HOMEBREW Digest #1252 Thu 21 October 1993

Digest #1251 Digest #1253

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: counter pressure filler (was Kegging systems) (mcdcup!tellabs.com!don)
  Yeast viability ("Bob Jones")
  beer nuts? (Paul Selkirk)
  My UK trip ("Bob Jones")
  hot priming (Carl Howes)
  Clean it up (lyons)
  Honey instead of sugar. (Davin Slade)
  Re: hot priming (Lynn Kerby)
  Slant/plate recipes (Norman Farrell)
  Beer drinks Belgian style ("Phillip Seitz")
  Beer hunting in Belgium, Part 1: Rochefort ("Phillip Seitz")
  Re: yeast pitching/filters/names (Jim Busch)
  Beer in the appropriate container thread... (EZIMMERM)
  Aluminum for sparge water heating? (Jane M Slipp)
  Re: Beer Drinks (Matt F. Cary)
  beer drinks ("Jeff M. Michalski, MD")
  hot priming solution (Ted Manahan)
  Hot Priming/Keg Request (DJM1)
  beer dinks & drinks (David Atkins)
  regional brewing publications (Kip Damrow)
  Distillation and the home-brewer ("John C. Post")
  Carbonation and Filtration (David Pike)
  lemon beer/yeast nutrient ("Daniel F McConnell")
  Re: beer drinks (Kyle Hammon)
  beer drinks: velvet hammer (Paul Boor)
  Kegging FAQ delayed slightly (Dion Hollenbeck)
  mashout (chris campanelli)
  barleywine yeast ("Jeff M. Michalski, MD")
  lauter tun designs/amylase/Belgian yeasts (korz)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Oct 93 12:57:23 CDT From: hplabs!mcdcup!tellabs.com!don Subject: Re: counter pressure filler (was Kegging systems) > >I got a counter pressure filler from Benjamine Machine Products that >seems to work well. I posted the same question to the net, also asking >for comments on the Foxx CPF. The general consensus was that the Foxx >product was not well made, and that the BMP CPF was a good buy. I got >one, used it, and had a problem with it leaking when the liquid valve >was closed. Made for quite a mess until I got the process down. I called >BMP and asked about it, and the guy said it was unusual, but not unheard >of, to have a problem with the valve seat. He said to take it off, send >it back, and if there was a problem with it he would replace it. When I >went to take it off I found that it was loose to start with. I'm thinking >that this may have caused the problem, but I won't have a chance to check >it out until next week. BTW, the BMP CPF was supposedly designed by >Micah Millspaw who, if you are a long time reader of the HBD, you recognize >his name. If you don't, he was the source of some very good information and >is now the head brewer at some place in California (I think) Thanks for the mini-review. > >BMP has ads in most (including the latest) issues of Zymurgy. If you >don't have access to it, let me know and I'll dig it up for you. Price >was about $55 with shipping. I don't have a sub. to Zymurgy but I do receive Brewing Techniques. I'll check that tonight although the name does'ent sound familiar at all. If you have the address or someone else has it, could you please email it to me??? Actually it may be worth posting since others may also be interested. > >BTW Don, I tried to email directly to you, but my mailer daemon doesn't >recognize all those !'s in your address. If you have an address that is >in internet format you might add it to your signature. Normally the short version is included in my .signature file but I have not found a way to include it in my posts to HBD. I will try to put this in manually until I figure a better way to do this. Sorry about that... don don at tellabs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1993 13:02:46 -0700 (PDT) From: "Bob Jones" <bjones at novax.llnl.gov> Subject: Yeast viability I'm interested in obtaining info on yeast viability. Given a freshly grown up yeast population, what does the viability curve look like vs time? What does the curve look like? Does the viability start to drop right after flocculation? I'm sure there are a lot of factors that effect the viability like temp. etc. I would be interested in any info. out there. Thanks, Bob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 93 16:10:22 -0400 From: paul at ftp.com (Paul Selkirk) Subject: beer nuts? The other day, while roasting some hickory nuts from my neighbor's tree, I got to wondering if anyone ever brewed with nuts. Would you mash the nuts (lots of starch in there), or "dry-nut" a more conventional beer? What kind of nuts would be good? The walnut/pecan/hickory family all taste like they've got a lot of tannins, so they might not be appropriate. Maybe almonds, filberts, brazil nuts... (I can see it now - Rainforest Crunch Beer!) I've been reading the HBD since the beginning of the year, plus most of last year's back issues, and I've seen some...unusual...ideas, but I don't recall anything of this sort. What say ye? paul Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1993 13:24:34 -0700 (PDT) From: "Bob Jones" <bjones at novax.llnl.gov> Subject: My UK trip Well I'm back from 3 weeks of pub hoppin in England, Wales and Scotland. I got to tour 4 brewerys, Young's, Sam Smith's, Calandonion and Traquir House (it was under reconstruction). The brewerys were all very nice and seemed to bend the rules more than a bit when I mentioned I was a brewer from the states. I came back with 4 yeast