HOMEBREW Digest #1475 Thu 14 July 1994

Digest #1474 Digest #1476

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Grains pt 1, of 2 (Jim Busch)
  Grains, pt 2 of 2 (Jim Busch)
  Malt FAQ (Thomas Aylesworth        )
  Easy Scrubber (Gregg Tennefoss)
  CO2 - Bicarbonate;  CSTR Reactors (Kelly Jones)
  A-B:  Brewer or Giant Corporation? (Alan P Van Dyke)
  Carrying hot pots (KWH)
  Partial mash Qs--mash duration/sparge volume (David Draper)
  Clubs/Adams Bashing? (508) 632-1603" <KOBELM at a1.mec.mass.edu>
  Carboy Bunging Problem (Tony McCauley)
  Answers to suspended trub & S.G. (pittock)
  Re:  Oak Chips Summary (Allan Rubinoff)
  Re: secret bud strategy (wegeng.XKeys)
  Summary of Sludge responses (jmd)
  boil mead or not? (Montgomery_John)
  Re: Heineken and skunkiness (Tel +44 784 443167)
  WATER,BY-LAWS, megabrewers (HOMEBRE973)
  houston,seattle,anchorage brewpubs (Larry Bellmard)
  Clogged wort filter (David Deaven)
  Dry Yeast vs Liquid Yeast- (RobertS735)
  Recipe Requested (SSDS - Denver) <top at denver.ssds.com>
  Elk Mountain Amber Ale/O2 during racking/extract yield/trub & SG (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Jul 1994 15:26:12 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Grains pt 1, of 2 The following information was provided from the Brewers Resource folks. I have added some comments/opinions , as well as some info on maltsters. This is a first draft of something we (John Palmer and others) would like have online as a part of a primer on Mashing and grains. Please forward constructive comments/opinions/critisisms to myself or John. Prosit! Jim Busch ##################### All About Grains 101, revision 1 ##################### July, 1994 -American Malts - Pale Malt (2 Row, Klages) The basic malt for brewing all grain beers from scratch. Being American grown, high in diastatic power, well modified and fairly neutral, Klages makes an excellent base malt. Best for both American Lager and Ale styles, Klages lends itself well to all beer styles. Examples: Briess, Shreier, Froedterts. Froedterts is slightly darker than Briess and Shrier. It is currently used at the Baltimore Brewing Co and the Alleghaney Brewing Co, two quality German style micros. Alleghaney uses a decoction mashing program with this malt. Great Western is also a common variety of this malt. (Alleghaney Brewing Co has just been renamed as the Penn Brewery). Wheat Malt (Malted Wheat). Use to make wheat and weizen beers. Also, small amounts (3-6 %) aid in head retention to any beer without altering final flavor. Use 5 to 70 % in the mash, 40 to 70 % being the norm for wheat beers, combined with a high enzyme malt such as Klages. examples are: Briess (cattle feed due to excessive protein levels) Gambrinus (canadian, high protein wheat) Ireks (German), DeWolf-Cosyns. Imported varieties have lower protein levels. In Germany, a weizen must be of at least 50% wheat malt, as measured in the final beer. This means if a weizen is made of 55% wheat, and subsequently krausened with say Helles krausen, the amount of krausen must not reduce the final proportion of wheat to below 50%. Germans are like that! Vienna Malt (Lightly kilned) 4L Vienna malt is kiln dried at a higher temperature than pale malt yet still retains sufficient enzyme power for use as 60 to 100% of total mash grist. Vienna is a rich, aromatic malt that will lend a deep color and full flavor to your finest Vienna or Marzen beers. Munich Malt (Domestic) 10 L A little darker than our German Munich malt, use our Domestic Munich to add a deeper color and fuller malt profile. An excellent choice for Dark and amber lagers, blend Munich with German Pils or Klages at the rate of 10 to 60% of the total grist. Darker grades of Munich are available from contential maltsters. Essential ingrediant in German Bock beers. Carapils (Dextrin Malt) Dextrins lend body, mouthfeel and palate fullness to beers, as well as foam stability. Carapils must be mashed with pale malt, due to its lack of enzymes. Use 5 to 20% for these properties without adding color or having to mash at higher temperatures. Some brewers dislike the almost cloying sweetness that high amounts (10%) of Dextrin malt contributes. Light Crystal (Caramel Malt) 10 L 5 to 20% will lend body and mouthfeel with a minimum of color, much like Carapils, but with a light crystal sweetness. Also sold as CaraPils from the Dewolf-Cosyns maltster. My own opinion is that this is a much better choice in malt sweetness/body builder than the US Dextrin malt version. Pale Crystal (Caramel Malt) 40 L As with all Crystal malts, the character of this malt is contributed by unfermentable crystallized sugars produced by a special process Called "stewing". 