HOMEBREW Digest #1590 Mon 28 November 1994

Digest #1589 Digest #1591

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  NDN: Homebrew Digest #1589 (November 26, 1994) (Gateway)
  Ron Price?/FOOP (Domenick Venezia)
  Head retention & blowoffs ("NAME SEAN O'KEEFE, IFAS FOOD SCIENCE")
  Pectic Enzymes (Pierre Jelenc)
  Hydrogen sulfide: No, I won't relax and I am worrying. (Gary Bell)
  Message from MSELLMA at CARVM8 (CARVM8)
  Re: Raspberry Ale Catastrophe - I'll try this again! (Gary Bell)
  CIDER RECIPE (eric.schweikert)
  Re:Seattle beer, Comments (Segolene Badelon)
  Beer Party (Al Vaughn)
  Minimal blowoff, old Cincinnati beers ("nancy e. renner")
  Odd tastes in cream ale... (va.gal)
  CBF foaming (Lee Bollard)
  Homebrew Digest #1589 (November 26, 1994) (RONALD DWELLE)
  Over-aeration (BOWEMEISTER)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 26 Nov 1994 01:23:12 -0000 From: Gateway at foxmail.gfc.edu (Gateway) Subject: NDN: Homebrew Digest #1589 (November 26, 1994) Sorry. Your message could not be delivered to: ymoriya,George Fox College (The name was not found at the remote site. Check that the name has been entered correctly.) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 1994 08:48:13 -0800 (PST) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: Ron Price?/FOOP A short personal note: RON PRICE, please send me your new email address. In #1589, the second Al K. wrote: >The proteins that form the head foam are denatured (retain their chemical >composition, but change shape) during foam formation. That is, they are only >free to form foam once. >From the eternally skeptical corner: This is the first I've heard of FOOP (Foam Once Only Proteins). I'd like to hear more about this, a lot more. For instance, what is denaturing these proteins? What happens to them to prevent them from foaming again? What the source of this idea/data? Is this perhaps related to the idea that force carbonation reduces head formation and retention by the mechanical shearing of proteins as the bubbles form and break (see Erik Speckman in #1440)? Actually this could be easily tested with a bottle of homebrew and a lab shaker. After a while the sample should cease (weakly) foam. If I do it I'll report back. Anyone have any ideas on how to objectively measure foam formation? 100 ml sample in a 250 ml cylinder and shake the heck out of it - measure height of foam after 15 secs continuous agitation? WARNING: Turkey is a soporific. Do not operate heavy machinery while under its influence. Domenick Venezia ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 1994 12:03:51 -0500 (EST) From: "NAME SEAN O'KEEFE, IFAS FOOD SCIENCE" <SFO at gnv.ifas.ufl.edu> Subject: Head retention & blowoffs Al in 1589 suggested that the proteins are irreversibly "used up" during denaturation to stabilize krausen bubbles and would not act to stabilize foam in your glass. I would think that the denaturation in beer at the CO2-water interface would be rather mild. Proteins that are denatured by shear force, for example egg white proteins during whipping to form the aerogel, would be irreversible denatured. But sice the force on beer proteins is minimal, the proteins would likely align on the nonpolar- polar interface BW CO2-water and only slightly unfold. Not all proteins in wort would lead to foam stability. factors affecting the ability of a protein to stabilize a foam include concentration, viscosity, structure, denaturation, salts, pH, temperature, denaturants and complimentary surfactants. If blow-off leads to loss of proteins that are particularly important in foam stability then in theory this would lead to lower foam stability in the glass. But there are many factors that could affect this (protein level/type in grains, protein rest etc etc). Thus, what could lead to lower foam stability for me might have no effect for you. If you have foam stability problems and use a blowoff try the next batch without blowoff to see if this helps. Beware of detergents for cleaning brewing equipment and your glasses (esp if you use a dishwasher with rinsing agent). Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 94 13:35:56 EST From: Pierre Jelenc <pcj1 at columbia.edu> Subject: Pectic Enzymes In HBD 1589, Ward Weathers <psu01739 at odin.cc.pdx.edu> asks: << Does anyone know from where pectic enzymes are derived? >> Sigma sells three types, derived from Aspergillus niger, Aspergillus japonicus, and undefined Rhizopus species. Pierre Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 1994 08:47:20 -0800 From: gbell at ix.netcom.com (Gary Bell) Subject: Hydrogen sulfide: No, I won't relax and I am worrying. I've seen similar questions posted before, and I've seen the calming answers, but I'm still worried. Details: I started a batch of extract pale ale on Thursday using 4 1/2 lbs English DME, 1/2 lb Crystal and 2 oz Chocolate malt. The 2 1/2 gallon boil was for 60 minutes with 3 additions of hops (Bullion, Cascade & Hallertauer) for about 40 IBU's. Immersion chiller before mixing and aerating with 2 1/2 gallon cold water - immediately pitched at 68 F in plastic under an airlock. I used about 3/4 quart of starter at high krauesen. The yeast was Mendocino, captured from "Eye of the Hawk", and the starter came from the secondary of a previous brew that was bottled two weeks ago. Furious fermentation achieved in 14 hours and all seemed well until 36 hours into the fermentation I opened the lid of the 32 gallon garbage can that I keep the fermenter in to stabilize temperature, expecting the wonderful smell of ferment and received a snoot-full of intense Hydrogen sulfide! Now, if I'd been trying a new yeast or a new brand of extract, I wouldn't be so worried. The only thing new here was the Cascade hops which are fresh. I can't see any reason for the the new smell. Any hints? TIA. Signed: Worried in Lake Elsinore. (Gary) - -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gary Bell "Quis dolor cui dolium?" Lake Elsinore, CA (909) 674-3637 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Nov 1994 00:13:45 From: CARVM8 at vnet.IBM.COM Subject: Message from MSELLMA at CARVM8 vacation The mail you sent has been archived. This message was sent by the SAFE automatic machine: do not reply. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 1994 08:50:40 -0800 From: gbell at ix.netcom.com (Gary Bell) Subject: Re: Raspberry Ale Catastrophe - I'll try this again! I don't know what happened the first time I tried to post this -- the text is probably winging it's way to the far end of the galaxy. Eric Hale reported disaster with his raspberry ale blowing all over the kitchen. I had a similar problem last week with not quite so devastating results. I split a 5 gallon batch into 5 one-gallon cider jugs at the secondary and added 1/2 pound of dried tart cherries to two, and 2 lbs of wild blackberries (Himalayaberries) to two. The other was a "fruitless control". About 24 hours after adding the fruit the fruit started blow into the airlock. One airlock blew off completely, but I was there to prevent the loss of half the jug. The problem was that the fruit added so much fermentable sugar to the beer, but the berries and pulp form a layer on top of the beer that is almost impermeable to all the CO2 being released. I solved my problem by pouring off a small quantity of beer from the worst offenders (the blackberry) to increase the headspace, and swirling the jugs every 4 hours for the next 36 hours until the CO2 production subsided. I then swirled them every 12 hours for the nextthree days and am now doing a daily swirl. This brings the CO2 up into the next and, conversely, lets the fruit "fall back" down onto the beer. I only really had one sleepless night, and I think I avoided any contamination. I think Eric's beer will be fine, too. There is so much CO2 being produced that it provides a huge cushion to prevent oxidation and you probably didn't get contamination. Relax. Needless to say, next time I do this I'll be doing it in a *huge* secondary - I think I want at least a foot of straight-sided headspace to let the CO2 blow by the fruit. Good luck & cheers, Gary - -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gary Bell "Quis dolor cui dolium?" Lake Elsinore, CA (909) 674-3637 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 94 15:34:45 From: eric.schweikert at his.com Subject: CIDER RECIPE Following up on this thread about cider, I've had really outstanding luck with a recipe out of a wine-making book, which I thought I'd include here. Some of the ingredients are wine-specific, but I found them all in my local