HOMEBREW Digest #1566 Mon 31 October 1994

Digest #1565 Digest #1567

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Lauter Tun Out Of Cooler ("Robert W. Mech")
  Wit beer (BrewerLee)
  Sam Houston vs. Sam Adams (BrewerLee)
  Oktoberfest Brew/Recipies/Improvemnts/Specific Gravity (GILBERTG)
  Re: Oldest Barleywine HBD #1565 ("Peter Gothro")
  Uses for hop vines (Mark Evans)
  head retention ("KEVIN A. KUTSKILL")
  Brewferm Kits (Craig Mcpherson)
  BruTemp Digital Temperature Probe (BILL MARKS)
  Found - The perfect pump! (BILL MARKS)
  Filtering problems (BILL MARKS)
  In defence of hardcopy edition (kasperow)
  European suppliers (Lenny Garfinkel)
  Red Wolf (Btalk)
  HBD hardcopy (BrewerLee)
  HBD Hardcopy (BrewerLee)
  stoves,UPS,PT wood and hardcopies (Bob Adamczyk ph2745)
  Storing hop plugs (James Gallagher)
  Koch again (Michael Sharp)
  Corny Keg Poppet Problem Solved (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Re: Something new? from A-B (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist))
  Re: HBD Hardcopy Edition & Copyright Law (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist))
  Re: Jim Koch's Latest Antics (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist))
  the Philmill?? ("Timothy P. Laatsch)
  Evaporative lager cooling & other horror stories... (pittock)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 29 Oct 1994 04:54:55 -0500 (CDT) From: "Robert W. Mech" <rwmech at eagle.ais.net> Subject: Lauter Tun Out Of Cooler Greetings Folks. Recently Ive wanted to start going all grain. Im not even NEAR an expert in this field. Thus ive done some reading and such and found that Lauter Tun's can be made from a cooler. (No surprise, you all knew that right?). Ok, let me get to the point here. Saving money for *ME* was the key to going all grain, I didnt want to spend a fortune again (not that I havent already) to go all grain. So I found some intresting parts that I thought were inexpensive that I would share with those of you thinking of making your own lauter tun with a cooler. The first part was called an "Easy Masher", they have this at Alternative Garden Supply (No Sales plug intended). Im sure other beer stores will carry it also. It comes complete with a copper spigot and a 6" copper tube with mesh over it for inside the cooler. It was retail for $20. So basicly, instant lauter ton for $20 and a cooler. However I found they they also sell a "Sprayer" for $15. What this does simply is when sparging with water, you can more evenly disperse it with this rotating shaft (Looks like a sprinkler) which rotates around and depenses water throught your cooler. They carried this too at AGS. Any comments from people on the efficency of such device are more than welcome. Im going to put this all together next weekend, and see how well it works out. Either way I thought that this was one of the least expensive ways to get my own lauter tun. If somone has other inexpensive ideas of making one. Please let me know. Somone also mentioned that coolers might melt. Ive got my water heater set for 170F all the time, and its never even gotten my cooler (coleman) soft, Boiling is 220F And it didnt phase it either. Even without "Industrial" on the side. :-) I tested this by just letting boiling water sit in there for about an hour. - ----------------------- As a side note. Does anyone have any inexpensive ways of preparing the grains for lauter tun? Somone said "Use a meat grinder". Other ideas anyone? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 1994 11:44:25 -0400 From: BrewerLee at aol.com Subject: Wit beer Jeff Michalski asks in HBD 1563: > Does anyone have any experience in the cooking/gelatinization > of raw wheat prior to a Wit biere mash? > Is this necessary or will a find grind suffice? > If it is necessary, how is it done? Jeff, This has been answered to death in the past couple of HBD's but I just wanted to tell you myself and save some face! :) I posted that gelatinization was in order for wheat. I wanted to cover my ass for the next time that someone wanted to do a single temp infusion mash and came out with a bucket of goo! Regardless of the type of mash you do, a protein rest is essential to break down the starches in the wheat but you don't want to break down all of them. If you do an infusion mash with a protein rest for 45 minutes at 122 degrees you will break down the starches to the point where you can still lauter but will still get a good color in your beer. Some unconverted starches is what gives the Wit it's characteristic "shimmer". If you are going to do a decoction, then there is no reason not to cook the grains in your first decoction. If you're not, then as long as you get a good grind on the unmalted wheat it shouldn't be a problem. The only other thing to consider