5 to 20 % Pale Crystal will lend a balance of light caramel color, flavor, and body to Ales and Lagers. Caramel 40 is a mainstay malt in brewing of all types of ales. It can be used in British and American ales, and in conjunction with other malts in Belgian ales and German lagers. Hugh Baird Maltings in Witham , Essex, England make very fine high grade caramel malts. US domestic specialties are made from 6 row malt, whereas the European vesions are 2 row. This makes imported specialties a much higher quality product. The grain kernels are also plumper and as such will mill better than 6 row malts. Medium Crystal (Caramel Malt) 60 L This Crystal malt is well suited to all beer recipes calling for crystal malt and is a good choice if you're not sure which variety to use. 5 to 15% of 60 L Crystal malt will lend a well rounded caramel flavor, color and sweetness to your finest Ales. Dark Crystal (Caramel Malt) 120 L 5 to 15% will lend a complex bitter/sweet caramel flavor and aroma to beers. Used in smaller quantities this malt will add color and slight sweetness to beers, while heavier concentrations are well suited to strong beers such as Barley Wines and Old Ales. Victory Malt (Aroma & flavor malt) 25 L A unique, lightly roasted malt that provides a warm "biscuity " character to Ales and Lagers. Use 5 to 15 % to add a fuller flavor and aroma to Ales, Porters and full flavored, dark Lagers where a bigger malt character is desired without crystal malt sweetness. D/C Biscuit malt fits in here also. Biscuity/toasted flavors and aromas result from the use of this malt. Special Roast (Aroma & flavor malt) 50L Pale roasted to lend an unmistakable, toasted malt flavor and aroma and amber, red-orange color to beer. At the rate of 3 to 10% Special Roast is an excellent addition to your Vienna, Marzen and Alt beers or in recipes calling for Amber malt. Chocolate Malt (Roasted, black malt) Being the least roasted of the black malts, Chocolate malt will add a dark color and pleasant roast flavor. Small quantities lend a nutty flavor and deep, ruby red color while higher amounts lend a black color and smooth, roasted flavor. Use 3 to 12%. Chocolate is an essential ingrediant in Porters, along with Caramel malts. Used in smaller quantities in Brown ales, old ales and some Barleywines. Roast Barley (Black, Unmalted Barley) Use 10 to 12% to impart a distinct, roasted flavor to Stouts. Other dark beers also benefit from smaller quantities (2 - 6%). Essential ingrediant in Stouts. Small amounts are OK in Porters, provided they dont overpower the chocolate/caramel notes. Rarely used in any Belgian ales or German Lagers B1ack Patent (H ighly roasted black malt) The darkest of all malts, use sparingly to add deep color and roast-charcoal flavor. Use no more than 1 to 3%. Best used in trace amounts only, for color. Almost any contribution that Black Patent gives to beer can be obtained from using another malt with less harsh flavor impacts. **********end pt 1************** Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 1994 15:26:46 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Grains, pt 2 of 2 ************pt 2 of 2************** - German Grain Malts - German Pale Malt (2 Row, Pilsner Malt) 1.8 L A quality German two row malt. Produces a smooth, grainy flavor. Use in your finest German Lagers and Alt Beers. Weizen - (Wheat Malt) ~ L German Wheat malt is the perfect ingredient for Weiss, Weizen and Berl iner Weiss beers. Blended in proportions of 20 to 70% with pale malts, weizen malt is the perfect companion for German wheat strains for a full flavored, classic wheat beer. Weiner - (Vienna Malt) 3 L German Vienna is high in diastatic power, meaning you can use it as 100% of the total grist for a fuller, deeper malt flavor and aroma. Munchener (Munich Malt) 6 L A true Munich variety that has undergone higher kilning than the pale malt. German Munich still retains sufficient enzymes for 100% of the grist, or it can be used at the rate of 20 to 75 % of the total malt content in Lagers for its full, malty flavor and aroma. Crystal - (Med. Caramel) 50 L Use 3 to 20% of German Caramel malt to add color, sweetness and body to European lagers Viennas and Marzen/Oktoberfest lagers. - British Grain Malts - English Pale Malt (British, 2 Row) Fully modified British malt, easily converted by a single temperature mash. Preferred by many brewers for full flavored ales. Pale Ale malt has undergone higher kilning than Klages and is lower in diastatic power so keep adjuncts to 15 % or less. English Crystal (Caramel Malt) 37 L Also known as CaraStan, use 5 to 20% of our English Crystal to add color and a full, toffee/sweet flavor to Bitters, Pale Ales and Porters. Scottish Crystal - (Caramel Malt) 90 L Will lend a deep amber to red color and a full bodied, toasted/caramel like flavor to the finest Scottish and European ales. Chocolate Malt - ( Brown malt) 400 L British Chocolate malt is ideal for British Porters and Brown or Mild Ales and even Stouts. It's a little darker than domestic Chocolate malt yet it has a slightly smoother character in the roast flavor and aroma profiles. Highly recommended. - Belgian Grain Malts Belgian Pils (European 2-Row) 1.8 L This is an excellent base malt for many styles, including full flavored Lagers, Belgian Ales and European Wheat beers. Aromatic (Mildly Kilned) 26 L Used at rates of up to 10%, Aromatic malt will lend a distinct, almost exaggerated malt aroma and flavor to the finished Ales and Lagers. Aromatic malt also has a rich color and is high in diastatic power for aid in starch conversion. D/C Aromatic malt. As the name suggests, adds aromatics to a beer. At 25 Lovi, it is grouped in the upper end of the "Munich Malts" category. It shows conversion by itself, with a diastatic power of 29, as compared to D/C munich with a DP of 50 and Pils with a DP of 105. When using Aromatic malts, be sure to calculate the additional extract and color that will be added, since this malt contributes both. Biscuit Malt - (Pale Roast) 23 L Biscuit is a unique malt thats lightly roasted, lending the subtle properties of