FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  lambic...NOT / priming / low-alcohol beer (uswlsrap)
  Spanish Peaks Black Dog Ale ("Blahnik, Vance")
  Worlds Cheapest Counterpressure Filler! (Glenn Anderson)
  Kraeusen crud ("nancy e. renner")
  1-800 Brew Catalogs (James A Lindberg)
  Champagne bottles, Fermentaps, faux lambics ("Harralson, Kirk")
  Aeration - To easy to be healthy? (Rick Starke)
  FOOP (Domenick Venezia)
  carboy glug-no-more (FFWJOHN)
  Sam Adams <TM> Hops (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132)
  Sam Adams Triple Bock ("Dave Suurballe")
  Pots/Temperature Control (JSTONE)
  Aeration procedures / Hop Teas (MHANSEN)
  GLATT MILL INTEGRITY (Evan Kraus)
  Roller Mill Project Complete (Chris Barnhart)
  smoking grains (MicahM1269)
  Re: Steam Bock (Jim Ancona)
  Re:  Water Heater Conversion (Keith Frank)
  Don't Throw it out! (George Kavanagh O/o)
  UNANTICIPATED FERM TEMP (Charles Wettergreen)



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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 06 Dec 1994 11:23:13 EST
From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com
Subject: lambic...NOT / priming / low-alcohol beer                        

- -------------------- Mail Item Text Follows ------------------

To: I1010141--IBMMAIL

From: Bob Paolino               Research Analyst
Subject: lambic...NOT / priming / low-alcohol beer

Tim Laatsch in LarryLand asks about Lindeman's:

Can you say expensive fruit soda? I knew ya could. (In fact, you did in your
post whether you know it or not.) Yes, lambics are supposed to have a sour
character (and lots of other things). I'm no expert, just a satisfied
imbiber,but stay away from that Lindeman's swill! If you want to get a little
more information, try subscribing to the lambic-digest. The discussion covers
Belgian brews generally, but you get some real lambic-heads there who will tell
you more than you ever imagined you'd want to know. Send subscribe request to
lambic-request@ lance.colostate.edu

Eugene Sonn asks about priming:

I prime by starting with the boiled corn sugar and water in the bottom of the
"target" bucket and rack the beer on top of it with the hose on the bottom of
the bucket. The "swirling" action seems to be enough to mix the sugar and the
beer. Make sure your hose is long enough to lay on the bottom of the bucket and
you should have no problem getting a consistent mix without any other stirring
or splashing (which you want to avoid anyway).

Don Ulin asks about non-alcohol beer:

I don't know about _non_-alcohol beer, but I have made a decent enough
low-alcohol beer. OG was 1.024, with a pound of carapils in five gallons to
give it some body. Nothing remarkable, but good enough for a third place ribbon
at the Wisconsin State Fair among a wide range of styles (i.e., the category
for anything that didn't fit in a category). Go easy on the hops.  It was a
cheap enough experiment--two cases for $7-8: One 3.3 pound bag of NW extract, a
pound of grain, hops totalling about an ounce, and a pack of (yes) dry yeast.
Pierre Rajotte's Belgian ale book in the style series gives a recipe for a
table beer he calls "Driver's Choice." OG is 1.016.  Haven't tried it. I can
recall the published OG because I recently had the book out while giving
telephone advice to someone on tripels (how's that for a contrast in alcohol
content?) and paged by that part of the book.  Not that one shouldn't be
careful, but my understanding from recent research (only a newspaper reader's
knowledge) is that the alcohol and pregnancy thing has been overstated.
It's hard to imagine that an occasional 1.016 beer should be a problem for
a healthy person. YMMV.  I'm not a physician and I don't play one on TV.

Now go have a beer,

Bob Paolino / Disoriented in Badgerspace /uswlsrap at ibmmail.com

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 06 Dec 94 11:00:00 PST
From: "Blahnik, Vance" <vanceb at p01.uci.com>
Subject: Spanish Peaks Black Dog Ale


Does any body out there know what the hop profile in Spanish Peaks' Black 
Dog Ale is.  I really like the flavor and am unable to determine what hops 
are used.

Thanks!! 

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 6 Dec 1994 09:25:05 -0800
From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com>

Subject: Beer flavor not wheel but log

The 'beer flavor wheel' is an attempt to standardize a language through which
tasters can agree on a word to flavor corelation. I don't know why it's in
the form of a wheel, but if the wheel is unraveled, it looks a lot like this.
Pay particular attention to the lack of indentation for this report. If you
use it, indent using the following standard:

Class 1
    0110
        0111
        0112

Class 2
    etc.

I hope that you find this useful in trying to communicate just what you're
tasting in your beers, meads, wines, sakes, ciders, or feathers...

