HOMEBREW Digest #1627 Tue 10 January 1995

Digest #1626 Digest #1628

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Scotch Ales, Newbie info, Champagne bottles ("Lee Bussy")
  Water Treatment Spreadsheet (Evan Kraus)
  Cats Meow for $$$ ??? (STAUFFER ERIC B)
  ALL GRAIN (Schwab_Bryan)
  Re: Champagne Bottle & Capping (Matthew J. Harper)
  Upcoming Beer Tasting (volfie)
  Beer software (Ed Hitchcock)
  Cornelius poppets (Lee Bollard)
  Cajun Kooker HELP ("Steve P. Biggins")
  RE: water chemistry (Jim Dipalma)
  How about Macintosh Brewers software (Mark Evans)
  cleaning kegs (How come the future takes such a long time to come when you're waiting for a miracle  09-Jan-1995 1111 -0500)
  Brewers of South Suburbia Competition (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Re: "Microwave" (Greg Owen {gowen})
  no fermentation (chc2)
  BrewSacks (EDGELL)
  churchkey? (Jeanne Reil STEAP-IMIS 5320)
  HBD QUALITY (mdemers)
  Potassium Sorbate (spencert)
  5th Dukes of Ale Spring Thing Beer Comp (sysop)
  Boiling Water & microwaves (Rich Larsen)
  2 liter Pop bottles, Chili peppers, and miscellany (dbrigham)
  oven use/yeast test/private posting (RONALD DWELLE)
  Need recipe for Malta... (Joe Pearl)
  Cold Ferment (M.Marshburn/D202)
  Temporary & Permanent hardness (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Re: Keg Crimes (hopefully, the final word) (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Yet another water question (MHANSEN)
  The Beer Basics (Shawn Steele)
  RE:mashing/Gott cooler (Jim Busch)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 05:29:10 +0000 From: "Lee Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Scotch Ales, Newbie info, Champagne bottles Tim Laatsch asks about a foul smell from his 1728: I have used this strain for some of my scotch ales and have noticed a tendency towards phenolics when fermented warm (>70 deg F). These could be described as smokey perhaps. Maybe you could decant the fermented starter and allow it to settle in the fridge for a few days and see if the flavor/odor subsides. It may be just a part of the fermentation. ============= Cheryl Bann asks about beginner's info: Cherryl, check the archives at ee.stanford.edu, there is more info in there than I or anyone else can relate to you in the way of an answer. Also look for Charlie Papazian's "The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing" published by (I think) Avon. Should be available just about everywhere. =================== Tom Puskar asks about regular caps fitting Champagne bottles: Tom, you will probably need to use a bench style capper for the reasons you found. I don't know of a brand of champagne bottles that will work with a twin-lever type (there may be some). Also, some european bottles will not accept a regular cap. I think they are larger (?). - -- -Lee Bussy | The 4 Basic Foodgroups.... | leeb at southwind.net | Salt, Fat, Beer & Women! | Wichita, Kansas | http://www.southwind.net/~leeb | Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 7:57:21 EST From: Evan Kraus <ejk at bselab.BLS.COM> Subject: Water Treatment Spreadsheet In an article by Karl King in the Sept/Oct issue of Brewing Techniques he gave the information needed to construct a spreadsheet to modify brewing water based on the existing compounds in your water. After several trys to make the sheet work in Excel and not getting the proper results even after duplicating the exact data in the article I emailed the editor of BT who returned mail to me telling me that the author would get back to me. Well after a year I havent heard from him. Has anyone sucessfully made the spreadsheet work ????? If you have please email it to me. Thanks Evan Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Jan 1995 13:27:57 +0000 (GMT) From: STAUFFER ERIC B <STAUFFER_ERIC_B at Lilly.com> Subject: Cats Meow for $$$ ??? Not to be a stodge who thinks the net should be only for people to share info freely but... I was browsing through the Wine/Beer forum on Compu$erve and noticed that someone had created a searchable database from the Cats Meow and was charging $25.00 for it. Although I haven't brewed in a while I thought I remembered seeing in the preface that you couldn't charge $$ for the CM. Am I mistaken? For the free disemination of info, Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 08:03:00 CST From: Schwab_Bryan at lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil Subject: ALL GRAIN Well HBR's I did it and it wasn't all bad either. For those newbies out there who are still entertaining the idea to convert to All Grain, go ahead and take the plunge, it is not as bad as what you may read or hear. I did my frist All Grain yesterday and to my amazement, it was actually quite easy and interesting. Sure the allotted time is abit more, but you could use that time to really appreciate your past pleasure in the extract or partial grain world and put them to rest, respectfully, ( I did it with C.P. Rocky Road Honey Lager) and