HOMEBREW Digest #1517 Sat 03 September 1994

Digest #1516 Digest #1518

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Re: Homebrew on the www (John Adams)
  Re: Advertising on HBD (Mark Bellefeuille)
  Seattle Ale Festival ("A. Sturdivant \"Sturdy\" McKee")
  Neophyte questions & thanks (St. Rich Brewing Co., Huntsville, AL)
  sfd (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Peat Smoked Malt (Don Rudolph)
  How to prepare polyclar / philchill fittings (Tom Riddle)
  Re: Wort Chiller Construction (John Hartman)
  bad citizens (John Lenz) jel3 at cornell.edu
  Temp controller (Gregg Tennefoss)
  IBU reference (Bill Sutton)
  SG calculations (Bill Sutton)
  pepper beer (RONALD DWELLE)
  wheat beer follies ("Dulisse, Brian")
  Cavebrew ? (Richard A Childers)
  Elderberry Wine ... (Richard A Childers)
  Propane cooker results (smtplink!guym)
  United Kingdom Trip (FSAC-PMD) <pburke at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  American Wheat beer info / DWC Roasted Malts (R. Keith Frank, DCR&D, 409-238-9880)
  Re: Homebrew on WWW (Jim Grady)
  Spiced ale yeast/hops question (Karl Elvis MacRae)
  drying hops (Bryan L. Gros)
  Wort Chiller Construction, Terry Terfinko ("Guenther  H. Trageser")
  Responses to Celis White clone recipe and Cleaning Oven Top (Dean J Miller)
  Brinkmann Burner and 15 G. kegs (Alan Richer)
  Hop utilization (Bob Jones)
  Yeast pitching-rate puzzle (Ken Willing)

****************************************************************** ** NOTE: There will be no digest administration from August 15 ** through August 26. PLEASE be patient when requesting changes ** or cancellations. ****************************************************************** Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 31 Aug 1994 11:18:15 -0600 From: John Adams <j_adams at hpfcjca.sde.hp.com> Subject: Re: Homebrew on the www The Beer Page http://guraldi.itn.med.umich.edu/Beer/ This is a very good homebrewer's related homepage. It include recipes, GABF results, Homebrew digests, bottle labels, and other beer-related links. The Virtual Pub & Beer Emporium http://lager.geo.brown.edu:8080/virtual-pub/ This is more geared to beer and less to homebrewers. It includes a patrons list, beer tasting guide, beer glasses, and the Reinheitsgebot. Beer & Brewing http://nearnet.gnn.com/wic/cook.05.html This is another homebrewer's homepage. It includes recipes, general information, and cooking with beer, and gardening. Eric's Beer Page http://pekkel.uthscsa.edu/beer.html This contains beer reviews, brewpub listings, recipes, and a schedule of events. Austrian Beer Guide http://www.lib.uchicago.edu/keith/austrian-beer.html A guide to various Austrian beers and restaurant guide. Cat's Meow http://guraldi.itn.med.umich.edu/Beer/cats-meow/top_page.html This is the current version of cat's meow in HTML format. I very handy online version. John Adams Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 1994 10:34:38 -0700 From: Mark Bellefeuille <mcb at mcdpxs.phx.mcd.mot.com> Subject: Re: Advertising on HBD X-Mailer: Siren Mail (Motif 1.2 94/03/14) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-ID: <109_25726_778354477_11 at mcdpxs> Content-type: text/plain "djt2 at po.cwru.edu" says: >> Hey, "Lynne O'Connor" <stpats at bga.com> >> Let's keep the advertising off of HBD. *Very* bad behaviour, that. >> By the way, that is not just a suggestion, that is the stated role of the >> internet, even if you have a .com account. >> dennis Dennis's post could have been sent as direct email. I'd just like to know how a 'Digest' classifies as 'the internet'. Can one receive the hbd as email without using the internet? Don's post had some prices discussed; but, except for the last one they were old prices. He did discuss packaging and gave his opinions on topics that are near and dear to homebrewers. I've ordered from St Pat's. They've taken my money. They don't give me any. mark - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Mark C. Bellefeuille mcb at phx.mcd.mot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 1994 11:25:10 -800 (PDT) From: "A. Sturdivant \"Sturdy\" McKee" <sturdy at itsa.ucsf.EDU> Subject: Seattle Ale Festival Don't know if this message ever made it into the HBD. Don't recall reading it. ANyway, I received no responses. So here goes again. Has anyone been to the Ale Festival in the past? It's not called the "Seattle" Ale Festival, but something like the Great Northwest... It starts on Labor Day and goes through the tenth. Any opinions? Anything not to be missed? Parking tips? I'm travelling up from San Jose (I know you don't like Californians, but I'm not native) and want to make the best use of my time. Please respond to <sturdy at itsa.ucsf.edu>. TIA, Sturdy Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 1994 14:28:47 -0500 (CDT) From: edmondso at athena.msfc.nasa.gov (St. Rich Brewing Co., Huntsville, AL) Subject: Neophyte questions & thanks Thanks to the guidance of a personal homebrew tutor, books by Charlie Papazian and Dave Miller, and the HBD, I'm proud to say that I'll be prying caps off of my first batch this weekend - an all grain Pale Ale. All indications at bottling and during a carbonation check indicate that at a minimum it will be better than I ever thought beer I made would be. So, thanks for this great forum and the confidence it breeds in newbies like myself. Now a couple short questions (I read the hbd.faq, hop.faq, and