black and chocolate malts. Used at the rate of 3 to 15 %, it is designed to improve the bread & biscuits , or toasted flavor and aroma characteristics to Lagers and Ales. CaraVienne - (Lt. Caramel) 22 L As with normal Crystal malts CaraVienne is non-enzymatic. It does, however, impart a rich, caramel-sweet aroma to the wort and promotes a fuller flavored beer at rates of 5 to 20 % of grist total. D/C: CaraVienna, ~22 Lovi. Another excellent all purpose caramel malt. Can be used in high percentages (up to 15%) wothout leaving the beer too caramel/sweet. Good to use in conjunction with Munich malts and Pils malt for a Maerzen base. Also good for use in many Belgian style ales, in conjunction with other Belgian color malts. CaraMunich - (Med. Caramel) 72 L Use CaraMunich for a deeper color in Ales and Lagers, and in small amounts in Lagers. 5 to 15% will also lend a fuller flavor, contribute to foam stability, add unfermentable, caramelized sugars and contribute a rich malt aroma. Excellent malt to use as a suplement to other caramel malts. I tend to use 7-10% caraVienna and 3% CaraMunich as a amber beer base which would include Munich and Pils malt. Bamburg Rauchbier malt: ?green? malt is "kilned"/dryed over a beechwood fire. Some US brewers use malt smoked over Adler. Depending on the amount of smoking, the malt can be used in 100% of the mash, as some Bamberg brewers do, or used as a flavoring malt in the 10-30% range. Imparts a distinct smoked character to the beer. Rauchbiers should be based on a Maerzen recipe and adjusted using Rauchbier malt, which shifts the color from amber to dark amber/light porter. Peated Malt: sold by Hugh Baird. Adds Peated flavors, good in small amounts for Scottish ales. Raw Wheat: used in Wit biers at 45% of grist and in Lambics at 30%. Contributes a permenant starch haze to the beer. Common Maltsters: Briess Malting Co: 29 S. Columbia St, Chilton WI, 53014 Canada Malting Co: 21 Four Seasons Pl, Suite 325, Toronto, Ontario DeWolf-Cosyns (distributed by Shreirer) Froedtert Malt Corp: PO Box 712, Milwaukee, WI, 53201 Gambrinus malting Corp: 1101 Industrial Dr, RR#3,C-86,Palisades, Armstrong, B.C., VOE 1B0 Great Western Malting: PO Box 1529, Vancouver, WA, 98668. Hugh Baird (distributed by Great Western) Munton & Fison (imported by Crosby and Baker ==$$$) Schreier Malting Co: PO Box 59, Sheboygan, WI, 53082. Importers: Crosby & Baker: 999 Main Raod, Box 3409, Westport, MA 02790 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 94 15:51:34 EST From: Thomas Aylesworth <t_aylesworth at lfs.loral.com> Subject: Malt FAQ In Tuesday's HBD, someone asked about the difference between various malts - particularly the differences between malts made in different countries. This topic seems to come up quite a bit, and is obviously of great interest to those of us just starting to do partial mash and/or all-grain brewing. The last time this came up, someone (Jeff Frane?) mentioned that they thought a Malt FAQ existed. Well, I searched sierra and could find no such beast. Does such a thing exist? If so, how can I find it? If not, would it be possible to convince one of you generous, experienced all-grainers to create one? I would be happy to donate a significant amount of time to the project, but have no experience with the grains in question. If someone would be willing to provide the expertise, but did not want to spend time searching the HBD archives, typing, proofreading, etc., please let me know and maybe we could make this a joint project (obviously with those providing the expertise getting the credit). BTW, the yeast and hop FAQs are both excellent, and us amateurs really do appreciate all the hard work that has gone into maintaining them! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Thomas Aylesworth | t_aylesworth at lfs.loral.com Space Processor Software Engineering | Loral Federal Systems, Manassas, VA | (703) 367-6171 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 1994 16:22:42 -0400 (EDT) From: greggt at infi.net (Gregg Tennefoss) Subject: Easy Scrubber It's here !!! The Easy Scrubber Actually it's a toilet brush, but for a single dollar and a few quick modifications, it becomes a very sturdy carboy brush. Find one that has a wooden handle and remove the brush from the handle. Straighten out the brush and reinsert only one side back into the handle. A little epoxy may be needed to hold the brush in. Next, trim the wire on the end not reinserted and bend it back to prevent sharp edges. Next form the brush into the desired shape and scrub away. Not a bad brush for a buck !!! Wouldn't A/B have a ball with this !! cheers Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 94 14:23:55 -0600 From: Kelly Jones <k-jones at ee.utah.edu> Subject: CO2 - Bicarbonate; CSTR Reactors Some questions were raised in HBD 1473 about the efficiency of CSTRs versus recirculation reactors, and how this relates to RIMS, etc. Since my education is in chemical engineering, I'll try to answer this: A CSTR is a reactor for a _continuous_ reaction, that is, you always have reactants flowing in and products flowing out. Of course, since the tank is well stirred, some of what flows out is also unreacted reactants, so efficiency is never 100%. A recirculation reactor is also a _continuous_ reactor, and may well be more efficient, depending on process conditions. Unfortunately, the question is moot. Homebrewers do