HOMEBREW Digest #1392 Thu 07 April 1994

Digest #1391 Digest #1393

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Tumbleweed and mediocrity (Kinney Baughman)
  Danny Dumps (ELQ1)
  A "stout" request and a lymerick (dyeater)
  Partial mash techniques (Stephen Hudson)
  Copper and Stainless Steel (Jim_Merrill)
  Re: Extract vs. All Grain (Jim Grady)
  HBD Testing (Brian J. Cecil)
  Ref. Thermostat (Kevin Emery DSN 584-2900  )
  irish moss/all grain time/extract vs. all-grain (06-Apr-1994 0858 -0400)
  beer competitions (TODD CARLSON)
  RE: temp controller (David Deaven)
  lambic recipes request ("Glen Flowers 601-7253, LFF-139")
  15 gal sanke kegs as fermenters (Bob Jones)
  RE: temp controller (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Re: Keg Poppet O-ring Removal? (Dion Hollenbeck)
  EBC references (Michael Sharp)
  *Malt Berverages* (dmorey)
  Re: Modifying a Gott/Rubbermaid 5 gallon cooler (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Kill Jack Schmidling? (GANDE)
  Re : Raspberry Porter (eclus.dnet!pershall)
  Coffee Brew and Keg Parts (JEBURNS)
  Changing Gotts (Carl Howes)
  I'm new and want to brew beer (Roland Tropper)
  lagering (Bryan L. Gros)
  First mash questions ("Paul Sovcik, Pharm.D.")
  More about all-grain (SWEENERB)
  [homebrewed] temp controllers (Dan `Hefe' Wiesen)
  Irish Moss (Rich Larsen)

Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 05 Apr 1994 17:52:39 -0400 (EDT) From: Kinney Baughman <BAUGHMANKR at conrad.appstate.edu> Subject: Tumbleweed and mediocrity As the Netgods would have it, the following remarks didn't make it to my email box yesterday. In a fit of self-restraint, I'll holster my EASYFLAMER (tm) and respond to Jack with more respect than is deserved: >>I asked Kinney: `Can't you brew a better beer using all-grain?' >>The answer is basically, Yes. But..... > Interesting comment that should not be lost in this rosy scenario of an > extract brew pub. > I guess my question from a business point would be, "why bother?" It ends up > being an eatery with a half hearted brewery and one might just as well buy > good craft beer as take all the pains to make mediocre beer. Have you tried the stout we had on tap last week? Or the IPA we served up a couple of months ago? No? So much for my first point. The question we had to ask ourselves was whether a brewpub would be commercially successful in a town of 12,000 people, 12,000 students and a couple of million tourists a year. Seemed possible. But we didn't want to spend $100,000 only to find out that it didn't. So we decided to take a look at what we could do with no borrowed money and the Tumblweed operation I've described is what we came up with. >From a business point of view, the reason we bothered has to do with the fact that we're making money. And we're making that money by bringing a handcrafted beer to an area that's never had one. Ever. There've been a few brandy stills around here in the past but never a brewery! :-) > Aside from satisfying your curiosity, I find it hard to understand why one > would be so tempted, particularly in light of his admission that one can make > better beer using all grain. Emphasis on the 'can'. The point is, and what I've taken great pains to explain to my buddies here in the HBD, is that we had some hard economic realities to face in this venture. And we decided, indeed have proved, that we could create a commercially viable brewery using extract for the fermentable portion of our beers. Consider that most of us who tarry in these electronic halls have had the chance to quaff the offerings of dozens of bright, shiny, expensive brewpubs. How many times have we walked away disappointed, remarking to ourselves that our homebrew was better than that stuff? These establishments proved to me that going all-grain is no *guarantee* you're going to make better beer. I took those experiences very much to heart during the planning for Tumbleweed. So where do we go from here businesswise? This past week-end we looked at a building on the outskirts of town, complete with two walk-in coolers that are big enough to house about a dozen 10 bbl. fermenters each. We've established our reputation as decent brewers and we have people lined up at the bar to invest in a small regional keg microbrewery should we/I decide to make the plunge. A rosey scenario? Not at all. It's an exciting decision, jam-packed with reality, that we're looking square in the face right now. All because we had the balls to cut square against the grain (no pun intended) of conventional wisdom. There's nothing half-hearted about our brewery, Jack. In fact it's all heart...and blood and sweat and beers. We're doing what a lot of readers of the HBD, including me, have only been able to dream about until now. So don't think for a moment that we're having a miserable time. We're all smiles, laughing at you and all the rest of the naysayers who said it couldn't or shouldn't be done. Fire up the cough-drop pot boys! They're running out of beer downstairs!!! Again. - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Kinney Baughman | Beer is my business and baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu | I'm late for work. - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 94 15:29:53 PDT From: ELQ1%Maint%HBPP at bangate.pge.com Subject: Danny Dumps The brew formula contained herin is not mine, just forwarding it for my cousin, Folks I give you Danny Dumps.. Shoot Howdy folks, My name is