yeast.faq - very good sources of information - but couldn't find the answer to these two. Perhaps in the upcoming mash.faq?): 1. Could someone who uses a Corona mill e-mail me personally the setting that you use for milling your malt? Based on the aforementioned books and tutor's advice that most homebrew shops will mill your grain, I assumed (bad thing to do) that mine would too. They pointed to the $60 Corona on the shelf. I declined, and spent 3 hours crushing grain by hand. Actually got ok results for a beginner with no mill - about 28 points/lb/gallon. So budgetary constraints forced the corona for now ($35 mail order), but would I like some guidance on it's use. I plan to brew batches 2 and 3 this weekend - an Altbier and a Kolsch, so rapid replies are best. 2. What is TIA at the end of peoples posts? BTW, thanks to weird admin here, replies to the machine that sends this message will never get here. If you are kind enough to reply, please be sure to do it to edmondso at trade-zone.msfc.nasa.gov. Thanks, - -- Rich Edmondson "St. Rich" "Sometimes you're the windshield, Sometimes you're the bug." - Dire Straits Return to table of contents
Date: 31 Aug 94 20:38:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: sfd Sean writes: > When I brew (which is not often enough these days), I usually chuck >in my bittering hops, then add my finishing hops at the end of the >boil. Nice and simple. But lately, I've been perusing recipes that >call for a certain number of IBUs at 15 min., a certain amount at 30 min., >and so forth. Why do you do this? My guess is to control the amount of >bitterness in the beer, and presumably, to drive off less volatiles >during the boil. If that is the case, why not just add bittering hops >later in the boil (which, I think would accomplish both points). What >am I missing here by my "barbaric" hop schedule? Your "barbaric" hop schedule is fine. As hops boil, two things are happening: 1) alpha-acids are being isomerized and 2) volatiles are boiling off. The longer you boil, the larger the percentage of AA's will get isomerized and the larger the percentage of AA's that will stay in solution when you cool (this is boil utilization). Also, the longer you boil, the more volatiles you boil off. Anything longer than about 5 or 10 minutes and most of the hop aroma will boil off. Anything longer than about 15 or 20 minutes and most of the hop flavor will boil off. So, you see, your bittering hops (the ones you plunk in with 90 or 60 or even 30 minutes to go contribute mostly bitterness. Flavor hops that you add with 15 or 20 minutes to go will add quite a bit less bitterness, but some of their flavor will remain. Finishing hops, added with only 5 or 10 minutes to go will add virtually no bitterness but will add a little hop flavor and quite a bit of hop aroma. Last night I was reading an article entitled "An Investigation of the Relationships Between Hopping Rate, Time of Boil, and Individual Alpha- cid Utilization" by A.J.Irwin, et. al. from Vol. 43, No. 3 of the ASBC Journal, in preparation for an upcoming book review I'm writing. In this article, the authors were trying, among other things, to minimize the cost of adding bitterness to beer. As I've explained above, the less you boil the less bitterness you are going to get from the hops, but also the more money you will spend on heat. You could get a similar amount of bitterness from a 30 minute boil with, say 2 ounces of hops, as you get with a 60 minute boil with, about 1 ounce of the same hops, but with less energy cost. Perhaps the researchers were considering only the very low hop rates of typical industrial lagers, where the effect of the added hop flavor might be less, but in the case of our more highly hopped styles it could be problematic. Consider the case where you would use about four times the hops of a 60 minute boil, but only boiled 15 minutes. In this case you would be making a beer with an incredible amount of hop flavor even though the actual IBUs would be the same as if the beer was made with a 60 minute boil and a "normal" amount of hops. So, the answer to your question is that yes, you could get the same amount of bitterness from a shorter boil, but the cost of hops would be higher, you still should boil 60 minutes for good hot break (which incidentally is made better by the addition of hops -- so your hot break might be worse) and the amount of hop flavor could be excessive for the style. ******* Spencer writes, quoting from the Malt Advocate: >author (a BJCP certified judge & homebrewer) claimed that force >carbonating produced the "nasty" bitterness that one finds, e.g., in >American mega-swill. As opposed to hops, which give a "nice" >bitterness. Perhaps you were a bit too subtile for some... I think Spencer meant to point out that this *bull* and that the method of carbonation is NOT going to affect the bitterness. ******** Mark wrote: >I have come to the conclusion that these differences in head retention >and carbonation quality are due simply to the amount of time the beer >is allowed to sit with carbonation before dispensing. If you give >your beer at least one week to sit with pressure on the keg I think >that you will find you get the same great head retention as with >natural conditioning. I agree that time is a big factor. My experience is that it does take some time to get that fine-bubbled carbonation, but then the small-protein content of the beer is going to determine if the head lasts or doesn't. In other words, a thin, overcarbonated beer might have a nice head at pouring, but the head would collapse shortly thereafter and the beer would taste acidic and prickly, as opposed to a properly carbonated beer with a good level of small-proteins which would have a long-lasting head and a lot smoother palate. and: >However, I must note that at the AHA conference I tasted a porter that >was force carbonated using a stainless carbonating stone (huge). It That wasn't just Porter, that was Great Lakes Brewing Company's Edmund Fitzgerald Porter! But I agree, it had a nice, creamy head and very fine bubbles, all in about 30 seconds. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: 31 Aug 94 14:05:17 EDT From: Don Rudolph <76076.612 at compuserve.com> Subject: Peat Smoked Malt Dear Smoked Malt Freaks: Domenick may beat me to the punch, but Liberty Malt Supply, the famous(?) suppliers of Marris Otter Pale Ale Malt, carry a peat smoked malt. I've tasted it (not brewed with it, >:( yuk), a very noticable but not overwhelming smokey taste. Made me yearn for some Glenfiddich (sp). Phone: (206) 622-1880 Don Rudolph Seattle, WA 76076.612 at CompuServe.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 1994 08:06:53 -0400 From: Tom Riddle <tom at Glue.umd.edu> Subject: How to prepare polyclar / philchill fittings In my latest batch I forgot the Irish Moss and decided to try some polyclar in the secondary. The polyclar came with no instructions and my literature search (Miller, Fix, Papazian) also came up empty. So the question is, how does one prepare the stuff ? I thought of boiling it in some water to sanitize, but wound up pitching it dry. Does anyone know the proper usage ? Also, I noticed in the latest issue of Brewing Techniques an ad for Philchill Fittings - basically a kit for making a counterflow chiller. The ad is for wholesalers only. Does anyone know of a retailer who has these ? thanks, tom - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Tom Riddle email: tom at eng.umd.edu CALCE Electronics Packaging Research Center voice: 301-405-8023 University of Maryland, College Park, MD 20742 fax: 301-314-9269 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 07:21:32 -0500 (CDT) From: John Hartman <jhartman at VNET.IBM.COM> Subject: Re: Wort Chiller Construction Excerpts from mail: 1-Sep-94 Homebrew Digest #1515 (Sept.. Request No Articles at hpfc (45723) > I accepted the fact that I can't fix the > kink, but was wondering if anyone had a way to coil tubing that was safe. > I guess I will write this one off as education. Way back when in 7th grade science class, I constructed a solar water heater that used 3/8" copper tubing. My father had a hand held tube bender, probably something a plumber would commonly have. It was able to make something like a 3" radius 90 degree turn, more than tight enough for a chiller. I would imagine you could find one at a plumbing supply store that would fit 5/8". Maybe warming the tubing just a little prior to bending would also help. You could also try filling one/both of the tubes with sand or something, but that could be tough to clean out afterwards. In the metal fabrication shop I worked in one summer we commonly filled small diameter tubing with some alloy with a very low melting pt, bent the tubes, then heated them in boiling water to drain the alloy. Don't know what it was, but it's probably not practical for home use anyway. -jh John Hartman AFS: jhartman+ Dept 43K/006-2 C101 VM: jhartman at rchland (if you must :) Dev/2000 Perfomance Team internet: jhartman at vnet.ibm.com IBM Rochester, MN (507)253-8037 tl. 553-8037 WWW: http://www.rchland.ibm.com/~jhartman/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 09:43:48 -0400 From: (John Lenz) jel3 at cornell.edu Subject: bad citizens Sorry to waste space with a complaint, but does anyone else think that something should be done about OAKQM3 at oakqm3.sps.mot.com and Mailer.MC1 at hesdmail.mmm.com ? The former periodically submits a resend request with a header from a previous digest, which gives our local redistribution node fits. The latter sends annoying messages to inform us that someone's disk is full. Seems to me that a policy of quietly dropping subscribers who cause such problems after three offenses would be in order. Most recently, both these bad apples affected #1514. On a more beer related note, to the fellow who related his attempt at N.A. beer in 1514 (didn't know about him till after I retrieved 1514 from Stanford), two thoughts. If simple empiricism suits your style, why don't you just drink a six-pack and see if anything happens? Or, you could contact Jack, or Jean Hunter. When Jack was first working out his low-alcohol procedures, Jean did some lab tests on some of his brew. Op uw gezondheid, John "Let's clean house" Lenz Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 09:26:20 -0400 (EDT) From: greggt at infi.net (Gregg Tennefoss) Subject: Temp controller I was just reading the new radio shack catelog and came across a gadget in the components section ( page 122 ) that sounded interesting. The device is a thermometer/controller with remote bulb and quote "Use as is for thermometer or add circuits to control buzzer, LED, fan or heater. Hi/Lo activation temps, -40 to +122 F and -40 to +50 C ranges, !/2" Lcd display Draws onlt 10 micro amps. With probe, cord, data. 2 11/16 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/8". Requires "AA" battery. CMC 277-123 .... 