not do _continuous_ reactions, they do _batch_ reactions. They start with a given amount of reactants (water and grains) and end some time later with a given amount of product (sugars). RIMS and paddle-stirrers are both techniques for mixing the batch, which may enhance yield, but neither of these techniques constitutes either a CSTR or a recirculation reactor. Someone else asks about CO2 chemistry, in beer vs blood. The relevant equation is H2O + CO2 <--> H2CO2 (carbonic acid) <--> H+ + HCO3- (bicarb) So, dissolution of CO2 results in the formation of carbonic acid, which dissociates to form bicarbonate and hydronium (acid). Because hydronium is released, this acidifies the solution, whether it's water, beer, or blood. (Of course, blood has some very spepcial organic buffers which are very efficient, so the actual pH change in blood will be much less). Adding bicarbonate in this matter will not raise pH, as your friend asserts. He is confusing this with the addition of a bicarbonate salt, as in NaHCO3 + H2O <--> Na+ + HCO3- + H2O <--> Na+ + H2CO3 + OH- which releases hydroxide and hence makes the solution more basic. On another note: The only thing more hilarious than AB spending millions to bash homebrewers, is homebrewers caring enough about what AB says to actually whine about it. Kelly Return to table of contents
Date: Tuesday, 12 July 94 16:00:28 CST From: Alan P Van Dyke <llapv at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu> Subject: A-B: Brewer or Giant Corporation? Howdy, In reading all this discussion about Anheuser-Busch, I think everyone out there needs to keep some perspective on what A-B is. It is a very big company. It is a diversified company. It is a powerful company. It makes beer, yes, but it is a *product*. I could be cookies or motor oil, as far as A-B is concerned. August Busch III is an executive who inherited his position, he is not a brewer who gave up everything to chase a hope. He has a goal of selling 50% of the beer in this country by the end of the decade, & he's damn close. He's gonna do what it takes. Besides, is it unusual for a large company to buy into other smaller companies? It works out for both; the large company has investments elsewhere, & the smaller one has some extra cash to work with. It happens everyday, even in the beer world. Can you fault A-B for doing that? Can you fault them for their marketing? They spend lots of money researching what marketing strategies to make, & it usually pays off. You notice they didn't jump on the clear beer wagon, either. Anheuser-Busch is #41 on the Fortune 500 list. They sell one of the most popular products in the United States. They want to sell something to everyone, or at least have a stake in it. This is how big business works in America. Should they be any different because they make beer? Me? I'll be happy to drink a Budvar, as long as no one was killed to get it to me. I do boycott Nestle, though. Alan of Austin Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 94 17:12 From: KWH at roadnet.ups.com (KWH) Subject: Carrying hot pots john.dodson at cantina.com (John Dodson) brought up the point of carrying pots of hot wort in his article on wort chilling in today's digest: >One CAUTIONary note. Lugging around pots of boiling wort is dangerous. >Spilling hot wort on one's front section can be inconvenient... causing >hospitalization and death! Inspect the handles on your brewpot often >(I'd be particulary leery of low-end enameled steel pots). If possible, >setup your chilling operation next to your boiling operation to minimize >the lugging or get a friend or spouse to help carry. Duct tape the lid >on to minimize effects of an unexpected slosh. I have been trying to come up with a better way to handle pots of hot wort. I have one of the 33qt enamel pots and the handles are a joke. I have heard people caution against lifting any practical weight with these, and I agree wholeheartedly. Some people use pot holders to lift the pot from under the rim or lip. I also question how safe/practical this is. I have used this method up until now, but I'm not very comfortable with it. I have been wondering if it would be possible to build a collar that would fit VERY snugly around the pot, between the lip at the top of the pot and the existing handles. If done properly, the collar would exert even pressure around the entire circumference and still give the user a steady, cool handle to lift the pot with. It would have to be slipped onto the pot from the bottom, and worked up to the top. Cutouts would have to be made to get over the existing handles. After passing the handles, a 90 degree turn would let the collar set on the existing handles throughout the procedure. Is this absolutely crazy? I have been thinking that this could not possibly work, but then again, why not? There are several questions that I have not addressed, including (but not limited to), the strength of the lip at the top of the pot, heat shrinkage of materials and assumption of a perfect cylinder (a taper at the top would make this impossible). If this idea gets me flamed back to the Stone Age, I guess I deserve it -- it's not a very well thought out approach. However, there are a lot of handymen on the net that may be able to take this idea and run with it. Rudimentry Ascii graphics: TOP VIEW EXPLANATIONS ----------------------------------- | | | ___ (a) | (a) holes cut in