brew shop. For 5 gal final volume: * 5 gal unpreserved cider * sugar or apple conc to raise OG to 1.060 (I used 5 cans froz. conc. apple juice (size to make 48 oz, no preservatives) + 0.5 cups brown sugar) (apple flavor is important, so if you use sugar, consider adding apple flavor concentrate, avail in wine-making shops and many homebrew shops) * 2 tsp pectic enzyme (keeps lumps from forming, probably optional) * 2 tsp liquid tannin (I substituted dry tannin and it was fine, could also use _strong_ cold tea) * 1.5 campden tablets mix above, wait one day for campden to gas off, then pitch: * 1 0r 2 packets Champagne yeast (for dry cider) or ale yeast (for less-dry, which I prefer) * 1 or 2 packets yeast nutrient ferment to completion (rack when sediment gets too heavy) then rack to carboy, bulk age 1 month bottle with 0.75 cups corn or brown sugar (try 1 liter PET bottles) OG 1.060 FG 0.997-0.960 For best results, use the second set of ingreds. to make a starter mixture with 0.5 cups sugar in 1 cup boiled water on the first day and pitch the lot the second day. For most predictable (sp?) sweet cider results, use champagne yeast. When complete and aged, add sulphite to kill the yeast, add 10+ oz Wine Conditioner for sweetnes (to taste), filter, and sparkle with CO2. (too much work for me) With champagne yeast this goes to completion rather fast (<1 week). Note that with ale yeast you're fermenting close to the yeast's alc tolerance (this finishes at quite low FG), so fermentation may go on slowly for quite some time (2+ weeks). Unlike beer, this gets _much_ better over time (it's apple wine, I guess). My 2-year-old first batch is really great now, even though it tasted sort of yeast-y at first. I'd wait at least a month before drinking, though you may want to open a few early for the holidays. Best of luck! - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Eric Schweikert eds at his.com - -------------------------------------------------------------------- TIMM (1.0 Beta 5a) Macintosh qwk reader Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 1994 15:03:04 -0800 (PST) From: Segolene Badelon <psu02502 at odin.cc.pdx.edu> Subject: Re:Seattle beer, Comments Reading my homebrew messages, I was chocked !!!!!But I stayed calm, thanks to the delicious Pale ale, I was enjoying!!! In a list of Seattle beers, I found Deschutes which is an Oregon microbrewery. I am glad to tell you that there is a great difference. I live in Portland, Oregon. It is the world capital of microbreweries. Enjoy the pleasure of really good, self satisfactoring homebeers!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 1994 15:59:00 GMT From: al.vaughn at castles.com (Al Vaughn) Subject: Beer Party Stan White requested input on ideas for a beer tasting party. Several years ago I hosted a beer tasting party (this one happened to be during the summer in Yosemite but anyway) and the requirements were for everyone to bring a six pack of assorted imports. You could do something along the same thread and make it micro-brews, imports or selective styles. Once all the beers were assembled (and beer tasters) we tasted each of the different types. As each type was tasted, it was rated against others in the same classification and the empty bottle(s) placed in the appropriate order in front or behind the others in the same classification. This went on for most of the day and we got some pretty suprising results. The only problem we had was that some fool couldn't read the bottle label correctly or misunderstood import for export and brought a whole six pack of Heilman's special export. He was banished to the nearest tree to drink by himself. I'm sure you could make your own variations of this theme. However, by having each person bring their own selections, it gave us a good cross- section of beer types and styles. Enjoy! Al.Vaughn at Casltes.com - --- * CMPQwk #1.4* UNREGISTERED EVALUATION COPY Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 94 21:41:14 From: ding.dong at esbbs.com Subject: KEG HOMEBREW IN BOTTLES This is in response to a question asked by Dave Setser, regarding his keg system and putting beer in bottles. I use a keg setup with a couple of cornelius kegs and an old refrigerator, along with a 20lb co2 tank. This may sound overly simplified, but all I