HOMEBREW Digest #1819 Thu 31 August 1995

Digest #1818 Digest #1820


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  No Head - Filetered Water the Cause? (Michael A. Genito)
  Re: Alt, Kolsh, and Barleywine (Spencer W Thomas)
  Re: RTP yeasts (Ken Jucks, ph # 617-496-7580)
  Sodom Who's Sane? (Russell Mast)
  Aging beers. (Russell Mast)
  re:RTP (Jim Liddil)
  RE:airstone in kettle (Jim Busch)
  replacement for push-button spigot (He's gone and nothin's gonna bring him back.  29-Aug-1995 1042 -0400)
  Wild Hops ID ("Jim Webb")
  Bathtubs, Pool Water, and Yeast Washing. (DocsBrew)
  Re: Filtering out hops, break (Jeff Benjamin)
  Re: Replacement spigot for Lauter Tun ("Roger Deschner  ")
  Chas, you tease! (kpnadai)
  Yeast quality (Harralson, Kirk)
  New Mexico/Colorado Travels (Wseliger)
  Celis correction (Alan P. Van Dyke)
  Chiller Bath Pumps Aren't $-ey ("Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556")
  Malic Acid ("Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556")
  Separating wort from hops (Steve Zabarnick)
  MaltMill Research (Jeffrey B. Bonner)
  In-line aeration filters (Harralson, Kirk)
  Chilling conclusions ("Pat Babcock")
  New system/AOL/bottle rack (MrMike656)
  Aeration and break formation ("Allen L. Ford")
  Nat. gas burner ==> propane conversion ("Christopher V. Sack")
  RE: Chuck Mryglot's Spigot Question (TRoat)
  Alt Recipe, et al (Gary McCarthy)

****************************************************************** * POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** ################################################################# # # YET ANOTHER NEW FEDERAL REGULATION: if you are UNSUBSCRIBING from the # digest, please make sure you send your request to the same service # provider that you sent your subscription request!!! I am now receiving # many unsubscribe requests that do not match any address on my mailing # list, and effective immediately I will be silently deleting such # requests. # ################################################################# NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS hpfcmgw! Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 09:36:47 -0400 From: genitom at nyslgti.gen.ny.us (Michael A. Genito) Subject: No Head - Filetered Water the Cause? I've been brewing for about five years, first with kits, then extracts, then extract/grain, and now for the first time all grain. My most recent two batches, one a malt extract "light beer" (4 lb Ironmaster American Light with 1 lb dry malt) and the other my first all grain 2.5 gal batch (3.5 lbs British 2 row lager) came out tasty but surprisingly, for the first time in my brew career, with very poor head retention. Unlike my other brews, which I must carefully pour down the side of a glass to avoid a massive head, these must be poured fast to create a head. Again, they taste fine, and the all grain appears to have a bit of a kick. I know its not the glasses I'm using, caused I tested my other brews in the same glasses with the usual great head. But I did notice one thing different about these two latest batches - rather than using the usual tap water or water from a local artesian well, I used the tap water filtered thru a Brita water filter. I'm not sure if this contributed to the lack of head. Anyone else with similar experiences? BTW, I've brewed even lighter beers than the Ironmaster (a 3.75 lb can of Coopers Australian Draught with 2 cups dry malt) and recd a great beer with good head. Rather than experiment too much, I'm going to try my next batch with tap or well water. It could be coincidence that the all grain and Ironmaster were too light. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 09:58:39 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: Alt, Kolsh, and Barleywine Here's a BW I made recently. It hasn't been entered in competition because I think it's still too young, but friends who tasted it think it's pretty good. This is my third or fourth try at this style with this basic method. I haven't decided yet whether I like this one better than the previous effort, but it's close, anyway. 10lbs DWC(DeWolf-Cosyns Belgian) Pilsener malt 8 lbs DWC Pale malt 1.5lbs DWC CaraVienne malt 0.1lbs Roasted Barley 0.5lbs DWC (Belgian) Munich malt Mash schedule: Mash-in with 10qts at 42C for a strike temp of 39C 20 minute beta-glucan rest Add 10 qts at 100C (boiling) to raise to 62C (aiming for 60C), 30 min. beta-amylase rest Add 6 quarts at 100C to raise to 67C (aiming for 70C) 1:15 alpha-amylase rest Take first runnings (drain all liquid from mash tun without adding any further sparge water(*)) to get about 4-4.5 gallons at 1.080. Boiling down to 3 gallons will give an OG of 1.105 - 1.120. The hop schedule was 2 oz Northern Brewer pellets (9%) 60 min 1 oz BC Kent Goldings plugs (5%) 30 min 1/2oz BC Kent Goldings plug (5%) 15 min 1/2oz BC Kent Goldings plug (5%) 5 min 1/2oz Fuggles plug (4.3%) 5 min Whirlpool, let settle for 15 minutes and siphon through counterflow chiller with