19.99" I have not seen this and I think CMC means special order but has possibilities. I do not own Tandy Blah Blah Blah .............. cheers Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 94 10:26:26 EDT From: Bill Sutton <wrs at hpuerca.atl.hp.com> Subject: IBU reference I am trying to find a way to reference IBUs to something other than particular beers. As a beginner in identifying flavors, I want to get the bitterness as standalone as possible, without having it hidden by additional maltiness or other differences. A while back there was a wonderful post about using various extracts and a reference beer for learning about off flavors/odors. Would it be possible to use hop extract and a reference beer to come up with IBU references that are "brewer neutral"? Feel free to email, I'll summarize responses. - -- Bill Sutton ++ So many songs, (wrs at hpuerca.atl.hp.com) ++ So little beer. HP pays me to talk about datacomm. Everything else I do on my own. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 94 10:30:26 EDT From: Bill Sutton <wrs at hpuerca.atl.hp.com> Subject: SG calculations I brewed a new extract based pale ale last night and, while it seems to be well within style, it didn't match my calculations at all. I used 4 lbs of Alexander's Pale Malt Extract Syrup, 2.9 lbs. of Alexander's Pale Extract Kicker, and 8 oz. 40L crystal malt for the brew. Brew procedure was: Boil 2.5 gallons H2O, add salts, remove from heat and cool to 150 F. Add Extract Syrup, add Crystal Malt (in grain bag). Steep 15 min. Bring wort back to boil. Remove Crystal Malt & "squeeze sparge". Due to bad decisions ("hmm -- I'll bet loose hop pellets will be utilized more efficiently than if they were in my hop bag..."), my siphon was really horrible and I ended up with only 2 gallons. After topping this off to 5 gallons, I ended up with an SG of 1.043 (corrected to 60 F). Unfortunately, I didn't measure the SG of the partial boil volume (sorry - it was midnight and I wasn't clinking thearly...) Based on charts and data in Mosher's _Brewer's Companion_, my estimate for the OG was 6.9 lb * 8 pts/lb in 5 gallons = 55.2 for the malt extract, .5 lb * 7 pts/lb in 5 gallons = 3.5 for the crystal = 58.7 (1.0587). I have never gotten this high before, so my expectation was in the 1.050 range. I'm not unhappy with the result, as an OG of 1.043 will work just fine. I'm more concerned with trying to understand why my calculations didn't jive with my results. I am leaning toward the theory that Alexander's is more like 6 pts/lb in 5 gallons, not 8. This makes the SG from malt syrup 41.4, and when adding the 3.5 for the crystal leaves 44.9, which is only about 10% off and makes sense to me as loss from the leftover gunk in the brewpot. Is this a good assumption? Is there a better reference on adjusting SG based on ingredients (TNCJOHB gives a brief treatment but it doesn't seem to be very accurate)? Specifically, I am looking for information on the relationship between amount of ingredients and SG (linear? Exponential? from the literature at hand it seems to be linear, but I also remember reading that it isn't quite ...), a formula that gives SG for N gallons given a constant provided for the ingredient (DME, syrup, crystal, etc), and a table of these constants. Mosher and Papazian have tables, though Charlie's is a little sparse and Randy's seems to be too specific (no ranges). Mosher doesn't treat dilution of an existing SG at all, and I'm having problems working with Charlie's (especially since he claims in TNCJOHB that a 50% dilution is a factor of 2.5?) I can't find a good treatment in Miller or Line. I'm interested in this because I want to understand the function of non-mashed ingredients in adding SG points after I go to all grain. I also want to predict my OG better so my hops utilization calculations can have a prayer of being accurate. Feel free to email me, I will summarize responses. - -- Bill Sutton ++ So many songs, (wrs at hpuerca.atl.hp.com) ++ So little beer. HP pays me to talk about datacomm. Everything else I do on my own. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 94 10:41:36 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: pepper beer I've seen several references to "pepper beer" in the last week or so, but can't find a receipe. Can someone supply? Or direct me to the right archive. All-grain preferred, but I can convert an extract receipe. TIA Ron Dwelle (dweller at gvsu.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 94 11:06:00 EST From: "Dulisse, Brian" <BBD4 at CIPCOD1.EM.CDC.GOV> Subject: wheat beer follies continuing my mission of trying to make a decent wheat beer, i made two changes to my usual (ok, three batches so far) process (which consists of 6# or so of 50/50 wheat/barley extract and an ounce of hallertau): i steeped a pound of wheat at 180 f for 30 minutes, and rinsed with a gallon of 175 f (or so) afterwards, and i made up a reasonably full sized starter (750 ml) for the 3068 yeast (in the past i have simply dumped the contents of the pack after it has swelled). slightly over 5 gallons went into my 6 gallon carboy. since i bought the carboys (2 batches ago) i've used a blowoff tube, but never had any goop blow off. this time, i forgot to stick the blowoff tube in a bleach solution, so i figured it won't matter, i'll just use an airlock (i happened to