HOMEBREW Digest #1359 Sat 26 February 1994

Digest #1358 Digest #1360

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  3 gal batches/Czech pils yeast (Jim Grady)
  brewing supplies mail order list (Tom Pratt)
  RIMS (Michael Burgeson)
  yeast from trub (sekearns)
  Creemore Springs Recipie wanted (Doug Burden)
  plastic buckets ("OWEN S. BAMFORD")
  re: Rhino stout (The Rider) (Michael Fetzer)
  re: Rhino stout (The Rider) (Michael Fetzer)
  hydrometers, nerds, and antiquity (philosophy ramble) (Dick Dunn)
  B-Brite ?'s (ELTEE)
  "The Great Pumpkin Beer" (Brian Schlueter)
  Ice beer (Jon Petty)
  Brewing; the Art of Cooking vs. Science ("Pamela J. Day 7560")
  British Malt in German Beer ("CANNON_TOM")
  Zima (WKODAMA)
  Bitterness, Keg Kettles ("Manning Martin MP")
  Drilling Stainless (Bob_McIlvaine)
  Brewer's Digest and Campus Libraries (Derek Sheehan)
  Re: Wheat Crud ("Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616")
  Re: Pub Lists/etc. (Jeff Frane)
  NO-WELD boiler ("Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616")
  sanitizing crockery (Carl Howes)
  Brewpub list (Jeff Frane)
  Blowoff hoses (korz)
  Techno-weenie books (korz)
  Reinheitsgebot ("Ronald E. Gill")
  New Club at U. of Md. ("Ronald E. Gill")
  Contest Announcement (Loren Carter)
  brewpubs and beer (BadAssAstronomer)
  Ice Beer (Thomas_Tills.Henr801h)
  wyeast 2308 (btalk)
  Reinheitsgebot (Tim Anderson)
  Old coffee-machine Auto-spargers. (GANDE)
  Recipes, etc. ("Dale Leidheiser")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 24 Feb 94 17:15:36 EST From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: 3 gal batches/Czech pils yeast Two things: In HBD #1356, Mike Hansen asks about 3 gal batches. I made 3 gal of Porter the other weekend because it was the first time I made porter and so I could stay inside while I did it. There were two problems: - I have been spoiled by my cajun cooker and could not get nearly the "rolling boil" I am now used to, - it was so good, I wish I had more than 3 gal of it. On another note, I am building up a starter of the new Wyeast Czech Pils yeast (#2278) and have noticed that there is a LOT of diacetyl being produced and that it does not pack down very well at all (I guess this means it is a poor flocculator). I have been equivocating about what temp to grow the starter at and I was wondering if the high-low-high temps may have something to do with the high diacetyl levels. (high = 65^F, low=52^F). The smell of butter almost knocks me over when I take off the airlock to give the yeasties more food. Has anybody else tried this yeast yet? What has your experience been w.r.t. diacetyl & flocculation? - -- Jim Grady grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 15:50:33 +0800 From: Tom.Pratt at Eng.Sun.COM (Tom Pratt) Subject: brewing supplies mail order list I've been told a list of mail order outfits who sell brewing supplies has made its way around here before. Well, I missed it. Can someone perhaps forward me a copy, or send me the name and phone number of your favorite mail order supplier? Thanks, Tom tpratt at Eng.Sun.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 94 18:31:34 PST From: Michael.Burgeson at Eng.Sun.COM (Michael Burgeson) Subject: RIMS I had some requests for further info on the RIMS system I'm using. It is rather lengthy, so if you want to know more about my implementation, email me, and I will be happy to send you a description. And, Mike McCaw, I got the following email address for you (which bounces): at wdni.com, at Sun. Please send your (ungarbled) email address. - --mik Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 19:07:30 -0800 From: sekearns at ucdavis.edu Subject: yeast from trub Thanks to all who provided advice about the recycling of yeast, I have been successfull. If I have a quart jar full of clean yeast, how many batches should/could this be used for? (5 gallon batches) How does one know? Thanks very much. Matt Rademacher sekearns at ucdavis.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 21:53:00 -0500 From: doug.burden at canrem.com (Doug Burden) Subject: Creemore Springs Recipie wanted Does anyone have a recipie for Creemore Springs? Doug Burden Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 23:31:24 -0500 (EST) From: "OWEN S. BAMFORD" <obamford at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: plastic buckets Derek Sheehan wrote to ask what was so awful about using plastic buckets for primary fermentation, and went on to say that he had excellent results from plastic. So do I. Some oxygen probably does diffuse through the sides, but not enough to matter, and in any case the wort is saturated with CO2 and can't take up much oxygen. Camden tablets and citric acid seem to do an adequate job of disinfecting. Boiling water works well too, and is quite safe on polypropylene. Stainless steel looks good and is probably easier to clean, but for home brewing in 4-gallon lots, plastic is fine. Just make sure it's food grade and doesn't have nasty toxic plasticizers that can leach out into your beer. On the same subject... those 2-liter soda bottles are easy to sterilize, lightweight, tough, and pressure-tight. They may not be stylish but they make bottling quick and easy. True, the pressure does go down when you open them, so the beer has to be finished fairly quickly, but this has never been much of a problem. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 00:48:07 -0800 From: mfetzer at UCSD.EDU (The Rider) (Michael Fetzer) Subject: re: Rhino stout > My questions are: > 1. How do I extrapolate this for a five gallon batch? > 2. Does anyone out there in brewland have a phone number/contact > at Wyeast? > 3. What is the best way to gather yeast from the bottom of a > container? (Which is what I might have to do should phone call > fail.) > 4. What is meant by Cent.? > > Any help from the HBD Brewmeisters will be greatly appreciated and > final results will be posted. This stout is one of the finest I > have ever tasted. It ranks right up there with (please God don't > strike this fine Irish head dead) Guinness Stout! Hi Jack... Duncan Saffir, brewmaster at the McMenamins on Allen and Murray, has indeed told me that they do use the same strain of yeast for all their beers. This seems rather common, for example Sierra Nevada does it too. I don't know what strain of yeast McM uses, but it should be easy to find out. 1. To extrapolate this, I would just divide by 44. As long as boil times and concentrations are the same, you should get roughly the same results. Your biggest problem is going to be extraction rate... after the first batch, you can compare your OG to theirs, and then make another adjustment. Say you end up w/ 60 points, and they with 70... you need to increase your malt by 15% then. Not the hops, tho. 2. No idea off hand, tho I would think it's on every package of wyeast. Sometimes they seem to sell under the label 'Brewer's Choice', I think. 3. I assume you're talking about buying some of their beer bulk, letting it settle out, and using the yeast? Well, I've done this w/ Sierra Nevada before. Just swirl the sediment and pour into a standard gravity (40 points) starter medium. You might want to start with a small volume, and pitch into larger starters several times. I usually do pop my Wyeast, pour into 250ml starter, and after a day into 500ml starter. Then into the brew. 4. Centennial hops. Steinbart's should have them readily available. Mike - -- Michael Fetzer pgp 2.2 key available on request Internet: mfetzer at ucsd.edu uucp: ...!ucsd!mfetzer Bitnet: FETZERM at SDSC HEPnet/SPAN: SDSC::FETZERM or 27.1::FETZERM Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 00:48:25 -0800 From: mfetzer at UCSD.EDU (The Rider) (Michael Fetzer) Subject: re: Rhino stout Oh, btw... you missed a wonderful Brew Crew meeting the other day in Beaverton. Fred Eckhardt himself conducted the annual chocolate and beer tasting and Mozart listening. :) Most of the beers were excellent, unfortunately I'm prejudiced when it comes to chocolates. But they had some excellent ones as well. Next meeting will be at Steinbarts again, nothing fancy, on 10 March. The one after at a new brewpub downtown on 14 April. Good night to get drunk, I suppose. They have a hotline to call, 288-BREW, for info on meetings. Hope to see ya at one of these sometime, or maybe we can get together for a beer out here. The fellow that brews at the McMenamin on Allen and Murray is a pretty good friend of mine, I'm sure he'd be amenable to helping you out brewing a baby rhino. Take care... Mike - -- Michael Fetzer pgp 2.2 key available on request Internet: mfetzer at ucsd.edu uucp: ...!ucsd!mfetzer Bitnet: FETZERM at SDSC HEPnet/SPAN: SDSC::FETZERM or 27.1::FETZERM Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Feb 94 01:40:49 MST (Fri) From: rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: hydrometers, nerds, and antiquity (philosophy ramble) While I agree with folks that we HBD folk sometimes have a tendency to "nerd out" on equipment, I don't think it's a useful response to say that everything should be done "seat of the pants". The difference between good beer and great beer is sometimes a matter of relatively minor factors. To someone not yet accustomed to it all, a few gadgets may make it easier to hit the target, with fewer bad batches in the beginning. The appeal to antiquity--"people made beer for centuries without this stuff"--may not be as accurate as you think, either. For example, folks didn't have nicely calibrated glass hydrometers and jars, but they *did* have the equivalent of a hydrometer and they *did* check gravities. In the "Kenelme Digby" recipes, printed around 1670, the common technique seems to have been to float a fresh egg in the wort and note how high it floated. Here's a check for gravity of a metheglin must: "...then put in as much of the best Honey you can get, as will bear an egg to the breadth of two-pence ; that is, till you can see no more of the egg above the water then a two-pence will cover..." Other recipes use (probably more accurately) the vertical extent of the floating portion of the egg--as, for example, "the breadth of a groat." They used what they could get, and they made fairly accurate measurements (for the time) with it. What I'm getting at is that the tools have changed but the concerns haven't. If you don't want to use a hydrometer, fine--it really *isn't* necessary if you know what you're doing. But remember that it *can* be a help, and