aerating cane on end. Pitch yeast slurry from a previous batch of Mild (probably YeastLab London Ale (it's a long story)). (By the way, this is my favorite way to pitch *enough* yeast for a barleywine.) Fermentation was active in 2 hours. Primary was about 2 months at 65-70F, and dropped from 1.105 to 1.038. Rack into secondary and add 1 oz of EKG plugs for dry hopping. Bottle about 1 month later. Added new yeast, but no priming sugar. Final result has medium-low carbonation and a complex malt-hops nose. The malty sweetness is balanced by the agressive hopping level, and high hop flavor. You could probably pump up the gravity of this another 8-10 points (and thus the alcohol by another 1% or so) by adding a pound of sugar, with no deleterious flavor effects. (*) You can (I did) add more hot water to the remaining mash, and sparge out about 7 gallons more wort to make a Bitter at about 1.045. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 09:59:52 -0400 From: jucks at cfaft4.harvard.edu (Ken Jucks, ph # 617-496-7580) Subject: Re: RTP yeasts RTP yeasts are indeed produced in Massachussetts. The distribution of these yeasts might expand over the next year. The man behind the yeasts (Seth, the yeast God of the Boston Wort Processors; no religious thread intended) is a talented bio-chemist who has been propogating yeasts for the brew club for years, and is now making a small business where he is supplying yeast for homebrewers and brewpubs. I have been using his yeasts (not in RTP proportions, I make starters) for some time now with excellent results. Disclaimer: I too am a member of the BWPs; some bias might apply. Ken Jucks Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 09:30:03 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Sodom Who's Sane? > From: Chris Eykamp <eykampc at metro.or.gov> > Subject: Brewing in the Middle East St. Patrick's in Austin, Texas brags that they ship homebrew supplies to some brewers in Saudi Arabia, so you could always try going the mailorder route. btw, did you know that the word "alcohol" comes from an Arabic word? -R Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 09:35:41 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Aging beers. > Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 10:31:13 EDT > From: Steven W. Schultz <swschult at cbdcom.apgea.army.mil> > Subject: Freshness Peaks in Beer > I am noticing a definite pattern: my beers often taste very good > after 2-3 weeks in the bottle, but after not much more than 4-5 weeks, > they are in decline. All of my beers follow this pattern, also, but not with the same timing. In fact, the vast majority of my beers, IMO, peak at about 6 weeks, and aren't "losing it" until 8 or 10. I do notice the hops starting to peter out, but I'm not much of a hophead, so that may be some of the difference. Also, I notice a wide variation in aging times with style. Generally, higher gravity beers need longer aging, and are in peak for longer. My wheat beers stay at peak for a very long time, even the low G ones. I've had a couple batches that I had thought peaked at about 3-4 weeks, so I drank most of them, and the few that I had set aside turned out much better at 8 weeks. So I drank them all quickly, not wanting to know if they would get even better. Some of this might be an extract/all-grain difference, too. I brew all-grain, usually use hop plugs or whole hops, liquid yeast with big starters. Who knows what other variables there are? -R Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 7:41:00 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Liddil <JLIDDIL at AZCC.Arizona.EDU> Subject: re:RTP % In HBD #1815, Jim Grady <grady at hpangrx.an.hp.com> writes: % % > I was in "Beer & Wine Hobby" in Woburn, Massachusetts yesterday to pick % > up some liquid yeast. In addition to the usual Wyeast and Yeast Labs % > yeasts, they had a newcomer (at least to me), RTP (tm). RTP stands for % > "Ready to Pitch" and claims to be 5 billion cells, enough for a 5 gallon % > batch without a starter. They claim to have the quality of liquid yeast % > with the convenience of dried yeast. The yeast comes in a plastic vial % > and the sediment seems less than what I get with a 1 qt starter but also % > looked to be 3 to 5 times that in the Yeast Labs vial. I left my x-ray % > glasses at home so I could not compare it to the Wyeast package. So has anyone bought some of this stuff and done a viability test to see how much of it is viable? Ready to Pitch where? :-) Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 10:55:06 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: RE:airstone in kettle >I would like to know if there is a benefit in dropping an > air stone into the kettle (after the wort gets around 80F to encourage the > proteins to drop out of solution and aerate the wort at the same time. I like <Since the whole point of a rigorous boil (VS a slow boil) is that the <mechanical agitation from the bubbles helps the proteins to flocculate, I <would