HOMEBREW Digest #1442 Mon 06 June 1994

Digest #1441 Digest #1443

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  RE: tannin leaching by boiling water, free ads in BT (Jim Busch)
  Water for weiss ("Dennis Lewis")
  Wyeast results for Weiheistephan Wheat. ("McGaughey, Nial")
  Campden/Parallel Starters (KWH)
  hop bugs, bottles (Mark Bunster)
  Sanitized siphoning??? (Steve Armbrust)
  Siphoning/Keg as 2nd ferm./Keg carbonation (David Allison 225-5764)
  Converting Extract Recipes to All Grain ( LARRY KELLY)
  "Malta" (Steve Moninger)
  Fish Tank Foam Filter to Filter Beer ( LARRY KELLY)
  Fruit in the secondary (Pierre Jelenc)
  Microbreweries (LSPANTEL)
  Brewing manual progress/Method for malting? (Ron Hart)
  How do I compute pts/lb/gal ( LARRY KELLY)
  Beer Bright (John W. Carpenter)
  Various ramblings ("Mark B. Alston")
  Is Sierra.Stanford.Edu FTP working? or is it me? ("Upward, not Northward!")
  sierra - crowded or dead? ("Charles S. Jackson")
  As black as black could be! (Ulick Stafford)
  Startrek and Candi Sugar (Don Put)
  Questions, Questions. ("Danny A. Rossi")
  Wreck a keg? (Geoff Scott)
  Washing Machine Masher ? (Maltstir)
  Preserving brew (Phil Miller)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 14:09:06 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: RE: tannin leaching by boiling water, free ads in BT Ron writes: > Subject: spruce/1098/buggy bines/calling Jack/bine id > > To Jack Schmidling: Like many on HBD, I'm a kettle masher, > thanks to your write up. One item, you tell us to sparge with > boiling water (you say something like, "trust me on this one.") I > have (and I do), but I'd like to know why. Speak? Speak? I just got done skimming this misinformation as printed in the latest issue of Brewing Techniques. I got pretty peeved for two reasons, one is that "tips" like these have no basis in brewing science and are contrary to accepted practice, especially with regard to increased leaching of tannins from the lauter tun. Secondly, the "article" is basically free advertising for JSP and had no buisness being in the articles section , it belonged in some product review area. Im sure the "Oracle" has something silly to say about all of this. Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 13:07:09 CDT From: "Dennis Lewis" <DLEWIS%jscdo6 at jesnic.jsc.nasa.gov> Subject: Water for weiss Gillian Grafton writes: >I'm planning on brewing a wheat beer soon and have a question for the collective wisdom regarding the correct water composition. My home tap water is very hard - it has more than a passing resemblance to Burton-on- Trent water (well I only live a few miles away). The question is, is this OK for brewing wheat beer, or do I need to do any treatments? As a last resort I have access to distilled water and the necessary chemicals at work.> When I was in Munich last year, I got a tour of Spaten and they were making Franziskaner weissbier at the time. They used no other water treatments than calcium chloride. It's my opinion that water high in sulfates is not necessarily good for making weissbier because the SO4's contribute a dry palate to the brews, when you are looking for a sweeter, more malty one. I'd do some simple calculations and mix your tap water with distilled to get below 100 ppm sulfates and then add CaCl2 to get the Ca levels up to at least 60 ppm or better to 100. Local water can be both a blessing and a curse. You don't want to use straight distilled water because there are trace elements in tap water that are essential for yeast growth. I hope this helps you out. I am "addicted" to that wonderful Bavarian elixir myself. Dennis Lewis <dlewis%jscdo6 at jesnic.jsc.nasa.gov> Bay Area Mashtronauts--Homebrew, The Final Frontier Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Jun 94 11:18:00 PDT From: "McGaughey, Nial" <nmcgaugh at hq.walldata.com> Subject: Wyeast results for Weiheistephan Wheat. Hi all, I'm STILL having problems with HBD feed (havent gotten it since May 26th) but I wanted to report on my experiences with the new Wyeast wheat yeast (3068) 6 lbs 2 row American Pale Malt 4 lbs Wheat Malt .5 oz Liberty Hops (boil) Wyeast Wheat Yeast O.G. 1.055 single step mash 2 hours at 168 (I _like_ body) in picnic/ manifold cooler (mash was recirculated 2 times) sparged according to Charlie P.... 1.5 hour boil, immersion chilled to 75 deg in 15 mins.. 2 weeks in primary at 66 deg. 2 weeks in secondary at 70 deg. 2 weeks in cornelius at ~ 50 degrees, served at 55 degrees Impressions/notes/slander follows: Light golden green/grey in color, definite apple aroma (wahh where are the bananas?) hardly any head retention. The main flavor is _butter_ then a little apple and a minute amount of banana.. Not sour/acid enough, though a lemon would help this out a bit. No clove at all. Very 'slippery' mouth feel. Not enough carbonation. In my book, close but only a pre-chewed