order | | | | to slip collar over | /-------\ | existing pot handles | / \ | | / \ | (b) position of existing | | | | pot handles under |-- -| (as close to |- --| collar | | (b)|| a circle as ||(b) | | | | || I can draw) || | |(c) (c) handles cut in collar | | -| |- | | to actually lift pot |-- | | --| with | \ / | | \ / | | \-------/ | | |___| | | (a) | ----------------------------------- SIDE VIEW lip of lip of pot pot | | V V _ _ --------|-----------------|-------- | | | | proposed collar --------|-----------------|-------- _| |_ |_| |_| <- existing | | useless |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| handle | | | 5 gallons | | hot wort | | | | | |_________________| Any ideas, suggestions, constructive comments and yes, flames, are welcome public or private. Kirk Harralson Q: How many home brewers does it take to screw in a light bulb? A: A third less that a regular bulb. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 10:56:08 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <David.Draper at mq.edu.au> Subject: Partial mash Qs--mash duration/sparge volume Dear Friends, I will be doing my first partial mash this weekend and am looking for some advice. I have Miller's _Brewing The World's Great Beers_ and Line's _Big Book of Brewing_ to refer to. First, I am wondering about the duration of the mash. I know that once starch conversion is complete, additional time is required for beta amylase to convert the dextrins produced by alpha amylase into maltose, so that a successful iodine test is not the signal to begin sparging. Miller describes an hour as sufficient time for a partial mash, but specifies at least two hours for a full mash. This difference suggests that mash time is some kind of an extensive variable, i.e. depends on the size of the system. Because the amounts and proportions of sugars produced by the two enzymes are functions of the composition of the grist, it occurs to me that a batch of goods (grains and water in the proper proportion) made, say, with 90% 2-row and 10% caramel malts should require the same mash time whether there are 3 kg or 30 kg of these goods. I also know that too long a mash results in too great a proportion of maltose to dextrins, resulting in a thin brew. So for my planned mash (I'm shooting for an Altbier), consisting of 2 kg (4.4 lb) of 2-row lager malt, 500-gr (1.1 lb) of 15L Munich, and 50 gr (1.75 oz) each of black malt, wheat malt, and flaked barley, will an hour be sufficient or should I do two hours despite Miller's recommendation? BTW, I am told that the 2-row available at my local shop is pretty well-modified. Second question: volume of sparge water. My limiting factor is the size of my brewkettle, which is 17 litres (4.5 gal). I reckon I would not want more than 15 litres (4 gal) in there at the start of boiling; and I intend to add 1.5 kg (3.3 lb) of light extract syrup (which I measure to have a volume of just over 1 litre or about a quart). Thus I would be limited to about 14 litres (3.7 gal) of grain-based wort. The accounts I have of doing all-grain brews describe sparging with enough liquid so that one has about 20% more liquid than final batch size to allow for evaporation during the boil, but I have seen no mention of a minimum recommended sparge volume. My plan is to dough-in the above grist with 7.2 litres (1.9 gal) of water at the start and sparge with about 8 litres (2.1 gal) of water. I would guess that there would be just over 14 litres (3.7 gal) total liquid after sparging, since I expect some liquid to be retained in the grain bed. BTW, I will be sparging using a drilled-bucket inside another bucket system graciously provided by the Legless Brewing Co., A. Walsh prop. Can I hope to get most of the extract out of my grain? 100% efficiency for the above scheme would give a gravity for the 14+ litres of grain-based wort of about 1050, so I will be able to determine how well I did after the fact; I am just looking for a little guidance (handholding?) before the fact. Many thanks for any comments--email is fine but posting might be useful too. Cheers, Dave in Sydney - -- ****************************************************************************** David S. Draper School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia Fax: +61-2-805-8428 Voice: +61-2-805-8347 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 1994 21:29:00 -0400 From: "Mark Kobel, Gardner Jr. High S (508) 632-1603" <KOBELM at a1.mec.mass.edu> Subject: Clubs/Adams Bashing? Greetings Brewmasters, In addition to the earlier posting for brew club by-laws, I'd be interested in info relating to brew club newsletters. We have a new club, 3 months old, here in central Massachusetts and somehow I got involved in the club newsletter, (I thought I knew better)so I'm looking for any advice or help. Now for the risky part. I've been reading HBD for 3 months and I am curious (some may say naive) about the Sam Adams bashing. I have tried the SA lager, cream stout, honey porter, double bock, and dunkel weizen. I haven't been offended. When in a package store, to buy wine for my wife of course, I usually pick up a single or to of something new to try. SA seems to have a good variety and decent taste. So what is all this anti-sam stuff about? Summary will be posted if warranted. **** |~~~| | | ) enjoy a homebrew, `---' Mark Kobel kobelm at a1.mec.mass.