HOMEBREW Digest #1554 Mon 17 October 1994

Digest #1553 Digest #1555

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  e-colli & cider (Gregg Tennefoss)
  Shipping beer (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  NJ Homebrew Laws according to NJBABC (Gary S. Kuyat)
  New Jersey Home Brew Store (FSAC-PMD) <pburke at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  Wort Areation ("Hubbard, John T")
  mashing (SMG9871)
  Dry vs. Liquid Yeast (Todd Wallinger)
  candy sugar (Pblshr)
  kegs (Jeff Stampes)
  Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #15... (AlphahWolf)
  Russian Ceremonial Wine (Brewmania)
  Temp Control in Kegs Part 1 (David Smucker)
  Octrobor Ambor, Cyser, and Yeast Bite ? (David Haas)
  CO2 and it's physical properties (BrewerLee)
  Zap-pap revisited (BrewerLee)
  private e-mail (SMG9871)
  Shipping beer/alcohol (BrewerBob)
  That Botulism Thread (npyle)
  holiday ale (Cecila Strickland )
  Modifying Pressure Cookers (Jay Williams)
  Re: botulism (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Spigots... (Jack Schmidling)
  Re: Aerating Starter Cultures (Richard A Childers)
  Hop plugs and why I like whole hops best (Glenn Tinseth)
  Celis Razzberry Ale (Louis K. Bonham)
  Brewing supply stores in the bay area (Gilad Barak)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 14 Oct 1994 13:01:04 -0400 (EDT) From: greggt at infi.net (Gregg Tennefoss) Subject: e-colli & cider Thanks right gang - There is an artice in October's Ladies Home Journal about an outbreak of e-colli linked to cider. The story goes that farmers use the fallen apple's to make cider. If an apple happens to fall on some animal droppings with e-colli and the apples are not cleaned prior to pressing, bingo - a nasty bug in a bucket of nice sweet cider. I think the alcohol content when the cider is fermented should kill the nasty but if you are like me, I like to save some raw cider to drink. If you haven't heard about e-colli, it is the nasty the killed those peaple from eating undercooked hamburger that had been infected. It seems to attack the digestive track and take out the liver in some cases. Apparently children and older folks are at the most risk. just a data point !! cheers Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Oct 94 18:11:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Shipping beer John writes: >Are you saying that the AHA has no paid employees? And why isn't the AHA in >the business of encouraging homebrewing/homebrewers? And if they are in the >business of running the National Competition, that means they are in the >business of making it possible to send entries. Not at all. The mission statements of both the AHA and AOB are found on the staff pages in zymurgy. Basically, they are a non-profit, educational organization. They collect and disseminate information, serve as a forum, encourage responsible use of beer as an alcohol-containing beverage, etc. For the record, the AoB has 32 paid employees -- I do not know how many are full-time and how many are part-time. >I think you are avoiding the real issue, Al. The AHA isn't willing to step up >to almost any of the issues they reasonably should be addressing. And they >don't do that good a job of what they do, anyway. It doesn't matter whether >they are all paid or all volunteer or a mix. A more responsible organization >would do what they could to encourage homebrewing, whether it was just >encouraging AHA members to go on a letter-writing campaign, or actually >speaking out on issues directly. Not to mention lobbying. Perhaps, but Norm and I have discussed this offline and part of the problem stems from the fact that individual states have various laws regarding the shipment of alcohol. One state that does not allow interstate shipment of alcohol without all kinds of permits is California. This means that technically, homebrewers in CA cannot legally send their beers to competitions outside of their state. I think that we are not a strong enough voice (we don't have enough people or money) to actually change any laws. We certainly don't have the money or power of the neoprohibitionists nor are we going to convince the major brewers to support our cause -- they would much rather see Beer Across America, et. al. go belly up. I'm sure that their lobby is stongly supporting MORE restrictive laws regarding the interstate shipment of alcohol-containing beverages. So let's be realistic about this. If we attract too much attention, without a big war chest to counter-lobby Congress, the National Competition might be legislated out of existance. And they don't have to catch each person at the UPS counter -- all they have to do is raid the National Competition staging area -- every bottle comes in with the entrant's name and address. Somewhere, I read that it is legal to ship alcohol-containing beverages for the purpose of analysis. I think that a strong legal case could be made that competitions are nothing more than a group of certified judges and apprentices analysing beer. However, we can never be quite sure of who is paying attention to what we are doing. Talk to Bert Grant (or better yet, David Koresh's mom) about the power of the BATF. My personal position is to try to stay within the law and as long as the US government chooses to stay indifferent about homebrew competitions, avoid attracting unnecessary attention. