HOMEBREW Digest #1579 Tue 15 November 1994

Digest #1578 Digest #1580

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  coriander (Btalk)
  counterpressure pressure (Btalk)
  Fix's 40/60/70 mash schedule (Patrick Casey)
  Thanks - IPA Hops (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132)
  Red Dog, PET bottles, La Maudite (Alan_Marshall)
  molasses usage (James Gallagher)
  two dumb questions-pet & coriander (RONALD DWELLE)
  Lager Yeast Starter Question ("Palmer.John")
  Brewpub Location (Big Dog Brewing)
  motoring a mill (Jay Weissler)
  Coriander (Mark Worwetz)
  RE:Best Location for  a brewery = ????? (Jim Busch)
  Re: Conditioning with New Yeast (John DeCarlo              )
  15 gallon brew system (JSTONE)
  TSP (Douglas R. Jones)
  Pete's WWB (JSTONE)
  Re: Master Judge is Stumped! (Chuck Cox)
  Yeast side effects (michael j dix)
  Coriander:  Let's hear more ("Jeff M. Michalski, MD")
  culturing Wyeast Bavarian Weizen (Dan Sherman)
  amylases (HOMEBRE973)
  Spirit of Belgium (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Broken Bottles/Soda Kegs (Jeff Wade)
  RE: Yeast Lab "European Lager." (uswlsrap)
  DME for priming ("Mark A. Melton")
  irc tasting (Jim Doyle)
  new bench capper (DONBREW)
  Alcohol Content ("Chris Cesar")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 08:44:34 -0500 From: Btalk at aol.com Subject: coriander Coriander is the seed from the Cilantro plant. Coriander is round and roughly the size of a pea. Speaking of 'secret' ingredients... If you make your own Salsa, add some fresh Cilantro. Regards, Bob Talkiewicz<btalk at aol.com> disoriented in Binghamton, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 08:44:36 -0500 From: Btalk at aol.com Subject: counterpressure pressure I've had good luck with everything at 15 psi and bottle at this pressure. My home made CP filler is the three valve design and I control fill rate with the 'exhaust 'valve. Coldness is important. Below 35F works for me. COunterpressure bottling is a minor hassle. I only do a few ie for contests, but it still beats filling 60 or so bottles. regards, Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton, NY<btalk at aol.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 09:10:55 EST From: pacasey at lexmark.com (Patrick Casey) Subject: Fix's 40/60/70 mash schedule I'd like to try this mash schedule, but would like to know if this leads to a more dextrinous, sweeter beer, or a more highly fermentable, drier beer. The final rest at 70C tells me it'll be dextrinous, but perhaps the 60C rest combined with the relative thinnness of the mash (I think he calls for about 1.5 quarts water per lb. grain by the time you're at the 40C rest), will cause it to be highly fermentable... Any ideas? Thanks! - Patrick Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Nov 94 14:13:00 GMT From: mlm01 at intgp1.att.com (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132) Subject: Thanks - IPA Hops I would like to thank everyone for their responses to my Hops question. I recently sent out a request for advice in hopping an India Pale Ale. The response was overwhelming. I received about 13 responses. The underlying message was that I should have used English hops in an English beer. I received many responses that maybe the AHA needs to recognize a new style, American IPA. Afterall, there are only 2 IPAs in existence in England of which the O.G. is ~1.040. The United States has several great examples of the style, with American Hops. Another comment was that the original IPAs used significant quantities of imported hops, including Californian (go figure). Anyway, I have another IPA in the secondary, this one I used all English Hops and the same recipe as the American IPA. It will be interesting to see the comparison of remarks on the two beers. Thanks to all that responded. Mike Montgomery mlm01 at intgp1.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 09:52:02 -0500 (EST) From: Alan_Marshall <AK200032 at Sol.YorkU.CA> Subject: Red Dog, PET bottles, La Maudite In HBD #1578, Greg Niznik <GENIZN01 at ULKYVM.LOUISVILLE.EDU> writes > Subject: RED DOG > > I saw a commercial on tv last night for RED DOG. I tried the Canadian > version of this beer last summer and loved it (BTW, they ran the same > commercial for it here in Kentucky as they did in Toronto last year). > Has anyone tried it here in the US who has also tried the original > Canadian version? Is it the same thing or a watered down version? There is really no reason to water it down since normal beer is the same strength in Canada and the U.S., about 4.0% abw (U.S.) or 5.0% abv (Canada) Red Dog is 5.5%, so for *some* states it might have to be relabelled or watered down to meet arcane laws. BTW, Red Dog falls between Molson's regular swill and their all-malt Signature Series beers in terms of quality. In otherwords, okay, but nothing still not worth buying. They are calling it an alt beer, despite being a blend of ale and lager. The use of the word "alt" is due to it's marketing campaign showing a belligerent bulldog "being his own dog" One suspects that if Molson could get away with having the dog defecate or urinate, they'd go for it. Also, today is election day in Toronto. The Red Dog billboards in Toronto have had Ed the Sock (a likewise belligerent puppet from a local cable show who is running a write-in campaign for Mayor) beside the Red Dog, saying some thing like "Tell the politians to stuff it." I suggest this might be better discussed in alt.beer or rec.food.drink.beer **** Matthew Sendbuehler <sendbu at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca> writes: > Subject: Three testimonials: PET bottles, coriander, yeast > > > In response to recent discussions, I'd like to add a few > data points: <Testimonial about PET bottles snipped> I second this with two additional data points: 1. IMHO, the best packaged commercial ales on Ontario are those by Wellington, which bottles exclusively in brown 1 litre PET bottles. They do suggest a rather short shelve-life, however (about 4-6 weeks, I think.) 