HOMEBREW Digest #1531 Tue 20 September 1994

Digest #1530 Digest #1532

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  INBOX Message (See Below) (Mailer.MC1)
  Re: Challenger hops? (Tel +44 784 443167)
  Saaz cone size (Chuck E. Mryglot)
  demer-what? (RONALD DWELLE)
  Competition Announcement ("Robert C. Santore")
  Re: Honey vs. Dextrin Malt (bickham)
  Celis ("Anderso_A")
  Brewing with Winter Rye (Jim Ancona)
  Nuking starters in the uwave (Bob Jones)
  safely heating wort for a starter (eurquhar)
  HopTech Fruit extracts (MARK CASTLEMAN)
  beer alergy (Turner)
  A clarification on HSA (Jim Busch)
  ErlenMeyers / Dry Hops / Blowoffs / Outside wort Worries (COYOTE)
  Help with FTP Mail of HBD files (elpeters)
  Moving it outside... (Kaesm)
  Pyrex, Kimax, Breakage (Jim Liddil)
  what is Racking ? (MFOR8178)
  Mashing Wheat (Wolfe)
  dextrin,honey bubbles (/R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/)
  Cracked flask summary (Bart Thielges)
  Borosilicate glassware (Cree-ee-py Boy)
  pub names (long) (cush)
  FREE (PLASTIC) CARBOYS (Randy Erickson)
  Propane&Sanitation/NA Beer and nasties/Getting Red color ("William F. Cook")
  Call for Help from the Pacific Northwest (Richard A Childers)
  Info/Recipe Request (t.duchesneau)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 19 Sep 94 02:30:23 U From: Mailer.MC1 at hesdmail.mmm.com Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) InBox Message Type: Error InBox Message Subject: Undeliverable message InBox Message Text Follows: Message not delivered to 'MC2' (Disk full) - ------------------------- Original Message Follows ------------------------- Message too large (greater than 30000 bytes). See enclosure! - ------------------------- RFC822 Header Follows ------------------------- Received: by hesdmail with SMTP/TCP;19 Sep 94 02:28:27 U Received: from pigseye.mmm.com by mmm ( 3M/SERC - 4.1/BDR-1.0) idAA20799; Mon, 19 Sep 94 02:40:04 CDT Errors-To: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Received: by pigseye.mmm.com (4.1/SMI-4.1) id AA16658; Mon, 19 Sep 94 02:34:24 CDT Errors-To: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Errors-To: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Received: from hpfcrdg.fc.hp.com by hpfcla.fc.hp.com with SMTP ( 3.20) id AA23101; Mon, 19 Sep 94 01:34:12 -0600 Received: by hpfcmi.fc.hp.com ( 3.22) id AA08641; Mon, 19 Sep 1994 01:00:56 -0600 Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 01:00:56 -0600 Message-Id: <9409190700.AA08641 at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com> To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com From: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Request Address Only - No Articles) Reply-To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Posting Address Only - No Requests) Errors-To: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Precedence: bulk Subject: Homebrew Digest #1530 (September 19, 1994) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 10:07:07 +0000 From: Brian Gowland <B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk> (Tel +44 784 443167) Subject: Re: Challenger hops? In HBD 1530, Al Gaspar <gaspar at STL-17SIMA.ARMY.MIL> writes: > The latest catalog from William's Brewing lists an English hops called > Challenger. I can't tell you very much other than what I found in "Home Brewing - The CAMRA Guide" by Graham Wheeler. The book says that it is a Wye College hop which is high in essential oils and considered a general pupose hop. It has good aroma and can be used for copper hopping, late hopping or dry hopping and is Britain's second-most popular hop. Seeded and un-seeded versions can be obtained with alpha acid contents of 7.7% and 9.3%. Cheers, Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 94 08:14:13 EDT From: cem at cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot) Subject: Saaz cone size Are mature Saaz hop cones smaller than other hop varieties? I grow Mt. Hood and Centennial. Both have a good size cone when mature...1 - 1 1/2 inch. I put in a Saaz root this year and got a small harvest... 4 oz before drying. But I noticed that the cones never seemed to get larger that 3/4 inch. They seemed to be ready for picking so I don't think they were still growing. Is this the proper size.... or might it be because they are from a new bine. chuckm Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 94 08:27:39 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: demer-what? My father-in-law was in England on business and got invited to a home of a homebrewer for supper and had the best beer he'd ever had in his life (he said). He told the host his son-in-law was a brewer, and the host wrote down the receipe to give to me. The recipe looks like a pretty normal light ale, but it has one ingredient I don't know--"demerara." (not too confident about the spelling). The receipe calls for one pound of it. Charlie P doesn't use the word and my dictionary says it's a river in Guyana. ? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 08:48:55 -0400 (EDT) From: "Robert C. Santore" <rsantore at mailbox.syr.edu> Subject: Competition Announcement COMPETITION ANNOUNCEMENT SALT CITY BREW CLUB NOVEMBER 12, 1994 The Salt City Brew Club is holding their second annual AHA sanctioned open competition on November 12, 1994, at Syracuse Suds Factory, Syracuse NY. Doors open at 11:00 AM for setup. Lunch will be provided for judges and stewards. Entries can be submitted in any AHA style except for Sake and Cider. Entries must be brewed in a non-commercial setting. Entries from a brew on premises are not allowed. All entries must be categorized in an appropriate AHA style. A total of 10 categories will be judged. Categories with few entries will be combined. Awards for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place in each category plus best of show will be given. Additional prizes will be awarded from commercial sponsors. We hope to have sponsors for all categories by the time of the competition. All awards will be given. Each entry must consist of three plain green or brown bottles, 10 to 14 oz. Each entry must be accompanied by a competition entry form and proper payment. Entries must be identified with a competition label secured with a rubber band. Entries should not have raised glass or silk screened marks. Marks on bottle caps should be blackened out. The fee for entries is $5 for one, $9 for two, and $12 for three. Additional entries can be submitted for $2 each. Entries may be dropped off at Hellers Homebrew (Syracuse, NY), E.J. Wren Homebrewer (Liverpool, NY), or Summer Meadow Herb Shop (Ithaca, NY). Entries can also be shipped to E.J. Wren Homebrewer, 209 Oswego St., Liverpool, NY 13088 (phone 315-457- 2282). Entries may be dropped off between October 15 and November 5. Judges at any level that are interested in joining us are welcome to contact Bob Santore for more information. For more information and competition forms, contact: Peter Garofalo, Competition Organizer (315) 428-0952 (evenings), (315) 432-2432 (days) Kieran O'Connor, Competition Registrar koconnor at mailbox.syr.edu Bob Santore, Judge Director rsantore at mailbox.syr.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 08:51:29 -0400 (EDT) From: bickham at msc.cornell.edu Subject: Re: Honey vs. Dextrin Malt From: Rmarsh747 at aol.com Subject: Dextrin Malt vs. Honey > I am working up a holiday beer recipe, my first, and am wondering if I am > wasting some time and money. > I plan to put 1/2 lb. of honey in the 5 gal. batch. I had planned on > putting 8 oz. of Dextrin Malt in as well, but after reading the description > of it, I am not so sure. Will I be getting the same effect using the honey, > rather than the dextose? Also, will it be overkill if I use both? It's a common misconception among homebrewers that honey will add lots of body to a brew. Actually, the honey is almost completely fermentable, which is why most meads finish with gravities below 1.000. Honey actually tends to lighten the body and dry out the finish, Sam Adams Honey Porter being a good example. The different varieties give different esters as well, and these would be nice in an X-mas beer. So my recommendation is to add both: dextrin malt for body and sweetness, honey for aroma and a boost to the alcohol content. > As a side note, how much dried orange peel should someone use for a five > gallon batch? I am new to these "special" ingrediants, such as peel and > spices. For my belgian whites, I add about an ounce for the last 15 minutes of the boil. You can also dry "spice" by soaking the peels and any other spices in vodka for a couple of days and then adding the mixture to the secondary. The alcohol does a nice job extracting volatiles from the spices. Auf ein neues, Scott - -- ======================================================================== Scott Bickham bickham at msc.cornell.edu ========================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Sep 94 07:36:00 EST From: "Anderso_A" <Anderso_A at hq.navsea.navy.mil> Subject: Celis Message Creation Date was at 19-SEP-1994 07:36:00 Greetings, I would hate to be classified as a gossiper or a portent of ill omens, so I will ask this as a question and not state it as a fact. Over the week-end I was told by two completely different, and reasonably reliable, sources that Pierre Celis has just recently sold his Austin operation to Miller. Evidentally, Miller really covets the equipment more than the beer. This last "nugget" of information comes from Miller distributors in Texas. Now I'm asking you, is there any truth to these rumors? If "yes", I'd have expected to see long columns in the HBD describing the end of Western Civilization as we know it (-: Hopefully, someone closer to this issue can shed some light and dispell or confirm this evil rumor. (However, it wouldn't surprise me to see Pierre sell out and then take the money and build a bigger brewery.) Cheers, Andy A Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 09:57:53 UNDEFINED From: janco at atluw01.dbsoftware.com (Jim Ancona) Subject: Brewing with Winter Rye I was in the garden shop this weekend and saw a 5# bag of Winter Rye seed for sale. It occurred to me that I might be able to make beer out of it, and if not, I could always overseed my garden for the winter. The seed looks like overgrown grass seed (somewhat smaller and darker than 2 row barley malt). I assume I will have to crush it. Papazian claims that it gelatinizes at mash temperature (no cooking required), and that it tends to make a sticky mash. So my questions are: 1-Is Winter Rye seed the same grain that is normally referred to as rye? 2-Any reason not to try using this stuff? (There is no indication on the bag of any fungicides or other nasties being used.) 3-Anyone have any good partial or full mash recipes using unmalted rye? (I'm not ready to try malting it myself yet!) Thanks! - -- Jim Ancona JANCO at dbsoftware.com Opinions expressed are my own, and not those of D&B Software. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 07:34:18 +0900 From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) Subject: Nuking starters in the uwave On the subject of boiling starters in the microwave. Yep, did it. The trick here is to put the starter solution in the uwave and watch it very closely as it comes to a boil. Just as it starts to boil, reduce the power to about 2 or 3 and keep watching. You will find a power level setting on your uwave that will provide a nice rolling boil without blowing the starter solution out the top. This is very tricky. You must dance the power setting up and down while watching the starter. This isn't easy due to the screened glass on all uwaves. Put a plate under the flask just in case to minimize the cleanup. I used a screw top flask. Remove the flask ASAP when finish boiling. The inside of a uwave is pretty a good breeding ground for all sorts of things that would rather live in your starter. If are using an airlock, place a cotton plug in it while it cools. This will filter the air that will be sucked into the cooling vessel. Good luck, Bob Jones bjones at novax.llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 08:21:36 -0700 From: eurquhar at sfu.ca Subject: safely heating wort for a starter Hi everyone, There has been a lot of bandwidth concerning pyrex and heating lately. It can stand alot of heating and cooling if done evenly. Usually I will autoclave my starters as I have an easy access to such equipment. However, sometimes they need repairs and I need a starter NOW ! What I have been doing is using the microwave. I have not had any problems with this type of sterilization but it is a little different with a few rules. 1. Make sure the bottle is very clean and 2X the size of the amount of wort you wish to sterilize. 2. I have found that individual serving glass bottles such as used by fruit juice/ice tea producers ie. Snapple are perfect for this task as they are heat resistant glass and come with a metal cap which can be separately sterilized in boiling water. They are also 475 ml. 2. Pour in the required amount of wort. Put 1 or 2 small glass marbles into the bottle or flask to reduce the chance of violent boiling and the boil-overs that occur. Mark the outside of the flask with a non water soluble marker so you will know when original volume has again been reached. 3. Dilute the wort with approx. 1/3 as much water as there was wort to be sterilized. It will boil down to the original volume. 4. Cover the opening loosely with a piece of saran wrap that extends 1/2 way down the side of the bottle/flask to keep it sterile while cooling. 5. Microwave on high and boil for example, 150 ml final volume I have used 10 minutes at full boil. You may be able to get with less time for smaller volumes. 6. Let cool with saran wrap on top loose. Inoculate and put the sterilized metal cap on loosely to allow exhange of oxygen. Hope this is helpful for everyone. Eric Urquhart (eurquhar at sfu.ca) Centre for Pest Management, Dept. of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University, Burnaby , B.C. Canada V5A 1S6 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 09:22:57 -0600 (MDT) From: MARK CASTLEMAN <mwcastle at ouray.Denver.Colorado.EDU> Subject: HopTech Fruit extracts I am considering making a dark rasberry ale for Christmas. Has anyone used HopTech's concentrated fruit extracts? How well did they work? Any important caveats? Mark W Castleman Big Dog Brewing Cooperative - West Beer is my business, and business is good! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 94 11:17:26 EST From: turner at cel.cummins.com (Turner) Subject: beer alergy I have a friend who is alergic to beer. This only developed in the last 2 years. He likes beer and wants to determine what could be causing the reaction. I submit it to the experienced and better informed. I have hit the information brick wall. The reaction is a tightening of the throat causing difficulty to breathe and swallow. It is caused by all industrial beers he has tried, to varying degrees. Probably the worst reaction was from Michelob (tm). He can drink wine coolers and mixed drinks with no reaction. He can drink Sharps (tm) with only a VERY SLIGHT reaction after a whole bottle. (with Mich (tm) one swallow set him off bad). Does anyone here know of any common alergens in beer that would not be present in NA beer and other alcoholic drinks? The hope is to develop a Hypo-Allergenic beer for him. Please send private E-mail. If I get responses I will summarize. Thanks in advance, Steve Turner turner at cel.cummins.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 14:33:59 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: A clarification on HSA Since I posted the note about my opinion that HSA may be an area of too much concern, I realized that the discussion was centered on HSA effects on bitter wort as it is handled onto the fermenter. This is indeed an area where one should be careful to avoid HSA prior to chilling, as in a hop back (or worse, as wort is put through a funnel/strainer). Distinct sherry notes can develop from this practice. In my brewery there is some HSA that occurs in the production of sweet wort. In my opinion, this has not had terrible consequences on the beer quality. Now, maybe this is all just part of my house character, but usually my house beers dont sit around long, or get abused in transit, which can really damage an otherwise fine beer. Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 11:20:48 -0600 (MDT) From: COYOTE <SLK6P at cc.usu.edu> Subject: ErlenMeyers / Dry Hops / Blowoffs / Outside wort Worries on the Erlenmeyer thread: after the cracking story, I checked my two 1000 ml flasks. One is Pyrex, the other Kimax. I've used both a bunch, and neither has broken. I'm not very nice to them either. I've used electric stoves, direct gas heat, and even plunged them directly into ICE cold water on numerous occasions. Not to say they pups won't break! THe glass is thin. I have lost some before. Scratches are bad news. DO NOT BUMP A FLASK INTO A GALLON FULL OF HONEY (yes- I meant to shout!). A thin glass pushed abruptly against a thick glass will have detrimental results on the thin glass! As for the description of the flasks having a VOLCANO shape- enuf sed... WELL: That effect can be MOST evident if you heat in a microwave. I would not reccomend using FULL power, or tight covers. In fact- even for just boiling water, I will NOT use a microwave! They can and will ERUPT fluid all over the inside of the machine! Another caution: If you heat the water first, let it cool a bit, THEN add some DME. If you add it at direct boil- be sure to have a sponge handy, you'll need it! Also stirring at the onset of boil tends to release lots of gas= spewage. My solution: (aka- the Coyote Way) Use the patended "Pre_Boiler" also known as a small sauce pot. (I actually have a pyrex coffee pot- thick glass, metal strap, glass handle) Mix water, heat somewhat. Add DME. THen after a boil, pour into a presterile flask, cover with foil, or airlock. Place in icebath, or just cool water. Swirl on occasion (but don't bump it!) and replace the water when warmed. Once cool- pitch yeast, off you go. Another option: Use two flasks. Heat water in the first. Place DME in the second. After the boil, pour the hot water onto the DME. Mix to dissolve. Then GENTLY reheat the wort until the first bubbles of a boil form. Remove from heat and cool. Another thought: Add boiling chips to facilitate bubble formation and ease the threat of the Volcano Effect. *** I'd like to publicly thank Dave (it wa Dave wan't it?) who posted the wonderful sommary of info gleaned from the other Dave (Wills) at freshhops, and his personal experiments with hop drying, and use of wet hops. Very nicely stated, organized and informative post. Good thing you don't ramble the way I do!!!! *** Blowoffs: Someone mentioned that the cold break would be left at the bottom, and had concern that he'd lose the yeast off the top. Maybe your primaries aren't as active as mine, but with all the tumbling and turmoil (oh- so this is what you mean) of my early primaries churns up any and all matter that would be on the bottom, and with the movement I am SURE that all the yeast are not on top, and that ALL the yeast won't be lost to blowoff. I don't know how soluble the bittering elements are, but some nasty stuff does get pushed out. I've had side-by-side primaries, one blowoff, one not, and haven't tasted the non-blowoff and gone- Ptuuey. So.... BUT: I have sworn (again and again) that I will ALWAYS start with a blowoff tube. The threat of a clogged airlock, and exploding carboys, or major mess due to spewage is not worth the risk (IMHO). And even if it doesn't actually blowoff, the worry is eliminated. If you have a large carboy and leave like a foot of headspace, then sure...no worry. Personally I fill my 7 gallon