stubbie of a cigar. What I would do next time: step mash, fine tailor the ferment temp for more esters, use better malt than the generic. (all of which are happening as we speak, bubbling in the basement) pondering the true meaning of 'grey/green' beer, I remain Nial McGaughey Wall Data Product Development Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Jun 94 14:46 From: KWH at roadnet.ups.com (KWH) Subject: Campden/Parallel Starters Why aren't campden tablets use in brewing beer as much as in winemaking? I have been brewing since 1985, and I've had more than my share of infections in beer (sour, musty, etc.). However, I have never had a batch of wine or cider go bad. I realize that it is more acidic and has a higher % alcohol, but I think a lot of this credit goes to the campden tablets. I've heard people assume it will give off-tastes in beer, but I've never experienced it in any of my wines. The wine books I have read say that any residual off smells/tastes from the tablets will disipate in a few days. Is beer more prone to keep these? I am about to start the process of "parallel yeast propogation" as described in the yeast faq with a pack of Wyeast 2565 Kolsch yeast, and was thinking about adding one tablet to the one gallon initial starter wort since sanitation is so critical at this point. Since hops also help defend against infection, I plan on adding about 1/4 - 1/2 ounce in a bag along with the DME in the boil. There go those tedious IBU calculations right out the window..... Secondly, when transferring starter solutions, I've heard conflicting information on whether to agitate the sediment into solution or pour the liquid carefully off the sediment without disturbing it. I know this sounds silly, but how is this handled? Finally, I was considering Papazian's "Amazeing Pale Ale" (pg 308) for my first all-grain batch. The recipe calls for corn starch. Am I asking for trouble with stuck runoff on my first experience? Has anyone made this recipe? What commercial brews might it compare to? Any helpful suggestions by private email would be very welcome. Thanks, Kirk Harralson Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 14:27:07 EDT From: mbunster at hibbs.vcu.edu (Mark Bunster) Subject: hop bugs, bottles Somebody said: * On buggy hop bines, I planted garlic cloves around my bines * (an old Organic Gardening trick). It supposedly repels (not * eliminates) the bugs. Another organic trick is to spray with * soapy water; then rinse. Not sure how effective these are on * various bug types. I've seen no critters so far, and the goddam * rabbits which eat everything else I plant don't seem to be hop * heads. As someone has mentioned, hops are part of the same family of stuff as smoking-type cannabis, and the most pesky and common bug for that is the spider mite. Soapy water indeed is the easiest and most organic method to combat them (although wiping them is more effective than spraying), but if you go to any garden store and ask what they have that's friendly that beats spider mites you'll avoid the most common nasty. Somebody else said: * We recently were bottling our latest batch (10 gal of Obscure IPA) of * homebrew, and discovered to our dismay that our capper would not cap * Caledonian Brewing Co.'s bottles, since they have a recessed ring around * the neck and the capper can't get a grip. This got us to wondering * about whose bottles are good for homebrew bottling (New Amsterdams * worked just fine, and a lot of our IPA ended up in those) and whose * bottles don't work as well. I don't know if this is FAQ-bait, or * just a topic of potential interest, but I'd be interested in other * people's experiences and responses. If you prefer to mail responses * to me, I'll summarize them and post it. * We have discovered Stoudt's won't work either, which disappoints because they are great big green mamas. Call 919-555-1212 and ask for the Weeping Radish Brewery in Manteo, NC. Ask them where they get their 1 liter grolsch-type brown bottles. Ceramic tops, even! The beer is pretty good, and it's almost worth the $6 to get the bottle... - -- Mark Bunster |I'm not an actor, but I play one on TV. Survey Research Lab--VCU | Richmond, VA 23284 |Adam Smith's invisible hand mbunster at hibbs.vcu.edu |has got you by the throat... (804) 828-8813/353-8271 | Trotsky Icepick Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 13:57:29 PST From: Steve Armbrust <Steve_Armbrust at ccm.co.intel.com> Subject: Sanitized siphoning??? Text item: Text_1 In all the messages about siphon-hose sucking and its alternatives, no one mentioned the alternative I've used in the past. I ferment in glass carboys and I have one of those bright orange plastic caps that fit over the opening of the carboy. There are two openings in the cap. A racking cane goes into the larger diameter hole. And to start the flow, I blow into the other hole. This pushes the liquid up the cane and down the tubing. Once it starts flowing, it's on its own. My question is, is this any more sanitary than sucking on the tube? I make no physical contact with anything the beer touches, but I do blow infected air from my mouth into the carboy. Then again, I also exhale from my mouth into the same room that my beer is in, so I wonder if it makes a difference. Steve Armbrust Steve_Armbrust at ccm.hf.intel.