2. The best homebrew I ever enjoyed was Carlo Fusco's American IPA, also packaged in a 1 litre PET bottle. I think he told me that they are not impermeable to oxygen, and he wouldn't put a "laying down beer", like a barley wine, in them. Then Matt writes about Maudite's yeast (also snipped) > This was a batch split between this yeast and generic > dry ale yeast, and the Maudite (trans: Damn!) yeast IMHO > elevated the brew from ordinary to delicious. Get your hands Actually, La Maudite tranlates to "The Damned" and is based on a legend of some Quebec voyageurs retruning from Lake Athabaska (in Alberta) concerned that they would not reach Montreal before the freeze-up. They made a deal with the Devil for their quick and safe return and became "La Maudite" or "The Damned". La Maudite is modelled on Belgium's "Lucifer" beer and is 8%, not the 9% Matt reported, unless changed in the past year. Unibroue's consulting brewer is Pierre Celis. Alan (ak200032 at sol.yorku.ca) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 10:03:22 EST From: jimg at dcz.gso.uri.edu (James Gallagher) Subject: molasses usage I missed the early part of the current molasses discussion, but I've been thinking about adding some to a pale ale receipt. How much molasses do other brewers use? Which brands of molasses are best? Which are OK? Suppose a brewer wanted to make a Bass clone using malt and molasses (as opposed to malt and brown sugar), how much molasses would give a `Bass flavor'? - -- James Gallagher jimg at dcz.gso.uri.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 10:15:55 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: two dumb questions-pet & coriander I never brewed me no coriander, so stopped in the store this morning to buy some. They have "leaf" and "seed." Same? Which for brewing? Is the end of full-flatulence in sight? What's PET? Are these your standard Coke plastic bottles re-used? Do you re-use the Coke caps? I'd like to do some plastic, since my homebrew likes to go sailing with me and the glass bottles get banged around and break just often enough to create these huge yeast cultures in the bilge. (Anybody got a technique for brewing while on a voyage?) Ron Dwelle (dweller at gvsu.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Nov 1994 07:51:08 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Lager Yeast Starter Question Hi Group, I am currently fermenting a Graf-style Vienna from Doc Fix's book and I used Wyeast Bohemian lager. I made up a one quart yeast starter (2 1pt additions) and did it at room temp over about 4 days. (This is my first ever lager.) My question is: 1a. Should I have made that yeast starter at my Fermenting Temperature of 48F instead of 68F? 1b. Do the yeast mutate themselves to the higher temperature conditions of the starter? 1c. Will my yeast go thru temp shock or will they be innured to that because they have supposedly undergone post-krausen hibernation? John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com Huntington Beach, California *Brewing is Fun* Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 09:16:39 -0700 (MST) From: Big Dog Brewing <mcastlem at carbon.denver.colorado.edu> Subject: Brewpub Location I will start first with where you should not have a brewpub. As much as it pians me to say it, DO NOT COME TO COLORADO. We have some sort of brewery on every flat piece of ground and some of the less steep mountains. I fear that the night of the long knives will be coming to the CO brewing industry soon. As to a positive location; I would recommend the Minneapolis/St Paul area. As of now there are only 2 brewpubs and 2 micros in a metro area of almost 3 million people. There is a strong German/Scandanavian beer culture and a growing, young, population. I know that when I lived there I wished that there was more variety. My 1s 6d worth (inflation you know). Mark W Castleman Big Dog Brewing Cooperative - West This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord has intended a more glorious form of consumption. So let us give praise to our maker and glory to his name by learning about beer. --Friar Tuck Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 10:16:04 -0600 From: jay_weissler at il.us.swissbank.com (Jay Weissler) Subject: motoring a mill Thanks to all who responded to the motoring a JS maltmill question. Judging by the response rate, Jack must have sold a million of these. Several people pointed out that whatever you do, be careful. A motorized mill is potentially dangerous as is the motor, any drive belts etc. You're at risk, be careful, etc. Now the suggestions (names left off to protect the innocent): 1) Get off your fat butt and crank the damn thing. You spend too much time drinking beer, get some exercise... OOPs that was my conscious...Think we can safely ignore that. 2) Use a standard 1/3 to 1/2 hp 1725 rpm electric motor with 3" & 12" pulleys to gear it down to about 400 rpm (or go a little slower). These can often be scavenged from washers and other appliances. 