take pleasure knowing that "Change is Good", in order to develop, one must grow. So.... I made a German Bock from a Grain Kit that my supplier "The Brew Shack" out of Tampa Fl put together for me ( no affliation) and just went at it. Total time of process, from heating the H20 through cool down took just over 4hrs, but the process was worth it, the pleasure in watching the conversions taking place and using Wyeast cultures are interesting as well (if it takes, that will be even more interesting!). Gravity was at 1.064 at the end of the process prior to going into the primary, and the auxillary refrigerator was set at 58 degrees, so now it is a waiting game. If anyone want the specifics as to the recipe E-mail me at; {SCHWAB_Bryan at LANMAIL.NCSC.NAVY.MIL}:DDN:NAVY Bryan Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 09:18:06 EST From: matth at bedford.progress.COM (Matthew J. Harper) Subject: Re: Champagne Bottle & Capping In digest 1626 Tom Puskar relates his woes in trying to cap the biggies with his dual lever capper. Bad ness for you Tom, in general it won't work. What *will* work though is a good old bench capper. Having been fortunate to been given an old work horse of this type a number of years ago I can tell you I have yet to find a cappable bottle that I cannot cap with it. Your problem is not new. I believ (from everything I have seen written on the issue) that the neck of most champagne bottles are to thick or tall between the top of the bottle and where the grippers in your level model grab the bottle to squeeze the cap on tight. As for what champagne bottles to use, if the top looks like it will take a cap, chances are it will. Korbel bottles work great! -Matth - -- Matthew J. Harper | Quality Architect | {disclaimer.i} Progress Software Corp.| DoD #1149 | EGfc #0xed God created heaven and earth to grow barley and hops. Now he homebrews. The most damaging phrase in the language is "We've always done it this way". Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 09:48:23 -0500 From: volfie at echonyc.com Subject: Upcoming Beer Tasting <<MESSAGE from>> Mermaid 09-JAN-95 9:48 volfie at echonyc The Vacamas/TOP Council is a group of young professionals who raise money and support the programs of Camp Vacamas Association, a non-profit agency serving at-risk and underprivileged kids. We are holding our second annual Beer Tasting in late April at the Puck Building in New York City. I will post information on attending as it becomes available. Meanwhile, we are looking for just a few homebrewers (maybe 3 or 4) to bring a couple of gallons each to supplement the standard fare of microbrewery products. Anyone interested? You can reach me at volfie at echonyc.com for further details. Or you can come to our next meeting, which will be held at the offices of Beatie, King & Abate 599 Lexington Avenue, 13th Floor (at 53rd St.), on January 17 at 7:00 pm. We are a very fun group of people working for a great cause and we could use some help. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 11:25:51 -0400 (AST) From: Ed Hitchcock <ehitchcock at sparc.uccb.ns.ca> Subject: Beer software While the beer software thread is going around again, I will mention that the file recipe-edit.zip at the archive site is a DOS freeware recipe editor. It will save recipes to disk, and is fairly intuitive to use. It will run on an XT with CGA (was in fact programmed on such a beast) and works best with a mouse. The hop utilization takes account of whether you are using plugs, pellets, or whole hops. ---------------- Ed Hitchcock, now on the right side of the student/staff division ehitchcock at sparc.uccb.ns.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 7:38:44 PST From: Lee Bollard <bollard at spk.hp.com> Subject: Cornelius poppets I have 3 Cornelius (brand) kegs with leaky poppets. These are standard kegs with the black handle (not the "full" rubber top). They are ball-lock, Pepsi-style kegs. I bought replacement poppets for these kegs, but after installing them my sockets would "bottom-out" before locking in place. It felt like the sockets needed to travel 1/16" farther onto the shell for the locking ring to pop into the locked position. Wrong poppets? I hear that there is only one poppet style for Cornelius brand kegs. If this is true, what course of action should I take to resolve this problem? - --- Regards, Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 10:42:41 EST From: "Steve P. Biggins" <spb at tfn.com> Subject: Cajun Kooker HELP Hello Brewers, I am planning on making the move to an all-grain brewing. I have two sankey Kegs and was hoping to get any suggestion about Propane cookers. I know that there are things called cajun kooker, and King Kookers etc... I just want to know: 1) What is best for the Sankey Kegs. 2) Were can I get them. TIA, Steve B. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 10:53:58 EST From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) Subject: RE: water chemistry Hi All, In HBD#1623, I wrote: >>My understanding is that the number for total hardness is comprised of the >>temporary hardness and permanent hardness. The former is that which is caused >>by the presence of carbonates and can be removed by boiling, whereas permanent >>hardness is due to the presence of sulfate and cannot be removed by boiling. To which Al K. responded: >Not quite. My knowledge of water chemistry is not as strong as I would >like it to be, but there are some things of which I'm quite sure. Permanent >hardness is primarily from the calcium and the magnesium in the water. Permanent hardness is the calcium and magnesium that remains in solution with the sulfate ion. If the calcium and magnesium precipitates out with the bicarbonates after boiling, the hardness is temporary. Here's what Noonan has to say on this subject, "Brewing Lager Beer", p. 47: "That part of the calcium and magnesium in solution that precipitates out with the bicarbonates during boiling cannot be calculated to support yeast activity. This is know as temporary or carbonate hardness of water. After boiling, the calcium and magnesium ions that remain in solution with the sulfate ion form permanent or noncarbonate hardness." >My >understanding is also that carbonates have a very strong ability to lower >the pH Actually, carbonates provide a strong alkalinity buffer that *resists* drops in pH. This is one reason why many dark beer styles originated in cities with highly carbonate water, such as Dublin and Munich. The carbonate buffers the mash, and prevents over acidification from dark malts. >>Here I must disagree. My first few attempts at pale ales using this type of >>water had a horribly harsh bitterness. I eventually traced the problem to >>high carbonate levels and hopping levels that were appropriately high for >>the style (30-35 IBUs). >Are you sure Jim? Consider that Dublin water is very, very high in carbonates >and that Guinness is quite highly hopped (50 IBUs comes to mind, but don't >quote me on this) and is certainly not harshly bitter. I believe that the >flavour effect of carbonates in beer is to reduce the sourness that can occur >with dark malts. Yes, I'm quite sure. My first few attempts at brewing all-grain pale ale were not exactly stunning successes. I had a lot of trouble getting the mash pH right, and the beers had a harsh bitterness that rendered them nearly undrinkable. Pre-boiling the mash and sparge water and allowing the bicarbonate to precipitate out overnight solved both problems. While it's true that Guinness is highly hopped, and it's bitterness is not harsh, I'm not sure it's a valid counterexample. It's a stout, the grain bill has a high percentage of roasted barley and dark roasted malts, whereas a pale ale has neither. My personal experience aside, the undesirable effects of brewing pale, highly hopped beers with high carbonate water is fairly well documented. Noonan, "Brewing Lager Beer", p. 52: "It contributes a harsh, bitter flavor overwhelming in delicate lagers, and carbonate in excess of 200 ppm (which my water has - Jim) is tolerable only when a dark roasted malt is used to buffer its excessive acidity. Preferably, carbonate should be less than 50 ppm when pale malt or infusion mashing is used." Darryl Richman, "Bock", p. 39: "The bitter character of even the finest noble hops rapidly becomes harsh in very carbonate water." "Also, a high hopping rate would be exaggerated by the carbonate induced harshness," Darryl Richman, "Bock", p. 68: "Carbonate waters have been called 'hop savers', but in fact, they emphasize the strong bitterness of the hops, and tend to hide the finer flavors. High alpha acid hops are particularly affected by this, and yield very rough, coarse flavors that quickly become unpleasant." >>The hardness in the water at Burton-on-Trent, home >>of the pale ale style, is due to high *sulfate* content. The sulfate content >>of the water emphasizes hop bitterness and flavor in a clean, pleasant manner. >Hmmm? Again, I'm not sure I agree. The hardness in the water of Burton- >on-Trent is due to the calcium and, since this apparently comes from >Gypsum in the ground, the sulphate levels are correspondingly high. This was a rather ugly mis-statement on my part, though it's also somewhat out of context. The original poster cited a figure of only 14 ppm sulfate in his water, the point I was trying to make was the high level of sulfate in the water at Burton-on-Trent (over 500 ppm if memory serves, don't quote me) and the effect this has on hop bitterness and flavor. I then recommended the addition of 1/2 teaspoon of gypsum directly to the kettle at the start of the boil to boost the sulfate content. I don't think it's necessarily desirable to emulate specific water profiles, and it may not even be possible, but I do think a little judicious tinkering can help. Cheers, Jim dipalma at sky.