HOMEBREW Digest #1411 Fri 29 April 1994

Digest #1410 Digest #1412

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  5 gallon vs 6.7 gallon carboys for the primary ... (Chris Lyons)
  Malt Extracts (Truth in Labelling) (Norman Farrell)
  Don't try this at home kids (John Lenz) jel3 at cornell.edu
  Re: aeration (Jeff Frane)
  Attenuation of #1968: Special London Ale Yeast (Mark Evans)
  ORACLE SPEAK (Jack Schmidling)
  O2 aeration of water before boil (HBD#1409) ("Christopher V. Sack")
  Re: Welding O2 (Robert Schultz)
  More on AmAleYeast... (RONALD DWELLE)
  Saving H2O w/Chiller / Poor Extraction (npyle)
  No Head in brew. (rnarvaez)
  Spider mites on hops (Allen Ford)
  Rehydrating Irish Moss (Al Marshall)
  Europe (Bjorn Throstur Vilhjalmsson)
  Hunter Airstats (Bob Jones)
  HSA -- what is the critical temp? (Robert Schultz)
  Any pubs/breweries in Williamstown, Mass? (BAIER_T)
  Duvel Belgian Ale (Murray Knudson)
  propane storage (Bryan L. Gros)
  open ferment, pH, pizza stone (TODD CARLSON)
  Madison, WI competition (brewing chemist Mitch)
  separate beer digests for extract and grain brewers ("Joan Donohue" )
  Cheapest Source for 3 Gallon Soda Kegs (hanna)
  mashing specialty dark grains ("Mr. Dudley")
  Recipe Request ("Robucci, Adam F.")
  Re: IM and the EasySparger ("Mark B. Alston")
  Re: Wort Chillers when water shortages are a problem (Bob Clancy)
  What's in Extracts? (bronson)
   (Haselhorst Brent A)
  brewpubs in Williamsburg, Va? (CHRIS KEITH)
  multimediabrewing (BadAssAstronomer)
  My $.02 (ambroser)
  SATB / Adding Bitterness / Water Conservation (Alan_Marshall)
  Toxic Zymurgy (Bob Jones)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 08:38:44 EDT From: Chris Lyons <Chris.Lyons at analog.com> Subject: 5 gallon vs 6.7 gallon carboys for the primary ... Christopher Jackson writes in HBD 1409: > I'm curious whether there's any sort of consensus on the best container for > primary fermentation of a 5 gallon batch. > (... 5 vs 6.7 glass carboys) No consensus, but I'm sure you were actually fishing for thoughts. Most will probably center around blowoff & head loss theories. I hope to add a different consideration. Just a thought about which carboy to get. I have both the 5 & 6.7 gallon versions and now do my primary fermentation in the 6.7 & secondary fermentation in the 5. Why? Because I reuse the slurry. If you read back a few postings from yours in today's hbd you will find an article that mentions that its important to use a large yeast count. What I do is perform the primary ferment in the 6.7 gallon carboy. When the batch is ready to be transferred to the secondary I brew another batch. When the next batch is chilled and ready for transfer to the primary, I transfer the contents of the 6.7 carboy into a 5 gallon secondary and leave the "sludge" behind. This sludge is the yeast starter for the next batch. I then dump the new batch onto the yeast sludge and fermentation is evident within minutes. The reason I use a 6.7 gallon caboy for the primary is that the yeast cake will increase in volume over several batches (I typically repeat the sequence 6 times before I begin a new yeast). I have done this using both liquid & dry yeast as the initial yeast and have had excellent results. Just something to consider in the decision process, Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 07:46:05 -0500 From: nfarrell at ppco.com (Norman Farrell) Subject: Malt Extracts (Truth in Labelling) Norm Pyle asks about malt extract contents: >Is this too much? They could provide extract numbers, color numbers, and a >whole slew of other information too, if they wanted. Anybody want to bend >the ears of the guys at Briess or Munton&Fison, et. al.??? I agree completely. AHA has set up a project to boil and analyze 25 different malt extracts (both liquid and dry). Just Brew It. club members will boil all the extracts under as similar conditions as possible and take a 500 ml. sample. The samples will be sent to Siebel Inst. for testing. I have not seen to full list of properties for testing but I will try to find out. Results could be published in the Winter zymurgy. Best Regards, Norman (nfarrell at ppco.com) May your last beer be your best! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 04:54:10 -0400 From: (John Lenz) jel3 at cornell.edu Subject: Don't try this at home kids Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> writes: >. . . bit suprised to read that they didnt like cask hopping at >"higher levels". They said they settled on 1/6th of an oz per keg, >if I remember right, claiming a tinny effect. I have used up to 40 >oz in a 5 gal keg with no tinny effects, this is with East KEnt >Goldings. Well Jim, I think you have just created a new definition for the term hop head. Were these pellets, plugs, or whole flowers? Did you have to use a marble in the bag to keep it from floating? Has Mark Garetz been in touch to get information for his forthcoming book? Has Coyote been in touch for the recipe, in hopes that the critters don't decimate his harvest this year? Op uw gezondheid, John Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Apr 94 13:17:57 GMT From: cssc!cong at scuzzy.attmail.com (brew ) Full-Name: brew Subject: Attention N.J. Hombrewers Attention N.J. Hombrewers The Brunswick Brew Club is having a Homebrew Bar-B-Que. Addmission will be $5.00. Please bring a couple of bottles of