.
  Regarding yeast starters beginning with a petri dish.  At the Yeast
Culturing class given by Siebel at the conference last Saturday, they
tell commercial brewers to increase volume by no more than 5 times
per step so that the yeast would get accustomed to eating various
sugars as they'll be found in the wort.  The did concede that homebrewers
with low volumes of well-areated wort could get by with step increases
greater x 5.  I go from 5 ml to 50 to 500 then finally to 1500.  Diacytl
or excessive unfermentables don't seem to be a problem.  They also
recommended starter gravities around 1048 unless the target beer is high
gravity.

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1197, 08/05/93