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 94 15:33:46 EDT From: Gary S. Kuyat <gsk at sagan.bellcore.com> Subject: NJ Homebrew Laws according to NJBABC Full-Name: Gary S. Kuyat Arrugh! That's all I can say about the ULTRA-RESTRICTIVE brewing laws (or regulations?) in New Jersey! I spoke to a representative of NJ's Bereau of Alcoholic Beverage Control, and she explained the "law" like this: 1) You Must have a permit to Brew Malt Berverages (different than wine) The permit costs $3 and that's fine. You may produce 200 gal/year. 2) You may ONLY consume the beer you make at the address listed on the permit. In other words, no homebrew meetings, no bringing your beer to a friend's house, no bringing it out to dinner, no bringing it ANYWHERE! 3) Exception to #2 are "contests" where a NJBABC Social Affairs Permit has been applied for and granted. A non-profit organization may obtain up to a dozen of these per year. This got added on when I asked about a contest our Homebrew club was thinking of running. Why, you may be asking, would this FOOL actually contact Big Brother on his own, and make them aware of his existance? (And by the way, I don't see YOUR name on our list of Communist Brewers...!) Well, as time goes on, our Club has public interactions which may be noticed by the state. In fact we've been told by a runner of a beer fest that we may not distribute free samples according to NJBABC. One thing that kinda stinks here is that nobody from this state organization could point me to any LAWS that tell me, as a brewer, what I can and can't do. They could not even send me anything in writing! (Shades of Grant's BATF run in) When I finally pressed them, they said I should put all my questions in writing, then they would decide what I could do. This sounds kinda goofy! Could you imagine if traffic laws were done like this!?!! Does anybody know how I can find out what is the LAW in NJ regarding this stuff? These folks really sound like they're making this up as they go. - -- -Gary Kuyat gsk at sagan.bellcore.com (908)699-8422 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 94 15:43:07 EDT From: "Peter J. Burke" (FSAC-PMD) <pburke at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: New Jersey Home Brew Store Greetings to all, I've just returned from the best homebrewing store I've ever been to: Hop & Vine, 11 DeHart St. Morristown NJ. Great selection, Great prices, Great balls of Fire !! Very convinient hours (something that most NJ stores LACK !) Su 12-5 Mo Closed (Oh well ...) Tu 1030-7pm We 1030-9pm Th 1030-7pm Fr 1030-7pm Sa 1030-7pm Just thought I've give them a plug (I'm not affiliated, just infatuated) One block off of South Street near the Green. (201) 993-3191 for info and directions. They have Sunday evening homebrew tastings, and are starting the Morristown Mashers Brewing Club. I can't make Sundays, is anybody out there in the club who I can talk with ?? Send reply to <pburke at pica.army.mil> Pete Burke Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 94 15:21:00 CDT From: "Hubbard, John T" <jthubbar at po3.pcmail.ingr.com> Subject: Wort Areation I am a relatively new homebrewer and this is my first post to HBD. I have seen several posts about wort areation, but never quite got the whole picture. Can someone fill me in on the advantages and methods for areation? Perhaps private email would be the best way to respond. Thanks, John Hubbard jthubbar at ingr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 1994 18:51:39 -0500 (EST) From: SMG9871%SIENA.BITNET at VM.ITS.RPI.EDU Subject: mashing First off I would like to thank you all for the education in this hobby i started 6 months ago, I am now a brewing fool. I have reached the point that I want to start all grain brews. Would some one be kind enough to send me some private E-mail on the ins and outs of mashing all grain batches? What I need to know is what I need, how hard is it, how much will it cost for all the necesities and most of all how do I get the temp. control that everyone speaks of. Thank you to anyone with the time and patience to respond, Mark Garwatoski Siena College Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 94 17:20:42 MDT From: wall at simtek.com (Todd Wallinger) Subject: Dry vs. Liquid Yeast Chris Lyons writes: >... The benifits of dry yeast are clear. Using dry yeast is far >cheaper for insuring proper pitching rates, and is much easier to use (no >poping packages and waiting 2 +/- 1 day to get the brew going). The question >always comes back to the quality of dry yeasts ... and this has improved >significantly over the last two years. ... Your points are well made and I agree that dry yeast isn't as bad as commonly thought. There is one disadvantage of dry yeast, however, that is the main reason I use only liquid yeast: a lack of variety. The strain of yeast used has as big an effect on the flavor, aroma, etc. of the finished beer as the malt and hops do. And dry yeast