HOMEBREW Digest #1817 Tue 29 August 1995

Digest #1816 Digest #1818

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  LP Burners (blacksab)
  replacement spigot for round, 10 gallon coolers (Chuck E. Mryglot)
  Honey Wheat Recipies (Tom Neary)
  2 old HBD articles (BF3B8RL)
  Air stone in the kettle ("Keith Royster")
  Re-  RTP Yeasts ("Allan Rubinoff")
  More Chilling Data/Trub Removal (Tim Laatsch)
  Alt, Kolsh, and Barleywine (ESMPD)" <gcunning at Census.GOV>
  Mash Jacket... ("Bessette, Bob")
  Re: 1 1/2" false bottom (hollen)
  Freshness Peaks in Beer (Steven W. Schultz )
  Thread21 / cats_meow 3 (gravels)
  Graf Style Vienna Recepit Request (Ken Schroeder)
  Re[2]: water filter suggestions? ("Colgan, Brian P.")
  Brewing in the Middle East (Chris Eykamp)
  Re: Finishing Hops and Wort Chilling (Jay Reeves)
  re: counter pressure bottling foam/RTP Yeast in SF Bay Area? ("Robert Marshall")
  using lactic acid (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
  Filtering out hops, break (David Mercer)
  mango beer (Alan P. Van Dyke)
  Bad French for "Eight". (Russell Mast)
  Yeast starters, hop back and big pots (Christopher P. Weirup)
  Schneider Weisse (Chuck E. Mryglot)
  Celis Brewery tour info (David M. Muzidal)
  All-Wheat Beer Response (Steve Alexander)
  Thermometer/burner (HomeBrewer)
  Burners and Conversion/Keeping cool (Brian Pickerill)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 02:27:22 -0500 From: blacksab at siu.edu Subject: LP Burners Yet another question for the collected wisdom of HBD: I just got a BRINKMANN Country Cooker Outdoor Gas Cooker/Fryer and after a first failed test, I finally got 6-gallons of water to boil after 1-hour. This seems a little long to me. Here's my setup: -15-gallon budwiser keg as boiling kettle -Heavy angle-iron stand to hold keg -tapped into LP line in the house--1/2-inch OD copper into 5/8-inch OD main line. -make-shift burner assembly Since a keg will not fit directly on a Country Cooker, I initially set the cooker under the angle-iron stand, but the flame was too low, and I gave up after 1-hour with water temp. at only 180-deg. I tore the cooker apart and made a new stand that raises the flame so it conforms to the bottom of the keg, but not so high that excessive CO is produced. Now, full boil in exactly 1-hour. Any way to make THIS cooker work better (what's going to happen when I move up to 10-gallon batches)? What about unscrewing the burner from the carburator(?) and installing a commercial stove burner or a wok burner? Any ideas? TIA, --Harlan Bauer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 08:01:07 -0400 From: cem at cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot) Subject: replacement spigot for round, 10 gallon coolers I have jest received a round, 10 Gal Igloo cooler which I want to modify to be a mash/lauter tun. I am looking for a source to find a replacement for the push-button spigot that comes with it. Anyone have any advice? Thnaks in advance ChuckM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 08:12:52 -0400 From: tom.neary at peri.com (Tom Neary) Subject: Honey Wheat Recipies For my second homebrew batch I would love to make a honey wheat ala Pete's. Does anybody have any good recipies for a honey wheat brew? thanks in advance, Tom N. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 09:09:28 -0400 From: BF3B8RL at TPLANCH.BELL-ATL.COM Subject: 2 old HBD articles Glad to see HBD is back in action. Here's two comments that have been awaiting the HBD return: -=-=-=-=-=-=-=- I've been watching the debate on high (~80F) pitching temps and I have this question for those advocating low (~65-70F) pitching temps. In many of my recent brews, I have pitched in the 75-80 degree range, and kept the fermenter at about 75F until the yeast was quite active (usually not more than 24hrs). Then I have moved the fermenter to the basement or frige, whichever was appropriate for the particular yeast strain. The main reason for doing this "temperature shuffle" was that I was experiencing long lag times from pitch to activity (36hrs or more) if I pitched lower than 70F. I seem to be aerating sufficiently (I get complete fermentations) and am pitching about 10oz of yeast+starter for a 5 gallon batch. So my move to higher pitching temps was to shorten the lag time and prevent the beasties from getting a hold in my beer while the yeast geared up for production. My question is this: am I doing any "high temperature harm" to my beer by keeping it warm through the respiration stage of the yeast? I have not experienced any major ester or fusel problems with my beer, but haven't won any awards either. Am I simply not providing enough pitching yeast? TIA, Chas Peterson -=-=-=-=-=-=-= Recently I too brewed a fruit (strawberry) beer that came out amazingly low --- 0.999! I'm not sure what caused such a low result -- perhaps the additional water in the berries or the pectic enzyme I added to the secondary fermenter contributed to the low FG. To help things out, I decided to add 2/3 cup of lactose at bottling. Now, about four months after aging, the beer is a tremendous hit, and I'm not missing the body at all. Sure, its a little on the thin side, but for most fruit beers, this is A Good Thing (TM). The strawberry flavor really shines through, yet you know its beer (not soda or wine cooler...). And most suprizing to me -- it has tremendous head retention. I also used a little polyclar (a tablespoon?) at bottling, which I think helped make the beer crystal clear. This beer continues to improve with age. My advice -- add that lactose or maltodextrine with a little polyclar and don't worry. With patience (a few months at least) your beer will be just fine. - Chas Peterson Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 09:32:34 +0500 ET From: "Keith Royster" <N1EA471 at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us> Subject: Air stone in the kettle Keith (XDCHRISTIAN at CCVAX.FULLERTON.EDU) asks: > A few digests back someone mentioned the idea that wiggling the chiller in > the kettle would possibly help proteins clump together assisting in hot/cold > break formation. I would like to know if there is a benefit in dropping an > air stone into the kettle (after the wort gets around 80F to encourage the > proteins to drop out of solution and aerate the wort at the same time. I like Since the whole point of a rigorous boil (VS a slow boil) is that the mechanical agitation from the bubbles helps the proteins to flocculate, I would conclude that aeration in the kettle would also help protein flocculation (as well as aerate the wort). Also, if you are brewing 5 or 10 gallons in a converted sankey keg, you have the added benefit of plenty of headspace to handle all of that foam you will create with an air stone. Once you are done aerating, give your hops a few minutes to settle back down and create a filter bed for the break material. +------------------------------+----------------------+ | Keith Royster, E.I.T. | The mouth of a | | Environmental Engineer | perfectly happy man | | NC-DEHNR / Air Quality | is filled with beer. | | (704) 663-1699 | -Egyption Wisdom, | | N1EA471 at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us | 2200 B.C. | +------------------------------+----------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Aug 1995 09:29:25 -0400 From: "Allan Rubinoff" <allan_rubinoff at mathworks.com> Subject: Re- RTP Yeasts In HBD #1815, Jim Grady <grady at hpangrx.an.hp.com> writes: > I was in "Beer & Wine Hobby" in Woburn, Massachusetts yesterday to pick > up some liquid yeast. In addition to the usual Wyeast and Yeast Labs > yeasts, they had a newcomer (at least to me), RTP (tm). RTP stands for > "Ready to Pitch" and claims to be 5 billion cells, enough for a 5 gallon > batch without a starter. They claim to have the quality of liquid yeast > with the convenience of dried yeast. The yeast comes in a plastic vial > and the sediment seems less than what I get with a 1 qt starter but also > looked to be 3 to 5 times that in the Yeast Labs vial. I left my x-ray > glasses at home so I could not compare it to the Wyeast package. I've used RTP American Ale yeast once, with good results. I bought it at Barleymalt and Vine, in Newton, MA. I believe it's produced in Massachusetts, and may not be available elsewhere. My understanding is that the yeast is centrifuged, which is why the volume of yeast is less than you might expect. I used this yeast to brew a 10-gallon batch at BM&V's brew-on-premise facility. I can't comment on the lag time or other behavior of the fermentation, because I wasn't there to see it, but the beer turned out very clean and dry, as you would expect from this yeast strain (equivalent to Sierra Nevada/Wyeast 1056). Allan Rubinoff arubinoff at mathworks.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 09:45:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Tim Laatsch <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu> Subject: More Chilling Data/Trub Removal Hello Collective, Kudos to Pat Babcock for a more exhaustive chilling experiment. My data is pale in comparison, but here is another chilling data point from Laatsch NanoBrewery: Chiller Type: Immersion Chiller specs: 25 ft. x 3/8" Water temp: 13 C (55 F) Flow rate: about 3 gpm (near max sink output) Wort Volume: 5.5 gal Wort OG: 1.053 Stirring: every 2 minutes TEMP Info: Below 30 C (86 F) at T=15 min Reached 21 C (70 F) at T=25 min Reached 17 C (63 F) at T=35 min Conclusions: Stirring is very effective w/ immersion chiller To add to the comments on pitching temperature: I chilled this batch to 63 F before pitching for a very specific reason. Previously, I've only chilled to the mid-70s and have noticed detectable fusel alcohol formation, especially with yeasts that prefer cooler temperatures. I recently had a chance to tour K'zoo Brewing's new and improved 30 bbl facilities (steam jacketed kettle---ooooh!) and the tour guide said that they chill to 60 F to prevent fusel and/or ester formation. If it's good enough for the big boys, it's good enough for me. BTW, after smelling the residual contents of a packet of Wyeast 1056, I don't think there remains much question about which yeast Bell's is using---I'm just sorry I haven't used it sooner. Next topic: Trub removal. I'm sure there are a million ways to do this, but I tried the whirlpool technique and lost about a full gallon of precious wort to a slug of trub and pellet hops. I'm thinking about going to a hop-back