HOMEBREW Digest #1806 Sat 12 August 1995

Digest #1805 Digest #1807

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  replies/funny little tale (GubGuy)
  re:No-stir immersion chiller (Steven A. Smith)
  Colorado Pub/Micros ("Barry Blakeley")
  More Heat Exchanging/Bathtub Brews (DocsBrew)
  Who's Next?? (AlBrewer)
  Bitters and malt (Jim Busch)
  Dunkleweizen recipes ("The name if Buff. Max Buff.")
  Non-Shaking Forced Carbonation Question (Ken Schroeder)
  August September BURP News on the Web (Rick Garvin)
  Stella Artois available in U.S.? (BrewNews)
  Newbie question on B-Brite ("Mullins, Terry")
  Spruce Beer? ("\"\"Richard M. Erickson\"\"")
  Cold Clarifing Concept (mikehu)
  B-Brite and rinsing ("Allan Rubinoff")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 11:43:03 -0400 From: GubGuy at aol.com Subject: replies/funny little tale Dion states: >While your experience may be immersion chilling from boiling to 75F in >15-20 min, mine certainly was not. It takes over an hour to do it for <snip> Usually takes me about 40 minutes with lots of stirring. I too find it incredible that people are claiming a 15-20 min cooling time. I guess it's possible, but I've never experienced it. Gary asks: >PS Did Ray Ownby (HBD 1794) get his burner from Cabelas? Let me know if you >are hoppy with it! Yes I did. It turned out to be a King Kooker (didn't say that in the ad), a camping model. I guess that means it has no legs, it's basically a 14x14x8H box. Works for me. I must say what a difference from boiling on the stovetop. MUCH better, I'll never go back to the kitchen for my boils. Much has happened in my brewing world since my last post. I managed to get 2 kegs cut up successfully to go to a big 3 tier system. BTW, anybody have any nifty uses for the diptubes? I hate to throw away all that good SS. I got my first brew in many months completed in a record time (for me, anyway). I also have just purchased my first kegging setup. I want to again thank everyone who had tips for my keg conversion; I'm not completely done, but I have a good start and some great ideas on how to finish up. Now to my last brew; Shootin' Blanks IPA. Read on and the name will explain itself. Last friday I had a little visit to the Dr. for a vasectomy. With brewing time at a premium these days, I looked at my afternoon off from work not as a time to rest up from my procedure, but as good brewing time that would otherwise be wasted. So you guessed it; I brewed beer. I must say this was the most prepared, most planned out batch I have ever done. Didn't want to strain myself of do any heavy lifting, for obvious reasons. Things were going great until the SO came home, then I was in BIG trouble. I've compiled a short list of responses that others may find useful in a similar situation: But my yeast was ready, I HAD to brew! I rested for an hour during the mash. I won't have any time to do this for weeks if I don't do it today. The grain was already crushed and I didn't want it to go bad. The Beer Gods will take care of me. Yes, I'm being careful. No, it doesn't hurt too bad. While I wouldn't recommend being as foolish as I, everything did go smoothly. Probably due to all the thought and planning I put into it beforehand. Just remember, I'm a professional idiot, don't try and duplicate my acts unless you are too. No real reason for relating this story; 1804 was a little thin and I thought I'd beef up the next HBD a little and show the foolish lengths some of us will go to for the sake of our beloved beer. Surely I can't be alone in this; actually I'd like to hear from others with foolish brewing stories; (FBS?). That's it from the beer wastelands; -Ray- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 13:26:45 -0400 From: Steven.A.Smith.1 at gsfc.nasa.gov (Steven A. Smith) Subject: re:No-stir immersion chiller Being a lowly malt extract brewer (about 2 years now) and, therefore, not knowing any better (read TJOHB), I've always placed my finished wort (started with 1 1/2 gal of water for a 5 gallon batch), pot and all, in a water bath (sometimes with ice in the summer months) stiring and taking the temperature until it reaches around 170F. I then transfer to the plastic fermenter and add about 2 1/2 gallons of pre-chilled water from 1 gallon plastic jugs placed in the fridge the night before. While stirring like crazy to properly aerate my wort, I take the temperature, usually around 85F or so, and add the last gallon of water, sometimes temperature measured from the kitchen faucet, to reach the desired temperature (around 72F). So far clear, great tasting beer! What am I doing wrong? steve Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 11:37:05 mst From: "Barry Blakeley" <BlakeleB at den.disa.mil> Subject: Colorado Pub/Micros Hi, Tom. There are a number of breweries and brewpubs in the Denver metro area. My favorites are the Wynkoop Brewery, Champion Brewery, and the Sandlot Brewery (at Coors Field) all in downtown Denver. The Wynkoop has great food (buffalo burgers, pasta, etc.) and first-rate brews. Their Railyard Ale and their stout are two of the best brews I have tried. Also, the entire second floor is reserved for billiards. It is located near Union Station, a few blocks south of Coors Field. The Champion Brewery is on Larimer street, specifically Larimer Square. It has a sports motif and serves food "like mom used to make." The Champion brewmaster is the former Coors (Golden, CO) brewmaster, but I forgot his name. I really enjoy their red and their brown ale. It's a