HOMEBREW Digest #1877 Tue 07 November 1995

Digest #1876 Digest #1878

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  RE another GOTT conversion technique (Tim Fields)
  Yeast Lab facts (Jeff Renner)
  Dream Pillow (IHomeBrew)
  re: open fermenters (Tirebiterz)
  re: Subject:  Burnt Crud (Tirebiterz)
  Bleach Cost (WALZENBREW)
  Food Grade Plastic Q (novices)
  I love my Bruheat! (Douglas Kerfoot)
  Kettle Oil Baths, etc (Kirk R Fleming)
  MW of nat.gas, propane, & air / Web pages / Glatt mill ("Keith Royster")
  remove burnt crud ("Keith Royster")
  Freezing starters? ("William G. Rucker")
  Propane Indoors (Frank J Dobner +1 +1 708 979 5124)
  Wheat beer question (Jim Dickinson)
  Re: Homebrewing in Japan (Chris Green)
  Relative molecular weights (John W. Braue, III)
  Results - 1995 CDO HC (Fred Hardy)
  Storing Wort ("James Hojel")
  re ph test strips ("Sharon A. Ritter")
  Irish Moss (BrianE)
  counter pressure bottling (Andy Walsh)
  Wohlgemuth Units (Andy Walsh)
  RE: Burnt Crud (Greg Geiger)
  Kits (Sascha Kaplan)
  airlock fluid (dludwig)
  RE airlock advice (tfields)
  re: Storing Wort for Yeast Starters (Al Stevens)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 04 Nov 95 11:42:56 EST From: Tim Fields <74247.551 at compuserve.com> Subject: RE another GOTT conversion technique Subject: RE another Gott conversion technique Sent: 11/4/95 9:52 AM To: czesz at nadn.navy.mil HBD Posting Adress, homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com Hello All, Posters are asking about converting Gott coolers. Following are two posts from LT Alan D Czeszynski <czesz at nadn.navy.mil> Dated Sept 20 and 18, 1995 that I saved. The first is a followup post to his original that contains a slight design modification. The second is the original. Since Alan hasnt posted, I hope his design didnt fall apart ;-) ++ Alan: how's your Gott working? Subject: Gott Cooler Conversion - Bung Design Follow-Up I was reminded by fellow HBD reader Joe Passante that the flexible tube I was originally going to run from the elbow to the bung gets very pliable when hot, and chances are it would collapse under the weight of the mash. So I've re-engineered my design to include a hard plastic tube between the elbow and the bung. Since the elbow is about 1/3 inch higher than the bung opening, I had to ensure some compliance at each end of the hard tube. I felt that if I straight-lined the hard tube through the bung, the offset would cause bung deformation, increasing the potential for leak-by. The specifics of the modified design follow: 1. Materials: (1) 12 inch Phalse bottom (2) 1-1/2 inch long sections of 3/8 in OD Flex tube (1) 5-1/4 inch long section of hard plastic racking cane tube (3) 2-1/2 inch long section of hard plastic racking cane tube (clear if possible) (1) Fass Frisch 5 liter keg bung (1) In-line ball valve with barbed fittings for 3/8 inch tubing 2. Set-up procedure: a. Slide one end of the 5-1/2 inch racking cane tube about 1/3 of an inch into one of the 1-1/2 inch long flex tube pieces. Attach the other end of the flex tube to the barbed elbow connection, leaving about a 1/8 inch gap between the end of the hard tube and the elbow (this is on of the compliant joints). Set this assembly aside. b. Remove the hard plastic insert from the bung (save this important piece for later use when just using the cooler as a cooler, or when washing the cooler!). Insert the second 1-1/2 inch flex tube into the opening in the bung, ensure at least 1/2 inch projects out of the wide end of the bung (the side that will be on the inside of the cooler). c. Insert the bung assembly into the cooler. d. Insert the 2-1/2 inch long piece of clear racking tube into the bung assembly from the outside until the inside end just reaches the end of the bung. About 2 inches will project out from the cooler. I recommend using clear tubing here because this is a great place to check for clarity of wort run-off using a bright light and a white paper background. e. Place the assembly from step (a) into the cooler, attaching the free end of the hard plastic tube to the