your favorite Homebrew. We will be serving the usual Bar-B-Que fair. Hamburgers, Hotdogs, P-Salad .....etc. For directions please Email me at the above address. The Date is Thursday May 19. We have meetings every third Thursday of the month. There will be an extract Brewing Demonstration for beginners. You experienced Brewers will enjoy more advanced topics. Chow Down and Drink Homebrews and Be Merry! cong Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 06:45:54 -0700 (PDT) From: gummitch at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Re: aeration Jay Weissler wrote: > Cold water from the tap is usually highly aerated. If you pour a > partial boil into a primary 1/3 to 1/2 filled with cold tap water you > should have sufficient aeration. > You might also have sufficent extraneous microorganisms to spoil your beer. Extract brewers doing a partial boil should make sure that *all* the water they're using is pre-boiled. Ask your local water bureau -- even they can't insure that *everything* has been kilt before it gets to your warm, sweet, comfy wort (bacteria heaven) where they'll have plenty of opportunity to multiply. And the water bureau makes that attempt with chlorine (sometimes lots of it), and boiling helps drive off the chlorine. > I do not understand why anyone would want to pump air into their > beer. I put an airlock on my fermenters to keep air out. Pumping air > in makes little sense to me and those I know who tried it, saw no > differences. If memory serves, yeast becomes anerobic soon after > start up so continued addition of air may actually hurt. Look up the section on fermentation in George Fix's "Principles of Brewing Science" for an explanation of the necessity of oxygen in good fermentation. No one is suggesting (as far as I've seen) adding oxygen beyond the pitching stage. By the way, no one, NO ONE, wants to pump air into their "beer" -- we're talking about cold wort, at the pre-fermentation stages. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 08:34:40 -600 (CDT) From: Mark Evans <evanms at lcac1.loras.edu> Subject: Attenuation of #1968: Special London Ale Yeast I wonder if anyone can relate their experiences with the new wyeast Special London Ale Culture. I pitched it to a typical Pale Ale recipe that had a average OG of about 1.048. Everyting about the mash was normal. I got a good vigorous ferment, though not a real boiler. After six days in the primary and four in the second, I expect to be at a target # for a FG. However the reading is only about 1.018 and the ferment looks pretty well done (oh maybe i could squeeze a point or two more out of it over the next few days. Question: the strain is promoted as rich, full, malty. Does this mean low-medium attenuation and a higher than normal (normal in my book is 1.010-12) Final Gravity? The Raw taste check is okay, considering the stage. Should I pitch in some dry yeast to squeeze out a couple more points? My instinct and my worry level--which is low--says no. I've heard great things about this strain and I'm dying to get in the bottle and get it to the summer table. Responez vous by private E-mail or to the list. Thanks. Brewfully yours, Mark Evans <evanms at lcac1.loras.edu> Dubuque, Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 09:12 CDT From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: ORACLE SPEAK >From: cole at nevism.nevis.columbia.edu >Subject: Sparge water ph, Jack's contention > In the last HBD Jack restated his claim that sparge water does not need to be acidified as the "buffering" action of the mash will keep the ph level up (paraphrased). If you insist on using my name in vain, kindly read what I say carefully before you use it as an excuse to satisfy your own ego. I said no such thing and (paraphrased) does not get you off the hook. It hardly seems worth once more, repeating what I said but I can probably paraphrase it a bit more accurately and it certainly will be the last time I try. I said something to the effect that just because the pH of the sparge/mash water is beyond the "normal" range, does not mean that it is necessary to adjust it before using it. I suggested brewing a batch first to see if there is a problem and as a reference point if adjustments are made in future batches. Your article is interesting in and of itself but to drag me into it to bolster your own ego, is simply a waste of bandwidth. > I welcome all technical comments on the above, especially from those who REALLY know what they are talking about. Please direct all flames to /dev/null. I suggest you should of thought of that when you wrote your article. You lit the flame by unnecessarly turning it into a personal attack. I get lots of these kinds of lectures and it's kind of fun to practice what I have leaned. js Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 10:26:25 -0400 (EDT) From: "Christopher V. Sack" <cvsack at mailbox.syr.edu> Subject: O2 aeration of water before boil (HBD#1409) On Wed, 27 Apr 1994, Jonathan Peakall wrote: > > I have been folwing the aretion thread, and thought of another possible way > to areate. What if I took a corny keg, filled it with water, and pressurized > it for a day or so with O2 from my welding tank? Would the boil remove all > the O2. I actually add most of my water during sparging, so I could get away > with it anyway. It seems this method would have two advantages: The O2 would > be