have one which had been sitting in a bleach solution). i left the carboy in the kitchen, and didn't look at it before i went to work the next morning (late, you know). when i got back last evening (about 18 hours after pitching) i found the airlock about 10 feet from the carboy, and some pretty intense foam crust around the carboy. i made an emergency strength bleach solution and soaked the blowoff tube about 5 minutes, hoping for shock decontamination, then stuck the tube into a carboy, with the other end in a quart jar of water. immediately, i got bubbles out of the blowoff at slightly more than one per second. this morning when i checked, the blowoff tube was filled with yucky stuff, as was the water in the jar. when i went to bed last night (6 hours after inserting the blowoff tube) there was nothing visible in the tube and the water was clear. i don't recall how fast it was generating bubbles this morning. should i be worried about the cloudy goop generated overnight, or is this a normal consequence of faster fermentation resulting from pitching a larger quantity of yeast? by the way, it smells great. a second question: how long do y'all let your (german-style) wheat condition before putting it in the fridge? once in the fridge, how long does it take for the beer to round out? my last batch sat at room temperature for a week and a half to two weeks, then went into the fridge; after three weeks in the fridge the flavor has improved significantly. how does this compare with your experiences? i'd hate to drink the last batch up now if it will improve further :^). thanks, bd bb4 at cipcod1.em.cdc.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 08:39:27 -0700 From: pascal at netcom.com (Richard A Childers) Subject: Cavebrew ? Hey, this opens up a whole new branch of brewing ... It would not be hard to implement such an operation. One would only need to _lower_ equipment and supplies ... naturally lager yeasts would be required, given the ideal lagering temperatures available underground. ( Hell, I'll bet there were operations during the Prohibition that took advantage of this fact. Gives "underground operation" a whole new mean- -ing ... :-) You'd never need to worry about your brew getting contaminated by light. The bacteria count underground might be lower, and lack of air currents might facilitate operations, also. With a small underground stream at hand, you'd have no problem getting water, and, in fact, would have a ready heatsink with which to chill your wort, as well. Best of all, you'll never destroy your kitchen stove, floor, counters and cupboards again with boilovers. Be careful climbing back up, though ... (-: - -- richard Law : The science of assigning responsibility. Politics : The art of _distributing_ responsibility. richard childers san francisco, california pascal at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 09:08:28 -0700 From: pascal at netcom.com (Richard A Childers) Subject: Elderberry Wine ... Elderberry wine or The Great Brewing Matrix "Date: Tue, 30 Aug 94 08:31:55 -0600 From: grow at sumatra.mcae.stortek.com (Roger Grow) Subject: Elderberry Wine Request "I am searching for an elderberry wine recipe. Either a straight wine or a melomel recipe would be great." If you have recipes for wine, or melomel, why not try them - with your elderberries substituted for a similar fruit ? Generally, I use about 2.5 - 3.0 pounds of honey, and an equal amount of pitted-frozen-thawed-mashed-in-bag-dumped-in-hot-wort fruit, per each gallon of water. This is just a "rule of thumb", which I playfully ignore with great consistency. (-: You should, also. If the flavor of elderberry is a subtle thing, like strawberries tend to be, then increase the amount of fruit. Choose your yeast according to the characteristics you'd like : flat: use white wine yeast bubbly: use champagne yeast Generally, I see brewing as a finite but unbounded ( growing ) spectrum : f e r m e n t a b l e s & a d j u n c t s . . . +-------------------------------------------------------- - - - - y | e | B E E R S a | s | - - - - - - - - t | s | W I N E S | & | - - - - - - - - | b | C H A M P A G N E S a | c | - - - - - - - - t | e | naturally occurring yeasts yet to be categorized ... r | i | - - - - - - - - a | . | ... etc ... . . | Just think of it as a Really Big Spreadsheet ... and experiment by combining the rows and columns that please you, or intrigue you, the most. If you absolutely *have* to have something that's edible, consider doing a series of slightly different preparations over a few weeks. This will also increase the possibility, in case of infection(s), that some of the brews will be drinkable, still ( which will not be the case if they are all done at the same time ). And, remember, even the bad batches can be given away to friends as bottles of exotic marinade ... (-: - -- richard Law : The science of assigning responsibility. Politics : The art of _distributing_ responsibility. richard childers san francisco, california pascal at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 94 09:44:24 MDT From: exabyte!smtplink!guym at uunet.uu.net Subject: Propane cooker results As supported by the posted responses to my question regarding the best cooker for a half-barrel keg, the overwhelming choice appears to be Metal Fusion's Cajun Cooker. I just called them and ordered a catalog. There were also several interesting modifications for other cookers, all of which would probably work, but I've decided to go with the Metal Fusion cooker. If anyone is interested in the suggested solutions I got for other cookers, email and I'll send them to you. Thanks to all who responded. -- Guy McConnell Exabyte Corporation guym at exabyte.com "Maybe we'll leave come springtime. Meanwhile, have another beer." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 94 12:43:42 EDT From: "Peter J. Burke" (FSAC-PMD) <pburke at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: United Kingdom Trip Greetings, In a previous posting, I asked for help in brew-pub info for Vienna and Budapest. Thanks to all who responded, but my trip's destination has been changed to the United Kingdom ! I will be in NOttingham, Ridgedale (North of Newcastle), London, and Stevenage. Any help out there on the HBD for pub info ? The trip is soon (11-20 Sept), so any help would be appreciated ! Thanks in advance, send information to: Pete Burke pburke at pica.army.mil Cheers! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 12:16:37 -0500 From: keithfrank at dow.com (R. Keith Frank, DCR&D, 409-238-9880) Subject: American Wheat beer info / DWC Roasted Malts I want to brew an American style wheat beer in the next week or two and would like suggestions, recipes, tips from the HBD. I would prefer extract or partial mash for the first attempt and if anyone has recommendations on brands of wheat extract this would be most helpful. I do single temp infusion all grain typically but could handle step infusion if the results are worth the extra time. No decoctions, please. One of my main concerns is overdosing the hops. David Draper - could you send me a summary from your related request on the Sept. 1 HBD? The Malt Shop in Wisconsin told me that DWC roasted malts are de-bitterized and would have a cleaner flavor compared to domestic ones. Anyone know anything about this? Is this significant? TIA, Bruce DeBolt c/o keithfrank at dow.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 94 13:34:17 EDT From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: Re: Homebrew on WWW I tried sending this directly but Davin needs to buy some more disk space. Anyhow, others may be interested: Here are 2 www Beer pages. I frequent "The Beer Page" the most. The Beer Page: http://guraldi.itn.med.umich.edu/Beer/ The Virtual Pub & Beer Emporium: http://lager.geo.brown.edu:8080/virtual-pub/ Hoppy CyberSurfing! - -- Jim Grady | "Any idiot can face a crisis - it's this day-to-day grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com | living that wears you out." | Anton Chekhov Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 94 10:39:09 PDT From: Karl Elvis MacRae <batman at cisco.com> Subject: Spiced ale yeast/hops question Got little or no help on this from the newsgroup, so maybe I can get a little more input here. I'm looking for guidance from those with more personal knowledge about yeast and hops varieties. - ------------- I'm planning to brew something akin to Papazian's 'Holiday Cheer', with perhaps a minor change or two. My questions involve yeast and hops. I've only used Cascade and NB hops (For pale/amber and for a stout), and wyeast 1056 (American) and 1084 (irish) yeasts. With the following recipe, would there be any particular yeast or hop varieties that would be particularly good to use? Or should I just go with the basic 1056 and follow Charlie's hop guide (Cascade for bittering, Saaz for aroma)? Thanks..... 7lbs amber extract 1 lb light honey 1 lb 80l crystal 1/2 lb chocolate malt 1 oz fresh ginger 6" cinnamon stick 1 tsp whole cloves (Maybe some nutmeg) grated rind of four oranges -Karl -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Karl Elvis MacRae Software Engineer Cisco Systems, Menlo Park, CA, USA batman at cisco.com 415-688-8231 DoD#1999 1993 Vulcan Eighty-Eight -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 10:43:58 -0700 From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros) Subject: drying hops Has anyone every dried their homegrown hops in a dehydrator? Any hints? What temperature and for how long? It's almost that time for my Saaz. Thanks. - Bryan bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 01 Sep 94 14:58:55 EDT From: "Guenther H. Trageser" <73672.613 at compuserve.com> Subject: Wort Chiller Construction, Terry Terfinko There is a very simple trick to preventing kinks while bending metal tubes. Fill them tightly with dry sand. You may only need to do this with your inner tube, but for a perfect bend you should try and fill both tubes. its bound to work a treat. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 15:39:41 From: djmiller at tasc.com (Dean J Miller) Subject: Responses to Celis White clone recipe and Cleaning Oven Top Thanks for everyone who responded to my request for a Celis White clone recipe and how to clean my stainless steel sink.. I have summarized the responses here I have received the following recipes from my request for a clone of Celis White: >From the homebrew archives I have pulled the following: - ---------------------------- #1 ---------------------------- From: tony.storz at cld9.com (Tony Storz) Subject: Celis White Clone Recipe [HBD #1310] Recently there was a request for a Celis White Clone recipe. Here is a recipe that I came up with and uploaded to Compuserve in early November. Thanks to Steve Daniel and Steve Moore from the Home Brew University BBS (713-923-6418) and my electronic