conclude that aeration in the kettle would also help protein <flocculation (as well as aerate the wort). Actually, pumping air through wort helps the trub to rise to the surface in the same mechanical fashion that a floatation tank works. The trub latches on to the air bubbles and rises to the top of the tank. Usually, this is done inline as the cold wort is sent into the floatation tank, then the bubbles rise to the top of the tank, pulling trub with them. After a rest period of between 4 and 6 hours, the wort is pumped out from under the trub and off to the fermenter. This is very typical in German lager breweries. Id also point out that the "whole point of a vigorous boil" is a lot more than merely trub formation. There are a lot of kettle reactions that occur during boiling and the cover should never be on the pot for the last 30 minutes of the boil (ideally one has a strong enough burner to leave the lid off for the full 90 minute boil period). <Next topic: Trub removal. I'm sure there are a million ways to do this, but <I tried the whirlpool technique and lost about a full gallon of precious wort <to a slug of trub and pellet hops. The way that I like to do it is to only use whole hops, it is easier for me to keep trub in the kettle when I brew abusively hopped ales. If you use pellets in small amounts, a whirlpool works great. I use my perf sheet lauter screen as a hop screen in the kettle. Put it in before you add hops. Then, before transfer through the counterflow chiller I use inline SS brillos in my 1.5" ferrule. I would assume that one can cut up some kind of screen to line smaller ferrules or cut up some brillos as a trap. The copper scrubby over the copper siphon tube works well too. Good brewing! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 10:46:02 EDT From: He's gone and nothin's gonna bring him back. 29-Aug-1995 1042 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.ENET.dec.com> Subject: replacement for push-button spigot >Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 08:01:07 -0400 >From: cem at cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot) >Subject: replacement spigot for round, 10 gallon coolers What i did was bring my GOTT to a hardware store after i removed the push button spigot and i just started trying different parts until i had something i thought would work. this is by far, imo, the easiest way to deal. just keep trying parts until you have something that works. jc ferguson Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 15:42:19 -0400 From: "Jim Webb" <"webb_j%Organization=Mineral Sector Analysis Branch%Telephone=705-670-5889" at a1.torv05.umc> Subject: Wild Hops ID [This message is converted from WPS-PLUS to ASCII] On an old estate across the road from me, whose grounds have been let go wild, there is a HUGE area covered with wild hops (maybe up to 1/4 acre in area). It's scarey to see how they cover over trees, bushes etc. -- kinda makes we wonder what MY hops in the backyard will look like in future years. My hops are now nearly ripe - the first of the them should be ready by early next week - and I thought it would be interesting to harvest some of the wild ones (the price is right for sure). The ones I've crushed have a very pleasant aroma, and definitely very different from my Cascades. Of course I have NO idea what variety they are, and am making an appeal to the collective for some thoughts. A few things that may help narrow the field: - I am in Sudbury, which is not exactly Oregon climate-wise; - The estate was vacated in 1952, so if they must have been established - possibly as decorative arbor covering - well before that date, so all recent hybrids can be eliminated from the list. Would I be off-base in assuming they are one of the 'noble' hops? Which varieties are most likely? Since there is probably both male & female plants and have probably been propagating, would they no longer be a definable variety? Suggestions on how to determine (very roughly) their bittering capabilities? I have also noticed that areas of the plants have been chewed so that all that's left of the leaves are the ribs. Any ideas what the critters are (we have lots of earwigs..)? Should I be concerned by my own hops, which are planted about 200 yards from the extemity of this wild patch? Many thanx in advance. Jim Webb Sudbury, Ontario ** Owner and operator of the Ramsey Road Picobrewery ** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 17:41:57 -0400 From: DocsBrew at aol.com Subject: Bathtubs, Pool Water, and Yeast Washing. Firstly, thanks to all who responded to my post re: bathtub brewing - the consensus was that old-time brewers used the bathtub as an easy-to-clean place to transfer and ferment, and not much more. I also got a lot of good stuff about using my pool water as a heat-exchanger. Good ideas, and most of 'em sent private e-mail as well as a copy to the hbd. I just spent many minutes downloading and printing the yeast.faq from ftp.stanford. It discussed washing yeast in (cold) water, but wasn't there some discussion about using an acid? And wasn't there some speculation about using acetic acid (vinegar)? What did "we" ever decide?? Is water enough?? Is my yeast ruined?? I also want to second the cheers for Rob Gardner, our digest Janitor. He does a great job, and *all* should appreciate him very much - especially in these stressful times. Doc. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 10:08:50 MDT From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Re: Filtering out hops, break dmercer at path.org (David Mercer) asks about several methods of filtering out the hops etc. after the boil: 1. Copper scrub pad 2. Copper tube with slits 3. Coffee filter 4. "Spice ball" I use a combination of 1 & 2 and it works great. I have a short section of 1/2" hard copper pipe with slits cut in it (about 1 per cm) that attaches to my siphon apparatus; I then use a couple of rubber bands to attach a copper Chore Boy(tm) scrubber over the slits. It does an excellent job of filtering out any sort of hops (leaf, pellets, plugs) and other scuz. - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Think! It ain't illegal yet." -- George Clinton Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 11:04:07 CDT From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.CC.UIC.EDU> Subject: Re: Replacement spigot for Lauter Tun Go to your local hardware store and get a "sillcock", which is an ordinary garden faucet, made of brass. You want the kind without the flanges*, and which has a 1/2" (inside diameter, "standard trade size") male connector on its rear end. Then you need a brass 1/2" size locknut, also in the plumbing department. Find an o-ring that fits, to prevent leaks; you may be able to reuse the o-ring or other washers from the push-button valve. This commonplace item should not be expensive: <$5.00; it's made of brass, and it is approved for drinking water and/or hot water. (*Can't picture the flanges? They are for bolting the faucet to the wall from which it protrudes. They're in the way for this purpose, so you want the kind without. Once you're in the hardware store, you should see both kinds, and you'll know what I mean.) If you're not a hardware store junkie like some of us, bring your cooler in and let the guy there have a crack at it. Then you can connect hoses and whatever to the threaded hose connector, and turn it on and off with the faucet. By the way, I found a "new use" for my 5-gal Igloo Lauter Tun this summer during the heat wave. I cleaned it out and filled it with ice water, to drink. Imagine that! ;) Roger Deschner University of Illinois at Chicago rogerd at uic.edu Aliases: u52983 at uicvm.uic.edu U52983 at UICVM.BITNET R.Deschner at uic.edu +---------------------------------------------------------------------+ | "Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants to see us happy." | | --Benjamin Franklin | +---------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 22:44:20 PDT From: kpnadai at adsnet.com Subject: Chas, you tease! I don't think I am the only one who would like your recipe. Congrats on making such an enjoyable brew! Brew Bayou, Kevin Nadai Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 12:56:51 EST From: kwh at roadnet.ups.com (Harralson, Kirk) Subject: Yeast quality A few people have posted recently about shelf life of propagated yeast. I follow the procedure for parallel yeast propagation as outlined in the yeast faq, and have had fairly good results to date. I have "revived" yeast that was bottled and in my fridge for at least 10 months. The last time I prepared the parallel cultures, I found myself questioning some of my procedures: First, when I separate the suspended yeast into bottles, there is almost inevitable oxidation. I pour the liquid into the bottles, and there is considerable foaming (I try to minimize contact with siphons, etc. for sanitation purposes). Second, I would imagine letting this yeast sit literally for months causes autolysis. Now, do these conditions which we normally try to avoid like the plague affect, ruin or mutate the yeast, or do they just cause off flavors, etc. in the resulting beer? If the beer only is affected, I don't care because I discard all but just enough to suspend the yeast to pour it. However, if the yeast themselves are affected, and carry over these characteristics into the next batch, I care a lot. Comments? Kirk Harralson Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 13:01:28 -0400 From: Wseliger at aol.com Subject: New Mexico/Colorado Travels My parents are travelling through Albequerque (sp?), Taos, Santa Fe, Colorado Springs, Breckenridge and points between and betwixt. Any recommendations for brewpubs/breweries/beery places would be greatly appreciated. Private email is fine and Thanks in Advance, Bill Seliger Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 12:43:35 -0700 From: alan at mail.utexas.edu (Alan P. Van Dyke) Subject: Celis correction Howdy! In HBD 1817, David