3) Use a gear motor with about 30-40 ft/lbs torque and 1 to 1 gearing. 4) Chuck a cheap electric drill directly to the mill and tie the drill down so that the roller spins instead of the drill. 5) Use any size motor (geared to turn the mill at about 300-400 rpm) and feed the grain slower if the motor is small. Thanks again to all who responded. jayw Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 09:36:09 -0700 (MST) From: Mark_Worwetz at Novell.COM (Mark Worwetz) Subject: Coriander Howdy All! OK, I'm hooked! Several of you have been talking about the miraculous effects of coriander in beer lately, and I have noticed one little point that needs to be clarified. HOW MUCH TO USE?!! How much for clear, clean, anti-flatulent beer? How much more for orange flavored, increased sex-drive ;-) brew? I am going to brew my Holiday Ale this week and this sounds like a great addition. Private or public resonses welcome, copyright notices are not! TIA, TTFN, RDWHAHB, CYA, etc! Mark_Worwetz at Novell.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 11:59:51 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: RE:Best Location for a brewery = ????? Nimbus writes: <I'm in the awesome position, if things go as planned, of needing to choose a location for a small brewery. Awesome is an interesting choice of words. <Production will be about 2000 barrels/year. Hummm, you already know your production level and you havent even selected a site yet? This reveals impressive foresight and a keen proximity to the gods. <We want to avoid big cities, as they'll have higher costs and more <regulations/taxes/red-tape. Thats right, you wouldnt want to locate in a well populated area, it may result in too many customers. Very bad for buisness. <We'd like to open in a bit over a year. As someone who has spent considerable time researching the market, and as a brewery investor, I'll make one constructive comment. You should be prepared for a time consuming effort that will have little to no chance of being open within one to one and a half years. Good luck, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 12:49:57 EST From: John DeCarlo <jdecarlo at homebrew.mitre.org> Subject: Re: Conditioning with New Yeast >I'm getting ready to bottle a sparkling mead that has been sitting in a >carboy for about three months. I'm planning to use a liquid champagne >yeast to condition it. Well, I'm no expert, but I fermented/conditioned my mead in various fermenters for about 14 months. I bottled and added 1 cup of honey for priming. (OK, that was too much, but not wildly too much--I just have to pour three times to fill a glass.) Each bottle was carbonated in a couple of weeks and tasting very nice. The long aging in the fermenters made a big difference in flavor and clarity. Yet I didn't add any yeast at bottling time, just what was left after 14 months. Worked great. May be worth trying. YMMV IMNSHO. Merry Meading! John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 09:13:23 PST From: JSTONE at SJEVM5.VNET.IBM.COM Subject: 15 gallon brew system Cliff, I don't qualify as a "brewer with experience in these types of brewing systems", actually, I'm just about where you're at. I'm expecting my 15 G SS Vollrath pots this week. The 15 G pot which serves as a sparge vessel has two SS welds: one 0.5" NPT to accept a thermowell with thermistor/I.C. sensor; and a 1" NPSM weld to accept a 1500 W/120 V hot water heater element. The system is built around a PC with an analog/digital IO card. The PC will (hopefully) monitor and control all temperatures (sparge and mash) and the flow of water/wort [sparge-to-mash, mash-to-mash (recirculating path) and mash-to-boil]. I plan on feeding the thermistor/I.C. sensor information to the PC and using the PC to control the hot water heater element via a solid state relay. Of course, not everyone is crazy enough to introduce a PC into their brewing systems. Solid state relays in the 15 - 18 A range are expensive (~$20). I chose to mount them on rather large heat sinks (also very expensive). I talked with a number of other brewers regarding sparge water control. The most common techniques include, A Rodney Morris type controller. A bimetal thermostat mounted (or threaded) into the side of the sparge vessel. A SS version is available from Grainger for ~$70. I believe the accuracy is +- 1 oF. I'm sure this is overkill and less expensive thermostats are available. Both techniques involve the off-the-shelf hot water heater element. I hope to have my system up and running by Thanksgiving. I would like to append a description of the system, once I've had a chance to brew a few batches with it. Joe P.S. I'm still looking for inexpensive solenoid valves. The only alternative I've considered is a stepper (or geared) motor mounted on top of an existing SS ball valve. This could be considered a proportioning valve (available through Omega for as little as $895 ... what a deal). Does anyone have any experience mounting a motor on a ball valve? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 11:58:42 CST From: djones at iex.com (Douglas R. Jones) Subject: TSP With all the discussion of TSP lately I'll toss in a couple of cents worth. I am not a chemist (nor do I play one on TV) but wall cleaner seems to me that wall cleaner probably won't make a cleaner worth having. I believe we had a post lately about white film being left. I use Chlorinated TSP from _The Home Brewery_ (no affiliation) and have had great success with it. Another brewer I know leaves his bottles for very extended periods of time in this. (A trash can full of strong solution). With the chlorine in it is DOES act as a sanitizer (though I am too paranoid for this so my bottles also get a iodophor soak). Bottom line is, until I hear from a chemist that wall cleaner if OK for food grade products (bottles etc) then I am sticking to something *I* know is OK. Doug - ------------------------------------------------------- 'I am a traveler of | Douglas R. Jones both Time and Space' | IEX Corporation Led Zeppelin | (214)301-1307 | djones at iex.com - ------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 09:50:53 PST From: JSTONE at SJEVM5.VNET.IBM.COM Subject: Pete's WWB I seem to recall that last year, the homebrewer's name WAS on the neck of the Pete's Wicked Winter Brew bottle. I'm not sure where it went this year. I enjoy a bottle of WWB. My significant other LOVES it! And I find that the more she enjoys beer (of any kind), the more tolerant she is of my brewing. ;*) Joe Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 12:31:18 EST From: chuck at synchro.com (Chuck Cox) Subject: Re: Master Judge is Stumped! The cat is out of the bag and it's my own damn fault. Coriander has long been the secret ingredient in all of my beers, so secret that I never included it in any of my written recipes. As you might guess, I was a victim of my own paranoia, and simply forgot to add it to the latest batch of Oktoberfest. I know that coriander has long been the secret weapon of a handful of top brewers, but that article in Zymurgy has really ruined it for the brewing elite. In order to fix my Oktoberfest, I made up a coriander tea and added it to the keg. Amazingly, all the problems disappeared overnight! Unfortunately, I think I overcompensated; the Oktoberfest is so malty it tastes more like a Bock, and my sex drive has returned with such voracity that all the ewes eye me suspiciously and keep their backsides pointed away from me. - -- Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> SynchroSystems / Riverside Garage & Brewery - Cambridge, Mass. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 11:22:18 "PST From: michael j dix <mdix at dcssc.sj.hp.com> Subject: Yeast side effects I thought this was so obvious that some one else would bring it up: If I drink my beer too green (tasting after siphoning, or checking how aging is coming along), I find that while the beer is delicious, it has a powerful evacuative effect. I attribute this to mass quantities of yeast in suspension. Try a little kaopectate and let the yeast settle out. Mike Dix Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 11:23:12 -0800 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: Mega-brewing for fun (no profit) Well, now I know what I want for Christmas... My first experience with the Impaling Alers 55 gallon brewery is now history, and I now wish to bore you to tears with the story. Larry, of Larry's Warehouse and Brewing Supply, is an inveterate tinkerer. He loves to weld, especially if he has a purpose in mind. I don't know where he got the 55 gallon stainless steel drum, but the former wine storage tank is now a kettle. He cut off the top, attached handles, and welded a 1 inch threaded fitting to the side near the bottom. The threads fit at both sides, allowing the mother of all hop backs to be inside the kettle, and a fire hose sized attachment with valve for the outside. This sucker is big. Well, not quite big enough for a real commercial brewery, but plenty damn big. In a commercial kettle, I imagine that the workers must be lowered inside of it to clean it. I couldn't fit, but I did lay the durn thing on it's side when I cleaned it. Swallowed me up too... The heat source is a former house furnace, with a 10 gallon propane tank for fuel source. It made my garage nice and toasty. This combination boiled 20 gallons of water in 60 minutes, and 40 gallons in 100 minutes. I had been warned that this thing would take all day to operate. In fact, I found that we had erred on the side of too long a time for an estimate of how long it would take. There were times when hot water was ready, and we weren't ready for its use. How did we store the water? That's a tun question. The recipe that I created called for 74 lbs of pale ale malt (54 lbs of Gambrinus and 20 lbs of DeWolf-Cosyns Belgian pale), 6 lbs of Great Western wheat malt, and 5 lbs of #10 crystal malt. For those of you keeping score at home, that's 85 lbs of grain! I had planned 45 gallons of wort with an OG of 1.046, having a color of just over 5. I have a metric that I've created that tells me what hopping schedule I need for 'balance', and this dictated a hopping rate of about 22 IBU. More on the hops later. I've worked out a water schedule for my home brewing system, and I attempted to scale this up for the amounts of stuff involved. The plan was for 20 gallons of water heated up for a standard infusion mash (the last thing in the world that I wanted was to have to deal with 30 lbs of grain in a decoction mash!), with 40 gallons of sparge water. What with the grain absorbing