Rich Webb, Kent, WA USA


Recommended descriptors of Beer Flavor

Relevance Key:
O:  Odor
T:  Taste
M:  Mouthfeel
W:  Warming
Af: After flavor

Class Term      Relevance       Comments, synonyms, definitions

Class 1 - Aromatic, Fragrant, Fruity, Floral

0110   Alcoholic   OTW   The general effect of ethanol and higher alcohols

0111   Spicy   OTW   Allspice, nutmeg, peppery, eugenol. See also 1003 Vanilla

0112   Vinous   OTW   Bouquet, fusely, wine-like   (White wine)

0120   Solvent-like   OT   Like chemical solvents

0121   Plastics   OT   Plasticizers

0122   Can-liner   OT   Lacquer-like

0123   Acetone

0130   Estery   OT   Like aliphatic esters

0131   Isoamyl acetate   OT   Banana, peardrop

0132   Ethyl hexanoate   OT   Apple-like with note of aniseed.
        See 0142 Apple

0133   Ethyl acetate   OT   Light fruity, solvent-like. See
        also 0120 Solvent like

0140   Fruity   OT   Of specific fruits or mixtures of fruits

0141   Citrus   OT   Citral, grapefruit, lemony, orange-rind

0142   Apple

0143   Banana

0144   Blackcurrant   OT   Blackcurrant fruit. For Blackcurrant
        leaves use 0810 Catty

0145   Melony

0146   Pear

0147   Raspberry

0148   Strawberry

0150   Acetaldehyde   OT   Green apples, raw appleskin, bruised apples

0160   Floral   OT   Like flowers, fragrant

0161   2-Phenylethanol   OT   Rose-like

0162   Geraniol   OT   Rose-like, different from 0161. Taster
        should compare the pure chemicals

0163   Perfumy   OT   Scented

0170   Hoppy   OT   Fresh hop aroma. Use with other terms to
        describe stale hop aroma.
        Does not include hop bitterness (See 1200 Bitter)