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 14:49:50 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: Hop Utilization rates Ok, I admit it. I stole this information directly from Randy Mosher's new book. In it he had a graph of hop utilization based on minutes of boil and gravity of wort. I won't insult you by trying to duplicate the curves by use of ASCII graphics, but I will reproduce the data as read from the curves. This data is the percent utilization as a function of the specific gravity and the minutes of boil. From this data I was able to construct a series of curvefits for entry in a spreadsheet to help me better plan my recipes. I do this by combining the curves of boil at water gravity (1.000) modified by the differences created by boiling at other gravities. Essentially I have a curvefit modified by another curvefit. Inputs to the spreadsheet are the time of boil and the gravity of the boil. This method replaces the method as described in the Hop issue of Zymurgy, which led me to believe that hop utilization rates were straight curves, where utilization maxed out at 30%. RM's curves top out at about 26%, and then for hop pellets. Your milage may vary. Here goes: Utilization by gravity and by minutes of boil IBU Gravity 5min 15min 30min 45min 60min 90min 120min 150min 180min 1.000 3.80 8.90 12.90 15.80 17.90 21.20 23.00 24.80 26.00 1.010 3.80 8.90 12.90 15.80 17.90 21.20 23.00 24.80 26.00 1.020 3.80 8.90 12.80 15.70 17.80 21.10 23.00 24.80 26.00 1.030 3.70 8.80 12.70 15.50 17.60 21.00 23.00 24.60 25.70 1.040 3.60 8.70 12.50 15.30 17.40 20.80 22.50 24.10 25.20 1.050 3.30 8.50 12.20 15.00 17.00 20.20 22.00 23.80 24.80 1.060 3.10 8.30 12.00 14.50 16.50 19.60 21.30 22.90 24.00 1.070 2.85 8.00 11.70 13.90 15.80 18.80 20.30 21.90 23.00 1.080 2.60 7.50 10.90 13.00 14.90 17.70 19.20 20.50 21.50 1.090 2.20 7.00 10.10 12.00 13.80 16.20 17.80 19.00 20.00 1.100 1.90 6.20 9.20 11.00 12.60 14.90 16.20 17.40 18.30 1.110 1.60 5.60 8.20 9.80 11.20 13.20 14.70 15.80 16.60 1.120 1.20 4.80 7.10 8.70 10.20 11.90 13.00 14.00 14.80 I hope that you find this of some use! Good luck! Rich Webb Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Jun 1994 15:43:00 -0800 (PST) From: David Allison 225-5764 <ALLISON.DAVID at A1GW.GENE.COM> Subject: Siphoning/Keg as 2nd ferm./Keg carbonation Siphoning: An easy way to siphon is to use a tube that is a couple of inches long that has an inside diameter equal to the outside diameter of the racking tube (or visa versa for that matter). One can start a siphon using this tube stuck over (or inside) the racking tube as a mouth piece. It can be easily removed once the liquid fills the racking tube before it reaches the mouth piece. I use a tube clamp on the racking tube to hold the siphoned liquid in the racking tube when removing the mouth piece. This clamp also allows me to not touch the racking tube. Crimping the tube with sanitized gloves will also work (or soak hands in J.D.- heh, heh). The mouth piece tube is sanitized the same way the racking tube is. This method of siphoning is easy, fast, cheap and sanitary. Keg as secondary fermentor & natural carbonation: I have had much success in using a corny keg as a secondary fermentor and then sealing it up in order to carbonate the beer naturally [spundig? (sp?)]. My method has been to clean/sanitize a keg that I have cut about 1.5 inches off the down tube. I fill the keg with iodophor solution (~12 ppm), assemble it (sanitized fittings), and the blow out the iodophor solution with CO2 (BTW, the iodophor solution can be saved for further use). I remove the "gas in" tower from the keg and pour out the remaining iodophor solution (yes, I know that a little bit of air will get in). Upon replacing the "gas in" tower, I now have a keg that is sanitized and filled (mostly) with CO2. I then release the CO2 gas and remove the the "liquid out" tower and place a piece of sanitized 1/2 inch I.D. tubing (~ 1 in. long) over the threads. This tubing fits allows my racking tube (standard: 3/8 in. ID; 1/2 in. ID) to fit snugly inside. Using a sanitized racking cane, racking tube, mouth piece; I start a siphon and crimp the racking tube (see above) -- place the racking tube inside the tube on the keg -- release the crimp -- and rack the beer from my primary fermentor (7 gal. glass carboy) into the keg. Once the beer starts to transfer, I open the release valve to allow the CO2 gas to escape from the keg that is filling up with