HOMEBREW Digest #1720 Tue 02 May 1995

Digest #1719 Digest #1721

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Stainless steel, how to tell. (Matthew Robert Koster)
  dry hop with pellets (Dan Pack)
  Just Hops phone and email (Glenn Tinseth)
  Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1717 (April 28, 1995) (Cyruslax)
  Kegging (Harold LaRoux)
  RE: Sam Adams Mittlefreuh hops (Tom Clifton)
  Re: Bugs (TomF775202)
  Bashing advertisers (rodney dyer)
  Wort filter / Good Times (Pulsifer)
  AD:(sort of) Seed Barley ("Bill Radosevich")
  Re: "Is My Beer Ruined?" FAQ (Kevin McEnhill)
  Copper boiling kettle (TPuskar)
  Incomplete fermentations (Lee Bollard)
  Open Fermentation (Kirk R Fleming)
  SRM Color Guides (Dennis Davison)
  BUZZ-OFF AHA Competition ("Houseman, David L [TR]")
  Good Times Virus is a Hoax (mike.keller)
  Warning! E-mail virus? (DONBREW)
  Re:Masching Corn (John Mrazek)
  Broken Bottles (Stanton_A)
  re: Apologies/Gelatine/Black Malt/Who's Who (usfmchql)
  Re:Food & beer/Cider,Mead (Martyn Westguard)
  NOTE 05/01/95 06:50:00 ("TCRGR at chevron.com")
  RE: first decoction (Jim Dipalma)
  What's fermenting? (PatrickM50)
  Head formation (Btalk)
  No commercials/oatmeal (barber eric stephen)
  Kitchenaid Grain Mill - Bad Rap (dsanderson)
  Mash Temperature control. (Chris Cooper)
  Carboy Covers (dsanderson)
  New Miller book (JLinscheid)
  Returned mail: OG Calc Erratum (Kirk Fleming / Metro Technologies)
  OG Calc (M.Marshburn/D202)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 15:25:05 -0500 (CDT) From: Matthew Robert Koster <matthewk at csd.uwm.edu> Subject: Stainless steel, how to tell. Hi, I have just found out where I can get some stainless steel kegs for a relatively cheap price. But how do know if they are really stainless steel? Someone mentioned before that some kegs will have a 304 on them, meaning 304 alloy or something like that. Any info would be greatly appreciated! Mk... _______________________________________________________________ Matt Koster Located in beautiful Email : matthewk at csd.uwm.edu post-industrial WWW : http://www.uwm.edu/~matthewk/ Milwaukee, WI Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 15:25:25 -0700 From: danpack at grape-ape.che.caltech.edu (Dan Pack) Subject: dry hop with pellets A question for the collective wisdom: I'm exclusively an ale brewer and a self-confirmed hop head. I dry hop most of my beers and until recently have used only whole hops. However, I prefer the convenience of pellets and so on my latest effort I tried dry hopping with 1 oz of pellets. I had read about the difficulties of keeping the hop residue out of the bottles but thought I'd give it a go anyway. Well, I did end up with a lot of hop *junk* in my bottles (which isn't a major problem, it just looks bad; you don't think my beer is ruined do you? Should I throw it out? ;->) Anyway, I was wondering how one might get around this problem. I guess a standard hop bag has holes which are too big to hold in the pelletized hop bits. I was thinking of tying the pellets in a piece of cheesecloth (or perhaps old underwear) instead of a hop bag. Any thoughts on this? What about using a coffee filter (No. 4 cone) the same way? Do any of you pellet users have nifty solution? Thanks for listening, Dan Pack Pasadena, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 15:36:54 -0700 From: gtinseth at teleport.com (Glenn Tinseth) Subject: Just Hops phone and email EricHale at aol.com asks: >Also, who's got Just Hops phone number? I do. It's 217-864-4216 or try email kellums1 at aol.com Glenn Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 19:04:28 -0400 From: Cyruslax at aol.com Subject: Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1717 (April 28, 1995) I would like to know if anyone has information on how to spectrophotometrically assay the color rating of your beer. thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 18:31:37 -0500 From: breworks at appsmiths.com (Harold LaRoux) Subject: Kegging In HBD #1718 Ray Robert <rayr at bah.com> asks: > >I am getting ready to keg for the first time and had a question about >kegging and bottling. I would like to keep a few bottles around for >friends, parties etc. but I want to keg the majority of the beer. My >question is this: > >Is it better to prime the entire batch for the keg, carbonate and then fill >the bottles using a counterpressure bottle filler or to prime the keg and >bottles separately. I figure I would put the sugar in the corny keg and >then siphon in the beer and carbonate. I would prime each bottle >individually. > I would recommend priming the entire batch for the keg (1/3 to 1/2 cup corn sugar?), then siphon as much as you want into the keg. Then add any additional priming sugar reduced by the portion of sugar already added and the portion of the beer put into the keg. For example, assume a priming rate of 1/2 cup for 5 gal. keg beer, 3/4 cup for 5 gal. bottled beer and half is to be kegged and the other half bottled. You would add your 1/2 cup to the entire 5 gal. and siphon 2.5 gal. into the keg. You would then need to add 1/8 cup (3/4 cup desired rate - 1/2 cup already in * 1/2 batch) more priming sugar to the remaining 2.5 gal. before you start bottling. >Another question I have is how much to prime (if any) if I were to force >carbonate? No need to prime at all if you are force carbonating. >Also which is better force carbonation or natural (i.e. >priming)? I am in no great hurry so I was going to go with the natural >process. Inquiring minds want to know. > Natural carbonation seems to have a denser and longer lasting head with smaller bubbles than the same beer force carbonated. You also lose out on being able to prime with aromatic flavoring additives such as honey, molasses, maple syrup, etc. when force carbonating. You can't beat the speed to glass however. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 19:05 EST From: Tom Clifton <0002419419 at mcimail.com> Subject: RE: Sam Adams Mittlefreuh hops - -- [ From: Tom Clifton * EMC.Ver #2.2 ] -- >Date: Sat, 22 Apr 1995 11:57:39 -0500 (EST) >From: "NAME SEAN O'KEEFE, IFAS FOOD SCIENCE" <SFO at gnv.ifas.ufl.edu> >Subject: Sam Adams Mittlefreuh for Dry Hops [HBD #1714] > >Has anyone used the $12.00 Sam Adams hops to dry hop their beer? I >tried them on 2 batches and found a wierd flavor that I describe as >earthy or dirty in the beer. It's drinkable but hasn't decreased in Funny you should say that... I just kegged a batch of generic ale that has 1/2 Oz Brewers Gold for bittering and 1/2 OZ of the SA hops for flavor and I have the same earthy taste. The yeast, by the way was the Wyeast European Ale, and the grain was M&F pale ale malt. Anybody else having the same problem that Sean and I did? Tom Clifton St. Louis, MO Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 09:21:48 -0400 From: TomF775202 at aol.com Subject: Re: Bugs >Have no instructions on sanitizing wooden bungs. We (Kalamazoo Brewing) use Hoff Stevens kegs that use wooden bungs. There is really no need to sanitize them. They are packed clean, and supposedly sanitary. Remember your beer is done ie contains alcohol has a lower ph, and much less sugar; it is much less vulnerable to infection. If you worry too much soak your bug in sulfite for a minute or so. Don't soak it too long though you don't want to swell it before you bung your keg. Most homebrewers worry way too much about sanitation. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 09:27:18 -0700 (PDT) From: rodney dyer <n9410581 at janice.cc.wwu.edu> Subject: Bashing advertisers As a fellow lurker, I was just as suprised as Steven Schultz to see the free advertising go unchecked. Thanks Steven. This digest is intended for the disemination of brewing information not advertising. Which brings up an interesting point. Steven, isn't "Liberalism is a philosophy...." advertising also? R. Dyer Scouts Out! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 12:45:23 -0400 From: Pulsifer at aol.com Subject: Wort filter / Good Times Has anyone tried to use a foam filter for an aquarium power filter. I have the AQUAClear 300 and the foam filter is very large. I would cut a small hole and stick the siphon tube in it. You would probably have to dispose of it after one use, but they cost anywhere from $.59 to $1.19 (depending on size) from That Fish Place at 1-800-733-3829. Most of these filters are designed to filter at pretty good flow rates. The Good Times virus was a hoax. The real virus was the insidious note about the virus that will live on the Internet forever. One of our secretaries sent it to everyone on site. Another colleague got 16 copies of the note from different people. Dean A. Pulsifer -- Pulsifer at aol.com http://www.hal.com/services/juggle/home/Pulsifer at aol.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 12:07:56 CST From: "Bill Radosevich" <rado0005 at gold.tc.umn.edu> Subject: AD:(sort of) Seed Barley I wanted to plant barley in my garden this year, so I called and called and found someone who had seed for Robust and Morex barley. I ended up with a bushel and a peck. It's sitting on my porch, and my wife is not amused. So... If anyone wants to plant a patch of barley in their garden this year, say one square meter, (that's one square yard to the layman) send me a buck and I'd be happy to mail you some seed. According to my source, the seed rate is about 2 bushels/acre. This breaks down to 30ml/meter*meter. (about 1/8 cup) Normal yield for these seeds is 30-40 bushels/acre, so you won't get enough to brew with unless you're making a B*dw**ser clone. :-) The seed is not treated. This offer good until my wife loses her patience. Bill Radosevich 3415 Pillsbury Ave Minneapolis, Minnesota 55408 USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 13:12:25 -0400 From: kevinm at rocdec.roc.wayne.edu (Kevin McEnhill) Subject: Re: "Is My Beer Ruined?" FAQ This is great! It is nice to see some humor on the HBD. For The last six months or so, things have got pretty fierce. It was getting to the point where you needed a Nomex suit just to read ( the flames were getting very common ). But ever sence "Beer Talk", the HBD has been a lot nicer to read. Oh BTW Norm, you forgot one question, I hope you can answer it. Q: My bottles have a white ring around the inside of the neck that waves back every time I look. Is my beer ruined? ********************************************************************** * * /|~~~~~| I was told by my wife that * * kevinm at rocdec.roc.wayne.edu * | | | if I brew one more batch * * * | | | of beer she would leave me!