HOMEBREW Digest #1730 Sat 13 May 1995

Digest #1729 Digest #1731

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Re: Counterflow chillers ("R. James Ray")
  Natural Gas ("Timothy P. Laatsch)
  Steeping Grains/DMS/Sanitation (Rob Reed)
  Apricot Hefeweizen (Jeff Guillet)
  Re: Wort Chillers ("Stephen E. Hansen")
  Re: Electric stovetop brewing (MHANSEN)
  Stove-top Brewing (mike hitchcock)
  Re:  Wort chillers (Dan Pack)
  Steeping, I asked WHAT? (Russell Mast)
  brewpubs in Maryland (Tim Lawson)
  DMS: Causes and Remedies (DON)
  Competition Results?????? (Lee Allison)
  HBD Grain Summary (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com>
  Counterflow Wort Chillers (A. J. deLange)
  (Fwd) Firkin Dog Bolter (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com>
  Cleaning beer lines (McKee Smith)
  Gott?/Priming?/NW Local? (MClarke950)
  Grand Cru? (MClarke950)
  Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #17... (SMKRANZ)
  alcohol and sweetness (Andy Walsh)
  Careful w/ Quick Silver in your Brews! ("Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556")
  Old Malt = Compost??? (Robert_Ser)
  FG and mouthfeel (Dave Whitman)
  CO2 Regulator Pressure Fluctuations (Terence McGravey {91942})
  Does steeping hops add bitterness? (david lawrence shea)
  corn sugar/microwaves/Bell's yeast ("Allan Rubinoff")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 08:36:53 -0700 (PDT) From: "R. James Ray" <ray902 at uidaho.edu> Subject: Re: Counterflow chillers > My question is how have others built theirs and how close do you get > your wort to the water temp that is cooling it? > > I've seen these things advertised by HB shops as being able to cool > within 5 degrees of the cooling water....and they are smaller than mine. > Does anybody know how the store models are constructed? > > -Jay Reeves in Huntsville, Alabama I have used counterflow chillers for several years and I am on my third and planning my fourth. My first one was the garden hose type chiller with 25' of 3/8" heat exchanging coil. I had to add a valve for fine water control because I frequently cooled down to 65-66F and had slow starts. I confess I worried some about infection an killed this chiller with excessive cleaning (chlorine damage). My second chiller was designed to be more compact than the first. It was a partial counter-flow bucket. An old blowoff hose jacketed the last 3' while the rest of the tubing sat in the bucket. It used 4X the water and was not capable of over chilling. The last chiller is the PVC jacketed heat exchanger. I used 4" PVC and wrapped the copper around a piece of 3" pipe. Three feet of copper were lost while wrapping, so I ended up with about 22' in the coil. I keep the flow of water counter to the flow of wort I made baffles out of margarine tub lids. After trimming to the size of the pipe I cut a slit from the center to the outside. These I twisted into the coil to force the water to spiral inside of the PVC. The resulting chiller is nearly as efficient as the hose type and much smaller (about 18" long). My next one will use larger pipe and set upright like a bucket. The larger coils should make for less constricion and faster flow. I hope this helps. R. James Ray Treaty Grounds Brewpub Moscow, ID Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 11:52:53 -0400 (EDT) From: "Timothy P. Laatsch <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu>" <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu> Subject: Natural Gas Hey All, I seem to recall some discussion a few months back regarding using an old water heater burner for a natural gas cooker. If anyone has any experience rigging such an apparatus, please drop me a line----as I told another on-liner, I'm having severe scale-up pains. I presume this natural gas cooker can be used safely indoors, which is where my interest lies. Any info on cost, output, safety, installation, etc. is greatly appreciated. Bones *+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++* | Timothy Laatsch |email: laatsch at kbs.msu.edu | All-grain | | Graduate Student |phone: 616-671-2329 | & | | Michigan State University |fax: 616-671-2351 | Mostly | | Kalamazoo, MI (Bell's Country)| | Insane | | | | "...like cops who hide holsters beneath their lapels, she had dangerous | | things, but she downplayed them well...." ---Walt Mink | *+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++* Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 11:00:20 -0400 (CDT) From: Rob Reed <rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com> Subject: Steeping Grains/DMS/Sanitation Michael_Millstone-P26948 at email.mot.com asks about handling specialty grains: There are probably as many procedures as there are brewers, but I do the following: Add crushed specialty grains to 170-175F brewing water and hold for 30 min. I usually add 2.5-3.0 qts water per lb. grist. Remove grains, add extract, continue. I'd suggest using one or more grain bags to minimize grain separation hassles. Since I already own a vertical mash tun, I steep my specialty grains in my tun with 3 qts. brewing water per pound (I don't sparge). The Papazian