here is the oats. I used cut oats and these needed a considerable cooking before they were gelatinized so I cooked up all of the adjuncts together. My feeling was pre-gelatinizing this way I was assured of the gelatinization of all the grains and results would be more easily reproducible (or changed). I'm going to go ahead and post this on the digest as well as long as I'm at it. Hoppy Brewing! (anyone else getting tired of that yet?) :) -Lee C. Bussy BrewerLee at aol.com October 29, 1994 9:46 am Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 1994 11:44:42 -0400 From: BrewerLee at aol.com Subject: Sam Houston vs. Sam Adams Howdy all! Been reading with interest this Jim Koch thing. I had all but blown off all of his past transgressions as the machinations of a spoiled rich kid making a name for himself and I _thought_ he had learned his lesson from the lambasting he has received. Guess not. Here's the solution as I see it. I can't recall the name of the brewery in Texas but what they ought to do is sue *Koch* in a Texas Federal court (I know that seems weird, Texas?Federal?, bear with me) for the right to use the Sam Houston name. On the grounds it's in the public domain for something like that. Here's the explanation (Texans, lower your guns for a moment and read *all* of this before shooting!): There seems to be a mentality in Texas of sovereignty or Nationalism in the Great Nation of Texas that is hard to picture if you've never been there. If the smaller brewery were to sue first in a Texas court be it Federal or not, (perhaps with soft strains of Yellow Rose of Texas playing in the background) they would no doubt fare favorably. Picture this: An older, bearded Texas gentleman in his slow southern way beseeching the no doubt fair judge to allow these poor Texans the right to use their forefather's name on a few lowly bottles of beer that are hardly fair tribute to all the hard work this leader has done for the State of Texas. Now picture the panel of attorneys trying to plead their case to the same judge. Man, would anyone else like to purchase a video of *that* scene? Now, I'm not making fun of Texans here, I just think that their way of doing things sometime are a bit different from the rest of the country. Wouldn't it be great to fight Jim Koch on Texas land? Oh, BTW. (C) Copyright, 1995 by Lee C. Bussy. Permission given to copy and distribute at no cost to the recipient. There, should I add this to all my posts now? -Lee C. Bussy BrewerLee at aol.com October 29, 1994 10:11 am Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 1994 13:53:08 -0400 (EDT) From: GILBERTG at cofc.edu Subject: Oktoberfest Brew/Recipies/Improvemnts/Specific Gravity I am a beginning homebrewer. To give you an idea of where I am the last batch I brewed was an Oktoberfest Brew (the recipe can be found below). Charleston Beer Works Oktoberfest Brew[_not_ tm] Take 1.5 gallons of water and 0.5 pounds of crystal malt in a grain bag and bring it to a boil. Remove the crystal malt grain bag, press, and throw it away (compost it, whatever). Add 6 pounds of amber extract, stir mixture well so that it doesn't stick to the pot. Add 1.5 "bags" of Centennial 9.1% hops pellets in a grain bag. Boil for at least 30 minutes. For the last 2 to 5 minutes add the remaining 0.5 bag of hops pellets (in a grain bag) for aroma. Remove the hops bags and discard. (Toss in your compost pile.) Add wort to 3-3.5 gallons of sanitized cool water in fermenter bucket. Let cool and pitch yeast. My first question is: Where can I find some other recipes that require minimal effort (for the beginner such as me, i. e. no mashing etc.) but not "cookbook it"? If readers are so kind to send them to me privately I'll compile them and repost them once a month (or more often if necessary) to HBD. My second question is: How can I alter recipes to improve them etc. For example how does the boiling time affect the wort. I usually let my wort ferment for a week. If I let it go two will it improve? What about if I bottle immediately after it stops fermenting? Things like that. My last question is: How do I calculate alcohol content from specific gravity? An example would be most helpful for me. Thank you. Feel free to respond via HBD or privately. Thanks again. Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 1994 12:16:00 PST8PDT From: "Peter Gothro" <PGOTHRO at marvin.ag.uidaho.edu> Subject: Re: Oldest Barleywine HBD #1565 In HBD 1565, Jeff Stampes asks about "old" barleywines. Well, I happen to be a proud owner of "Smoking Crater Barleywine", produced in 1987 by my good friend and excellent brewer Dan. What is it like? Well, the last time I had one was in (probably) 1988-1/2 -ish. It was _very_ smooth, good hop flavor/aroma to balance the sturdy (i.e., not 'thick' or 'thin'), sweet chocolate maltiness. I haven't opened my bottle for a couple reasons: it was here on the west coast while I was on the east coast; I wanted to see how it 'aged'; I was waiting for that "special" occasion. FWIW, the last time I had some, it was a good thing I didn't have far to go (but then again, with an OG above 1200, what would you expect?). Mr. Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 1994 16:24:32 -0600 From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans) Subject: Uses for hop vines Here's an idea for those gnarly old hop vines. If you still got 'em, weave them into wreaths--like those grape vine wreaths you see for way too much at gift shops and craft fairs. Then dried herbs and flowers can be inserted for display. For those of us with NBP's (non-brewing partners) this can be a real fringe benefit. My wife--she loves my brew and helps with the brewing on ocassion--was delighted with the vine wreaths and how they turned out. mark evans Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Oct 94 17:51:53 EDT From: "KEVIN A. KUTSKILL" <75233.500 at compuserve.com> Subject: head retention I would like to add to the thanks for the bread recipes utilizing the spent grains--my first passion related to the almighty "yeasties" was making bread. However, on to my purpose of using this space. I have been an extract brewer for 5 years, and have made some fine brews (IMHO). My only recurrent problem has been a poor head on the finished product. The carbonation is good, but the head only lasts for a minute or less. Papazian's TNCJOHB had a troubleshooting section on this, and I followed each recommendation (clean glasses, fresh hops, etc.) to no avail. I heard that all-grain brewing adds some additional proteins that helps in head retention. I have just lagered my first all-grain marzen (I cant wait, I cant wait, I cant wait!), but is there anything else I am missing? TIA for the wisdom I hope will be forthcoming. Kevin Kutskill, 75233.500 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 1994 21:54:57 -0400 (EDT) From: Craig Mcpherson <craigm at helios.cae.ca> Subject: Brewferm Kits After reading of Sam's experience brewing with Brewferm Kits (he tried the Kriek kit) it reminded me of my own experiences using those Belgian products. On two occasions I have brewed their wheat beer kit, each time using two cans plus 500g of clover honey. Each time I subjected them to a somewhat quick boil (around 15 min), adding the honey right at the end just before shutting off the heat. In both instances I ended up with a highly enjoyable blond beer. Early on the honey flavor tends to be apparent, however after letting the beer age in the bottles for several months, "lactic" notes take on a stronger presence and the honey fades into the background. I'm most curious about whatever advice Sam recieved concerning the length of boil of these Brewferm kits, however. This because back in August I made a batch of their Jubilee Herb Beer. This seems to be a fairly new kit that they've brought on the market and I became curious. Desirous to see what "herbs" they put in it, I made the kit "straight", using two cans and zero sugar except for bottling. I wonder about the boil and whatever factors that may have had on the end result, however. I ended up with what is a very pleasant beer with a good head resembling an English bitter or lighter variety pale ale (basically, it's a light brown color as opposed to the more reddish pale ales). It's in its prime right about now, although, as I've noticed with Brewferm kits, seems to keep well and get progressivly better with time. What herbs may have been added is another story. Either I somehow boiled them off in my usual 15-20 minute boil, or they've used them most sparingly. I don't even know if, in this style of beer, the herbal flavors are supposed to be dominant or apparent. However at most I seem to have been able to detect, on occasion, orangy notes. For the balance it tastes pretty much like a British bitter (mild). What gives? I used their kit straight, and instead of the yeast that came with the cans, I used the newer Red Star yeast which gave me a good long and thorough fermentation. craigm at helios.cae.