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 10:29:25 -0600 From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans) Subject: How about Macintosh Brewers software Once again all this talk about brewers software has my interest piqued. The last time I fished around for shareware (e.g. from Sierra) I found everything uncompatible with the mac system (or you had to run Excel or something). What about it? anybody know of any brew/recipe formulation shareware/software for mac systems? Seems like Hypercard would be a good engine for something like this. ('Course, what would I know? I am NOT a programmer). mark Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 11:13:18 EST From: How come the future takes such a long time to come when you're waiting for a miracle 09-Jan-1995 1111 -0500 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> Subject: cleaning kegs >Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 07:35:43 -0800 (PST) >From: sag at atreides.ca.boeing.com (Stuart Galt) >Subject: Quick Sanke questions > >Hello, > >How can one scrub/clean any residue out of the keg? With a soda keg you just >reach in there and scrub, but I can't get my hand in the little hole on a >sankey keg. Is there some cleaning solution that I should be using? and if >so where does one acquire it? use a water and TSP solution. this will work very well. basically, mix up a TSP solution concentrate, put it in the keg, then fill the keg to the top. shake it up and let it sit for 2-3 days. then, rinse it. becareful using TSP, it is nasty stuff. also, be sure to get non-cloronated TSP. jc Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Jan 95 17:30:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Brewers of South Suburbia Competition The registration packets are ready, so if you want more information on the Brewers of South Suburbia Homebrew Competition, please send me your USnail address or call me at 708-430-HOPS. The competition will be judged March 25th in a southwestern suburb of Chicago and has been sponsored with over $600 in prizes. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 09:38:49 PST From: gowen at xis.xerox.com (Greg Owen {gowen}) Subject: Re: "Microwave" molloy at cpcs3.dnet.etn.com writes: > So what does this have to do with Beer? I use the quick clean methods > of sterilization so any easy extra methods I can do, help. After a quick > bleach wash I use the microwave to sanitize hard to clean parts like > spickets, hoses, hose ends, etc... Just a quick warning -- I'd advise against doing this with anything glass. I tried to microwave-sanitize a glass bottle once and after I took it out, it touched some room-temp water and BOOM! Greg Owen { gowen at cs.tufts.edu, at xis.xerox.com } http://www.cs.tufts.edu/~gowen/ "I've been trussed up inside, haystack/Like that/Proverbial needle/ Looking for itself" -- Katell Keineg Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 13:22:08 -0500 From: chc2 at acpub.duke.edu Subject: no fermentation Hey folks, I have a question for all you beer sleuths out there. I've been brewing for a while, quite happily, without any problems so far, but my latest batch has been languishing in the primary fermentor, completely inactive after nearly a week. I've repitched it but still nothing. It's a dark beer (s.g. 1.065) and I used unsulphured blackstrap molasses in it. I initially pitched it with Edme dry yeast and then again with Manchester dry yeast. Every time I have used Edme, it has been a very vigorous yeast and that is what I was hoping for this time. The only thing that is different was my sanitation procedure. When I first started brewing, I used a diluted bleach solution and never had any infection problems but then I changed to iodine which is generally fine but lately when I brew a heavier brew, there has been a slight trace of infection which actually mellows nicely if you leave it in cool storage for a long time but I wanted to make sure this brew wouldn't get infected, so I decided to switch back to bleach. The only thing that I can think of is maybe my bleach was not diluted enough and now nothing will grow in my wort. This seems a little hard for me to believe because it doesn't reek of bleach and I used the same strength I always did. Well, that's about all I can think of. Any suggestions. Personal email would be preferable. TIA for your help. And I have enjoyed reading the digest, when I can find the time. I've gotten lots of helpful hints in the past. Take it easy, Chuck Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 12:24:05 -0600 (CST) From: EDGELL at uwmfe.neep.wisc.edu Subject: BrewSacks Doland Cheung asked about BrewSacks, I had a friend who had the unfortunate experience of spending 6 months (over both Thanksgiving and Christmas) in a very small tent camp in Antarctica without any beer. Even in the "big" base at McMurto (sp?) the beer they had was 5 year old Bud that had been frozen a few times. I sent my friend 2 brewSacks to help relieve his situation. From a review of the BrewSack I knew they have some sugar in them and produce a beer that is a bit thin and bland for the average