method of adding grains to cold water, bringing to a boil, and removing grains works, but inconsistent results are common because the amount of steep time depends on your heat source and the amount of specialty grains used. ***** Tom Baier <BAIER_T at SALT.PLU.EDU> asks about DMS: While boiling time, chilling time, choice of malt, and less commonly infections affect DMS quantity in the wort, in my experience malt selection is the most significant factor. I find that DWC lager malt and domestic "Pale" malt such as Klages and Harrington produce moderate DMS, while Durst produces a large amount of DMS. If you are presently using domestic pale malt, I'd try a couple of batches with DWC or Munton and Fison Pale Ale malt: because these malts have lower SMM levels, DMS levels in your finished beer should be lower. ***** From: TomF775202 at aol.com writes about sanitation: > Also remember a brewery is not a large sterile facility, it is a plant, a > factory if you will. Granted, breweries are not 100% sterile facilites, but... Professional brewers understand critical processes in brewing, e.g. the bottling line is *less* critical because commercial beer is typically pasteurized *after* bottling or canning. Also, tour routes in large breweries typically don't include a walk through the primary fermentation areas or yeast lab. Clearly, these are critical areas in the big scheme of beer production. Yeast pitching rates in sucessful commercial operations are sufficient to kick-off fermentation quickly and minimize the chances of infection. Most homebrewers habitually underpitch yeast and probably would be shocked if they saw how much yeast is pitched in commercial operations. Large commercial operations employ quality control at many phases in the production of beer. By obtaining feedback in this way, contamination levels are known with high confidence. If there is a problem, it is resolved in a scientific way. Most homebrewers don't have these analytical capabilities and overkill their sanitation to be on the safe side. Cheers, Rob Reed Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 15:46:00 GMT From: jeff.guillet at lcabin.com (Jeff Guillet) Subject: Apricot Hefeweizen A while ago I remember reading something that claimed Pyramid's Apricot Hefeweizen was brewed without *any* hops whatsoever. Can anyone substantiate this? Any tips on brewing it? My wife loves this stuff and I'd really like to make as close a clone as possible for her. I'm going to get some apricot extract from HopTech (the same supplier that Pyramid uses). How much should I use for 5 gallons? One 4oz bottle at bottling time? I know, I know... "It's not *real* beer, blah, blah, blah." But she likes it and I don't think it's too bad myself. Thanks in advance! -=Jeff=- Pacifica, CA jeff.guillet at lcabin.com * CMPQwk 1.42-R2 * Reg #1757 * Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 09:51:34 -0700 From: "Stephen E. Hansen" <hansen at hops.Stanford.EDU> Subject: Re: Wort Chillers In HBD #1728 Danny Gilliam writes: > In HBD1725, MHANSEN at ctdmc.pmeh.uiowa.edu sez: > <bunch-o-stuff-gone> > > They use a counterflow chiller; the kind > > that has the copper flowing through a large piece of PVC rather than a > > garden hose. > > I built one of these counter-flow chillers that has the coiled > copper in the PVC pipe. I designed it so the water flows the opposite > direction of the wort flow in the copper tube, and also tried to set-up > a spiral of the water inside the PVC using 90 degree elbows inside the > thing (in theory it sounds cool, but...). > ... > > My question is how have others built theirs and how close do you get > your wort to the water temp that is cooling it? > For those who are interested in counterflow chillers the HBD archives at ftp.stanford.edu has a file containing a number of HBD articles on the use and construction of counterflow chillers. The file is called counterflow.Z and is in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer/docs. I used an immersion chiller for many years but during our drought years finally decided to build a counterflow chiller. A description of the one I built is described in the above file along with others. As far as its efficiency goes, it's almost too efficient for my purposes :-). I brew ales and unless I turn the water flow *way* down the resulting wort temperature is often too cold for the yeast. I haven't compared the final wort temp against the incoming water temp but I'd guess their pretty close. One reason for that is that I used 30 feet of hose/tubing. I could have gotten by with about 20 feet given my water temp. This chiller took a little effort to build, sliding 30 feet of copper down an equivalent length of garden hose took some time. I should have tried squirting some liquid soap down the hose. But it wasn't that expensive and was pretty straightforward to build. I recommend it highly. Stephen Hansen Homebrewer, Archivist =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Stephen Hansen, homebrewer | The church is near, but the road is icy. Stanford University | The bar is far away, but I will walk carefully. hansen at Hops.Stanford.EDU | -- Russian Proverb http://www.stanford.edu/~hansen =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 13:02:09 -0600 From: MHANSEN at ctdmc.pmeh.uiowa.edu Subject: Re: Electric stovetop brewing Hey All, Dan Pack asks in HBD 1728 about brewing on electric stoves. After taking a hit on my house when I sold it last fall, I was forced to move into an apartment until finances rebounded. Much to my dismay, it was equipped with an electric stove. The first thing I did, even before most of the boxes were unpacked, was to fill up my 33 qt enamel on steel brewpot with water to see if I could bring it to a boil. To my surpise and delight, it took only 30 minutes to come to a boil. I can do full boils on my electric stove with no problem. However, I do need to keep the pot almost all the way covered in order to keep the boil going, which is a small problem only for volume reduction of all grain batches. My pot covers two burners and since it rests directly on the elements, a certain amount of carmelization will result. Not a problem except for the lightest of beers. So, while not optimal, brewing with electric stoves can be done. Of course, none of this will be a problem when construction on my new house, complete with custom basement brewery, is finished mid-June. But that is a post for another time......:-) Brew on my friends, Mike (michael-d-hansen at uiowa.edu) PS - Don't smoke grains. It makes you cough. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 95 12:12:13 -0700 From: mike at unival.com (mike hitchcock) Subject: Stove-top Brewing In HBD #1728 Dan Pack asked > I'm limited to my stovetop so my question is is it practical > to boil 6-7 gal of wort using an electric stove? Yes! I've been using a 32 qt enamel-on-steel canning pot for the last year (much cheaper than stainless, just don't chip the enamel!). I too am limited to an electric stovetop, but the kettle fits over two burners. With the lid on, I can bring 6 gal of water to boil in about 20-25 minutes. And the boil does roll merrily. In fact, I think the two separate heat sources genaerate a sort of convection turbulence--with reasonable stirring, I've never had scorching or sticking on the bottom when I do partial mashes. Well, I guess I'm no longer a lurker. Hi all! Mike Hitchcock Portland, OR Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 12:26:26 -0700 From: danpack at grape-ape.che.caltech.edu (Dan Pack) Subject: Re: Wort chillers In HBD #1728 Danny Gilliam asks about his wort chiller: > A test run with boiling water showed that it chilled the water to within > 10 degrees. However, when I ran hot wort thru it, it only came within > ~30 degrees of the cooling water. I finally realized that the wort was > thicker than the water and the cooling efficency wouldn't be the same. First let me say that I don't have a counter-flow chiller but I'm a PhD chemical engineering student so I sort of understand how these things work. I don't think your problem is with the construction of your chiller. My guess is that your problem is one of two things. (1) Your water flow is too slow or (2) your wort flow is too fast. You want the water to flow as quickly as possible so that it has little time to heat up. In contrast you want the wort to flow slowly so that it spends more time in contact with the cold water. Were you letting the wort siphon run full speed? If so, try pinching off the end of the hose some to slow down the flow. Of course, you have a compromise between how much you cool the wort and how long it takes to cool the whole thing. Some experimenting to figure out the optimum flow rate is necessary. What do you counter-flow chiller users say? How fast do you run your wort through? Hope this helps. Good luck. Dan Pack Pasadena, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 14:44:14 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Steeping, I asked WHAT? > From: Michael_Millstone-P26948 at email.mot.com > Subject: Steeping Grains Question > I am moving up to partial grain brewing and have a question when a > recipe calls for "steeping" the specialty grains. ... > What is the correct procedure and what might be the implications or > consequences of doing one versus the other. I don't know "the" correct procedure, but if you subject the grains to too much heat for too long, they will leach tannins into your beer. Tannins have a harsh bitterness and other flavors innappropriate for most beers. How long is too long, how hot is too hot? A 5 minute boil is way too much. 10 minutes at 170 never caused me much harm. I haven't personally been anywhere in between. > Subject: microwaves and dry hops Weird. Anyway, I thought I'd mention that I often use a microwave to heat water to a boil, and then use that to heat-sterilize various things the same way one might use regular boiling water. It works. (This should be obvious, but you never know.) > There, in the fermenter, was a dead bat. Ungh. > From: rafe at lattice.com (Rafael C. Camarota / SJC Design Engineer ) > Subject: Wheat Beer Color I rarely had ANY light colored beers using extract. Maybe that's the problem and not the wheat. The only wheat beers