water (I estimated about 10 gallons for all that grain), and an estimated 9 gallons of evaporation (a 1.5 hour boil at 6 gallons per hour), there was a lot of substance in the system. I had also boiled up an additional 10 gallons of water in case the mash temperature needed adjusted. This was very handy, as I shall explain. With all of this grain, we needed some place to mash them. Larry owns two 108 quart coolers (Igloo?), one of which is set up for mash, the other set up for sparge. I can fit about 30 lbs of grain in my 48 quart cooler, so I estimated that I would need about 150 quarts of mash tun capacity for all of that grain. Thus the single cooler wasn't sufficient. (In retrospect, it might have worked, but it would have been close.) Don Johnson, also of the Alers and BJCP candidate brought a lot of his equipment over to augment the operation. He has two coolers, steel (belted?) jacketed Coleman, one 48 quart, and the other 80 quarts. He also has a really cool pump for just sparge water that he got in a J. C. Whitney's catalog, used for pumping in RVs. Between the 108 quart cooler and the 80 quart cooler, we had grain capacity to spare. We stored the too-soon ready sparge water in the other 108 quart cooler, and in the steel 48 quarter. to be continued... Rich Webb Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 11:23:25 -0800 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: Mega-brewing for fun (no profit) (continued) We're so smart. We decided to acidify the sparge water. How much? Well, only experience can tell. We decided to add 3 Tablespoon measures of acid blend to the 40 gallons of water at near boil in the kettle. Don, the equipment god once again, used his digital pH meter to record the before and after chemical snapshots of our water acidity. Before acidification, the tap water (at tap temperature) had a pH of about 8. After adding the acid, pH dropped to 2.6! WAY below our target of 5! Hence the addition of the 10 gallons of emergency backup water for acid water dilution. This raised the pH to about 6.2. We decided to live with this. That acid blend is some powerful stuff! Anybody wants to figure out what the correct quantity for an adjustment of about 10 gallons of water? I'd be more than happy to find out how we should have done it... Accident number 1. Don had his digital pH meter in his shirt pocket when he leaned over the sparge water storage cooler to look at the water. Meter, affected by gravity (as are we all) fell into the water. Contemplating the cost of a digital pH meter, balanced by damage to organic substances (flesh) in 170 degree water, he reached in and grabbed his meter. Good call! Only a little burn to his fingers, and with any luck, his meter will live to report pH another day. Accident number 2 & 3. Don is a carpenter, and after a job found a lot of materials that didn't get used. He took the stuff and created a really cool collapsible stand for standing his tuns on. The legs fit into a step like affair that can be stood on (hence the step form) for tun observation. Unfortunately, he set his stand up in the garage under the garage door railings. Being of elongated stature, both he and I managed to step up on the step and bash our heads into the railings. I learned my lesson. Operant conditioning you know. After I pointed this out to him, he stepped up on it again. All he did then was knock his hat off. I think that he picked up on the danger then. No more injuries were suffered. That I know of... The mashing and boiling went without incident. Don's pump (I have serious equipment envy, what with his tuns, his pump, his stand, his kettle, and what not...) worked great for pumping sparge water around to the sparge ring. It would collapse if there was any air in the system, but that's planning water elevations only. The liquor transfer was less satisfactory. Drain to buckets, and pour a looooooong distance to the bottom of the kettle. Again, proper liquid elevation planning for next time. Even with the addition of 10 extra gallons into the system, the starting kettle volume was a little short. The final gravity reading was 1.050, so I estimate a final volume of 42 gallons. The hopping schedule called for a LOT of hops, even though the IBU level wasn't that high. I had checked my hops a few days before on a kitchen diet scale. It said that I had plenty of hops. It lied. When I put the bag on my more scientific scale at the actual addition time, I was a couple of ounces short. Serious improvisation required. The actual additions were 150 gm of Perle hop flowers at 9.0% acid and 90 gm of Pride of Ringwood hop flowers at 7.0% acid for 60 minutes, 115 gm of Cascade (parentage unknown) for 20 minutes, and 250 gm of Saaz flowers added over the course of the last 5 minutes. This gave an estimated IBU of about 30 IBU, when 24 IBU is considered 'balanced'. A bit over hopped for what I had in mind, but a lot of the unexpected bitterness comes from the large amount of late hops, where I had planned on lesser additions. Oh yeah, we added 2 oz of Irish Moss for 15 minutes of boil. The wort chillers were added for the Cascades addition. Larry needs to build a counter flow chiller for this operation. Until then, we had to make do with three coils of copper immersion chillers. This took a LONG time to cool off that much wort, but we had the time, as we finished up by 3 o'clock, and had to wait for people to get off of