homebrewer. Thus I also sent along some specialty grains and some hop extract. Apparrently, the beer turned out pretty well and my friend was the most popular guy in camp for a while. Bottom Line: When heating the water to add to the sack, steep a pound of crystal malt in it. Remove the malt when the water starts to boil. Then add an ounce or so of hops to the water and boil them for an hour. (make sure you use enough water to have the proper volume after the hour boil). You can use hop extract to eliminate the hour boil if you are trying to keep it simple. I think BrewSacks are an excellent way to make homebrew if you don't have any equipment for fermenting/bottling/dispensing, such as when you are in the middle of Antarctica. They are also nice to give to someone to start them out homebrewing. Unfortunately, they are too expensive to continue to use and you need to add specialty malts and hops to make really good beer with them. Also if you clean them well after use, you can reuse them with your own malt extract recipe. Hope I have been of some help, Dana Edgell edgell at uwmfe.neep.wisc.edu - --------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 13:29:07 EST From: Jeanne Reil STEAP-IMIS 5320 <jreil at APG-9.APG.ARMY.MIL> Subject: churchkey? Hey gang... just a quick question. does anyone out there know why a bottle opener is called a churchkey? does anyone know what i'm talking about?? private email welcome. thanks for the wisdom... jeanne jreil at apg-9.apg.army.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Jan 95 13:27:51 EST From: mdemers at ccmailpc.ctron.com Subject: HBD QUALITY Please, lets not resurrect this keg crimes thread. It was already beaten to death by all of the lawyer wannabe types already. Take it to alt.useless.legal.debates. Were here to talk about BREWING BEER! Thank you. Mike Demers In Beer I trust. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 13:35:33 -0500 (EST) From: spencert at justice.usdoj.gov Subject: Potassium Sorbate A quick question on hard cider follows. I know it's not beer related, but I've seen cider discussed previously here. I usually brew beer, but this weekend I got the urge to try cider. A major dilemma quickly ensued - no fresh cider! Having missed the fresh cider season in the fall, I discovered that all of the "fresh" cider as stores contained a preservative, spicifically "less than 1/10 of one percent potassium sorbate for freshness". My gut instinct told me that if this was enough to do in bacteria, then ale yeast likely would not stand a chance. Does anyon[Ce know what this stuff is? Has anyone had experience with it? Any and all suggestions, techniques (recipes also) are welcome! Private e-mail is fine, but I believe others would be interested, so please post public if possible. Thanks! Tim Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Jan 95 11:42:17 EST From: sysop at abq-ros.com Subject: 5th Dukes of Ale Spring Thing Beer Comp The 5th Annual Spring Thing Beer Competition is to be held in Albuquerque, NM on March 31. Entry deadline is March 25th. Two bottles per entry are required and the cost is $3. Any AHA designated style of beer can be entered. For entry forms call Guy at (505) 294-0302 or email me at guyruth at abq-ros.com. ========================= !!! Automated Notice !!! ======================= E-mail replies to this user should have the following on the first line of message text: TO: Guy Ruth ========================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 14:05:59 -0600 (CST) From: Rich Larsen <rlarsen at free.org> Subject: Boiling Water & microwaves THE SHECKONATOR <BSHECK at nimue.hood.edu> Writes : >The microwave oven heats by inducing the water >molecules to vibrate at a higher rate, creating >friction which raises their temperature. This creates >steam, BTW, and heat. The heat is what sterilizes. I >could be wrong, but I suspect that _not that many_ >microbes are zapped from the microwaves but from the >heat created by the waves juicing up the water. > >So to prevent over-heating of your utensils in a >microwave oven, put them in a bowl of water; the heat >of boiling will kill the nasties, but keep the utensil >around 212 degrees F. It is possible that you can super heat water in the microwave. I have experienced this myself. You can heat water so much that it will just about explode when something is added to it to give a nucleation point for steam bubbles to form. I don't know if the water is actually hotter than 212 (I can't see how that's possible, but I'm no physicist) but it will violently boil over when the vessel is disturbed. I've tried putting a themometer in the water right after the microwave is turned off, but the themometer cooled off the water, so I didn't get a good reading. Next time, I'll have the themometer in boiling water ready to dunk in the 'nuked water and see if the temp goes up. I don't have the guts to put the thermometer IN the microwave while heating. BTW I routinely use the microwave to sanitize objects