I've made are all-grain, and they've been VERY light in color. > Subject: Wyeast 1338, Death by Mead, Ovens > > The reputation mead has for hangovers is unfortunately very, very true; Ungh. Yep. > From: eamonn at chinook.physics.utoronto.ca (Eamonn McKernan) > Subject: Body and gravity > > Russel Mast asks about the relation between FG and "body". Wow, someone with a name so much like mine! It doesn't matter much, but I wasn't the one who asked, I simply responded to the question. (And my name has two 'L's. It's no big deal, it's just, well, it's my only name, at least that's what "they" still think.) -R Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 95 17:36:36 EDT From: Tim Lawson <lawson at clcunix.msj.edu> Subject: brewpubs in Maryland Can anyone recommend some good brewpubs that I should visit when I'm in Baltimore and Washington, D.C. during the first weekend in June? Thanks! Tim Lawson Cincinnati, Ohio lawson at clcunix.msj.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 11 May 95 18:57:33 EDT From: DON <DON at nova.mhs.compuserve.com> Subject: DMS: Causes and Remedies This thread has me going because I have experienced similar problems with DMS. Tom Baier suggests possibilities in HBD #1728. Here is my contribution, FWIW. We know DMS is formed by precursors found in malt (SMM, for example) and I won't delve into this since some of you have already expounded in great detail on the subject. A couple of points, however, should be restated to get at the bottom of Tom's problem. <1> DMS is constantly being produced when the wort is hot. During the boil, DMS is driven off along with other volatiles and water vapor. The longer the boil, the more DMS is driven off. Tom says he boils for 75-90 minutes. Maybe he should boil for 2 hours, making sure he has a vigorous UNCOVERED boil. <2> Malt type has a great influence on DMS production. Pale malts, low kilned malts, and less modified malt have more DMS precursors than other malts. For example, Tom says he brews British Ales, does he use Pale Ale malt (low in DMS precursors), or domestic 2-row (high in DMS precursors)? The choice of malt will have an effect on final product. <3> I am convinced that fermenter geometry does have an effect on DMS and on other variables in brewing. Using corny kegs for primary fermentation and secondary fermentation will, in my experience, result in higher terminal gravities, more DMS and other "undesirable" compounds in your beer. Given the small surface area of a corny keg setup, and because it is an inherently "closed" system (even with blowoff tubes), volatile compounds like DMS have a harder time leaving your beer. For example, I recently brewed a light, pale lager with only 5lb of Klages malt. I fermented in a stainless steel pot (1:1 h to w ratio) for 10 days and racked to a corny keg. Boil time was only 75 minutes. Result: DMS was well above the sensory threshold. Another brew, an English Bitter, used 8 lbs of pale ale malt, fermented 7 days in same primary fermenter, and 100 minute boil. Result: no detectable DMS. The moral: I don't think that Tom's splashing wort is good technique, but I also doubt it adds much to the DMS problem. His mash temps seem OK, and even if they were high, wouldn't cause DMS, IMO. High final gravities could be the result of his mash temp, ingredients (i.e. high proporion of dextrin and/or crytal malts), or unhealthy yeast (underpitching, not aerating, highly flocculent stain, etc.). Don Rudolph Seattle, WA don at nova.mhs.compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 16:37:47 -0700 From: grandcru at ix.netcom.com (Lee Allison) Subject: Competition Results?????? Hello, All. We had a thread a few weeks ago about posting competition results here. I have a request for some results! I recently had a brew in the MUGZ Land of the Muddy Waters Competition. I have tried contacting Jeff Grillo, the competition organizer, but have been unable. Jeff, if you are reading this please let me know how I did, or if I can expect to get the judge's sheets sent to me. Oh, and to all who asked me about where I got the 20 gal pot, I got mine from Academy Sporting Goods in San Antonio, TX (210)590-0500 for a low-low $120. This includes a lid AND a strainer basket. They said that they would be willing to UPS if the customer would pay the freight costs. Good Luck. P.S. 10 gallons of wort CAN boilover in a TWENTY gallon pot! ;^) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ "At what point does a computer stop losing value because it's obsolete, and start gaining value because it's an antique? 'Cuz, I think I'm there!" Lee Allison a.k.a GrandCru at ix.netcom.com San Antonio, Texas vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 20:42:51 +0000 From: "Patrick G. (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: HBD Grain Summary Very recently someone on the digest asked about grain characteristics (I'm sorry: I've misplaced both your post and your e-mail address). A few months back, I asked the same question and received a very nice HBD Grain Summary from Jim Dipalma (thanks again, Jim!). In light of this, I'd like to return the favor to the HBD. Send me an email note, and I forward the file to you. (And anyone else who needs a copy ;-) I believe it was Jim who compiled it for us. I am unsure whether or not it is carried in the Stanford archives (or on Spencer's Beer Page - but it should be ;-) I claim no credit. Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock | "Drink all you want - I'll brew more!" President, Brew-Master | and Chief Taste-Tester | "Let a good beer be the exclamation point Drinkur Purdee pico Brewery | at the end of your day as every sentence pbabcock at oeonline.com | requires proper punctuation." -PGB Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 16:58:56 -0500 From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange) Subject: Counterflow Wort Chillers In #1728 Danny Gilliam was concerned about the performance of his counterflow wort chiller and wondered, in particular, how close exit wort temperature is to coolant temperature in the experience of other users. The answer is "that depends" and it depends on three things: 1. The rate at which the cooling water flows through the jacket 2. The rate at which the wort flows through the inner tube and 3. The thermal conductivity between the wort and coolant channels. The faster the coolant flow, the slower the wort flow and the better the thermal conductivity the closer the exiting wort temperature will be to the entering coolant temperature. To quantify the performance of such chillers I have come up with a parameter I call the 'Q' of a chiller. A chiller consisting of 26 feet of 3/8 refrigeration tubing in a 3" coil inside a 5" PVC pipe (very similar to the chiller described) has a measured Q of about 65 gph. The easiest way to benefit from knowledge of Q is to note that if coolant flow is maintained at or above Q and wort flow at or below Q/5 then the chiller operates with better than 98.5% efficiency. Efficiency is defined as 100(Wort Inlet Temp - Wort Outlet Temp)/(Wort Inlet Temp - Coolant Inlet Temp) so that if the wort outlet temperature is the same as the coolant inlet temperature the efficiency is 100%. Also 98.5% efficiency means that the wort temperature drop is 98.5% of the inlet wort - inlet coolant difference. For a typical situation the wort would be at say 200F and and the coolant at 50F for a drop of 150F. 98.5% of this is 147.75F so that the exiting wort temperature would be at 52.25F. Thus for a chiller like the one described one ought to get outlet wort within about 2 degrees of the coolant as long as the coolant flow is at 65gph or more and the wort flow at 15 gph or less. Note that increasing coolant flow improves efficiency but not dramatically. Increasing it to 10Q (keeping wort flow at Q/5) changes the efficiency to 99.3%. Similarly, decreasing wort flow increases efficiency but not appreciably (we are already at 98% at coolant flow Q and can only go to 100%). Conversely, increasing wort flow has a dramatic effect on efficiency. Doubling it to 2Q/5 (coolant flow at Q) drops efficiency to 85%. Similarly, dropping coolant flow below Q degrades performance but not so dramatically at first. A coolant flow of 0.3Q gives 95% efficiency (for wort flow of Q/5) but further reduction to 0.2Q lowers efficiency to 80%. Wort should not differ appreciably from water in its performance. It is a little denser so that, for example, in the case of a 1.055 wort one may wish to keep the wort flow less than Q/(5*1.055) but this amounts to a flow rate reduction of only 5% or so. One thing to look out for in using these things is to make sure that the jacket is filled with water and not air. It is advisable to operate them in a vertical position with the coolant outlet at the top so that any air which enters can escape. As a final note the numbers given above should be taken as representative - not exact. There are several sources of error (i.e. the measurements required) in the determination of Q and, while similar chillers have similar Q's, they are not exactly the same. AJ ajdel at interramp.com A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore! ajdel at interramp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 20:53:52 +0000 From: "Patrick G. (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: (Fwd) Firkin Dog Bolter Hello again (and on such short notice)! Does anyone have a recipe (all-grain, please) for FIrkin Dog Bolter? I understand the mash schedule is particularly important to achieve the flavor profile of this brew... Private e-mail fine. Thanks! Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock | "Drink all you want - I'll brew more!" President, Brew-Master | and Chief Taste-Tester | "Let a good beer be the exclamation point Drinkur Purdee pico Brewery | at the end of your day as every sentence pbabcock at oeonline.com | requires proper punctuation." -PGB Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 20:21:53 -0500 From: mcksmith at iadfw.net (McKee Smith) Subject: Cleaning beer lines I have a Cornelius keg system with a single tap attached to the front of my refrigerator. While I have a brush and wrench to take apart and clean the tap, does anyone have a suggestion on the best way to clean the lines. I was without beer of about two month, a sad state but one I have corrected! The little floaties I'm now finding in my beer make me think I need to clean the line as I have already cleaned the tap. The tap was a mess of mold and while I can't see anything in the clear line, I'm sure something is in there. I was thinking about filling a keg with B.E.S.T. solution and running that through. I was then going to flush with hot water. Anyone have a better suggestion? Thanks in advance! McKee Smith Email: Mcksmith at iadfw.