simply does not provide the variety of strains that liquid does. As an example, there is currently no way to make a German-style wheat beer, with its characteristic banana and clove phenolics, with a dry yeast. There are several liquid wheat beer yeasts available, however, giving you control over the amounts of these various phenolics in your beer, as well as the attenuation, esters, etc. Todd Wallinger wall at simtek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 1994 21:41:22 -0400 From: Pblshr at aol.com Subject: candy sugar I'm looking for a source for candy sugar. Some buddies and I are brewing a Belgian triple on 11/5. Please respond to pblshr at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 94 13:19:56 MDT From: jeff at neocad.com (Jeff Stampes) Subject: kegs I'm just about to make the move to kegging my brews, and had a question regarding the fittings on them (ball vs. pin) . . . I'm going to go look at a restaurant supply house to see what they have (the guy says he has 20 he wants to get rid of, but doesn't knoww hat kind of fittings they have) . . . questions: What type is preferable? Can you buy fittings to replace them to standardize whatever type I go with? Can you buy various fittings for the CO2 line to fit to different kegs? If fittings are replaceable, what sort of cost are we looking at? TIA! Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 01:11:02 -0400 From: AlphahWolf at aol.com Subject: Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #15... I need help finding a book in time for Christmas!!! The Book is called THE BEER BOOK by Sonja and Will Andersen. If anyone has a copy they would like to sell please let me know. Send Information to DonnahB at AOL.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 02:10:49 -0400 From: Brewmania at aol.com Subject: Russian Ceremonial Wine I recently had the chance to try Braga in a Russian village in Alaska.It had quite a kick, one glass and you're half crocked. They are very protective of the recipe. I was hoping that someone on the Internet could help me. Thanks in advance, Ken S. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 05:25:32 -0400 (EDT) From: David Smucker <smucker at use.usit.net> Subject: Temp Control in Kegs Part 1 Temperature controlled fermenting in Kegs Part I I recently put into service as part of my brewing, a system to allow temperature control of 15.5 gallon kegs during fermentation. This system uses cooling from the freezer compartment of my brew storage fridge, a insulated 55 gallon drum to contain the keg and a glycol circulation system heat transfer method. This system also uses a small circulation pump and a temperature controller. It is call a COOLOMATIC-FERMENTER (TM) to protect it from Jack. This system was fun to build and while the cost would be considered high for some of you it took less space and cost less for me than adding a special fermentation freezer (cooler) that would hold those heavy kegs. Please feel to use any or all of these ideas in any form despite the COOLOMATIC-FERMENTER (TM). Why did I need this, well, I like fermenting in 1/2 barrel kegs even if they do weigh about 150 pounds when full. First they are easy to clean and much easier to clean and handle that 3 -- 6 gallon carboys. (You have to like brewing in 12 to 15 gallon batches of course.) They don't break, I have now wiped out 2 carboys, none with beer in them. Most important I like getting 3 -- 5 gallon kegs that come out the same. Some of you out there will of course, for many good reasons, prefer 3 carboys which can be fermented in a temperature controlled fridge or converted freezer. This is just another way of handling 15 gallon batches. What does this system look like and what does it do? It uses a normal sanke keg as the fermentation vessel with just the downtube removed. This goes inside of an 30 gallon poly drum which fits with insulation inside of a 55 gallon steel drum. A water glycol solution is used to cool the fermenter and this fluid is pumped through a copper coil in the freezer section of my brew storage fridge. The pump is control by a temperature controller that measures the temperature of the cooling fluid. It is a compact system and because the 55 gallon drum is on casters it is an easy system to get the heavy fermenter into. I use a pressure transfer system to remove the green beer from the fermenter and into 5 gallon kegs for storage and lagering. All total the system cost me about $ 150 and I am very happy with it. / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / coil in freezer | | |XX| |XX| |XX| |XX| |XX| |--------------| |XX| |XX| | | |XX| |XX| | | |XX| interconecting |XX| | | |XX| hoeses and fittings |XX| | keg | |XX| |XX| | | |XX| |XX| | | |XX| |XX| | | |XX| |XX| | | |XX| |XX| |--------------| |XX| |XX| pump |XX| |XX|------------------|XX| |XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| |XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| Dave Smucker <smucker at use.usit.net.