0171   Kettle-hop   OT   Flavor imparted by aroma hops boiled 
        in the kettle.

0172   Dry-hop   OT   Flavor imparted by dry hops added in tank 
        or cask.

0173   Hop oil   OT   Flavor imparted by addition of distilled hop oil.


Class 2 - Resinous, Nutty, Green, Grassy

0210   Resinous   OT   Fresh sawdust, resin, cedarwood, pinewood,
        sprucy, terpenoid.

0211   Woody   OT   Seasoned wood (uncut)

0220   Nutty   OT   As in Brazil-nut, hazelnut, sherry-like

0221   Walnut   OT   Fresh (not rancid) walnut

0222   Coconut

0223   Beany   OT   Bean soup

0224   Almond   OT   Marzipan

0230   Grassy

0231   Freshly-cut grass   OT   Green, crushed green leaves,
        leafy, alfalfa.

0232   Straw-like   OT   Hay-like


Class 3 - Cereal

0310   Grainy   OT   Raw grain flavor

0311   Husky   OT   Husk-like, chaff, 'Glattwasser'.

0312   Corn grits   OT   Maize grits, adjuncty

0311   Mealy   OT   Like flour

0320   Malty

0330   Worty   OT   Fresh wort aroma. Use with other terms to 
        describe infected wort, e.g. 0731 Parsnip


Class 4 - Caramelized, Roasted

0410   Caramel   OT   Burnt sugar, toffee-like

0411   Molasses   OT   Black treacle, treacly.

0412   Licorice

0420   Burnt   OTM   Scorched aroma, dry mouthfeel and sharp 
        acrid taste.

0421   Bread-crust   OTM   Charred toast.

0422   Roast-barley   OTM   Chocolate malt.

0423   Smoky   OT


Class 5 - Phenolic

0500   Phenolic   OT

0501   Tarry   OT   Pitch, faulty pitching of containers.

0502   Bakelite

0503   Carbolic   OT   Phenol.

0504   Chlorophenol   OT   Trichlorophenol (TCP), hospital-like.

0505   Iodoform   OT   Iodophors, hospital-like, pharmaceutical.


Class 6 - Soapy, Fatty, Diacetyl, Oily, Rancid

0610   Fatty acid

0611   Caprylic   OT   Soapy, fatty, goaty, tallowy.

0612   Cheesy   OT   Dry, stale cheese, old hops. Hydrolytic rancidity.

0613   Isovaleric   OT   Dry, stale cheese, old hops. Hydrolytic rancidity.

0614   Butyric   OT   Rancid butter.

0620   Diacetyl   OT   Butterscotch, buttermilk

0630   Rancid   OT   Oxidative rancidity.

0631   Rancid oil   OTM   Oxidative rancidity.

0640   Oily

0641   Vegetable oil   OTM   As in refined vegetable oil.

0642   Mineral oil   OTM   Gasoline (petrol), kerosene (paraffin), machine oil.


Class 7 - Sulphury

0700   Sulphury   OT

0710   Sulphitic   OT   Sulphur dioxide, striking-match, choking,
        sulphurous-SO2

0720   Sulphidic   OT   Rotten egg, sulphury-reduced, sulphurous-RSH

0721   H2S   OT   Rotten egg

0722   Mercaptan   OT   Lower mercaptans, drains, stench

0723   Garlic

0724   Lightstruck   OT   Skunky, sunstruck

0725   Autolysed   OT   Rotting yeast (see also 0740 Yeasty).

0727   Shrimp-like   OT   Water in which shrimp have been cooked

0730   Cooked vegetable   OT   Mainly dialkyl sulphides, sulphurous-RSR

0731   Parsnip / celery   OT   An effect of wort infection

0732   DMS   OT   Dimethyl sulphide

0733   Cooked tomato   OT   Tomato juice (processed), tomato ketchup.

0736   Cooked onion

0740   Yeasty   OT   Fresh yeast, flavor of heated thiamine
        (see also 0725 Autolysed).

0741   Meaty   OT   Brothy, cooked meat, meat extract, peptone, yeast broth.


Class 8 - Oxidized, Stale, Musty

0800   Stale   OTM   Old beer, overaged, overpasteurized.

0810   Catty   OT   Blackcurrant leaves, ribes, tomato plants, oxidized beer.

0820   Papery   OT   An initial stage of staling, bready (stale bread crumb),
        cardboard, old beer, oxidized.

0830   Leathery   OT   A later stage of staling, then often 
        used in conjunction with 0211 Woody.

0840   Moldy   OT   Cellar-like, leaf-mold, woodsy.

0841   Earthy   OT   Actinomycetes, damp soil, freshly dug soil,
        diatomaceous earth.

0842   Musty   OT   Fusty.


Class 9 - Sour, acidic

9000   Acidic   OT   Pungent aroma, sharpness of taste, mineral acid.

0910   Acetic   OT   Vinegar

0920   Sour   OT   Lactic, sour milk, Use with 0141 for citrus-sour.


Class 10 - Sweet

1000   Sweet   OT

1001   Honey   OT   Can occur as an effect of beer staling, e.g. the
        odor of stale beer in a glass, oxidized (stale) honey.

1002   Jam-like   OT   May be qualified by sub-classes of 0140 Fruity.

1003   Vanilla   OT   Custard powder, vanillin.

1004   Primings

1005   Syrupy   OTM   Clear (golden) syrup.

1006   Oversweet   OT   Sickly sweet, cloying.


Class 11 - Salty

1100   Salty   T


Class 12 - Bitter

1200   Bitter   TAf


Class 13 - Mouthfeel

1310   Alkaline   TMAf   Flavor imparted by accidental admixture 
        of alkaline detergent.

1320   Mouthcoating   MAf   Creamy, 'onctueux' (Fr.).

1330   Metallic   OTMAf   Iron, rusty water, coins, tinny, inky.

1340   Astringent   MAf   Mouth puckering, puckery, tannin-like, 
tart

1341   Drying   MAf   Unsweet.

1350   Powdery   O   Dusty cushion, irritating (with 0310 Grainy)
        mill room smell. 
      TM   Chalky, particulate, scratchy, silicate-like, siliceous.

1360   Carbonation   M   CO2 content.

1361   Flat   M   Under carbonated.

1362   Gassy   M   Over carbonated.

1370   Warming   WMAf   See also 0110 Alcoholic and 0111 Spicy.


Class 14 - Fullness

1410   Body   OTM   Fullness of flavor and mouthfeel.

1411   Watery   TM   Thin, seemingly diluted.

1412   Characterless   OTM   Bland, empty, flavorless.

1413   Satiating   OTM   Extra-full, filling.

1414   Thick   TM   Viscous, 'epais' (Fr.).

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 06 Dec 1994 13:04:13 -0500
From: gramps at interlog.com (Glenn Anderson)
Subject: Worlds Cheapest Counterpressure Filler!

I've been shopping around for parts to make a CP filler and before
purchasing anything I stopped to analyze exactly what I was doing. I want to
fill a bottle with minimum oxidation/foam/loss of carbonation.

Here's what I do. Step 1, purge the bottle with CO2, I simply connect an
empty keg to a dispensing tap and give the empty a shot. Step two, fill the
bottle with my funky-new-filler(tm). Step 3, cap, store and drink.

How to build the funky-new-filler(tm): attach about 6 inches of 3/8 tubing
to the end of the keg tap (or whatever size fits your tap well). Attach
about 10 inches of rigid plastic or SS tubing to the end of the 3/8 tubing
(again, or whatever fits). Slide a #2 bored stopper over the rigid tubing,
far enough on so that the tube extends almost to the bottom of a bottle when
the stopper is seated snugly.

Place the funky-new-filler(tm) into the bottle, and press the tap to start
the beer flowing. The bottle will fill about 1 inch before the pressure
equalizes inside the bottle to the keg pressure (I use 15 PSI to dispense).
At his point some skill is required, and can be obtained through practice.
Gently squeeze the stopper and some of the pressure will leak by, allowing
beer to flow. continue to squeeze in a pseudo-controlled fashion until the
bottle is full. I fill until beer actually leaks by, assuring me that the
bottle is void of any gas, be it air or CO2. Remove the funky-new-filler(tm)
and there will be about the right ammount of headspace to satisfy the
judges. Removing the filler will draw air into the bottle as the level
drops, but I figure no more than an expensive commercial filler.

Total cost for the filler, 45 cents.

 ...Glenn 

Glenn Anderson
Manager, Telecommunications Facilities, BCS
Sun Life Of Canada
EMAIL: GRAMPS at INTERLOG.COM


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Date: Tue, 6 Dec 1994 13:04:43 -0500 (EST)
From: "nancy e. renner" <nerenner at umich.edu>
Subject: Kraeusen crud

(From *Jeff* Renner)

Okay, we've all talked about the benefits of blowoff, skimming, etc,
and danced around the *real* $64,000 question.  Just what is that waxy
brown crud on primary walls, blowoff tubes, etc.?  I've seen this argued
for twenty years (Zymurgy, Dave Line, everybody else.)  Some say it is
your precious isomerized hop acids, and that removing it will reduce your
hopping bitterness.  Others say that it is some unwanted bitter
component (hot break, cold break?) that should be removed or you will get an 
unwanted harsh bitterness (ever tasted it?  You will be tasting bitter 
for many, many minutes).  Others say that it is just collapsed kraeusen 
(foam).  I've heard lots of opinions.  Does anyone *really* know?  I 
mean, like chromatography results or something?  Documented facts?  This 
certainly has bearing on the blowoff/skimming discussion.  Please, some of you 
chemists, tell us.