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 22:19:48 -0400 From: MClarke950 at aol.com Subject: Gott?/Priming?/NW Local? ------------------------------ Question: Gott Digest A couple of weeks ago someone offered to mail out a digest of Gott cooler ideas. I recently tried to contact him but he has already left for Chicago. Could someone please email me a copy of this? ------------------------------ Question: Priming FAQ? Awhile ago someone metioned a priming FAQ (or at least a well written article). Would someone please email me a copy or let me know what the digest number was so I can retrieve it? ------------------------------ *** LOCAL QUESTION -SEATTLE/PORTLAND/VANCOUVER BC- *** I'm trying to find a wide selection of Belgium Ales here in the Great Northwest. Can anyone point me to some decent shops? Actually any shops that carry a wide selection of beers would be a help. Private email encouraged, will compile a listing if I get enough bites and will send it out if requested. ------------------------------ BTW Its good to hear that there are woman brewers out there. TIA Mike MClarke950 at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 23:14:49 -0400 From: MClarke950 at aol.com Subject: Grand Cru? Howdy again, Is Grand Cru a style, sub style or brand name? I've seen the name mentioned in a few brewing publications, but no real info. Any info would help satisfy my curiousity, sample recipes a plus! Private email are fine, If I got a decent response I'll post what I find out. TIA Mike MClarke at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 00:07:58 -0400 From: SMKRANZ at aol.com Subject: Re: #2(2) Homebrew Digest #17... >I am about to make my forst batch of home brew and I would like >any tips anyone might have for a successful first run. Thanks in >advance for any help. I've been brewing for about 9 months (extract/grain, no mashing yet), and believe that the first big hurdle is getting the first batch under your belt to prove to yourself that you can in fact make beer that is at least as good as what you buy in the store...even on your first run. I also edit a homebrew club newsletter (in Maryland). The strongest suggestion I make to new brewers (not that I'm all that experienced) is to pick out a couple of relatively simple extract or extract/specialty grain recipes from The Complete Joy of Homebrewing, take the recipe to a supply shop, get all the ingredients (allowing for some variation on the hop varieties and brand of extract, depending on what your supplier has in stock) and follow the recipe closely. I have only had a couple of batches (out of 22) go "south" on me, and those that did were the ones where I followed the instructions on one of the "kit in a can" deals, didn't boild the wort and added a ton of sugar even though all the brewing literature says not to do these things. Steve Kranz smkranz at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 May 95 11:09:22 EDT From: awalsh at pop03.ca.us.ibm.net (Andy Walsh) Subject: alcohol and sweetness The body/mouthfeel debate reminds me of something a bit strange (IMHO) that can be found both in the Miller and Fix brewing books. (it is not surprising they tend to agree with other since I believe George Fix had some input into Dave Miller's). That is, that alcohol increases perceived sweetness. I agree with Dave Draper that this seems counterintuitive and is contrary to my own experience too. Every homebrewed beer that I have made that tastes sweet has had a high terminal gravity (eg. >1.018). That does not mean that every beer with a high terminal gravity tastes sweet. I recently made a stout that finished around 1.020 that had quite a dry taste. The darker or stronger beers (ie high OG) seem to cope a little better with high FG. I know that if I make (say) two American pale ales, both with OG around 1.055, one of which finishes around 1.012, and the other 1.018, that the latter will definitely taste sweeter than the former. The former has more alcohol. If I understand Miller and Fix correctly, the former should be sweeter. Or maybe they are saying that if two similar beers with different OG's, finish with the same FG, that the one with the higher OG will be sweeter due to the higher alcohol content. It seems bleeding obvious to me that high FG causes higher perceived sweetness, and that low FG (ie. more alcohol) causes a drier beer. Think of vodka - as close to pure ethanol as most are likely to try - is that sweet? Most would say no. I am also aware of the theory that the sugars left in beer after fermentation finishes are not perceived as sweet, but contribute