Muzidal describes his very pleasant trip to Austin (yep, I live here for a reason, y'know). In it, he says: "I thought I would pass along some of the Celis info I can remember for the brewing community: Ingredients: Briess (sp?) pale malt roasted caramel malt corriander dried orange peel sazz hops (pellets) cascade hops (pellets) williamete hops (pellets) That's it! I do not remember seeing any wheat malt, but I thought Celis White was a wheat beer." You must have been looking forward to the free tasting too much, David. Celis uses unmalted winter wheat grown near Luckenbach, TX. They are very proud of this fact. It's also used in the Celis Raspberry. Also, David said: "I was not able to find out anything about their yeasts except that they maintain their own yeast cultures." Few people seem to know that Pierre Celis is also known in the yeast circles to be a master yeast rancher. He keeps his secrets well, unfortunately for us homebrewers. _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ Alan P. Van Dyke No more bombs! Austin, TX, US Boycott French made goods! alan at mail.utexas.edu Stick to bread, guys. -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 13:50:37 -0500 (EST) From: "Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556" <BRADLEY_DAVID_A at Lilly.com> Subject: Chiller Bath Pumps Aren't $-ey Here's another gadget for the stash. My tap water was +34 degrees in February and is 77 now. As a result, cooling is l-o-n-g, even with an ice bath around the kettle. Others use recirculating cold water baths to avoid this problem. Resigned that this would be too much expense/trouble, I avoided it. Until now. This is quite feasible to do! I bought the key part, a submersible pump for $30! Its a fountain pump, and there's a variety of prices/hp units available. I got one w/enough (?) head rise that I felt it would handle my immersion chiller back pressure fine without blasting it to pieces. It sits in a tub w/ ice water, recirculating cold water via the immersion chiller through my wort. No rocket science, just the take-away point that it can be fairly cheap to go this route. The only question is how much power these tiny pumps need to give a good flow rate through the tubing...engineering, your thoughts on this? These are wimpy pumps in general, but there are some which have decent power...and there's always the utility pump, <$50 often. Dave in Indy (Who's wife questions the fact that his brewing "crap" is displacing the food from our pantry. Can you believe it?!?) From: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036) To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com") cc: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 13:53:49 -0500 (EST) From: "Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556" <BRADLEY_DAVID_A at Lilly.com> Subject: Malic Acid Anyone use _malic acid_ to lower their sparge water pH? Comments? Works fine, but I need side-by-side tests for any added sourness it may impart. I'd prefer this over gypsum, but with a source for food-grade HCl I'd take that instead. Thanks for your observations! Dave in Indy From: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036) To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com") cc: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 15:11:21 -0500 From: steve at snake.appl.wpafb.af.mil (Steve Zabarnick) Subject: Separating wort from hops In my experience, the most frustrating part of brewing is separating the cooled bitter wort from the hops. I use an immersion chiller with and enamel-on-steel kettle and have tried many techniques but usually have wort transfer problems and end up losing a significant quantity of bitter wort. When using pellet hops, siphoning from above the hop trub sediment works, but one can lose up to one gallon of a five/six gallon batch. I've even tried the Kinney Baugham (sp?) trick of a copper choreboy in a hop bag tied around the racking cane; this sometimes works, but often clogs. When using whole leaf hops, the easymasher screen device sometimes works, but also results in losing significant quantities of wort. I've found that seeded hops (such as EK Goldings) tend to clog the screen and can also clog siphon hoses. Of heard people talk of the whirlpool technique, where the hot wort is whirlpooled which results in the formation of a mound of hops/trub in the center of the kettle, the wort is drawn off at the sides of the kettle. Apparently, this technique is only usable for those with CF chillers. I've also heard of people who have a perforated "false bottom" in their kettle which holds back the trub and the break. Apparently one needs a cut-off keg for these devices. I'm frustrated! Do you have any tips for siphoning/draining the cooled bitter wort from the spent hops and trub? I'm tired of restarting the siphon multiple times and losing precious wort. Steve Zabarnick steve at snake.appl.wpafb.af.