beer. Are you still with me? %) Once the beer is transferred, I replace the "liquid out" tower and remove the "gas in" tower. I then place a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. tubing (a couple of inches long) over the keg threads that has a three-piece air lock stuck inside the tubing and clamped on. After the beer is transferred, the fermentation picks up a little bit then settles down. I usually rack the beer after 4 - 5 days in the primary, but of course your mileage may vary. After the fermentation in the secondary settles down, I replace the "gas in" tower to seal up the keg. This allows the beer to carbonate naturally and saves from using CO2 by force carbonation ( I don't prime -- Brewers against priming - Unite!). I try and seal off the keg about 0.004 to 0.006 SG units above my expected FG. Anyway... Once the beer is finished fermenting, I transfer the naturally carbonated beer (spundig?) by pushing it with CO2 into a corny keg (conditioning) that is filled with CO2 (as described above -- this one has a normal down tube; therefore, the remaining iodophor solution does not have to be poured out) using a tube which connects the two "liquid out" sides while slowly releasing the pressure by opening the release valve on the conditioning keg. The beer in the conditioning keg is then refrigerated. If I undershoot or overshoot the CO2 pressure, I adjust by releasing CO2 pressure or added CO2 -- as the case may warrant. This can be done in the sealed secondary keg or the conditioning keg. BTW, I have a pressure gauge to measure the keg pressure -- but that's another story. This method has worked quite well for me. It allows me to retrieve the yeast from the secondary fermentor after transfer to the conditioning keg. It also seems to give me a beer with very good head retention and fine bubbles. Sorry if this is confusing or too long a post. If you have any questions regarding these methods -- you can e-mail me directly or post to the HBD. - David (allison2 at gene.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Jun 1994 22:05:19 EDT From: KMYH09A at prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY) Subject: Converting Extract Recipes to All Grain Can someone instruct me on how to convert an extract recipe to an All Grain recipe? Is there a formula to use? Is there a standard conversion proceedure for figuring? Larry KMYH09A at prodigy.com Return to table of contents
Date: 04 Jun 94 00:33:06 EDT From: Steve Moninger <74267.420 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: "Malta" I recently had a customer interested in replicating a beverage called MALTA. It is a carbonated, low alcohol malt beverage that tastes like a molasses-based soft drink -- sort of a malt-based rootbeer. The ingredients are described as "malted barley, corn sugar, molasses, and hops." Any clues on how one might make such a thing? It really is a pretty tasty alternative to soda pop on a hot day. Steve Moninger, <74267.420 at CompuServe.COM> Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jun 1994 10:31:32 EDT From: KMYH09A at prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY) Subject: Fish Tank Foam Filter to Filter Beer Has anyone tried using a foam type filter thats used in a fish tank to filter the wort before adding it to the primary fermentor? The foam is a sponge type filter used in many canister type fish tank filters such as a fluval filter. My thinking is that the sponge could be santized with B-Brite, then the whole filter or a piece of it could be placed in a funnel and the wort poured through it. It should filter better than the funnel screen disc. I find when I transfer the wort from my pot to my primary carboy, via a funnel and screen, and the primary sits around for a few hours, a sediment forms on the bottom of the carboy. Sometimes there are chunk type stuff. Anyone have an idea what it is? It has NO affect on the finished product, but there must be a way to filter more of the stuff from the wort out before adding the yeast. Any input is welcome!! Larry KMYH09A at prodigy.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 94 10:45:34 EDT From: Pierre Jelenc <pcj1 at columbia.edu> Subject: Fruit in the secondary In HBD #1441, Rick Gontarek gontarek at ncifcrf.gov asks > If the fruit is added to the secondary, how is it pasteurized? I soak my cherries (I have no raspberry experience) in potassium permanganate solution for 15 minutes, then rinse with preboiled, cooled water. That way, I have absolutely no pectin problem. The amount of permanganate is eyeballed, enough to get a dark purplish, but still not opaque solution (That amounts to a few drops of a saturated stock solution per gallon. I keep my stock in a former Tabasco sauce bottle). Pierre Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jun 94 11:28:38 EDT From: LSPANTEL at ECUVM.CIS.ECU.EDU Subject: Microbreweries Hi Folks, Could