to those elusive terms "body/mouthfeel". Well I perceive sweetness. Perhaps this is caused by *incomplete* fermentations, in which the "sweet" tasting sugars have not been fermented due to some brewing fault, but I don't really believe this is true in all cases. Now I have a pretty high level of respect for both these authors, and so all I can think is that I have misunderstood their comments somehow. If anyone can enlighten me as to why alcohol causes sweetness I'd appreciate it, ***************************** //// Andy Walsh from Sydney //// awalsh at ibm.net //// phone 61 2 369 5711 ***************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 06:40:38 -0500 (EST) From: "Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556" <BRADLEY_DAVID_A at Lilly.com> Subject: Careful w/ Quick Silver in your Brews! Regarding the recent posts about mercury contamination: Don't play around with this stuff! Reading the MSDS for mercury or its oxide is * very * sobering, even for someone like myself who deals with potent toxins daily. Some Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) excerpts are: "Acute conc'n. of 28 mg/cubic meter immediately dangerous to life "or health. Ingestion causes neurotoxic/nephrotoxicity. Chronic "(low level ie in beer) exposure causes mercurialism, characterized "by fine tremors and erethism (mostly psych. disturbances), and may "lead to mercury build up in the eye, disturbing vision. Threshold "Limit Value (TLV) = 0.05mg/M3 and would be exceeded if the contents "of a small clinical thermometer were dispersed in a closed "100'x100'x15' room. Important points: 1. Mercury is very toxic at low doses, adsorbed by contact, inhalation or ingestion. 2. Mercury is somewhat volatile, as are its oxides formed on air exposure, and these vapors HAVE KILLED people who were not aware of this volatility. 3. Mercury forms complexes with a variety of other metals/elements, and I do not believe you can form one complex (ie Hg-S) with complete exclusion of, say, Hg-Fe(O)x in your brew pot. 4. Don't use Hg thermometers! Many (most?) industrial applications have been replacing these with thermocouples or with alcohol thermometers for years now, due to to this toxicity, waste disposal issues, and a steady dwindling of Hg recoverers for wastes. My apologies for the bandwidth, and I appreciate/look forward to brutal sarcasm as much as anybody, but this is a serious issue. If you have spilled mercury at home, I can suggest some cleanup hints. But if you've done this in your cookware, I think you should seriously consider the item(s) a loss. There are ways to "leech" the mercury, using strong acids, but this is impossible to do in the home. Oh yes, don't pitch the pots in MY water supply either:::contact a local/state environmental agency and seek their advice for disposal. Seriously. db in Indy From: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036) To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com") cc: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 May 95 07:57:44 edt From: Robert_Ser at ceo.sts-systems.ca Subject: Old Malt = Compost??? Message: Brewing buddies, Can any of you tell me what the shelf life of malt is? I have about three pounds of Canadian 2-row (crushed) that has been kept in a sealed plastic bag in a cold room for about three months now. Is it still good enough to use, or should I just dump it on my compost heap? (That would be a big three dollar loss, but heack, I hate waste!) Rob in Montreal Robert_Ser at ceo.sts-systems.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 08:14:35 -0400 From: dwhitman at rohmhaas.com (Dave Whitman) Subject: FG and mouthfeel Another lurker comes out of hiding. I've been following the thread on the effect of FG on mouthfeel with some interest, but I think that one important factor has been ignored. FG measures the amount of stuff in solution in your beer, but it doesn't tell you much about the chemical nature of that stuff. In particular, there is essentially no information about molecular weight of the dissolved materials. Viscosity of solutions is profoundly affected by the molecular weight of the dissolved materials. To a first approximation, amino acids will make a similar contribution to FG as an identical weight of protein (protein is a high molecular weight polymer which is a string of amino acids connected together). Glucose will have a similar contribution to FG as the same weight of an oligio or poly-sacharride. However, in each case, the low molecular weight material (amino acids, glucose) will have MUCH less contribution to viscosity when compared to the high molecular weight material (protein, polysacharrides, etc). I submit that viscosity is a significant contributor to mouthfeel. I think that the missing piece of the puzzle on mouthfeel is in the details of the enzymatic activity during mashing, which sets the molecular weight and molecular structure of the unfermentable materials, and thus the viscosity of the beer. Imagine two beers with equal FG's. In one beer, the unfermentable materials are all tri-sacharrides and low molecular weight peptides. This beer has low viscosity, and feels watery in the mouth. The other beer has penta-sacharrides and medium molecular weight proteins. It has a higher viscosity, and feels thick and rich in the mouth. - --- Dave Whitman Rohm and Haas Specialty Materials dwhitman at rohmhaas.