sterile, and the amount of O2 could be controlled. What do you folks think? > > Jonathan (Lo-Tech Brewing, Inc.) Johnathan, Your method will oxygenate the water, just as force carbonation carbonates it. But when the wort is boiled, *ALL* dissolved gas is removed from the liquid. The only gas present in the boil is water vapor (steam) which contains some of the organic components from the wort that happen to dissolve into the water vapor bubbles as the bubbles rise to the surface. May I cautiously suggest using your method to oxygenate the wort after the boil. Use the same procedure as force carbonation, but less pressure. Or, a SS bubbling stone attached to your O2 tank (since you already have one) would also work very well. The small bubbles increase the surface area between water and gas, thus increasing O2 transfer. Within 15-20 minutes, your wort should be at over 50% O2 saturation. Remember previous posts said that over 25% O2 sat. did not improve the fermentation rate. The SS airstone attached to an aquarium pump (with an inline charcoal filter) will get you up to 20% O2 sat., (since the air is 20% O2, 80% N2) within 30 min. I personally use the air pump method and do two 20 min. sessions, once before pitching, and then the next morning just for good measure. ___ ___ Sincerely, / ) | / / ) __ __ | Christopher V. Sack Chris / | / (___ __ ) / )| / Chemistry Dept. / | / ) / / / | / S.U.N.Y.-E.S.F. (____/* |/* (____/ (__\ (__/ |/ \ <cvsack at lor.syr.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 08:25:33 -0600 (CST) From: Robert Schultz <Robert.Schultz at usask.ca> Subject: Re: Welding O2 I would think that boiling will drive off all of the disolved O2. Even heating it to 170F for sparging will likely rid most of the O2(imho) -- not to mention the full hour boil. However, as one is racking to the primary, it may be a good idea to bubble your welding O2 into the sweet wort. This should be a better source of oxygen than using an aquarium pump and pumping RAW air & all the air-borne nasties through the wort. Rob. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ Robert.Schultz at usask.ca, Senior Research Analyst, University of Saskatchewan ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ "I'm going off half-cocked? I'm going off half-cocked? ... ~ ~ Well, Mother was right - You can't argue with a shotgun." - Gary Larson ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 10:51:41 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: More on AmAleYeast... Regarding the several comments on 1056 American Ale yeast, lemme try this idea out on you all: my impression is that 1056 is much more temperature sensitive than other ale yeasts, especially on the cool side. Seems if I pitch a little late, after wort temp has fallen, 1056 is terribly slow to get going. Also, I just had an over-prime problem with a batch (bottled during a Feb cold snap), and I suspect the 1056 fooled me by quitting before the ferment was done. Never seem to have these problems with Canadian Ale yeast and English (Whitbread) which are the two other ale yeasts I use most of the time. What think ye, o learned ones? Ron Dwelle (dweller at gvsu.edu) How easy can the barley-bree Cement the quarrel! Tis aye the cheapest lawyer's fee To taste the barrel. --Bobbie Burns Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 9:22:43 MDT From: npyle at n33.ecae.stortek.com Subject: Saving H2O w/Chiller / Poor Extraction I have to say right from the start that I think using cat litter in beer is disgusting! Besides, I'm allergic to cats! ;O) ** One solution to Brett Shorten's farmer friend's drought/chiller problem is a recirculation pump. I don't have the details, but I believe John Palmer uses one (palmer#d#john at ssdgwy.mdc.com). Bug him for the details; I'm sure he won't mind... OR... He could collect the outflow (hot) water and use it for other things like cleaning up afterwards (I do). He could even dump it back into his tank; it's only been run through some copper. ** As to Will Smith's extraction woes: the first batch, which you achieved 25 pts/lb/gallon is pretty normal, especially if the 5 gallons of 1.050 wort was after the boil, etc. You have some lost wort in the kettle (I do) and in the hops, which pulls the numbers down. I suspect before the boil you had 26-27 pts., which isn't bad at all, though you could push it up a little with practice. The second batch I calculated 13 pts/lb/gallon. The only thing I can think of here is that you didn't get full conversion in your mash (did you do a starch test?). Maybe your temperature was a little higher than you thought and the enzymes deactivated too quickly. As to soft water, get some pH papers and check the pH of the mash. This could negatively affect conversion if its not close to 5. Good Luck. Cheers, Norm = npyle at n33.