samples and am looking forward to brewing some real ales. A few thoughts on things I was surprised about in the UK. * I expected cellar temp beer and low carbonation. The real ales are cellar temp (55 deg f) and DEAD flat. The ales may have a head if pulled via a sparkler on the beer engines. * All the beers were extremely small gravity compared to our beers here in the states. * Your average pub goer will consume 8-10 or more pints a night. They expect to drink to a glow and keep the glow, not pass out from alcohol. * All the beers seemed much more subtle than I expected. There was malt and hops, but with the zero gas levels, they seemed much smaller than our ales here in the states. * An Imperial pint was about $2.25. * The Brits are very fussy about both clarity and a good pour. The fill damn well better be to the top and they don't want any haze. All the beers were extremely clear. I expected some floaters, I say NONE. * I really got use to the no gas, small gravity, cellar temp beers. I could drink 3-4 pints and was ready for more. We all make such a big deal out of carbonation in our finished product and would probably throw out a batch that had a gravity of 1038. Well relax! I'm looking forward to brewing a real ale (I won't however vent to the atmosphere). I will keep the gravity very low, the flavor up and serve it cool. * On a negative note, smoking is not declining in the pub scene. It was a real challenge to find a corner where I could smell something other than cigarette smoke. * I attended a beer festival in Bedford that had 53 real ales on. The beers were in the center of the room on a scafolding made of steel pipes and wood planks. The kegs had a piece of muslin cloth that was damp over them and a fan was blowing across them. How's that for room temp? The kegs all just gravity drained into the tasters mug. Quit a difference from our tasting, eh? Just a few thoughts, hope you enjoyed them. I sure did enjoy experiencing them. Bob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 93 16:07:30 EDT From: sdlsb.dnet!73410%sdlcc at swlvx2.msd.ray.com (Carl Howes) Subject: hot priming Bart writes in HBD1249: >When I prime my fermented beer with corn sugar, I usually cool the >priming solution to 70F with an ice bath before mixing with the beer. >[snip] >I've always thought that this step is probably not necessary... >[snip] I just sampled a bottle of my latest batch (a porter) last night and could detect no ill effects from using the primer while hot (~150F) due to a lack of patience while cooling it. A bit of off flavor from poor bottle rinsing, but that's another story (my wife also had one - no off flavor). >Brewing equipment destroyed while typing this message : 0 Congratulations on your conservation of brewing equipment!! ;-) Carl Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 93 16:06:09 EDT From: lyons%adc1 at swlvx2.msd.ray.com Subject: Clean it up > " I have found that it is much easier to fake an > orgasm than to pretend to like basketball. " I'm not clear if this implies that someone has a problem with basketball or with finding the right man? It may have appeared cute the first time it was posted, but please keep in mind that this type of material has little to do with the subject of beer and is offensive to some folk. I have also been guilty of making crude remarks, but have learned that a public forum is not proper place. Please clean it up. Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1993 11:27:35 GMT+1100 From: Davin Slade <10692851 at eng2.eng.monash.edu.au> Subject: Honey instead of sugar. Is it possible to use honey instead of cane sugar or dextrose. If so how much honey is equivalent to 1 kg of sugar. What is a good beer to use honey in. - ------------------------------------------------------------ Davin Slade, 4th Year Civil Engineering, Monash Uni, Oz 10692851 at eng2.eng.monash.edu.au or baldrick at yoyo.cc.monash.edu.au - ------------------------------------------------------------ "It was georgiousness and georgosity in the flesh" Alexander de Large, A Clockwork Orange Anthony Burgess, 1966, Stanley Kubrik, 1971 - ------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 93 23:30 PDT From: lfk at veritas.com (Lynn Kerby) Subject: Re: hot priming >I've always thought that this step is probably not necessary since the >thermal mass of 1 pint of 200F sugar water is nothing compared with 5 >gallons at 70F. So what if I zap a few yeast cells on the initial contact ? >They don't have very good lawyers anyway. > >I've never had the guts to actually risk a batch with this hot combination >experiment. Has anyone else done this successfully ? I'd like to >simplify my process. Be bold, fry the little buggers! I don't bottle much anymore (kegs are great), but I got tired of waiting for the priming solutions to cool back when I did bottle. I tried an experiment where the priming solution was well over 100F and it worked fine. Next batch it went in nearly boiling and guess what, no carbonation whatsoever. Fooled you! It worked fine, as you have guessed, the thermal mass of 1 cup of boiling sugar solution has very little effect on the thermal mass of 5 gallons of beer. Your mileage may vary, but if I ever have a need to bottle an entire batch, I certainly wouldn't worry about killing the first few 100 million yeast cells. >Brewing equipment destroyed while typing this message : 0 How *does* he do it? :-) Lynn Kerby lfk at veritas.com Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Oct 1993 8:55:22 EST From: ESPINOS0 at ksg1.harvard.edu Subject: Please sign me off: Manolo Espinosa espinos0 at ksg1.harvard.