HOMEBREW Digest #1215 Tue 31 August 1993

Digest #1214 Digest #1216

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Wort Aeration (jdecarlo)
  doppelbock and fruit beers (Michael Hohnbaum)
  Canadian U-brews (Mark S. Hart)
  RE: Brewcap (John Mare)
  Liberty Hops, Pale Malt (Mark Garetz)
  Cheap Corny Kegs (ron_hall)
  Dead Space (fjdobner)
  Re: Tun size/Klages/Liberty/Fridge Conversion (korz)
  resend of yeast faq 1 of 8 (keeping my fingers crossed) (WEIX)
  degree of extract (Montgomery_John)
  yeast mailing/reproduction/flocculation (Todd Gierman)
  EXTRACTF (Domenick Venezia)
  Announcing MASHOUT '93 ("/R=FDACB/R=A1/U=RIDGELY/O=HFM-400/TN=FTS 402-1521/FFN=Bill Ridgely/")
  pronunciation of trub (Ulick Stafford)
  Nigerian Guinness (waltman)
  green chile beer again (notes on Coopersmith's "Sigda's") (Dick Dunn)
  molds on yeast plates: a solution (Pierre Jelenc)
  Malts for Vienna/Octoberfest/Marzen (Harry Covert)
  Attn: James Syniura (Michael Ligas)
  R. Morris rims artical. (ROB THOMAS)
  Info on the "Brew Cap" (John Janowiak)
  Philadelphia brew-pubs (gorman)
  Hordeum Vulgare (fjdobner)
  the beauty of labels ("Nadi Findikli, Ericsson/GE RTP 919-990-7213")
  Lagering Room (Jack Schmidling)
  Price of pico-brewing system (30-Aug-1993 1013 -0400)
  campden tablets (rnapholz)
  Form of Spices for Holiday Brews? (Kevin Schutz)
  Brown Ale Bananas Foster recipe (RBSWEENEY)
  GABF ("Anderso_A")
  aged honey ("TIMOTHY LABERGE")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 11:58:37 EST From: jdecarlo at homebrew.mitre.org Subject: Wort Aeration While I think it is a good idea to do experiments, one of the hardest parts is interpreting them. I have personally come across situations where people were using Wyeast cultures without making starters and observing 48 hour lag times. While I normally advise making starters, I have twice helped people just really aerate the wort and see lag times reduce to half a day or so. So clearly the amount of aeration of the wort can have an incredibly dramatic effect on the time required for the onset of fermentation. For the more gadget-oriented among our community, something like an airstone can make the process much easier (I know people who have gravity-fed metal pipes going from a stainless brewpot from a keg to a stainless fermenter, with no exposure to air along the way--something like this works well for them). For those of us with minimal equipment, it is obvious that there are easier ways to aerate the wort, at least to a sufficient level. But there are so many variables involved. For instance, if you are making a barley wine using an ale yeast and want to ensure sufficient oxygen available to the yeast you might just shake up the fermenter every day for a week or so. Or you might find it easier to have some sort of pump do the work for you. Unfortunately, some people tend to either overenthusiastically adopt or reject new approaches, which can make it more difficult for others to determine the usefulness for themselves. IMHO, the bottom line is that most everyone I have brewed with, including myself, often underpitches the yeast and underoxygenates the wort. But whether you sit down and shake up the fermenter or use a small metal tube with holes drilled in it or a faucet aerator or an airstone with pump probably depends on your environment more than anything else. John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 09:21 PDT From: hbaum at uts.amdahl.com (Michael Hohnbaum) Subject: doppelbock and fruit beers Fermentating way in the "lagering chamber" is an OG 1085 doppelbock (baumerator?) Yeastlab Bavarian Lager is being used at 50 degrees F. I am assuming this yeast is going to poop out with a reasonable amount of sugars remaining due to the alcohol level. If this is correct, then how does one get carbonation when bottling a beer of this style? Will adding the typical priming sugar (1 cup dme) rejuvenate the yeast enough to get some carbonation or are the yeast going to be killed off by the alcohol level? I won't be bottling this batch until October and don't want to wait that long to find out if this will work or not. Any advice would be appreciated. Fruit beers: I've always ignored posts relating to fruit beers with the attitude of why wreck perfectly good beer by adding fruit. Well, my wife and brother have convinced me to attempt a raspberry beer. What I would like to do is brew a large batch of wheat beer, then split off a few gallons to experiment with fruit. That way if I hate the fruit beer, at least I'll have a batch of decent wheat beer for my efforts. So now I'm looking for advice on adding raspberries to a wheat beer. From what little I've read, it appears that adding raspberries to the secondary is one method. If so, how much and how do I prepare them? Also, do I need to adjust the hopping of the beer when adding fruit? If so, less boiling, less finishing, or what? Thanks in advance. BTW: I am experimenting with raspberries due to a ready supply in the backyard, fighting the hops for space. Anyone in the south bay area want to swap for some homegrown Cascades. I've got about half a pound more than I figure to use in the next year. email me if interested. Michael Hohnbaum hbaum at uts.amdahl.com amdahl has no opinions on this topic. These ramblings are mine and mine alone. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 10:59:34 CDT From: Mark S. Hart <hart at hvhp1.mdc.com> Subject: Canadian U-brews Full-Name: Mark S. Hart Salutations, About 1 1/2 weeks ago I read this article in The Wall Street Journal by Larry M. Greenberg. The following is a condensation of that article. I left out a lot of the quotes from patrons, the explanation of the brewing process, etc. for brevity. "It's another night at the U-brew. What laundromats are to clothes, Canada's U-brews are to the thirsty and heavily taxed. Here, for about 90 Canadian dollars, would-be brewmasters legally can whip up a 13 gallon batch of potent suds. In place of commercial breweries' big buildings, elaborate plumbing and computerized chillers, U-brews offer storefront or warehouse space, huge metal pots, plastic tubs, lots of well used bottles, recipes and some know how. Low tech perhaps, but low cost, too. U-brews sidestep federal beer taxes and most provencial taxes. In a land where levies are huge (a six-pack of domestic brew goes for the euquivalent of US $5.35) dodging the taxman is a heady incentive for beer quaffers. The first U-brew, started six years ago, in London, Ontario, with the idea that beer lovers would be happy to rent equipment, make a mess away from home and save money. A culture has grown at the U-brews, where friends gather, usually on week- nights. Most budding brewers say they start because of the savings - then enjoy the camaraderie. There's something of a party atmoshpere at the U-brews as friends get togethor to batch up some brew. However, It's illegal to drink beer at a U-brew, a law perhaps honored as much in the breach as in the observance. Employees at the U-brew will filter and carbonate the beer for customers before patrons return to cap it on the shops bottling machine. Some U-brews even have a microscope to analyze yeast. Some places are gussied up. Many are air-conditioned. Polished wooden floors, copper cooking pots instead of stainless steel, and even hanging plants are found in upscale establish- ments. Others are more rudimentary, with cracked concrete floors. The phenomenon hasn't caught on in the U.S., where beer prices are far lower although Canadian investors recently opened one in Los Angeles, hopin that aficionados may want to make exotic ales." Has anyone out there in HBD land ever visited one of these places. It seems like a good idea, kind of like HBD put in person. It could really help the people who don't have the space or want to purchase equipment. I would be interested to hear the reviews of anyone who has visited/tried a U-brew. Thanks, Mark. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1993 10:21:07 -0600 (CST) From: John Mare <cjohnm at ccit.arizona.edu> Subject: RE: Brewcap I too am puzzled by the brewcap (I have 2 but use them simply as carboy caps). Why would one want to invert the carboy? To drain the sedimented yeast and hop remnants perhaps? What prevents the weight of beer from popping the cap off when the carboy is inverted? Any advice on use of this item will be appreciated. John M. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 10:25:43 PDT From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> Subject: Liberty Hops, Pale Malt Daniel McMahon writes: >I was recently given a recipe for an "excellent Belgian Trippel", >but my local homebrew supply store doesn't have all the exact >ingredients called for. >The two ingredients in question are: (1) Klages malt and >(2) Liberty hops. >Not finding any comparative reference to Klages or Liberty >in Papazian's book, I've decided to substitute Pale malt >and Willamette (5.3%) hops respectively. Pale malt is fine. In a recent conversation I had with Mary Ann Grueber from Breiss Malting, she said that Klages is virtually non-existent these days and has been largely replaced with Harrington, but there is not any discernable difference in brewing qualities. Klages and Harrington are both pale malts, BTW, so you most likely got Harrington. Liberty, OTOH, is nothing at all like Willamette. Liberty was bred as a domestic replacement for Hallertau Mittelfruh (virtual umlaut over the u), the classic "noble" aroma hop from Germany. If you can't find Liberty (or real German Hallertau Mittelfruh or Hersbrucker), then good substitutes are either Mt. Hood or a new hop just released called "Crystal" Crystal used to be known in the trade as CFJ-Hallertau and like Liberty and Mt. Hood were bred as Hallertauer replacements. Also note the domestic "Hallertau" is not very close to the real thing: The three that I have mentioned are much, much better. And of course the real thing (Hallertau) is still the best, but more costly. FYI, Willamette is very similar to Fuggles (from which it was bred) but has a slightly more spicy note than Fuggles. In general you can interchange the two. Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 17:45:00 +0000 From: ron_hall%80 at hp6400.desk.hp.com Subject: Cheap Corny Kegs I recently posted a request for info about a source of cheap kegs, and I was swamped with mail asking me to share what I found out. Well, here it is. I got several responses suggesting DeFalco's of Houston, Texas. They sell used pin-lock kegs for $15 ea, or 3 for $35, plus shipping. I also got several responses saying that The Beverage Co. of Anderson, California has used ball-lock kegs for $22 each or pin-lock kegs for $17 each, and that several people had gotten these with no problems. In both cases, the kegs come "as-is" from the soda distributor, still have pressure in them and therefore are assumed air-tight, and also have residual soda syrup in them. Well, I ordered 3 from DeFalco's, which cost me $35, + $15 shipping, + $6 for three new lid o-rings. They arrived in about a week via UPS, all shrink-wrapped together. They were in good shape, no dents or dings, but with some label scum and REEKING of Coke syrup. They all say "PROPERTY OF THE COCA_COLA COMPANY", but I assume they were procured legally :). I have rinsed them several times and replaced the o-rings, and the smell is almost gone. Hopefully it will not show up in my first kegged brew. I bought a regulator at Steinbart's in Portland for $39, and all the connecting hardware for another $30. I got a 5 lb. CO2 bottle at a local welding supply shop for $65 (permanent lease) and $7.70 for the CO2. The interesting part came when I took it home and hooked it up. The gas bottle sputtered and coughed, lost pressure quickly, and smelled like putrid, skunky beer. I took it back to the welding shop, and they emptied it and found a cup or two of skunky beer in it, and naturally said, "Gee, I've never seen that happen before". Apparently the the previous user had run it dry, and beer had backstreamed into the gas bottle. Lesson of the day is: (1) don't run your bottle dry and leave it connected, and (2) have check valves in your gas lines. Got a new bottle and I'm ready to go. The number for DeFalco's is (713) 523-8154. I don't have the number for the Beverage Co. handy, but it's in the Celebrator Beer News classifieds. Standard disclaimers apply. Ron Hall ron_hall at hp6400.desk.hp.com Corvallis, Oregon Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 13:27 CDT From: fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com Subject: Dead Space A simple question that I have regarding mash tun design. If you use the single or multiple copper pipe manifold arrangement for either a round or rectangular picninc cooler, don't you have a lot of dead space (between and under the pipes) for which a uniform mash temperature would not be possible by stirring or otherwise? Frank ground tiger nut?........................ouch! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 13:42 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Re: Tun size/Klages/Liberty/Fridge Conversion There have been a few questions regarding tun size and also a mention or two about grain depth. I've read (forget which book) that the ideal grain depth is 12 to 18 inches. Now, before everyone starts redesigning their laeuter tuns, I'm willing to bet that the ideal grain bed depth is highly dependent on the type of false bottom or slotted-pipe or easymasher pipe that you have in the bottom. In professional systems, there are debates raging about whether round holes or slots are better and the cross-sectional shape of the holes is debated also. So, I'm just relaying what I've read but if you record the depth of the grain bed on several batches of various size (which is what I'll be doing from now on) perhaps we can get enough data to make some general rules about grain depth versus efficiency, no? ******************** Daniel writes: >The two ingredients in question are: (1) Klages malt and >(2) Liberty hops. > >Not finding any comparative reference to Klages or Liberty >in Papazian's book, I've decided to substitute Pale malt >and Willamette (5.3%) hops respectively. > >What are the special characteristics of Klages malt? >Ditto for Liberty hops. Klages is a 2-row barley strain that *used* to be grown in the U.S. It's replacement is called Harrington. Basically, what you wanted was a good 2-row Pale malt. Liberty is a U.S.-grown variety that was selected because it had qualities similar to Hallertauer Mittelfruh. If you can't get Liberty, Mt. Hood is a close cousin or you could use any number of German-, U.S.- or British Columbian-grown Hallertauer hops. ************************ Kevin asks about fridge conversion: >I cannot for the life of me remember the name of the product that is always >recommended in this list! "Air Temp"? Manuf. and model # would be greatly >appreciated. Hunter AirStat (ask for a window air conditioner thermostat). Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1993 14:16:07 -0500 (CDT) From: WEIX at swmed.edu Subject: resend of yeast faq 1 of 8 (keeping my fingers crossed) Sorry about the first post of this section: sometimes our mailer acts up! Hi to all fellow homebrewers. This is the updated, revised and expanded version of my recent Yeast FAQ. Almost all of this data was plagiarized from somewhere by me or others; however, I have not knowingly used any copyrighted stuff. (I was very careful *not* to check anything for a copyright ;-).) I have altered the focus of some documents to more accurately reflect what I feel to be the interests of the *home*brewer. Some of the information is very basic; some, more technical. I have tried to give a basic introduction to what yeast are, how they affect beer taste, and the proper handling of yeast. Some portions of the following were taken from the Wyeast information circular e-mailed to me by David Adams; the sections pertaining to yeast culturing are adapted from an upcoming book by Dr. Fix. Dr. Fix also provided the section on the proper method of yeast rehydration. Most of the information on the "reputations" of the many yeast strains was collected from the HBD over the years by Doug O'Brien. Many thanks to David Adams, Dr. George