Jeff in Ann Arbor, MI c/o nerenner at umich.edu

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 6 Dec 94 12:26:16 CST
From: jal at ted.cray.com (James A Lindberg)
Subject: 1-800 Brew Catalogs

1-800 AND INTERNET BREW NUMBERS FOR HOMEBREW CATALOGS


Big Basin Brewing         CA   800-509-2739
Brewers Resource          CA   800-827-3983
Fun Fermentations         CA   800-950-9463
Great Fermentations       CA   800-542-2520                     
GFSR                      CA   800-544-1867                    
South Bay Homebrew Supply CA   800-608-2739  74557.1102 at compuserve.com
Williams Brewing          CA   800-759-6025                      
Yeasty Brew Unlimited     CA   800-928-2739
Maltose Express           CT   800-625-8673
Barley & Hops Trading     FL   800-810-4677
Hearts Homebrew Supply    FL   800-392-8322
Sebastion Brewers Sply    FL   800-780-7837              
Brew Your Own Beverages   GA   800-477-2962
The Whistle Pig           GA   800-947-5744
S.P.S. Beer Stuff         IA                 spsbeer at ins.infonet.net
The Brewer's Coop         IL   800-451-6348                        
Alternative Garden Supply IL   800-444-2837                        
Heartland Hydr & HB       IL   800-354-4769                      
Beer & Wine Hobby         MA   800-523-5423                
The Modern Brewer         MA   800-736-3253
The Vineyard              MA   800-626-2371               
Brew N Kettle             MD   800-809-3003
Gus's Discount Warehouse  MI   800-475-9688
The Yeast Culture Kit Co  MI   800-742-2110
Brew and Grow             MN   800-230-8191
Pine Cheese Mart          MN   800-596-2739
James Page Brewery        MN   800-347-4042             
Semplex                   MN   800-488-5444  jiminmpls at aol.com      
Wind River Brewing        MN   800-266-4677
The Home Brewery          MO   800-321-2739                       
Alternative Beverage      NC   800-365-2739                       
BrewBetter Supply         NC                 Brewbetter at aol.com
Stout Billy's             NH   800-392-4792
Coyote Home Brewing Suply NM   800-779-2739 
The Brewmeister           NJ   800-322-3020
Red Bank Brewing Supply   NJ   800-779-7507                     
Brew By You               NY   800-986-2739
Brewers Den               NY   800-449-2739
The Brewery               NY   800-762-2560
Hennessey Homebrew        NY   800-462-7397
The Hoppy Troll           NY   800-735-2739
New York Homebrew         NY   800-966-2739                         
Great Lakes Brew Supply   NY   800-859-4527                  
US Brewing Supply         NY   800-383-9303
The Grape & Granary       OH   800-695-9870                 
Brew Ha Ha                PA   800-243-2620
Beer Unlimited            PA   800-515-0666
U-Brew                    SC   800-845-4441
BrewHaus                  TN   800-638-2437                   
DeFalco's                 TX   800-216-2739
Homebrew Sup. of Dallas   TX   800-270-5922
St. Patrick's of Texas    TX                 stpats at wixer.bga.com
The Brewer's Club         VA   800-827-3948
HomeBrew International    VA   800-447-4883
Something's Brewing       VA                 tayers at aol.com
The Homebrew Store        WA   800-827-2739
Evergreen Brewing Sup.    WA   800-789-2739
Jim's Homebrew            WA   800 326-7769
The Cellar                WA   800-342-1871                          
The Stumbling Dwarf       WA   800-789-4273
Belle City                WI   800-236-6258            
Market Basket             WI   800-824-5562
North Brewing Supply      WI   800-483-7238
The Brew Place            WI   800-847-6721           
The Malt Shop             WI   800-235-0026
U.S. Brewing Supply            800-728-2337
BrewShack                      800-646-2739
Highlander                     800-388-3923
Hoptech                        800-379-4677
Stout Billy's                  800-392-4792


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 06 Dec 94 13:26:40 EST
From: "Harralson, Kirk" <kwh at roadnet.ups.com>
Subject: Champagne bottles, Fermentaps, faux lambics

Stephen Tinsley writes about Champagne Bottles:

>champagne bottles (I spelled it wrong yesterday) are an excellent way to
>bottle beer, and that American bottles work and foreign bottles don't.
   <snip>
> Again, go to your nearest recycle center, especially around the
>holidays.  I have been told that the green glass doesn't even have any

A better alternative is to find a local restaurant with a champagne brunch and 
ask if you can take them.  I have about ten cases of champagne bottles (along 
with the original boxes) that came from one place.  They are much easier to 
rinse if you get to them within an hour or so.  These have several advantages --
they hold more, most have a concave bottom that traps yeast settlement and they 
are made with VERY thick glass.  I dropped a full bottle on concrete from waist 
level and it did not break.  Disadvantages include not fitting on the top rack 
of my dishwasher (this is a huge disadvantage to me), they will not fit upright 
in my refrigerator except on the top shelf and somtimes I'm in the mood to only 
have 12 ounces (very, very rare).  You can also bottle wine in these bottles, 
but the id of the neck is smaller, and you have to really force the cork in.  
Surprisingly, they aren't that bad to get out.  I have also tried using the 
plastic corks with wire wrappers for sparkling meads, but either they did not 
contain the pressure or my mead decided not to sparkle...