work to come and get their wort. Starting at 6:45 that morning, we were done boiling, pitched and cleaned up by 5:00. A piece of cake. In any case, 4 people took away 9 different batches, for 9 different post kettle treatments. There are several yeasts involved, mostly Wyeast ale types (American, British, and Irish), a couple of dry (Edme is the only one that I can remember), and Yeast lab Oktoberfest. Should be interesting. I think that some of the batches will also be dry hopped with Saaz. Sounds lovely. I'll let you know how it works out. Until next time, Rich Webb Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 13:37:20 -0500 From: "Jeff M. Michalski, MD" <michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu> Subject: Coriander: Let's hear more I was quite surprised to see the number of comments about coriander in beer on the hbd this weekend. Some of the comments seemed to be hearsay without direct experience yet the volume of responses suggest that there is a real benefit to using this spice in beer. I made a wit beer this weekend and the coriander aroma and flavor dominated this beer's wort (as it should for this style). The 3/4 oz. of coriander in 5 gals. was added 15 minutes before kockout for this batch. My question is: If I wish to add coriander to another beer style (let's say an Octoberfest or a British ale) when and how much should be added to keep the flavor subdued enough to enhance the beer without dominatng it? JEFF M. MICHALSKI michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Nov 94 16:13:36 AST From: "SEANN TUPPER" <TUPPERS at brhs.cogs.ns.ca> Subject: HelpSeann Tupper Box 359 Bridgetown,NS, Canada BOS 1CO tuppers at brhs.cogs.ns.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 12:34:23 -0800 (PST) From: dsherman at sdcc3.UCSD.EDU (Dan Sherman) Subject: culturing Wyeast Bavarian Weizen In HBD #1578, Harry Covert <0007059940 at mcimail.com> asks about culturing Wyeast Bavarian Weizen. I say, yes, go ahead and culture it (I did). If it is indeed a mix of two strains, however, you do not want to pick single colonies (obviously). Instead, make a patch of the culture on your plates (or baby food jars, or whatever :-) ). About a one inch square patch should be sufficient. If you are unfamiliar with this "technique", just take your inoculating loop, sterile toothpick, or whatever and streak a small amount of yeast back and forth numerous times on a small, square area. This is a patch. The yeast should grow to a fairly equal density over this area. When it comes time to inoculate your starter, take a large inoculum from the patch. If there are two strains present, this will insure that both of them are represented in approximately the same proportion in your starter. Dan Sherman dsherman at ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 16:09:42 -0500 From: HOMEBRE973 at aol.com Subject: amylases Domenick asks about the color tests with iodine: Starch comes in two forms: amylose which are long unbranched chains of D-glucose units with 1,4 linkages and gives a blue-black color with iodine. This blue black color is caused by the iodine fitting into the amylose chains which form a helical structure. Once the helical structure is destoyed by enymes and can no longer trap the iodine, the blue black color disappears. Amylopectin which is a highly branched starch consisting of chains of glucose with 1,4 linkages, but also has branch points which contain 1,6 linkages. Amylopectin gives a red-violet color with iodine. Alpha amylase can break the 1,4 linkages at random yielding mixtures of glucose and maltose. Beta-amylase cleaves away successive maltose units from the non reducing end to yield maltose. Dextrins are polysaccharides of intermediate chain lengths formed from the starch components by the amylases. Since neither alpha nor beta amylases can hydrolyze 1,6 linkages, the amylopectin starches will be broken down to limit dextrins, which I assume will yield a red violet color depending on the amount and size of the limit dextrin. Alpha glucosidase can break the 1,6 linkages. (Lehninger, 1975 ; Biochemistry) Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 16:37:26 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Spirit of Belgium Well, I've recovered from the Spirit of Belgium conference (Saturday morning I had a mild case of the "Belgian Triple Flu"), and thought I'd describe some of the highlights (from my point of view). * Meeting lots of net-folk. Nice to put faces to your names! I was standing at the hotel registration desk when a couple of guys came in, pushing a cart full of beer cases. One of them turned to me and said "Hi, Spence!" I'd never met him.... Side effect of publishing my face on the net, I guess. * Pierre Rajotte talked about practical aspects of Belgian beer brewing, in particular about yeast handling and bottle refermentation. - -- Bottle refermentation always means adding fresh yeast at bottling time (to a Belgian). This is essential when brewing high gravity. - -- Get to know your yeast. Make a test batch (1 pint is sufficient) with the yeast before brewing with it. Smell it, taste it, etc. Make a batch of pale ale before brewing a BIG beer with it. Use the first batch to "pitch" the second. - -- Make a slant from your starter before pitching. You can use this yeast to inoculate the starter you'll use to referment with. - -- Put a small portion of your wort into a jar and stick it