* * Kevin McEnhill * \| | * * * |_____| I'm going to miss her :-) * ********************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 15:13:58 -0400 From: TPuskar at aol.com Subject: Copper boiling kettle I was in a Corning/Revere factory outlet today and saw a 13 gallon copper "clothes boiling kettle" on sale for about $75. It reminded me of an old kettle my grandma used to have back before indoor plumbing and electricity.<g> It is oblong in shape. I didn't take measurements but I figure it is about 30 inches by 18 inches and maybe 18 inches high. The figures might be off but the capacity is stated on the label. The bottom seemed to be welded/brazed/soldered (I don't know the proper term) to the sides. I asked the clerk (a part time college student) if it was food grade and she looked at me like I was nuts. This thing would probably span two burners on a typical stove and would seem to be a neat and less expensive alternative to a large stainless or enameled p ot. I'm pretty sure it comes with a top as well. Does anyone have any insight to this kind of pot? Is it likely that the joint is safe? Comments from the mettalurgists in the family? Would the dual heat source (using two burners) cause any problems? I can't think of any. Might be tough using an imersion chiller, though. Stirring would probably be a must. I'm also not too sure how sturdy it would be when full of wort. It had handles on both ends (along the long axis) but seemed a bit flimsy. Even if this isn't any good for beer, it certainly would add some nostalgic charm aside a fireplace. Comments would be welcome. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 12:39:54 PDT From: Lee Bollard <bollard at spk.hp.com> Subject: Incomplete fermentations After many successful all-grain Pale Ale batches, my last two fermentations have "stuck"! #1 11 lb Pale 1.5 lb 60L Wyeast #1056 Single infusion mash at 157F OG= 1.059 << FG= 1.032 >> !!! - --------------------- #2 9 lb Pale 1 lb 40L .5 lb 10L munich .5 lb wheat malt Wyeast #1056 Single infustion mash at 155F OG= 1.052 << FG= 1.037 >> (after 7 days in primary) !! Both batches appeared normal during the primary fermentation. They were active with continual bubbling through the airlock. I use a pint of Wyeast starter. Batch #2 did NOT have a layer of yeast in the carboy bottom after racking to the secondary! This surprised me. Usually there is quite a bit of yeast sediment. The beers taste FINE, but a bit sweet. Ideas: My thermometer could be miscalibrated and I'm mashing too warm. I didn't check the true mash temp inside the GOTT during the mash, I just add the same amount of 170F water as worked successfully in previous batches. So I COULD be mashing at too high a temperature. But that wouldn't explain the lack of settled yeast in the primary of batch #2 would it? (I carried the carboy downstairs about 24 hrs before racking but didn't shake it much). It also wouldn't explain my previous successful similar (pale ale) batches that fermented out to 1.012, 1.015, 1.018, etc. Infection? Both batches taste fine... I've kegged batch #1 and am drinking it. Batch #2 is in the secondary, and I would like to "fix" it if possible. Could someone suggest what I might do to diagnose this problem? I would appreciate any ideas you have of what might be wrong here. Thanks! Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 17:14:48 -0600 From: flemingk at earth.usa.net (Kirk R Fleming) Subject: Open Fermentation Okay, the results are in. The last 8 batches of beer I've done have each been fermented in a 3 gallon stone crock. During the entire fermentation in each case I've kept the crock covered with a dinner plate. The crock has a 1:1 aspect ratio, or at least the beer contained therein does. I want to thank Jim Busch in particular for inspiring me to try this--it's been a MUCH more enjoyable brewing experience than has the use of the glass, airlocked carboy. I can get in and "muck" with the kraeusen, as Jim says, smell the action, and hear the yeast doing their work. A holistic brewing experience, you might say. I think everyone I've read msgs from who "open" ferments uses the technique I first heard from Brain Gowland in the UK: to wit, they cover the vessel only when yeast activity is low, then uncover during those times of big CO2 effluence. Sure, this make sense from the standpoint of ensuring the greatest protection of the yeast IF you want to uncover the fermenter. But... Why uncover at all? I use this fermenter because it was on hand and it allows me to skim the residue off the foamy head. I like that. But I've kept the crock covered with the dinner plate because I still don't want an open invititation to airborne *anything*. What benefit do you open ferment enthusiasts see to doing a fully open-top ferment? What exactly is the point? Kirk R Fleming Colorado Springs flemingk at usa.