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 1994 23:20:51 -0500 (CDT) From: afmccaul at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Tony McCauley) Subject: Carboy Bunging Problem An interesting question came up in our club meeting last night that I want to present to the masses for a solution suggestion. Seems that the brewer in question (or is he a questionable brewer) got a little zealous banging the bung into the neck of a carboy. The bung has passed through the neck and now can bounce merrily about inside the carboy. I suggested that the carboy make good solid contact with his garage floor or a hammer. Any ideas out there in HBD land to retrieve a wayward bung from it's new home? Thanks, Tony McCauley -- afmccaul at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu P.S. -- He has promised to buy bigger bungs for his carboys from now on. . Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 18:08:05 +1000 From: pittock at rsbs8.anu.edu.au Subject: Answers to suspended trub & S.G. >From: especkma at reed.edu (Erik Speckman) >Subject: The effect of cold break on hydrometer readings. >>From: pittock at rsbs2.anu.edu.au >Asks what he should do to prevent floating cold break from effecting his SG >readings. > >Take a toy boat and put it in a bathtub full of water. Mark the water >line. Now float a bunch of rubber duckies in the tub. The waterline will >be at the same level on your boat. Fill the ruberduckies part way with >water so they sit below the surface. No difference. > >[hint, the boat is your hydrometer] > >This doesn't preclude some effect from break material sticking to the >hydrometer. Gotcha. Now if you thought I was being finnicky there, then answer this: How do I sterilise the toy boat?!? And then calibrate the boat with a plimsol-line and use it to do the S.G! [couldn't resist that one...] >From: Tom Clifton <0002419419 at mcimail.com> > In my experience it doesn't seem to make any difference. Try it > both ways and if your hydrometer is calibrated in .002 increments > like mine is you won't be able to tell any difference. I have > started drawing a sample into a pint jar and sticking it in the > fridge to lower the temp to 60 degrees so I don't have to subtract > points to correct for temperature. It also gives the wort (or beer) > time to clear some so the question above is moot... [also suggests that pitching yeast, and measuring S.G. late makes no real *measurable* difference] >From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans) >Subject: Re: Trub & specific gravity > >Chris: Probably a little "don't worry, have a homebrew" is in order here. [also suggested that if it ain't dissolved - it has no effect]. Thanks! \\|// . o ____________ Chris Pittock 06)2495099 o-O O-o O ( Yeast, hop ) pittock at rsbs0.anu.edu.au | U | () ( & charity... ) PO Box 475 Canberra City { - } (____________) ACT 2601 Australia. /|\ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 94 08:39:40 EDT From: Allan Rubinoff <rubinoff at BBN.COM> Subject: Re: Oak Chips Summary In HBD #1474, gam at beluga.must.com (Guy Mason) writes: > Here is a summary of replies to Oak Chips in Pale Ale posting : <summary deleted> An additional point: If your goal is to make an authentic English pale ale, you should omit the oak chips entirely. Some homebrewers use oak chips in pale ales (especially IPAs) based on the mistaken assumption that the oak barrels that IPAs used to be shipped in imparted a flavor. In fact, the barrels were lined with pitch and would have added no flavor. On the other hand, if you really want to experiment with oak flavor, by all means go ahead -- the effect might be interesting. But if authenticity is what you're after, skip the oak chips. -Allan Rubinoff <rubinoff at bbn.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 05:54:46 PDT From: wegeng.XKeys at xerox.com Subject: Re: secret bud strategy In HBD #1474, al.vaughn at castles.com (Al Vaughn) says: >As far as I know, Bud has already brewed their own >version of a "handcrafted" (liberal on the quotes O.K.) brew called Elk >Mountain Amber Ale. That`s interesting. The July 4 installment of National Public Radio`s "All Things Considered" had a segment on craft beers, and stated that A-B was not going to follow Coors and Miller into this market. Apparently they were wrong. On the other hand, this same segment stated that Coors` eisbock is a wheat beer, and identified AHA`s Karen Barella as president of a microbrewery in Denver. It was nice to hear ATC talking about craft brewing, but it`s a shame that they got many of the facts wrong. /Don dlw.xkeys at xerox.com Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Jul 94 13:33:00 GMT From: jmd at mtunh.att.com Subject: Summary of Sludge responses Thanks to all who responded to my sludge posting. If you recall, I had a problem with clogs when using hop pellots filtering my wort. Here is a summary of the private responses I got. The problem was reported as trub which I do want to remove from my wort. Most of the responses suggested I switch to whole hops which won't have this problem and would even help by providing a nice leaf bed which itself acts as a filter. Jeff Other responses: |Your problem may be that you are using hop pellets. I switched |to plugs about a year ago for the same reason. The plugs are |closer to whole leaf when they "un-plug" vs. the dust I got from |pellets. (I spend approx. $.50 more per ounce for the plugs.) |In