a *warm* place so it will ferment quickly and completely. It may not taste good, but you *need* to know the finished gravity of the beer. You can use this knowledge to determine when your big batch is done, and how much sugar (if any) you'll need to add for priming. * Dan McConnell talked about how yeast makes flavors. Lots of chemical diagrams that I'm not going to try to reproduce. * Pierre Perpete, from the University of Louvain (Belgium) talked about how brewing and fermentation conditions affect flavor. Interesting, but difficult to understand in spots. He claimed that one of the (2) yeasts pitched into Orval at bottling time is a Brettanomyces yeast. * Eric Toft, a brewmaster at a Belgian brewery for several years, talked about Belgian brewing practices and ingredient profiles for various styles. Fascinating! So much information that copies were made of his slides to take home. * Friday night tasting. Lots of beer flowing in large quantities. Adjourned upstairs after the official reception closed. Went quite late for some (I left about 1:30). * Saturday morning competition judging, starting at 8am (oooohhhh, my head!) I was on one of the Triple tables. Mostly quite good, too. * Saturday afternoon tasting of Celis beers, led by Pierre Celis. He let loose a few more "secrets" about the White and the Grand Cru. He now says that the ONLY spices in the White are Curacao and *Sweet* (new info!) orange peel, and Coriander (but no amounts, of course). When asked about the lactobacillus pitching step, he first said "I will not lie to you," and then something about "30 years of experience." He had "trouble" understanding the English of a couple of other "nosy" questions :-) Unfortunately, NO RASPBERRY BEER! Apparently the Virginia ABC hadn't approved it for sale yet. * Saturday evening banquet. You had to be there. 5 courses, 6 beers, each introduced by Don Feinberg (owner of VanBerg & Dewulf, importers of fine Belgian beers). And, of course, the announcement of the competition winners. I checked out fairly early Saturday night, since I had an early flight home. More beer was on hand after the banquet, and some continued to party well into the night. I'd say it was definitely worth it for me. I learned quite a bit from the presentations, enjoyed the beer, and it was great to finally meet a bunch of people I "knew" only from the net. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 14:15:16 -0700 From: jeffpolo at eskimo.com (Jeff Wade) Subject: Broken Bottles/Soda Kegs Don't throw out that two-handled bottle capper!! I ran into the same problems with mine a few years back. All you need to do is apply petroleum jelly to the joint and *zow*, good as new :) Soda Kegs. Just wanted to mention how serious a crime it is to tear the tags off of a bed matress these days. Also just as serious to own a soda keg from a distributer that has not authorized this. A little FYI.... WWW. The Virtual Pub. http://lager.geo.brown.edu:8080/virtualpub/index.html Access beer related images and documents, plus participate in on-line beer tastings. Eric's Beer Page http://pekkel.uthscsa.edu/beer.html Information about brewing, and the Texas Beer Scene. Spencer's Beer Page http://guraldi.itn.med.umich.edu:80/Beer/index.html About Homebrewing. The Cityscape Pub Guide http://www.cityscape.co.uk:81/bar/pubguide.html An interactive guide to pubs in Cambridge, England. Beer in Cyberspace http://karikukko.pc.helsinki.fi/beerinfo.html The beer scene in Finland and beyond (finnish/English) Internet: Jeffpolo at eskimo.com Eskimo North/Bellevue, WA "There is no BEER in heaven, that is why we drink and brew it here!" Go Huskies...... Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 94 17:26:57 EST From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Subject: RE: Yeast Lab "European Lager." - -------------------- Mail Item Text Follows ------------------ To: I1010141--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: RE: Yeast Lab "European Lager." I wouldn't mind seeing either a summary of any replies or posts directly to the digest. Whether there is actually a satisfactory dry "lager" yeast now out there is probably of sufficient interest. I can't tell you (without checking) which one (European or Amsterdam) I used, but I used the one that comes in a 7 g packet (the other one is 14 or 15) in a cider (fermented at room temperature) as an experiment and was pleased. Very dry, the way I like it, but without all that loose sediment that I get with Pasteur Champagne yeast. Bob Paolino / Disoriented in Badgerspace /uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Nov 94 17:28:21 EST From: "Mark A. Melton" <75452.277 at compuserve.com> Subject: DME for priming Gary Hannan asked about the longer wait to reach a desired degree of carbonation when using DME instead of dextrose for priming. I have experienced this also. I did a little experimentation in solubility of DME in water. In cool water it does not dissolve fully (volume increases). In hot (> 180 dF) water more dissolves; in boiling water it all dissolves (final volume is slightly less than initial because of loss to vapor). So I now use half-and-half DME and dextrose, 1 cup per 5 gals., and dissolve it in a quart of the beer extracted for that purpose, brought to a boil for a few minutes. This is poured with minimal splashing back into the bottling vat and stirred with a sanitized plastic paddle. My two most recent brews