HOMEBREW Digest #1205 Tue 17 August 1993

Digest #1204 Digest #1206

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  re:Zymurgy bashing (Jim Busch)
  Blackberry Mead Responses (Andrew Cluley)
  Yeast FAQ possible mix up (WEIX)
  Yeast FAQ part 2 of 7 (read this after intro then continue in seq.) (WEIX)
  RedHook's Malt (Domenick Venezia)
  Grolsch bottles & Carbonation (Philip J Difalco)
  Hard, high pH water treatment for new masher (Bill Flowers)
  cleaning swinger (Mark S. Hart)
  Re: double fermentation (ref. HBD #1184) (Bill Flowers)
  Re: The Tumbleweed Report (Part 4) (Richard Stueven)
  Blackberry Mead (pblshr)
  Brew Pubs in Vancouver/Victoria (Brad Roach)
  Shipping live yeast (Jim Griggers)
  RE: fermenting a lager (Tom Leith MIR/ERL 362-6965)
  Brewpot w/Electric Water Heater Element (Harry Covert)
  Missing Head (r.wize)
  Fifth annual TRUB open (MIKE LELIVELT)
  Auto Reply from Watch_Mail for 13-AUG-1993 11:30 to 31-AUG-1993 08:00 (Greg Roody - MCS Prod Srvc Mgmt O/S Domain - 508-496-9314  16-Aug-1993 0545)
  Homebrew Market Size Data (16-Aug-1993 0845)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 13:18:19 -0500 (CDT) From: WEIX at swmed.edu Subject: (ii) Inoculation: a. For each jar, start by sterilizing its neck. Then sterilize ("flame") the inculation loop. Open a slant, quench the loop in clean agar ("sizzle") and use the loop to remove some yeast. Remove the airlock and then add the yeast to the starter jar. Replace the airlock, and then start work on the next jar. (iii) Initial Buildup: a. Place the starter jars in a location where 68F (18C can be held). Aerate twice daily by vigorously shaking jars. 1L Erlenmeyer flasks are excellent for this purpose because they permit vigorous swirling without getting the wort up by the neck and opening. b. A widely used practice is to discard any starter that is not active within 48 hours. Certainly if some of the starters are active within this period, then the inactive ones should be discarded. In any case, any starter not active within 72 hours should definitely be discarded even if this means they are all discarded. (iv) Second Wort Charge a. When the foam has receded prepare 250ml. of fresh sterile and aerated wort for each starter. b. The new wort is to be added to each starter, and this should be done as cleanly as possible. c. Before pouring the wort into the starters, it is very important to swab the necks of the starter jar and the wort jar with a 200 proof alcohol solution to prevent contamination or flame them with a lighter. d. It is also desirable to reduce the temperature to a point closer to the temperature that will be used in production if that is lower than 18 C. For example, with lagers fermented at 10 C, this is usually taken to be 14-15 C. e. The starters should be aerated at the start and then again after 12 hours. New activity should be seen before 24 hrs. Those which are not active within 36-48 hours should be discarded. f. Increase the volume of wort until you have sufficient volume to pitch. (v) Pitching the Yeast a. At this time you should have a jar with about 500ml (a little more than 2 cups) of yeast for a 5gal ale batch. I would suggest pitching before the krausen (foam) totally dies down so that the yeast are still in rapid growth phase. The total volume will vary with batch size, yeast type, and your personal experience/whim. Remember to keep yeast notes along with your beer notes so that you can learn from experience! b. Clean the outside of the jar with 200 proof alcohol or weak bleach and allow to dry. c. It is not advised that you pitch the old wort and yeast into the fermenter because the media has been exposed to air and oxidized, etc, etc. Therefore, pour off or siphon off the old media, leaving the yeast on the bottom of the flask. Pour this slurry into the primary or resuspend this slurry in sterile water and add immediately to the wort. A short exposure to water will not harm the yeast, although they should not be exposed to it for long periods or they will lyse. D. Preparation of New Slants Two steps are needed in the preparation of new slants. The first consists of adding the proper media to test tubes or petri dishes. Once prepared the slants will store well far a very long time when refrigerated, so many can be prepared at one time. The second step consists of inoculating the slants with yeast. For the homebrewer who cannot afford several refrigerators: Please be advised that your refrigerator is a haven for bacteria, mold, and wild yeast. Anyone wishing to store sterile slants in their refrigerator is advised to 1. Wipe down the slants before storage with ethanol or your favorite sanitizing solution. 