HOMEBREW Digest #1814 Fri 25 August 1995

Digest #1813 Digest #1815


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  Back Online (AGAIN) (The Mercenary Hacker)
  Hailing Rob Wallace/MM Motorization ("Fleming, Kirk R., Capt")
  Gas grill to propane burner?/I_want_my_HBDeeeeeee (Brian Pickerill)
  Mt Hood aroma? / Thermometer Q (Dave Draper)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 02:37:03 -0600 From: The Mercenary Hacker <rdg at hpfcmgw> Subject: Back Online (AGAIN) The digest is back up and operational on hpfcmgwfc.hp.com. There was one additional glitch a few days ago with my aliases file, and so any articles or requests sent in before about 9:00 AM Eastern Time, on Thursday, August 24, are in limbo and should be resent. Rob Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 95 12:16:00 MST From: "Fleming, Kirk R., Capt" <FLEMINGKR at afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil> Subject: Hailing Rob Wallace/MM Motorization In a fairly recent HBD Rob Wallace requested info from those who had successfully motorized the MaltMill (tm). I tried mailing to Rob for the results of his research but my msg to him bounced. I've also searched past HBD issues (which is tough without a search engine up and running, hint, hint) but couldn't even find articles I know I've read. For example, I remember folks discussing optimum roller RPMs once. So...if you have had first-hand experience I'd like to know about your results, or if you know of any sources of info regarding MM motorization, please point me in the right direction. Finally, since one unit to be motorized will be used in a supply shop, I'd like all ideas regarding safety switches, drive clutches, shear-type shaft keys, etc., that would help avoid horrible disfiguring accidents and/or a broken mill. I'm thinking a hopper lid lockout switch, for example. KRF Colorado Springs Return to table of contents
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by BSUVC.bsu.edu From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill) Subject: Gas grill to propane burner?/I_want_my_HBDeeeeeee Hi, I talked my SO into a real, charcoal grill. So, I have an old gas grill sitting around unused. Looks like a prime sacrifice to the brewing gods. Each time I look at it I snarl, wishing it was a king cooker type burner. I have some stove grates that would easily hold my 1/2 barrel cooker. I have some concrete blocks. I am ready to take apart the grill and attempt to use the burner and the gas regulator, supply, etc... parts for making beer. The only problem is that the burner isn't shaped that well, and the air intake setup is designed for the grill. (Of course) Does anybody know of a cheap ($10) source for propane burners? Any easy way to construct one? Warnings about how I am about to blow myself up in the process? ;-) - ---- Everybody got the new address? I'm jones'n here. (subject sung as in the Dire Straights/Sting song...) - --Brian K. Pickerill <00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu> Muncie, IN Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 07:44:34 +1000 From: david.draper at mq.edu.au (Dave Draper) Subject: Mt Hood aroma? / Thermometer Q Dear Friends, hope this comes through to the new posting address OK. Got a couple of quick questions. Mt Hood hops: As I understand it, this variety has mild, subtle aromatic qualities, and together with middlin' AA (what I'm getting is 5 to 5.5%) makes it a good, versatile hop. Not long ago I made a sort of hybrid brown ale (grain bill to emulate Wee Heavy and used 1728 Scottish but hopped to ~37 IBUs) in which I added 40 g of these Hood pellets at T-5 min. I expected a substantial hop nose, but am very disappointed to report that it is virtually nonexistent. The beer is still good, just not what I had aimed for. Does anyone have experience with late additions of Hood, and what do you find? Thermometer: Awhile back a section of the red-colored alcohol (is that what it is?) in my mashing thermometer (10-100C markings but has space to reach probably 130 or so, about 30 cm long) somehow detached from the main mass, and now sits about 30 or 40C above the rest--there is an air bubble between the main mass and this small bit, which has a length equivalent to about 2 deg. C. The small section moves up and down, keeping the same distance from the top of the main mass. I have tried a couple of times to get it back by putting the thermometer in boiling water but it still stays away. Do I have to add the couple of deg. represented by this small length to the temperature indicated by the top of the main mass in order to get the correct temperature--i.e., is it an additive thing? Or do I ignore that little bit and just read the top of the main mass as the real temperature? My intuition says the latter--if there were just a column of alcohol or mercury or whatever in an open-ended tube, the main mass would not know what was above it (air or more alcohol/mercury). But I am not sure--any help from the physiobiochemicozymurgicologists out there would be appreciated. Thanks and Cheers, Dave in Sydney "...one shouldn't waste homebrews getting drunk." ---Erik Larson - --- *************************************************************************** David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia Email: david.draper at mq.edu.au Home page: http://www.ocs.mq.edu.au/~ddraper ...I'm not from here, I just live here... Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1814, 08/25/95