as well as bottles. => Rich (rlarsen at squeaky.free.org) ________________________________________________________________________ Rich Larsen, Midlothian, IL * Also on HomeBrew University (708) 705-7263 "Spice is the variety of life." ... Me ________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Jan 95 14:45:03 EST From: dbrigham at nsf.gov Subject: 2 liter Pop bottles, Chili peppers, and miscellany - man, only finished my second ferment and this bottling is for the birds! what's the current concensus on using 2 liter pop bottles for beer that will be consumed with 1 month of bottling? Procedures? Caveats? - I plan on making a medium flavored/medium bodied Ale with some kind of hot-pepper adjunct for 'tweaking' the flavor. I don't want to overpower the drinker with the pepper flavor (probably a mix of jalepeno and haberno peppers) - I am leaning towards making a pepper 'tea' and adding the liquid just prior to bottling. I am assuming that adding the peppers to the boil would impart too much pepper heat to the brew - correct me if I am wrong and inundate me with hints. - well, now that I have started I must say that brewing is fun (and I haven't even had one of my beers yet!) and that a major part of it is the company a home brewer must keep - you netfolk, the local supply folks and the (for now) anxious friends and relatives who want to drink the result! Keep on keepin' on.... Dana Brigham - dbrigham at nsf.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Jan 95 15:37:08 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: oven use/yeast test/private posting Ian asked about baked beer. I found the oven useless for raising mash temperature--no good way to tell where to set the oven thermostat to increase the temperature in the kettle (and also verrrry slow). What the oven works well for is maintaining the mash temp. I kettle mash, raising the temperature to where I want it on a burner. Then, I stick the kettle in the pre-heated oven (usually at my oven's lowest setting, 170 f) and hold it there for however long I want. Then I pull the kettle, put it back on the burner, to increase mash temp again. I usually use the low/high temp mash procedure for American 2-row, and this oven-holding method works super. Another subject: A crude little yeast experiment, to see what worked at my basement's winter temperature (about 52 to 62 degrees, depending on the outside weather). I splurged and bought brand new: American Ale yeast from both Wyeast and Yeast Lab, London Ale from both Wyeast and Yeast Lab, and California lager, from Yeast Lab. Made identical starters, then pitched in 5 one-gallon jugs of identical wort (a pale-ale type), side-by-side in my normal basement brewspot. The clear winner: both London Ales. Started faster, went to full kreusen faster, fermented out much faster (4 days). The California lager was next, slower, but okay. Both versions of American Ale are still fermenting after 18 days in the jug, and a sniff test shows some peculiar "fruity" smell in both. It'll be a while before I can do serious taste test, but I'm going to be using mostly London Ale yeast for winter ale brewing. (The Yeast Lab # is A04, but I can't remember the Wyeast #. I think it was called "London (Whitbread)" or something weird like that.) On the subject of posting to the HBD or doing individual e-mail, I much prefer posts to the net, PROVIDING people put in reasonable "subject" descriptions, so you can skip over what you don't want. It's a pain reading through long posts when you discover there's little of interest at the moment. BTW, Hoppy New Year all..... Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 15:57:43 -0500 From: Joe Pearl <joep at informix.com> Subject: Need recipe for Malta... Hi. Does anyone have a recipe for making Malta (extract please)? I'm trying to duplicate it for my wife. thx, joe. =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ Joe Pearl Informix Software Voice: 813-971-0010 8675 Hidden River Parkway Fax: 813-632-9582 Tampa, FL 33637 Email: joep at informix.com PGP'd email preferred - for key: send me email w/subject "send me pgp key" =+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Jan 95 15:17:18 EST From: M.Marshburn/D202 at cgsmtp.comdt.uscg.mil Subject: Cold Ferment Dec 24th I put together 5lbs 2 row, 1lb 10l crystal, 1lb carapils and 6.6lbs NW Gold LME, Eroica and homegrown Tettnang. No I didn't get Sg, hydro fell and broke. Primary until 31 Dec, racked to secondary, attached blowoff hose till 4 Jan, attached airlock. Beer has been in garage covered with brown paper to ward off sunlight. The temp in the garage has never been above 40F and for the last 10 days has been between 25-35F. I am still getting about 6-8 bubbles a minute from the airlock and the beer has not frozen, even though the water bucket has. I used a quart starter of Wyeast Pilsen cultured from a previous lager made in Sept. Is this kind of yeast activity normal for these temps? I'm not worried, just amazed everytime I check