Fix, and Doug O'Brien. I would also like to thank Al Korzonas for his helpful suggestions on the characteristics of some yeast strains and for his comments and help in clarifying the sections on propagation and culturing. Thanks also to the many people who made small suggestions or requests for clarification. My name is Patrick Weix, and I am a graduate student in the Genetics and Development program at UT Southwestern at Dallas <weix at swmed.edu>. I hope you find this document useful. N.B. This document is composed of rampant hearsay and rumor. Any attempts to pin anything on me or my co-conspirators will be resisted. If all else fails I will call your boss and ask him why you are reading the HBD at work instead of grinding out the Fitzsimmons contract. What do they pay you for anyway? Don't you have anything better to do?... ============================================================================ INTRODUCTION Yeast are unicellular fungi. Most brewing yeast belong to the genus Saccharomyces. Ale yeast are S. cerevisiae, and lager yeast are S. uvarum (formerly carlsbergerensis). Another type of yeast you may hear mentioned, usually in conjunction with weizens, is S. delbrueckii. You may ask, "If all ale or lager yeast are the same species, why all the fuss?" The fuss is over strain variation. All dogs are the same species, yet no one will ever mistake a Basset Hound for a Doberman (at least not twice :-). Using different strains can add fun and spice to brewing, especially if you have some idea of the differences. I originally put together this guide to catalogue the different affects of different strains. This information is in Section II. Section I outlines the general characteristics of brewing yeast and tries to answer some of the more frequently asked questions about yeast that seem to cycle onto the HBD. Section III explains how the homebrewer can culture and maintain yeast strains in the safety and comfort of his/her own home. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 14:18:00 CST From: Montgomery_John at lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil Subject: degree of extract Hi all, This is my second post to this digest and I meant to include in my first posting a "Thank you all" for all the great information I've absorbed while watching from the sidelines...."Thank you all". :) That said, on to the matter at hand. In the May/June issue of Brewing Techniques, "Spreadsheet for Recipe Design" article, Mr. King shows a column in the spreadsheet labeled Deg of Extract. Below this are numbers corresponding to various grains and their respective extraction (rates?). Eg: DEG OF EXTRACT - --------------------------..... PALE MALT 27 WHEAT 25 etc... . . . I checked my only two references (TCJoH,TCHoH) and didn't see anything that indicated where these numbers came from. Is this something I need to generate myself, ie. make 1 gallon batches with 1 pound of grain and check the gravity? Or are the numbers listed fairly standard and for use in calculations? I always thought the degree of extraction was dependent on the quality of grain, quality of crush, mashing efficiency, etc. and would vary. Can someone please clarify this? Thanks. jbm <montgomery_john at lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil> Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1993 15:34:21 -0500 From: tmgierma at raphael.acpub.duke.edu (Todd Gierman) Subject: yeast mailing/reproduction/flocculation >Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1993 09:45:01 -0400 (EDT) >From: drose at husc.harvard.edu >Subject: Mailing Strains >there is a cheaper alternative to agar slants for mailing strains, and it >works just as well. We routinely send out laboratory strains on filter >paper. Basically, you just put a drop of culture on a ~1 cm square piece >of filter paper (probably any absorbent paper would do) and wrap the >square in a piece of sterile foil. Then pop it into an envelope and send >it off. When it gets to the other side, they drop the paper on a rich >media plate, incubate for a day or so, and the yeast grow up. Dave Rose Dept. of Cellular and Developmental Biology Harvard U. I guess this is a viable alternative commonly employed by researchers. It is mentioned in a section on S.cervesiae research techniques, co-authored by Richard Wobbe of Harvard Medical School, in Current Protocols in Molecular Biology. It looks like a pretty easy and inexpensive way to mail strains, though as Dave points out, it has some drawbacks for the home culturer. As long as the recipient has the means to revive the strain, it may be worth a try. My only concern is that this procedure may select against certain strains present in a multistrain culture. This is a good piece of information, though, and some people may be interested in trying it out. >Date: Thu, 26 Aug 93 11:31 CDT >From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) >I though fission was another name for budding which makes it equally > incorrect as an explanation for flocculation. The other reproductive process > encountered in yeast (but not beer yeast) involves sporulation and sexual > reproduction. We're talking two forms of reproduction here: asexual, achieved by means of either fission or budding and sexual, involving a mating, of sorts, resulting in an exchange of genetic material and the subsequent reassortment of this genetic material to produce spores (more or less). Fission