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 07:54:05 CDT From: nfarrell at ppco.com (Norman Farrell) Subject: Slant/plate recipes Okay, all you yeast bankers out there in HDB land, a fellow club member without HBD access has asked me to pose a question on making slants and plates for yeast culturing at home. Tim would like to know what recipe is used by the Brewers Resource people for their slants (how 'bout it Dr. Raines)??? Failing that, he would settle for reccomendations from other successful yeast bankers. If this is covered in a FAQ, please let me know and I will gladly fetch it. Tim thanks you and I thank you, we all thank you. Private email is okay. BTW I took 6 pages of notes from George Fix's talk at the Dixie Cup last weekend. I am writing them up in the form of a summary for a club newsletter and would gladly post them if there was interest (and if George Fix doesn't send me email telling me that I better not). The topic was the use of fining agents and is supposed to be included in his new book. Any interest? Regards, Norman (nfarrell at ppco.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 08:53:06 -0400 From: "Phillip Seitz" <p00644 at psilink.com> Subject: Beer drinks Belgian style Enough with these wimpy British beer drinks. My friend Olivier DeCamp (who should have posted this himself) reports enjoying a nice Chimay Flambee on cool evenings in Belgium. This consists of Chimay mixed with high octane whiskey, set aflame. (Did I get that right, Oli?) Presumably you wait for the flames to die out before drinking, but the heat they generate warms the drink nicely. Sounds to me like you hug bowl for a while afterward, too. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 09:07:48 -0400 From: "Phillip Seitz" <p00644 at psilink.com> Subject: Beer hunting in Belgium, Part 1: Rochefort Beer Hunting in Belgium: Part 1 of 7 Rochefort (Abbaye de Notre Dame de St. Remy) (by Jim Busch: BUSCH at DAACDEV1.STX.COM) Through an amazing stroke of luck and Phil Seitz's wealth of connections in Belgium circles, we were able to arrange a tour of this monastery. It turns out that one of Phil's friends is the son of the man who assesses brewing taxes for the Rochfort region, and as a special favor to his father--who is retiring--the monks allowed our friend to bring several guests for a very rare look inside the monastery. Rochefort is located a modest drive south from Namur. The sign next to the door of the abbey reads "No Visitors." We knocked and were greeted by a classic brother of the order, dressed in the traditional robes, sandals and cane, and hunched over with the burden of his years. We were led to a spartan reception/waiting area where the silence of the monastery began to hang on us. A short while later, head brewer Brother Antoine greeted us and we followed him to the brewery. The brewery occupies a corner of the monastery, in a tall room roughly 20 meters long. Two sparkling traditional copper "onion dome" kettles were situated on the lower area, while another traditional copper lauter tun was situated on the far end of the room on a platform 2 meters above the main floor. The area was illuminated by tall stained glass windows, some of which sported hanging ivy plants. A large cross was on one wall. The traditional copper grant was embedded into the tiled platform wall, and the brewer still manually operates the grant handles to equalize the runoff rate from the lauter tun. Inside the vessels were a slew of mechanical devices; the normal rakes and sparge arms in the lauter tun, but lots of probes and gadgets in the kettle. The second kettle was originally used to produce a table beer--a very normal practice at breweries that make high gravity beers, but a practice that is becoming less common. It is no longer used except to heat water (talk about wasted equipment!). When lautering, all the original mash water is allowed to drain from the mash, then additional water is added. The table beer, when it was made, came from later runnings off the mash. Three beers are produced at the monastery, and are named for their strength in Belgian degrees: 6 (7.5% ABV); 8 (9.2% ABV); and 10 (11.3% ABV). We were also told that all three beers originate from identical mash bills (that is, the exact same mix and amount of malt), the difference being in the quantity of candi sugar added to the kettle. The mash bill consists of CaraVienna and Pils malts, with maize being added as an adjunct. Ground coriander is added to the kettle in addition to pulverized whole hops, Styrian Goldings for kettle hops, Hersbruker Hallertau for finish. This is the first brewery I have ever been to that goes to the trouble of using whole noble hops and then pulverizes them prior to addition to the kettle. This is done to ease the centrifuging of the cast out wort. The original gravities of the three beers are: 17P, 20P and 25P. The