Pete Misiaszek writes about the FERMENTAP:

>I purchased two Fermentaps about a month ago and have put them through
>their paces.  I have to say, I like them alot.  What the Fermentap consists
    <snip>
>harvesting as well as draw-off of spent hops and break.  By connecting two
>in series, CO2 from the primary can be vented into the secondary to purge
>it, and the beer can be racked to the secondary "closed-system" without
>siphoning.  The parts seem to be top quality, and the service has been

I thought one of the big advantages to these systems was that primary and 
secondary fermentation could be done in the same carboy by simply draining the 
break material, spent hops, etc..  Has anyone had any trouble with these 
leaking?  I have heard only positive comments about these and I am considering 
buying a couple.


Timothy P. Laatsch writes about Lindeman Kriek Lambic:

>I recently had my first opportunity to taste an "authentic" Belgian Kriek 
>Lambic.  It's made by a company called Lindeman's and comes in a miniature 
    <snip>
>a cherry beer/champagne.  It was certainly drinkable, but just not what I was 
>expecting based on what I've read.  My question to the more seasoned 
>imbibers:  Is this typical of the style or did I just purchase an expensive 
>dud?  Thanks for your patience.  BREW ON!

Someone else wrote recently that Samuel Adams Cranberry Lambic was not actually 
a lambic at all.  This is the only "lambic" I have ever tried, and I liked it 
quite a bit.  I have been looking at lambic recipes and thinking about making 
something similar to SA.  If this is not a lambic, I guess I have no idea what 
one tastes like either.  What would SA Cranberry Lambic actually be classified 
as? No matter what it is, I would still like to make something like it.

Kirk Harralson
Bel Air, Maryland


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Date: Tue, 6 Dec 94 14:08:35 EST
From: fastarke at rickstr.mawes.ingr.com (Rick Starke)
Subject: Aeration - To easy to be healthy?

  Good day Brew Crew,

  A while ago there was a thread regarding improving the performance of your
  little yeastie dudes by ensuring proper aeration. I had never really thought
  to much about this, but I took it to heart, and, after pitching, commenced
  to shaking/stirring until my need for oxygen was greater than my yeasties.
  Well, of course, like the rest of the collective wisdom here, this added the
  desired effect (a more vigorous/complete ferment)... mostly. One day while
  chilling a batch of Cranberry-Honey Porter, and sending my little yeastie
  beasties for their before dinner bath (rehydrating), I was contemplating this
  "Aeration thing" and decided to try pouring the cooled, sterile wort through
  the strainer I use for sparging, (plain old SS basket screen kitchen type
  strainer) ala' your kitchen faucet aerator. I poured about 1/3 of my 1.060
  wort in through the strainer (lotsa bubbles) sent my yeastie dudes in for  
  dinner, and poured the rest of my wort in through the strainer. (lots more
  bubbles) A very vigorous ferment started within hours and my brew was down
  to 1.010 within a week (that was when I checked it). As for an unscientific
  data point, my brother brewed a Porter the next week which he didn't do this
  to, 1.048, and we wound up bottling at 1.022 (with our fingers crossed). Two
  weeks later we brewed a Pale Ale, used this method (same yeasty family-Edme)
  and that dropped to 1.011 in a week.

  My question... what's wrong with this, it seems to easy. I am more into the
  hobby/art of brewing than the "science". I understand that pouring my cooled
  sterile wort through the air could induce nasties, but I figure if beer was
  brewed in the "old days" by people who rarely even bathed, I won't kill mine
  by pouring through a strainer. I am not really worried, I more want to know
  if I happened upon a cheap, easy way that may benefit others without worrying
  about aquarium pumps, airstones, inline oxygen injection and saturation
  points. 

  By the way, after many worries, the Cran-Honey Porter will probably be OK...
  preliminary tastings indicate the possibility that I used too much cranberry
  (4.5 lbs), The regular porter tasted GREAT at bottling, but hasn't been
   "officially" taste tested yet. The Pale Ale is in secondary, and I am 
  preparing to sacrifice more virgin (never flocculated) yeastie dudes. Maybe
  an Imperial Stout.... hmmm.

  Back to "Lurker-land"
  
                                            
     Rick Starke                        
  fastarke at ingr.com                         

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Date: Tue, 6 Dec 1994 11:47:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com>
Subject: FOOP

Both Don Rudolph and Maribeth Raines mention fried eggs and the
agglutination/coagulation of albumin as an analogy for the proposed
mechanism of FOOP.  First albumin is a complete globular protein, not a
short peptide.  Second, frying/poaching/scrambling an egg at temperatures
at or above the boiling point of water is a considerably more drastic
action than shaking cold beer in a keg.  I don't think that you can use a
fried egg as an analogy for, or an example of, FOOP. 

That said, and after following the discussion, I must say that the
argument that denatured peptides will in some measure associate with each
other, i.e., agglutinate, and thereby no longer be available for foam
production has merit.  I've also been convinced that the breaking of
chemical bonds is not a factor in FOOP.  There are still a lot of "ifs". 
If FOOP is a real phenomenon.  If the hydrodynamics drives the refolding
equilibrium to the agglutination side.  If agglutination actually removes
peptides from foam production. 

Some tests come to mind.  

Just shaking beer flat beer should reduce its foam production.  This is a
qualitative test of the existence of FOOP. 

If denatured peptide agglutination is a factor then boiling beer and
rechilling should reduce foam production considerably, although I
routinely do 2 hr boils and get good breaks, my beers foam just fine. 