cardudes...cuz I like BIG BREWS! YMMV. Do what you like. DoWhatYouLike. *** Bud- has some concerns about outside brewing, open lids, and contamination FWIW the /NEW/ Cosmic Coyote PicoBrewery is located in a furry, dusty garage. It is located right next to the dirty dog pen. They like to run and kick up the dust. The whole garage is covered with a thick layer of dust which spontaneously regenerates with a very short half life! It is also the dogs (all 4) passage to the outside. They like to hang out and eat food, and shed like crazy in there. My solution: Lock them outside during the brew process. Swab the deck- in the immediate area of the brewing with bleach soln. Chill fast as I can (I have an immersion setup) and keep the lid on as well as I can. You can use some extra foil around the open spot of the lid where the chiller emerges. js even drilled holes through his lid for his immersion chiller, so there is no air contact. I rack, and pitch BIG. That's my goal, add as much active happy yeast as possible and get that ferment pumping! So...brew on ya'll! The Coyote Speaks. \-/-\ John (The Coyote) Wyllie SLK6P at cc.usu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 94 13:57:44 EST From: elpeters at srel.edu Subject: Help with FTP Mail of HBD files Hello: I'm sorry to post this request to the list, but I have been sending this request to the listowner at the administrator address for over a month and a half and received no response. I am having trouble retrieving the HBD archive files from the server using FTP mail. I have been successful in obtaining the HELP files and the INDEX files, but not the actual files themselves. I have tried several variations on the send request, but I don't even get an error message. Could someone please try to retrieve a file and then send me the proper syntax. I know that I'm a newbie to the HBD (hence, wanting to read the FAQ before posting!), but I have used FTP mail for some time now (I have to, as my site has a dialout to Internet only a few times a day for security reasons), and I have never had this problem before. Thanks in advance, Eric Peters elpeters at srel.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 94 13:10:03 EDT From: Kaesm at aol.com Subject: Moving it outside... Good day fellow brewers... Regarding moving the brewing process outside, I went to all grain brewing about 18 months ago and began brewing on my back patio. My dog didn't seem to mind too much. My recommendation is to follow Charlie's rule of relax-don't worry... Do what you can to observe proper sanitizing, but my belief is that there is more bacteria floating around your kitchen than in you back yard (think of all that goo in the garbage disp.) The only infected batch I have made were due to external problems that had nothing to do with the brewing process. There is another brewer in our local club who also brews outside on a crab cooker and he makes very good brews. I brew in my garage in the winter (it gets rather chilly here in OR) and have had no problems regarding that either. Every one will find what works best for them where technique is concerned. Move it outside...your wife (or significant other) will be eternally greatful and you'll make fabulous brews with little or no trouble... Matt Kaess kaesm at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 10:55:02 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Liddil <JLIDDIL at AZCC.Arizona.EDU> Subject: Pyrex, Kimax, Breakage Here are the technical specs for pyrex and kimax Pyrex Kimax Annealing Point C 560 565 Strain Point degree C 510 513 Specific Gravity 2.23 2.23 Specific Heat cal/g C 0.2 0.205 Thermal Conductivity 0.0027 0.0028 Linear Coef of Expans. 33e-7/C 32e-7/degree C These glasses are very similar. With repsect to cracking, I spoke to the Croning Technical Services twice about this. First I have NEVER cracked a DRY erlenmeyer on a Laboratory Hotplate. I was told the serviceable life of a 1 liter Pyrex erelenmeyr is 1000's of heat cycles as long as the temp is not greater than 230 C. One can even heat it to 400 C but only expect 100-200 cycles. As long a s water is in the flask it should not exceed 100 C if EVENLY heated. Also heating over a flame is not a problem. The problem is due to the extremely low thermal conductivity of pyrex glass. Using an electric stove causes localized heating and expansion greater in one area than another area and a stress crack occurs. As others have suggest use a heat diffuser, a lab hot plate :-) or a flame. And don't put your glass through to much thermal stress whether it is pyrex or kimax. Jim Change Your Mind. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 94 15:04:23 EDT From: MFOR8178 at URIACC.URI.EDU Subject: what is Racking ? Sorry about asking such a seemingly obvious question, but since I am NEW to this (both the network and brewing) I am going to give it a try. Flame me if you want, Im man enough to not worry What is Racking? I have seen it mentioned in a few posts and was wondering if it is something that I have done already and not realized, or if it something I have not done and should be doing. I have only brewed two batches so far, a pale ale that came out decent but not great, and last night a made up a wort of English Bitter, that I hop comes out tasty and dark and roomtempature and not very carbonated. Anyway, I dont want to bore you with my drivel, just wondering what Racking means. Later, Mike Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Sep 94 11:39 CST From: Wolfe at act-12-po.act.org Subject: Mashing Wheat I'm getting ready to do my first all-grain wheat beer with an Easymasher. Does anyone have experience with an Easymasher and malted wheat? I'd like to know if it is prone to stuck sparges due to the higher protein and lower husk content of the grist. Also, what, if any, changes do I need to make in the mashing procedures to compensate? Ed Wolfe wolfe at act-12-po.act.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 15:28:00 -0400 (EDT) From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: dextrin,honey bubbles R. Marsh asked about using honey instead of dextrin malt in his holiday beer recipe. I would advise against it, as the dextrin malt would add mouth feel and body while honey would completely ferment out and add alcohol and maybe some residual flavor. In fact dextrin malt would do almost the exact opposit of honey. Atlansky at axe.humboldt worried aout not getting bubbles in his fermenter yet seeing a high krausen and drop in o.g. More than likely you have an air leak allowing the CO2 to excape without going out the air lock. I wouldn't worry about it, but next time check the seal using an empty fermenter with an airlock and press on the top to increase the pressure (assuming your using a plastic fermenter). This should cause bubbles to go out the air lock if you have a good seal. Hope this helps, Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 94 10:41:54 PDT From: bart at nexgen.com (Bart Thielges) Subject: Cracked flask summary Thanks to all of you who responded regarding my cracked flask problem. The overwhelming response indicated that these Pyrex/Kimax flasks are not designed to be heated directly on a burner since the heat is not evenly distributed. One easy way even out the heat distribution is to place the flask in a pan with a little water. This would have the added benefit as a catch basin for boil overs. I'm going to use that method for now on. Thanks again for everyone's help. Bart bart at nexgen.com Brewing equipment destroyed since last message : 0 (good thing since I haven't brewed lately ! :-) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 16:05:48 -0500 (CDT) From: Cree-ee-py Boy <BIRMINGH at FNALV.FNAL.GOV> Subject: Borosilicate glassware Al Korzonas says, concerning his Pyrex flasks: >However, despite being made from Pyrex (Corning), I try to not stress them >any more than I have to. Sure, I probably could plop a flask full of >boiling wort into an ice bath, but I don't. Good thing, too. I can't speak about Pyrex, but my bitter experience convinces me that the above is a really good way to crack Kimax (actually, it was a graduated cylinder, and I was spraying cool tapwater on the outside, but you get the point.) One thing I can get away with is setting the flask in the freezer, on top of a potholder. This keeps things from cooling down too rapidly. - -- Phillip J. Birmingham birmingh at fnalv.fnal.gov "Tampering in God's Domain since 1965!" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 16:43:39 -0500 (CDT) From: cush at msc.edu Subject: pub names (long) I came across this in the book "The Mother Tongue" (by Bill Bryson), about the history of the English language...I got a chuckle out of it, and thought I would share it with the Digest. I hope it's length does not clog the digest too much. (posted without permission....) (my apologies for mistakes and typos...I typed it quickly, and did no proof reading other than spell-checking) * * * . . . Equally arresting are British pub names. Other people are content to dub their drinking establishment with pedestrian names like Harry's Bar and the Greenwood Lounge. But a Briton, when he wants to sup ale, must find his way to the Dog and Duck, the Goose and Firkin, the Flying Spoon, or the Spotted Dog. The names of Britain's 70,000 or so pubs cover a broad range, running from the inspired to the improbable, from the deft to the daft. Almost any name will do so long as it is at least faintly absurd, unconnected with the name of the owner, and entirely lacking in any suggestion of drinking, conversing, and enjoying oneself. At a minimum the name should puzzle foreigners - this is a basic requirement of most British institutions - and ideally it should excite long and inconclusive debate, defy all logical explanation, and evoke images that border of the surreal. Among the pubs that meet, and indeed exceed, these exacting standards are the Frog and Nightgown, the Bull and