friends on Compuserve who helped steer me in the right direction by giving me a starting point. Pugsley's Pseudo Celis White #5 malt: 4.5 lbs. 6 row (or 2 row) specialty: 4.0 lbs. Unmalted Wheat (Bulgar from Health Food Store) 4 grams dried orange peel 4 grams crushed corriander seeds 1 tsp. Alpha-Amalase enzyme lactic acid hops: 1 oz. Hallertauer yeast: 1 pack Wyeast #3056 Bavarian Wheat optional: 1 tsp. gypsum OG 1.041 FG 1.011 Bring 2 gallons water to boil. Add unmalted wheat and hold at 185-195 degrees for 20 minutes. Add cold water and 6 row malt to bring down to 130 degrees. Add 1 tsp. amalase and gypsum (pH 5.3). Allow protein rest for 25 minutes. Raise temperature to 150 degrees and hold 20 minutes. Complete conversion by raising temperature to 158 degrees and holding for 20 minutes. Mashout at 168 degrees for 5 minutes. Acidify sparge water to pH 5.7 with lactic acid. Sparge with 4-5 gallons of 170-180 degree water. Boil wort for 90 minutes. Add hops and crushed spices 15 minutes before end of boil. Cool wort and pitch yeast. While this will not fool everyone into thinking that this is the real Celis White, I was very happy with the outcome. The spices are "up front" without being overpowering. However, some people like a wallop from the spices and you will need to experiment with the spice amounts. After a couple months the spices have faded a bit, so next time I will double the spices and probably try Wyeast White beer yeast. This recipe should give you a good starting point with which to experiment. If anyone else has a recipe for a Celis White clone, or have any comments or questions on my recipe, please feel free to E-mail me or post. - ---------------------------- #2 ---------------------------- The Elusive Wit 5# 2-row 5# wheat malt 1 oz Hallertau, 3.2% AAU, 60 minues .5 oz Hallertau, 3.2% AAU, 30 minutes 1 oz Saaz, 4.0 %AAU, 20 minutes 1 quart Brewer's Resource Belgian Wit ale yeast starter 3/4 cup corn sugar for priming 1/2 tsp orange peel, added to secondary 1 tsp crushed coriander, added to secondary OG = 1.048 FG = 1.016 As you can see, this recipe calls for 50 % wheat malt. I've also seen recipes which call for 45% un-malted wheat. The wheat or wheat malt are what give's the beer it's milky appearance or "uncorrected chill haze." The coriander and the orange peel make for a very interesting flavor profile. There's also a third spice, but PC is not willing to divulge it. The above recipe did very well in the Minnesota Brewfest (300 entrees). It won first place in the Belgian category (30 entrees), (Judged by John Isenhauer) and then went on to take Best of Show (Judged by Michael Jackson, Andy Leith and Isenhauer). ============================ From: sohaskey <sohaskey at mactel.uthscsa.edu> Subject: Celis White Here is the recipe from a kit that Austin Homebrew sells. 3 # What dried malt extract 2 # Light dried malt extract 0.5 oz Coriander 2 oz Saaz Hops AA 3.9% 0.3 oz Curacao orange peel Windsor Ale yeast The extract and hops were added in the usual way. The coriander should be crushed. (Well crushed if you like the taste. ) The orange peels should be added for the last 10 minutes of the boil. The problem with this recipe is it doesn't take into account the lactic acid sourness of White. I guess some lactic acid could be added or a lactobacillus. I have never done this although I am considering it. Well, I have not tried this recipe. (But I did live a half mile from the Celis Brewery) As I said this is what Austin sells. You might want to compare it to other recipes you have gotten and see what they have in common. ========================== For the cleaning of Stainless Steel: ========================= From: JohnNewYrk at aol.com I too get those dreaded black stains every time I brew. My better half can't stand it (probably because she is usually the one who finally gets rid of them). The solution we/she have/has come up with is this: before you go to bed soak the stains in bleach; in the morning, scrub. You'll find that it requires a lot less scrubbing this way. ============================== From: nigelt at delm.tas.gov.au (Nigel Townsend) Try liquid/jelly paint stripper. I once cleaned an oven in a caravan that had been squatted in and then used by children as a wendy house. The oven and top had been regularly used without cleaning for several years, and then sat uncleaned for about five years. After several attacks of painstripper,and the use of a high pressure hose, it changed colour. As it was a gas cooker, I also had to drill out the holes in the gas rings because the paintstripper softened the gunk over them, but couldnt work its way all the way through. It looked and worked fine afterwards. The cooker was an old heavy duty enamel finish. I suggest that you first try the method on a small spot that isnt too obvious. ================================== From: Mike Schrempp <73764.306 at compuserve.com> We use baking soda (the yellow Arm & Hammer box) as scouring powder for our SS sink. It works great. It might work on your stove top. ==================================== From: Mark Gryska <mark at vicorp.com> I've used something called "Bar Keepers Friend" which works pretty good. You could also try using something nasty like lye (wears gloves, eye protection, apron, plenty of ventilation...) Lye (sodium hydroxide) will disolve all kinds of organic material. This includes skin! I think Bar Keepers Friend should work, I found it at my local hardware store. Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply. dean Dean Miller djmiller at tasc.com I'd rather be brewing... Return to table of contents