> Knoxville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 03:10:34 -0700 (PDT) From: David Haas <dhaas at coyote.csusm.edu> Subject: Octrobor Ambor, Cyser, and Yeast Bite ? This has been by last three experinces in brewing, been almost a year now. All help and information is encouraged. thanks Octrobor Ambor Mash: 4lb amer 2-row $.60 lb cheap 5oz crystal 10L 11 oz chocolate malt 40 min protein rest at 122 1 hr at 150-153 10 min 157 Extract: 4lbs John Bull light 2lbs JB Amber Misc: 2 oz semi-sweet baking chocolate 30 min into boil 1 1/2 inch licorce 1 gallon TreeTop 100% natural apple juice in fermenter 6 oranges picked in backyard juiced and the hand cut last 10 min boil then read message here saying don't use white part of the orange because of to much bitterness opppsss... Hops: 1/2 - 1 oz Casacde 6.7% 1 1/2 oz Perle Flowers 8.9% BOIL 1 oz cascade fresh 6.7% 30 min then aroma 1/2 oz cascade Brewed 9-22-94 Bottled 10-11-94 pitched 2 packs whitebread Ale Yeast dry one pack rehydrated one dumped on top of wert. 24 hours for primary fermentation to start Greggs Cheap Charger Beer brewed for friend Mash: 7lbs 2-row cheap of course 1lb crystal 10L extended times because of to much sampling on day off makes for long day started 11:15 am at 131 temp mash 11:40 finish sparge 2:30 beg boil 3:00 end boil 4:00 pm 1 1/2 lb honey added in boil Hops: 1 oz MtHood 5.9% begn 1/2 oz same 30 min aroma 1/4 - 1/2 cascade 6.7% and 1/4 oz same above Pitched into all of the yeast from the Octrobor Ambor batch brewed 10-11-94 then read about Yeast Bite from another message the day after I brewed :) he did mention that yeast bite will disappear in 3-4 weeks after bottling no worries next time I will remove close to 1/2 the yeast slurry ... thanks go out to the information Tidal Wave Cyser 3 lbs corn sugar and 5 lbs honey in pot with 1 1/2 gallon water 4 cinnamon sticks 2 inch in length 10 minutes 3 gallons TreeTop 100% apple juice pitched 3 packs dry champagne yeast 2 rehydrated Question? 3 big tsp yeast nutrient added at time of yeast I read a recipe in Papazian adding the nutrient to the boil ??? when is best? Brewed 9-20-94 Racked 10-6-94 Octrobor, and Gregg Brew 6 1/2 gallon carboy Cysyer 5 gallon carboy I enjoy messages regarding how people brew it intrigues me Big Wave Dave the surfing brewmeister Sunny Honey Lager Black Gold Porter also 2 wheats, a red and a brown, of course a Barley Wine last 22oz bottle going to Parents today on their 28th wedding anv bottled 5-14-94 what can I say we loved it to much now none is left but I will cherish all further makings of mead and cider in my 5 gallon carboy happy brewing to all also run a BBS with ShareWare E-mail for number in Southern CA man what a horrible plug at the end Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 10:47:29 -0400 From: BrewerLee at aol.com Subject: CO2 and it's physical properties Stan Fisher posted regarding the CO2 issue: > They force liquid CO2 into your tank > and weigh it as they fill. when my tank increases in weight by 20 pounds, > they disconnect it. I get a full tank of liquid. There has been alot of talk lately about CO2 and its properties. Some hear it slosh, some don't, etc. Here's what I know: CO2 is used in some specialty applications as a refrigerant (R-744). There are some basic rules that apply to all gasses and liquids and as a refrigerant, these have been adquately documented in trade manuals (I'm in the HVAC field). Critical pressure of a substance is the highest temperature at which the substance may be liquefied regardless of the pressure applied to it. Carbon Dioxide (R-744) has a critical temperature of 87.8 deg F. So what does that mean? If you hear sloshing in your tank, the CO2 is under 87.8 degrees. Period. It will not liquefy under 87.8 degrees, ever. The ambient temperature may be over that but something has cooled your CO2 down. It might have been releasing some pressure since as pressure is released, liquid CO2 boils off absorbing heat and there will be a cooling efect on the remaining gas. Have you ever seen the condensation on your propane tank while grilling? Same idea. Ok, now. How can you tell if you have a full tank? Weight. It's the easiest way. Weigh your tank empty and write it on the side. Now remember, The CO2 will not liquefy at higher temperatures so what happens at higher temps? The gas increases it's pressures on the container. CO2 at 87.8 deg F has a specific pressure of 1066.2 psi. Lower temperature = lower pressure. Higher temperature = higher pressure, so you can see that the high presure gauge is of limited use, unless you know the temperature of the gas inside. If the tank is below 87.8 deg F. there is liquid in it and the pressure will remain constant untill either the temperature changes or the liquid is no longer present. In other words, if you release some CO2, some of the liquid will boil off and replace that volume of gas. The container will reach equilibrium at a pressure corresponding to the temperature, not the volume. There is an equation called Perfect Gas Equation that will let you figure it out if you so desire: PV=MRT Where P=pressure in Pounds per Square Foot Absolute (sea level is 14.7 psi absolute so you would have to convert to psf and add that to your pressure on the tank), V=volume in cubic feet, M=mass of gas in pounds, R=gas constant (for CO2 the