the airlock activity. I've seen posts about diacetal(sp) rest temps, need I concern myself? The Pilsen yeast produced a putrid sulphur smell in primary in both beers, but the lager, IMHO, has turned into an excellent all grain beer. Private email or posting is OK. Mike Marshburn Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Jan 95 21:48:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Temporary & Permanent hardness David writes: >Dear Friends, in #1624 Al K. commented on what constitutes temporary and >permanent hardness, and averred that permanent hardness has more to do >with Ca and Mg than whether things are carbonates or sulphates. Well, yes >and no. All I know is that alkaline-earth bicarbonates will form >(carbonate) precipitates upon boiling and sulphates will not. So if your >analysis shows, for example, the bulk of your Ca as carbonate, you will >eliminate that proportion by preboiling and racking off the residue. If >the bulk of the Ca is as sulphate, you're stuck with it unless you resort >to much more involved procedures. So although I do not dispute Al's >remarks about the role of Mg and Ca in ale brewing waters, I think it >should be pointed out that carbonates are removable and sulphates ain't. >Do any of you brew historians know when and/or by whom the terms >"temporary" and "permanent" were first applied? David is correct in saying that carbonates will precipitate and that sulphates will not. I think this is the origin of temporary and permanent hardness. It is not correct to say "if your analysis shows, for example, the bulk of your Ca as carbonate" -- your analysis simply shows concentrations of ions, not of salts. The solubility of Calcium Carbonate is quite low and if you boil your water and drive off all the CO2, the carbonates will go and latch on to the magnesium and calcium ions and whatever is over the solubility of the resulting CaCO3 and MgCO3 will fall out of solution. The solubility of MgCO3 is quite a bit higher than that of CaCO3, so if you have a lot of magnesium in your water, you cannot remove as much CO3 (HCO3 or H2CO3) as you could if you had low magnesium. The solubility of Calcium Sulphate is also quite high, which is why you can't precipitate out CaSO4. Analysis will often say "as CO3" or, for example, "acidity as lactic acid." This does not neccessarily mean that there is any lactic acid, but rather the acidity is "as if there were X ppm of lactic acid in solution." Also, boiling your water will not help if you don't have enough Ca to form CaCO3. In this case, you would have to add Ca (most will add it as CaSO4, gypsum, but as I've said before, it's better to use Ca2Cl if you can, unless you are making a Burton Ale) and then boil to precipitate the CaCO3. This much I think I have straight (correct me if I'm wrong) but the part that I don't understand, despite having read that part of George Fix's book at least ten times, is how the balance of the CO3 <-> HCO3 <-> H2CO3 works. I know it has to do with the pH and that when the CO2 comes out of solution during the boil (which means, effectively, that the carbonic acid that *is* CO2 dissolved in water, turns to water) the pH of the water rises. What I'm missing is how the pH creates this balance of different types of ions. If someone could explain this, I think I could put all the pieces of this puzzle together. TIA. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Jan 95 22:39:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Re: Keg Crimes (hopefully, the final word) WIRESULTS writes: >Many Moons ago, the thread on Keg ownership was hotly debated with one >Louis Bonham making some good arguments on the side of keeping kegs for >the deposit. I was (potentialy) professionaly curious but with no funds <snip> >by Miller Brewing Co.) Today I received a letter from one Kristin A Kaplan, >Senoir Counsel at Miller Brewing Company in Milwaukee. She Writes thusly: >"This letter is in response to mail regarding beer keg crimes sent by >Louis L Bonham. According to Mr. Bonham, the entire point of the >inquiry is whether "the transaction [is] a rental of the keg or a >purchase/repurchase contract with a liquidated damages clause?" <snip> Let's not forget that this is the Homebrew Digest and not the Law Digest. Debating this issue should be done elsewhere. I'd just like to point out what, to me, appears to be the bottom line on this issue: Ask yourself, "Is it 'right' to forfeit $15 and keep a $100+ keg?" To heck with all the "well, it's used and beat up..." arguments, in the end, I think that the answer for every honest person is "no." Personally, I despise what Miller and A-B and Coors have done to the average American beer drinker's taste and would love to punish them for that, but stealing from them is against my nature. I plan to continue to "punish" them by spending my commercial beer dollars on products from Sierra Nevada, Anchor, Rogue, Moortgat, Cantillon, Goose Island, Kalamazoo, Fullers, Dominion, Youngs... and by spreading the word about "good" beer. This post has reminded me that I have a keg at home that I never returned and planned, initially, to use for homebrewing. Next time I'm going past the store from which the keg was *borrowed*, I will return it. If you need a keg, buy a legal one from BCI or SABCO. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Jan 1995 16:46:36 -0600 From: MHANSEN at ctdmc.pmeh.uiowa.edu Subject: Yet another water question Fellow brewers, While we are on the subject of water analysis/treatment I have a simple question (sorry Lee! :-)). I have checked many books on the subject and can't find the answer. Exactly what compounds go into the stuff homebrew shops sell and simply call Burton Water Salts and, more importantly, *what are the proportions of each*? I use deionized, reverse osmosis, and everything-else-you-can-do-to-get-the-crud-out water and am only concerned about putting things INTO my water and not worried about taking them OUT. Now that I think about it, I do have a pointer to give (redeeming myself, Lee! :-)). If you have a receiving tube/hose on the spigot of whatever kind of lauter tun you have, make sure the damn thing is secure. Mine popped off yesterday and my lauter tun delivered about a pint of wort onto the dining room carpet! TIA and brew on my friends, Mike (michael-d-hansen at uiowa.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 11:49:27 -0700 From: Shawn Steele <shawn at aob.org> Subject: The Beer Basics > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sat, 7 Jan 95 06:24:10 -0500 > From: "Cheryl Bann" <bannx001 at maroon.tc.umn.edu> > Subject: brewing > > I want to find out where and what to get to begin brewing my own brew. what > suggestions do you have? cheryl > > ------------------------------ "The Beer Basics," a quick how-to-brew sheet, is available by sending e-mail to "info at aob.org" containing the key word "HOWTOBREW" (this can appear anywhere in the text.) This service is automated and other information is available as well. This is also a fairly new service and will expand in the future, to include a Homebrew Club List and other interesting stuff. - shawn - --------------------------------- Shawn Steele Information Systems Administrator Association of Brewers (303) 447-0816 x 118 (voice) 736 Pearl Street (303) 447-2825 (fax) PO Box 1679 shawn at aob.org (e-mail) Boulder, CO 80306-1679 info at aob.org (aob info) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 17:52:35 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: RE:mashing/Gott cooler Rick laments: < I then sprinkled 75degC water on top, and opened the outflow tube. <I sparged with a total of about 4 gallons, and it took me about 25 minutes <or so. The sparge trickled to a near stop, then I tilted the cooler to get <a little bit more out. I then boiled, added hops, etc, and used my new <wort chiller to chill the wort to yeast pitching temp (I loved the wort <chiller very much!!). To my surprise (and disappointed), after measuring the <o.g., I calculated a rather low extraction rate (about 22pts/lb/gallon). <Boy, was I bummed!! I got at least 26 with my uninsulated two-buckets <tun system, and the reason I wanted a cooler was so that I could improve <my efficiency. What was I doing wrong? Should I have mashed longer <(like for two hours)? Did I sparge too quickly? I would appreciate <any advice from experienced users of the Gott-tun system. BTW, the grain <was crushed with a Phil Mill. Either you didnt convert the malt carbohydrates very well, and/or you had a poor lauter. Depending on the type of malt and your water chemistry, a rest in the 140s may help to ensure adequate maltose production prior to the saccharification in the 150s. Some stirring during these rests can help, but I dont do a lot of this, but then I mash a lot more at a time. If all of your past experience had acceptable yields, then certainly the lauter process is the place to look. 25 minutes is a very, very fast lauter. I would look to be sure you recirculate for reasonable clarity, then aim for a 45-60 minute lauter. Knife'ing the lauter bed may be in order too, this is what rakes do in the big tuns. Basically, you need to optimize the even flow of the sparge liquor through the tun, avoiding any channeling that can occur. Kevin asks about Milwaukee water: <I brew ales for the most part (everything from Weiss to Stout=), <however, I will be brewing Lagers soon. My beer is mainly extract with some <grain added. For extract brewing, forget about the water analysis, it wont matter that much. For lagers, I would try the water without any additions, the key factor is calcium and at 96 ppm you've got plenty of that. If you are starting to go all grain, try a simple ale first, it is a lot more forgiving. Thanks to Bob Hall for an excellent concise summary of mash acidification/ reactions! Jim Busch busch at mews.gsfc.nasa.gov "DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER!" Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1627, 01/10/95