HOMEBREW Digest #1686 Wed 22 March 1995

Digest #1685 Digest #1687

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  professional brewing courses (Lenny Garfinkel)
  US Saaz Hops (Chuck E. Mryglot)
   (George Danz 919-405-3632)
  pump question ("Timothy P. Laatsch)
  Making Wits.... (again) (Andrew Patrick)
  Dry Hopping (Drago James MAJ)
  mail note (KWERNER.MARL)
  Wit! (cole)
  Homebrew shops/shop opening possibility (Timothy Staiano)
  Lager Yeast (AUS)" <BenA at wayne.com>
  Homebrew Digest #1685 (March 21, 1995) (Ed Holderman)
  Kolsch (Michael McGuire)
  Warm Weather Brewing (TAYLOR STANDLEE)
  Re:White Beer and Orange Peel (Hmbrewbob)
  Straining vs. Racking ("Harrington, Stephen J")
  Gott Alternatives??? (Dan Sherman)
  Re: water analysis micro mhos (Richard Hampo)
  Priming for a Trippel (Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna)
  Specific Gravity Calculations (RWaterfall)
  Slow Lager? (Montgomery_John)
  Four stages/yeast and hop utilization (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  A-B Kegs and Brew Systems (Kirk R Fleming)
  Keg dispensing device (Bill Rucker)
  counter-pressure bottle fillers (PGILLMAN)
  Victoria Bitter (Tony McCauley)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 12:05:17 +0200 (IST) From: Lenny Garfinkel <lenny at zeus.datasrv.co.il> Subject: professional brewing courses Can anyone point me to training courses for professional brewmasters? Preferably in Europe, but US ok. Lenny _________________________________________________________________ Dr. Leonard Garfinkel | Internet: lenny at zeus.datasrv.co.il Bio-Technology General | Office Phone: 972-8-381256 Kiryat Weizmann | Home Phone: 972-8-451505 Rehovot, Israel | FAX: 972-8-409041 - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 08:16:49 EST From: cem at cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot) Subject: US Saaz Hops Hi Everyone.... Recently I bought a pound of US Saaz whole leaf hops (ultimately from G.W. Kent Ann Arbor MI). The AA rating was 6.2% I have brewed with these a few times and this rating appears to be correct. Now, Czech Saaz hops are usually around 3%. Are the US versions of Saaz so drastically different?.... or is this just an aberation. I planted some US Saaz last year and am looking forward to a decent harvest this year. Should I assume that the AA will be around 6% ? Any advice is welcome. cheers, chuckm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 08:31:54 -0500 From: danz at rtp.semi.harris.com (George Danz 919-405-3632) Subject: Bob Bassette asked about using yeast from bottle dregs: =========== From: Bob Bassette <bessette at hawk.uicc.com> Subject: Re-using old yeast from a bottle... Fellow HBDers, Miller states in TCHOHB that he has successfully used yeast dregs from a bottle of home-brew pitched into a starter for a subsequent batch. He also mentioned that he would not go more than one generation from the Wyeast pack-pitched beer. I would like to try this in an upcoming batch. He mentioned that you should be pretty confident of your sanitation practices before doing this. He also states that you should torch the top of your bottle bfore pitching the dregs into the starter. Has anyone out there done this and has had consistent success? Also any horror stories? I know that I'm risking a whole batch for the cost of a Wyeast pack (roughly $4.00) but I would like to give it a go. Please send to me directly if you have any experience with this... ============= Bob, One of the best bottles to get your yeast from is the secondary of the last batch. There is one helluva lot of yeasties in there and since you don't have to transfer anything, a much less chance of beasties in your yeasties. I've done this once and plan on reapeating. The lag period of 2 to 3 hours is attractive to me and the results have been damn good lager. I haven't tried this with ales yet. The yeast is same generation as Miller's from the bottle, so no problem there. I just start a new batch and when I'm ready to drain my pre-chilled brew into the carboy, I rack the fermented batch into lager carboys or bottle if you wish, then let new batch drop into the just emptied fermenter. I cover the fermenter and yeast with alum. foil to keep out anything that might come along while I'm preparing hoses, etc. to feed the fermenter. - ------ "Life's too short to drink cheap beer" George E. Danz danz at rtp.semi.harris.com (919)405-3632 (919)405-3651 FAX Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 09:09:36 -0400 (EDT) From: "Timothy P. Laatsch <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu>" <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu> Subject: pump question Hello, I have an el-cheapo pseudo-3-tiered all-grain system. I mash in my brewpot and then