value is always 38.82), T=absolute temperature R (Rankine scale, F + 460). Now to make it very easy for those of you who don't care about all that: At standard conditions (sea level at 68 deg F.) Co2 has a specific volume of 8.15 cu ft. That means at zero pressure on a cool day, you can expect to get about 163 cu ft of gas at 0 psi from 20 lb of CO2. If you want to figure out how many kegs of beer that is at 5 psi, use the formula above, I don't care! :) Hope this clears a couple of questions up. -Lee Bussy BrewerLee at aol.com lee.bussy at twsubbs.twsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 10:47:40 -0400 From: BrewerLee at aol.com Subject: Zap-pap revisited David Draper misunderstood my comments abot the Zap-pap in 1551 and posted this in 1553: > Dear Friends, in HBD 1551, BrewerLee at aol.com opined that one could get by > with the Zapap/double-bucket/twin-bin sparging setup for partial mashes, > but appeared to suggest that one would be doomed to poor extraction > efficiency if one used such a system for all-grain batches. Sometimes everything that I'm thinking does not make it to print and the resultant condensation of my words lets crucial tidbits fall through the cracks. The Zap-pap as defined in TNCJOHP has some inherent shortcomings: No insulation, large dead spave volume, low total capacity, and a few others. It has been suggested by others in E-mail and on the digest that there are ways to improve it. Indeed, there are many ways to improve it but I came to the conclusion that to modify it to meet my needs, it would take far more work and money than it would be to just modify a cooler I had in my garage. Even if I had found it easier to modify the zap-pap, I would be in trouble now doing high gravity beers and 10 gallon batches. There is going to be a few people that want to point out their last high gravity beer was done in a zap-pap and fine... that's not what I mean by high gravity. I mean H I G H gravity. Turbo beer. Jet fuel. This is all just my needs and preferences but hopefully with enough input these people asking questions will be able to make a decision that is right for them. As far as partial mashes go, the zap-pap is the easiest to make and most often is made from materiels laying around the house. _This_ is what I meant by great for partial mashes as well. If you are going to go all grain, try it the easy way first and then decide. The zap-pap was for many of us our first introduction to grain brewing. It was for me and I still have mine. I no longer use it for brewing regular batches because of the shortcomings I outlined above but I still use it to teach, or for regular gravity, 5 gallon batches (and I don't do very many of these). As far as extract efficiency goes, I have achieved a best efficiency of 31 pts/lb with the zap-pap (modified) and 32 pts/lb with my 10 gallon Gott cooler with the same recipe and grains. Not a big deal and as I stated in my first post, you can always add a little more grain. > there is no reason to expect that mashing a larger amount of > grain (i.e., as in a full- grain batch) will of necessity give a poorer > result than mashing a smaller amount of grain (as in a partial mash). Not what I meant. You can always add a little more DME to a partial mash recipe to make up for any shortcomings in your extraction. The extract efficiencies should be very close but it is just less of a problem with a partial mash. > Lee, at what amount of grain do you reckon the > extraction efficiency will start suffering? What do others think? Like I said, that's not what I meant. If you are doing a mash of say 8 pounds of pale malt, you may have figured to get (or the recipe was figured to get) 31 pts/lb. This results (in a 5 gallon batch) in a gravity of 1.047. What happens if you only get 25 pts/lb (a pretty good chance with an unmodified zap-pap)? You get a 1.039 or a 17% drop in original gravity. If you were doing a partial mash of the same recipe using 3.3 lbs of extract syrup and 4 lbs of pale malt. You still figure on that same 31 pts/lb extract from your mash and still only get 25. What happens? You end up with a 1.043 OG. The difference? An 8% drop in OG or roughly half of what you would loose in the full grain batch. So, backed up with facts and figures I finally explain myself without offending people.... I hope! :) -Lee Bussy BrewerLee at aol.com lee.bussy at twsubbs.twsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 11:09:57 -0500 (EST) From: SMG9871%SIENA.BITNET at VM.ITS.RPI.EDU Subject: private e-mail Just a quick comment/complaint a=FE=F2bout private e-mail. Almost ev= ery day i read a request for info or coments that are very usful to a= =20 beginner like myself only to get to the end and read "private e-mail preferred". Could you please share this info and recipes with the rest of us? TIA, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 11:26:12 -0400 From: BrewerBob at aol.com Subject: Shipping beer/alcohol I've read at least a dozen postings on the beer shipping do's and dont's and finally John DeCarlo mentioned the one thing that I think you are all missing. The shipping of alcohol by UPS is not illegal for the reasons