really fun place with interesting decor. The world's only brewery in a ballpark is the Sandlot Brewery in Coors Field (20th & Blake). The food is good and the beers are not what you might expect from Coors. They make a brown ale, a red ale(?), a wheat, a stout, and I think an amber ale. The brown ale was sold as a Scottish Ale in the ballpark and I enjoyed it thoroughly. The Right Field Red and the wheat beer were good as well. The food is good and the menu has many choices. During a game, you can sit outside the restaurant, i.e. right field concourse. You can't really see the field from there, though. If you get a chance to go to the mountains, the Breckenridge Brewery in Breckenridge is recommended (there is also one across from the Sandlot, but I've not been there). The Hubcab in Vail is a great place, too. I hope this helps! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% "Those aliens from the 8th dimension? I'm looking at them right now!" Barry Blakeley blakeleb at den.disa.mil Denver, Colorado If I had 3 stars, my opinion would be that of DISA. %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 14:26:49 -0400 From: DocsBrew at aol.com Subject: More Heat Exchanging/Bathtub Brews Okay, I give. It seems to make sense that stirring your wort makes it cool faster, once you think about it. I just don't want to think about it any more!!! I got some SERIOUS replies by private e-mail. Perhaps more than any human oughtta know. Thanks to all who replied. Now.....has anybody ever used recirculated pool water to cool their brew? Seem like a good conservation measure to suck cold H2O out of that big ol' reservoir and send it back to the jaccuzzi - besides, then you have a place to unwind after a long day of brewing!! I have all the hose I'd need (the pool's about 40 feet from the brewery), and there's a spigot right outta the pump, so most of the work's already done. Ideas?? ******************** And.....sometimes when I mention to folks that I make my own beer, they reply with, "Oh, my grampa did that in the bathtub." Well what the heck's up with that? I can't imagine that they mashed in the tub (doesn't seem very efficient OR simple), and the only use I can see for a tub is as a heat sink. Any great explanations for this - or even some folklore? Thanks a ton, Doc. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 14:30:31 -0400 From: AlBrewer at aol.com Subject: Who's Next?? It began with Budweiser picking up Redhook. Then Miller picked up Celis. And the rumor is that those two megas will own (okay, *plan* to own) 75% of the craft brew market by the year 2000. Has anybody heard who could be next? Anyone care to venture a guess? Bets? Al Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 15:11:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Bitters and malt Kirk asks a good question: <Looking over four judges' comments regarding an ordinary bitter <entered in two contests, two recurring themes were "more malt" and <"undercarbonated". The OG for this beer was about 34 (by design), <and it was bottled with the carbonation level I usually use for <bitters (12 psi condition and serve). One judge did say the <condition was "ok for style", but everyone seemed to agree it was <low. <have a question about the "more malt" comments. Since simply adding <more malt would raise the OG of the beer, I don't think that <is what the judges intend. I think their actual complaint is a <mouthfeel issue since overall the flavor was judged 'balanced'. I <reason one solution is to cut back the pale ale and compensate with <increased carapils and/or crystal, then balance this change with additional <kettle hops. Having no further information than the two constraints I <mentioned (maintain OG and increase body/mouthfeel), I'd like your comments <regarding my solution or other suggestions. Kirk didnt say if he using British Pale ale malt, my guess is not. This this the first thing I would change in adjusting this beer. Use a good British Pale ale malt from Munton & Fison or Marris Otter or Hugh Baird. The other factors do involve the use of British Crystal or DeWolf CaraMunich, you want a caramel malt with between 60-80 Lovi. I would avoid the use of carapils, either US or imported in bitters. I agree that the FG would be better in the 1.010 - 1.012 range. I have also found that by brewing high gravity (1.070) and diluting to 1.040, my bitters are fuller, but I also mash with some Munich when I do this. You can also mash at a higher temp, and see how this works, but the usual practice in the UK is to mash at 152F for one hour. The other important factor is yeast choice. While I can make a good bitter using American ale yeast, they always taste better with one of the British strains. Also, these beers dont hold up well or travel well, so even if the beer is great on tap it might be not so great at the judging table. Have fun, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 08:00:27 EDT From: "The name if Buff. Max Buff." <johnm at giant.IntraNet.com> Subject: Dunkleweizen recipes Does anyone have a good all grain dunkelweizen recipe they could share with me. Private e-mail is probably best. Thanks ! John Mccafferty Chelmsford, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 08:53:14 PDT From: kens at lan.nsc.com (Ken Schroeder) Subject: Non-Shaking Forced Carbonation Question A few weeks back, an article was posted by one of our main contributers about forced carbopnation without shaking. Sorry, I don't remember who. I tried the recomendation and found it to