my experience the stuff that's clogging your funnel filter is mostly hops. |I use a pretty darn big funnel and keep a sanitized spoon handy to dredge some |of that glop out of there when it gets too clogged. I haven't had any |sanitation problems with this method. |One day my wife came home from the gourmet kitchen shop at the mall with |two what I would call stainless steel strainers made somewhere in Japan or |Taiwan. The big one EXACTLY FIT the eight in opening of the funnel. |They have a one-half inch rim and a deeply domed mesh and a wire formed |handle for easy handling. The key element is the deeply doming of the mesh. |And also the large diameter. As the sludge builds up in the bottom of the |dome (depression), the wort just moves up higher in the mesh. Bottom line, |next batch, at least as much sludge...absolutely no problem. The more novel approaches: |My solution for sludge is to just boil the hops in plain water. Strain out |the hops and add the extract to the hot water. NO SLUDGE and NO BOILOVER. |The extract has been boiled already, that's how it became extract. If you |try this, reduce your hops to about 5/8 of what you would normally use |because utilization is much higher. |Clean, sanitize, "de-feet" a pair of knee-high Legg's(TM). |Attach to the bottom of your funnel. Sparge and top up carboy. |Hold top of hose, bottom of funnel and lift. The hops and gunk will |a large ball that you must slowly pull up and out. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 94 08:51:00 CST From: Montgomery_John at lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil Subject: boil mead or not? Hello all, I have hopes of making an orange melomel as prescribed by Acton and Duncan, but am confused on one point. They call for the addition of campden tablets and shun boiling for sterilization. Where does one find campden tablets? My mail order catalog doesn't list them. Should I use them instead of boiling - will it result in a better product? Has anyone made an orange melomel? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. john montgomery_john at lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 15:08:04 +0000 From: Brian Gowland <B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk> (Tel +44 784 443167) Subject: Re: Heineken and skunkiness I'm not familiar with the skunkiness of Heineken but could it be a high level of dimethyl sulphide? Cheers, Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 94 10:18:28 EDT From: HOMEBRE973 at aol.com Subject: WATER,BY-LAWS, megabrewers John Isenhour asks about water chemistry pH. Yes, if you add CO2 to water you get carbonic acid and it becomes acidic--lower pH. However, it is not that simple because the minerals in the water have a great effect on the pH. Calcium especially tends to buffer the action of CO2. CaCO2 will dissolve in acidic waters and neutralize the effects of theaddition of CO2. Also, the addition of bicarbonates will tend to neutralize the acids and raise the pH. - ----- People ask why brew-clubs need bylaws. They don't always but it helps to set dues, have an orderly succession of officers, and to have some control on how funds are spent. - ---- I for one would wish people not waste bandwidth talking about the products, adds, etc of CoorMIllBUdMIcweizer. Who gives a $# at & at #. They don't effect us and we don't effect them. Andy Kligerman nanobrewer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 94 09:01:33 -0500 From: dev1!larryb at dev4.ssd.fsi.com (Larry Bellmard) Subject: houston,seattle,anchorage brewpubs Hey, I hate to waste the space, but... I'm heading to Anchorage and have a few lengthy layovers and am looking for brewpubs near the Houston (9 hr layover on a Sunday, does the Johnson Space Center serve beer?) and Seattle airports. I would rather get drunk in a bad brewpub than in an airport. Also, anything (beer related) in Anchorage or close? Private email please. TIA, LB Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 09:59:59 -0500 From: David Deaven <deaven at ishmael.ameslab.gov> Subject: Clogged wort filter I saw a few posts discussing easy ways to "filter" the hop gunk from wort on its way to the primary fermenter. For the past three batches I have been using a neat little gizmo constructed from a 2" stainless steel kitchen strainer. I removed the plastic handle and inserted a copper tube into the side of the filter (puncture the steel screen). The wire around the rim of the filter, which used to secure the handle, can be wrapped around the tubing to secure it. This is the "pickup screen" I then use in the bottom of the brew kettle. (I think an EasyMasher(tm) from JS would do a better job, but I haven't committed my brew pot to beer yet.) The other end of the copper tubing goes up out of the kettle to my counterflow chiller, and into the fermenter: +---> to chiller | | | screen | | | \ _____ | | <-- 1/4" copper tube bottom | /....-\--------/ | of | |.....