Also, I think I just contradicted my first paragraph.  Maybe nobody noticed.

Shaking beer should alter the molecular weight profile of the protein.  If
FOOP exists and is due to bond breakage then the profile should move to
lighter (shorter) peptides, if agglutination is a factor then the profile
should get heavier. 

I know that I can do the first test easily, just flatten some beer (gently
pour into a bowl and allow to outgas for 24 hrs) then put a measured
amount in a graduated cylinder, stopper and shake (by hand) a given
amount.  Measure and note the height of the foam.  Shake the remaining
beer on a lab shaker for 24 hrs and repeat the hand shake test.  If enough
people do it perhaps we can come to a consensus.  Send me your protocols
and your results and I'll compile them. 

The second test (boiling) can also be done using the hand shake test. 
Again send me your protocols and your results. 

Domenick Venezia
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia at zgi.com



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Date: Tue, 06 Dec 94 13:55:37 CST
From: FFWJOHN at MIZZOU1.missouri.edu
Subject: carboy glug-no-more

Here's a tip for users of narrow mouth glass carboys. It is
impossible to pour liquids from these carboys with a lot of
sloppy glugging as air is sucked in through the liquid stream.
A simple homemade vent will cure the problem. Use a length of
old siphon tubing a foot or so long. Bend the piece of tubing
into a U-shape. Insert one end into the carboy past the neck
of the opening. Hold the other end along the outside of the
carboy. If you are using a carboy handle, you can use the handle
to hold the outside portion of the tubing in place.

Clean pouring - no more splashing cleaning solutions - and the
carboy will drain MUCH faster than before.

 -John Krstansky

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Date: 6 Dec 94 19:21:00 GMT
From: mlm01 at intgp1.att.com (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132)
Subject: Sam Adams <TM> Hops

This is not an advertisement for nor support of Samuel Adams.

I came across an ad that stated Boston Beer Co. <TM> was offering the
same hops that are used in Sam Adams <TM> beers (Hallertau Mittlefreuh)
for sale to the public. I remember the radio ad and the picture in Boston 
Beer Co.'s <TM> newsletter showing Jim Koch <TM> handpicking whole flower 
Noble Hops.  I thought that I would like to try these hops, at $12/pound 
and no shipping - not too bad of a deal. 2 months went by, then I finally
received a package from Boston Beer Company. I opened the package, and to my
surprise i found pellet hops. Now I use pellet hops on occasion, but I had
assumed that Sam Adams <TM> was made with whole flower hops. I still don't
have a problem with pellet hops, but why does Jim Koch <TM> go to the
trouble to say that all his hops are hand picked. I didn't know that there
was a big difference between 1 pellet or another. Oh well, enough rambling.
I need a beer.

Mike Montgomery
mlm01 at intgp1.att.com



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Date: 6 Dec 1994 14:45:11 -0800
From: "Dave Suurballe" <suurb at farallon.com>
Subject: Sam Adams Triple Bock

The bottle label of Sam Adams Triple Bock says it's made in
Ceres, California.  I don't know of any breweries over there;
are there any readers in the Modesto area that can help
identify the source of this beer?  I know there's some
wineries around there, like Gallo, but I hesitate to think...

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Date: Tue, 6 Dec 94 13:58:19 PST
From: JSTONE at SJEVM5.VNET.IBM.COM
Subject:  Pots/Temperature Control

  For those of you considering spending the money for a Sabco pot, you
may want to consider an alternative.  I purchased two 15G SS Vollrath pots
(with lids) from Something's Brewing in Vermont, 802-660-9007, for $155,
each.  Something's Brewing had the pots shipped directly from Vollrath (in
Wisconsin) to Precision Brewing Systems (PBS) in Stanton Island, 718-667-4459.
Ask for Ellen (at Something's Brewing) and mention my name if they have
questions regarding direct shipping the pots.

  PBS offers a number of modifications:  bottom drains, thermometer welds,
false bottoms, ... and they will entertain custom modifications as well.
For my sparge vessel, I had them weld a SS 0.5" fitting and SS 1" fitting
adjacent to one another, approximately 2" up from the bottom of the pot.
The 0.5" fitting accepts a thermowell and an I.C. temperature sensor and
the 1" fitting accepts a hot water heater element.  The hot water heater
element is NOT a standard 1" pipe thread.  PBS had the fitting custom
made.  If you're interested in the hot water heater element fitting, ask
for Ken, mention my name and I'm sure they'll fix you up.

  In my opinion, their workmanship is excellent.  Their false bottom is an 18
gauge SS disk with punched holes, custom-made for a (relatively) tight fit.
One of the disadvantages of this geometry, as opposed to say an EM or slotted
pipe, is the fact that a significant amount of recirculation is required to
establish the grain bed.  I had a terrible time with astringency until I
introduced a recirculating pump into the system.  Initially, I used the pump
to recirculate during mash out (10 - 15 minutes).  This seemed to adequately
clear the wort while minimizing HSA.

  With my automated system, which involves a water heater element in the
recirculating path, the wort will be recirculated through the duration of
the mash.

  In a prior append, Don (DONBREW) mentioned variations on the Rodney Morris
temperature controller circuit.  Up to this point in its development, I'm
very happy with my decision to use solid state relays (SSRs) as my main
temperature controller circuit.  Having a PC (with an I/O card) at the heart
of the system makes temperature control trivial (and in my opinion, somewhat
elegant).  The temperature is read by the PC from an I.C. temperature sensor
and used to control the state of the SSR (on or off).  I've been experimenting
with the control algorithm.  Initial measurements suggest I can hit a target
temperature with no more than 1 oF of overshoot and maintain the temperature
within +-0.5 oF.  I've only tested the algorithm against limited volumes of
sparge water.  I hope to begin testing full volumes and the recirculating
path within a week.