and budding are two different means of achieving the same end: production of two genetically identical cells, where previously there was only one. I can't give you the mechanics of this at the moment, but both processes are distinct from one another. Forgive the use of taxonomy, but Sacchromyces bud, whereas, for example, Schizosacchromyces undergo fission. Neither is an explanation of flocculation. To my understanding, the ability to flocculate is incumbent upon the ability to reassociate (or aggregate) once growth begins to slow. Perhaps Dave Rose can explain this more thoroughly. Whether beer yeasts can sporulate...well your guess is as good as mine: some lab strains of S. cervesiae can. Todd Gierman Dept. of Microbiology Duke University Medical Center Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1993 13:21:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: EXTRACTF For those who have or are about to contacted me about EXTRACTF, I am trying to post it to sierra.stanford.edu, but getting permission to do so is not a trivial task to the uninitiated. If you can put the appropriate person(s) in touch with me I'd appreciate it. Thanks for the interest. Domenick Venezia ZymoGenetics, Inc. venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1993 15:12:00 EST From: "/R=FDACB/R=A1/U=RIDGELY/O=HFM-400/TN=FTS 402-1521/FFN=Bill Ridgely/" at mr.cber.fda.gov Subject: Announcing MASHOUT '93 ANNOUNCING ... MASHOUT '93 The Mid-Atlantic States Homebrewers * * * * 6th Annual Campout - To Be Held September 10-12, 1993 in Rocky Gap (near Cumberland), MD Fun for the Whole Family! - Including: - Saturday dinner & Sunday breakfast, courtesy of the BURP Homebrew Club - Vienna/Oktoberfest Beer Competition - Water sports at Rocky Gap Lake - Hiking, biking, carousing, game playing, finger pointing, eating, drinking, etc - Lots of FREE BEER! (Donations of homebrew are most welcome) Directions: From Washington, DC, head west on I-270/I-70. Just past Hancock, MD, bear left onto I-68 toward Cumberland. Go past the town of Flintstone, up & over Martin Mountain. Watch for signs for Rocky Gap Park and the Pleasant Valley/ Rocky Gap interchange. Rocky Gap Lake will be on the right. At the interchange, go left over the bridge all the way to the end (not far) and turn left - this should be the 2nd road. Head back up the mountain and turn right at the 1st road, Breakneck Road. Follow Breakneck until you're just past the mountaintop. Turn right at the 2nd driveway past the mountaintop. A sign will be posted to help you identify it. The camping area is right on top of the mountain at the end of the driveway. What to Bring: Food (for meals not provided by BURP), water (there is none on the mountain top), homebrew, camping gear, musical instruments, swimwear, bicycles, flying toys, all the other usual stuff you'll need for a weekend of camping. For further info, please e-mail to the address below. BURP would appreciate a response from those interested so we can determine how much food to buy (We promise a Special Treat for Saturday dinner). See y'all there! Bill Bill Ridgely (Brewer, Patriot, Bicyclist) __o ridgely at a1.cber.fda.gov -\<, ridgely at cber.cber.fda.gov ...O/ O... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 16:17:24 EST From: Ulick Stafford <ulick at beethoven.helios.nd.edu> Subject: pronunciation of trub In hbd 1210 Al Korz etc. lists the pronunciation of many brewing terms. I for one have never liked the pronunciation troob for trub. It is such a fruity word. Thankfully, it is also incorrect. While Websters unabridged dictionary lists the pronunciation as troob or the rugged trub, both are incorrect if one uses the German pronunciation. There is still doubt as Websters gave two spellings, trub and trueb as the German speelling for the word meaning dirt or haze or whatever. These would be pronounced approximately troop and trip. __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 | ulick at darwin.cc.nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 93 14:31:12 PDT From: MRS1%CRPTech%DCPP at cts27.comp.pge.com Subject: list Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1993 19:17:21 -0400 (EDT) From: waltman at BIX.com Subject: Nigerian Guinness FYI, from the August 21, 1993 issue of The Economist (in a survey of Nigeria): "Guinness, for example, has developed a stout brewed from malt extracted from millet and sorghum, because of the [Nigerian] government's import ban on barley malt. It looks the same, tastes different, and has been a smash, helping make Nigeria Guinness's third-biggest market, after Ireland and Britain." I guess necessity is the mother of invention. Anybody ever tasted Nigerian Guiness or brewed with millet malt? Inquiring minds want to know! Fred Waltman Marina del Rey, CA waltman at bix.com Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Aug 93 20:56:24 MDT (Sat) From: rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: green chile beer again (notes on Coopersmith's "Sigda's") A late addition to the chile-in-beer discussion, but I got some recipe- like info. A couple of folks had already mentioned Coopersmith's in Ft Collins, CO, which makes "Sigda's Green Chili [sic] Beer". I think Sigda's is an excellent beer. The chile and beer flavors blend nicely. It's got just the right amount of bite--not enough to hurt, nor to make it the sole province of chile aficionados, but definitely enough to leave no doubt that it's a chile