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 19:13:44 -0500 From: ddavison at earth.execpc.com (Dennis Davison) Subject: SRM Color Guides Since the post a few days back I have been inundated with requests. Sorry, but I don't sell Retail. I only sell wholesale. The guides are available at a retailer near you. If your retailer does not carry them they can contact me from my Ad in Brewing Techniques. Sorry to waste this digests bandwidth. - -- Dennis Davison ddavison at earth.execpc.com Milwaukee, WI Manufacturer of The Homebrew Color Guide Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 21:59:00 EDT From: "Houseman, David L [TR]" <DLH1 at trpo3.Tredydev.Unisys.com> Subject: BUZZ-OFF AHA Competition From: Houseman, David L [TR] To: HBD Subject: BUZZ-OFF AHA Competition Date: Monday, April 17, 1995 10:31PM American Homebrewers Association Sanctioned Competition (And BJCP Judged) Beer Unlimited Zany Zymurgists Present The Second Annual BUZZ-OFF Sunday, June 25, 1995, 10:00 AM Valley Forge Brewing Co. Resturant and Pub Gateway Shopping Center, Rt 202, Devon, PA Location/Sponsors This year s competition will be sponsored by Beer Unlimited, BUZZ and the Valley Forge Brewing Co. Resturant and Pub. The event will be open to the public. The awards ceremony will follow the competition. Eligibility The 1995 Buzz-Off Homebrew Competition is open to all non-commercial home produced beers. Enter as often as you wish. Enter as many categories as you wish. Categories The 1995 BUZZ-Off will judge beer, mead, and cider styles recognized by the American Homebrewers Association. AHA categories and subcategories will be used (see enclosed category list). All entries must indicate category, subcategory, and style description. Sake will be enjoyed, but not judged. All entries will be judged according to the style entered. Categories receiving fewer than five (5) entries may be combined with a related category for the presentation of awards. Awards and Prizes Certificates of achievement, first, second and third place ribbons will be awarded in each category or combined category as well as for the BEST of SHOW. BUZZ will secure commercial sponsorship for category winners. A total of up to $1000 in gift certificates will we awarded. All questions and disputes will be settled by the competition organizer. All decisions will be final. Entries An entry consists of two (2) bottles, accompanied by a completed entry/recipe form -- one for each entry. A bottle ID form must be attached to each bottle with rubber bands -- No glue or tape. Beers must be in clean 10-16 ounce glass bottles, free of labels, raised glass, silk screen, or other identifying markings. Any markings on the cap must be completely blacked out. No swing-top bottles. All entries become the property of BUZZ. No bottles will be returned. Entry Fees & Deadlines Entry fees are $5.00 per entry. Make check payable to Beer Unlimited. Entries must arrive between June 7 and June 21, 1995. Entries will not be accepted before June 7 or after June 21, 1995. Send entries to: BUZZ- Off c/o Beer Unlimited Rts 30 & 401 Malvern, PA 19355 Local entries may be dropped off between June 7 and June 17, 1995 at any of the Philadelphia Area homebrewing stores. Packing and Shipping Pack in a sturdy box. Pad each bottle and the inside of the box. Line box with heavy trash bag and twist-tie securely. Pack entry forms, recipe forms, and fees outside the bag. Mark the box Fragile. UPS is recommended for shipping. Beer Label Contest Beer labels will be judged for artistic merit and appropriateness to the style for the label entry. Entry fee is $2.00. Each label must be accompanied by an entry form. In order to show off your labels in their natural environment, submit entries attached to an empty, capped beer bottle. First, second and third place ribbons will be awarded. Delaware Valley Homebrewer of The Year The BUZZ-Off is the final jewel in the local homebrewing crown: The 1995 Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year will be chosen based on points awarded from the Hops-Bops, Dock Street, Moon Madness and BUZZ-Off Competitions. Judges We will secure the most experienced, qualified judges possible. We are soliciting qualified judges and stewards from all participating homebrew clubs. Judges and stewards will be awarded experience points toward the Beer Judge Certification Program, which is jointly sponsored by the AHA and HWBTA. Prospective judges and stewards are requested to fill out the attached form. You will be contacted individually to confirm participation and given directions to the contest. Since this year we are holding this event at a new Brew Pub in our area, there is even more reason to come and spend the day out of the hot sun. The competition will begin at 10:00am. Stewards should be present by 9:00am; judges by 9:30am for their assignments. Bed and Brew Judges and stewards from out of the area are welcome to participate in the Bed and Brew program. BUZZ club members are opening their homes for those traveling from some distance who would like to have a place to stay for Saturday June 24th and Sunday June 25th. Please indicate your desire to have a place to stay on the Judge/Steward Registration Form and you will be contacted several weeks prior to the contest. You may enter using the standard recipe, bottle label and judge participation forms or For further information contact: Jim McHale at Beer Unlimited (610) 889-0905 or Dave Houseman H: (610) 458-0743 Competition Organizer W:(610) 648-4071 dlh1 at trpo3.tredydev.unisys.