cast out wort is passed through the SS centrifuge, then a plate heat exchanger, and then is dosed with a two-strain yeast from a small cylindro-conical yeast tank. The fermentation is done in what appears to be a tiled open fermenter that was modified by the addition of a closed SS top. The top looked to be quite involved, with piping and controls everywhere. The two fermenters occupied a relatively small room. After primary fermentation, the beer is filtered using a Diatomatous Earth filter (DE or Kieselgur filter) and then racked into maturation tanks. A brief conditioning period is followed by the addition of priming sugar and three days later bottling is done. The bottles are steam cleaned and sterilized before being filled in a very large Krones bottling line. Every piece of equipment in this brewery was of high quality, well engineered and of greater capacity than what appeared to be required. These monks certainly built it right. Rochefort beers are some of the harder-to-find Trappist beers even in Belgium, and the monastery purposefully perpetuates this. The brewing schedule is always the same. They only brew 3 days a week. The brewing schedule varies little; 2 weeks of Rochefort 8 (6 days), and 1 week of Rochefort 10 (3 days). A week of Rochfort 6 (3 days) is thrown in from time to time. It is no wonder that the '8' is the most prevalent beer of the three. It was the '8' that Brother Antoine opened for us in his study. As Michael Jackson has noted, the study is a special place, adorned by literally hundreds of beer steins from brewmasters that have visited, many from great breweries in Germany. Brother Antoine himself is a bit special in that he seemed genuinely amicable to us and did not typify the Trappist stereotype monk. He dressed quite plain and normal, not in the robes of his other monks. There was even a plastic Jesus with flickering light on a shelf. The beer was fantastic. The really remarkable thing about all of the Rochefort beers is the art of creating a significant amount of alcohol but keeping the flavor perceptions several percent lower than the actual alcohol. This is not an easy feat. Brother Antoine is one of 24 monks that live in the spacious monastery. Economically, sales of the beer support the monastery and its projects. Even at three days a week of brewing, the monastery is making boatloads of money. Brother Antoine proudly told us of the newly renovated Chapel and we stopped there after our Rochefort 8's were consumed. The high cathedral ceiling and walls are made from the stone blocks of old farmhouses in the Loire Valley, and the high narrow windows are filled not with glass but with thin slabs of alabaster. The pews were being hand made and carved by local craftsmen as we were there, and the column capitals had also been elaborately carved. The floor of the entrance area is adorned with a very large circular marble inlay. The marble was cut into arcs and inlaid and polished. All of this was being paid for by the brewery. Since it was the end of a work day, the workers were relaxing with a case of Rochefort 8! It was quite a sight. According to Brother Antoine, the other Trappist breweries have broader financial responsibilities. In addition to supporting itself, Chimay also pays the expenses for four other monasteries or convents, and Brother Antoine believes Chimay began brewing years ago to provide jobs and economic development to the people in its region. This puts their high production into context. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1993 10:51:09 -0500 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Re: yeast pitching/filters/names > Date: Fri, 15 Oct 93 15:52:38 EDT" > From: Gary S. Kuyat <gsk at sagan.bellcore.com> > Subject: 5/2/.5 micron filters > Full-Name: Gary S. Kuyat > > 5 micron: > Takes out big chunks, like hop particles. No effect in flavor, no effect in > body, no effect in chill haze. Other than as a pre-filter 5 mic. seems pretty > useless. > > 2 micron: > This seems to be the best all around. Removes yeast. Some very slight loss of > body. Clears and "crispens" beer taste. Almost have to say "why wouldn't you > run all your beer through this?" (that is if you're kegging!) Don't try .5 ucronm... > Removes yeast, some body and if your beer is very cold when you filter, this > removes chill haze! Kinda leaves your beer with a "thin" mouth feel. If you > ------------------------------ What kind of filters are you using, what is thier efficiency rating and what are they manufactured from? All of these factors will effect filtering. Also, how fast (psi) so you push the beer from keg to keg, and do you condition it prior to filtering? > ------------------------------ > Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1993 09:51:35 -0700 (PDT) > From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> > Subject: Yeast nutrients > same conditions then assayed them for total cell counts. The YNB starter > had a cell density 10 times (!) of the other. The numbers worked out to > 10 x 10**10 cells/liter. I seem to remember an optimal pitch for 5 gallons > is 4 x 10**10 cells so using YNB you could pitch with a pint and get an > optimal cell count. Usually, cell counts are expressed in cells/ml, so the above