someone tell me where I might find information on commercial microbrewery, startup to bottled product? Thank you very much. Veronica ************************************************************************* *Veronica Pantelidis, Ph.D. LSPANTEL at ECUVM.CIS.ECU.EDU *Co-Director, Virtual Reality and Education Laboratory *School of Education, East Carolina University, Greenville, NC 27858 USA *Voice: (919)757-6621 Fax: (919)757-4368 ************************************************************************* Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 1994 11:07:37 -0500 From: hart at actin.rutgers.edu (Ron Hart) Subject: Brewing manual progress/Method for malting? Thanks to all who have been supplying ideas and procedures for my brewing lab manual. I've received several ideas to explore bacterial contamination, I read with interest the posts about wormwood and nettles as alternate bittering herbs, and most recently, I received two private e-mailings with fancy (HPLC) and simple (organic extraction) methods for assaying hop acid utilization. Now I return with yet another request. I noted a posting recently on malting barley and oats. Can anyone tell me how to malt small batches of barley? I can easily control temperature with incubators. Again, I'll send a completed manual to anyone whose ideas are used. TIA. Ron Hart Department of Biological Sciences, Rutgers University Newark hart at actin.rutgers.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jun 1994 12:44:57 EDT From: KMYH09A at prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY) Subject: How do I compute pts/lb/gal At what point in my mashing should I compute my pts/lb/gallon? Do I figure it after sparging is complete or after the boiling of the wort is complete? I just brewed my first all grain the other day. I got a 29ppt/lb/gl when figuring after sparging, and a 21ppt after boil. Does this sound correct? my grain bill for a 3 gallon brew: 3.5lbs english pale malt 2row 1.5 german crystal malt 20l 1 lb wheat malt american Sparged with 3 gallons water, and collected 3.5 gallons of liquid at 1.050 gravity. After boil was completed (1hour) I was left with 2.5gallons wort with a gravity of 1.063. I added water to bring volume up to 3 gallons, and of course the OG came down to 1.040. I'm using Phil's Lauter Tun Any input is welcome! Larry KMYH09A at prodigy.com PS. I know there is sort of a set amount of sparge water to use with a set amount of grain. What is the proper amounts of sparge water to use with a set amount of grain? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 94 14:25:40 EDT From: jwc at med.unc.edu (John W. Carpenter) Subject: Beer Bright How long does Beer Bright last after you disolve it in water. Can I just pour it from container to container indefinitely? Does it lose it's effectiveness over time? Thanks in advance. John Carpenter Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 94 12:34:06 MDT From: "Mark B. Alston" <c-amb at math.utah.edu> Subject: Various ramblings I read somewhere that if you are using a digital pH meter for mashing that you should calibrate it over the temp range you are going to use (i.e. 148-155 F or so) My Checker pH meter claims its range is only to 120 F I believe. Has anyone had experience using this meter for checking the mash? And, if so, at what temp did you calibrate it? Now for some answers. Bill Knecht writes about siphoning using the Brew Cap: Not a flame but just need to point out a distinction. The Brew Cap is a cap made for doing fermentations in an inverted carboy. It is a clear soft plastic cap and comes with a long blowoff tube and various hoses and valves. Using the BrewCap in this way eliminates the need for siphoning. There is a yeast collection hose out of the bottow which allows you to rack your beer without siphoning. There is another carboy cap which is orange and *not* made for inverted fermenting and is *not* called the Brew Cap. However, it is quite useful for starting a siphon as was mentioned. Various unscrupulous dealer have been known to try and pass these off as the Brew Cap (Including one here in S.L.C. which tried to sell me one as the Brew Cap, luckily I had heard about carboy caps before so I was not suckered). Larry Kelly asks about extraction using the Phalse bottom: Here's a data point for you. I use Phils Phalse bottom in a 5 gal Gott cooler. Using this in conjuntion with the sparging arm I get around 35 points for pale malt. (1 lb of pale malt in 1 gal of water gives me 1.035 for an O.G.) I do a fairly slow sparge and try to drag it out for at least an hour and a half. I think that my slow sparge is of the greatest help. I read someone post here or in r.c.b. that 5-6 min for a gallon was the fastest recommended sparge. I would recommend something more like 15 min per gal. Secondly, yes you can take an O.G. before boiling. In fact I highly suggest this. By doing this