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 94 20:54:00 -0400 From: bill.marks at nccbbs.com (BILL MARKS) Subject: BruTemp Digital Temperature Probe Last month I bought a brewprobe(tm) and printed circuit board to build a digital thermometer called a BruProbe(tm) from JB Distributing in Hollis, NH. (603) 465-7633. The cost of the probe and circuit board was $40 but each can be purchased separately. The probe is a 3 foot long sturdy brass rod with an embedded solid state, fast responding, temperature sensor in the end. The printed circuit board is a professional piece of work with neat traces and each component location silk-screened on the component side. A list of the components to populate the board are provided along with extensive illustrated construction and calibration instructions. The parts are all available from DIGIKEY Catalog sales. DIGIKEY will accept a fax of the parts list and a credit card number and provide "next day service". They were out of one 100K potentiometer so I installed a 200K pot and the digital thermometer worked perfectly. Well, nearly perfectly. I had made a solder bridge between two traces and couldn't find it. Joe Brulotte of JB Distributing and Bob Mcilvaine, the inventer of the BruTemp digital thermometer was a GREAT help in locating the bridge I had made and correcting the problem. Once the BruTemp was up and running I could consistently put it in in ice water and get 32^F+/-0.1^F. All other temps compare very well to a lab quality mercury in glass analog thermometer. Repeatability and fast response were what I needed to sort out what I had suspected was a large temperature gradient in my mash. I found as much as a 30^F gradient as I raised the temperature from the 122^F protein rest to saccrification temperature. The gradient persistent to mashout. Analog thermometers weren't fast enough and weren't adaptable to a simple rig to go back and read exactly the same spot time after time. A 3 foot probe is perfect. Since obtaining my 3D temperature profile of my mash tun, I have started changing the discharge pattern of my recirculation system. I haven't gotten the gradient whipped yet but I have it down to 8^F. I have no financial or other interest in JB Distributing. I am just an appreciative, satisfied customer. Bill Bill.Marks at NCCBBS.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 94 21:23:00 -0400 From: bill.marks at nccbbs.com (BILL MARKS) Subject: Found - The perfect pump! The search for the perfect pump is over! I found the following pump in Benny's Auto Stores here in Rhode Island and was so pleased with it I thought I would pass on the specs and manufacturer: The pump is a heavy plastic, rotary vane type pump that will put out 1000 gph at no head and has a 99 ft shut off head (44 psi). It has standard garden hose fittings on the suction and discharge and a suction line removable 50 mesh filter. The temperature range is 35 to 220^F!!!. The pump is the size of your fist and has a shaft that fits in a drill motor. You had better get a pretty hefty drill though because it requires a 1/4 to 1/3 hp motor at full load. I brought a 3/8" brand new Black and Decker drill to its knees trying to pump beer with a 35 psi delta P through a 0.5 micron filter. The pump come with a complete overhaul kit to be used after 500,000 gallons or 500 hours of operation. It will run dry as a 2.8 psi (at 4000 RPM) air compressor for 15 minutes. If the pump goes TU, the mfgr will rebuild or replace it for $6 <-- that's SIX DOLLARS. The pump specs say it will draw a 18" suction but I have actually gotten it to draw 36". The recommended cleaning procedure is to pump hot water through the pump. So how much for this miracle pump you say? I paid $22.00 off of the shelf. The data sheet say the pump is distributed by: MATEX Gear and Pump Company 518 Greystone TR., NE Marietta, GA 30068 (404) 565-4230 (404) 971-5539 I have no financial or other interest in MATEX. Bill Bill.Marks at NCCBBS.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 94 21:34:00 -0400 From: bill.marks at nccbbs.com (BILL MARKS) Subject: Filtering problems I recently bought the 0.5 micron filter system from The Filter Store. It produces absolutely clear beer, free of chill haze, exactly as advertised. My problem is one of rate. I chill to 35^f and then pressurize the corny keg to blow the beer through the filter into a waiting, vented, purged, clean keg. The first two quarts or so transfer right over at a reasonable rate - not as fast as one would fill a glass from the tap but about a quart a minute. Then the rate drops to about zero and even with a differential pressure of 35 psi - virtually nothing. I back flush the filter, which cost a quart of beer, and the rate picks up slightly. After 1/2 hour of back flushing, I am set for a new two quart cycle. Any ideas of what I am doing wrong or is this normal with so fine a filter? Post here or private e-mail and I'll summarize and repost. Bill Bill.marks at NCCBBS.