people have been using hydrometer-equivalents for centuries. If you're starting out, get one. Set it aside when/if you no longer feel you need it, but don't let the tools control you by either their presence or their absence. Moreover, it's true that people made beer for centuries (millenia, even) without any fancy aids, but it's also the case that brewing used to be a normal home activity. Everyone was exposed to it from youth on, so they had day-to-day experience with the process. They didn't suddenly wake up in their early 20's to the realization that they could make beer, and have to start from scratch. (You can think of what we're doing in HBD as over- coming cultural deprivation.:-) Moreover, they had a lot more bad beer back then than we want to deal with now! Taking another angle on this: I've brewed now and then for about 15 years. I use some recipes and about an average number of gadgets. But when I bake bread, the only things I really measure are yeast if I use pre-measured packets, and oven temperature. Ingredient measures really are "this much in the hand" of salt and "a glop like this" of oil, "yo much" water, and so on. Now, several points about this, relevant to brewing: * I've been making bread for 35 years. Along the way, it's gotten to where I don't need to measure ingredients, use a thermometer on the liquid for the yeast, time the rising, etc. That doesn't mean these factors aren't checked; it just means I have enough experience to know them without a measuring device. And yes, I screwed up enough along the way...as often as not even *with* recipes. * I don't try for close uniformity from one batch to the next. I say to myself something like "OK, tonight I want something with some oat sweetness, tender crust [adjust fat], rich [maybe an egg, mental cor- rection on water],..." You can do this with brewing too, once you have enough batches under your belt [that's a sadly relevant phrase in physiological terms, isn't it?:-] to know how to stay within the bounds of what's "palatable", "balanced"... Of course, to any commercial brewer (even your favorite micro-pub), batch-to-batch variation is not only anathema, but ruinous to revenue. * I can't teach anyone to make bread effectively, because by now so much of the process is intuitive that I don't know what to describe. It would be a lot easier if I were less sure of myself. You may work intuitively, but you can't teach intuition. - --- Dick Dunn rcd at eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado USA ...Mr Natural says, "Get the right tool for the job!" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 05:57:08 -0500 (EST) From: ELTEE at delphi.com Subject: B-Brite ?'s I am using B-Brite for the first time instead of bleach. Should I let it dry or rinse it? I have a batch of stout in my secondary that I cleaned with B-Brite. The outside has a few milky stains where I didn't wipe it off. I did thoroughly rinse the carboy, but I have something similiar INSIDE the carboy. It's even below the level of the beer. It's a ribbed carboy and it's right below both ribs and it'a definately on the inside. Is this from the B-brite? hoppy brewing Ken Bair ELTEE at delphi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 21:07:27 +0000 (JST) From: Brian Schlueter <schluetb at emh.kadena.af.mil> Subject: "The Great Pumpkin Beer" Forwarded message: >From schluetb Fri Feb 25 21:05 JST 1994 TRY THIS ONE OUT: Category : Herb & Spice Method : Extract Starting Gravity : 1.050 Ending Gravity : 1.011 Alcohol content : 5.0% Recipe Makes : 5.0 gallons. Age Beer : 2 weeks. "The Great Pumpkin" Beer 5.5 gal Water 5 Ibs Amber Malt (Dry Extract) 14 grams Ale Yeast 1 tsp Irish Moss 16 oz Can Pumpkin (Libbys, w/o preservatives) 3/4 cup Corn Sugar 4 oz Washington Cascade Hops 3 sticks Cinnamon 1 tsp Nutmeg (ground) In a stainless kettle (24qt or more) mix water & Malt, Heat to rolling boil. At boil start timer,(total time of 60 min.), add the following: *(SEE SUGGESTION BELOW BEFORE ADDING ANYTHING) at 30 min. add Hops & Irish Moss at 40 min. add Cinnamon and Nutmeg at 50 min. add Pumpkin At 60 min. remove from heat and begin wort chiller, Chill to 100 F and transfer to primary fermenter. Take sample for gravity reading. Pitch yeast or yeast starter as suggested. Ferment (always closed) in the primary for the first 24 hours then transfer to secondary. Check gravity 2 days later, looking for a F.G. of 1.010 - 1.012. When reaching F.G. transfer to mixing container and add Corn Sugar for priming, then bottle. Age 2-3 weeks before drinking. *Suggestion- Make a yeast starter batch: Remove 1 cup of wort (malt & water only!)at 30 min. mark and cover with aluminum foil, then poke the thermometer though foil and put the container in a ice water bath to chill. Target temperature is 95 F. When reaching 95 F remove from ice water bath and pitch the yeast, then cover with foil. Comments: We use this recipe during Thanksgiving and Halloween party's, the alcohol comes out to about 5%. Make it for all your friends so they can enjoy "The Great Pumpkin". This recipe was created by, Bob Knapp & Brian Schlueter of Okinawa, Japan. Kam Pia ! (Drink be happy) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 7:45:23 EST From: Jon Petty <jpetty at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Ice beer Someone asked about ice beer recently. On this side of the Atlantic, Ice Beer is mostly just another gimicky Madison Ave term to sell cheap beer; like "COLD FILTERED" (almost all beers are filtered and it ain't done hot) or "DRY" (different hops used). In the case of Bud Ice, they use corn syrup instead of rice, (cheaper) and the beer is dropped below 32 deg after fermentation ( although nothing is removed). Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 08:15:00 EST From: "Pamela J. Day 7560" <DAY at A1.TCH.HARVARD.EDU> Subject: Brewing; the Art of Cooking vs. Science Hello all, I guess I just can't resist jumping into the fray... I've found that cooking and brewing are two very similar ARTS. There doesn't have to be any science involved in either to get great results. How many world-class chefs out there are chemists? I am a scientist and I leave my chemistry, microbiology and all other scientific references at work where they belong. I brew like I cook, (so far my camping buddies haven't complained, they buy, I cook) I use recipes as a guide, not gospel, if it doesn't sound good, I substitute. I use my hydrometer only to get an idea of how potent my brew may be, and I never worry. When you start getting uptight about your beer it will taste "stressed". Laura, if you want to write a brewbook for the non-technical e-mail me back, I'd love to help. Ok control freaks flame at will, but keep it to private e-mail, sniveling only clutters the digest. Pam Day at a1.tch.harvard.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Feb 94 08:25:00 EST From: "CANNON_TOM" <CANNON_TOM at hq.navsea.navy.mil> Subject: British Malt in German Beer Message Creation Date was at 25-FEB-1994 08:25:00 Our Brewheat Mash Tun crapped out on us while we were brewing our Maibock two weeks ago, and this presents a problem in that we are due to brew a Maerzen soon, and we have no easy way to step infuse our undermodified German Malt save fixing or reaquiring a mash tun (stove top mashing would be difficult because we stagger step 5 gallon batches and I don't have enough burners on the stove for everything). My question is what about a cooler single step mash for the Maerzen with well modified British two row malt? Besides the obvious (Britsh Malt is a little darker than German Pils malt, and BRITISH MALT in GERMAN BEER!!!!!) whats the collective wisdom on substituting British Grain for German Grain in an Oktoberfest style beer (assuming we will use a good lager yeast and the correct fermentation temperatures)? Tom Cannon DH Brewery Fairfax/Annandale VA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 09:00:13 -0500 From: WKODAMA at aba.com Subject: Zima In #1358, Glenn wrote: > you can tell from a hop tea. Add a little honey and vodka and > we might have something that could compete with Zima :-0 Make that "blow away" Zima. A Zima rep ran into me last week and suggested that I have a taste. UGH! PTOOEY! ACK!! PFFT!! If I'd wanted a fruit-flavored bottled water, I'd have gotten a Clearly Canadian or whatever they're called. And they stoop to putting the word malt on the bottle to try to lure in the unsuspecting. This is just another alcohol delivery system for the boogie till ya puke set. Anyone with even a modicum of appreciation for REAL malt beverages should be highly offended by this product. Just my $.02 Wesman wkodama at aba.com Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Feb 1994 09:27:39 U From: "Manning Martin MP" <manning#m#_martin_p at mcst.ae.ge.com> Subject: Bitterness, Keg Kettles I would like to clarify the statement made by Scott Wisler about a balanced IBU/OG curve; I didn't derive it, merely plotted data collected by Quinten Smith and published in Zymurgy (special hop issue?... I cant remember exactly). In any case I have found this to be a useful sanity check when designing recipes. Smith had to make some BIG assumptions to produce the data, but it seems to be representative. I have superimposed the ranges of IBU and OG for all of the AHA style guidelines on this plot, and find generally that the hoppier ones are above the line, and the maltier ones are below. On IBU formulas and complaints that some are complicated, I disagree. They are all the same and simple: eIBU = (weight(g) x %alpha x 1000 x Utilization)/Batch Size(l). The complex part is determining the Utilization :-). I had fun playing with Mark's hop alpha deterioration formulas. They illustrate how important it is to keep your hops at as low a temperature as possible, regardless of whether they're in barrier bags, poly bags or paper bags! W A Kuhn asks about keg kettles. The March-April Brewing Techniques has an article describing my design and thoughts on kettle features in general. It should be on the street in a week or two. MPM Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 10:00:11 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: SIPHONING As an alternative to the hose & clamp-- I found a store-bought siphon in the hardware department, advertised for siphoning kerosene. It has a tube you stick in the carboy, a cheapie plastic bellows-like pump, and an exit tube. It was like $2.99 on sale. I'm sure it's not foodgrade plastic, but I sanitize it and the beer is only momentarily in contact with it. (Maybe the plastic is leaching out some chromosome killer, but I haven't noticed any twitching yet.) The inlet tube required some adapting to get an extension to reach the bottom of the carboy, but the outlet was standard diameter (maybe 3/8"?) and I put my normal plastic siphon hose on it. Works. Anecdote: in the olden days (70s) I and everybody else used to just suck on the hose to get the siphon going, and in general sanitation was ignored. Lots of polluted batches as a result. The most hugest quantum improvement in homebrewing in the last 25 years (imho) is sanitizing stuff. Now, I'm maybe paranoid but the less I can touch/breathe-on/expose everything, the happier my beer is. Cheers, (Ron Dwelle, dweller at gvsu.