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 11:32:02 -0500 From: rnarvaez at lan.mcl.bdm.com Subject: No Head in brew. Hello, I am a novice brewer and just finished brewing my first batch of homebrew. I read a couple of books and researched the brewing process several weeks before I started to do any brewing. Well my first batch of Pale ale (done with hopped extract) was done by the books. I cooked it in a 8 gal enamel canning pot and used a two stage fermenting process. After a few days I was able to bottle it into 25oz champaign bottles. Well the waiting is all done and I opened my very first bottle of homebrew last night and was quite disappointed. The beer didn't have any type of head retention. There was good carbonation, and a head did form but quickly disappeared. The beer tasted OK but didn't have enough hoppy flavor, I did add some finishing hops 15 minutes before the end of boil, but I guess it wasn't enough. My question is what should I do to increase the head retention in my brew. I have read about Heading liquids but don't know anything about them, should I use them. What is it in the brew that caused the head to remain after pouring? If any of you Pro Brewers could help me out I would greatly appreciate it. Ronald Narvaez RNarvaez at lan.mcl.bdm.com Never take life too seriously, it isn't a permanent thing. : ) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 10:29:40 -0500 (CDT) From: Allen Ford <allen at darwin.sfbr.org> Subject: Spider mites on hops Coyote curses red spiders! If spider mites are a problem in your garden, try spraying with insecticidal soap. Safers is one brand. Follow directions on package. I have had good sucess in getting rid of "red spiders" on my tomatoes using this product. It is the environmentally friendliest traeatment I am aware of. It also kills off thrips and aphids. Good luck. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Allen Ford <allen at darwin.sfbr.org> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-= Southwest Foundation for Biomedical Research San Antonio, Texas =-=-= Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 08:43:25 -0700 (PDT) From: alm at ibeam.jf.intel.com (Al Marshall) Subject: Rehydrating Irish Moss All: This talk about rehydrating Irish Moss intrigues me. Could someone please share the amount of water, time and temp you are using? -- Al Marshall alm at ibeam.intel.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 15:51:00 GMT From: bthv at rhi.hi.is (Bjorn Throstur Vilhjalmsson) Subject: Europe My question concerns europe. I will be travelling all over Europe this summer and wonder if anyone has a list of brewpubs or some great breweries that I could visit. Planning on staying in Holland, Belgium and Germany so adresses in those countries would probably be the best choice. Thanks in advance. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 08:57:03 +0900 From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) Subject: Hunter Airstats Where can the Hunter Airstat be purchased these days and what is the best price? I know their discontinued, but I figured there probably are a few left out there somewhere. Bob Jones bjones at novax.llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 10:21:32 -0600 (CST) From: Robert Schultz <Robert.Schultz at usask.ca> Subject: HSA -- what is the critical temp? Brewers: What is the critical temperature for HSA to start appearing? Is the sparged wort as vulnerable to HSA as boiled wort? As per my procedure: I sparge into a separate pail as I use my boil kettle to heat the sparge water. Once I have collected most of the run-off (and the kettle is empty) I pour from the pail into the kettle (read a reasonable amount of aeration here -- I pour as gently as I can, but....). Generally, the last 2 gallons of run-off are drained directly into the kettle. Once in the kettle, the wort is not moved while hot. Wondering.... Rob. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ Robert.Schultz at usask.ca, Senior Research Analyst, University of Saskatchewan ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ "I'm going off half-cocked? I'm going off half-cocked? ... ~ ~ Well, Mother was right - You can't argue with a shotgun." - Gary Larson ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 10:37:02 -0700 (PDT) From: BAIER_T at SALT.PLU.EDU Subject: Any pubs/breweries in Williamstown, Mass? Will be in the Williamstown, MA area for a conference in August. Would deeply appreciate any clues/hints about finding a good beer while there. Thanks in advance for the help. Tom Baier BAIER_T at SALT.PLU.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 10:40:47 PDT From: Murray Knudson <murrayk at microsoft.com> Subject: Duvel Belgian Ale Does anybody have a receipe for Duvel Belgian Ale, or a close approximation? I've Checked Cat's 2, but I'm not sure if any of what I see would really be close. Duvel, at least to me, has a taste like a combination of a Tripple and a Wheat such as Paulaners Hefe-Weizen. Both extract and all grain ideas welcome. Reply to me directly, and I'll summarize in a later issue. thanks much, murray murrayk at microsoft.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 11:40:37 PDT From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros) Subject: propane storage COYOTE wrote: >As for use of a Propane Cooker indoors: The responses I got dealt mostly >with the hazard of storing/using PROPANE indoors. Leaks can become a >SERIOUS fire/explosion hazard. I have mine RIGHT next to a window with >a window fan pulling air & exhaust out. The room is FAR from airtight. Is a leaky propane tank a common thing? If storing the tank in the garage or basement is bad, where do you store it? Out in the backyard? Should you build a little box to protect the tank from the weather and keep it outside under the porch or something? Also, how many batches do people get from a 20# tank? I'm usually right around empty after four batches. So that's about $2 