Date: 1 Sep 94 15:50:01 ES From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS at crd.lotus.com> Subject: Brinkmann Burner and 15 G. kegs I have this combination (gift from the wife for my birthday...), and there's an easy fix to the problem. What I did was to obtain a square of expanded metal mesh a bit larger than the bottom of the keg, and place it on top of the Brinkmann burner. i supports the keg edges nicely, and I have no worries about using it this way at all. Junkyards are a wondereful place to get this stuff cheaply. Al Richer - aricher at crd.lotus.com P.S.: it's nice to see my old FAQ is still going strong. I'm thinking of doing Rev. 2, if Dion doesn't have the time to finish his. Any data you'd like to see me add, mail it to me, and I'll take a shot at cranking out rev. 2 in a few weeks. ajr Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 01 Sep 1994 13:08:17 +0900 From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) Subject: Hop utilization I recently spoke with Micah Millspaw (the brewer at Murphys Creek Brewery) and he has added forced kettle ventilation to his kettle primarily so they can increase the level that they fill the kettle to. The forced ventilation reduces or eliminates any boil overs. This way they can fill the kettle right up to the top. By doing this he has discovered that his hop utilization has increase to 40%! These are varified numbers via analysis. He would like to hear from anyone out there that has any similar experience or could explain this effect. Sounds like some interesting research here could be done. He says his boil temperature is 201 deg f. This is due to the altitude of the brewery and the lower pressure induced by the fans suction. Micah's number at the brewery is (209)736-BREW I would think this topic would make for some interesting dialog here as well. I would like to hear both Mark G. and Glen T. comments. Bob Jones bjones at novax.llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Sep 1994 09:22:23 +1000 (EST) From: Ken Willing <Ken.Willing at mq.edu.au> Subject: Yeast pitching-rate puzzle Wishing to accentuate maltiness and limit yeasty flavors, I have always followed the practice of pitching a sizeable starter (1 - 2 quarts of liquid in active fermentation) for a 5-gallon batch. But now (in the Zymurgy 1989 special issue on yeast) I come across what looks very much like advice to actually UNDERPITCH, in order to achieve this purpose. This of course flies in the face of the common wisdom on this subject... So I'd be very grateful if someone could set me straight on why I'm wrong to conclude from the Zymurgy article that underpitching is a good idea. I'll now quote the passage I'm referring to: [Extract from: Yeast Biology and Beer Fermentation, by Jean-Xavier Guinard, Mary Miranda and Michael J. Lewis, Ph.D. _Zymurgy_, 12, 4 (1989).] Consistency of beer flavor in the fermentation stage depends on the kinds and amounts of organic molecules excreted by the yeast; that is, materials other than alcohol and CO2. Collectively these flavor compounds often are secondary metabolites formed in small quantities at different points in the main fermentation. However incidental they may be to the yeast, they are crucially important to beer flavor. They account for only a small proportion of the total sugars fermented, but they comprise many different kinds of compounds in very low concentrations, many with very low detection thresholds (i.e., easily tasted at low concentration). These secondary metabolites originate in many different metabolic sequences in various parts of the cell. They have different functions and respond in different ways to the environment imposed by the fermentation conditions. [...] Some 90 percent of fermented wort sugar is transformed to alcohol and CO2; >> the remaining 10 percent is divided about equally between yeast growth and >> production of flavor compounds. Generally speaking, anything that promotes >> yeast growth relative to fermentation will tend to reduce the amount of >> flavor compounds produced by directing the carbon of the fermented sugar >> into yeast mass. Such things as highly aerated wort, low yeast inoculum, >> ideal growth temperature, very nitrogenous wort, for example, would have >> this moderating effect. Conversely, suppressing yeast growth relative to >> fermentation will tend to have the opposite effect; e.g., very high or low >> temperatures, high yeast pitching rate, high gravity wort and unaerated >> worts will tend to promote production of yeast flavor compounds. Thus fermentation may be viewed as a pipe through which carbon from sugar flows on its way to alcohol and CO2; the pipe has small holes in it through which some carbon can escape as flavor compounds. The pressure in the pipe, how full it is and the length of time it is in use all help determine the amount of leakage of flavor compounds into the beer. Fermentation bouquet arises from a host of volatile compounds among which higher alcohols and esters feature prominently [etc.]... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Thanks for any help. Ken Willing <kwilling at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au> Sydney 2109, Australia Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1517, 09/03/94