transfer the mash to a zapap lauter-tun. I have a small brewpot (from my extract days) with a valve that sits on the stove and serves as my hot liquor tank and runs directly into the lauter-tun. The third tier is the brewpot, which sits on the floor and collects the sweet runnings. The problem, of course, is that I cannot immediately and directly heat the wort because it is on the floor. I would like to invest in a small liquid pump to pump the wort from an intermediate collection vessel on the floor (like a saucepan) and up to the brewing kettle on the stovetop. This would allow me to begin heating immediately, which would shorten my brewday (already ridiculously long) and hopefully improve my beer (may help with caramelization in styles like Scotch Ales). I've seen some suggestions for Teel pumps, but I'm completely ignorant of what size or capacity pump I need and/or where to get them. Any suggestions would be appreciated and, as always, I'm looking for a bargain. TIA. Bones ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Timothy P. Laatsch Graduate Student in Microbial Ecology/Bioremediation Michigan State University / W.K. Kellogg Biological Station Kalamazoo, MI laatsch at kbs.msu.edu "...and your face looked like somethin' death brought with him in his suitcase..."----WZ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 08:45:48 -0600 (CST) From: Andrew Patrick <andnator at mcs.com> Subject: Making Wits.... (again) The making of wits has been much discussed here previously. Isn't there a FAQ on this? (No, I am not volunteering! I really dont have the time.) I have found the Wyeast Belgian White strain to do an excellent job. It is allegedly the same strain used by Celis in Austin. You can get some excellent "Bitter Quarters" orange peel from a mail order store called The Frozen Wort in either Northfield or Greenfield, Mass. No, I dont have the number handy, try 1-800 directory assistance. One of the tougher things about this style is getting the wheat character right. Celis' grain bill contains a large fraction of UNmalted wheat. This stuff is a real PITA to work with, both in terms of grinding it and mashing it. Last time I made one of these, I did just used plain old DWC wheat malt, and the resulting beer turned out quite nicely. The exact spice profile is somewhat controversial. Everybody agrees that there is orange peel and coriander in there, but there is also another "secret spice" that Pierre won't reveal. There is widespread speculation about what it might be.... Pierre does a secondary lactic fermentation to get that sour flavor. I asked him how a homebrewer might attempt to replicate this when I saw him at the Dixie Cup a couple of years back. He just smiled, and said "ahhhhh.... I think it is a difficult thing for a homebrewer to achieve!" He's a funny guy. Try adding a little bit of lactic acid to sour it up a bit, if you are going for an exact Celis clone. Adjust the exact amount according to your tastes. Andy Patrick (andnator at mcs.com) Brewmaster, Harlem Brewing Co, Inc; Founder, HomeBrew U BBS Network: Chicago 708-705-7263, Houston 713-923-6418, Milwaukee 414-238-9074 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 09:20:23 EST From: tj2996 at WESTPOINT-EMH2.USMA.ARMY.MIL (Drago James MAJ) Subject: Dry Hopping I had my first experience with dry-hopping recently, and it did not go well. Looking for some advice. I brewed an IPA (8th batch) and after racking to the secondary, added pelletized hops directly. The problems occurred when I attempted to rack it to my bottling bucket. I tried attaching a sanitized nylon to the end of my racking cane, and I had a difficult time with the hops clogging the end of the tube. Even though the nylon kept the hop residue from travelling up the tube, transfer occurred only for about a minute or so before clogging up. I tried several iterations with the nylon attaching it both loosely and tightly to the cane. Eventually, I gave up, sanitized a strainer and went fishing for melted hop pellets that remained at the top of the secondary. This process took a while, and I am not confident that the beer that went into the bottles was as clean as it should be. Any advice on how to successfully dry hop would be much appreciated. Jim Drago JAMES P. DRAGO MAJ, FA ADMISSIONS MEDIA OFFICER X5701 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 07:00:16 PST From: KWERNER.MARL at rx.xerox.com Subject: mail note HELP Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 09:16:17 -0500 From: cole at nevism.nevis.columbia.edu Subject: Wit! I am catching up on a couple of weeks worth of HBD and noticed the thread on Spring St Brewing and Wit! I bought a six-pack of this last week to see what it was like and found it so bad that I took 5 unopened bottles back to the store. It had an overwhelming off sour taste which I assume can only be the result of an infection. This sourness was not the kind of pleasant tartness I enjoy in Celis Wit, it was nauseating. I have never had a homebrew (mine or anyone elses) as bad as this beer. The fact that they would ship obviously infected beer confirms Jim's observation that they are more interested in law and marketing than producing a good beer. Hopefully they will either clean up their act or sink into oblivion. Cheers, Brian Cole cole at nevis.nevis.columbia.