numbers look more impressive than they actually are. 4 million cells/ml is underpitching, even for ales, although not by much (many UK ale brewers pitch between 5-10 millon cells/ml). For lagers, it is 1 million cells/ml/degree plato. So for a 12P lager, pitch 12 million cells/ml. For a 17P lager, use at least 17 million cells/ml, and as it goes even higher, up the density. The 10 million/ml is a good pitching rate for most regular beers. If you have access to thick slurry, pitch 1 lb per BBL of wort. > ------------------------------ > Date: Mon, 18 Oct 93 09:15:49 -0400 > From: "Phillip Seitz" <p00644 at psilink.com> > Subject: Beer hunting in Belgium: Introduction > > on beer and brewing in Belgium, based primarily on research > conducted by Jim Bush and myself during a visit this past summer. ^^^^^^ Who is this guy ???:-) Good brewing, Jim Busch DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1993 08:50:17 -0600 (MDT) From: EZIMMERM at UWYO.EDU Subject: Beer in the appropriate container thread... Salutations! When reading that little thread on the 'right' contianer for each beer I realized we had neglected 'lawnmower beer' and thought it should be suggested we use (yep, you guessed it) a YARD glass! Gene in Laramie p.s. please forgive the bad pun, but I couldn't resist this one... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1993 10:51:50 -0400 (EDT) From: Jane M Slipp <jmsst58+ at pitt.edu> Subject: Aluminum for sparge water heating? Is there any harm in using an aluminum pot to heat water to 168F for sparging the mash in a lauter tun? -steve Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 08:01:54 -0700 From: cary at nas.nasa.gov (Matt F. Cary) Subject: Re: Beer Drinks In HBD #1250, dspalme at mke.ab.com wrote: >In Germany, people will mix a light-colored beer (insert Pilzen or Weiss >here) and mix it with the equivalent of Sprite (tm) and call it a "Radler." In Germany, they were making "radler"s before Sprite(tm) was available. Every radler I ever had was beer and lemonade. I believe that was the original drink, which literally refers to bicyclists. Perhaps in need of a lighter drink than straight beer, they were among the first to drink lots of them (what German would dilute their beer without pressing need). radler is probably now used to mean any beer/soft drink combination. OK, now here's a real beer drink for you. I've heard this referred to as a Slip, Strip and Go Naked: 1 12 oz can frozen lemonade emptied into a pitcher 12oz gin ( measure using the now empty lemonade can) 3 12 oz beeers Mix it all together and you'll experience the name. This is a summer drink and it's the only gin drink I ever remember(barely) liking. Matt Cary cary at nas.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 10:36:31 -0500 From: "Jeff M. Michalski, MD" <michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu> Subject: beer drinks In France, they use beer as a mixer for a drink called "panache". It consists of roughly equal parts of a white soda and beer. Occasionally, they will add a splash of grenadine to the glass, the name of this version escapes me. JEFF M. MICHALSKI michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 09:13:36 -0700 From: Ted Manahan <tedm at hpcvcbp.cv.hp.com> Subject: hot priming solution Full-Name: Ted Manahan A couple days ago, Bart Thielges asks: > When I prime my fermented beer with corn sugar, I usually cool the priming > solution to 70F with an ice bath before mixing with the beer. > I've always thought that this step is probably not necessary since ... > I've never had the guts to actually risk a batch with this hot combination > experiment. Has anyone else done this successfully ? I do it every time. My technique is to boil 1 cup of water, then add between 1/2 and 2/3 cup corn sugar, turn off the heat, and let it sit until cool. Except, I never allow enough time to let it cool. What the heck, I just pour it through a sanitized (or at least rinsed) kitchen funnel onto the beer while racking into the priming carboy. It works for me. Ted Manahan tedm at cv.hp.com 503/750-2856 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 09:18:43 PDT From: DJM1%CRPTech%DCPP at cts27.comp.pge.com Subject: Hot Priming/Keg Request In HDB #1249 Bart asks: )Subject: hot priming )I've always thought that this step is probably not necessary since the )thermal mass of 1 pint of 200F sugar water is nothing compared with 5 )gallons at 70F. So what if I zap a few yeast cells on the initial contact ? )They don't have very good lawyers anyway. )I've never had the guts to actually risk a batch with this hot combination )experiment. Has anyone else done this successfully ? I'd like to )simplify my process. This is the way I've been doing priming since switching to kegs, I've never had any problem with carbonation. ************** Does anyone out there on the HBD know where to obtain old (or new, for that matter) 15 gal kegs....Searches of local Recycling places are a no-go (yeah, I could actually buy some of that massed-produced swill and keep the keg for the deposit). TIA-----You can E-Mail me direct. Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 11:48 CDT From: David Atkins <ATKINS at macc.wisc.edu> Subject: beer dinks & drinks All the talk concerning Shandy's reminded me of the Snakebite--an English concoction served at pubs--1 part lager to 1 part hardcider. Gives you those hangovers where it's difficult to force your eyes open the next day. I've seen a recipe for a Bloody Mary-esque drink made with beer instead of vodka. A brunch drink. The exact measures escape me. Also, there's the eternal short & a pint (Irish Whiskey & Guiness)...either as a boilermaker or drop the shot into the pint. At the Great Taste of the Midwest, Three Bells Brewery of Mich. provided an Irish whiskey infused stout in wooden casks. Hopefully that wasn't a once in my lifetime occurence.'Tis the season & the Bushmill's is at the ready. Happy mixing, David Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 09:57:25 PDT From: kdamrow at Thomas.COM (Kip Damrow) Subject: regional brewing publications Does anyone have phone numbers for regional brewing publications in the mid-west and the east coast? (similar to Celebrator, on the west coast) Thanks, Kip. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1993 10:37:45 -0800 From: "John C. Post" <jpost@ llnl.gov> Subject: Distillation and the home-brewer Actually, as I remember way back a couple of years ago, there is a classic beer style (eis-bock?) that *requires* distillation. There was quite a brew- ha-ha (sic!) as to whether is was legal to make this style or not, as it uses freeze-distillation (you freeze the fermented-out wort and remove the ice cake, which leaves the final product awaiting carbonation). Freeze distillation is technically probably illegal, but, in the spirit of this thread, probably not dangerous... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1993 10:50:47 -0700 (PDT) From: davep at cirrus.com (David Pike) Subject: Carbonation and Filtration While reading the Fix'es Vienna book last night, I came across the sections on filtration and carbonation, and I suddenly got confused as to which order they should occur in. 1. carbonate then filter 2. or filter then carbonate It seems some of the big boys filter and then pump into a conditioning tank to carbonate, so this would be #2. Other breweries, Anchor for one, end secondary fermentation with the beer naturally carbonated, and filter afterwards. At home, it can be either method. Secondary ferment, then filter, then carbonate in a keg, then bottle(or drink). Or it can be the other way around, ie. from the secondary, to the keg for carbonation, then filtration, then bottling. Whats the HBD consensus, which method is used, and why? Cheers! Dave Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Oct 1993 13:57:40 U From: "Daniel F McConnell" <Daniel_F_McConnell at mailgw.surg.med.umich.edu> Subject: lemon beer/yeast nutrient Subject: lemon beer/yeast nutrient Hi All: >In Germany, people will mix a light-colored beer (insert Pilzen or Weiss here) and mix it with the equivalent of Sprite (tm) and call it a "Radler." I believe it is done in a 50/50 ratio. It is quite tasty on those hot, summer days and every now and then I will consider doing the same with some of the swill I see in my parent's 'fridge. Good stuff! I recommend it! Be daring! Give it a try! I first became aware of such strange things when I was in Germany too, I tried it and hated it. Later back home it occured to me that this might be a perfect thirst quencher after triathalons......It was! Don't waste good beer on this. The combination of lemon and beer is far better that other *replacement* crap like Gatoraid or Exceed (tm,tm). Regular beer doesn't cut it-too much carbonation. Besides, you can have a quart or so, experience the tremendous muscle relaxing effects and rehydrate without falling down. While I'm here, I'll bite on the yeast starter question.... from Domenick Venezia >.............[edit]...................Chris grew the starters under the same conditions then assayed them for total cell counts. The YNB starter had a cell density 10 times (!) of the other. The numbers worked out to 10 x 10**10 cells/liter. I seem to remember an optimal pitch for 5 gallons is 4 x 10**10 cells so using YNB you could pitch with a pint and get an optimal cell count. FWIW 10 x 10**10 cells/L isn't really that high. These values are usually expressed in cells/mL and this translates to 10 x 10**7/mL or 100 million cells/mL. A typical normal fermentation may produce cell counts of 50 million cells/mL which is dependant on strain, O2 levels etc. As far as pitching of 4 x 10**10 cells, you don't give a volume of pitching culture, so lets assume that you mean 1 L. 4 x 10**10 cells into 19 L (5 gal) will provide about 2 x 10**9 cells/L or 2 X 10**6 cells/mL. Optimal pitch rates are debatable, but I think it is agreed that this rate is low for ales (should be 5-10 x 10**6/mL) and extremly low for lagers (should be 10-15 x 10**6/mL), especially lagers STARTED at fermentation temperatures near 50F, (not pseudo-steam-start-'em-at- 70-and-cool-'em-to-50-lagers). Noonan recommends even higher rates for Scotch Ales and other strong beer in his new book. What kind of lag time did he get? I'll bet it was on the order of 10-12 hours, not bad, but greater than optimum. DanMcC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1993 11:20:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Kyle Hammon <MHAGEMAN at OREGON.UOREGON.EDU> Subject: Re: beer drinks I have no idea of any history to the drink, but my wife (from the Montana outback - Jordan Montana, pop. 350) introduced me to beer and tomato juice. No, it's not disgusting! My own modification is Snappy Tom or V-8 with Luisiana Hot Sauce plus the beer of your choice. As someone else suggested, this is best done with the beer you find in your parents fridge... or with the stuff leftover from well-intentioned, but sadly unevolved offerings at a pot-luck. Kyle Hammon "Just Drink It" MHAGEMAN at OREGON.UOREGON.