by lining my Zapap with leaf hops and transferring the wort through it before going on to the primary fermenter. But what about brews that aren't so heavy on aroma hops? And what about sanitizing that wretched piece of equipment? (I'm anxious to get my RIMS going). Any other techniques besides using hop bags? Racking through boiled cheescloth or nylon? I once tried the strain/reboil/rechill approach and it takes FAR TOO LONG. Any help or suggestions are welcome. I'll soon be able to report on my improved pale ale recipe---thanks to all here who contributed useful suggestions! Tim *=============================================================================* | Timothy P. Laatsch | email: laatsch at kbs.msu.edu | Aspiring | | Graduate Student-Microbiology | biz phone: 616-671-2329 | All-Grain | | Michigan State University/KBS | fax: 616-671-2104 | Homebrewer | | Kalamazoo, MI (Home of Bell's) | obsession: American Pale Ale | & Scientist | *=============================================================================* Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 09:54:47 -0400 (EDT) From: "Jerry Cunningham (ESMPD)" <gcunning at Census.GOV> Subject: Alt, Kolsh, and Barleywine I'm looking for some good all-grain Alt and Kolsh recipes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, I recently spent a week of vacation trapped in a beach house with a quarter keg each of Bud and Coors Light. (How's that for a vacation horror story?) This has put me in the mood to brew a Barleywine. Requirements (not to be pushy): mostly grain (I have a 32 quart mash tun), OG 1100+, ABV 10%+, something like Bigfoot or Old Foghorn. Maybe it'll be done by next summer's beach trip... Thanks! Jerry Cunningham | seen on a T-shirt: "The drinking will Annapolis, MD | continue until morale improves." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 10:18:00 PDT From: "Bessette, Bob" <bessette at msmailgw.uicc.com> Subject: Mash Jacket... Fellow Brewers, I received a catalog from William's Brewing in San Leandro, CA just the other day and I noticed something called a Mash Jacket which is used to cover a plastic pail for mashing with a Phil's Lautertun-like setup. I always do infusion mashing and I mash and sparge in the same container (a 6 gallon white pail). I typically insert this into a cardboard box surrounded by sleeping bags, insulated material, etc to maintain my mash temperature. This Mash Jacket sounds like a decent solution to the cumbersome setup I am using now if it maintains temp like it says it does. Also I typically use a 6 gallon pail and it appears that maybe this only will fit a 5 gallon pail. I would like to know if anyone out there is using one? Also does it fit a 6 gallon pail? Also, does it have a hole for the plastic tube that runs from inside the pail under the phalse bottom to the outside of the pail to the boiling bucket? I would greatly like to hear from anyone who has used this or has heard of someone who uses it. TIA Bob Bessette bessette at uicc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 07:37:03 -0700 From: hollen at vigra.com Subject: Re: 1 1/2" false bottom >>>>> "Matt" == MATTD <MATTD at UWYO.EDU> writes: Matt> I've got a 21 gallon stainless steel pot that is 23" in diameter Matt> with a hole on the bottom near the edge with a 3" threaded pipe Matt> welded to it. I've already got a ball valve and the necessary Matt> reducer but I was wondering about a false bottom. If I insert a Matt> sink strainer (with some grinding to make it smaller) into the 1 Matt> 1/2" hole on the bottom will I get a decent extraction Matt> efficiency or should I go to a larger false bottom that just Matt> sits over the hole? Thanks for any advice you can give. I seriously suggest you pick up the last issue of Brewing Techniques where this very subject is covered in gory detail. The abstract is that a tiny area of false bottom is not as good as a large area, but the % of difference, I cannot begin to address. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x119 Email: hollen at vigra.com Senior Software Engineer Vigra, Inc. San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 10:31:13 EDT From: Steven W. Schultz <swschult at cbdcom.apgea.army.mil> Subject: Freshness Peaks in Beer In the spirit of "the only dumb question is the one you don't ask" I submit the following questions and confessions about freshness/flavor peaks in beer. For the sake of background, I'm an extract/adjunct brewer who bottles everything, and who keeps the filled bottles in the basement, where it is in the 60s, year round. I am noticing a definite pattern: my beers often taste very good after 2-3 weeks in the bottle, but after not much more than 4-5 weeks, they are in decline. I tried to make a Steam (tm) style beer recently, and both myself and another person thought it was better than Anchor Steam Beer-- just the right amount of Northern Brewer hops; you could drink it all night long! That was after about 2 1/2 weeks in the bottle. Now, after a month in the bottle, the hop profile is noticeably less, and it seems simply to be past its peak. Not a bad beer overall, but not what it had been. If this is entirely normal, could I maintain the freshness peak for a longer period simply by refrigerating the