Spectacles, the Flying Monk, and the Crab and Gumboil. However unlikely a pub's name may sound, there is usually some explaination rooted in the depths of history. British inns were first given names in Roman times, 2,000 years ago, but the present quirky system dates mostly from the Middle Ages, when it was deemed necessary to provide travelers, most of them illiterate, with some sort of instantly recognizable symbol. The simplest approach, and often the most prudent, was to adopt a royal or aristocratic coat of arms. Thus a pub called the White Hart indicates loyalty to Richard II (whose decree it was, incidentally, that all inns should carry signs), while and Eagle and Child denotes allegiance to the Earls of Derby and a Royal Oak commemorates Charles II, who was forced to hide in an oak tree after being defeated by Cromwell during the English Civil War. (If you look carefully at the pub sign, you can usually see the monarch hiding somewhere in the branches.) The one obvious shortcoming of such a system was that names had to be hastily changed every time a monarch was toppled. Occasionally luck would favor the publicans, as when Richard III (symbolized by a white boar) was succeeded by the Earl of Oxford (blue boar) and amends could be simply effected with a pot of paint. But pubkeepers quickly realized that a more cost-effective approach was to stick to generic names, which explains why there are so many pubs called the Queen's Head (about 300), King's Head (400), and Crown (the national champion at more than 1,000). Many pubs owe their names to popular sports (the Cricketers, the Fox and Hounds, the Cockpit), or to the workaday pursuits of the people who once drank in them. Pubs like the Plough, the Fleece, the Woolpack, and the Shepherd's Rest were clearly designed for farmers and farmworkers. The Boot was for cobblers, the anchor for sailors, and the Shoulder of Mutton for butchers. Not all references are so immediately evident. The Beetle and Wedge in Berkshire sounds hopelessly obscure until you realize that a beetle and wedge were basic tools of carpenters 200 years ago. Many of the oldest pub names represent religious themes - the Crossed Keys, the Seven Stars, the Hope and Anchor. the Lamb and Flag, a fairly common name in Britain still, was the symbol of the Knights Templar, who rode to the Crusades, and the Saracen's Head and Turk's Head commemorate their enemies' fate. Still other pub names are build around catchphrases, homilies, puns, and bits of philosophy, or are simply of unknown provenance. Names such as the Tumbledown Dick, First and Last, Mortal Man, Romping Donkey, Ram Jam Inn, Live and Let Live, and Man with a Load of Mischief (the sign outside depicts a man with a woman slung over his shoulder) all fall into this category. The picture is further clouded by the consideration that many pub names have been corrupted over the centuries. the Pig and Whistle is said to have its roots in peg (a drinking vessel) and wassail (a festive drink). the Goat and Compasses is sometimes said to come from "God Encompasseth Us." The Elephant and Castle, originally a pub and now a district of London, may have been the Infanta de Castille. The Old Bull and Bush, a famous pub on Hampstead Heath, is said to come from Boulogne Bouche and to commemorate a battle in France. Some of these derivations may be fanciful, but there is solid evidence to show that the Dog and Bacon was once the Dorking Beacon, that the Cat and Fiddle was once Caterine la Fidele (at least it is recorded as such in the Doomesday Book), and that the Ostrich Inn in Buckinghamshire began life as the Hospice Inn. . . . - -- > Cushing Hamlen, Client Services | cush at msc.edu > Minnesota Supercomputer Center, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Sep 94 14:23:51 EDT From: Randy Erickson <74763.2312 at compuserve.com> Subject: FREE (PLASTIC) CARBOYS When I recently bought a house, the seller, upon learning that I am a homebrewer, left me a half dozen plastic carboys. Five of these are the bottled water type and one is a Nalgene(tm)-looking thing with a gasketed screw-on lid. I think the brand is Sciencecraft or something. All are five gallon, all have been covered, and none contain(ed) gasoline, paint, motor oil, BudMilob, Zima, etc. What are some possible uses for these things and what sort of caveats apply? Uses that come to mind are trub settlers, bottling carboys, cooled boiled tapwater containers, emergency fermenters, etc. Just how "bad" is plastic for brewing? TIA, Randy Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Sep 94 12:50:59 EDT From: "William F. Cook" <71533.2750 at compuserve.com> Subject: Propane&Sanitation/NA Beer and nasties/Getting Red color Gary Melton w*rries about the sanitation issues of brewing outside. I would guess that the inside of the average house contains a fairly large assortment of nasties in quantities at least comparable to what is outside on the back porch. I actually had a string of infections once