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 10:19:06 -0500 (EST) From: Timothy Staiano <tstaiano at ultrix.ramapo.edu> Subject: Homebrew shops/shop opening possibility This message is for those living in the Northern New Jersey/Southern New York-Conn. area, so if that excludes you, please move along. Send flames regarding this localized post to stop.whining at seen.more.worthless.posts. I already know about Red Bank Brew Supply, Hop & Vine, The Home Brewery, and 1 or 2 others in NJ, but does anyone know of any in the Southern Orange and/or Rockland County, NY area? How about southern Conn? Please reply private e-mail so as to avoid a cyber-lynching. The reason I as is that my boss approached me about running a homebrew supply store located next to us, Mountain Valley Brew Pub. As we are located in Suffern, NY (and I live just over the border in 'Jersey), I don't know of any local (within 15-20 min) hb suppliers. We were wondering if there is any interest in having one in this area. Please e-mail me if you have (or anyone you know has) a desire to see a new hb supplier within this region. TIA Have a hoppy! Tim Staiano tstaiano at ultrix.ramapo.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 09:50:00 C From: "Ben Adair (AUS)" <BenA at wayne.com> Subject: Lager Yeast i am fermenting my first lager, an Oktoberfest partial mash, and at about 8 days i dry-hopped. the next day i noticed that the yeast at the bottom of my fermenter breaks loose in big chunks and floats to the top and a faintly (very faintly) sour hint is detectable. i realize i am not doing my lager justice by using single stage by i measured a low OG and i didn't think the fermentation would last too long, although at 40-45 degrees i guess it could. questions: am i paranoid? (i can figure that out on my own if i tried) should i rack to another fermenter? thanks, -ben Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 10:35 EST From: Ed Holderman <0006776088 at mcimail.com> Subject: Homebrew Digest #1685 (March 21, 1995) >From: " Richard Byrnes Jr" <usfmczgm at ibmmail.com> >...2 questions, I could use some recommendations on brewpubs or >decent beer bars in Atlanta. Richard, I hate to disappoint you but, brewpubs are currently illegal in Atlanta (hope that changes soon). As far as decent beer bars, you're in luck! Check out any of the $3 Cafes or Rose & Crown in Buckead, Taco Mac in Sandy Springs (I-285 & Roswell Rd.), and a couple others but I always seem to forget their names. %-) >From: "Westerman, Robert" <robert.westerman at spmail.jsc.nasa.gov> >Subject: Bottle Cappers Again! >In your opinion, what is the best kind (style and brand) of bottle capper to use? >I want to give one as a gift. I use a double lever capper (Black beauty I >think, with a magnet to hold the cap), but am not very impressed with it (it has even broke bottles in the past). Robert, Since I have this great talent for losing things, I have tried several bottle cappers. I have only used the double lever cappers, but I have heard that single lever/stand alone cappers do not need as much strength to use, and are less fatiguing. One of mine had two plastic bottle contact pads, one on each side of the bottle, and the rest was metal with plastic coated grips. It worked well and never broke a bottle. Another sounded similar to yours; black, made in Italy, with plastic handles and a magnetic cap holder. It worked very well, smooth, and didn't need much pressure, although that made it hard to judge when to stop squeezing - never broke bottles. The last one, which I have used the most, is metal with three metal "hooks" that latch on to the bottle underneath the 2nd lip on the neck. It works fairly well, but needs a little more pressure. The only problem seems to be with the metal to glass contact - I have broken a couple bottles. Of course, I have only used non-returnable Sam Adams(TM) or Molson type bottles in this capper (Atlanta is not into re-using), so the bottles are a little thinner, therefore they may break more. I am now trying to convert to Grolsch type bottles with the flip-top and rubber gasket - no cappers! "Put another ale in your coffin"- Ed Holderman. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 10:23:14 CST From: mcguire at hvsun33.mdc.com (Michael McGuire) Subject: Kolsch Could someone tell me the optimum fermentation teperature for Whyeast's 2565 kolsch. Thanks in advance Michael mcguimp at vpcs.msfc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 09:28:22 -0700 From: TAYLOR STANDLEE <STANDLT at vortex.t-bird.edu> Subject: Warm Weather Brewing HBDers: Today is the last day of Winter here in Phoenix, so it is basically the first day of summer (72 degrees at 6:00 am). This is also my first year here in Az and I am wondering if there are any yeast that perform tolerably at warmer ferment temperatures. Yes, I know I need to by an old refrigerator, but the temp in the house is hovering around 70F so does anyone have any suggestions? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 11:33:25 -0500 From: Hmbrewbob at aol.com Subject: Re:White Beer and Orange Peel Hi Matt and fellow hbd'ers, Matt writes in #1685: >> I was wondering how well Wyeast's Belgian White Beer Yeast >>#3944 works. Also, I am having trouble finding the proper orange >>peel. I made my first Wit in Nov. of last year so I have abit of experience to pass on. I used Wyeast Belgian Wit yeast and was surprised how slow it was to finish. I left it go for 2 weeks in the pimary at 65F and racked it into the secondary where it slowly bubbled for another 4 wks at 65F. This yeast added a subtle "Belgian" flavor in in my beer and IMO, really helped in rounding out the finish. Don't be alarmed by the krausen/foam that the beer will have most of the time, Wit has a load of protein in its makeup and will support this head. I didn't have much luck finding bitter orange either so I went to a spice shop and picked up an oz of orange zest (sweet orange peel). I used 1/2 oz of it and 1 oz of grapefruit skin (just the yellow part of the peel) to flavor my beer. Although I got the citris flavor I was after it was to much. Next time I will use 1/2 oz of zest and 1/2 oz of g'fruit (which is the skin of half a softball size g'fruit). I boiled this stuff for 30 min and added 3/4 oz of crushed coriander seed for the final 10 min. I added 10ml of lactic acid in my bottling bucket but I think the citris taste masked it abit. Since I like that lactic taste my next batch of Wit will have 15ml of lactic acid, but you might want to start out with 10ml. Because Kyle and many others have problems with grinding unmalted wheat why not use flaked wheat? It's unmalted wheat that has been sent thru rollers with the added benefit of having the wheat gelatinized in the process. Bob Ledden Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Mar 1995 08:53:22 -0800 From: "Harrington, Stephen J" <sharrington at msmail4.hac.com> Subject: Straining vs. Racking Guy, I used to pour the wort through a metal strainer and a funnel into my carboy. I was constantly having problems with the hops clogging things up. When I switched to using a 5 gallon pot, it was too heavy to move safely and try to wrestle with the clogging hops. I now rack from the pot right to the carboy. It is much easier, and also aerates better. At the end of the tube which goes into the carboy, I put a small piece of racking cane with a hole drilled through the side. This acts as a venturi (sp?) and puts lots of 02 into the wort (I got this idea from Fred Waltman). I strongly recommend that you rack instead of strain. Stephen Harrington Manhattan Beach, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 09:23:24 -0800 (PST) From: dsherman at sdcc3.ucsd.edu (Dan Sherman) Subject: Gott Alternatives??? I posted this message to rec.crafts.brewing a day ago & thought that there may also be some interest & good feedback on the HBD. I'll post a summary when I've compiled all of the responses. TIA. I was in Kmart a couple of days ago, looking for inexpensive brewing supplies, when I came upon a couple of Rubbermaid chest-type coolers. Rubbermaid makes the popular Gott drink coolers & these chest-type coolers are also designed to handle both hot and cold liquids. The 6.5 gal. cooler was about $17 and the 12 gal. was about $19. Much cheaper than the orange Gott drink coolers (Kmart has the 5 gal. for $30). Does anyone know if there is a reason NOT to use these chest-type coolers? Now, a couple of technical questions... I do primarily 5 gal. batches, with the occasional 2.5 gal. batch. Is the 12 gal. cooler going to be too big for a 5 gal. batch (not sufficient grain bed depth)? Would I lose too much heat, due to the large space between the top of the grain bed and the lid of the cooler? The 6.5 gal. Rubbermaid cooler doesn't have a drain spiggot. Would there be a problem with drilling my own? Is there some sort of insulation between the inside and outside cooler walls that would pose a problem? Any recommendations on how to