2. Seal the slants with parafilm or electrical tape. 3. Keep the slants in a ziplock bag.4. Wipe down the bag with ethanol or your favorite sanitizing solution before opening. Preparation of Media: (i) The media consists of dry malt extract and agar. As a general rule 4 tablespoons of malt extract and 1 tablespoon of agar per cup of water will yield 16-18 slants. (ii) Bring the water to a boil, and then stir in the malt extract. Boil for 10 mins. (iii) Remove from heat, and then start stirring in the agar. This will take some effort, but this usually indicates that a good solidification will ultimately be achieved. If your slants "sweat" too much, increase the amount of agar you use. Although commercial/scientific agar will vary little, I cannot answer for "food grade" supplies. Gelatin is easier to dissolve, but it sometimes does not always give a proper solidification. (iv) When the agar is dissolved, the malt/agar solution should be added to the test tubes, filling each to approximately a third of their volume. Add the screw cap, but do not fully tighten. (v) Autoclave the tubes at 15 psi for 5 mins. (vi) Tighten the caps on the tubes, and place them at a 30 degree angle. Allow them to solidify at room temperature. Solidification should become apparent within a few hours. Tubes which are not solid after 24 hrs. should be discarded. (vii) Refrigerate until needed. Note: Petri dishes can not be autoclaved, and so alternate procedures are needed for them. A common practice is to autoclave the malt/ agar solution in small jars. The agar solution is then poured into the petri dishes. Let the agar cool until the jars are hot but touchable. If the agar is too hot it will warp the plates. Swirl it gently to mix but avoid bubbles. It is also a good idea to leave petri dishes prepared in this way at 25-30 C for 1-2 weeks to make sure bacteria or molds are not present. Let the poured plates dry overnight in a clean quiet room. Wipe them down, seal them, and bag them, but leave them at room temperature for 1 week. The bad bugs, if they are there, will be visually apparent at the end of that period and the contaminated plates discarded. While Petri dishes are more trouble than test tubes, they do offer the distinct advantage of having more surface area and being easier to store. After the trial period the dishes should be refrigerated. Inoculation of Slants: (i) Collection a small portion of the yeast to be added to the slants. It goes without saying that one should strictly follow the standard sterilization procedures of all items used to collect this yeast. (iii) With one hand sterilize the inculation loop (flame or alcohol solution). With the other hand open the cap of a slant. (iv) Dip the loop into the yeast solution, and remove a small amount. (v) Slowly insert the loop into the tube avoiding contact with either the sides or neck of the tube. Streak the yeast over the solid. Only a thin layer is wanted, and one should try to use as much of the surface area as possible. (vi) Slowly remove the loop avoiding contact with tube walls or neck. Add the screw cap back on the tube and tighten. (vii) When finished store the tubes at 25 C for one week. Visually inspect all tubes at this time both for yeast growth, and also for any irregularities. Discard those which are not satisfactory. (viii) Store the remainder at 2-8 C. After 3-4 mos. of storage, unused tubes should either be discarded or recultured; i.e., propagated by the procedures in Section III.2.c and then put on on fresh slants. The best idea is to put production yeast on slants on a regular basis so that reculturing is not necessary. Note: The larger surface area afforded by Petri dishes can be used to advantage in the above procedure. In particular, it useful to streak out yeast in parallel lines which make angles with each other. This allows for a better examination of growth patterns. Petri dishes should be sealed after the 1 week trial period with electrician's tape and refrigerated. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 14:26:35 EDT From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: re:Zymurgy bashing IN the last digest: <Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1993 09:16:17 -0700 (PDT) <From: jal at plaza.ds.adp.com (Jim Larsen) <Subject: Open letter to Zymurgy <The following item, in response to Elizabeth Gold's request for light <beer recipes, bounced on its way to her Compuserve address. > Elizabeth, > > Do you propose publishing in Zymurgy beer recipes which you have neither > tried nor even tasted? > > This is not the sort of responsible journalism that would keep Zymurgy > at the fore of the homebrewing industry. I think this is uncalled for. Many of us will agree that the AHA has not done a very good job of appealing to the more advanced brewers. I think we should be welcoming the change in the AHA that is evident by the editor of Zymurgy requesting technical info from us the HBD community. It is quite apparent that there is some technical brewing knowledge right here and it is a welcome change to see the powers that be asking for input from us, even if it is on a "light beer style" question (eeechhh). It is also naive to believe that any publication would have the time or resources to actually taste or verify the recipes that are given by people who are supposed to be knowledgeable in the subject matter. Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 11:32:54 -0700 From: drew at eskimo.com (Andrew Cluley) Subject: Blackberry Mead Responses Thank you for your help. I'm posting these responses so all can enjoy. Sorry for the spacing. I guess my initial estimate of 3-4 lbs of fruit is way too low. Subject: RE: HBD 1203 (blackberry mead) Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 8:25:32 EDT Hi Drew, You are about to embark on a homebrewing experience that will leave you forever changed. I brewed a black rasberry mead last season that was probably the best stuff (beer or mead) that I have ever made. The recipe was patterned after Papazians "Purple Haze Hendrix Mead" which was posted in some past Zymurgy issue (I'm working without my references here). Pap says in comments following this recipe that this is one of his all-time favorites and I would have to second that opinion. This season my parents and girlfriend gladly helped to pick about 32 lbs of fresh black rasberries at the local U-pick-um farm with the understanding that they will all be supplied with the resulting nectar. BTW it was an incredible year for rasberries here in Ohio. My recipe goes something like this: Black Rasberry Melomel 8-12 lbs of good quality honey (I like raw orange-blossom) 10-15 lbs of very ripe black rasberries (picked fresh then frozen for a days before brewing) 2.5 tsp pectic enzyme 1.25 tsp good yeast energizer (I like the stuff that is primarily urea but also contains a bunch of B-vitamins and various amino acids) Optional: 1-2 oz fresh ginger (grated or finely sliced) 1 oz dried lemongrass (the reason most of the ingredients have a range of quantities is that I varied the recipe a bit this year) Procedure: - Bring 2 gal of good brewing water to a boil and add honey - Boil honey must for 10-15 min (you can skim the scum if you want to, but I'm not convinced it makes a difference) - Add rasberries, ginger, and lemongrass, stir and turn off heat - Cover and let steep (read pasteurize) 20 min - Cool, dilute to 5 gal and add pectic enzyme and yeast nutrient - Aereate VERY well and pitch your favorite mead yeast ->If you dont have a favorite, I can recomend "Lalvin S. Cerevisiae (an eppernay type) as an excellent choice. - Wait patiently Notes: 1. I use two stage fermentation with the racking of the mead coming when the CO2 is down to about 1 bubble every 15-30s (usually about 1 wk.) 2. I have used the Lalvin yeast on my last six or so batches of mead and I am very pleased with the speed with wich it starts and finishes. It also flocculates well and besides all that it leaves a nice clean slightly sweet finish. I have been ready to bottle after only about a month of fermentation (counting both stages) since I started using this yeast. BTW I think the yeast energizer is critical to this as well. 3. The above recipe is pretty general. I used essentially the same program to make both strawberry and mullberry melomels as well this summer. Let me know if you have other questions. Good Brewing, Mark Fryling Department of Chemistry The Ohio State University <mfryling at magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> "Never let your sense of morality prevent you from doing what is right" I. Asimov >From davep at cirrus.com Fri Aug 13 09:35:52 1993 ss Message-Id: <9308131635.AA01544 at sunscreen.cirrus.com> Subject: Blackberry mead To: drew at eskimo.com Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 09:35:10 -0700 (PDT) Hi Drew, Your request for a Blackberry mead recipe caught my eye in the HBD. Being from Seattle, I know that the blackberries are ready to pick this weekend, so if you get any recipes, could you forward them to me? TIA, Dave Subject: re: Blackberry Mead Date: 13 Aug 93 11:08:18 MDT (Fri) From: rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) > Does anyone have a good recipe for Blackberry Mead? Not a specific recipe, but based on the variations I've done: Use around 2 lb fruit per gallon to get a strong fruit character. Use around 2 lb honey per gallon. (I normally use a full gallon of honey--which is a bit under 12 lb--in a 5 gallon batch.) You can use a fairly strong honey with berries like this. That's it--berries, honey, water, and a suitable yeast. My current favorite yeast for melomels is "Prise de Mousse". Crush the berries; you don't actually need to extract the juice. Use a plastic-pail primary fermenter. Assuming you get a good fast start to fermentation, I'd skim out all the berry-crud and rack it after about a week. That should be enough to ferment out most of the berry sugar. If you leave the berries in much longer, you'll get too much astringent character. You might consider a mixture of berries--say blackberry+raspberry. Depen- ding on the type of blackberries and what the growing season was like, blackberries can be rather bland. (This surprised me.) Frozen fruit works just fine; in fact the freezing helps break up the berries and release the juice. However, given your location and the season, I'm guessing you have plenty of fresh fruit. - --- Dick Dunn rcd at eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado USA ...Simpler is better. Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 08:08:05 EDT From: sims at pdesds1.scra.org (Jim Sims) Subject: re: blackberry mead I'm not sure if I have a 'good' recipe or not - I think I bottled some mead with blackberries (i know I did some with raspberries, strawberries, and (i think cherries)). I'll check when I get home tonite and if i've got one i'll give it a try (thanks for giving me a great excuse to try it - been waiting for a long time)... jim Drew Cluley > Seattle Wa. drew at eskimo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 13:35:43 -0500 (CDT) From: WEIX at swmed.edu Subject: Yeast FAQ possible mix up Hi all. I tried to post my yeast FAQ to the HBD today, and one of my messages was rejected, and the bounced back message was all garbled! I apologize in advance if any of the other submissions of mine are messed-up or out of sequence. Rather than try again today and drown the net with garbage, I will wait until tomorrow and see what came through. Sorry! (Well, I am!) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 13:52:29 -0500 (CDT) From: WEIX at swmed.edu Subject: Yeast FAQ part 2 of 7 (read this after intro then continue in seq.) SECTION I: Yeast Characteristics Yeast are unicellular fungi. All brewing yeast belong to the genus Saccharomyces. Ale yeast are S. cerevisiae, and lager yeast are S. uvarum (formerly carlsbergerensis). Weizen yeasts are usually 50/50 mixtures of cerevesiae and "delbrueckii" (delbrueckii may or may not be an accepted toxonomic class, however its use as a label appears widespread, and it is used herein for simplicity). You may ask,"If all these yeast are the same species, why all the fuss?" The fuss has to do with strain variation. Just as all dogs are the same species, yet no one will ever mistake a basset hound for a doberman (at least not twice :-). Using different strains can add fun and spice to brewing, especially if you have an idea of the differences. I originally put together this guide to catalogue the different affects of different strains. This information is in Section II. Some yeast strains are more active and vigorous than others. Lager strains in particular do not show as much activity on the surface as many of the ale strains. Most packages provide an adequate quantity of yeast to complete fermentation with varying amounts of lag time depending on strain, freshness, handling, and temperature. If you find it too slow, make a starter as recommended on the package or as listed in Section III. In any event, a closed fermenter with an airlock is recommended. Temperature The slow onset of visible signs of fermentation can be improved by starting fermentation at 75 deg. F (24 deg. C) until activity is evident, then moving to your desired fermentation temperature. A few degrees does make a significant difference without adversely affecting flavor. The normal temperatures for ale yeast range from 60-75 deg. F (16-24 deg. C) A few strains ferment well down to 55 deg. F (13 deg. C). 68 deg. F (20 deg. C) is a good average. Lager strains normally ferment from 32-75 deg. F (0-24 deg. C). 50-55 deg. F (10-12 deg. C) is customary for primary fermentation. A slow steady reduction to the desired temperature for secondary fermentation typically works well. The fermentation rate is directly related to temperature. The lower the temperature, the slower fermentation commences. Fluctuations in tempera- ture such as cooling and warming from night to day can adversely affect yeast performance. Attenuation Attenuation refers to the percentage of sugar converted to alcohol. Apparent attenuation of yeast normally ranges from 67-77%. The attenuation is determined by the composition of the wort or juice and the yeast strain used. Each yeast strain ferments different sugars to varying degrees, resulting in higher or lower final gravities. This will affect the resid- ual sweetness and body. Really, it's slightly more complex than that (isn't everything ?-).There's "apparent attenuation" and "real attenuation". The difference comes about because alcohol has a specific gravity less than 1 (about .8). Real attenuation is the percent of sugars converted to alcohol. So, if you had a 10% (by weight) sugar solution (about 1.040), and got 100% real attenuation, the resulting specific gravity would be about 0.991 (corresponding to about 5% alcohol by weight). The apparent attenuation of this brew would be 122%! George Fix published a set of equations relating apparent and real attenuation and alcohol content last year. To wit: A = alcohol content of finished beer in % by wt. RE = real extract of finished beer in deg. Plato Since A and RE are generally not known to us, additional approximations are needed. The following are due to Balling, and have proven to be reasonable. Let OE and be defined as follows: OE = original extract (measured deg. Plato of wort) AE = apparent extract (measured deg. Plato of finished beer). Then, RE = 0.1808*OE + 0.8192*AE, and A = (OE-RE)/(2.0665-.010665*OE). The "tricky part" here is the expression of the sugar content in degrees Plato. This is a fancy term for % sugar by weight, and corresponds *roughly* to "degrees gravity" divided by 4. That is, a 1.040 wort has an extract of 10 degrees Plato. He goes on to calculate an example: To take a specific case, first note that from Plato tables an OG of 1.045 is equivalent to OE = 11.25 deg. Plato, while a FG of 1.010 is equivalent to AE = 2.5 deg. Plato. Therefore, RE =0.1808*11.25 + 0.8192*2.5 = 4.08 deg. Plato, and A = (11.25 - 4.08)/(2.0665 - .010665*11.25) = 3.68 % wt. The apparent attenuation is 75% (from 1.040 to 1.010), the real attenuation is (11.25 - 4.08)/11.25 = 64%. N.B. Most attenuation figures are given in terms of *apparent* attenuation. (Thanks to Chris Pencis quoting Stuart Thomas quoting George Fix). Flocculation Flocculation refers to the tendency of yeast to clump together and settle out of suspension. The degree and type of flocculation varies for different yeast. Some strains clump into very large flocculate. Some flocculate very little giving a more granular consistency. Most yeast strains clump and flocculate to a moderate degree. pH Ranges Typical pH range for yeast fermentations begins at about 5.1 and optimally 4.8. During the course of fermentation the pH reduces to typically 3.9- 4.1 and as low as 3.1 in some wines. Alcohol Tolerances The alcohol tolerance for most brewing yeast is as least to 8%. Barley wines to 12% can be produced by most ale strains. Pitching rates need to be increased proportionally to higher gravities. Alternately, Champagne and Wine yeast can be used for high gravities sometimes reaching alcohols to 18%. Smells and Tastes Although the principle tastes present in a beer are the result of the malts and hops used, the strain of yeast used can also add important flavors, good and/or bad. Yeast that add little in the way of extra flavors are usually described as having a "clean" taste. These yeast are especially useful for beginners because they permit experimentation with different ingredients without worrying about yeast influence. Yeast produce three main classes of metabolic by-products that affect beer taste: phenols, esters, and diacetyl. Phenols can give a "spicy" or "clove-like" taste. Esters can lend a "fruity" taste to beer. Diacetyls can give beer a "butterscotch" or sometimes a "woody" taste. The desirability of any one of these components depends largely on the style of beer being brewed. In addition, there are certain by-products in these families that are more noxious than the others. A lot depends on the individual palette and the effect youUre aiming for. A final note: some yeast, especially lager yeast during lagering, can produce a "rotten egg" smell. This is the result of hydrogen sulfite production. Although the scent of this bubbling out of the air-lock is enough to make the strongest homebrewmeister blanch, fear not! The good news is that this will usually pass, leaving the beer unaffected. Relax, etc. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 11:56:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: RedHook's Malt I wrote in #1202: > I called the Redhook Brewery and spoke to Thomas Price, a very nice and > helpfull guy. Sorry, Al, but there is no wheat malt in their Summer > Rye. Here's the scoop: > > 10% flaked organic rye > 5% Munich > 85% 2-row barley (probably Briess) ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ Jeff Frane wrote in #1203 > Given that the Red Hook Brewery is within 175 miles of Great Western's > Vancouver, WA plant (and in the same state), this seems bizarre if not > completely unlikely. As far as I've been able to determine over the > years, virtually every west coast brewery gets their base malt fm GW. > Even if the quality of their malt wasn't the question, surely shipping > rates would be. My original guess that their 2-row was Briess was based on the stacks of Briess Malt sacks glimpsed through the brewery's window. A phone call to Thomas Price clarified the matter. Redhook gets their wheat malt from Briess and as Jeff correctly surmissed they get virtually everything else from Great Western. Yikes! This is a TOUGH room. Domenick Venezia Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 15:09:13 -0400 From: Philip J Difalco <sxupjd at anubis.fnma.COM> Subject: Grolsch bottles & Carbonation I also use Grolsch bottles (using usual anal sanitation precautions), and have had no problems with any of my batches. However, concerning carbonation, I did notice that the few beers that I put into the fridge, for a little over a weeks time, experienced less carbonation than the ones I stored in my basement. The gaskets are relatively new (as the bottles are not even 5 months old). I was thing that the colder fridge temperatures may have caused the gaskets