per batch for propane (for you extract people that are counting cents). - Bryan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 15:03:31 EST From: carlsont at GVSU.EDU (TODD CARLSON) Subject: open ferment, pH, pizza stone I have seen quite a few references in the past 2 weeks to open fermentation. This is not a "thread" per se, as these have been in unrelated postings, but the topic does come up frequently. I no longer use a blow off tube (to avoid losing too much beer). I use an 8 gal plastic primary fermentor and rack to a 5 gal glass carboy secondary. I start with 6 gal of water (partial mash recipe) so after boiling, racking off hot break, and racking off trub, I have just enough beer to fill the secondary to the neck. This seems to give me more beer for the effort. But after reading the nice series on cask ales, and seeing the open fermentation vats in M. Jackson's book, I am considering just leaving the top of my primary fermentor loose and skimming the crud during vigorous fermentation. Do any of you with open fermentation experience have any hints? Is this really a good idea given the paranoia over contamination and oxidation that is so prevalent in the homebrew literature? On water pH: I have little experience in the water chemistry of brewing so I have stayed out the the pH discussion. However I am a biochemist and some of the comments made on water chemistry sound questionable. My comments are from a chemist who brews, not a brewing chemist. Water is buffered by the presence of weak acids and bases. When the pH drops (H+ goes up), weak bases in solution react with the H+ to become weak acids. When the pH goes up (H+ goes down), weak acids lose H+'s to become weak bases. These molecules act like H+ resevoirs -- soaking up extra H+'s and replacing lost H+'s. The concentration of free H+ changes relatively little. Thus the solution is buffered. Many moleucles in the mash are acids that can potentially act as buffers. Amino acids, phosphate, carbonate, even denatured proteins will buffer a solution. Certainly many of these moleucles will not be rinsed out by sparging. Diluting a buffer does not change its pH. It seems unlikely that sparging with very soft, distilled or deionized water will raise mash pH significantly. I want to learn more on the water chemistry in the mash. What are your favorite references? Finally, someone mentioned using a pizza stone under a 33 qt kettle on an electric stove. Could that person please elaborate? Thanks Todd carlsont at gvsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 13:15:21 CDT From: gelly at persoft.persoft.com (brewing chemist Mitch) Subject: Madison, WI competition Saturday, May 14 marks the date for the Eighth Annual BIG and HUGE homebrew competition, sponsored by the Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild, Ltd. Homebrewed beers (beer only, please) of big and huge character will be evaluated by experienced beer judges, and evaluation sheets will be returned to every entrant. Ribbons will be awarded for the top three entries in each category, and best of show will receive the much-coveted Woolly Mammoth Plaque. Awards won in the Big and Huge also apply to point scoring for Midwest Homebrewer of the Year (for residents of appropriate midwestern states). Categories: Big Ale (OG 1.050 - 1.060) Huge Ale (OG 1.060 and up) Big Lager (OG 1.050 - 1.060) Huge Lager (OG 1.060 and up) If your OG was right at 1.060, you have the choice of which category (big or huge) you would like to enter. In each of the four classifications, beers will be evaluated based on the AHA style category proposed by the entrant and will be in competition with all others of different different styles in the same B&H class. For example, a barley wine and a trippel will be judged according to their respective style characteristics, but their numerical scores will be compared against each other for possible awards in the Huge Ale category. Similarly, American pale ales and robust porters can compete for Big Ale honors (provided they qualify with respect to OG readings), but they will each be judged, of course, according to their respective style characteristics. On your entry form and bottle labels you must indicate both the AHA style category and the appropriate big or huge category. This event will take place Saturday, May 14, 1994 at 6 pm at the University of Wisconsin Memorial Union, 800 Langdon St., Madison, WI. See 'Today in the Union' for the assigned room, or ask at the information desk. MHaTG members, including competition staff are eligible to enter the competition; appropriate measures will be taken to assure anonymity and fairness in judging. Judges will NOT evaluate beers in the categories of their own entries (makes sense, eh?) Judging will be done the evening of the event in strict accordance with AHA competition guidelines. Entries from professional brewers and/or beers brewed on commercial premises are ineligible. Entry requirements: Three 10-17 ounce brown or green crown-capped bottles (no swing-top Grolsch-style bottle) per entry. Bottles and caps must have no labels an/or identifying marks, including raised lettering. Printed caps should be blacked out with a permanent marker. You guys know the drill. Attach one completed entry form to each bottle with a rubber band - no glue or tape. Recipes should be packed with the beers, but do not need to be attached to each