do is get a bottle of seltzer water at the grocery store, the cheapest kind I can find (under a dollar for a 2 liter jug), pour out the water and fill it with beer. It helps to lower the pressure from the CO2 tank to avoid foaming, it might help to chill the empty bottle before filling too, if the foam is still a problem. I am basically lazy, so I don't even bother rinsing the bottle, I mean, what did it have in it? Water, right? You can rinse it if you want, this keeps the beer pretty well for a few hours, which is all I need. A question to the group. There was much discussion regarding coriander in beer. My question to anyone who might have used it, will it really improve the "maltiness" of a brew? TIA. Fran Flynn fflynn at delphi.com or frank02 at aol.com or ding.dong at esbbs.com or......... Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 1994 19:43:59 -0500 (EST) From: "nancy e. renner" <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Minimal blowoff, old Cincinnati beers (From *Jeff* Renner) Al says: > I have *tried* (on some batches) to fill my fermenters to such a level that >there is *a little* blowoff (as someone else (sorry) mentioned they do), C'est moi! >but since I use about eight different yeasts (and plan to try a few more) and >since my fermentation room temperature varies 10 degrees over the course of >the brewing season and since the gravity of the wort (which has a lot to do >with both the vigor of the ferment) varies quite a bit from batch-to-batch. >I've been unsuccessful in getting the fill level "right" 90% of the time. The way I accomplish at least better than 10% success (with a similar number of variables) is to underfill my fermenter slightly, then at high kraeusen, add either some leftover (canned) wort or cooled, boiled water, just enough to get blowoff. It is at this point that I switch from an air lock to a blowoff tube. I once had enough negative pressure in my fermenter (additional O2 absorbtion or cooling) to pull a little chlorine water into the beer. Believe me, once is enough! I fermented it out, but the chloro-phenolic flavor ruined the beer. *** Thanks to those who have responded to my request on old Cincinnati beers. While I think that most of my memory is just due to my youthful palate 40 years ago, I do have some ideas. One is DMS that may play a part. While I was in Cincinnati this weekend, I bought a 6-pack of Hudepohl. First taste of it in 30 years. Sure enough, DMS. Not overwhelmingly, but there. Also there was real hop bitterness - I would guess in the upper teens IBUs, and some aroma hops as well. Pretty good for $2.99/6-pack. I will report on further progress. Jeff in Ann Arbor c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 94 02:54:00 UTC From: va.gal at genie.geis.com Subject: Odd tastes in cream ale... I recently brewed an extract based cream ale with 5 lbs. DME, 1 lb. rice extract syrup, some assorted hops, and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale yeast. After bottling and aging, I finally tried one. The beer had the right taste for a cream ale, but it had a funny aftertaste. Kind of, well, ricey?? It's an unusual taste that I simply cannot place. I believe my sanitation techniques are fine, since 30+ batches have not been a problem. This is the first time that I've used rice syrup extract though. Does anyway know if this taste is due to the rice syrup? And will it eventually subside? For reference, it has only been 14 days since I bottled. Any/all help would be much appreciated. TIA. Duke Nukem Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 94 19:31:28 PST From: Lee Bollard <bollard at spk.hp.com> Subject: CBF foaming I just tried a counterpressure bottle filler for the first time, and had foaming problems. I couldn't get the bottles more than 3/4 full, and foam began the minute beer flowed into the bottle. I chilled both the bottles and the CBF in the fridge with the keg. What's the trick to make this gizmo work? Regards, Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 94 22:35:11 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: Homebrew Digest #1589 (November 26, 1994) Regarding hop plants, I have heard that the new shoots are not only edible but very tasty. My understanding is that you trim away the new shoots except for a couple of the most vigorous. And then you eat what you've trimmed away. Anybody have experience with this? Is it true? Harvesting secrets? (My first crop will be re-borning next spring, hopefully.) Cheers, Ron Dwelle (dweller at gvsu.