Danny Dumps, I own the McKinnleyville trailer park and auto wrecking, and operator of the Dumps Homebrewery. Thru the sheer ingenuity, thrift and good hammer mechanics I have perfected the home brewery in its simplist design. First, I do a partial mash, my mash tun in a 90 cup coffee maker, the element is wired to a switch that regulates heat via a theromometer, for sparging I have a pinto engine with a 170 deg. thermostat that dribbles just the right rate of sparge water on my tun. I then mix with extract, not just any extract, Karo to be exact, and I use Karo dark for my Bock brews, both of these are available in any supermarket and ferment out a very clean crisp brew, although I have slight problems getting a good head, it is not a big social problem. On to the fermenter, since I make big batches, I have found a 15 gal crock tub with a lid that seals pretty good. After some pratice and lack of a brew shop, I have found a very good substitute for yeast, its called Rid-X tm. and available at some store and almost all hardware stores, I make a starter and pitch the whole box, I get activity in about 15 minutes. I keg, or should I say I extinguish, in other words, I fill a sterile water fire extinguisher and let it condition, the first mug of brew cleans the sediment and with the handy guage on the "keg" I can tell how much brew is left. Another handy feature is I take my "keg" to games, shows, the beach anywhere brew is not allowed. You never know when you need a fire extinguisher. These are carefully lagered about one week, and served chilled with a lemon to take the sweet bite out a bit, see I have yet to figure out a good cheap hop substitute. Until then suck a lemon, sip a brew. Next week I'll go into how I finally suceeded in getting the nut on the valve on the inside of a 7.5 gal. carboy. Happy brewing and if ever in town be sure to stop by; Danny Dumps Trailer Park, Auto Wrecker and Home Brewery. Back to you Murray.. Ed Quier for D. Dumps ELQ1 at PGE.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 1994 17:52:23 -0800 From: dyeater at wpo.borland.com Subject: A "stout" request and a lymerick I've only been reading the HBD for a few weeks but I've found it very entertaining, informative and aggrivating. The aggrivation stems from my lack of understanding of the dialect (argot?) you all speak (I don't know RIMS from bungs) as I have just begun making home brew and I'm still mighty surprised that my first batch of beer came out fairly drinkable. Even though I've only brewed two batches (haven't tasted the second one yet), I'm anxious to make a stout. Anyone out there have a good extract recipe for a stout that resembles Sheaf or Guinness? I've been drinking a lot of Sheaf lately and would really like to make something like it. As I was drinking one yesterday this lymerick came to me. I give it to you. I was tossing some compounds about To invent an elixer for gout. This mud in a beaker Tastes like wet dog and old sneaker. My Gawd! I've created a stout! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 1994 17:15:00 EDT From: mop3 at midas.ho.BOM.GOV.AU (Stephen Hudson) Subject: Partial mash techniques G'day. This is my first posting to the HBD, so please take it easy on me! My question is in relation to the partial mash techniques in Papazian's TNCJOHB. After a few years away from homebrewing (kits) I will be starting up again shortly, using the partial mash method, on the road to full-grain brewing. In his book Papazian has a section on mash-extract brews, but unfortunately one area is unclear to me. I do understand the recipes through the mashing, sparging, boiling wort, adding hops etc. However, the "Sparge into fermenter and cold water" has me stumped. I realise you have to add cold water to bring the batch up to 5 gallons, but the "sparge into fermenter" I need help on. I guess I need hot water, but how much and at what temp? If someone could please explain exactly what happens here, I'd be most thankful. BTW has anyone tried any of these recipes? TIA - -- Stephen Hudson Telephone : +61 3 669-4563 Cataloguing Section Fax : +61 3 669-4254 Bureau of Meteorology Email: S.Hudson at BoM.GOV.AU Melbourne Victoria AUSTRALIA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 7:41 EDT From: Jim_Merrill at vos.stratus.com Subject: Copper and Stainless Steel Over the weekend my father in-law, a phd chemist, noted that having copper in DIRECT contact with stainless steel causes a reaction. We called someone who works for a company that manufactures machines used in the food industry and they agreed. Something about a galvanic reaction creating a battery like situation as electrons pass from one metal to the other. He said they use primarily 316 stainless steel and that the FDA would not allow a copper to stainless connection to come in contact with any food product. He seemed to think that the stainless would leach out metals. So the big question. How does this come into play with my "currently being constructed" keg boiler ? (Stainless Steel nipple and a copper connection on the inside) Since it will be broken down after each brewing session, does the actual contact time make this negligible ? Does the PH of the wort come into factor here ? Has anyone tried to bend 1/2" SS welded tubing ? Jim Merrill Jim_Merrill at vos.Stratus.Com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 8:01:42 EDT From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: Re: Extract vs. All Grain Andy Pastuszak