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 10:15:08 EST From: Bob_McIlvaine at keyfile.com Subject: Drilling Stainless Drilling stainless is just not the same as drilling normal steel. A sharp bit is a must. A High Speed Steel bit is adequate. For larger holes the relief angle can be modified if you plan to drill many holes. It will also help to use a lubricant. I use a 60/40 mix of chain saw oil and kerosene. This is mainly used to remove excess heat, so apply continuously while drilling (stainless doesn't dissipate heat well, you get a localized heat build-up at the tip of the bit). Regards, Mac Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 08:34:11 -0700 From: uchtlds at terra.oscs.montana.edu (Derek Sheehan) Subject: Brewer's Digest and Campus Libraries Dear All, Thanks for all the replies! I got a lot of mail from ".com" people who, politely, pointed out that they were not students and can't get access to university libraries. I did some checking of the Montana University system and they will allow ANY Montana citizen access to ANY Montana university library. The access privileges are just like an undergraduate. I ugre you'all to determine what your nearest university library policy is. You may be surprised. I have also found a collection of books on brewing and brewing science. Anyone interested in the chemical changes of hops during the brewing process? I received a current American Chemical Society book catalog yesterday and the ACS has published a book,"Beer and Wine Production: Analysis, Characterization and Technological Advances" by Barry H. Gump (ISBN 0-8412-2724-1, $24.95). This book may be on the side of "hard science" and confusing for the non-chemist, BUT there are chapters on homebrewing! I intend to purchase this book and post a review. If anyone is interested, the ACS number is 1-800-227-5558. Derek. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Derek Sheehan uchtlds at earth.oscs.montana.edu "Better Living Through Montana State University - Chemistry Chemistry" - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 11:52:23 EST From: "Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Re: Wheat Crud Lowell Hart <lhart at CATI.CSUFresno.EDU> asks about: Subject: Wheat Crud >YOW! I did my first mash with wheat malt last night, and wound up with the ugliest gray crud I've ever seen in a layer across the top of my mash/lauter cooler... So what's the deal with this layer of grunge? Again, the age-old advice of relax-don't worry is applicable. My last wheat batch was near 70% wheat, and you should have seen the scum that I scooped of the top of the boil! It will clean off mostly with hot H20, a little scrubbing. The stuff you skim from the boil (and the hot/cold break for that matter) should not be thrown down the drain, as it will do a number on your pipes that will take a healthy dose of draino to fix. Don't be alarmed at cloudy wheat brews, especially if you don't filter. Age them a couple weeks (or more) and the taste will be there... Glen Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 09:07:35 -0800 (PST) From: gummitch at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Re: Pub Lists/etc. J Andrew Patrick wrote: > I'm getting really tired of being told "You can't post THIS!", "You can't > post THAT!". The following quote is from the OFFICIAL DESCRIPTION of this > discussion group, as published in Paul Gilster's excellent book, > The Internet Navigator: > Well, I am certainly relieved to hear that there is an official description of the Homebrew Digest -- this has been weighing on me heavily. My only question is: "Who the hell is Paul Gilster and when did he last participate in the Digest?" J Andrew, the Digest is essentially run by consensus, not by Paul Gilster, whoever he is, and there are some who feel that brewpub reviews are not appropriate here. I didn't tell you that you "couldn't post this!" (exclamation points or not) I appealed to the self-interest of homebrewers, who might, like me, be tired of brewpub reviews clogging the digest, which *officially* is a homebrew digest. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 13:09:51 EST From: "Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: NO-WELD boiler I lost the article, but there was some discussion on keg fittings and welding. I put together a 1/2 BBL set up without any welding. Here's the summary (assumes you have de-pressurized the keg and removed the ball-valve assembly, DON'T PROCEED UNLESS YOU ARE SURE!): 1. Mark the pattern/aquire a top. When your SO is out of the house, go through the pots and lids and find an extra one that is about 10" in diameter. Trace the pattern of the lower lip (which has a diameter slightly less than the exterior) on the keg top, centering it. 2. Cut the top. I started by drilling a 1/2" pilot hole in the top, about 2 inches from the side. I liked the idea of leaving the handles intact, for purposes of moving (discussed later). Next, get a jig saw or a sawzall and a pack of blades (you'll need them, SS is tough!). The problem you will have is that if you use the jigsaw, curvature (sp?) of the top tilts the saw; the sawzall is less bothered (be patient and it'll work!). 3. Clean up the cut lip with either a fine file or some medium sandpaper, being careful not to get splinters. 4. Drill the drain hole. You'll need about a 5/8 hole. Locate the hole near the bottom but on the sidewall (about a 1/4" from the bottom weld). Also, stay away from the 1/2" holes in the bottom piece, because heat and flames will come out of them when you heat the keg, which you don't want hitting your valve! What I used for my set up was the following: 1/2 SS ball valve (Teel brand, from grainger), a compression nut with an internal 1/2" pipe thread, and one of those copper fittings that has a 1/2" pipe thread on one side (outside) and the other side with a socket to solder in a 1/2 pipe. What I did was to cut the compression nut such that I had a 1/2" copper nut left without the part after the thread that slopes down to the pipe diameter. Thread this onto the male thread of the 1/2 MPT to 1/2 pipe adapter , leaving about 1/4" of thread after the end of the nut. What you have just created is essentially a heat-proof bulkhead fitting... 5. Push the threaded end of this assembly through the hole in the keg from the inside out, so that the threaded end pops out of the wall of the keg. Screw the 1/2 ball valve onto the protruding thread, with some teflon pipe tape in between the keg wall and the valve. I also had some teflon on the inside of the assembly, between the interior of the keg and the nut. Looks like this: | [NUT]| =======////////////// >>> enters female thread of ball valve. =======///////////// [NUT]| | | (keg wall) (Love ASCII, NOT!) 6. On the other side of the ball valve (presumably also a female thread), I added a 1/2 MPT to a flare (compression) adapter, the right angle kind (you want to drain straight down, right?). The reason I used the compression fittings is because I sometimes like to use a hopback, which also has a 1/2" line w/a flare and nut inlet/outlet, which in turn connects to my COUNTERMERSE (TM) chiller. The COUNTERMERSE consists of 30 feet of soft R-type copper (1/2") pipe. In the winter, when snow is available, it sits in a bucket of snow and the hot wort passes through the inside of the coil (takes about 8 buckets of NJ's heavenly white to cool a 12 gallon batch). In the summer, I clean it up and use it as an immersion cooler, using well water as a coolant. Again, the compression fittings mate with an adapter from my sink. You can do about two loads of laundry with the waste coolant water. 7. The handles. I left them on so that I can pick up the keg for a gravity drain. In the beams of my cellar, I put a piece of rebar through the floor beams and got a $20 come-along from Home depot. You can lift a full 1/2 BBL with it and still have one hand left to hold a cold one... 8. Other notes. Reflux (boil just water) about 5 gallons to clean the keg and to test for leaks. (Leave the top on). You may have to tighten the drain a little more. You're done! Glen P.S. Another handy gadget is a dip stick with markings for the volume etched in it (thanks to the HBD'er who suggested it awhile back, Micah???). Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 13:16:23 EST From: sdlsb::73410 at sdlcc (Carl Howes) Subject: sanitizing crockery I recently tried a Bock called "Bock im Stien". I liked the beer, and I am intrigued by the possibilities of reusing the stoneware bottle it came in, especially if I can get many cheap. Is there anyone out there who has tried this or has enough knowledge about stoneware who can tell me if these can be reasonably sanitized? i.e. will my standard bleach solution do the trick, or should I use heat, or just toss the idea? TIA. Carl 73410 at sdlcc.msd.ray.com P.S. These have a ceramic swingtop. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 10:23:54 -0800 (PST) From: gummitch at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Brewpub list If, indeed, the brewpub list is sadly out-of-date, perhaps someone (?) could expend the effort to fix it. It seems to me it would also be a good thing if a person could access a related source and search by city or state, get a list of brewpubs (with addresses, etc.) and perhaps a selection of reviews. People who had visited the Frothing Dog in Killabong, New South Wales, f'rinstance could post their impressions ("no worries, mate, the beer's foul") and the interested inquirer would see if it might be worth the trip. I believe CompuServe maintains a good pub list (Robin!???); perhaps they'd share. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 12:18 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Blowoff hoses Tom writes: >I would suggest at least a 1/4" hose at least 5' long... I would recomend a blowoff hose at least 1/2" INSIDE DIAMETER for normal beers and 1" INSIDE DIAMETER for fruit beers. 1/4" is destined to clog and make an incredible mess (I know first hand). Even my 1/2" ID hose was not wide enough to keep from clogging on a raspberry/cherry beer and you should see what a couple of pounds of flying fruit will do to a wall... The added advantage of the 1" ID (1.25" OD) hose is that you don't need a stopper. All you need is to stick it into the neck of the carboy and put the other end in a jug or bucket with a bit of boiled water in it (no, I don't recommend bleach solution -- what if some gets sucked up and into the carboy?). This works on 3-, 5- and 6-gallon glass carboys. My understanding is that the 6.5- and 7-gallon necks are a bit different in ID -- it still might work, though. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 12:32 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Techno-weenie books I'm curious as to which books Laura feels are overly advanced for beginners. I started with Charlie Papazian's "Complete Joy of Homebrewing" and felt that although it was indeed intimidating to jump into the brewing game, I did not feel that the writing was very technical, especially in the Beginner chapters. "Technical" terms, such as "hydrometer" are defined in simple English... see page 25 under "What's a Hydrometer?" (I've got the New CJoHB, too, and have read it also, but am too lazy to go find the page where hydrometers are explained.) The other books out there (Miller's two books, Noonan's, George Fix's, J.S. Hough's) perhaps may require more basic knowledge (although I think that Miller's second book was written on a bit more basic level), but after reading Papazian, I don't think they should be any trouble at all. So, I feel that the "cookbook" version of the homebrewing text is already available. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 13:38:49 -0500 From: "Ronald E. Gill" <brew at Glue.umd.edu> Subject: Reinheitsgebot I have travelled extensively throughout the world, and of course all over Germany (when it was West Germany), and I have come to the conclusion that a good beer is where ever you find it (hopefully in front of your lips and over the tongue!). In response to Dave Smucker where he said basically that you will not find a bad beer in Germany, I have had the unfortunate experience of finding a few bad beers in Germany! Beer is not only the way you brew it, but also the way you treat it once it is fermented. The Reinheitsgebot was enacted by Duke Albert IV of Bavaria that stated b that beer would only be made with malted barley, hops, and water. There was no mention of yeast in the Reinheitsgebot since yeast was not known to exist (the year was 1516 so you have to give them a break). The purpose behind the law was to protect the ordinary citizen from buying something called beer that was made from other fermented products like beets or corn. Barley was an expensive farm crop back then so that cheap breweries were using anything to make something fermented. The Duke protected beer in Bavaria, and for the rest of the civilized world from being a bodyless mass of liquid that has alcohol in it. A good beer made anywhere in the world where the breweries do not follow the reinheitsgebot still use a large portion of their mash as malted barley. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 13:46:39 -0500 From: "Ronald E. Gill" <brew at Glue.umd.edu> Subject: New Club at U. of Md. There is a new club for home wine, mead, and beer makers at the University of Maryland at College Park. It is named the Brewers and Vintners Guild. The Guild is dedicated to bring to the campus community the historical and cultural significance of fermented beverages and the helping of fellow members become masters of the Zymurgists art. Meetings are held every two weeks in Tydings Hall, room 0111 on Tuesdays from 6:30 til 8:30 PM. Any questions, email me at brew at glue.umd.edu. I am a chemical engineering major with six years experience in homebrewing. We plan on having tastings, competitions, and field trips to local breweries and wineries. The Guild is open to all Students, Faculty, and Staff of the U. of Md. Thanks and Good Brewing, Ron Gill, Master Zymurgist Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 12:29:37 -0700 From: Loren Carter <lcarter at claven.idbsu.edu> Subject: Contest Announcement Contest Announcement Eighth Annual Gemstate Homebrew Competition Entry Deadline: March 18, 1994 For more information send me your e-mail or snail mail address and I will send descriptions, forms etc. Loren Carter Lcarter at Claven.idbsu.idbsu.edu Chemistry Department Boise State University Boise, Idaho Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 14:08:38 -0600 (CST) From: BadAssAstronomer <STOREY at fender.msfc.nasa.gov> Subject: brewpubs and beer Hi all Just to remind everyone what it says at the top of their digest every morning: FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor What can/cannot be discussed on the digest seems pretty clear to me. So, on to more inportant things. I just heard about a mid-south beer festival in