bottle. Fees: MHaTG members $3.50 per entry / Non-members $4.50 per entry before 5pm on May 13 - $5.50 day of show. $7.00 per additional entry for residents of Midwest Homebrewer of the Year states. If you cannot deliver them personally, you may send them to: The Wine and Hop Shop ATTN: BIG and HUGE 434 State Street Madison, WI 53703 until 4pm the day of the competition. You may deliver them personally between 4:30 and 5:30 pm to the site. We are not responsible for the perils of shipping homebrew. For further info, you can email me or contact the hardest working man in the club, Bob Paolino, at 608-249-7126. You can also write us at MHTG, Box 1365, Madison, WI 53701. Cheers, Mitch - -- | - Mitch Gelly - | Zack Norman | | software QA specialist, zymurgist, AHA/HWBTA beer judge, | is | | president of the Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild, Ltd. | Sammy in | | - gellym at aviion.persoft.com - gelly at persoft.com - | Chief Zabu | Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Apr 94 15:30:21 EDT From: "Joan Donohue" <DONOHUE at darla.badm.scarolina.edu> Subject: separate beer digests for extract and grain brewers I would like to make a suggestion that the beer digest be separated into two parts: 1. notes of interest to extract brewers, 2. notes of interest to all grain brewers. The homebrew digests are getting quite long and I would prefer to have less to scroll through every day. Joan Donohue Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 12:57:55 -0700 From: hanna at uclac0.chem.ucla.edu Subject: Cheapest Source for 3 Gallon Soda Kegs Hi Everyone, I am interested in starting to keg my beer. While I have aquired most of what I need, I would like to get 3 gallon soda kegs. These will fit in my fridge without too much worry. So far I have not found them at the low prices I can find the 5 gallon ones at. Does anyone know of where these can be found (phone #s and addresses?). Also where can I get a cheap CO2 tank (5 lbs). Any help would be appreciated, heck come drink some beer with me Steve Hanna HANNA at UCLACH.CHEM.UCLA.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Apr 1994 16:25:39 -0400 (EDT) From: "Mr. Dudley" <S29711%22681 at utrcgw.utc.com> Subject: mashing specialty dark grains Greetings, In an attempt to recreate a "Bass" Ale with an all grain method I mashed only 6-row malt and Chocolate; 6# and 3 oz. respectively. What I ended up with was practically stout. I had made a similar Ale long ago when I was still extract brewing and used 1/2# of chocolate with remarkably good results (i.e. like Bass). My question is should mashing these dark grains have had such a significant effect? I've gotten differing opinions from fellow Zymugists in my area. I use an oven mashing technique, single step infusion for about 90 minutes, standard 170 degree sparge. Incidentally it made great dark and rich ale, not too thick but some bitterness was evidently contributed by the chocolate since my hops schedule was aiming at about 23 IBU. Thanks for the help. jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 16:43:00 PDT From: "Robucci, Adam F." <robuccad at dsoeng.sch.ge.com> Subject: Recipe Request Does anyone have a recipe for Anchor Liberty Ale? I tried this for the first at the Capital District Micro Brewers Fest a couple of months ago and now I'm hooked. Can anyone help??? Adam Robucci robuccad at dsoeng.sch.ge.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 14:59:01 MDT From: "Mark B. Alston" <c-amb at math.utah.edu> Subject: Re: IM and the EasySparger <Jim Busch wrote> Seriously, I think what Jack has discovered is yet another reason why counterflow chillers are better than immersion, trub removal. By combining both the hot and cold trub, and by optimizing your trub precipitation, you have overwhelmed the ability of your little home brewery to adequately remove the trub. If you had used a false bottom as a hop back, the surface area available to help separate the hot trub would have kept most of the hot trub in the kettle. Cold trub is not nearly as significant a problem, and is easily removed if you use open fermentation to skim, as Jack and I do. Cold trub can also be removed somewhat by bubbling oxygen in the fermenter, essentially making a crude floatation tank. I have been using a stainless-steel screen in my kettle to separate the hop cones from the wort. I have noticed that after chilling with my immersion chiller and racking out from below the screen (with a spigot drilled through the kettle) that the hops do a pretty good job of filtering out the break material. I have switched from using very-high alpha hops to low--medium alpha hops to increase the depth of the hop bed that the wort must filter through. However, I am somewhat uncertain as to how much of the trub I am removing. How much volume should I expect to get from the hot and cold break material? I have thought of "washing" the hops to see how much trub they actually capture. Secondly, I have been thinking about recirculating the first gallon or so from the kettle back through the hop bed. I believe that this will give me better trub removal and do no harm. Has anyone tried this? This method would seem to remove the trub removal advantage of counterflow chillers. Always experimenting, Mark Alston (yet another brewer behind the Zion curtain) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 18:28:21 DAYLIGHT From: bclancy at hi.com (Bob Clancy) Subject: Re: Wort Chillers when water shortages are a problem Brett, I'm a new brewer. I borrowed a friends immersion chiller for my first batch. He moved before I brewed my second batch (he got his chiller back before he left :-) ). I bought supplies to make a similar chiller that hooks up to the faucet via a washing machine hose. When brewing my second batch, I could only find the tubing and the bag of everything else had been misplaced; so I had to improvise (which is the fun part of brewing). To chill my second batch, I filled up a bottling bucket with water and put in some blue ice. I attached 3/8" plastic tubing to the spigot and attached the other end to the input of the immersion coil. I started cooling my extract wort (~2gal H20 + extract). It was cooled in about 15-20 minutes supprisingly only using about 3 gallons of water. The cooling time between the first and second methods was about the same. What suprised be was the small quantity of "COLD* water that needed. Your mileage may vary. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 17:54:10 CDT From: bronson at iexist.att.com Subject: What's in Extracts? In HBD #1409, Norm <npyle at n33.ecae.stortek.com> wonders if it is too much to ask malt extract producers to provide detailed information about the formulation and production of their products. Well, coincidentally, I called Briess Malting Co. in Chilton, WI this morning to ask that very question. I was told by the Director of Brewing Services that the "formulations were proprietary" and that the difference between thier various extract products was "the addition of crystal malt and/or chocolate malt and/or black malt" and that the choice of ingredients was "determined by the style of beer that the extract was designed to produce." Not too informative, to say the least. When I asked her if she was willing to tell me what I needed to know, she said that "she was being careful not to tell me details." After a polite thank you, the conversation was over. I was very surprised. The extract products from Nothwestern Extract Company of Brookfield, WI are simply repackaged and/or redistributed Briess products. Briess, of course, distributes Product Information Sheets on their CBW (Concentrated Brewers Wort; i.e. extract) products that include "Typical Analytical Specifications." Data from these sheets are summarized below: lbs/ Briess CBW malt solids color (1) O.G. gal. F.G. (2) ---------------- ----------- ------ ---------- ----- ---- --------------- Brewers Gold barley 79 % 6 - 10 1.046 1.29 1.0064 - 1.0080 Sparkling Amber barley 79 % 10 - 15 1.046 1.29 1.0080 - 1.0104 Traditional Dark barley 79 % 15 - 20 1.055 1.48 1.0104 - 1.0132 Bavarian Weizen wheat+barley 79 % 6 - 10 1.046 1.29 1.0064 - 1.0080 (1) The color range given (Lovibond) is that which would be expected of the final beer provided: specified O.G. is used, 1 hour boil, no scorching. (2) The last three columns should be interpreted as follows: The original gravity (O.G.) requires *approximately* X pounds of extract per gallon (lbs/gal.) and will ferment to a final gravity (F.G.) somewhere in the range indicated, where X is the lbs/gal. value from the table. Details? Not really. The Product Information Sheets state the obvious: the dark is darker than the amber which is darker than the gold and that they all ferment. Oh, and the weisen extract contains wheat. I agree with Norm. I would very much like to know more details about the production and formulation of extract products and I don't think that it is too much to ask. I know that the collective HBD conciousness probably knows a great deal of this information. I suspect that all sorts of details have been gleaned from conversations with more candid distributors and talkative company employees during tours, from articles, and from experience. Let's hear about it! Ed Edward C. Bronson <bronson at iexist.att.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 19:24:01 EDT From: IO91892 at MAINE.maine.edu (JACK FORD) Subject: KEGGING I know this may seem very redundant, but my mail log became jammed yesterday and I didn't get to read the responses to my question about using soda kegs if anyone could respond directly to me I would be most gratefull thanks jack Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 1994 18:29:53 -0500 (CDT) From: Haselhorst Brent A <bah750s at nic.smsu.edu> Subject: Please add me to your list. I am a brewer with 150 gallons experience in just under 1 1/2 years. thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 94 23:24:11 EST From: JEBURNS at ucs.indiana.edu Subject: SHANDY THIS Barq's Root Beer and Breckinridge Oatmeal Stout, Now Barq's ad "...the one with bite.." is actually true! I'm drinking a Miller Reserve Velvet Stout while driving on the Info Highway, if you get a chance pick up a 6-pack. Pretty good beer for $3.99. Someone asked about not getting any blow-off from their ferment, I believe the post said the recipe was for 4 gallons. If you try a 5 gallon batch you will probably get some foam out the tube. Dave Burns jeburns at ucs.indiana.