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 1994 22:51:12 -0500 (EST) From: BOWEMEISTER at delphi.com Subject: Over-aeration I am one of those people who, for some reason, thinks that if a little bit something is good, then a whole lot of that something *must* be great!!! My latest escapade has been in aeration. I bought a cheap aquarium air pump at Walmart for about $4 to help ensure adequate aeration of the cooled wort. As usual, I carried aeration to the extreme. Listed below is a description of the events, and observations of what is happening, for the enlightenment of those lucky few who don't have to learn everything the hard way: Last night I brewed a simple ale (6 lbs extract, 2 oz hops, 1 lb specialty grain, 1/2 tsp yeast nutrient, plus Wyeast American Ale grown up to about a 1 pint starter). I did a full volume boil in a 6 gallon kettle and ended up with about 4 gallons of cooled wort, which I siphoned to a 7 gallon carboy, and then pitched the yeast. **Note the 3 gallon headspace. I read somewhere (Miller ??) that you simply can't over aerate the wort during the first 12 hours after the yeast if pitched. So, I let the air pump run through the night while I slept. I think my plan was to stop the aeration, let the trub settle for 6-hours or so, rack off the trub into 5 gallon carboy, add another gallon of water, and let it ferment. Well....so much for plans! There is no way that the trub is going to settle because I am now witnessing the must vigorous fermentation that I have ever seen! I actually had to attach a blowoff tube even though I have 3 gallons of headspace. I estimate that the foam is traveling through the 1-inch diameter blowoff tube at a velocity of about 1-2 inch/second. It's bubbling to fast to count, but I would estimate between 4-10 bubbles/second, with an occasional jump to maybe 20+ bubbles/second! Although there are no actual waves at the liquid/kraeusen interface, the bubbles swirling around in the liquid look like a whirlpool. Now, for the amazing part: I have a fermometer attached to the carboy. I also have a temperature controlled refrigerator. When I put the vigorously fermenting mess in the refrigerator, the fermometer read 76-78 F. The thermostat on the refrigerator is set for 68 F. The refrigerator has been running almost continuously, and the temperature on the side of the carboy is off the scale...meaning that it's over 80 F. This stuff is actually getting warmer sitting in a refrigerator! With the combination of very high fermentation temp and tons of trub in the wort, I imagine that the brew will have enough fusel alcohol to make a good paint thinner. So, the moral of this story is, be careful if you get ambitious with aeration -- it *is* possible to over-aerate your wort!!! Brew-on! bowemeister at delphi.com Bowe Wingerd - ------------ BTW, maybe we should have a blowoff FAQ <G>. The pros and cons of blowoff is one of the most debated subjects ever on HBD. Personally, I like having a small amount of blowoff. Also, having a blowoff tube in inventory should be in the "highly recommended" list of items for beginners because if you have a really vigorous fermentation and no blowoff tube... :-( bummer! - ------------ Ohhh, ok, one last thing...I hereby release this note to the public at large. Feel free to copy it, sell it, or whatever. I am posting this note for the benefit of others. The more people who read it, and benefit from it, the better, IMHO. We who have Internet access are lucky to be able to benefit from this forum...but, why should we try to exclude the vast majority of brewers who don't have Internet? If someone wants to print and sell these notes, and they start to make a lot of money, then free enterprise will kick in and others will try to take a piece of the pie, thereby reducing profits. Nobody is going to get rich by doing this...and a whole lot of non-Internet brewers will be able to reap the benefits of our collective wisdom. Let's lighten up and focus on the purpose of the HBD....'nuff said. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1590, 11/28/94