that halted as soon as I got a propane cooker and started brewing outdoors. This might be a special case that applies only to bachelor's kitchens, however. My only caution about brewing outdoors is that the pot has to be covered to keep the leaves out. Regarding the various methods for making low-alcohol homebrew, primarily from Jack Schmidling, I think, I am concerned that the lack of alcohol leaves the brew vulnerable to wild nasties. It seems that the widely held belief that nothing that can kill you or make you sick can live in beer would not apply to a very low-alcohol concoction. Am I w*rrying needlessly? I'd like to hear some thought on the matter if anyone has any. I've been trying to make a beer with a really RED color. Something along the lines of Pete's Wicked Red (color-wise, anyway). Unfortunately, everything I've tried has left me with too much brown/amber. My reading has suggested the use of a high proportion of Munich malt, but some 1# test mashes produced extract that didn't look at all red. I've tried a small amount of various roasted grains but never got anything that I thought was satisfactory, and in one case was force to alter my hop bill and make a porter (and a damn good one, I might add). Does the collective wisdom of the HBD have any suggestions? I guess I should mention that I'm an all-grain brewer. Thanx in advance! Bill Cook HydroComp, Inc. Team Dennis Conner Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 16:31:40 -0700 From: pascal at netcom.com (Richard A Childers) Subject: Call for Help from the Pacific Northwest Who could resist such a heartfelt plea ? I ask you !! (-: "From: Derek Atlansky <ATLANSKYD at axe.humboldt.edu> Subject: Help "I am fairly new to homebrewing and am having a problem with my most recent batch. On 9/11/94 I brewed a honey wheat beer from extract. After a few days, I was getting no activity from my airlock. A layer of foam a few inches thick covered the top of the beer. I decided to pitch a packet of dry yeast into it. (BTW, the first yeast was liquid -- Wyeast) It is now 2 days later and still no activity, but the foam is still there. The beginning specific gravity was 1.059. The specific gravity is now 1.020." Hmmm. Sounds suspiciously like fermentation, Derek, amigo. The foam is a dead giveaway. So is the falling specific gravity .... *something's* going on in there, that's for sure. The odds are that everything is going perfectly, and that the second batch of yeast was not called for. You know what it sounds like, to me ... ? A loose airlock. I've seen it a dozen times, at least. A tiny, tiny little less-than-perfect seal between the glass and the rubber, and there goes your basis for building pressure differentials. I have found that industrial epoxy cement is the best solution. It makes an excellent seal, and you can now carry the carboy by the vapor lock, as an added bonus. < ahem > Seriously, now ... there are three ways to fix it. (1) The Easy Fix ... reseat the plug a couple of times until it's set better. (2) The Hard Fix ... pour a little sugar water along the seam between the plug and the glass of the carboy. ( Kind of like epoxy but it dissolves in water. ) (3) The S/He-Man Fix ... pick the carboy up, rotate it until the fluid laps at the inside of the plug, and do like (2), but without using sugar water. This is actually more efficient, as the scum atop the wort is more likely to plug up whatever cracks exist, also sticky, and is being pushed into place from the inside pressure. I prefer (3), and, in fact, can be seen, frequently, waltzing with my carboy, late into the night, trying to correct small leaks. (-: (4) There's also a George Fix but I've heard his consulting services are pretty expensive for a lowely homebrewer. (-; Besides, he'd just refer you to the Home Brew Digest ... (-: Well, gotta get back to inhaling commercial solvents. Later, gang !! - -- richard Law : The science of assigning responsibility. Politics : The art of _distributing_ responsibility. richard childers san francisco, california pascal at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 94 01:05:00 UTC From: t.duchesneau at genie.geis.com Subject: Info/Recipe Request A couple years ago, a friend vacationed in Ireland and came back raving about a beer (ale?) called Smithwick's. Recently he and some other friends went to Montreal for the weekend and found Smithwick's there. Now they're all telling me how wonderful it is. Can anyone give me an accurate description of Smithwick's? Does anyone have an extract recipe which might come close to duplicating it? I haven't found any references to it in any of the books I own or the ones I checked at Borders. Any help would be appreciated. TIA. ...Tom - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Software Solutions, Inc. Your PC/network support team Albany NY When you need a pro on your side (518) 458-1860 Internet: T.DUCHESNEAU at GENIE.GEIS.COM - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1531, 09/20/94