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 May 95 02:23:00 UTC From: mike.keller at genie.geis.com Subject: Good Times Virus is a Hoax Hi, there, just saw the posting about the "Good Times Virus." THE GOOD TIMES VIRUS IS A HOAX. The Department of Energy's Computer Incident Advosiry Capability (CIAC) declared this to be a hoax in December of 1994, and has recently issued a followup because of the resurgence of this urban legend. The HBD is not the place to discuss computer virii, but because of the nature of this digest, and because it was asked here, I thought I'd take the opportunity to present the info. If you want the complete scoop, email ciac at llnl.gov. Mike Keller, Zymurgy RT, GEnie Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 22:57:23 -0400 From: DONBREW at aol.com Subject: Warning! E-mail virus? JEEZ, not again. Isn't this incredibly old news? Do we really need to have this thread again? Let's just recap, that posting was debunked at least a year ago! Your network guys are way out of synch. Let "the good times" roll (over dead). Don Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 22:14:36 -0700 From: harvard at haven.uniserve.com (John Mrazek) Subject: Re:Masching Corn Can anybody help with process of masching of a 60% crusched corn and about 40% barley.I have tried it and it does not seem to listen to mee. Private e-mail is OK. Thanks Regards John Mrazek harvard at haven.uniserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 May 95 07:37:00 EDT From: Stanton_A <StantonA at po1.atl.bls.gov> Subject: Broken Bottles Greetings! I have amassed a collection of about 100+ bottles with which to bottle my concoctions. Last weekend I bottled my fourth batch, an old ale, and had trouble with the necks of the bottles breaking. This is only the second, at most third batch that has been put into these bottles (since I have so many), and I'm wondering if this is normal. I lost about 12-15 beers due to broken necked bottles. In the previous three batches I had only lost a total of two beers to broken necks. My question, is it normal for these bottles to have such a low life-span? I'm using a double-winged bottle capper, should I invest in another capper that isn't so rough on the necks? It didn't seem like it was taking a whole lot of force to break the necks. Private replies are more than welcome! Thanks in advance, Art Stanton Stanton_A at bls.gov | artstan at netcom.com PC/Network Specialist Bureau of Labor Statistics - Atlanta Regional Office ------- =_aaaaaaaaaa-- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 May 1995 08:27:20 EDT From: usfmchql at ibmmail.com Subject: re: Apologies/Gelatine/Black Malt/Who's Who First, I apologize for the AGE of this material, but my mailer at oeonline has been screwing up royally. I've made three attempts to post this to the Digest in the past two weeks to no avail. If one of those notes comes ripping out of the cyber-vortex they seem to have fallen into, I apologize in advance for the wasted bandwidth... NOW: >On the melting gelatine (To boil, or not to boil) thread... If I inoculate viscous gelatine/wort slants (due to the melting problem), and then refrigerate them after growth begins, will the setting of the gelatine in any way harm the yeast? Would pitching the entire blob into a starter be an exercise in futility (due to gelatine's propensity for adsorbing yeast)? >On the black patent thread (sort of)... I recently snagged a bag of what I thought was black patent. Upon arrival home, I found it labelled 'Hugh Baird & Son English 2 Row Black Malt'. This is black patent, right? >On Dave Draper's (now dead) Who's Who thread... Why don't we put together a non-prestigious, non-ranked, no assignment of "you're better than they are" directory of HBD participants; posters and lurkers alike? Do it just the way Dave suggested except that anyone and everyone could put together a brief bio for inclusion. Participation would be voluntary, of course. (I'm not sure if I'm volunteering either. Just suggesting at this point...) -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- PLEASE do not respond/reply to usfmchql at ibmmail.com - It is being used in desperation. Any/all private e-mail resulting from any of the above should be directed to pbabcock at oeonline.com. TIA. "Drink all you want - I'll brew more!" Best regards, Patrick G. Babcock Michigan Truck Plant PVT Office usfmchql at ibmmail.com 38303 Michigan Avenue (313)46-70842 (V) -70843 (F) Wayne, MI 48184 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 22:52:03 From: brashs at iccu6.ipswichcity.qld.gov.au (Martyn Westguard) Subject: Re:Food & beer/Cider,Mead 1. Can anyone suggest any recipies including Beer as part of the ingredient list,and what beer style goes best with what food, or where out there in "beerspace" I could find such recipies, E-mail is fine to save bandwith. 2. I have accquired a couple of cartons of apples and am wondering if someone could point me in the direction of cider "cyberspace!" if such a place exists, and lastly any areas that specialise in Mead,on the net,again private e-mail would be appreciated... Thanks in advance, Marty... brashs at gil.ipswichcity.qld.gov.au(Martyn Westguard) Return to table of contents