to contract enough to make an imperfect seal letting gas escape from the beer (to outside the bottle), thusly reducing the beer's carbonation (factor). - --- email: sxupjd at fnma.com (NeXT Mail Okay) Philip DiFalco, Senior SomethingOrOther, Advanced Technology FannieMae, 3900 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington, DC 22016 (202)752-2812 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 15:44:00 -0400 From: Bill Flowers <waflowers at qnx.com> Subject: Hard, high pH water treatment for new masher I've started mashing and I think I might have a problem: my water supply has a high pH (8.0-8.2) and is quite hard (250 ppm). Its perfect for the fish I keep (rift valley cichlids), but I'm not sure what to do with it for brewing. Before I started mashing I never concerned myself with it, but now I'm mashing and wanting to make pale ales and pilsners instead of stouts and Munich dunkels, so it is now a concern. I've got a call into the lab to get the water analysis details, but I won't have them until Monday. I've also got access to lower pH, softer (but still not soft) water here at the office. I'll get the details of it on Monday too. I've read Miller on water treatment, and it just left me more confused than ever. Why can't he just say: "Do this if you have this water, do that if you have some other water"? What I want is a recipe or flow chart (or hand holding) on what to do with my mash and sparge water. Can anyone help me? Or at least put Miller's explanation in terms I might understand. - --- W.A. (Bill) Flowers email: waflowers at qnx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. QUICS: bill (613) 591-0934 (data) (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 15:31:39 CDT From: Mark S. Hart <hart at hvhp1> Subject: cleaning swinger Full-Name: Mark S. Hart Just a data point. I have always used the brown and green swing top/Grolsch bottles. Being a procrastinating lazy sort here's the easiest way I've found to clean them with out a single mishap to date. Rinse the bottles after emptying and stick em in the dish washer with the dinner stuff. Save these bottles (usually only 5 or 6) until you have enough to bottle the next batch. When your ready to bottle the next batch wash all the bottles again and toss 1 or 2 ounces of bleach into the washer. The washer will recycle the bleach water solution a few times before beginning the rinse cylcle. Bottle when washer stops and every thing is dry. I usually don't use any soap on the second washing. Scoff all you want but I've done my last 7 or 8 batches this way with no worries or infections. Initially I was concerned about the bleach deteriorating my washers seals so I now dilute the 1 or 2 ounces of bleach in a gallon of water and dump the whole mess in the washer. So far everything is O'tay. I also have noted that the green bottles are superior in quality to the brown. See Ya, M. S. Hart Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 16:54:53 -0400 From: Bill Flowers <waflowers at qnx.com> Subject: Re: double fermentation (ref. HBD #1184) My apologies for the long delay in responding. Its amazing how far backlogged I can get in reading HBD when I go away for vacation. Anyway, in HBD #1184, STBLEZA at grove.iup.edu wrote: > Third: Has anyone on the digest tried to use a double fermentation on beer? > I heard about the process, and was thinking of trying it, but I decided to > consult higher authorities first. For those un-familar to the process, you > pitch a yeast with a low alcohol tolerance (ale and lager yeasts) into your > primary, then wait until the fermentation slows due to alcohol abundence, > transfer into a secondary, and pitch a second yeast in that has a higher > tolerance (such as a wine or champagne yeast). What effects would this have? > Is it at all desirable? Has anyone done this? Is there any literature on > this topic (I can't find the source that gave me the idea for this)? Have I > finally gone off the perverbial 'deep end'? Nope, you've not gone off the deep end. I've used this technique (based on 2nd hand information which was supposed to have come from the now retired, former senior biochemist for John Courage) on my Barley Wine, and it tastes fantastic! Before pitching the ale yeast, I put 1L of wort in a sanitized mason jar into the fridge. About 3 days into the primary fermetation, I removed the wort from the fridge in the morning to warm up. That evening I mixed it with 1L of boiled and cooled water (to get the gravity down to something more reasonable for a "starter") and pitched some champagne yeast. When that was well started I added it to the fermenting barley wine. For a beer like this where you want to get the typical ale flavor (esthers) as well as the higher alcohol content, I highly recommend the technique. - --- W.A. (Bill) Flowers email: waflowers at qnx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. QUICS: bill (613) 591-0934 (data) (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 15:09:34 -0700 