beer. More importantly, it's got a real character of the chiles. Compared to Cave Creek, I'd take this any day. The basic recipe is a pale ale, only light malt (no crystal, etc.), and lightly hopped. Ummm, lessee...they're using English malts. Mash is a single infusion; don't remember temperatures. During fermentation, they add chopped green chiles of the sort folks commonly call "Anaheim". (They get them frozen in bulk.) They use 20 lb "mild" and 30 lb "hot" in an 8 bbl batch. Keep in mind that the "mild" and "hot" here are relative to Anaheims, which are all down toward the mild end of the scale. The chiles are in hop bags in the fermenter. Anyway, that's just for the fermentation...when they transfer to the aging/serving tank, they remove the Anaheims and add 2 lb of chopped serranos for the aging period. This beer is served in-house only, directly from the aging tanks. That is, none of it is bottled, although you can buy it by the jug to take home. It's rather cloudy; they don't make much of an attempt to clarify it. (They fine, but don't filter, their beers.) Just for perspective--since the 8 bbl batch size is a bit awkward for home brewing:-): It's about equivalent to a pound of Anaheims and somewhat over half an ounce of serranos for a five-gallon batch. (Remember, the weights refer to prepared [peeled/seeded] chiles.) It would be interesting to see whether a beer like Sigda's could be bottled and kept for a while. I have my doubts; I suspect that the chile taste would fade or mutate somehow. I'd also guess that if it could be success- fully fined or filtered, you'd lose a lot of the character. [and while I'm at it, a plug: If you have occasion to pass through Ft Collins, Coopersmith's is well worth a visit. In addition to the chile beer (which seems to be regularly available) they'll have half a dozen others on tap, including some unusual ones: I caught the tail end of their raspberry ale today. There was a blueberry wheat beer in a fermenter so I suspect that will be available in another two or three weeks. They'll also give you a tour of the brewery by someone knowledgable if you're there on a Saturday afternoon. I hate to admit it...Ft Collins and Boulder are similar-size towns with four breweries each, but Ft Collins brews easily win on variety and interest.] --- Dick Dunn rcd at eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado USA ...Simpler is better. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 93 11:55:18 EDT From: Pierre Jelenc <rcpj at panix.com> Subject: molds on yeast plates: a solution A while back, when I was away on vacation, there was a discussion of mold contamination of yeast plate cultures. Since there hasn't been a definitive solution yet (I'm not quite caught up though), let me suggest what we resort to for the protection of plates that must be kept open for long period in our lab: >From 0.5 to 1% sodium propionate in the medium will suppress practically all molds, without affecting the growth or viability of yeasts. The propionate can be either added before autoclaving, in which case the medium will turn cloudy, or as a sterile solution just before pouring the plates, in which case the medium will stay clear. There is no growth difference in either case. While not reinheitgebotmaessig, propionate is FDA-(or USDA-?)approved to prevent molds on foodstuffs. Pierre Pierre Jelenc rcpj at panix.com Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Aug 93 14:25:45 EDT From: Harry Covert <73232.167 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Malts for Vienna/Octoberfest/Marzen I just read George and Laurie Fix's book 'Marzen/Oktoberfest/Vienna' and I recommend it to any other 'Fest beer fans out there. In the recipes, though, they call for "German Light Crystal Malt, German Dark Crystal Malt and English (20 and 120 degree) Caramel Malt". Our local club is making a large buy of De Wolf-Cosyns Belgian Malts and am wondering how their Cara-Vienne and Cara-Munich could substitute for the German light and dark crystal. Any other good and available malts that would make a good substitution? Also, how about using all Munich Malt as the base of a 'Fest? What hop(s) and how much are preferred for this style? Any other helpful comments on making a championship 'Fest? TIA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1993 14:39:13 -0400 (EDT) From: Michael Ligas <ligas at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca> Subject: Attn: James Syniura Sorry to use hbd bandwidth for a personal mailing but this appears to be my only mechanism to reach James. James: I've sent you CABA information twice but it keeps getting bounced back to me. Apparently your host is unreachable. Send me your snail-mail address and I'll mail off some stuff to you. Take care. - Mike - Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 93 12:32:16 MET DST From: ROB THOMAS <THOMASR at EZRZ1.vmsmail.ethz.ch> Subject: R. Morris rims artical. Hello again brewers, Without even waiting for an answer to my previous question about brewcaps, I going to ask a second: Does anyone out there have a copy of Rodney Morris' RIMS article from the Maltose Falcon news letter? And if so, would they also happen to have an "electronic" version they could send me? I've read the rims summary from sierra.stanford.edu, but unfortunately all the brewers who submitted their designs, described the differences between their setups and Morris'. Hence, I'm still in the dark as to the exact setup. ALTERNATIVELY, is there a more internationally available source of such a full description? Happy brewing, Rob. Thomas. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 93 08:39:22 -0400 From: jsqr at sgi37.wwb.noaa.gov (John Janowiak) Subject: Info on the "Brew Cap" Regarding the "Brew Cap" >From: ROB THOMAS <THOMASR at EZRZ1.vmsmail.ethz.ch> >Subject: BrewCaps (tm?): how and why? >Hello all, >Could someone enlighten me on the purpose and use of the brew cap? >All I know (well, suspect) is that it is used on a carboy, which is >then turned upside down. >If this is a really obvious question please email me privately. >By the way, I've never seen one either, so a description might be >useful. >Isn't the quest for knowledge a terrible thing! >Rob Thomas. The 2-3 advantages (perhaps there are more) of this system are: 1. Since the carboy is placed upside down, you can drain off the trub as it settles in the neck of the carboy. 2. You can collect the spent yeast in the same manner. Thus, you can proceed with secondary fermentation in the same carboy & avoid having to rack to another (avoiding possible contamination & oxidation). 3. The collected yeast can be captured in a reasonably sanitary manner & repitched if you keep it clean & healthy. The disadvantages that I'm aware of are: 1. Forget lagers unless you have a walk-in refer - since the carboy must be upside down, it must be mounted on a stand of some sort therefore the whole mess will be too tall to fit in a refer. 2. SInce the cap is on the bottom, it seems difficult to dry hop or add finings (although I think the manufacturer gives some info on how to do this). 3. Although small (probably) there is a risk that if the blow-off tubes get clogged, since the cap can't pop off, the carboy may burst. John Janowiak Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 93 09:00:24 EDT From: gorman at aol.com Subject: Philadelphia brew-pubs Hello, I'd appreciate any comments on the beer and food in the Philadelphia brew-pubs via private email. TIA Bill Gorman America Online Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 93 08:01 CDT From: fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com Subject: Hordeum Vulgare Since I do not have access the judgenet yet, I have a comment on the study guide that was issued and held on file in the archives and called beerjudgeguide. A small point but in the first section under grains, Hordeum Vulgare is identified as 6-row barley. As I have researched under other material (including Jackson's New World Guide...) Hordeum Vulgare is in fact 2 row barley. N'est pas? Frank Dobner decoction?...........ouch again! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1993 15:13:15 +0200 From: "Nadi Findikli, Ericsson/GE RTP 919-990-7213" Subject: the beauty of labels visual presentation is a part of beer as it is of any other food. that is why we all get so excited when we hit the right shade of amber or just a tint of red, or whatever turns you on. labels are part of the presentation of beer. so what if it takes a bit longer to prepare bottles, it is part of the process. you'll feel better when you present a bottle that looks as nice as the beer in it tastes. on a technical note, if you have registration problems with labels prepared on a word processor, use a drawing or publishing program. these pay much more attention to dimensions than word processors, which tend to stretch things to fit the text. publishers also make graphics, border text etc easier to manage. i say don't be content with writing the name of your beer on the bottle. make something worth the pain of cleaning labels off bottles. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- | Nadi Findikli .. there is a pleasure sure | | Ericsson/GE, RTP in being mad, | | findikli at egertp.ericsson.se `--' which none but madmen know | | 919-990-7213 Dryden, The Spanish Friar, II,i | -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 93 09:02 CDT From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Lagering Room Although I like my new "lagering room" (chest freezer/Airstat) a lot and I probably will never make ale again, there was one problem that was bugging me. The 40F low end temp should be adequate for fermenting and serving beer but it just never seemed quite cold enough without using pre-chilled glasses. After doing a little judicious temp measuring, I learned that the air temperature varies from 5 to 10 degrees above the actual beer temp. To determine your own delta, put a thermometer in a glass containing a pint or more of water and watch it for a few days. I dug up the article by Mike Kenny on modifying the Hunter for lower temps and decided to give it a try. Upon opening the unit, I "discovered" a temp cal pot but found this had only about a two degree range and it was already in the middle of that. Mike explains how to calculate (Ohms Law) the exact resistance for any temp, along with adding a switch to disable the mod. I took the Schmidling way and simply soldered a 150K resistor across the sensor lead terminals and got lucky. When programmed for 40F, the temp in the pint of water is exactly 40F now. The air temp is about 35F but I just ignore that and the beer temp is just the way I like it. It is a very simple mod and requires nothing more than removing two screws and soldering the resistor to very accessible terminals. Getting it back together takes a little "feel" because the battery terminals have to be fitted back into their connector but anyone with a little more finesse than a gorilla should be able to do it. Thanks Mike. (mkenny at bcm1g01.attmail.com for details) js Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 93 07:16:31 PDT From: 30-Aug-1993 1013 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> Subject: Price of pico-brewing system >Date: Thu, 26 Aug 93 10:46:34 EDT >From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu >Subject: pico-Brewery [...] >* The price! What is the price? Also, what kind of square footage do you need to set this system up? Is it all stainless steel? thanks JC FERGUSON Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 93 10:24:09 EDT From: rnapholz at PICA.ARMY.MIL Subject: campden tablets hello all I just purchased some capmden tablet the label read 16 tablets per quart can this be right?? any suggestions do i add these to the boil, primary or secondary thanks rob Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1993 09:27:35 MDT From: Kevin Schutz <kschutz at atmel.com> Subject: Form of Spices for Holiday Brews? Hello All! With Fall just around the corner, thoughts have been turning toward brewing up some holiday brews. I wanted to check with all my fellow brewers to see if anyone has had any experiences with choosing the appropriate forms of spices to include in batches. For example, is it better to use whole cloves or ground cloves, anise seed or anise extract? I'm interested in using most of the easily available spices (Anise, Cardimon, Cinnamon, Clove, Ginger, & Nutmeg come immediately to mind). I'd also be interested in suggested amounts of various spices to start with. I'll probably turn a quick 2.5 gal trial batch within the next week and then move up to 5 gals. Thanks in advance for your help! If I get alot of responses, I'll catalog the responses and post them. Kevin Schutz Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1993 11:03:34 -0600 (CST) From: RBSWEENEY at memstvx1.memst.edu Subject: Brown Ale Bananas Foster recipe Here's an interesting little recipe I tried recently with pretty good results: Brown Ale Bananas Foster 3/4 lb British crystal malt - 20 Lovibond 6 lbs Pale 6-row 3 oz Southern Country New Orleans Bananas Foster mix* 1/4 lb Chocolate malt 1/2 cup Grandma's mild molasses *- includes brown sugar, sugar, spice, natural and artificial flavoring: (orange, lemon, banana, rum flavor, food starch modified and malto dextrin) caramel color, silicon dioxide 1 oz Kent Goldings plugs (4.7% alpha) - 60 min in boil 1 oz Kent Goldings plugs (4.7% alpha) - 5 min in boil 2 tablespoons Irish Moss - 15 min in boil Wyeast #1007 (German Ale) - repitched 11 teaspoons slurry Mashed all grains in 2.5 gal of 156 water for 90 min (w/ 1/2 tsp gypsum), sparged with 4.5 gal of 170 water (w/ 1/2 tsp gypsum), added molasses and Bananas Foster mix and boiled 75 min. (the brewpot smelled like rum and fruit while it was boiling, something like a fruitcake). Chilled wort with immersion chiller for 10-15 min., racked to carboy and pitched yeast. Left beer in primary four days at around 70 degrees, then racked to secondary and added 1/2 oz of gelatin finings and kegged three days later using forced carbonation. Original gravity - 1.042 (78.4% extraction efficiency; if yours is generally different adjust the recipe accordingly) Final gravity - 1.009 Alcohol: 3.4% by weight, 4.2% by volume Color Units/Gal - 25.6 (using calculation described by Dave Miller in Brewing the World's Great Beers) I have made a few previous brown ales but this was absolutely the best. My experience with commercial brown ales is limited to Newcastle and I'm not one of its biggest fans--no flavor to speak of, IMO. This concoction on the other hand has flavor to spare plus a unique and to my mind wonderful aroma, kind of a caramel/toffee/rum combination. Its great even at room temp. As always, brewer beware, your taste may vary. Bob Sweeney Department of Management Information Systems Memphis State University Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Aug 93 08:06:26 EST From: "Anderso_A" <Anderso_A at hq.navsea.navy.mil> Subject: GABF Message Creation Date was at 30-AUG-1993 12:16:00 Greetings, I'll be joining a few friends out in Denver this year to finally partake of the GABF. (I just want to see what Jim Koch will offer for my vote for "People's Choice".) Since I've not spent any time in the Denver area, nor have I been to a GABF before I wish to ask a copule questions: 1. Do I need to buy my tickets to the Beer Festival in advance? Do they ever sell out of tickets? 2. When I'm tired of the Beer Festival and want to go somewhere completely different (i.e. a pub), where should I go? I've read the "On Tap" books for places in Denver as well as Ft. Collins, but those books quickly get out of date. I look to the HBD world for guidance. Cheers, Andy A Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Aug 93 15:09:00 EST From: "TIMOTHY LABERGE" <LABERGET at gar.union.edu> Subject: aged honey I was talking with a friend the other about mead; he told me that some German bakers traditionally use honey that has been aged for periods of at least a year. The idea is that aged honey has a more intense flavor. Is there any precedent for the use of aged honey in the making of mead or mead ale? Tim LaBerge Union College Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1215, 08/31/93