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 01:21:55 -0500 From: kasperow at husc.harvard.edu Subject: In defence of hardcopy edition I, too, was concerned about someone profitting from publishing the HBD in hardcopy form. I sent email to clayglen at netcom.com (Clay Glenn) notifying him that I hold implicit copyrights to my postings (which are admittedly few and far between). I notified him that he can publish my postings if and only if he is not making a profit on them; if he is making a profit through this venture, I told him he would have to contact me to negotiate fair compensation. In his response, he assured me that he is simply a relatively new brewer who found the HBD to be an excellent source of information. He wants to share this source with other novices who do not have access to the electronic edition of HBD. He implied that his intent is not to make a profit; he hopes only that his effort can pay for itself, and not be a money drain for him. He stated that when a post does contain an explicit copyright notice, he will contact the author for permission to publish it or exclude the post from the hardcopy edition. Doesn't sound so bad after all. I wish him good luck. - -- Rich Kasperowski work: richk at icad.com 617-868-2800 ext. 304 - -- school: kasperow at husc.harvard.edu - -- home: 617-492-5464 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 12:51:05 +0200 (IST) From: Lenny Garfinkel <lenny at zeus.datasrv.co.il> Subject: European suppliers Hi, all. I am in the rather difficult position of brewing beer in a country where brewing supplies are not available. So, I depend on supplies which I bring from the US when visiting. This is not dependable so I have begun mail ordering from the US (very, very expensive). Could anyone send me any of the following: 1. The addresses of homebrew suppliers in the UK. Maybe shipping charges would be lower from the UK. 2. The address of Munton and Fison in the UK. Maybe I can appeal to them to sell me DME wholesale, in which case, well the shipping is steep, but the overall price is right. 3. The address of Laaglander in the Netherlands (makers of DME) for the same reasons as in (2). I can get DME for $2.5/lb but when you add shipping charges of about $2.30/lb, homebrew becomes very expensive. If you want to do all-grain, it's even more absurd. $1.50/lb for grain and $2.30 for shipping. Thanks for your help. If you have any innovative solutions to this dilemma, I'm all ears. Lenny Garfinkel Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 08:46:28 -0500 From: Btalk at aol.com Subject: Red Wolf Red Wolf by A-B was being offered at a beer fest I went to last night. It is a *red *lager made with roasted malt. IMHO, nothing special. Red Bud? Regards, Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton, NY<btalk at aol.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 10:27:00 -0500 From: BrewerLee at aol.com Subject: HBD hardcopy cancel article Oct29,16:44,6346 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 10:27:26 -0500 From: BrewerLee at aol.com Subject: HBD Hardcopy Brewers, I received e-mail from Mr Glenn about his proposed project. He, on the basis of our objections, agrees to drop the project immediately. I do think however that we all misunderstood each other so let me post a portion of his message to me: > Actually it started as a project at the local level. Some of my > fellow homebrewers got to talking about how great the HBD is, > and that it would be great if we could make it accessible to more > of the club members. I volunteered to take on the task on and > see if I could come up with something manageable and useful. > The end result was pretty impressive, but printing costs for > five copies were pretty high. Thinking that others could benefit > from it as well, and maybe we could all get the cost down.... > Well you can figure out how it went from there. As you can see, he's not the big bad publisher that come to gobble up our thoughts that we thought he was. We all misunderstood each other and now it's over and we all understand I hope. Now. it may sound like I'm not mad about it. Belive me I was hot. I'm just convinced now that he is a reasonable man and that he will honor our wishes. He also expressed a concern that this interrupted the flow of the Digest and wanted it to get back to normal. Let's do that. Now, back to our regularly scheduled program. :) Hoppy Brewing Steve! -Lee C. Bussy BrewerLee at aol.com October 30, 1994 10:21 am Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 94 10:38:09 EST From: adamczyk at bns101.bng.ge.com (Bob Adamczyk ph2745) Subject: stoves,UPS,PT wood and hardcopies I have to do this because: (1) I can't stand it any more. (2) I just can't stand it any more. Will all the owners of dirty stoves please take some highly caustic compound, mix it with pressure treated wood sawdust, clean their stoves thoroughly, bottle the residue, and send it (via UPS, even if it has fermented) to the guy who wants to SELL hardcopy versions of HBD. I can't see how anyone would want to pay real money for this kind of excessive drivel when they could spend it on decent leaf hops and good imported malt !! --- Please, advice is good and discussion is better, but