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1993 13:31:06 -0500 (CDT) From: Paul Boor <PBOOR at BEACH.UTMB.EDU> Subject: beer drinks: velvet hammer In younger and wilder days we held lab parties that featured the "velvet hammer", i.e. half guinness stout and half dry (cheap) champagne, in a punch bowl with a chunk of dry ice in it, served with small paper cups. Very delicious, much too powerful, and much too easy-going-down... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 09:04:26 PDT From: megatek!hollen at uunet.UU.NET (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Kegging FAQ delayed slightly Well, sorry to inform you all that the Kegging FAQ will be delayed a couple of weeks. The task of combing through back issues of HBD for questions and answers is *much* larger than I had anticipated. I am about halfway through the articles and can only work on them a short time each day. I expect that by the time I am done and preliminary reviews have been done by people whom I have asked to assist me with a review process, it will be the end of November, instead of the end of October as I have previously posted. I am sorry for the delay, but I have to work to support my newsfeed habit. The good news is that the FAQ is not languishing, but making progress daily. I think it will be a very worthwhile endeavor, even though my fingers are growing shorter with prolonged use on the keyboard. B-} Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 14:55 CDT From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli) Subject: mashout > I understand you once had a MM but traded it for a Corona > because the grain kept coming out of the hopper when you turned > the crank. The Corona has an arrow telling you how to turn the > crank and I can understand how No-Mashout-Types (NMT's) feel > more comfortable with it. > > js Well, that's partly true. I did own a Maltmill but returned to my old Corona. Yes, I admit that I couldn't figure out which way the crank turned. That and the fact that once I figured out how to operate the Maltmill, it really didn't do a good job of ringing-out my wet laundry like I thought it would. But we seem to be digressing from the original proposal that mashouts are unnecessary. What is called for in this debate are cold, hard facts. After all, this is HBD not late night cable tv. In that vein I have summarized my last two year's worth of brewing records. What I found was that all grists were composed of Belgian malts. Small amounts of wheat were used but never more than 5%. For background: Corona grind, simple infusion mash, mash & sparge ala picnic cooler, never a protein rest, never a mashout and rarely a ph adjustment. The bottom line remained unchanged: no stuck sparges and mashing efficiencies over 80%. Given the simplicity of the efficiency measurement I think it's safe to say the numbers can be trusted. Assuming that one is using a grist that does not have a high percentage of wheat or rye, I remain confident that mashouts are a waste of time. But why take my word for it? Why not give it a try next time? Over time, we incorporate new techniques into our brewing methodology when convinced of the new technique's merit. I'm proposing the same action only in the opposite direction in that techniques can be eliminated when deemed unnecessary. Such is the case with mashouts. chris campanelli Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 15:12:09 -0500 From: "Jeff M. Michalski, MD" <michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu> Subject: barleywine yeast Barlyewine is featured in the latest issue of zymurgy. The use of a yeast mixture has been suggested by some "experts" but the author of this article claims he has never used anything but ale yeast. Any comments from the HBD? If a combination of ale and other yeast are used, should they be combined day one at pitching, or should the wine or champagne yeast be added after initial fermentation settles down? If an ale yeast is considered hearty enough, which varieties are best? If an ale yeast isn't enough, which wine or champagne yeasts are good quality additions? thanks, JEFF M. MICHALSKI michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 93 14:32 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: lauter tun designs/amylase/Belgian yeasts Wyllie Coyote posted a very good summary of lauter tuns. I'd like to add just a few comments: > 1. Grain bag in a bucket with a spigot near the bottom of the > bucket. Grain bag is held in place with elastic (bungee). Bag is > mesh material.I used one of these for several years. Worked fine. > Disadvantage: Size limitation, not insulated, unless you stick it > in a box. Bag would slip sometimes. Please note that due to a fluid mechanics phenomenon called "channeling" it is recommended that the grain bag you use for the above system should bave relatively "waterproof" sides and only the bottom should be made of mesh. >to allow me to run water through the manifold to clear it. I also >fashioned a metal screen to fit over the manifold- kinda like a >false bottom to make a flatter surface for the grain bed (can you >say "overkill"?). It keeps big grain bits away from the tubing- >aiding the grain bed establishment, and makes it easier to lift >the grain out of the cooler into my healthy compost pile. I don't Perhaps it makes it easier to remove the grains, but if indeed it keeps the large particles of grain away from the manifold, then you don't need the manifold. As you said yourself, it's the grain bed that does the filtering and it requires that the large pieces be at the bottom, smaller on top of those, etc. If the mesh is holding up the large husk pieces, you should be establishing your bed on the screen and omitting the manifold. In all fairness, the commercial devices should have been mentioned. The ones that I know of are the Phil's Phalse Bottom, which is similar in function to the Zapap design, but works a bit differently. The only comment I have about this design is that it has been mentioned on the HBD that the hose has a tendancy to kink where it comes out of the Phalse Bottom. Replacing this with an elbow seems to fix the problem. Another design I know of is available commercially and you can make it yourself: the EasyMasher(tm) or easymasher. This design uses a piece of screen (like stainless windowscreen) formed into a tube and then hoseclamped to a brass tube that makes its way through the wall of the kettle. I would imagine you could mount it in a cooler too. My concern about this design is that the runoff is drawn from a very small area of the mash and would (again, due to channeling) theoretically give lower extraction rates than a lautering system which takes the runoff from a wider range of the cross- section of the grain bed. I must stress *theoretically* since a number of users have reported very good extraction rates. There are a number of very expensive commercial systems (made from straight- sided kegs), which are actually scaled-down versions of full-size commercial lauter tuns. I have no experience nor have heard much about them so it's too soon to tell. Cost is a big disadvantage. Finally, the RIMS system should be mentioned. RIMS stands for Recirculating Infusion Mash System (I believe) and recent improvements have apparently increased the capacity of this system. I know that George Fix was very impressed with the new design of this system. It's biggest disadvantage is cost. Disclaimer -- I don't sell ANY lauter tuns or commercial devices for the building of lauter tuns, so I'd say I'm pretty impartial on this. ***************************** Steve writes: >I am a bit confused over the use of Amylase Enzyme when brewing all >grain beer. My understanding is that it contains Alpha Amalyse. > >My understanding is that Alpha Amylase is denatured around 130 degF. >If this is correct what good is the enzyme at mash temps above 140 >degF? I assume you are talking about a commercial version of Amylase Enzyme. I've never used any commercial versions, but you really shouldn't need any unless you are using a lot of adjunts like boiled rice, oats, wheat flour, oat flour, cornstarch, unmalted grains, etc. Malted barley and malted wheat have more than enough amylase on their own to convert their starches as well as a reasonable amount of adjuncts. There's alpha amylase and beta amylase. Alpha amylase is less temperature sensitive than beta. Alpha slowly begins to denature above 140F, I believe, but will last a couple of hours even at 158F. Beta amylase also begins to denature at about 140F also, but denatures quite quickly above 150F. Alpha amylase converts starches and dextrins into glucose until it reaches a branch that it can't "eat" leaving a limit dextrin. Beta amylase works by cutting large chains of glucose into smaller chains. If you mash at the lower end of the 148F to 158F range, the two enzymes will work together to make a highly fermentable, thin (low body) beer. If you mash at the higher end of the range, you will get a less fermentable, heavier (higher body), slightly sweeter beer. Something in-between, will get you something in-between. The enzymes that denature around 130F would probably be one of the proteolytic (protein degrading) enzymes. There are two there also: Peptidase and Protease, but I forget which does what. The two of them work together like the amylase enzymes to break large proteins into small proteins and amino acids. At lower protein rest temps, you get more amino acids, less body and less head-retaining small proteins. At higher protein rest temps, you get less amino acids and more small proteins (better head retention and more body). *************************** Stu writes: >suggestions here? Would it help to culture a Chimay or Duvel and repitch Chimay is bottled with the fermenting yeast, Duvel (I've been told) is not. Al. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1252, 10/21/93