you can adjust your boiling time to get to the S.G. you want for your wort. I.e. if your gravity before boiling would give you too low of an S.G. for your volume then you can increase your boil for a lower volume at the correct gravity. Or if your gravity is too high you can dilute or decrease your boil time (not less that 60 min) to achive the correct S.G. Dan Hall writes: Soda kegs are very convenient, but I always hated drawing one or two pints and then be faced with cleaning the picnic tap. I never felt comfortable leaving it on the keg with its beverage line full of beer, and I quickly grew tired of partially dismantling it to rinse it out. I now have two fridge mounted taps (Very nice) and leave the lines hooked up for an entire keg. I used to do the same with my picnic taps as well. I have never had an infection develop after kegging. This is from around 20 batches kegged. Bear in mind that the same environment that makes fermented beer safe to dry hop keeps these other nastys down as well. Moreover, you should really never have anything flow the wrong way down the line. I belive that if you give the lines a through cleaning between each batch (I rinse mine with hot H2O and TSP then with bleach and finally with near-boiling water to rinse) You should never have a problem. Remember that fermented beer is really not a very friendly place for nasties. Just clean those lines very well between batches. Alan Causey mentions states without brewpubs: Utah actually has many brewpubs. Here in S.L.C we have 2 brewpubs and one micro (the second is opening soon). There are also brewpubs in Park City, Ogden, and Moab. My rablings for the day, Mark Alston (c-amb at math.utah.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Jun 1994 15:48:32 -0500 (EST) From: "Upward, not Northward!" <CULP1405 at splava.cc.plattsburgh.edu> Subject: Is Sierra.Stanford.Edu FTP working? or is it me? Greetings All, earlier this week I got some files from the ftp site; but now the durn'd thang hears me knockin' but I cain't come in...The folks at SSE seem to think that I am the problem-has anyone else had trouble with this? Thanks, Kirby. Culp1405 at splava.cc.plattsburgh.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 94 17:02:39 CDT From: "Charles S. Jackson" <sjackson at ftmcclln-amedd.army.mil> Subject: sierra - crowded or dead? Sorry that this is quite off the topic but is related. For the past week I have attempted to ftp to sierra.stanford.edu but have continuously gotten the msg that there are currently 5 users - try again later. I mean I have frequently have insomnia and even at 2AM the same message. This seems to be more than a simple traffic jam. Anyone else with this problem? Is there another site that mirrors sierra? Thanks Steve - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Brewing beer is far more exciting when it is both a hobby AND a felony! The Alabama Outlaw Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 1994 18:02:20 -0500 (EST) From: ulick at slip20.rad.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) Subject: As black as black could be! I just recevied my AHA National judging sheets and I will not be in the next round. Beers not to style. However, I found one point irksome enough when I got my results to do some laboratory analysis. My doppelbock was too dark and Dry Stout too pale. The study agreed with the Doppelbock judeges vs. AHA guidlines, but not with the stout judges. My Doppelbock was 45 SRM, clearly outside the 12-30 range listed, but the stout, which I thought was definitely black enough and I'm Irish, received comments like 'Good brown ale colour but not a stout. Needs chocolate.'. The second part I won't comment on, though I disagree, but the beer was 63 SRM. According to AHA guidlines stouts are 40+, Brown ales are no more than 32 for an English Mild. I think the beer judge in question (who is well known in homebrewing circles) needs to adjust his comments to something like the beer is not a style. If this beer is not black enough for a stout and is too dark for a brown ale I guess I should have entered it as a porter - (30+ guidline), but then, no doubt, it would have had too much roast barely character. I think the AHA should overhaul its guidelines. If a beer that should be 40+ is called too light at 63, adjust the guidelines accordingly. Looking at their guidelines nearly all the dark colours are not dark enough. Spec analysis was in a 2mm cuvette. Absorbance at 430 nm was 1.0 for the stout and 0.71 for the doppelbock. For those interested in EBC the absorbances at 530 nm were 0.1695 and 0.3608 (EBC = 8.5 and 18, I think). I think I'll start collecting small samples of beer for colour analysis, and will publish a report on commercial beers. However if anyone has a list of recent laboratory measurements could they email me so that I can calibrate my procedures. It is hard to believe that