fit my own spiggot? The 6.5 gal. cooler is the perfect size for the brewing I do now, but the 12 gal. for only $2 more (plus a drain hole) is tempting. Thanks!! Dan Sherman dsherman at ucsd.edu San Diego, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 12:30:02 EST From: captain at vulcan.srl.ford.com (Richard Hampo) Subject: Re: water analysis micro mhos Howdy, I can't recall who asked this, but a few days ago someone asked about the water conductance number that they got on their water analysis. The units listed are micromhos. One mho is simply the inverse of an ohm (which is one volt per amp). So if the water has conductance of one michromho, it has resistance of one megohm. I do not know what else goes into the test (i.e. the area and distance over which this number is measured), but that is what the units mean. Happy Brewing, Richard Hampo H&H Brewing Ford Research Laboratory Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 12:36:54 EST From: Tim_Fields_at_Relay__Tech__Vienna at RELAY.COM Subject: Priming for a Trippel My next brew will be a Belgian trippel (extract recipe), and I want to prime it with fresh yeast as well as sugar. From what I gather, I should use 1 C of sugar and a one pint starter of yeast for a 5 gallon batch. My last brew was also a Belgian, and it ended up under-carbonated (i think. Used only sugar for priming and less than a cup). I want to avoid under-carbonation, but i also want to avoid exploding bottles. I'd appreciate any insights you all have. Thanks! Tim Fields Relay Technology SQL/DS Team Timf at relay.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 12:54:40 -0500 From: RWaterfall at aol.com Subject: Specific Gravity Calculations In #1684, Gary Bell writes, "...using the table on page 268 in Charlie Papazian's TNCJOHB to estimate the specific gravity of your wort. DON'T! I posted on this last week; the table, for some strange reason, represents some kind of strange polynomial function. The relationship is purely linear. Assuming that your DME contributes 42 pts/lb, if you add a pound of DME to a gallon of water you increase the OG by 42 points. Thus two pounds per gallon gives an OG of 1.084, three pounds per gallon gives 1.126, four pounds would give 1.168, and five pounds would result in a whopping 1.210 (don't try this at home kids!)." I disagree Gary, it is not at all linear. The malt is adding volume as well as weight to the wort. If we assume that dry malt extract in water is an idea l solution (a bad assumption BTW), then the specific gravity of the solution is equal to the sum of the masses divided by the sum of the volumes divided by the density of water. Here's the strange polynomial equation after simplifying it: sg= (Mmalt + 8.34*Vw) ------------------------------------ ((Mmalt/1.54) + (8.34*Vw/1)) And, Wort Volume= Mmalt --------------------- + Vw 8.34*1.54 Where Mmalt is the weight of malt in lb, Vw is the volume of water in gal, 1.54 is the sg of maltose (it also agrees with back calculating from the 42 pt/lb/gal at 1lb/1gal of wort). 1 gallon of water weighs 8.34 lb at 60F. In #1685 Bob Paolino responded to Gary "- -->I wonder (again, without having the table at hand, or even having read it carefully, I confess) whether Charlie's numbers take into account the additional volume contributed by the extract, and if that might explain any difference. That is, is that 1.035 (or whatever the actual number is depending on the particular extract, which is why I said mid-30s rather than 1.035) is for a liquid extract added to a gallon of water (for a total volume greater than one gallon) or for a volume of extract and water that equals one gallon? It does make a difference, of course, although the practical difference for determining a U% which is only an approximation anyway is uncertain. It's possible that one is talking about an amount of extract plus a volume of water, and the other is a volume of diluted extract, and both results could conceivably be correct." Pretty much, Bob. If you substitute 1 lb malt and .922 gal of *water* into the equations above you get 1 gal of *wort* at sg=1.042. If you add 1 lb of malt to that you get 1.078 gallons of 1.078sg *wort*. If you add a third lb of malt you get 1.156 gal of 1.109sg wort. I ran a spread sheet with lb of DME down the side and gal of water across the top and calculated the sg and volume of each mixture using those equations. I checked several points on my table vs. CP's table and they agree within 0.001. So Charlie's right. But guess what happens when you boil those enlarged worts back to 1 gal. You got it, Gary is right too! Basically, the linear thing works as long as you remember that it's 42 (or whatever) points per lb per gallon of *wort*, not *water*. Charlie's tables work if you are trying