comments on the uninterrupted time required to make all-grain beer and I'd like to say that it doesn't have to be that way. Several have written about doing overnight mashes in the oven. My method is based on the fact that I have 3 small children who would rather play with Dad than have Dad make beer. Here's what I do: 1. I get up REAL early on a Saturday morning (~5:00 am), make some coffee (better idea than homebrew at this hour), crush the grain, heat the mash water and mash in. I use a stock pot with a copper manifold in an insulated box as my mash/lauter tun (for me it was cheaper than buying a cooler and allows me to do a step mash). I adjust the temp. and put the stock pot in the insulated box. 2. If I am doing a step mash, I leave it there for ~30 min for the protein rest & then raise to saccharification temp on the stove top. Once the mash is at saccharification temp, I put it into the insulated box. If I am doing a simple infusion mash, then of course, this part is skipped. 3. Leave it until it is convenient to do the sparge. 4. By now, the rest of the house is waking up and we do whatever we had planned for that Saturday morning. 5. 6-8 hours after starting the saccharification rest, sparge and then boil as for an extract batch. The length of the saccharification rest is based primarily on when the boys take their nap. I am very pleased with the beers I have made this way and also glad to have some weekend left after making beer. (As far as the current argument goes, I have made some very fine extract beers too). With an insulated box, I will frequently lose only a few degrees over the time of the mash. I personally do not think that that is essential. I think as long as the temp is in the right range for the first part of the mash you're o.k. According to what I recollect, most of the enzymes are denatured after a 90 min mash anyhow. I agree with Andy; when I read Miller, my response was that there was no way I would ever spend a day sitting over a pot in the kitchen making sure the temperature stays within a 2 degree window. Fortunately, there is another way. Send e-mail if you would like info on how I built my insulated box - it takes an evening to do. - -- Jim Grady grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: 6 Apr 94 7:33:28 ES From: Brian J. Cecil <Brian_J.._Cecil at wecnotes.semcor.com> Subject: HBD Testing This is a test. **EXTRACT** End of Test. :-) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 8:17:14 EDT From: Kevin Emery DSN 584-2900 <ksemery at cbda9.apgea.army.mil> Subject: Ref. Thermostat I sent this to Zymurgy, but thought I would post here. I make no guarantee for your success!! |-) Refrigerator Blues: I have only been brewing for about a year now, and just decided to try my hand at Lagering. The thermostat in my Kenmore refrigerator wasn't accurate enough for good temperature control, a necessity for lagering. All I needed to do was to install a new thermostat into the old Kenmore. Unfortunately, every homebrew supplier I phoned (Coast to Coast) said the same thing.... "We don't carry thermostats anymore", or "The company that manufactured them wasn't selling enough to be profitable and therefore discontinued the line". Not to be swayed from the task at hand, I purchased a Hunter Model 40007 Digital Thermostat at Hechingers for $29.99 and went to work. There is a number on the package to phone if you have problems which will put you in touch with one of their service representatives. The representative told me that I couldn't use the model 40007 in my refrigerator. I decided to give it a try anyway. After taking out the Kenmore light housing and thermostat, I was left with 4 wires, Black-Hot, White-Common Ground or Neutral, Blue-to the Compressor and Green-Hard Ground. The New thermostat has 5 wiring connections. RH-Red, Rc-Blue, W-White, Y-Yellow and G-Green. I connected the Hot (black) wire of the Kenmore to the RH-Red terminal of the thermostat, and the Blue wire from the compressor to the Yellow terminal. I then finished out the circuit by splitting the black lead at the thermostat connection and running it to the push-button light switch. The switch in turn is connected to the light socket, and the circuit is completed when the Ground (white) wire is connected to the light socket. I mounted the Thermostat on the back wall inside the refrigerator. I brewed a lager yesterday, and have the brew fermenting in the refrigerator at 50 degrees. The new thermostat is working beautifully. I can't wait to try my lager!!! I have to admit that I can't hang a picture straight, so if I can do this, anybody can! Notes about the Model 40007 Digital Thermostat: 1. It will only display temp from 32 to 95 degrees. 2. It can only be set from 40 to 90 degrees. 3. It requires 3 AA batteries. 