Michelob Dark is 17 with some of the readings I have gotten. It could be that normal procedure is bad - I mean a dark beer in a 1cm cuvette will give a nonsense absorbance, but brewing chemists know Beer's law is not to be trusted above A=1, don't they? __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 | ulick at darwin.cc.nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 1994 18:24:30 -0700 From: Don Put <dput at csulb.edu> Subject: Startrek and Candi Sugar A cousin of mine, who happens to live in Belgium, recently sent me a box of dark candi sugar. I've since put my order in for 10 more pounds and he said, "no problem." Now, he has a daughter who is interested in anything to do with Startrek and I told him I would try and find some catalogs, brochures, etc. that deal in Startrek merchandise. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction for my search? I've got a list of startrek files from the friendly archie server, but if anyone of you know of places that I could contact, or any that you have dealt with, please let me know. I realize this is only tangentially about beer (Hey, I plan on brewing some wonderful Belgian ales using the sugar), so please save the HBD bandwidth and email my any info you might have. TIA, son ^^^ - that should be "don" dput at csulb.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 1994 23:00:20 -0400 (EDT) From: "Danny A. Rossi" <dr25+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Questions, Questions. Hello folks, I am pretty new to this homebrew thing, but I am hooked. I put up a batch of Cooper's Real Ale back in February and it came out pretty good. I'm surprised it did because I had no idea of what the hell I was doing, but people sure seem to like it. I have a Brown Ale that I bottled about four weeks ago. I tried it a week ago, but I think it could use some more time before it peaks. I have a couple of cans of Irish Stout extract that I am considering attempting an oatmeal stout with, but I need to do some reading before I can attempt that. OK, here are a couple of questions for you. I am totally blind and this is of course getting in the way a bit. Does anybody out there know of an electronic or digital hydrometer. If it is electronic or digital I can make it talk. I assume spec-grav is just the inverse of density so if I have to I can siphon off a specific amount of wort and mass it out, but that seems kind of cumbersome. My second question deals with books. Material is hard to come by so if anyone knows of some really good information on electronic media please let me know. I have dug around and so far found two books in braille. One is called "The Big Book of Brewing" Argus books. The second is "Treatise Lager Beer" by Fred Eckhardt. does anyone know anything about these books? Are they worth getting? The first one will set me back nearly seventy bucks and the second about fifteen. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Dan Rossi dr25 at andrew.cmu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 94 00:36 WET DST From: gscott at io.org (Geoff Scott) Subject: Wreck a keg? Nothing came out of my stout tap when I tried it this afternoon. When I opened the fridge I found to my horror that the thermostat had stuck and my kegs where frozen. They couldn't have been completely frozen because the beer was flowing after a couple of hours at (warm) room temperature. One thing I noticed was that the first pint was much stronger. I may have inadvertently made an ice-stout. Has anyone destroyed a keg this way? My keg was only about one quarter full but I imagine that expanding freezing beer in a full keg might wreck it. regards, Geoff Scott gscott at io.org Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 94 10:36:12 EDT From: Maltstir at aol.com Subject: Washing Machine Masher ? Has anyone ever attempted to adapt an old electric washing machine for mashing ? At first glance it seems possible, and offers several desired built-in features such as: large capacity, hot water plumbing, continuous agitation, spin cycle accelerated discharge of wort. Sparging could be replaced with a short, second wash of grain! Of course some of the modifications required would include: disabling automated timing cycles, controlling mash temperature, modifing washer spin basket to retain grain husks. How the heck would you ge the spent grain out? I'm very interested in hearing comments or suggestions ( sober or not) . J Lambert < maltstir at aol.com > Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 94 22:57:36 CDT From: Phil Miller <C616063 at MIZZOU1.missouri.edu> Subject: Preserving brew How long can one expect a batch of brew to keep after it is bottled? What could one add to make it last longer that wont kill me or the beer? Posts or personal email are fine. Phil Miller c616063 at mizzou1.missouri.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1442, 06/06/94