to amend a wort in progress to a given sg and to heck with the final volume of wort. Like I said before though, wort is probably not an ideal solution, meaning that the total volume won't quite be the sum of the volumes of the original components. This makes the density greater. I looked into the some organic chemistry data compliations and found a couple of tables of actual measurements of the density of different concentrations of maltose in water. The one at 20 C agrees pretty well with the above equation (with a slight correction for the density of water at 20C not being exactly 1.00). The one at 15.5C isn't as close, but a change in the density of maltose with temp may bring it closer. The equation underpredicts the gravity a little at the high end (e.g., at 19.56% maltose by weight and 15.5C, the predicted density is 1.072 as compared with the actual value of 1.0798). So actually, it seems like both ways of figuring it are wrong. But, since we don't often go over 2 lb extract per gallon, then either model is good enough for government workers and homebrewers (of which I am both ;-)). Sorry about the BW, but think of how long it would have been if I included the tables and spreadsheet. Bob Waterfall, Troy, NY, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 95 11:57:00 CST From: Montgomery_John at lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil Subject: Slow Lager? Hi, Got a question for you folks. What kind of time frame should I be looking at for a lager to ferment out completely? I've got a batch that I'm beginning to *gasp* worry about (thank goodness I've got some other homebrew to relax with). Here's the scenario: 6.5 lbs Light DME 9 AAU's hops Wyeast Pilsen liquid lager yeast Methodology (ala Noonan's Brewing Lager Beers): Day 1 - Pitched a 1 qt starter at 70F. (Forgot the O.G. reading) Day 2.5 - Active fermentation within 36 hours at 53F. Day 14 - Racked to secondary (temp at 48F). Two day Diacetyl rest at 53F. Day 16 - Began walking temp down to set point of 33 - 37F. Day 24 - Temp at Lagering temp (~35F). Day 45 - Beer has been lagering for 21 days. Day 66 - Airlock looks still. Attempt to bottle but upon moving fermenter from fridge to kitchen, airlock gets active and I notice bubbles rising. I abort and take gravity readings SG: 1.014, Balling: 3.75 Day 72 - Take gravity readings. SG: 1.013, Balling: 3.63 So what's the deal. Is this thing taking too long? Am I being impatient? Is the lagering temp too cold? Anybody have any clues? Sorry if this took a lot of bandwidth, but I'm perplexed. TIA. John M. montgomery_john at lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Mar 95 14:45:00 -0600 From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Four stages/yeast and hop utilization Bob writes: >The other downside to gyle is that it can leave a ring around the neck >of the bottle, since the yeast has to got through all 4 stages again >and the ring is nothing more than a high kraeusen mark... This may be true, but I don't see why the yeast would not go through the same stages for dextrose priming as they would for malt or gyle priming. Based upon my own experiments, I feel quite confident that it's protein that makes up the ring and that force-cooling the primings after the boil (and then leaving the break OUT of the bottling vessel) eliminates the ring around the neck. Corn sugar has no protein and therefore no ring whether you force-cool the primings or not. *** Bradd writes: >Please, save me from buying [Garetz's] book... how does he account for >his supposed increase in [utilization] with more flocculent yeasts? No need to buy the book. You can find the information for yourself in the library in the ASBC Proceedings from 1955 (I believe). In one paper, the author states that you can expect 10% more bitterness in a beer made with highly flocculent yeast than you would get if the yeast was less flocculent. The reason being that if the yeast spend more time in solution they have more time to adsorb the isomerized alpha acids. Those that fall out quickly have less effect. It's difficult, at best, to use this information, since all yeast are somewhere between "extremely flocculent" and "not flocculent at all" and it's not easy to predict how much of that 10% *additional* loss you can expect from your yeast (naturally, all yeasts will adsorb some amount, but the less flocculent ones will adsorb more). You can get a rough idea from brewing the same recipe with different yeasts but try a new yeast and it's back to the drawing board. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 18:06:26 -0700 From: flemingk at usa.net (Kirk R Fleming) Subject: A-B Kegs and Brew Systems RE: #1685 Bradd asks about kegs >From: braddw at banjo.rounder.com (Bradd Wheeler) >Subject: New to the keg Biz > What kind of kegs is A-B using these days? All-stainless Sankey's are the only kind of A-B kegs *I have seen*. >If I were to have a separate hot liquor tank would I be able to >sufficiently mash/lauter 10 gal batches in a 1/4 keg then boil in >a 1/2 keg? This means two false bottoms and two ball valves, but >I want a separate mash/lautering vessel. It's real hard for me to glean what you're describing, but here's what I *think* you're proposing...either a) you want to use two 1/4 bbl kegs to simultaneously mash in, then at mash out go into a single 1/2 bbl keg/kettle for the boil. If I'm reading you correctly, then I say the answer is yes, you can do that, but the problems of temperature control and costs of building a mash/lauter tank are all doubled, along with a doubling of the tempo of the work you have to do during the mash cycle. The most expensive and troublesome aspect of building a three-keg system for me was: getting fittings for the keg and getting them welded to the keg, cutting open the keg, and getting good false bottoms. Recommendation here is: hold out for a single 1/2 bbl keg for use as a mash/lauter unit. OR...b) You *really* mean you want to mash in a single 1/4 bbl keg, mash out into the 1/2 bbl kettle, and add make-up water to get the final brew length you want. If THIS is what you're talking about, then I don't understand your comment about needing two false bottoms--unless you're proposing to use one in the kettle, which isn't worth the effort. Here is my experience with a three-keg system: For a ten-gallon batch you're looking at 18-22 lbs of grain or more, to which you have to add 6-8 gallons of water. Although you can load the mash tun up to the gills with goodies since you don't have to boil, I think you'd never come close to getting 20 lbs of grain and 7 gal of water in a 7 3/4 gal tank with the top cut off. When we mash 22 lbs of grain in a 1/2 bbl keg we have about 30% available space left--but this is well over the 8 gal center seam of the keg. >I had the idea of building a conical vent hood for the kettle >that would have an immersion chiller permanently attached. Would >there be a detrimental effect from having the chiller immersed >throughout the entire boil? I see no harm in having the chiller in the boil for the duration; kettles were once all-copper, after all. We have to reduce quite a bit of volume sometimes, from 12 gal down to 10 at our reduction rate of 1 gal/hr. So...we don't want to cover the kettle. Unless you plan to cover the kettle with a blown hood and run the fan all the time, you may find you get slower reductions than you really want. I make the trade-off in favor of lower boil-start volumes (closer to target final volume) and sacrifice the higher yields of a longer, more voluminous sparge. Kirk R Fleming Colorado Springs flemingk at usa.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 21:56:22 -0500 From: brewzer at peanut.mv.com (Bill Rucker) Subject: Keg dispensing device I have been following with great interest, the thread on the beer engine. I have a question for anyone who may have had the impulse to build a dispensing device for your average everyday lager or whatever. What did you do to make and how does it work? If you have not done this maybe you are thinking of it and have a good idea that may work. I want to be able to dispense 3-4 kegs at once without all the hoses going everywhere. I am using the 5 gallon corny kegs and a spare refrigerator in the basement. Any ideas would be welcome and possibly tried. TIA Cheers! ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ Bill Rucker Work: cewgr at alpha.naesco.com Home: brewzer at peanut.mv.com *** Wherever you go, there you are! *** Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 19:04:09 -0800 (PST) From: PGILLMAN at POMONA.EDU Subject: counter-pressure bottle fillers i am interested in building or purchasing a counter-pressure bottle filler- can anyone help with info on design of or suppliers of this? tia- phil pgillman at pomona.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 22:25:38 -0600 (CST) From: afmccaul at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Tony McCauley) Subject: Victoria Bitter I'm floating a query out here for a co-worker. Pat asks if Victoria Bitter from Australia is imported into the US? He tasted the beer on his last visit and loves it. He plans to ship a case or two back on his next visit. Anybody had any experience shipping beer from Australia? How about the cost if you've done it? (I've heard some horror stories, experience and $$$, about shipping from Europe and England.) Private responses are fine. TIA (and Pat thanks you also), Tony McCauley -- afmccaul at ilstu.edu . Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1686, 03/22/95