that you have been looking at. It is not because it is alcohol, per se, but because it is, or may be, "untaxed" alcohol! It is illegal to ship alcohol without paying the appropriate tax(es) that may be due. Since Homebrew is not taxed, it is not illegal to ship it, as such. It may still be illegal because of the restriction that homebrew is for personal consumpsion only, however. John mentioned "legitate tastings" in his note. It is LEGAL to send homebrew via UPS to someone for the purpose of ANALYSIS! Hence, sending beer to a contest is okay because that is exactly what they will be doing, analysing it! No taxes are due if it is homebrew and is not being sold, etc. Y'all get so uptight! My goodness! Relax and have another homebrew! Just decided to get my $.02 worth in... Keep on brewin' the good stuff! BrewerBob in St Augustine, Florida, where warm weather brewing is a way of life. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 94 14:14:14 MDT From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM Subject: That Botulism Thread Ash Baker writes: >I've never heard the thought that extract crystallises and thus causes a >can to bulge -- it sounds good to me. _But,_ there is the possibility, >however remote, that the cans are infected with botulism. The problem >with botulism is that the bacteria excrete a substance which is a _very_ >nasty poison. Boiling will kill the bacteria, but the poison will still >be there, and it _can_ kill you. The possibility is slight, but I I use mason jars to put away vegetables and salsa, etc. The advice given by the makers of the jars is to boil the vegetables for some amount of time (20 minutes?) after removing them from the jars (I'm talking about after storage). At that point, it is safe to eat the veggies. Think about that scenario and it'll remind you what is taken care of by boiling. If the poison was still around after boiling, it might kill you, and nobody would can vegetables, and the mason jar people would go out of business. The *poison* is denatured by boiling. The bacteria may survive, but it apparently doesn't do well in your digestive system, or people would get sick from canned veggies, etc. later on. This in no way attempts to guess what happens to the bacteria if it survives into the fermenter (which is possible), I just wanted to straighten out this common mistake about botulism. Cheers, Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Sat 15 Oct 94 16:52:40-PDT From: Cecila Strickland <CID at mathom.xkl.com> Subject: holiday ale Hi, I've made this Holiday Ale every year since 1990. The character of each year differs with the malts and honey, but also as to where I've purchased the spices. Makes sense, since newer spices are more "potent" than old. Caveat: This beer is best drunk after *at least* 3 months "maturing." I drank the last bottle of the 1990 batch last week, and it was utterly perfect. A real keeper, this one. 5 lbs light extract (preferably Australian) 4 oz chopped ginger (20 min) 3 lbs dry light extract 1 oz Star Anise buds (20 min) 1 lb light crystal malt 1 oz cinammon stick (20 min) 1 lb medium crystal malt .5 oz whole cloves (20 min) 1 cup choc malt 1 oz chopped ginger (10 min) 1 lb honey grated rind of 2 oranges (10 min) 1 oz Chinook hops (1 hr boil) 1 oz cardamon (10 min) 1/2 oz Cascade hops (10 minute boil) 1 tbsp Irish Moss (10 minutes) 1 pkg dry yeast (I too have given up on Wyeast - I'm using Cooper's Dry these days. Starts fast.) 2/3 cup corn sugar to prime o.g. 1.055 - 1.065 t.g 1.018 - 1.014 Boiling time = 60 minutes Primary fermentation - 12 days in plastic, about 70-75 degrees Secondary fermentation - 7-12 days in glass, same temp Add crystal and choc malts to 1 1/2 gallons water. Bring up to temp to near boil. Take off heat and stew while 4 gallons water are brought to boil. Sparge grains with 1 gallon 170 degree water. Add runoff to boiling water with extracts, honey and appropriate hops and spices. At 50 minutes add last spices, hops and Irish Moss. Cool, move to Primary and fix with airlock. Watch fermentation - it can be pretty wild. Happy brewing, Cyd - ------- Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 20:56:33 -0500 (CDT) From: Jay Williams <JRW4184 at UTARLG.UTA.EDU> Subject: Modifying Pressure Cookers Richard B. Webb writes: >Essentially, one must vent steam under pressure into the >mash. The rest is detail. I have a pressure cooker that has a >stem on top. This is usually where the small weight for >increasing the pressure goes. For steam injection, a hose of >some sort must be clamped onto this stem. To which Pat Anderson replies: >This is probably not the safest way to go...leave the stem >for the weight, it is your pressure regulator. You want the >pressure to stay under 5 psi. I would say this is good, sound advice. To prove Pat's point, consider the following true story. A woman I once new was canning some black-eyed peas (a Southern delicacy :-)). The pressure cooker she was using was not functioning properly. She decided to modify the pressure cooker by placing a hammer on the stem and weight. When the pressure cooker blew up, it caused a significant amount of damage. The stove it sat