sometimes we do tend to drag this stuff around for too long. My apologies, but now I feel much better !!! It's time to get back to serious brewing and drinking of the results. (yes, I KNOW you could have roasted a ton of barley on this flame) Bob Adamczyk Beartown Bitter (and the occasional Black Bear Stout) Port Crane, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 94 10:51:15 EST From: jimg at dcz.gso.uri.edu (James Gallagher) Subject: Storing hop plugs Is there any consensus on how long you can store hop plugs (sealed, in a freezer) before they need to be tossed? If they loose potency, is there a way to compensate by adding more? There was an article about hop storage in a past Brewing Tech, but if I remember correctly it was talking about loose whole hops, not plugs. - -- James Gallagher jimg at dcz.gso.uri.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 94 8:57:03 PST From: msharp at Synopsys.COM (Michael Sharp) Subject: Koch again Yesterday's HBD brought us lots of info on what Jim(TM) Koch(TM) has been up to: > Think that's bad enough? How about the BBC's "intent to use" > registration on "Great American Beer Judging" (filed 10-19-93, > #74-450,324)? I guess we should have expected as much from > "America's Microbrewery" (BBC intent to use this name filed > November 1992). I was just sitting here wondering if Great American Theme Parks (Paramount) would be interested in harassing Jim over "Great American Beer Juding". It would be _REALLY_ nice to see him on the receiving end. --Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 94 10:13:46 PST From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Corny Keg Poppet Problem Solved A while back someone posted a query about a Corny keg poppet that would not stay closed when the quick disconnect was removed. It would kind of fall into the valve body. Also, when tightening the valve body onto the keg fitting, the valve body would bottom out before becoming tight on the rubber gasket. At the time, I not only did not have the solution, but shared the problem. After close inspection, I have a solution. With my kegs, I have at least two kinds of dip tubes. Some have a very narrow straight shoulder, and the others have a wide, kind of curved, rolled shoulder. The valve body in question would not tighten down properly when put on the dip tube with wide shoulder. It would, however, fit perfectly (i.e. begin to snug up against rubber a couple of threads from the end of the threads) if I put it on the narrow shoulder dip tube. Taking both dip tubes off and very carefully observing how they fit into the valve body, I noticed that the dip tube with wide shoulder would not push as far into the valve body as the narrow shoulder dip tube. I proceeded to grind just a skosh off the wide shoulder until it fit down into the valve body completely. When I put it back onto the keg, it snugged against the washer before bottoming out on the threads. So there are two solutions to this problem. Move those valve bodies to narrow shoulder dip tubes, or grind down your wide shoulder dip tubes. There are evidently at least two inside diameters of valve bodies just under where the legs of the poppet come to. dion Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 11:40:16 -0700 (MST) From: walter at lamar.ColoState.EDU (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist)) Subject: Re: Something new? from A-B > I saw a commercial on TV last night for a new beer from A-B > called Red Wolf (as I remember). It was reddish in color with > a Wolf on the label. Now, does anyone know if is this a decent > product from an A-B aquisition or is it just a marketing gimmic > to sell Bud with a squirt of food coloring in it. It is Bud's answer to Coors Killians Red. So, the food coloring scenario is probably correct. In any case, AB is brewing it themselves. Brian J Walter Chemistry Graduate Student walter at lamar.colostate.edu RUSH Rocks Best Homebrewer/Beer Geek Go Pack! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 11:59:53 -0700 (MST) From: walter at lamar.ColoState.EDU (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist)) Subject: Re: HBD Hardcopy Edition & Copyright Law > "Cyber Age Publishing is an Internet access provider with a twist. " > > Bull. You're taking the work of others, printing it, retailing it without > first getting releases from the authors, and claiming credit while having > added absolutely no value whatsoever. > > If I find you publishing or selling anything I have said without having > first arranged it with me in writing, I will sue you into the ground. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Well, it seems we have a budding Jim Koch ;^> That said, I do think that selling the HBD is completely wrong. And the ad seemed to imply that other useful documents would be included also; could he be talking FAQ's and such? - --bjw Brian J Walter Chemistry Graduate Student walter at lamar.colostate.edu RUSH Rocks Best Homebrewer/Beer Geek Go Pack! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 12:08:14 -0700 (MST) From: walter at lamar.ColoState.EDU (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist)) Subject: Re: Jim Koch's Latest Antics Howdy, And add to Louis Bonham's exhaustive list of BBC BullSh*t the fact that he has trademarked, (or at least claimed to), the phrase "Just Brew It". A local homebrew shop, named The Brew-It Company was using this phrase in some ads in local Brewspapers and was contacted by Jim Kock (sp? ;^) telling them they could not use the phrase as the BBC had rights to it. They have Nike rip off shirts which sport this phrase. - --bjw Brian J Walter Chemistry Graduate Student walter at lamar.colostate.edu RUSH Rocks Best Homebrewer/Beer Geek Go Pack! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 16:19:16 -0500 (EST) From: "NAME SEAN O'KEEFE, IFAS FOOD SCIENCE" <SFO at gnv.ifas.ufl.edu> Subject: Red WOOF Lager Chuck asked about Red Wolf Lager. Well, I'll admit that I broke down and actually purchased a 6-pak of the stuff. Curiosity & all. Well I have 5 left and poured 90% of the first down the drain. If you knew me, you'd realize what this means. I didn't think that it had ANY LAGER character whatsoever. It just tasted like Bud, concentrated 25%. If you want the rest of the 6 I still have em. If I could only EMAIL liquid.... Concerning SMM breakdown during the boil: Will it all eventually break down to DMS, which is boiled off? How fast does the cooling after the boil have to be? I made a lager with 90min boil but cooled overnight at 36C and found an unpleasant flavor I assume is DMS (from flavor descriptions). If I boil longer and cool the same way will I avoid DMS? I really prefer hops or malt flavor to cooked corn.... Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 19:23:24 -0400 (EDT) From: "Timothy P. Laatsch <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu>" <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu> Subject: the Philmill?? Hey HBers, I recently received a catalog from Brewer's Resource. They sell a grain mill called the "Philmill" that they describe as follows: "Using a single knurled roller that crushes malt against an adjustable surface, the Philmill produces a grist of very good quality. We've found the Philmill to be particularly easy on husks, leaving then whole and fluffy, promoting efficient runoff. *Cranking is slightly stiff* but the handle is reversible for left-handed brewers." Apparently, you have to supply your own hopper from an inverted 2-liter bottle with the bottom cut out. I obviously have no financial interest in this company, just a consumer interest in their product. Does anyone out there have this mill and is it any different/better/worse than the famous Maltmill or Glattmill? The asking price is $74.95----this is cheaper than the Maltmill, but I don't know if the performance is comparable. TIA for any help. Tim PS I received many varied and useful responses to my all-grain questions. There were far too many eclectic ideas to summarize the information, but if any other all-grain newbies are interested, I can compile all the responses and send you the big bad all-grain info file. I tried to personally thank all respondents, but another hearty thanks is in order. so....THANKS! bye. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 1994 13:16:52 +1000 From: pittock at rsbs-central.anu.edu.au Subject: Evaporative lager cooling & other horror stories... Today I am passing on a story about what I thought was a good idea at the time, but was instead potentially a disastrous move, endangering the life of my all-grain IPA. Once upon a time...with the daytime temperatures getting into the low-mid 20s (C), I thought that wrapping my primary with a damp towel would provide the cooling required to keep the lager yeasties (WYeast 2112) comfortably cool. This was in fact true - a good even 16 deg C was easy! HOWEVER! It came to racking to the secondary during the w/end just past - simple enough, done it many times before...[cue the shlock-horror tension music]...I unwrap the fermenter to find...a veritable rainbow of fungi growing all over the fermenter, including the outside of the seal and around the tap...red ones, green ones, yellow ones, white ones... After much throwing around of bleach, I proceeded... To rack and ruin?! Time will tell... \\|// . o ____________ Chris Pittock 06)2495099 o- at at -o O ( Yeast, hop ) pittock at rsbs0.anu.edu.au | U | () ( & charity... ) PO Box 475 Canberra City { - } (____________) ACT 2601 Australia. /|\ Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1566, 10/31/94