were made with 1) all DME treated as above and 2) all dextrose, also boiled. There was no obvious difference in the time to achieve carbonation and clarify. It's entirely possible that DME not boiled before being added to beer for bottling would never be dissolved completely. Mark A. Melton Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 15:02:31 -0700 From: Jim Doyle <jgdoyle at uci.edu> Subject: irc tasting Since I threw away the digest with the IRC tasting info, would somebody tell me what days, time, and upcoming styles to be tasted there? On pet bottles (and filling with beer)-how do y'all fill them? Counterpressure, or with those cap-pressurizing do-dads? On the BBC hops issue-I called, and the girl who answered the phone (his great-grandmother? heh heh ;> ) told me to send $12.00 to: Noble Hops, Boston Beer Co., 30 Germania Street, Boston, MA 02130. She said they would send a pound of hops. I figure that if I get a pound, I scored. If I get an ounce, I got some kewl hops. While on the phone, I asked for promotional info, and they sent a large envelope with some promo freebies, and several back-issues of the newsletter. All very hyp-ish, but I was impressed with the speed and efficiency of the outfit. I'll post the results of my $12.00 attempt when appropriate. L8R, Jim Doyle jgdoyle at uci.edu California USA North America Earth Milky Way Eye Of God Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 18:21:42 -0500 From: DONBREW at aol.com Subject: new bench capper I found with my Corona that the solution is to hold the bottle tightly with my left hand and actuate the lever with my right hand, still holding the bottle on the up stroke. The thing seems to work much better this way. The guy I bought from said to twist it out, I considered this bad advice. Don Donbrew at aol.com Falls Church, Va. Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Nov 1994 16:23:03 U From: "Chris Cesar" <Chris_Cesar at qmgate.arc.nasa.gov> Subject: Alcohol Content Mail*Link(r) SMTP Alcohol Content I have been brewing for about 7 years now, and shamefully admit that I rarely use a hydrometer any more, except to occasionally check and see what the potential alcohol content of a certain batch is. Strange as it may sound, people often ask me if my beer has more alcohol than say Bud. Most of my beers have an OG between 1.040 and 1.060, finishing between 1.010 and 1.020. I'm speaking from memory now, since I don't have my chart or log book handy, but I seem to recall that the beers usually finished with about 4 to 5.5% alcohol (by volume). All of these beers have more body, more malt flavor, more bitterness, and more complexity than Bud, Miller, Coors, or any standard US commercial brew. I have often told friends that I only brew "heavy" beer. None of this light stuff for me. I recently was checking out the sierra archives, and came across a beer-calories FAQ, that listed the alcohol content of about 200 beers. Boy was I surprised. According to this FAQ, the alcohol content of Budweiser was 4.6%, Miller Highlife had 4.8%, and Coors had 4.9%. The numbers on import brews was about what I expected (mostly mid 4s to low 5s). I could not determine if the assay was by weight or by volume, but unless I goofed, I reasoned that if the assay was by weight, the percent by volume would be even higher. I guess you could say I was surprised that these tasteless, bodyless beers had such high alcohol levels. I had mistakenly assumed that my homebrews were, for the most part, higher in alcohol, as well flavor. I seem to recall discussion in the HBD as well as rec.crafts.brewing indicating that American beers could be imitated with worts of OG in the 1.035 range. This seemed about right to me, based on my experience with what I thought were medium to heavy OGs. I understand that unfermentables, like dextrines, contribute heavily to the mouth feel of a beer, and that bitterness and nose are mainly a function of hop levels, but I was under some impression that increasing the quantity of malt in a recipe would give more malt flavor in the finished product, all other things being equal. Along with the increased malt flavor would come higher alcohol levels. I am also aware that adjuncts like corn and rice can increase the fermentable sugars and will actually dilute the malt flavor and mouth feel of the beer while increasing alcohol levels. Now, I know AB uses rice and corn, but I am not sure about the others. I seem to recall reading "Ingredients: water, malted barley, hops, yeast" off the label of many different brands of American swill. Now, I know a lot of people out there are saying "who cares about that swill the masses drink?", but I am curious. Is this study faulty? Or, do the major American breweries intentionally formulate their beers with large amounts of corn/rice to limit the body and flavor, but keep up the alcohol? A corollary to that question is "How do you brew a beer with almost 5% alcohol using only malted barley, hops, water, and yeast while still getting a beer with no body or malt flavor?" Anyone out there have an explanation? It seems to me that someone trying to brew an American-style light lager would have to have an OG closer to 1.050. Furthermore, it would seem that some mystical process would have to be used to remove the body and malt flavor that would come automatically with that much malt. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1579, 11/15/94