bottles? Also, might there be brewing procedures that one could follow to "stretch" the freshness peak for longer periods? I'm tired of making good beer, and then having it turn to mediocre beer in 4-5 weeks time. Steve Schultz Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 10:32:01 EST From: gravels at TRISMTP.npt.nuwc.navy.mil Subject: Thread21 / cats_meow 3 Hi all, Thank God the HBD is back! The withdrawal from the HBD is worse than not getting that first cup of coffee in the morning. Almost. ;^) Oops, did I revive the religion thread again?! Please don't hurt me mister robot. Back, back I say, Nooo..... Enough of that, First I've a question about the thread21 program for DOS users that is loaded at Stanford. I've been trying to search the files on my hard drive, but every time I run the program it goes to the first file and finishes the search. It doesn't search the first file, I know because I set up the search parameters for something in the middle of that file, and it failed to find it. I read the READ.ME file and I followed the directions in the program [they are pretty simple, well, maybe not simple enough ;^)]. If anyone can give me a hint as to what I'm doing wrong I sure would appreciate it. Second, I've seen reference to cats_meow 3 in the HBD several times and I haven't seen it in the Stanford archives, can anyone tell me where I can FTP to get a copy? Is there a cats_meow 4? I'm internet impaired, I have FTP, E-mail and I think I have telnet capabilities, but I don't know how to use it yet, although I am willing to try if someone points me in the right direction.;^) Pat Babcock talked about his chiller experiment in HBD 1816, It sounded like an interesting test. My only question is, what was your conclusion? It sounds like the counterflow chiller got the wort down to fermentation temps very quickly but didn't create very much cold break material and the immersion chiller took longer to chill, but didn't quite reach the desired temp (I solve that with ice cubes) and created a lot of cold break. Please correct me if I'm wrong, (no, really, I want to know ;^)) but, I would guess (can you say, HBWAG? HomeBrewers Wild Ass Guess) that the immersion chiller is doing the better job because of the cold break it forms. Isn't this what we are looking for? Thanks. Steve "Homebrew, it's not just a hobby, It's an adventure!" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 08:33:13 PDT From: kens at lan.nsc.com (Ken Schroeder) Subject: Graf Style Vienna Recepit Request I am formulating a new recepit for a Graf style Vienna. This is the darker version of the Vienna style best represented by Negra Modelo and Noche Bueno. I am interested in looking at several recepits so I may formulate my own approach to this challenging lager style. I am paticularly interested in grain bills (I'm an all grainer) and hop schedules. I have researched the Cat's Meow and George Fix's Vienna Style book and wish to add to this information base. Please email to kens at lan.nsc.com. If the information receives warrents, I'll post a summary. Ken Schroeder Sequoia Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 11:51:25 EST From: "Colgan, Brian P." <bcolgan at sungard.com> Subject: Re[2]: water filter suggestions? water filters: I'm in the 'gadget gathering' phase of stepping up to 10 gal 3-tier all-grain from 5 gal extract, and I need some recommendations on water filters to remove chlorine etc. Any satisfied customers out there? If so, models/prices/phone numbers would be greatly appreciated. Got any Gotts? Does anyone in the Philadelphia area know where I can pick up a couple 10 gallon Gott coolers? Whirlpool Shmirlpool- I don't get it. I hear from several of you that after cooling the wort using an immersion chiller, you start a clockwise whirlpool in it, then let it sit for 15 minutes, at which point all the trub are magically collected in the center of the pot. Well, I tried this again, but all I ever get is trub sludge uniformly on the bottom of the pot, which then gets siphoned into the primary. This wasn't such a big deal before, but I just tried a brew cap, and now the trub has clogged the yeast siphon tube. Any pointers to get this to work next time would be greatly appreciated, else I'm forced to go with either the 'copper scrubbie on the racking cane' or the 'nylon stocking in the carboy' method. This problem goes away eventually with my eventual system, due to using a hop back and a counterflow chiller, but that may be several batches away! thanks, Brian Colgan "Every one has to believe in something." bcolgan at sungard.com "I believe I'll have another homebrew." (610) 527-8896 Radnor, PA. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 09:08:12 -0700 From: Chris Eykamp <eykampc at metro.or.gov> Subject: Brewing in the Middle East Has anyone done it? The problem is this: I will be going to live in the Middle East, in a country where alcohol consumption is frowned upon. If I can brew while there, without breaking any laws, I would like to do so. I am supposing that most normal brewing supplies (hops, for example) will simply be unavailable. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to brew a drinkable brew using only "commonly" available ingredients? Thanks, Cyl Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Aug 95 11:58:47 EDT From: Jay Reeves <73362.600 at compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Finishing Hops and Wort Chilling In #1815, SoarMoose asked about how hop aroma is affected by the extended period that the wort sits near boiling temps. I asked a similar question a few months back and never got anything really definitive: I wondered how the bitterness, aroma & flavor were affected after switching to a counterflow chiller from an immersion chiller. Obviously, a portion of the wort sits at high temps longer when using a CFC as opposed to an IC. The responses I received (2 I think - don't remember who) basically said it shouldn't affect it enough to matter because the vigor of the boil is not there - if it does, experiment and adjust your hopping schedule to get what you want. One suggested using a hop-back, but the effect will be different. I have noticed a slight increase in bitterness levels (all other variables being the same) after switching to a CFC. I'm still experimenting to see when I need to add the flavor/aroma hops. I had the pleasure of talking with Dave Miller for awhile this weekend and I posed that question to him. He said the extended period of steeping the hops would certainly affect the bitterness level as well as affecting the flavor and aroma, regardless if it was boiling or not - it's still at a high enough temp to isomerize some of the AA, although not as efficiently as a boil would. His recommendations echoed what others have said: experiment - say for instance, add at 5 min. instead of 10 min. for flavor, add 5 min. after knockout for aroma - experiment and see what works for your system. I'm interested to hear how others cope with this. It would be great if someone did a controlled test to see how the bitterness levels are affected. Me? I no longer have the immersion chiller - it had a sex change. -Jay Reeves Huntsville, Alabama, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 09:26:14 -0800 From: "Robert Marshall" <robertjm at hooked.net> Subject: re: counter pressure bottling foam/RTP Yeast in SF Bay Area? Cannot help you with the Braukunst prduct since I don't use one, but I will repeat something I read elsewhere: Don't practice on beer!! For heaven and beer's sake, use tap water and make yourself some fizzy water for the kids. - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- With all the talk about RTP yeast, I was wondering if anyone around the San Francisco Bay Area has seen this for sale at a Brewer's Shop? I haven't seen this myself and would be interested in trying this since my primary/secondary fermentation times are sooooooo slow. Thanks in advance, Robert Marshall robertjm at hooked.net homepage: http://www.hooked.net/users/robertjm - ---------------------------------------------- "In Belgium, the magistrate has the dignity of a prince, but by Bacchus, it is true that the brewer is king." Emile Verhaeren (1855-1916) Flemish writer - ------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 09:50 EDT From: CSS2 at OAS.PSU.EDU (SPEAKER.CURTIS) Subject: using lactic acid I received some pure (well 88%) lactic acid the other day by mail order and suddenly realized that I'm really not sure how much or how to use it. The folks at Home Sweet Homebrew (great store BTW in downtown Philly) said "Oh, most people just use it to taste" ...whatever that means... If anyone has some experience using this stuff, I'd be interested in hearing from you. Specifically: * how much? a teaspoon? a tablespoon? an ounce? no clue.... * when to add? during boil? post boil? at bottling? any help would be appreciated. FWIW, I'm trying to make a Flanders Brown and want the sour, lactic character in it without adding yogurt (not in my beer, thank you) or doing a sour mash. TIA Curt css2 at oas.psu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 10:49:45 -0700 From: dmercer at path.org (David Mercer) Subject: Filtering out hops, break I'm a fairly new brewer, although I've already moved on the all-grain. (I don't see what the big deal is - it's not THAT much more work than extract brewing... Of course I've only tried simple infusion mashes.) But there's one basic I still haven't figured out yet: How best to filter out the hops and break when siphoning to a counterflow chiller. I have gone back through recent RCB and HBD archives (since April) looking for this topic and haven't found a whole lot except for one thread that included a suggestion to use a conical metal coffee filter (how would that work?) and another to use hop bags, which I'd rather not. You'd think this would be part of a faq or something. Papazian just says to carefully strain them out (Hah! That's easier said than done) or use a hopback. But unless you've got a fancy, expensive kettle with a spigot and a false bottom, which I don't, I don't see how either solution - straining or racking to a hopback - could be done without introducing a lot of oxidation. Anyway, I would appreciate some of this group's collective wisdom on the subject. I boil in an 8 gallon enamel/steel pot and chill using a counterflow chiller with a copper siphoning cane. One suggestion I've heard is sticking a copper scrubbing pad on the end. But it