Ft. Smith Arkansas. I think it is the first, so probably no one has any opinions on it. Since this seems to be the closest I'll get to a beer festival (living in Huntsville AL), I've been thinking about going. Unfortunately, I've forgotten the name of the place, but I believe it to be the only brewpub in Ft. Smith. So, if anyone is interested, or has more information than I do, please email me -- storey at msfc.nasa.gov cheers scott aka baa Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 12:25:13 PST From: Thomas_Tills.Henr801h at xerox.com Subject: Ice Beer >So for you, the few, the knowledgeable, please disperse with some bandwidth on >the topic. Real Ice brew is beer lagered at a temperature just above freezing. Probably for a long time. I have tasted and fully enjoyed Niagra Falls Brewing Company's Eisbock. I believe Labbatts brews their beer as they normally do, but then chill it to just below freezing. This causes some of the water to freeze into tiny ice particles, which is filtered out, leaving a more robust(sic) beer. All the other beers with the name Ice in them are basically chilled down to around freezing, and then filtered, no ice is removed(sounds like cold filtering, nothing new), this is just an advertising executives idea of 'ice brewed' beer. It has nothing to do with the brewing process, just a band wagon to jump on. Nobody wants to be left behind again, as they were when Miller invented the `Lite' beer. God, I hate these commercial breweries, that's why I homebrew. TNT Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 14:15:19 EST From: btalk at aol.com Subject: wyeast 2308 Here's a summary of replies received re Wyeast 2308 Munich lager yeast off odors: 'A slight odor?' 'the sulfury smell is an EXPECTED transient odor that will pass with continued fermentation, and should totally dissappear with lagering.' 'A sulfury aroma is not unusual during primary fermentation, especially in lagers. It generally goes away.' 'After racking to secondary, I noticed a definite and pronounced sulfur/yeasty note in the beer. The yeast cake at the bottom of the primary was especially picquant. On another related subject, experiencing a real lack of attenuation in this strain. After three weeks in the primary, all batches seemed to get stuck at around 2/3's of final gravity. fermentation going again after racking to a secondary (keg) and rousing the yeast.' Thanks for your input. My Pale Bock is coming along nicely. I haven't noticed attenuation trouble before, though the sg seems stalled at 1.040 (og around 1.075 using 9lbs Laaglander xtra light dme and 3.5 lb specialty malt, I didn't actually measure it) I'll try rousing the yeast to see what happens. Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 13:03:24 PST From: tima at wv.MENTORG.COM (Tim Anderson) Subject: Reinheitsgebot In HBD #1358 Dave Smucker sez: >In HBD #1355 Dan Z. Johnson comments about " Reinheitsgebot " >and how there are good beers in countries without it. True, >but have you ever had a BAD beer in Germany? Have you ever had >a BAD BAD beer in the good old USA? Yep!! Enough said. I'm glad that Germany has that R thing, and I'm glad that I live in a country without it. I assume Celis White would be illegal, as would Sam Adams Cranberry "Lambic". And if your local craft brewery decided to try making a Chimay or Rochefort clone, it wouldn't be allowed. America makes plenty of BAD beer, but like Velveeta Slices, I don't much care. I simply choose to not buy it. Yes, I think this is an appropriate topic for HBD. tim Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Feb 94 21:04:19 GMT From: GANDE at slims.attmail.com Subject: Old coffee-machine Auto-spargers. Back in HBD1333, Ed Hitchcock talked about his SPARGATRON 6000, perhaps a little tongue-in-cheek. He proposed using an old coffee maker to produce a constant supply of sparge water, and says his implementation cranks out a steady 3 GPH of 150F water. Well this got my curiosity piqued, so I scrounged up an old machine and pulled out the business end. It seems that it's composed of an in and out water pipe, passing through a heater element which is governed by a thermostat of some sort. With a little tweaking and insulating the thermostat from the heater I'm able to produce a consistant flow of 165F water, perfect for sparging. The thing is gravity fed, so flow is controlled by the height of the water on the ingres side. Flow also affects temperature and with some fiddling with a hose crimper on the output side, plus an equal flow out of the lautertun the whole mess stays balanced between temperature and flow rate. It takes about 2 minutes to set up. Kewl. Now I have time to wade through todays HBD and finish a pint. +----------------------------------+-----------------+ | Internet: gande at slims.attmail.com| "640K ought to | | Glenn Anderson | be enough for | | Manager, Telecom. Facilities | anybody." | | Sun Life of Canada |-Bill Gates, 1981| +----------------------------------+-----------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 15:12:27 -0700 (MST) From: "Dale Leidheiser" <dleidhei at ceres.AGSCI.ColoState.EDU> Subject: Recipes, etc. Please send information/ files/ etc. ! Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1359, 02/26/94