  For Don, who's looking for a cheap solution, I'm not sure I can help.  I
consider Bob McIlvaine an expert in this area (temperature controllers and
monitors ... not cheap ;*).  A number of his products are available through
JB Distributing, 603-465-7633, including a temperature sensor with SW which
utilizes the printer port of a PC.  Dion also has a lot of experience in this
area.  Last time I talked to Dion (HOLLEN), he was still working on perfecting
a board for a Morris-like temperature controller.  I suspect these guys will
tell you that the difficulty in integrating a PC with a Morris-like controller
is interfacing a TTL-level signal from a PC into a 110 V circuit (a problem I
solved using the SSR).

Joe

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Date: Tue, 06 Dec 1994 16:45:24 -0600
From: MHANSEN at ctdmc.pmeh.uiowa.edu
Subject:  Aeration procedures / Hop Teas

Hey HBDers,

With all this talk about aeration, a procedural question comes to mind.
After the wort is cooled and siphoned into the carboy, many authorities
suggest letting the wort sit overnight and then to rack the beer off the
cold break. What is the proper order of racking off cold break, pitching,
and aerating? At this point, I am more concerned with aerating and
pitching than I am with racking off the cold break. However, I don't have
the best temperature control (crack the window, close the window,
crack the window, etc.) and I am concerned with fusel alcohols being
formed from trub and warm fermentation temps. If I aerate and then pitch,
fermentation is almost always going after 6-8 hours after which it
becomes impossible for obvious reasons to rack off the cold break.
Should I be that concerned with fermenting with cold break and other
stuff that passes through the strainer? Or just aerate, pitch, and forget
it?

Question two about aeration: For those who use aquarium pumps, what
size do you use? 
- ---
I recently bottled a Christmas ale that wasn't bitter enough and I wanted
to add more bitterness. Has anyone ever made a hop tea and added it at
bottling time to add bitterness or even flavor/aroma? What I am looking for
is some way to quantify H oz of hops in W amount of water boiled for T
minutes to give me X IBU's when added to Y gallons of beer. Can
someone point me to a source or help me out? Will standard IBU
calculations (Rager, Garetz, etc.) work here? I am aware of bottled hop
oil but I am not sure I want to use it.

Thanks and brew on my friends,
Mike  (michael-d-hansen at uiowa.edu)


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Date: Wed, 7 Dec 94 6:06:00 EST
From: Evan Kraus <ejk at bselab.BLS.COM>
Subject: GLATT MILL INTEGRITY




This post is not an advertisement
After hearing all this KRAP about the MM and the Glatt
Well I have one of the original Glatt's 
To Date I have MILLED (Less then one year) 
542 POUNDS OF YOU NAME IT MALT, PALE, CHOCOLATE, BLACK, CRYSTAL, ROASTED,
WHEAT, RICE ETC !!!!! AND PLENTY OF ROCKS !!!!!
With a Right angle Drill attached to the GLATT that runs 500 RPM
WELL MY PLASTIC GEARS SHOW NO WEAR AND HAVENT FAILED YET
WHY NOT STOP THE ATTACKS BETWEEN GLATT & MM


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Date:     Wed, 7 Dec 94 7:38:44 EST
From: Chris Barnhart <clbarnha at letterkenn-emh1.army.mil>
Subject:  Roller Mill Project Complete

Hi all,
Thought I would post the results of my recent roller mill project. 
First of all, thanks to all the folks who contributed valuable
insight during the initial concept formulation.

   My overall goal was to design an adjustable mill using mostly
common, easily obtained parts that is relatively easy to build. The
end result is a mill with these features: 

 - 2" diameter steel rollers, diamond knurled, supported by sealed
ball bearings.

 - Motor driven 
   
 - All major assemblies made from hardwood, masonite or particle
board.

 - Cost about $100.  Lower, if you're a good scrounger (My cost was
$57.00 including the motor!).

 For those interested, I have written a description of the project
with bill of materials and a full set (seven) of dimensioned
drawings.  Send me a private E-Mail with your snail-mail address
for a copy.


Chris "Barny" Barnhart
clbarnha at letterkenn-emh1.army.mil 

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Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 07:59:25 -0500
From: MicahM1269 at aol.com
Subject: smoking grains

Smoking Grains
	This is one area of home brewing where I have be told that I have gone too
far, but with
success. I do not have a smoker but I have worked out a way to produce very
good smoked
malt. I use unmalted dried barley ( whole ) let it soak for several days at
50 F then sprout the
grains, let acrospire grown to about 1 inch. And then I put the green malt in
a roasting pan with
many, many small holes punched in it. This is then placed in my bar b que
over smoldering
wood chips. The chips have been soaked in water for several days prior to
prevent burning. I
usually smoke the barley this way over night. After smoking I finish dring
the malt in the oven at
the lowest temperature possible. This may seem like a lot of work but it will
result in excellent
and genuine smoked malt rather than malt that is smoked.
 micah millspaw - brewer at large 

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Date:  7 Dec 94  8:21:17 EDT
From: Jim Ancona <Jim_Ancona.DBS at dbsnotes.dbsoftware.com>
Subject: Re: Steam Bock

In HBD 1598, Jeff Guillet writes:
>Pity me.  I am refrigerator challenged and have no way of lagering.
>
>I would, however, like to make a bock (maybe even a dopplebock) using 
>Wyeast's California Lager (#2112) and the low temperatures this time of 
>year in my garage.  Temps range from 38-52F.