4. It will cycle when the temperature rises 2 degrees above the temp setting Kevin S. Emery Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 09:09:16 EDT From: 06-Apr-1994 0858 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> Subject: irish moss/all grain time/extract vs. all-grain >Date: Tue, 5 Apr 94 09:18 EST >From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> >Subject: Extract vs. All Grain [...] >if I ever will be. There is no other hobby that I have that requires >me to use 8 hours or so at a shot without being able to stop. I'm able to do an all-grain batch, start to finish, in 3-4 hours, depending on the problems I run into. The best time was 3 hrs, the worst 4 hrs. This includes clean up. I do a single-temp mash for 1 hr and have had extraction rates of about 28 pts - which isn't too bad. sparge for about 20-30 mins, boil an hour, chill (10 mins), siphon into the fermenter, and clean up (i do clean up along the way during the boil, etc). it doesn't have to take 8 hours! and, during my mash, i'm free to eat breakfast, work on the car, etc. >Date: Tue, 5 Apr 1994 07:12:22 -0700 (PDT) >From: gummitch at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) >Subject: Re: Irish Moss (again?) and extract beers >And to beat the Irish Moss horse to death: I've used it with and without >protein rests and I've used it with a reasonably wide variety of malts. >In the quantities that George Fix suggested and that I've passed along, Do you add the IM at points other than the last 10-15 mins of the boil? If so, when, how much and why? >Date: Tue, 5 Apr 94 12:16 CDT >From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) >Subject: DEATH THREATS [...] > >From: <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> > > >I support any brewpub that makes good brew. I don't care if they make > it with extracts or all-grain. Good brew is good brew. > > One can only conclude that you think you are arguing we me or just felt like > saying that. Unfortunately, it is nonresponsive to my question. I'm not arguing with anybody. I offered up my response as just another data point, that's all. lighten up mon. >Date: Tue, 05 Apr 94 13:40:25 EDT >From: gorman at aol.com >Subject: Side-by-Side refrigerator tips >2. I'm thinking of putting my CO2 tank in the freezer side and drilling a >hole for the air hose in the dividing wall. Any idea whether this is a good >or bad idea? I don't suggest this. Doesn't CO2 change its behavior slightly when cooled? I have my CO2 tank outside the fridge. >3. I'm thinking of drilling a hole in either the door or the side of the >refrigerator half for a tap. Any advice on this? It is pretty easy. usually you have to drill through some sheet metal, some insulation, and finally the plastic inside wall (might be metal). they make taps with various length shafts - so, you need to get a rough handle on how thick your fridge wall is. pretty easy to do, IMO. jc Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 94 09:55:57 EST From: carlsont at GVSU.EDU (TODD CARLSON) Subject: beer competitions I have recently brewed my best ever ale and would like to get some feedback from experienced judges by entering it in a homebrew competition (which I have never done before). Do I have to become a memeber of a local or national homebrewing club/association to enter competitions? How much does it cost to enter? How do I send my beer to a competition? Where are there competitions in the midwest region? Thanks todd carlsont at gvsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 09:20:30 -0500 From: David Deaven <deaven at ishmael.ameslab.gov> Subject: RE: temp controller Some folks were looking to design their own temperature controller, so I thought I'd add my $0.02. I was able to cheaply convert an old freezer into a fridge by just hooking up an old thermostat (used for house heat/cool) to a relay bought from Radio Shack. The 'stat was not able to maintain 40F (how many folks keep their house at that temp?) but I just bent the bimetallic strip inside, and it now works like a champ in my father's home brewery. Just mount the 'stat inside the freezer, and put the relay outside in a safe metal box. Even if you buy the 'stat, this solution is less expensive than others I've seen. The temp. reading on the face of the 'stat is of course inaccurate, but I assume you own a thermometer to re-calibrate it. David Deaven deaven at ishmael.ameslab.gov A504 Physics tel 515-294-6878 Ames Laboratory fax 515-294-0689 Ames IA 50011 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 10:26 EST From: "Glen Flowers 601-7253, LFF-139" <GFLOWERS at LANDO.HNS.COM> Subject: lambic recipes request anybody got a good (preferably tested) lambic recipe? if you'd rather not post to the digest you can e-mail me at: GFLOWERS at LANDO.HNS.COM Cheers, Glen Flowers Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 1994 07:34:06 +0900 From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) Subject: 15 gal sanke kegs as fermenters I would be interested in hearing peoples experiences with using 15 gal sanke kegs as primary fermenters. After years of using carboys I'm concidering switching to these 1/2 barrel kegs. Most of my reasons stem from the amount of blowoff I have from the carboys. A 20% loss of beer is starting to really bug me. Seems one could mount a valve on the underside of the keg and pretty much use the keg without any other modification except the removal of the valve assembly. I guess a stopper could be used to fashion an air lock or blow off tube. I would plan on puting the same 10 gals in this new fermenter and that would get me a 33% head space. As for the cleaning I would do all the cleaning chemically. I have been using TSP and hot water and have had great results with it. Cheers, Bob Jones bjones at novax.llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 07:51:13 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: RE: temp controller >>>>> "Bill" == William Nichols <bnichols at mlab.win.net> writes: Bill> Geoff Scott writes: >> Anyone have straightforward plans for a thermostat controller >> like the Airstat? A friend is looking with envy at the old >> Honeywell that I have my beer fridge plugged into. We would >> build one if anyone has a plan with a reasonably easy to obtain >> parts list. While I like to rummage through electronic surplus >> stores as much as next guy, I dont have much confidence in our >> ability to make good substitutions. Bill> If it doesn't come with a TC you have to know what kind it needs, Bill> there are many. If the input is 3 wires, it takes an RTD instead. Bill> An RTD is similar to a TC exept that it varies its resistance with Bill> temperature instead of voltage. Either kind can be purchased from Bill> a lab supply for $30 - $50 If you are thinking of building your own, I suggest that you use a thermistor rather than a RTD. An RTD has a *much* smaller range of resistance change for the same temperature change than a thermistor and it is therfore easier to build a circuit using a thermistor than an RTD (IMHO). dion Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 07:58:37 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: Keg Poppet O-ring Removal? >>>>> "Glenn" == GANDE <GANDE at slims.attmail.com> writes: [ paraphrased - "How do I remove a bad poppet" ] Remove the valve body from the keg. Set the valve body on a hard surface with the poppet up and the threaded end down. Get a 1/4" pinpunch or a phillips screwdriver or a 1/4" bolt and push down firmly and steadily on the poppet in the top of the valve body. It will click and drop out. Insertion is just the reverse, put the valve body threaded end up, insert the poppet in upside down, and push it gently in until it clicks. When inserting, you should not use a screwdriver because you need something with a flat end so you can push the poppet in squarely. Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 07:57:12 PDT From: msharp at Synopsys.COM (Michael Sharp) Subject: EBC references David Taylor <dptaylor at lamar.ColoState.EDU> writes: >Subject: EBC methods reference > I am looking for the EBC standard methods reference. Can anyone > give me a more complete reference for the standard analytical methods used > by European Brewers? I am interested in obtaining a copy. Here is some work from the Mivrobiological Methods Sub-Committee: EBC Analytica Microbiologica J. Inst. Brew., March-April, 1977, Vol. 83, pp. 109-118 EBC Analytica Microbiologica: Part II J. Inst. Brew., September-Octover, 1981, Vol. 87, pp.303-321 EBC Analytica Microbiologica: Part II Continued J. Inst. Brew., July-August, 1984, Vol. 90, pp. 268-271 EBC Analytica Microbiologica: Part III J. Inst. Brew., July-August, 1984, Vol. 90, pp. 272-276 --Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 10:20:05 -0500 From: dmorey at iastate.edu Subject: *Malt Berverages* Just a short comment everyone, Zima is a malt beverage since its alcohol is derived from malt. This doesn't mean that it will taste like beer! Do wine coolers taste like beer? NO, but did you know that many of them use MALT derived alcohol? They do this because malt is MUCH cheaper than fruit. Anyone who has made a fruit beer from fresh fruit can tell you this. The people at Zima are just using this fact as a marketing technique - plain and simple. Personally, I have noe desire to try Zima since there is so many other beers out there for me to enjoy. But to each there own. I just thought I would let you know that there are many other *malt beverages* out there and if you ask me where I heard it or read it, I will be forced to tell that some PINK ELEPHANTS told me. I'm going to where streams of whiskey are flowing. - The Pouges Dan Morey Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 07:47:41 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: Modifying a Gott/Rubbermaid 5 gallon cooler >>>>> "Jay" == Jay Lonner <8635660 at NESSIE.CC.WWU.EDU> writes: Jay> Is there a recommended way to install a 3" (or so) long piece of Jay> 3/8" copper tubing in a 5 gallon cooler, in place of the stock Jay> push-button spout thingie? Getting the old spout out is no Jay> problem, but I'm kind of stuck with the next phase of this Jay> modification. At this point I'm thinking of drilling out a Jay> rubber stopper to accomodate the copper tubing and just ramming Jay> it in the hole left by the removal of the original spout, but Jay> that seems inelegant and dangerous (I can just see the stopper Jay> coming out -- whoosh! goes my sparge water all over the Jay> floor...). Jay> Thanks oodles for your suggestions. Jay> Jay. I am assuming that you will be doing something else with the copper tubing than just letting it rest on the bottom? Are you using this as a mash tun? Lauter tun ? Both? The reason I ask is that I have a 10 gal. Gott cooler and have installed a bulkhead fitting to turn it into a mash/lauter tun. If I know what you are trying to do, I should be able to give you instructions on what I did, or modify them to suit your intended use. dion Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: 6 Apr 94 16:35:34 GMT From: GANDE at slims.attmail.com Subject: Kill Jack Schmidling? Why does everyone jump all over Jack Schmidling? I've been reading and posting to the HBD for 2 years now and whenever he say's ANYTHING, a zillion posts are made to dispute his comments. I don't always agree with his statements, but that's because I have a different belief on how something is done. The posts I've seen recently (and there's been a few) are getting so petty as to argue syntax, who said what, etc. I often wonder that if we all discussed these issues