on was completely destroyed. The lid (and hammer went through the ceiling and roof, never to be found again. The glass jars, boiling water, and peas became shrapnel. The woman was standing about 15 feet away. She was severely burned and would have bled to death from glass cuts had she not been talking on the phone at the time. The neighbor she was talking to heard the explosion, and called an ambulance when the woman would not respond (because she had gone into shock). If you want to modify your pressure cooker, go ahead. The newer ones have blowout plugs that act as secondary relief valves when the primary weight and stem fail. But remember, if you should happen to get all of the safeties of the pressure cooker bypassed, you have a bomb that can explode with devastating consequences. I personally think the risks outweigh the rewards on this one. Jay Williams jrw4184 at utarlg.uta.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 94 22:04:50 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: botulism Boiling will destroy the botulin toxin, but will NOT kill the spores. This is why non-acid foods must be pressure canned (10 min at 250 will kill the spores). And, why home canning books always recommend boiling canned veggies for at least 15 minutes before tasting. =Spencer in Ann Arbor, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 94 22:30 CDT From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Spigots... >From: ron_hall at hp-corvallis.om.hp.com >It has taken me a year or so to get up the nerve to cut a hole in this $135 pot, but after a year of either siphoning or dumping 5-6 gallons of chilled wort into the carboy, I'm ready to take the plunge. It's traumatic the first time, but once you start using it, you will wonder how lived without it. > I don't want to pay the expense of having a spigot welded into the pot right now, so I thought I would try drilling a hole and then sandwiching a fabric washer with two pipe fittings in the hole, a la Easymasher (tm) (Look at a JSP ad for details). It's fiber not "fabric". > My questions are: >-How high up should I drill the hole from the bottom to leave the cold break? I would suggest at least an inch. The EM is designed to be 1 1/4" off the bottom but the screen is actually on the bottom. It can be rotated up or down so you can play with it from bottom to about 3" off. > -Will the fabric washer hold up to the 35k BTU propane burner I use for boiling? If the flame is playing directly on it, probably not but then you wouldn't want it playing on the spigot either. If it is not in the direct flame, it shouldn't get much hotter the liquid inside. Having said that, you should realize that the washer has nothing to do with the sandwich and is neither necessary or even important. The sandwich consists of the brass fittings and the steel kettle wall. The threads on the EM are straight threads, i.e., like a nut and bolt and they snug up without the need for anything else. The fittings you buy at the hardware store have pipe threads, i.e., tapered and won't snug up to anything. Filling the space with washers is hit and miss and lousy design. The only reason a washer is supplied with the EM was to take up the shoulder on the spigot on very thin kettles. The shoulder has been eliminated and the washer is included out of habit. > Note that this is for a brew kettle, not a mash tun (I use a Gott cooler for mashing), so it will see much prolonged heat. No problem. Just keep it (the spigot) out of the flame. > -What should I use to strain out loose hops, cold break, etc., on the inside of the brew kettle? Easymasher or Jeff Frane super-centrifugal siphon ring? Not sure what Jeff's scsr is but, the EM includes the screen so you might as well try it. BTW, someone mentioned that particles can work their way into the screen on the EM and I thought it would be a good time to point out that the screen now has a welded seem instead of a wraparound and NOTHING can get through. I just had to buy billions and billions to get a decent price. js Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 20:51:55 -0700 From: pascal at netcom.com (Richard A Childers) Subject: Re: Aerating Starter Cultures "Date: Fri, 14 Oct 1994 13:09:12 -0400 (EDT) From: "Seth L. Betaharon" <sethb at wam.umd.edu> Subject: Aerating starter cultures . . . . "If anyone ... could offer any suggestions ... a response would be greatly appreciated." How about putting the flask atop a magnetic heating/stirring platform, dropping in a suitably sanitized magnet-immersed-in-plastic-liner-stuff, and turning on the magnetic rotation, to keep the thing slowly stirring, for a few hours, or days ? These stirring/heating platforms are useful for a lot of other things, too, and fit in well with a growing collection of tubing and labware. (-: Do-it-yourself'ers could probably rig one up with a small motor and a few large magnets taped to the rotor, turning underneath a small platform. ( Do I hear an EasyYeaster developing in the background ? ;-) - -- richard "I gathered I wasn't very well liked. Somehow, the feeling pleased me." _Nine Princes In Amber_, by Roger Zelazny richard childers san francisco, california