From: Richard Stueven <gak at wrs.com> Subject: Re: The Tumbleweed Report (Part 4) Kinney laments: The decision to brew with extracts still bothers me. I could see myself making excuses (like I'm doing now) to my brewing buddies and my newly acquired peers in the commercial brewing world. But this was no time to be dogmatic. Instead we had to be realistic about the physical brewing environment and the market we were trying to crack. Sounds like you've slammed face-first into the Difference Between A Hobby And A Business. Good luck, Kinney! have fun gak Richard Stueven, Castro Valley CA gak & gerry's garage, brewery and hockey haven Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 18:53:51 EDT From: pblshr at aol.com Subject: Blackberry Mead If anyone sent Drew Cluley the recipe for Blackberry Mead, I'd appreciate getting a copy. PBLSHR at AOL.COM (Tom Finan) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 93 16:58:53 PDT From: b_roach at emulex.com (Brad Roach) Subject: Brew Pubs in Vancouver/Victoria I am vactioning in Vancouver and Victoria during September. If anyone knows of some good brew pubs or beer bars worth checking out, please pass along the information. Thanks, __ /_/ / / \ /_ __ __/ /___/_/ (_(_<_(_/ Brad Roach / QLogic / Costa Mesa, Calif b_roach at emulex.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 22:40:57 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Griggers <brew at devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> Subject: Shipping live yeast I bought a "Yeast Culture Kit" from _*deleted*_ when I was at the AHA Conference in Portland. I had been thinking of buying one for some time, and their "special show price" of $29.90 seemed great. "Save $10 since the regular price is $34.95 and you save the $5 shipping." I was told the slants would be inoculated on Monday after they got back to California. They would check for viability, and send them out by UPS. (Conference was July 27 - July 29) I called _*deleted*_ Thursday, August 12 to check on the yeast. I was told it was shipped out Monday, August 9, by surface, which I assumed was by UPS. The yeast arrived Friday in a plain manila envelope in the US Mail. My mail box is a standard flat-black metal rural box that spends 75% of its time in direct sunlight. Today is fairly cool (90F) and mostly cloudy. The temperature inside the box was around 105F. I guess I am lucky in that: 1) I was home, 2) I checked the mail early, and 3) today has mostly overcast skies. To quote their catalog: "IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to the delicate nature of live yeast and the temperature extremes in many parts of our country, we STRONGLY recommend 2nd Day Air delivery of your yeast culturing kits. (2nd-Day Air delivery is the only way we can guarantee your live yeast cultures to be viable upon reciept)." They charge $6.00 for this BTW. I was disappointed. I know they saved money shipping it by US Mail ($0.52 stamp), but why put the "IMPORTANT NOTE" in their catalog if it does not matter? I know the owner will make good on the yeast if it turns out to be fried, but that is not the point. I had delayed brewing because I didn't have any more yeast and I wasn't going to get more Wyeast since I had this yeast on order. (I drive 80 miles, each way, to Charlotte, NC to buy yeast, so I usually stockpile.) If the yeast turns out bad, then it would be another two weeks before I could expect a replacement. I guess I am asking the yeast experts out there what they think about the above conditions in the handling of yeast. What is affected by high temperatures of yeast on a slant, other than possibly lower viability? Can elevated storage temperature cause undesired fermentation characteristics? I am NOT knocking the shop owner or _*deleted*_, but I am questioning their choice of shipping. I have heard nothing but praise about their operation. The kit I bought is supposed to be the best on the market. The yeast I received may be in perfect condition. I am simply asking for information regarding yeast handling, since I am certainly not an expert on this subject. Thanks. -Jim Griggers jdg at devine.columbiasc.ncr.com West Columbia, South Carolina PS. Since I have not tested or used the yeast in question, I feel that it would be unfair to name the shop. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1993 08:17:44 -0500 From: trl at photos.wustl.edu (Tom Leith MIR/ERL 362-6965) Subject: RE: fermenting a lager Patrick asks in HBD 1203 about *fermenting* a lager by placing the carboy in a referigerator without using an AirStat(tm) or other thermostat. His concern was temperature fluctuations. The problem isn't so much with temperature fluctuations as with the mean temperature, Patrick. To ferment, you're looking for temperatures in the 45 - 55 F range. This is too warm for most regerigerators. They're expecting to keep things in the 32 - 40F range. Note that this is ideal for lagering, but not for the fermentation. In fact, I have an AirStat(tm) and the main problem I have with it is that it only goes down to 40F. Why? Well, who sets their air conditioner below 40 degrees? So, I use the AirStat(tm) to control in the fermentation and serving range, and just use the built-in regerigerator thermostat when lagering. There's a guy in our local brew club who uses a thermostat he got from Granger -- it controls over the whole range we want, and costs about the same as the AirStat(tm). You don't get the fancy LCD display though. If you have a Granger catalog, you might check it out. Hope this helps... t ============================================================================= Tom Leith InterNet: trl at wuerl.WUstl.EDU 4434 Dewey Ave. CompuServe: 70441,3536 St. Louis, Missouri 63116 "Tho' I could not caution all 314/362-6965 - Office I still might warn a few: 314/362-6971 - Office Fax Don't lend your hand 314/481-2512 - Home + Infernal Machine to raise no flag atop no Ship of Fools" ============================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Aug 93 18:41:56 EDT From: Harry Covert <73232.167 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Brewpot w/Electric Water Heater Element I am about to make a brewpot from a 15.5 gallon SS keg. Since I want to brew indoors I would like to heat the pot with an electric water heater element. Has anyone else done this, and if so, how did you do it? Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 93 23:36:00 BST From: r.wize at genie.geis.com Subject: Missing Head I have made some decent all grain beer lately but have noticed a significant difference in the way they hold a head. I have been very careful to pour the beers in the same type cleansed glassware so the only variable I can turn to is the grains. What makes this unique I believe is that the beers which do not hold a head are Wheat beers. My pale ales keep a head for a good 5 minutes while my wheat beers lose their head within 2 minutes. Two comparable grain brews were; Wheat Pale Brit Pale 0 8lbs Klages 6lbs 1lb Wheat 3.5lbs .5lb Crystal .5lb .5lb Is there something I don't understand here? I always thought wheat beers would have longer lasting heads and that is why you add a little wheat to most recipes. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1993 22:07:53 -0500 (EST) From: MIKE LELIVELT <MJL at UNCVX1.OIT.UNC.EDU> Subject: Fifth annual TRUB open A brief announcement for an upcoming competition. The TRiangle's Unabashed homeBrewers (TRUB) will host its fifth annual TRUB open on 10/16 of this year in Durham, NC. All catagories except Sake will be judged. If you are interested in obtaining an entry form or in judging for the competition, send me an e mail message at "mjl at uncvx1.oit.unc.edu". In the past we have received more than 75 entries thus judges have received a full experience point. Accommodations (read fellow member's sofas) will gladly be made available to travelling judges who request them. Prizes in the form of ribbons and a trophy and a case of Sam Adams whatever for best of show will be awarded. MIKE Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 93 05:45:39 EDT From: Greg Roody - MCS Prod Srvc Mgmt O/S Domain - 508-496-9314 16-Aug-1993 0545 <roody at stowoa.enet.dec.com> Subject: Auto Reply from Watch_Mail for 13-AUG-1993 11:30 to 31-AUG-1993 08:00 I will be out of the office on Vacation from Friday 13 August (afternoon only) until Monday 30 August. I will be back in the office on Tuesday, August 31st. I cannot check my voice mail (at DTN 276-9314 (508-496-9314)) while I'm away, so: -- If this is a non-critical & non time dependent matter, please leave a message and I will deal with things when I return. -- If you don't wish to wait, you can try contacting my partners in NT, Annemarie Davies at 276-8250 or Ed Mchugh at 276-9149, or my manager Susan Dugdale at 264-3699. /greg () =-=-=-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-=- * Note this will be the only "Automatic" message you will receive until * * I return. Of course, if you are on a cluster, this is the only message * * that this "node::user" will receive; using a different node::user will * * fool this silly little .com routine and you will get another copy of * * this message. * =-=-=-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-==-=- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 93 05:51:57 PDT From: 16-Aug-1993 0845 <macdonald at a1vax.enet.dec.com> Subject: Homebrew Market Size Data I have an idea for a product that might be of interest to homebrewers. While I'm working on a prototype I'm also searching for sources of informationon the homebrewer marketplace. Data on U.S., Canada, and Europe is of interest. I'm interested in estimates of the number of homebrewers, the dollar value of the market, and detail on how the dollars are spent (supplies,equipment,etc.) If anyone knows a source or has this sort of information I would love to hear from you via E-mail. regards, Bruce Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1205, 08/17/93