be a very good method of forced corbonation. As promoised, CO2 bubbles are small, a very fine carbonation indeed. The problem I found is controll of the amount of disolved CO2. From memory, the recomendation urged an injection of 40lbs CO2 for the first 2 hours, then 25lbs every 2 hours or so for 2 days. I now wish to be able to control the CO2 volume disovled. Can the poster, if possible, please elaborate on the volume control. I did not receive my HBD today (AI robot at work?), so a private email to kens2lan.nsc.com would be appreciated. Thanks. Hoppy Brewin' Ken Schroeder Sequoia Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 11:34:55 EDT From: rgarvin at btg.com (Rick Garvin) Subject: August September BURP News on the Web The most recent BURP News is available on the Web on the BURP home page, URL http://www.btg.com/~rgarvin/burp/burp.html Also, check out the announcement of MASHOUT, the Mid-Atlantic regional homebrewer campout in the mountains of Maryland August 25-27. Cheers, Rick ===================================================================== | Rick Garvin (RG79) BTG, Inc. | | Senior Systems Engineer Information Systems Group | | Internet Systems Architect 1945 Old Gallows Road | | rgarvin at btg.com Vienna, VA 22182 | | rgarvin at burp.org 800-548-7544 x6630, 703-761-6630 | | http://www.btg.com/~rgarvin FAX 703-761-3245 | ===================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 15:55:10 -0400 From: BrewNews at aol.com Subject: Stella Artois available in U.S.? Does anyone know if Stella Artois Pilsner is available anywhere in the U.S. and if so, who imports it, where they're located and/or how to reach the importer. Any information you have would be appreciated. Thanks. Sara Doersam Pleased respond to: BrewNews at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Aug 1995 16:06:15 -0500 From: "Mullins, Terry" <tmullins at mailcenter.tsmi.iitri.com> Subject: Newbie question on B-Brite Sorry if this is a naive question, I'm currently sitting on my third batch. I've been reading HBD submissions lately regarding B-Brite. My (newbie) book says I should use Clorox & Water to sterilize & clean my equipment. Is B-Brite better, worse, cheaper, more-expensive? Thanks in advance, Terry Mullins Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 16:19:13 -0400 From: "\"\"Richard M. Erickson\"\"" <rmericks at mailbox.syr.edu> Subject: Spruce Beer? Hello, fellow netters! This is my first submission to this list.. Hope it works. I am interested to know if anyone has experimented with a Spruce beer. I talked with a local brewer and she said one she tried was great, and another was not drinkable. She didn't have either recipe. Any ideas/recipes? Thanks in advance, Mark Erickson rmericks at mailbox.syr.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 13:28:20 PDT From: mikehu at lmc.com Subject: Cold Clarifing Concept Greetings All- XDCHRISTIAN (Sorry I lost your real name) Writes: > The problem is that some of my friends who I have been turning on to > homebrew are concerned about the haze and sometimes I get the little > chunckies. > Would someone be willing to help me out with the right clarifiers. > I know gelatin, policler, isinglass all work on different things like > chill haze and proteins... What I am considering is after primary > fermentation is over (for ales), I would turn the frig down to 40-50F > for a week or 2. Would this clear my beers with out having to add > clarifiers? Here's an idea you may want to try. I am able to get crystal clear beer every time without using any clarifiers at all. All I do is put my secondary fermentor (glass carboy) in my beer fridge 2 days before I transfer to kegs. (My fridge stays around 40F) This seems to have two effects - The yeast and any hop seeds (or little chunckies) drop right out of suspension, and the yeast sediment at the bottom congeals. When I siphon the beer, I am able to get every last drop without picking up the yeast slurry from the bottom with my racking cane. Give it a try. I really like the fact that I can get crystal clear beer without adding anything "strange" to my brew. Not to mention the added hassle and risk of contamination. Cheers, Mike H. mikehu at synopsys.com "I feel more like I do now than I did before!!!" Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Aug 1995 14:01:33 -0400 From: "Allan Rubinoff" <allan_rubinoff at mathworks.com> Subject: B-Brite and rinsing In HBD #1805, Harry (hbush at pppl.gov) writes: > There's been some talk that what was > originally thought to be etching is actually a deposit- do you folks rinse > after the B-Brite? I've seen somewhere that you don't have to but have > never believed it. I always rinse with hot water after using B-Brite (I'll > risk those few cooties), and especially do now that it does this suds > thang. Whenever I've let a B-Brite solution just evaporate, it leaves a > major white film/crust- very unappealing for a cleaner/sanitizer. So far, > with hot water rinsing, never an infection (knock wood). B-Brite is not a no-rinse sanitizer. You may be thinking of iodophor. Things sanitized in iodophor can be air-dried without rinsing. By the way, you'd probably be better off using cold water to rinse, rather than hot water. A water heater is actually a pretty bacteria-friendly environment. The water is generally about 130-140 F, which promotes the growth of bacteria, whereas cold water is less hospitable. Allan Rubinoff arubinoff at mathworks.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1806, 08/12/95