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 1994 08:52:36 -0400 (EDT) From: CHRIS KEITH <KEITH at TUNL.TUNL.DUKE.EDU> Subject: brewpubs in Williamsburg, Va? I will be in Williamsburg, Va. for a few days during the latter part of May, and I would appreciate some information concerning good bars/brewpubs in that area. Thanks, cdk Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 1994 8:13:45 -0500 (CDT) From: BadAssAstronomer <STOREY at fender.msfc.nasa.gov> Subject: multimediabrewing Does anyone out there know about any kind of multimedia products that involve beer? It occurs to me that this is a niche that is empty. But then again, I don't pay a lot of attention to what is available on CD-ROM these days. It would be pretty neat to have homebrew, brewpub, micro, and mega brewing type information on CD. And these are just a few of the topics that could be covered. cheers scott Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 1994 09:18:18 -0400 From: ambroser at apollo.dml.georgetown.edu Subject: My $.02 Mark Stickler <mstickle at lvh.com> WRITES: >Subject: Sam Adams Triple Bock > >-snip- >as the "night cap", Sam Adams Triple Bock. >-snip- >I mean like an expensive vintage port! >-snip- >It was supposedly 18% ABV >-snip- >They expect it to be commercially available in the late summer in 6-8oz >bottles at about $100.00 per 24 bottle case! Sorry, I will not pay 50c per ounce for slimebag brew. There are very few brews I will pay that much for. Off the top of my head, the first one I can think of is Thomas Hardy's Ale. I think the SATB would be pale in comparison. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 1994 09:21 EDT From: Alan_Marshall <AK200032 at Sol.YorkU.CA> Subject: SATB / Adding Bitterness / Water Conservation In HBD TMark Stickler <mstickle at lvh.com> writes: Subject: Sam Adams Triple Bock <comments about the "Beers of Spring" dinner and SATB omitted, but Mark gives the SATB a nice, favourable review> I trust Mark enjoyed himself. It sounded like a fantastic evening! I was talking recently with a fairly well-known beer writer that described SATB as "fowl". Mind you, there is a huge divergence of opinion on superstrong beers like Samichlaus and EKU 28. - -------------------- > From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> > Subject: Adding bitterness, etc. > > Carlo Fusco asks about the best way to add bitterness > to his under-bittered beer (in a post labeled "hop oils") > > First of all, you want alpha acids, not the hop oils. The > hop oils are responsible for the hop aroma and hop character, > but not bitterness. > > The easiest way to add bitterness to already brewed beer is > to get some iso-alpha extract. These are alpha acids extracted > from the hops that have been pre-isomerized. Add them at > bottling (or even serving). Some products are calibrated in > IBUs so you can figure out how many IBUs you want to add directly. > Others are not calibrated, but for one batch you can add to taste > to a small quantity of beer (say 6 ozs) and then scale up to the > batch size. I wish I had known about this. A researcher posted in alt.beer asking if it was possible to suggest a series of beers that were identical save for their bitterness level. This sounds like it would have been the solution. BTW, Carlo Fusco, who asked the original question, gave me an American IPA at 49 IBU that was outstanding. It was not as bitter as I would have expected for 49 IBU (maybe that's why he was asking the question) but was full of hop flavour and aroma. I hope he didn't ask the question to mess with his very wonderful recipe for this beer. - ------------------------------ and finally, > From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> > Subject: Wort Chillers when water shortages are a problem > > Brett Shorten, of that world brewing center Toowoomba, Qld, Australia > (in the words of Michael Jackson, 'where?') Asks about the use of > water for cooling the wort in a land where there's hardly any water to > begin with. Water use should be on everyone's mind, no matter what > their location, or how long the drought. (The tour guide for the Great > Western malting plant in Vancouver, WA told us that the plant uses 10 > *MILLION* gallons of water a day. It sounds like Great Western is being foolish as well as wasteful. I toured Upper Canada Brewing here in Toronto. They were very proud of their water and energy conservation measures. They used what seemed to be a modified counter-flow system: The hot wort and unheated water for the next mash flowed through a heat exchanger that simultaneously pre-heated the mash water and cooled the wort. They claimed it was extremely cost effective, saving both on water usage and energy costs. - -- Alan Marshall "If a picture is worth a thousand AK200032 at SOL.YORKU.CA words, a taste is worth a thousand York University pictures." - Charles Finkel, Pike Toronto, Canada Place Brewery/Merchant du Vin Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 1994 08:01:18 +0900 From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) Subject: Toxic Zymurgy I sent the following note to Karen Barela (AHA president), figuring it must represent at least a few of us. Dear Karen, The latest issue of Zymurgy clearly is the foulest smelling magazine I have ever smelled. I think it must be that mustard green insert. I start to sneeze everytime I get near it! Once I get over the sneezing, headaches start to set in. I sure hope you guys have a handle on the problem and don't publish another issue like the last. I bet I'm not the first to comment on this problem. Bob Jones bjones at novax.llnl.gov Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1411, 04/29/94