Date: 01 May 1995 06:50:06 PDT From: "TCRGR at chevron.com" <TCRGR at chevron.com> Subject: NOTE 05/01/95 06:50:00 To: OAS --SSW1 OPEN ADDRESSING SE *** Resending note of 05/01/95 06:34 FROM: TCRGR at chevron.com SUBJECT: Mini-Keg Conversion I have a two mini-keg system (5 gal each) that I want to convert to homebrew use. The bottom of each keg has a 5-6" hole. I plan to get a metal plate to cover the hole and hold it in place with the ring that the kegs originally used. I plan to drill holes for a pressure relief valve and a valve for CO-2. Question 1: Does this sound correct? If not, HELP! Question 2: Where can I get these valves? (San Francisco Bay Area) Answers: E-mail Please. tcrgr at chevron.com * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ** ** ** ** ** CRAIG ROSE -TCRGR- CHEVRON PARK V-1260 ** ** ** ** ** * ** ** ** ** ** 842-2756 ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 May 95 09:56:25 EDT From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) Subject: RE: first decoction Hi All, In HBD#1718, Jeff Stampes writes about his first decoction mash: >After >30 minutes, I used a saucepan to ladle out 10 qts. of a relatively thick grist >(calculations of dry and liquid volume showed this to be approx. 1/3 of the >mash). I heated this to 152F and held for 20 minues before bringing it to a >boil. After boiling 20 minutes, I returned it to the mash, hoping to strike >152-155F. I came in low, ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is a common problem, one that's easily solved. Next time, pull 40%-50% of the thickest portion for the first decoction, instead of the 1/3 that's commonly recommended in the literature. This is especially important if you mash in a cooler as Jeff does, and can't add heat to the tun easily. By pulling a larger fraction, you are much less likely to undershoot the sacc. rest temperature when the decoction is added back to the rest mash. You will likely have a little of the decocted mash left over when the desired sacc. rest is attained. Simply cool the decocted mash to the same temp, (it will cool very quickly), then add it back to the rest mash. >so I simply pulled another 5 qt decoction, brought >that to a boil and returned it to the mash. This time, it did stablize at >154F. This wouldn't qualify as a 'true' double decoction, since I didn't >boil it for any length of time the second time, correct? Actually, I think decoct means "to remove", so technically this counts as a decoction. This step won't be necessary if you pull 40%-50% for the first thick decoction. >All in all, the day was a little longer than my usual step-infusion mashes, but >turned out to be a lot easier than I had anticipated...maybe a triple decoction >belgian is in my future? Try a bock using double decoction instead. Hold your rest mash at 140F and 158F, and use a grain bill of ~80% German Munich malt. Do this, and you will see the true benefits of decoction mashing. >72 Hours after pitching, it went haywire on my. I woke up in the middle of the >night to find that the 5 gallon batch was blowing out of the 6.5 gallon carboy >having already blown out the airlock. I guess I have to add my testimony to >those who have noted #3068's violent fermentation nature! Mine too. I brewed an 11 gallon batch of dunkelweizen a week ago Saturday, split it into two 6.5 gallon carboys. There was over 3 inches of headspace in each carboy. For the first three days of fermentation, there was a nice, normal 1" thick krausen. On the morning of day 4, both carboys suddenly looked liked Mt. St. Helens. The headspace was completely filled with foam, there was thick, gooey looking, foamy mess spewing from both airlocks. I sanitized a couple of clean airlocks, replaced the filthy ones, and took them upstairs to clean them. Five minutes later, when I returned to the basement, the newly installed airlocks were also spewing forth!! I ended up covering the carboys with 1 gallon plastic bags, secured with rubber bands. When I got home from work that night, the volcanoes had subsided somewhat, the plastic bags were half filled with foam. In 8 years and ~300 batches, I've never had a fermentation take off after 3 days of normal activity as this one did. I've also used Wyeast 3068 in the past without this problem. I bought a fresh package this winter, it seems to be associated with the cultures that were sold recently. Anyone know what's going on here? Maybe if Dave Logsdon is reading this, he'd care to comment? Thanks, Jim dipalma at sky.