--|--------/ kettle ---> +-------------------------- This setup allows me to start the transfer to the primary right after the boil is done, when the hop gunk is still swirling in suspension. I had tried holes drilled into the copper tube, but they clogged easily. I had one batch clog the screen, but it was easy to unclog by rapidly raising and lowering the pickup. Make sure you get a fine screen, and also that it is steel and not plastic (the handle can be plastic, but you throw that away). Also, let me sneak an encouragement into this post: if you have ever wanted to try a "ginger" beer, DO IT!!!! My first one has been in the bottles about a week and already is quite tasty. I followed a combination of the cat's meow recipes, adding half of my grated ginger at the end of the boil to boost the raw ginger flavor. Wow! David Deaven <deaven at ishmael.ameslab.gov> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 09:59:53 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: splashing into secondary In HBD 1474, Chuck E. Mryglot asks about splashing into the secondary. Don't do it! Aeration at this stage will lead to cardboard and/or band-aid flavors in your beer (or mead or whatever). I use a long flex tube to siphon with, and I attach a hard plastic tube to the end of the flex in order to keep the good stuff running to the the bottom of the carboy. Don't splash! Rich Webb Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 94 13:30:46 EDT From: RobertS735 at aol.com Subject: Dry Yeast vs Liquid Yeast- The consensus answer to my question- which was, " why is liquid yeast better then re-hydrated dry yeast." is as follows: 1.- The drying process damages the "pure" yeast strains which are delicate, so, in order to produce viable dry yeast- the manufacturers use strains that are hearty- but may not be optimum (for the job you had in-mind). 2. It is suggested also that the drying and packaging process may expose the yeast to contamination risk which is not encountered in liquid yeast. IMNSHO "graduating" to liquid yeast cultures is one of the most effective, and least costly methods possible to produce a quantum leap in your beer's quality... Brew-On Robert Stovall Melbourne, Fl Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 94 11:35:56 MDT From: Rory Porth (SSDS - Denver) <top at denver.ssds.com> Subject: Recipe Requested To all: I am trying to reverse engineer a beer from a brewpub in San Jose area. The place is called "Tied House". They have a pub in San Jose and one in Mountain View. I used to live there, now live in Denver and miss their brews very much. I'd like to try to build their "Tied House Amber" which is definitely one of my favorite beers (along with my wife). I will do either extract or all-grain for this, so if you can give me some hints, I'd appreciate it! Rory Porth top at ssds.com - --------------------------------------------------------- Everybody needs something to believe in - I believe I'll have another beer. - --------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Jul 94 18:07:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Elk Mountain Amber Ale/O2 during racking/extract yield/trub & SG Al Vaughn writes: >out Red Hook. As far as I know, Bud has already brewed their own >version of a "handcrafted" (liberal on the quotes O.K.) brew called Elk >Mountain Amber Ale. The name is after their hop fields in Idaho. They <snip> >Fairfield, CA and some say it is pretty good for a beer by the biggies. I agree. It's the best beer I've tasted from one of the Industrial Brewers. Has some similarity to Samuel(tm) Adams(tm) Boston(tm) Lager(tm) in terms of carameliness, lots of hop flavor and general color. I think it's a fair-to-good beer and would drink it again. I had it at the Paramount Cafe on 16th street in Denver. ****** Chuck writes: >Now my question is, when I rack this to secondary and then later >to a keg, should I take careful steps to make sure I do not splash >the wort around? Will adding more oxygen at these points adversely >affect the beer? If yes, what is the affect? Yes. Yes. Adding oxygen during fermentation will elevate diacetyl (butterscotch aroma/flavor) levels and adding oxygen after fermentation will reduce hop aroma and will shorten shelf life (ever try air-pumped keg beer on the morning after?). ******** ChuckM writes: > 2. I mash in a picnic cooler with a slotted pipe manifold. My yields > are always just shy of 25 pts/lb/gal. I was thinking of changing > from a manifold to an Easymasher type of drain in order to improve > on yield. In addition to grain crush being a factor in yield as others have mentioned, there are a number of other factors that increase yield: 1. sparge volume (if you simply stopped sparging when you reached 5 gal, then you left a lot of sugars in the grain bed -- watch the pH and SG of the runnings to decide when to stop and then boil this volume down to 5 gal), 2. mash pH (a pH much higher than 5.7 or so will impede enzyme activity), and 3. grain quality (fresh, high-quality, 2-row, freshly-crushed will give you the best yield). ******** A number of repliers said: >Trub has no effect on SG readings. I measured the SG of a well-fermented-out ale a few weeks ago from a trub- and-yeast-clouded sample. The SG (measured at 68F) read 1.013. The next morning, the hydrometer was still sitting in the sample, but the trub/yeast had settled and the hydrometer read 1.011 (still at 68F). Hmmm... One data point, but I will repeat said experiment a few more times and see if I can duplicate it. Perhaps the analogy of rocks and logs is not analogous? Perhaps some CO2 that was sticking to the hydrometer bubbled out, perhaps the temperatures were not both 68F (couldn't have been more than 5 degrees apart at most), perhaps I misread the hydrometer one of the times... Al. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1475, 07/14/94