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 08:26:55 -0400 From: Terence McGravey {91942} <tpm at swl.msd.ray.com> Subject: CO2 Regulator Pressure Fluctuations Hello All, I've just began kegging beer using Corny kegs and a CO2 sytem and on my sixth keg (now being dispensed) I've been having some pressure fluctuations. If I set the regulator to say 8 lbs. the regulator can be heard filling the tank and then stop at 8 lbs. . But then if I check it say an hour later, the pressure is at 15 lbs. . All previous kegs stayed right on the money where i set it. I bought the regulator new through Superior. The fermentation is complete as I achieved my FG. It worked perfectly up until this batch. Do regulators require some lubrication that I don't know about ? My feelings are that there is something wrong with the regulator but I figured I would tap the knowledge of the Digest befor I sent it back. It is a double guage regulator on a 10 lb. tank. Thanks in advance for all input ! Terry McGravey tpm at swl.msd.ray.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 08:10:02 -0500 (EST) From: david lawrence shea <dshea at indiana.edu> Subject: Does steeping hops add bitterness? I sampled my latest batch last night, a SNPA clone with a low OG (23 pts efficiency, gads how did that happen, maybe the homebrew guy measured my grain incorrectly. Anyway, this was the first time I steeped my finishing/aroma hops at the end of the boil for 15 minutes or so. The beer, although green (6 days), had a great hop taste to it but was slightly more bitter than I anticipated. I am sure this will fade in a week or so but it got me to thinking. If one steeps hops for 15-20 minutes, does this contribute IBU's? My intuition says no, but since they are steeped at close to boiling temps, my brain thinks that there may be a possibility. Any comments or ideas? David L. Shea Indiana University dshea at ucs.indiana.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 May 95 09:54:42 EST From: "Allan Rubinoff" <rubinoff at BBN.COM> Subject: corn sugar/microwaves/Bell's yeast Several things in HBD #1729 caught my eye: Alan Keig (akeig at library.adelaide.edu.au) says: >Apparently there's a terminology difference between the United States >and Australia; what you call Corn Sugar is known as Dextrose [aka >Sucrose] over here. Dried Corn Syrup is a wheat-derived adjunct. This >leaves me with the question: what do you call Dried Corn Syrup in the >USA? I don't know if it's exactly the same thing, but the closest equivalent would probably be wheat malt extract, which can be obtained either as a syrup or in dried form. The terminology difference is interesting. The word "corn" actually just means "grain," not a specific grain. However, the word is generally applied to whatever the predominant grain is locally. In Great Britain, it's wheat, so wheat is often referred to as "corn." When the English started settling North America, the predominant grain was maize, so the term "corn" was applied to it. ************ On sanitizing in microwave ovens: A lot of the confusion here is due to the fact that people are talking about two entirely different things: 1) Sanitizing with boiling water, which is heated in the microwave. 2) Sanitizing *dry* things in the microwave. Obviously #1 works. Boiling water is an effective sanitizer, and the microwave oven is a convenient way to boil water. The confusion is about #2. The theory, I guess, is that anything you're trying to kill (microbes, wild yeast, etc.) contains water, so the microwaves should kill them. I don't know whether this is true, but I wouldn't risk it. In any case, the folks who say "of course you can sanitize in the microwave" seem to be thinking about scenario #1, while the folks who say you can't are thinking of scenario #2. Apples and oranges. ************** Bob Paolino (uswlsrap at ibmmail.com) says: >I have a very happy starter going, born of the dregs of a bottle of BPA. >Question: is it 1056 or is it something else (and if so, what)? >Maybe one of you kazoo guys (Tim or Tom) can answer with some >authority? I don't know what strain it is, but it's certainly an extremely unflocculant one. During a recent trip to Michigan, I had some bottles of the PA. I noticed that rather than clumping at the bottom of the bottle (as in most bottle-conditioned beers), the yeast resembled the stuff in a snow shaker. I couldn't avoid getting a lot of it in my glass. Despite this, I was extremely impressed with Bell's beers. Served on draft at the pub adjoining the brewery, the PA was a religious experience. Extremely fruity -- which makes me think the yeast is not 1056. Anybody know if Bell's beers will be available on the east coast anytime soon? If not, I guess I'll have to visit my parents a little more often . . . -Allan Rubinoff <rubinoff at bbn.com> Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1730, 05/13/95