seems to me that this would get clogged pretty quickly. Here are some other possible solutions I came up with while mulling this over: Using the copper tubing with the slits cut in the bottom that I use for lautering. My siphoning cane fits nicely in the outflow section of tubing that connects to the drain in cooler I use for mashing. Down side: Even though there are a lot of slits in the tubes, it seems to me this could get stuck pretty quickly, what with all the gunk in the kettle. Using a filter basket from a big coffee percolator, inverting it and sticking the end of the siphon cane into the hole where the center post of the percolator would normally go. Down side: I'd have to keep the basket pressed firmly against the bottom of the kettle for the entire time it was siphoning, and hops that wound up under the basket at the beginning could still clog up the chiller. Using a 'spice ball' - a softball-sized spherical strainer used to hold spices for crab boils and the like. My idea is to just poke a hole in the sucker and stick the siphon cane all the way in. Down side: Could get clogged pretty quickly, I don't know. I could, of course, try all four of these ideas - scrubber, tubing, coffee basket, spice ball - and report back on which worked best, but that would require up to 4 batches of beer and I'd really not reinvent a square wheel. Anybody tried any of these, or have other suggestions? TIA Dave Mercer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 12:50:16 -0500 From: alan at mail.utexas.edu (Alan P. Van Dyke) Subject: mango beer Howdy! A while back, I asked for some advice with mangos in beer. Three intrepid & brave mead brewers (whose names I've lost; sorry guys!) responded with their experiences with mango mead, but I was on my own with the beer. Here's what happened. My big warning was that the mango flavor would be, at best, subtle. Since I was dividing up a batch of basic wheat beer, I decided to put 1 & 1/2 large mangos chopped into small chunks into a two gallon batch. I left this in the secondary for about three weeks, then bottled. At bottling, there was a mango aroma, but not much flavor. The same is true for the end result; subtle aroma, but no true mango flavor. But, as I said, this was a divided batch, so I have a control to work with. The unflavored wheat beer is not fruity tasting like the mango beer, leading me to believe that the mango flavor actually changed. If I hadn't been able to make the comparison, I would've thought that it was the yeast. Anyway, my suggestion, to any who care, is to add at least a couple of mangos per gallon, and see if the flavor hangs on that way. And if anyone out there does try this, let me know. I'm still willing to give this stuff a shot! _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ Alan P. Van Dyke No more bombs! Austin, TX, US Boycott French made goods! alan at mail.utexas.edu Stick to bread, guys. -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 13:26:15 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Bad French for "Eight". > From: "Calvin Perilloux" <dehtpkn9 at ibmmail.com> > Subject: Uncl: Finings for Wheat? > And *NO* lemon, at least not around here. Hear, hear. > From: Bunning W Maj ACC/DOTE <bunningw at ns.langley.af.mil> > Subject: Diastatic Power in Wheat and Rye Malt > > Recently I've read several articles concerning whether or not wheat malt has > enough enzymes to convert itself. The latest issue of Brew Your Own > (September) has an article with a chart that says wheat malt doesn't have > the enzymes necessary to convert it's starch to fermentable sugars and needs > the help of barley malt. However, in the Mar/Apr issue of Brewing > Techniques there is an article that discusses making a 100% wheat beer. > They claim the only problem is with sparging, since wheat malt doesn't have > any husk. This problem can be solved by adding rice hulls to the mash. I > noticed in Papazian's HBC that wheat malt has the diastatic power of 2-row > barley malt. A friend of mine and I would like to make a 100% wheat beer. I > believe it has the enzymes. Who do we believe? I'm not sure how they measure those "enzyme counts". I can assure you that if you use 100% wheat malt, you won't convert all the starches to sugar. That being said, I've made two batches of FANTASTIC (if I do say so myself, thank you) wheat beer without a hint of barley. I just didn't get all the sugar out. I even did an iodine test last time. Black. I didn't care, I had enough sugar to brew with and the taste - oh, lovely. I'm not sure why, but it tastes much more like authentic wheat beers than ones brewed with recipes more closely matching the commercial recipes. So, go ahead and do it. Just don't expect 100% conversion. > Another couple other related questions. Does rye malt have enough enzymes > to convert itself? I think it does. I think it's weaker than wheat. I'd use a little barley in there, but, well, if you don't, I wanna hear about it. Another thing that mystified the critics was the fact that Jake and I brewed both of these batches WITHOUT rice hulls or barley or anything for the sparge. We used DeWolf-Cosyns Wheat Malt both times, and spaced the rollers on the mill a bit further apart, to just crack the grains open. They may not have husks per se, but the sparge went without a hitch, as easy or easier than most of my 100% barley-malt sparges. YMMV, of course. Happy brewing. Also - use the pure Weihenstephan Weizen culture for yeast, and use noble hops in the boil, and no finishing hops. Yum yum. -R Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 13:29:19 -0500 From: cerevis at mcs.net (Christopher P. Weirup) Subject: Yeast starters, hop back and big pots Hello there. A few of quick, stupid questions. 