pascal at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 1994 00:46:03 -0700 From: gtinseth at teleport.com (Glenn Tinseth) Subject: Hop plugs and why I like whole hops best barry at odf.UCSD.EDU (Barry Nisly) writes: < Also, is it true that all US hop plugs are plugged in the UK? You'd think < that they could buy a plug machine (or build one), save all the shipping < costs, and drop the price some. Yes, it's true. And the US hops aren't hurried over to England--they're sent in a container, on a ship, without refrigeration, packaged in burlap. Hop plugs of US hop varieties are, IMHO, one of the silliest things I've heard of. Why not buy fresh whole domestic hops from a reputable supplier who cares for their hops (any of dozens of homebrew shops, HopTech, Freshops,or little ol' me)? What advantage do plugs offer over well-cared-for whole hops? Storage space is reduced and the hops are in 1/2 oz chunks. Disadvantages? "Plugging" causes mechanical damage to the lupulin glands and generates heat, causing oxidation, and the hops are in 1/2 oz chunks (it's both an advantage and a disadvantage, depending on how much you want to add to your wort). How about a discussion about what forms of hops people use most often and why? I'll start. I use whole hops because I believe the aromatic essential oils are at their peak in fresh, whole hops. I also like whole hops ability to form a nice filter bed and not clog the output screen on my brewkettle. I really like the aesthetics of whole hops. I might be talked into using pellets for bittering if I couldn't get decent whole hops, but *never* for aroma additions or dryhopping! Plugs would be my second choice for late kettle additions and dryhopping. Let's hear some other opinions, and oh yeah, Hoppy Brewing, Steve E. <smirk> Glenn Tinseth--Unplugged Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 1994 23:49:01 From: lkbonham at beerlaw.win.net (Louis K. Bonham) Subject: Celis Razzberry Ale At the Dixie Cup competition in Houston today, Pierre Celis made a guest appearance to formally introduce his new Razzberry Ale, which will go on sale later this month in Dallas, Austin, and Houston. Mr. Celis explained that the Razzberry Ale is made using the Celis White as a base, and then adding razzberry juice (imported from Belgium) and allowing a ten day secondary fermentation. The beer is then filtered and packaged (it will be available in kegs and bottles). [Of interest, Mr. Celis remarked that he, personally, wanted to make a peche using Texas peaches, but marketing studies indicated that the razzberry beer would do best commercially.] The beer is extremely dry, with a pronounced razzberry flavor. It is clearly a fruit beer, and no one will mistake it for a lambic (nor is Celis claiming or suggesting that it is). Comments from the crowd ranged from wildly enthusiastic to "well, it's interesting, but it's just not beer." (I recall similar comments a few years ago when Celis White and Celis Grand Cru first appeared.) A certain prominent beer authority well-known to HBD readers but who shall remain nameless suggested that while the beer was technically OK, the razzberry flavor was a bit too much as it overwhelmed the nuances present in the wit. For me, it's a good tasting, well-made beer that's a nice change of pace. It certainly won't be keeping Frank Boone up nights worrying, but considering that it will probably cost about $6 a six pack and will be available fresh, it's worth a try. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 1994 10:23:01 --300 From: gilad at orbotech.co.il (Gilad Barak) Subject: Brewing supply stores in the bay area Hello all HBD readers and especially those in the bay area, Although I think I thanked every one personally, here is another big THANKS to all who answered my inquiry about bay area brewing supply stores. Some of you asked me to compile the information I got so here it is: The store which appeared in almost all replies and was considered best is: Fermentation Frenzy 991 N. San Antonio Rd. (near the intersection with El Camino Real) Los Altos, CA (415) 949-2739 (this phone also appeared - 941-9289) Well stocked, a good place for information, crowded on Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday, best day - Thursday. Also were mentioned: Beer Makers of America 1040 N. 4th San Jose, CA 408-288-6647 Fermentation Settlement 1211 "c" Kentwood San Jose (one reader said it was Cupertino) The Home Brew Co. 2328 Taraval St. San Fransisco The following were only mentioned as taken from adds in the Celebrator which is a bay area brewing related nagazine. No personal experience was mentioned. Belmont Bucket of Suds 317 Old County Rd 415-637-9884 Berkeley Oak Barrel Winecraft 1443 San Pablo Ave Pleasanton Hoptech 3015 E. Hopyard Rd San Francisco Yeasty Brew Unlimited 338 5th Ave. San Leandro Brewmaster 2315 Verna Court B.R.E.W. 1965 Verna Court (One reader said this address is wrong and that the address is 1965 Marina Blvd) Williams Brewing Co. no address 510-895-2739 San Rafael Great Fermentation of Marin 87 Larkspur Giald Barak gilad at orbotech.co.il Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1554, 10/17/94