face to face that tones and comments would be much less defensive. On the other hand, disputing any of Jack's statements only seems to set him off. Am I the only one tired of paying to read bantering, endless quotes, and rhetorical responses? Take it to ALT.BEER. If I'm out of line, you can flame me at GANDE at SLIMS.ATTMAIL.COM, sorry for the BW consumption.... ...Glenn - ---- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 11:32:52 -0400 From: tron!eclus.dnet!pershall at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Re : Raspberry Porter Lawrence, Last year I brewed a Raspberry Stout, following the recipe for Cherry Fever Stout in Papazian's "Complete Joy of Homebrewing", except that I substituted 5 lbs. of frozen raspberries (it was out of season for fresh raspberries). At the end of the boil, I removed my brewpot from the burner, dumped all the (thawed) raspberries into the pot, put the lid on it, and let them steep for 15 minutes. I then dumped the contents of the brewpot (raspberries included) into the cold water in my carboy and pitched the yeast when cool. The entire fermentation was in the primary (about three weeks as I recall), and the resulting beer had a very noticable raspberry flavor (no astringency or off-flavors that I could discern). I just drank the last bottle (a year later), and it still tasted great (although the raspberry flavor had diminished somewhat). The only problem I encountered was during the initial fermentation. I came downstairs one day after work, and found that the blow-off hose had become clogged with raspberry goo and enough pressure had built up to blow off the rubber hood on the fermenter -- raspberries and foam were everywhere!! (I really should have used a larger diameter blow-off hose than the standard 3/8 inch stuff). Incidentally, I brewed the same recipe with raspberry extract a few months ago, and acheived similar results (minus the blow-off problem, of course). Hopefully this has been helpful. -- Andy (pershall at eclus.bwi.wec.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 10:52:25 EST From: JEBURNS at ucs.indiana.edu Subject: Coffee Brew and Keg Parts I have been considering adding ground coffee beans to the grains during the sparging process, maybe some Jamaican Blue Mountain or other good bean. If anyone has a recipe that uses coffee and has turned out well send me a post, or if you have tried this and want to warn me.... Also, I would like an address for inexpensive keg parts and supplies. I had the address of a place in Texas, but they have gone out of business. I have two Cornelius kegs that I would like to start using.... Lastly, I know this has been comented on already but on the Michael Jackson Beer Hunter series they tour several British brewpub type operations that use extracts only. It is probably very cheap to get extracts there since many of the manufacturers are close at hand. They showed the guy climbing up a ladder and dumping this bucket of syrup into a steaming vat. The "brewery" was in what looked like an old chicken coop. I guess these small extract brewpubs are pretty common over there. Something to do with high taxes on bottled beer. It looked like they were just shooting for something that could be consumed almost as soon as it was brewed. Dave in Bloomington jeburns at ucs.indiana.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 12:34:37 EDT From: sdlsb::73410 at sdlcc (Carl Howes) Subject: Changing Gotts Jay Lonner asks about replacing the stock spout in his Gott cooler. Having just done this last week I offer the following. Get a 1/2 inch bulkhead fitting and two 1 inch o-rings. Drill the spigot hole out to 1 inch diameter. The fitting is a two piece affair consisting of a hollow (1/2 inch I.D.) shaft and a nut. Put the shaft through the hole in the cooler and tighten the nut with an o-ring on each side of the cooler wall. To complete the picture, I soldered a short piece of pipe and a 3/8 hose barb to the outside end and assembled (tinkertoy style - no solder) a rectangular manifold from 1/2 inch pipe and elbows for the inside which just fits, and rests on, the bottom of the cooler. As a cautionary note, make sure the solder you use meets federal standards under the Safe Drinking Water Act. The ones that do will be so labelled and cost more. Some of the ones that don't are outright poisonous. Have fun! Carl 73410 at sdlcc.msd.ray.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 1994 11:31:05 MEZ From: Roland Tropper <tropper at EDVZ.SBG.AC.AT> Subject: I'm new and want to brew beer Hi brewers, After subscribing to HBD I also decided to brew (or better try to brew) beer but I'm totally new in this field. I'd appreciate it if somebody could tell my which tools I need, where I could get recipies and all the other important things I don't know about. Thank you very much, Roland Tropper Salzburg, Austria Please e-mail to: Tropper at dsb835.edvz.sbg.ac.at or post. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 10:08:18 PDT From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros) Subject: lagering What is the fermentation schedule for a lager? when does the diacetyl rest come in? My guess is something like: 1. primary at around 50F for a week 2. secondary at 50F for another week 3. diacetyl rest for two days at 58F 4. slowly lower temperature to 34F for two or three weeks Note that 2,3,and4 are all in the same carboy. correct? Do people worry about sucking in the water in the air lock as the temperature is lowered in step 4? And to repeat someone's question from a week ago, what if you bottle/keg after step 3 and then lager for two or three weeks? BTW, I'm talking specifically about a 1.068 bock Thanks. - Bryan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 94 12:07:48 CDT From: "Paul Sovcik, Pharm.D." <U18183%UICVM at UIC.EDU> Subject: First mash questions Well, I finally was able to do my first partial mash. I am making a Helles Bock (kinda...) and used 5 lbs. of Pilsner malt (Dewolf-Cosyns) and 6 lbs. of NW gold extract for a 5 1/2 gallon batch. Used Wyeast 2206. Unfortunately, while preparing the mash, I had some major distractions that affected the process greatly. First, I was taking care of my two month old daughter, and when she needs to eat, she doesnt care about needing to adjust temperature, etc... The second distraction was the Cubs opener on TV. Especially with Tuffy Rhodes... Anyway, here were my variations from Miller's instructions. How will each variation affect the final product? 1) My protien rest was done at 120 degrees, but the rest lasted TWO hours instead of one. 2) My initial strike temp for the mash was 150 degrees, but when I poured it into the cooler, the temp went down to 145. Due to the hungry child, this sat for 45 minutes. I then figured it may be too low of a temp, so I reheated the whole mess to 155 degrees and mashed again for an hour (the temp dropped to 150 within the hour). Did it "overmash"? Is that possible? 3) I sparged via kitchen strainer as per Millers instructions and got a terrible extraction rate (My original gravity was 1.062) probably because of the sparge technique and my impatience at the time this whole thing was taking. I wondered as I did this... did letting the sparge runoff drip into the brewpot give me major HSA? Thanks in advance for the replies. BTW, it is currently fermenting at 48 degrees with no sign of activity yet after 36 hours. I pitched a quart of yeast that didnt look like it was working too hard after a 36 hour starter. Should I be worrying? Its my first lager, too. -Paul Sovcik U18183 at uicvm.uic.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Apr 1994 13:27:59 -0600 (CST) From: SWEENERB at memstvx1.memst.edu Subject: More about all-grain >Date: Tue, 5 Apr 94 09:18 EST >From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> >Subject: Extract vs. All Grain > >Well, there's been a lot of debate on the extract vs. all grain issue. >I only have 4 batches to my credit, but I've read a lot of material on >brewing before I got started. I've never made a kit beer and went >straight for the extract/specialty grain method of brewing. > >Well, I've read just about all I can read on All Grain, Noonan, >Papzian, Miller, BT, Zymurgy, and I've come to one conclusion. All >grain brewing takes a damn long time! Much too long if you have >children who belong to little league, or the scouts, or you have a >significant other that uses the kitchen to, say, cook meals. > >All grain in my household would involve me setting up house in my >basement and using an entire Saturday to make my beer "better." I'm >not willing to make that kind of commitment to my brew. I don't know >if I ever will be. There is no other hobby that I have that requires >me to use 8 hours or so at a shot without being able to stop. > >As a newbie, I must tell you that I am very turned off by all grain >brewing (partial mash, maybe). because of the time and the expense >involved in building a "mini-kitchen" in my basement. > >That's my 2 cents on the issue. > >Prosit! >Andy Pastuszak > I am not trying to heat up the all-grain vs. extract discussion, but merely to clarify what I feel are some misconceptions about all-grain brewing which were detailed nicely by Andy (Thanks). I put the following on r.c.b a few days ago after someone else listed this 8 hour requirement for doing an all-grain batch. My record for an all-grain batch is less than 4 1/2 hours as detailed below. Keep in mind that for a significant part of this time (mashing) you don't have to be present (sometimes I go for a run): 20 min - Crush grains in Corona mill (start heating water for mash too) 70 min - add water to grain & mash; begin heating sparge water 45 min - drain mash and sparge 60 min - boil 20 min - cool with wort chiller 10 min - siphon into carboy and pitch yeast 20 min - final clean up That is a total of 4 hours 5 minutes, with the 2 hours and 15 minutes prior to the boil the only time added to what I used to do for extract brewing. I know this is a shorter boil (considering this boil was actually only about 50 minutes with pre-boil time), sparge and mash time than many people prefer, but it will produce pretty good beer nonetheless. Even extending to mash to 90 minutes, the sparge to 1 hour and the boil to 90 minutes will add only a little more than an hour to this total time. I like all-grain brewing as much for the, in my case, better results as for giving me a feeling of satisfaction that I did not get when doing extract batches. Maybe its the idea that I am closely emulating the way most of the beers I prefer are made. If final results are the main objective, I have tasted some very good extract beers. As for equipment, the only extra pieces I have are a corona mill, a 5 gal. Gott cooler and a bunch of grain (I did start out with a 40qt enamel brewing pot so I didn't have to replace that). Cost: corona $45; gott - $20; other misc things like my homemade immersion chiller -$50. For me cost/batch for all-grain vs. extract is significant, typically about $10 per batch cheaper for all-grain. So rough and dirty that's about 12 batches to breakeven. All my stuff including 3 kegs fits in a small coat closet. For me the difference in my beer quality was worth the additional time and since its a lot cheaper per batch going all-grain I can brew more beer! Sorry to take up the bandwidth, but I was intimidated about making the switch to all-grain due to posts like Andy's for a long time so I felt the need to respond. Bob Sweeney sweenerb at msuvx1.memst.edu The University of Memphis Down by the river, I shot my baby - N. Young I would kill everyone in this room for a single drop of sweet beer. - H. Simpson Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 94 14:33:08 EDT From: WIESEN at VAX2.DNET.ICD.Teradyne.COM (Dan `Hefe' Wiesen) Subject: [homebrewed] temp controllers Having spent a good deal of time noodling about temperature controllers a la the Hunter AirStat, here are some thoughts. When I heard here that the AirStat was going out of production, I thought that it would be a good time to investigate the comercial feasability of a design I had floating around in a notebook. I had drawn up a temp controller with the features that I wanted to see: fractional degree accuracy, digital display of fridge temp and desired temp in C or F, hysteresis to reduce cycling of the compressor, the ability to set desired temp with a dial and plug & play ease of use. Trouble was that the cost for the bill of material, at wholesale, was ~$80. Add labor, overhead, things like shipping and the cost of getting of one of these babies to the customer looked to be over $100. As a homebrewer, I would find it hard to swallow shelling out that kind of money for something that replaces the AirStat that some fortuitous HBD readers were able to buy for as little as $19. So much for quitting my day job. When I inherit a 1950 Westinghouse, I'll probably build one of these, just for the self satisfaction... Bill Nichols responds to Geoff Scott asking for controller plans. Bill talks about the contact rating for switching the AC. He's right about this being an area of concern. Whatever you use to interupt the AC will be hot switching an inductive load [=big spark]. A reasonable rule of thumb is to use contacts that are rated at 2 to 3 times the load current. I don't like disclaimers, they make me feel unclean, but if you don't know what you are doing, please don't play with AC. Keeping the preceding caveat in mind, here's an approach for an easystat (tm). Use an adjustable, mechanical, bimetalic thermal switch, like ones found in older room heat thermostats to trigger a relay driver circuit. Use the relay driver to operate the coil of a relay capable of switching the compressor power. To make this work, you will need to set the existing fridge/freezer control to its coldest setting. You will also need to get a thermometer and spend time calibrating your thermostat. One of the problems I forsee, is finding a thermostat that operates around 30-50F. I would try to modify the switch to extend its range. Good luck. Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 13:46:43 -0500 (CDT) From: Rich Larsen <richl at access1.speedway.net> Subject: Irish Moss Steve Armbrust <Steve_Armbrust at ccm.hf.intel.com> asks : >I've heard the discussions about the value of Irish Moss, but I've >stopped using it because I think I can taste the difference between my >own beers that were brewed using it and those that weren't. Those that >used Irish moss had a slight unpleasant taste that I couldn't explain >away otherwise. I'd rather have a little haze than an off flavor. > >So my question is, has anyone else observed this? Or, am I not using >Irish moss correctly? (I add IM with 15 minutes left to the boil, about >1 teaspoon, chill with an immersion chiller, and ladle into a carboy >through a screen, using the whole hops that accumulate to filter out >what shouldn't be there.) I've never noticed a difference in flavor of the beer, but I have noticed a dramatic change in the aroma coming off of the boil pot. The hop aroma, seems to change to a harsher smell. I wonder if this is also being transmitted into the final beer. According to other sources, you should increase the amount to around 1/2 tablespoons, or according to Rodney Morris (CI$ cir 1991) you should use 900mg if you have a scale available. I haven't noticed a dramatic difference between 1 tsp up to 1 Tbl in the clearing effect. I once used 1 Tbl IM and 2 Tbl Polyclar in secondary before kegging. The result managed to scrub out so much protein that I removed all head retention. Other observations I've made are that it is definitly seaweed. I found a tiny shell in among the flakes. (I guess this isn't the purified stuff huh Al? :-) ) Also, I rehydrated the stuff for the first time 30 minutes before addition and it didn't seem to make any difference. It worked just as well as if I had added it dry. Without IM the hot break particles seem to be smaller, but there is just as much. A question... Why are the flakes superior to the powder? The flakes tend to clog my aerator nozzle on my siphon hose. A real PITA. => Rich Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514 The Blind Dog Brewery "HomeBrewPub", Midlothian, IL (Not a commercial establishment) "I never drink... Wine." Bela Lugosi as Dracula Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1392, 04/07/94