1. I am relatively new to the use of yeast starters. So far my experiences with a starter have been good. My question is whether or not you need to add hops to the yeast starter. I don't really know what the point of hops in the starter is for. Can I just omit them? 2. This may sound stupid, but what is a hop back? I've run wort over fresh hops prior to racking into my carboy, which I was told was a hopback. Is a hop back an actual unit or object, or am I doing a hop back? 2. This question is for those of you in the Chicagoland area. I have been trying to find a large (8-10gal.) enamel-on-steel brewpot for quite some time now. I live in Chicago with no car (can you believe that?) so I'm a slave to public transit. I've checked two K-Marts, a couple of bargain stores, and some various other stores with no luck. I know that they are out there somewhere. Does anyone know where I can get one of these pots in Chicago? Private e-mail is fine. Thanks in advance Chris Weirup cerevis at mcs.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 14:36:44 -0400 From: cem at cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot) Subject: Schneider Weisse Well, Thought I'd relay an experience... I was in Munich in May and brought back some Schneider's weiss with the intent of culturing the yeast. In one of his books Jackson says that they bottle with the same yeast that they ferment with and that it is a dual strain. First let me say that Schneider's is somewhat different than the Spaten/Paulener/Julius Eckhardt weisse that I'm used to. It is almost amber in color. Possibly a substantial amount of Munich malt. Second, I was able to culture the yeast from the bottle dregs. I used it in a Schneider 'clone' (5 lb wheat, 4 lb klages, 1 lb Munich). I like the resulting beer although it was a bit off from the real thing. The yeast is definitely a weisse yeast but did not give a real strong clove flavor like I have had from the single strain Wheinstephan weisse yeast. I have brewed a few times with the first Wyeast 'weisse' strain (the 2 strain..3056?) and I would say that this is similar to the Schneider yeast. I do prefer the single strain weisse since it has a stronger clove flavor. So, these are my observations and based on no facts other than the fact that I do like weisse bier. prost chuckm ps...has anyone ever had Schlieringer's Roggen (Rye) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 14:38:57 -0500 From: David.Muzidal at dssc.slg.eds.com (David M. Muzidal) Subject: Celis Brewery tour info A brewpub I frequent in Dallas, TX (Yegua Creek) sponsered yet another pub crawl to Austin, TX this past weekend. I was able to go this time, and it was quite fun (burp)! They had their 1994 GABF gold medal winning Sara's Brown Ale along with their Tucker's Golden Wheat and O'Briens Texas Stout on the bus. Once in Austin, we hit the brewpubs (Waterlou, Bitter End, Copper Tank), the Gingerman (over 100 beers) and the Celis Brewery. At the Gingerman, I sampled an Austin microbrew (Hill Country Brewing?) called Balcones Red Granite that was very good. The highlight of the trip was the Celis Brewery tour and tasting. After tasing the beers fresh, I will be forever dispointed in the quality of the bottled versions I usually get. The Pale Bock was AMAZING! I also thought that the Celis White was VERY good, and this is a beer that I am not a fan of (or at least I thought). We were not allowed to sample the Grand Cru (something to do with the 9% alcohol content). I could take or leave the Celis Golden and Rasberry (compared to the other two). I thought I would pass along some of the Celis info I can remember for the brewing community: Ingredients: Briess (sp?) pale malt roasted caramel malt corriander dried orange peel sazz hops (pellets) cascade hops (pellets) williamete hops (pellets) That's it! I do not remember seeing any wheat malt, but I thought Celis White was a wheat beer. I was not able to find out anything about their yeasts except that they maintain their own yeast cultures. I was supprised to learn that they use hop pellets exclusively. I was also surprised to learn that Pale Bock is actually a pale ale. They said they use the local Austin water supply (which is high in limestone and resembles Belgian water) and just filter out the chlorine. Hope you find this usefull, David Muzidal David.Muzidal at dssc.slg.eds.