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:08:33 -0400 From: PatrickM50 at aol.com Subject: What's fermenting? Greetings! Has this ever happened to you? You make a nice 5 gal. partial-mash batch of stout. It ferments down to 1.020 from 1.051 and all apparent fermentation in the primary has essentially stopped. You dry hop with 1 oz. of East Kent Goldings pellets in the secondary glass carboy just for fun. Two days later millions of tiny bubbles start appearing in the beer and a lovely head forms in the neck of the carboy. After three weeks of observing these champagne-sized bubbles you decide the batch got a wild yeast or some bacteria is now multiplying wildly or something so you make another identical 5 gal batch. The first batch doesn't smell or taste terrible but still . . . The second batch reacts the same: Primary ferment goes to 1.020 with one bubble in the airlock every 3 minutes or so. Dry hop with 1 oz of EKG pellets. Two days later the tiny bubbles are back en masse along with a nice head that my beer mug would envy! This sort of bubbly action has never happened in my beers before. Sure, some fermentation continues after the initial loss of CO2 by transferring to the secondary, but nothing like this. Could there be something in the hop pellets that would cause this? Any wild thoughts or related experience would be appreciated! Cheers, Pat Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:23:59 -0400 From: Btalk at aol.com Subject: Head formation The subject of head formation came up a a recent beer club meeting. I suggested various grains, mentioning proteins, etc. Some one else suggested that the hops had something to do with it. I didn't want to call bull**** on this person in the middle of the meeting, so I thought I'd do a short presentation on the subject at a later date to set the record straight. Imagine my surprise while in the midst of collecting/reviewing references, I find a sentence or 2 in 'The New Complete Joy...' that says hops can affect head !! That was news to me ( I must have overlooked it before- It has been quite a while since i've TNCJOHB as my primary reference). This is the only place I seen that mentions hops as having anything to do with head formation/ retention, and it doesn't fit with everything else I know about this. Does anyone have any thoughts on this hops-head connection? The only thing I could think of was a detrimental effect if the hops had tons of oils. Regards, Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton, NY <btalk at aol.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 May 1995 10:14:15 EDT From: A2J at CU.NIH.GOV Subject: ALT BEER Neophyte questions of the day: 1. I'm interested in making a German style ale - an altbier. Are alt beers typically fermented at warm temps for the first week and then racked to a 2ndary and then cold fermented for 1-2 weeks? If so what are typical ferment temps for both? 2. What is the general opinion on liquid extracts vs DME ? I bought some Ireks LME for my alt - has anyone had good or bad experiences? 3. Any other suggestions or recipes for an alt beer would be greatly apreciated Thanks for your help. Sincerely Andy Lake (a2j at cu.nih.gov) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:40:03 -0400 (EDT) From: barber eric stephen <barber_e at einstein.eng.ohio-state.edu> Subject: No commercials/oatmeal Yesturday I read: >Recently, I have noticed some obvious self-promotion on the HBD by >"Bill the Beer Man" whose moniker describes his business, includes his >phone number, and provides an e-mail address for getting one of his >catalogs. While I am certainly no "heavyweight" I hate seeing ads on the HBD. I have been aggressively targeted by ads since I was born and do not need the bull sh*t also on a NON-COMMERCIAL digest. From what I understood by reading the digest policy note when I first subscribed, was that commercialism is a no no. I also read the HBD will be policed by the masses (thats you and me). So quit advertising!!!! There are plenty of other places to advertise without exploiting a free service. OK, enough of that. MYETTE at delphi.com asked about using oatmeal. The oatmeal I used in an oatmeal stout was quick oats from the bulk food section of the grocery. The beer turned out so good with the perfect amount of smooth oatmeal taste. FYI I used around 10 oz. in a five gal. full mash batch. Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 May 95 10:52:01 EST From: dsanderson at msgate.CV.COM Subject: Kitchenaid Grain Mill - Bad Rap After sending the original request out I received a good deal of very mixed feed back, thanks to all reviews good and bad! Most of the input was quite negative overall. However when I considered input that referenced actual experience using the mill, it was mainly positive. Based on further e-mail discussions with an owner/user I bought one($99 for a new one in a damaged box). I brewed my first batch with it this weekend and was thrilled by it's performance. I'm sorry I didn't actually time it but I estimate that I processed the 20 pounds of grain in 30 minutes or less. The other user I discussed this with quoted his throughput at 10 pounds in 13 minutes. I'm used to using an adjustable Schmidling Malt Mill at a shop I used to buy malt and came close to matching that crush on the fly. Now I buy via internet at $49.50 for 55lbs 2 Row British Pale Ale Malt post-paid to my door. So, I'm quite pleased with my setup and can give it 2 thumbs up since both hand are free during grinding. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:54:32 -0400 From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com> Subject: Mash Temperature control. Hello all, I am currently getting ready to try *All Grain* brewing (I have 24 extract batches under my belt) and have been tinkering with several ideas for equipment design. I have been following the HBD for over a year and have accessed and read the info in the archives. After serious efforts at relaxing and avoiding worry while consuming home brew I have formulated the following design. I propose to use a converted sanke keg (legal aquisition) with the top removed below the support ring and place a coil of copper tubing inside the the walls of the keg. I would then circulate boiling water through this reverse heat exchanger from a second keg on a propane burner using an electic pump. Mash temperature would be maintained by duty cycling the hot water pump. +---->------>---------->---+ | +---<---+ | | | | | | | | | |~|~~~~~~~~~|~| | |~|~~~~~~~~~~~~~| |o| +o| | | | | |o| o| PUMP | | |o| MASH o| | | Boiling | |o| o| | | H2O | |o+ o| +--<---| | |***screen****| | | \ / \ / ----++----- ------------- Drain ^^Burner^^ The design has been governed to some degree by the materials that I already have on hand (I am an admitted junk collector and already have a high temperature pump, not food grade, a source of 3/8" copper tubing and a digital T/C readout with stainless probe and digital control outputs). I think this setup will provide good temperature control with little danger of scorching the grains. Even though I have most of the parts on hand this project is still on the drawing board and I welcome comments and suggestions from the HBD collective conciousness. TIA! I will post a summary on this project when finished and the first few batches have been brewed. Chris Cooper , Commerce Michigan --> Where ever you go <-- ccooper at a2607.cc.msr.hp.com --> There you are <-- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 01 May 95 11:05:03 EST From: dsanderson at msgate.cv.com Subject: Carboy Covers I'm brewing 10+ gallons batches and use two Carboys. Until it gets warmer in New England and my basement warms up, I place the Carboys on my kitchen counter where they become welcome members of the family. I place them side by side with a dark golf shirt over each. I further dress them up with a tie and place one arm over the shoulder of the other. A few months ago McDonalds was giving away Tasmanian Devil Mugs. I cut the bottoms out and place them over the air locks. It's utterly ridiculous looking and nobody complains about the space they occupy. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:08:10 -0400 From: JLinscheid at aol.com Subject: New Miller book Yesterday I was searching the Library of Congress via Telnet (locis.loc.gov), and decided to see what was listed about brewing. I was surprised to see that Dave Miller will soon release a new book: Miller, David G., 1945- [Homebrewing guide] Dave Miller's homebrewing guide : everything you need to know to make great-tasting beer / Dave Miller. Pownal, Vt. : Storey Communications, 1995. PROJECTED PUBLICATION DATE: 9510 ISBN: 0882669052 (pbk.) LCCN: 95-13385 I downloaded all of the book titles I could find on brewing, yeast, and hops. I is too large (~110k) to post here, but I would be glad to pass along a copy to anyone who is interested via private E-Mail. James Linscheid JLinscheid at AOL.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 09:23:15 -0600 (MDT) From: Kirk Fleming / Metro Technologies <flemingk at earth.usa.net> Subject: Returned mail: OG Calc Erratum > In my OG calc post you may not have noticed my error in computing wort > weight. As I often do, I failed to multiply by the gravity and wrote: > > 32 * (133/128) = 33.25 > > which was wort vol (fl oz) * (oz wt/fl oz). I should have written > > 32 * (133/128) * 1.020 = 33.9 > > The difference in the answer is small, but I post the correction in case > anyone tries to follow the reasoning with their own data. I routinely > make this error, so heads up. > - ------------------------------------------------------ Kirk R Fleming / Colorado Springs / flemingk at usa.net - ------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: 1 May 95 11:02:18 EST From: M.Marshburn/D202 at cgsmtp.comdt.uscg.mil Subject: OG Calc Fellow Homebrewers I want to thank you all for providing much appreciated and used information on brewing. I need some help. I've never tried to figure (or cared) what the OG of my brews should be. Last night I figured I would use CP's formula in THBC as I had made some modifications to my tun and procured the Whirlygig sparger. His formula is %extract/8.6 *lbs grain/Gal wort * 4 to get OG (.78/8.6=.090*10=.9/5=.183*4=0.73= OG 1.073). I had made a brown ale using 8lbs 2row, 1lb aromatic, 1/2lb carapils, 1/2lb wheat, 1/2lb homemade brown (10lbs) . Ground in a Corona mill, mashed/sparged flour and all. The .78 is what I came up with using his grain extract table for all the grain listed, I didn't give any points for the brown. I used 5 gals 175F water for the sparge, the thermometer in the grain bed stayed at 167F during the 50min sparge. I thought I had gotten good extraction due to the measured gravity of 1.058. I had insulated the zapap tun with two layers of 1/2in carpet padding wrapped with duct tape. Will the Gott/Rubbermaid cooler help improve the extraction, or maybe some improvement in my technique? Recommendations, suggestions? Thanks! m.marshburn/d202 at cgsmtp.comdt.uscg.mil Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1720, 05/02/95