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 10:11:56 PDT From: Jeffrey B. Bonner <t3345 at fel1.nfuel.com> Subject: MaltMill Research Ok digesters, I think I have the story on MaltMill speeds. Thanks to all who wrote me back with data, there own experiences, catalogs for motors, etc.! After a bunch of people wrote back and a phone call to Jack, it seems that the optimum (sp?) speed is: 400 RPM. The following is some numbers on shaft speed vs throughput (lbs/min): RPM Throughput 60 2.0 100 3.3 120 4.0 150 5.0 200 6.7 Futher, one may extrapolate linerally to 400 RPM. After 400, the throughput begins to decrease with shaftspeed (sorry, I don't have numbers after 400 RPM). Jack, recommends that you use at least a .5 hp electric motor with the typical shaft speed of 1700 RPM and reduce to 400 RPM via two pulleys. I personally perfer to use a gear motor. One digester pointed me to Surplus Center (sorry I don't have the 1-800 number now, but will post if there is interest) where I purchased a gear motor running at 325 RPM for $29.95. This way, I didn't have to mess with pulleys, idlers, etc. I am still collecting info on high temperature pumps. Will post the results soon! IF anyone has any other questions please feel free to write me or post! Thanks again to everyone who wrote to me and Jack for calling me back! - -- Jeffrey B. Bonner - BWR Nuclear Engineering SIEMENS POWER CORPORATION-NUCLEAR DIVISION Engineering and Manufacturing Facility 2101 Horn Rapids Road, PO Box 130 Richland, WA 99352-0130 Office: (509)375-8741 Fax: (509)375-8006/8402 email: jbb at fred.nfuel.com (work) nukebrewer at aol.com (home) Current Project: KS1 Spent Fuel Pool Criticality Analysis It often shows a fine command of language to say nothing. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 15:23:07 EST From: kwh at roadnet.ups.com (Harralson, Kirk) Subject: In-line aeration filters I made the decision to buy an aeration system, and never shake another carboy. I set out to buy an aquarium pump, tubing, an inline filter and disposable air stones at my local Walmart. I know there are other alternative setups, but I'm sold (in theory) on this one. I found everything but the inline filter. I went to several other stores with the same result. I looked through old issues of Zymurgy and Brewing Techniques for ads, and found a how-to article on making a "bubbler-type" inline filter (air is passed through a jar containing sanitizing solution), but I have read warnings about those in this digest before. Primarily, the thought is that the outer surface area of the bubble is all that is sanitized, while small nasties could live inside the bubble. This all makes sense, which is why I wanted a filter that used sterile cotton, or some sort of paper filter element. Can anyone suggest a store/supplier? If anyone has made their own inline filter, and has suggestions, please pass them on. I will be more than happy to compile suggestions and post results if anyone else is interested. TIA, Kirk Harralson Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 15:57:28 EDT From: uscgc2r3 at ibmmail.com Subject: Bulk Grain 1) I'm looking to buy some malted grain and it occurs to me that I could significantly reduce the cost by buying a pallet or so (I'm sure that this is not news to anyone). Are there any HBDrs doing this near Greensboro, North Carolina that I could go in with? Or that would be interested in getting a purchase together? 2) Also, assuming we do get together, can anyone recommend a good malthouse that you've been happy doing business with? TIA PS - (unrelated topic) I wouldn't mention this obvious (to me) fix for the Hunter thermostat units, but I've seen so many failure reports.......Why not return them to the store? It's obviously not fit for the purpose for which it was intended, the implied warrantee that goes with every consumer good sold in this country. If mail order, or some other problem, then return them to Hunter. Wallie Meisner 1800 334 9481 x-2410 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 16:10:18 +0500 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Chilling conclusions > In HBD #1817, Steve Gravels asks for chilling conlusions... Well, I had intended to let the reader draw his/her own conclusions from the data presented. Personally, my time is more important than obvious cold break (They both form it. The particulate mass is larger with the immersion, but both fermenters now have identical sediment layers...). To my requirements, the CF chiller is superior. If your setup allows you to easily separate the wort from the trub, and seeing cold break turns you on: then the immersion chiller is for you. As always, YMMV... Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock | "Drink all you want - I'll brew more!" President, Brew-Master | and Chief Taste-Tester | "Let a good beer be the exclamation point Drinkur Purdee pico Brewery | at the end of your day as every sentence pbabcock at oeonline.com | requires proper punctuation." -PGB SYSOP on The HomeBrew University - Motor City Campus BBS (313)397-9758 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 16:51:20 -0400 From: MrMike656 at aol.com Subject: New system/AOL/bottle rack Fellow Brewers - Nice to know that the lapse in Digests was the result of a computer system change and not the work of the pesty robot. The equipment changeover seems to have affected the delivery to AOL. Previously, HBD was delivered in two pieces, which could be printed right out of AOL. With the new system, HBD still comes in two pieces. But both parts are the first half of the Digest. Each piece also comes with an attached text file, which is the entire Digest. This must then be exported to a word processor to read or print. So, we get the each Digest two and a half times. What to do? No fair saying "Get a real online service". But to beery things. The wife was complaining about my using the dishrack as a bottle dryer. I would rinse my empties after consuming and allow them to drip dry on the dishrack. Took up too much space. I wound taking the lid of a 5 gallon plastic bucket (I have a bunch of pickle buckets with lids - easily findable behind your favorite diner) and cutting holes in it, allowing me stick the bottle neck through. Bottle drains into bucket, no mess, and sufficent enough for normal consumption (my lid fits 9 bottles - could probably fit 10). Mike Maimone "The only reason for time is that it keeps everything from happening at once." Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 15:14:23 -0500 (CDT) From: "Allen L. Ford" <allen at darwin.sfbr.org> Subject: Aeration and break formation A concerned brewer recently asked this forum for comments regarding the effects of aerating chilled wort on cold break formation. I, too, had an interest in this subject since I typically begin aeration late in the cooling cycle, primarily as a time-saving measure. While he doesn't address the effects on cold break directly, De Clerck, in A Textbook of Brewing, does discuss the effect on hot break and, by inference, a possible effect on cold break. Keep in mind that his comments were made prior to 1948 and do not necessarily reflect current brewing practices. In Vol. 1, page 333, he states, "Wort is oxidized by oxygen at high temperatures, which ... impairs the quality of the final beer. On the other hand, oxidation of the wort assists in good coagulation of proteinaceous matter. As a general rule, therefore, hot wort is left in contact with air for a time, and below 40C (104F) undergoes scarcely any further oxidation and merely absorbs oxygen." Then on page 339, "It was shown by Pasteur that oxidation, which only occurs at high temperatures, increases the colour of the wort, and at the same time gives it a less bitter flavour and assists in the coagulation of the hot break." On page 338, he states, "The particles composing the cold break are in too fine a state of division to settle rapidly. They can, however, be completely eliminated by first chilling the wort in the flat cooler and then agitating to bring the coarser particles into suspension. When the coarse particles settle they carry down with them the finely divided cold break by adsorption." The question is, what the hell does all this mean for us as homebrewers? The short answer is, probably not much. If I want to oxidize my hot wort enough to facilitate a complete hot break, without a coolship such as alluded to by De Clerck, how do I know how much oxygen is appropriate and how much is too much such that I ruin my beer. I do not intend to attempt to make such a determination. However, it seems logical that, once the hot and cold breaks are formed, the agitation caused by vigorous aeration would have the desirable effect of bringing the large hot break particles into contact with the smaller cold break ones. If the process works as described by De Clerck, such contact should result in a more efficient removal of both types of break particles assuming that the cooled wort is allowed to rest prior to run-off and all the trub is left behind. Is such aerated agitation likely to improve the quality of the finished beer? From the standpoint of increased cold break removal, probably not since a bit of cold break may well be beneficial to the ferment in certain situations (a topic for another day). From the standpoint of increased aeration however, almost certainly. Comments? =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Allen L. Ford <allen at darwin.sfbr.org> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-= Southwest Foundation for Biomedical Research San Antonio, Texas =-=-= Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 16:57:50 -0400 (EDT) From: "Christopher V. Sack" <cvsack at mailbox.syr.edu> Subject: Nat. gas burner ==> propane conversion I have read many posts about converting a natural gas burner scavanged from a discarded hot water heater (hwh) to run on propane. Where is what I have done. I mounted my recycled hwh burner into the center of a homemade metal frame that was sized to accept my 8 gal brew pot. I quickly learned that the proper orifice