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 15:52:44 -0400 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: All-Wheat Beer Response In HBD 1816 Nicholas A. Franke writes: > In HBD #1815 (August 26), Bill Bunning questioned whether >wheat malt had the diastatic power to permit a wheat beer to be >made from a 100% wheat grist. In my opinion, a 100% wheat grist >can be used. > In June I made a hefeweizen with the following grain >bill: > 7.25# German Wheat Malt > 2.5 # Canadian Wheat Malt > .75# German Caramel Malt (10L) > 1 # Wheat Flakes > 4 qts. Rice Hulls > > I used a single decoction mash. The sparge yielded >7.25 gals. of wort at S.G. 1.042. > I believe that had barley malt been added to the grain >bill of this beer that the extract yield would have been higher. >In my opinion, extract yield suffers as the percentage of wheat >in the grist increases. I have no specific data to back up these >assumptions, but base them only on general observation. Well the extraction from wheat should be higher than from barley. Like 39 vs 35 pt/gal/lb. In the first sentence you indicate that all-wheat is OK. Then you add that extraction yield suffers (I think yours is around 70%) perhaps indicating insufficient diastatic power. To get maximum extraction from a low diastatic power malt, I'd make some attempt to mash for success. That is try to use the enzymes available carefully. This probably means mashing on the low end of the temperature range in order not to wipe out enzymes prematurely, and I'd probably go for a really long mash period and adjust pH to the optimal range. Nicholas - could you post your mashing schedule for a point of comparison ? > I am now a firm believer in using 100% wheat in the >hefeweizen grist, though. Out of several weizens I have made >with the same yeast and general procedure, this one is by far the >best and most closely resembles a German hefeweizen. > > NAF. > nafrank at ibm.net As always - success is measured from the bottle or keg, and NOT by extraction efficiency. Stevea Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 16:25:04 -0400 From: joep at informix.com (HomeBrewer) Subject: Thermometer/burner >>>>> Regarding Thermometer/burner; Robert Brown <rbrown00 at uoguelph.ca> adds: Robert> Of course if anyone Knows of a $10 burner I'll be the first in Robert> line. The commercial ones are just more than my wallet can Robert> take at this point (especially considering the SO points). Gee, and I thought I was the only one trying to justify my hobby to my SO. :) I did buy the bigger burner and it has been a great help. The kitchen still has to be cleaned, but the brewing odor is now outside, so the SO is happier about that. <g> joe. +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Joe Pearl, Sr. Sales Engineer, Informix Software, Inc. | | 8675 Hidden River Parkway, Tampa, FL, 33637 813-615-0616 | | PGP'd email preferred | +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | If you take something apart and put it back together again enough times, | | you will eventually have two of them. COROLLARY TO MURPHY'S LAW | +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by BSUVC.bsu.edu From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill) Subject: Burners and Conversion/Keeping cool No, I'm not wanting to bring up the religion thread again. ;-) Thanks for all the help and advice for obtaining propane and natural gas burners, and for modfying burners to work with each type. Robert Brown <rbrown00 at uoguelph.ca> had some great ASCII art to go with his, and was explicit enough to get thru my sometimes thick skull the specifics of the burner modification. (Modify the end of the gas line, not necessarily the burner tip where the flame comes out. And of course, where possible, seek professional help.) I think David Draper is on to something. If you really want a helluva response to your HBD question, try to get it in a really small digest... - ---------------- "Alex R.N. Wetmore" <alexw+ at andrew.cmu.edu> asks: >it has no air conditioning or a cellar that we can use). Is there a >good way to keep the temperature of the fermenting beer closer to >the lower 70's that the yeast will enjoy? It's definitely not an ideal situation, but I had very good success this summer brewing two batches of Weizen (not nearly enough!) by wrapping my plastic primary in foam insulation and putting it in the fridge for a few hours each day. The foam slowed the temp changes, and this kept the temp of the ferment in the _range_ of 60-72 F. I have a "fermometer" type (different brand actually) thermometer that sticks on the outside of the primary. This was essential, otherwise I would not have any idea of the temp. So, the temp was not _constant_, but the beer turned out great just by keeping it in range. Here in Indiana, the humidity is so high that I've not been inclined to try evaporative cooling, where you put the fermenter about half deep in water and drape a t-shirt or somthing over it to wick water up and off of the fermenter for about a 10 degree reduction in temperature. A water bath would work great if you have a large tub or plastic trash can. If the volume of water is great, it will take a long time to heat up so you could change some water each day or add some ice to keep it pretty cool. Again, it is much better practice to keep the temp constant, (the yeast doesn't like temp change) but if you keep it in range, and don't change the temperature very quickly, I think you will be OK. - --Brian K. Pickerill <00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu> Muncie, IN Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1817, 08/29/95