I tried the 2112 this fall for a Vienna which I'm very happy with. I then made 
a Dopplebock, using the yeast cake from the Vienna as a starter. I just bottled 
it last week. It tasted very good at bottling time, and I hope will get better 
with cold storage.  Both beers were fermented mostly in the 50-58 degree range 
in a root cellar (part of my basement). Both are quite malty and the Vienna has 
'lagered' nicely into a very smooth tasting brew, one of my best. I have high 
hopes for the Dopplebock as well. My 'lagering' involves storing the bottled 
beer at temps in the 40's (too high for real lagering). So I say, go for it!

As an aside, the yeast FAQ says, "highly flocculant, clear brilliantly" and 
it's not kidding. Both beers are crystal clear, and what little yeast there is 
in the bottle attaches itself to the bottom and sides of the bottle. No 
sediment when pouring this stuff, but I have to use the bottle brush on each 
bottle while rinsing to clean the yeast out!

Good luck!
- --
Jim Ancona               janco at dbsoftware.com               jpa at iii.net
Opinions expressed are my own, and not those of D&B Software.


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Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 07:49:16 -0600
From: keithfrank at dow.com (Keith Frank)
Subject: Re:  Water Heater Conversion

Many years ago, my water heater died also.  I removed the burner, mounted 
it in a 5 gal. can, and obtained a grating for the top to set my brew pot 
on.  I spent a couple of bucks to change the orifice to the appropriate 
size for propane and voila!  I have been using this burner for years and 
love it.  It even has a pilot light.  I have no trouble getting a rolling 
boil in 5 or 6 gal. in a short period of time.

Keith Frank (keithfrank at dow.com)
Lake Jackson, Texas

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Date: 7  Dec 1994 09:15:11 -0500
From: George Kavanagh O/o <George.Kavanagh at omail.wang.com>
Subject: Don't Throw it out!

In HBD 1598, M_MACADAMS at mail.chester.co.pa.us writes:

>Everything seemed to go o.k. and the O.G. was 1.048.  This was
>four days ago and I have seen no action in my "S" airlock, not
>even off-placed water levels.  Yesterday I checked the gravity of
>the wort and even though there has been no bubbling, the level is
>down to 1.014.  Is it possible that fermentation occurred without
>me realizing it?  Does a lower hydrometer reading necessarily
>mean that fermentation is/has occurred?  Should I keep taking
>hydrometer readings until it levels off, or should I scrap the
>batch and try again?

Don't scrap it; finish it off!

If the gravity has fallen, there has been fermentation.

You didn't say what type of fermenting vessel you are using:
began with a plastic bucket that came with a "beginner homebrewer
kit",  and noticed that the lid dosent fit air-tight.  Result being that
initially the airlock bubbled rapidly as large volumes of gas were
produced, but then when the fermentation settled down to a lesser
rate, the air lock didn't bubble, the gas escaped elsewhere rather
than push up the airlock's water to make bubbles.  I initially panicked,
since I had been looking forward to watching the bubbles for
several days.  The beer, however,  was fine.

Depending on the composition of the extract you used, and the fermentation
temp., fermentation may not proceed much past the 1014 you now read.

Relax, etc....

 -gk  ( George.Kavanagh at omail.wang.com )    

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Date: Wed, 7 Dec 94 08:27 CST
From: chuckmw at mcs.com (Charles Wettergreen)
Subject: UNANTICIPATED FERM TEMP  

To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com

Here, I think, is an interesting data point.

I had cooled my 1.090 wee heavy down to 65 degF prior to pitching one quart
of Wyeast Scotch Ale yeast (1968?) (slurry). After aeration with an
aquarium pump, I attached the blowoff tube and a Fermometer (liquid crystal
temperature display, stick-on) to the carboy. I cover my carboys with
quilted carboy cosies to protect from light and prevent temperature
fluctuations.

I usually ferment my Scotch ales in the refrigerator at 50 degrees, but for a 
variety of reasons I decided to ferment this one in my 66 degree basement. 
After several hours I checked on the state of the ferment. The fermentation
was proceeding nicely with bubbles out of the blowoff tube about every three 
seconds.

Imagine my surprise when the Fermometer showed that the carboy was at 74 
degrees! I checked my recording thermometer and the temperature was 66
degrees, and had only varied between 66 and 68 degrees. As the fermentation 
picked up, to the point where the foam began to blow out the tube and bubbles 
were coming out almost continuously, the Fermometer temperature continued to 
rise. I don't know where it finished because it was off the scale (>78
degrees) of the Fermometer.  Once the bulk of the fermentation had finished,
the Fermometer temperature dropped back down to ambient temperature (68
degrees).

I've checked my thermometers and the Fermometer and I have every reason to 
believe that they are reasonably accurate, keeping in mind that the Fermometer 
*is* a liquid crystal and only indicates in 2 degree increments.

I think this might explain esters in a brew that were not anticipated because 
they were fermented at "cooler" temperatures.

Chuck


/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*
   Chuck Wettergreen
   Chuckmw at mcs.com
   Geneva, Illinois
/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*

 * RM 1.3  * 
                                                        

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1599, 12/08/94