diameter was important in minimizing soot build up. After several attempts to resize the orifice to a smaller size, it occured to me that there were jets which were already intended to be used with propane. I am talking about the jets that are mounted in propane barbecues. (These typically have an on/off/adjust knob attached to them and can be easily removed from discarded bbq's using just a screwdriver.) I removed the nat. gas jet/feed tube from the hwh burner and pushed the recycled barbecue burner jet (with the on/off/adjust controller still atached, but plastic knob removed) into the mounting hole of the hwh burner assembly. I attached the propane feed line to the "gas in" connector of the controller/jet assembly and connected the other end of the tube to a discarded pressure regulator. I run the burner at about 15 - 20 psi with the bbq jet set and left on "max". I get a nice blue flame that is about 6" tall all around the burner ring. I was able to bring 6 gal of water to a boil in under 20 min., but then I was not trying to break any records. The burner produces no soot and starts to sound like a jet engine at higher pressures. The burner ring starts to glow cherry red indicating that there is plenty of heat being produced, probably more that the burner ring was designed for. As a result, I suspect that the burner ring may have a relatively short life time, but then again, it is already on a second life and there are always replacements available on the side of the road. One final note. Since the original nat. gas jet and the bbq jet are both installed into the support bracket of the burner ring using a squeeze fit, I did not spend much time positioning the bbq jet into the exact center of the burner ring. This is because each time I twisted the bbq jet, it got looser. When I replace the burner ring, I may try to attach the jet using some sort of nut/comression fitting. I just read in the recent HBD (8/29) that one of the readers was having a problem getting his converted cooker to boil water. Since he hooked his cooker up to his house propane, I suspect that the problem is low pressure of the gas. The stove and hwh do not need to produce a great deal of heat, so safety would indicate that the gas supply pressures would be kept low. I don't know if the pressure regulator can (or should) be adjusted to a higher pressure. Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 18:25:20 -0400 From: TRoat at aol.com Subject: RE: Chuck Mryglot's Spigot Question Chuck requested information on a replacement spigot for 10 gallon igloo cooler. Igloo's Customer Service # is 1-800-364-5566 (I think part # 9590 at $4 - double check with them to be sure). Hope that helps. Todd W. Roat TRoat at aol.com "Beers are alot like women (insert 'men' for you lady brewers) ....They all look good, they all taste good, and you'd walk over your own mother just to get on!" - Homer Simpson Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 17:24:35 -0700 From: gmccarthy at dayna.com (Gary McCarthy) Subject: Alt Recipe, et al Jerry Cunningham (ESMPD)" <gcunning at Census.GOV> would like an all-grain Altbier recipe. Got one for ya, Jerry!!! Taken right from Miller's book. >>>>Side-trip>>>> Three books all home all-grain brewers should own: 1) Charlie P's book MJOHB 2) Miller's book 3) Micheal Jackson's Beers of the World <<<<<<< Altbier 3 lbs Vienna Malt 4 lbs Barley 4 oz Crystal (120 or so) 1/2 oz chocolate malt Didn't write down the AAUs but I used 2 oz Hallertau and 1 oz of Tettnager(sp?) Yeast - Brewers Choice - Belgian Ale Mash-in 10 qt at 136.F. Protein rest 30 min at 132.F. Raise to 145. - 153. F for at least 90 min. Mash-out 5 min at 168.F. Sparge, boil to reduce. Added 1 oz Hallertau at 1 hr before end, 1 oz Tettnager at 30 min, 1 oz Hallertau at 5 min. Makes an excellent tasting beer! Bessette, Bob" <bessette at msmailgw.uicc.com> says he wonders about a Mash Jacket - Well, Bob, it sometimes gets real cold on the porch while brewing ., but you needn't buy a special jacket!!! gravels at TRISMTP.npt.nuwc.navy.mil asked about the Cats Meow 3. I'm pretty sure it is only accessible through the Web at http://alpha.rollanet.org/cm3/CatsMeow3.html. If you have internet access, can't you just get Netscrape and be on the Web??? I think you should be able to do that. Get Netscape 1.1N at ftp2.netscape.com. BTW, set-up your home-page as http://www.umich.edu/~spencer/beer/beer-others.html. Steven W. Schultz <swschult at cbdcom.apgea.army.mil> says his beer peaks out at about 5 weeks!! My beers improve consistently with age and I keep them in the unheated(and uncooled!) garage. Your basement at 60. ought to be just fine. But, according to Miller, he has never noticed any degradation of the flavor of his beers because they are in an unregulated space. I go along with that. Well, I guess thats about all. Gary McCarthy gmccarthy at dayna.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1819, 08/31/95

[Back] Back up a level. Converted, by HBD2HTML written by K.F.L.