flex tube projecting from the bung. Ensure there is a 1/8 inch gap between the two ends of the hard plastic tubes. This is the second compliant joint. f. Attach the ball vale to the hard plastic tubing projecting out from the bung using the remaining short length of flex tube. I op-tested this rig last night with 8 gallons of water at 150 deg. There were no leaks after 10 hours. The seal is sufficiently tight that there is no need for any adhesives or other sealing compounds. The apparatus can be easily removed for cleaning, or to convert your cooler back to its original function. You can also remove everything but the bung and re-insert the hard plastic plug that came with it for easy washing. A few people have asked where I got the bung and the valve, here is the info for all (standard no promo disclaimer applies): The valve is pretty common at homebrew stores. One mail order source I know of is HopTech, p 19 of the summer catalog, for $2.25. 1-800-DRY-HOPS The bung should be sold anywhere the 5 liter kegs are sold. I bought mine from the Brew Pot in Bowie, MD (301) 805-6799. - ------- Date: Mon, 18 Sep 1995 10:15:45 -0400 (EDT) From: LT Alan D Czeszynski <czesz at nadn.navy.mil> Subject: 10 Gallon Gott cooler spigot conversion - THE ANSWER ! To all of those homebrewers with a 10 gallon Gott Mash/Lauter tun - I spent the weekend searching for a good answer to the spigot replacement problem. I plan on using the Phil's Phalse bottom with the cooler, and spent Friday at the hardware warehouse piecing together valves, nipples, adapters, etc to meet my needs. The device was getting pretty ugly, so I decided to just go with a rubber stopper with flexible tubing through it. So on Saturday I went to my local homebrew store and picked out a stopper, and started buying some other stuff (who can spend only $0.65 at a homebrew store?), when the owner brought out a bin full of "bungs". One look and I knew I had found the Holy Grail. These bungs are designed for the German Fass/Frisch 5 liter mini-kegs so you can transport/store beer in the keg without pressurizing it. It is really a bung within a bung, because when you are ready to tap the keg, you remove a hard plastic insert from the bung and insert the tap/charging device. Well it just so happens that this bung fits into the hole left by removing the spigot from the 10 gallon Gott perfectly (see graphics)!! | | <----- inner cooler wall |_| _ _<------- bevel that inner wall of cooler fits into | |_| |_ (just like the original gasket/O-ring) inside | \ <------ soft rubber bung cooler | \ | \ |______________\ ____________| | | <-------- hard plastic insert ______________ |____________| | / | | / | / | _ _ / |_| |_| _ | | | | 3/8 inch OD flexible tubing fits snugly into the gap left when the plastic insert is removed. The tubing is connected to the barbed elbow coming out of the false bottom, and I put a plastic ball valve in-line external to the cooler to control sparge flow rates. I op-tested the integrity of the system over the weekend when I soaked the cooler in ~9 gallons of warm water with baking soda (to get rid of the plastic smell). Result - not a drop leaked by! IMHO, this is by far the easiest, cleanest solution to the cooler conversion problem. I hope this info helps. Alan - --------------------------------------------------------------------- LT Alan Czeszynski, USN | czesz at greatlakes.nadn.navy.mil | Department of Naval Architecture, | Ocean and Marine Engineering | voice: 410-293-6436 | fax: 410-293-2219 U. S. Naval Academy Annapolis, MD | DSN: 281-6436 "Reeb!" Tim Fields ... Fairfax, VA timf at relay.com (non-brewing time) 74247.551 at compuserve.com (weekends) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 95 13:48:45 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Yeast Lab facts In HBD 1874, "Craig Rode" <craig.rode at sdrc.com> wrote >Nonetheless, both here and in rec.crafts.brewing, Wyeast is by far more >popular. I have been using the Yeastlab A04 for pale ales with excellent >results. Does anyone here have any comment on the relative quality of the two >companies, and the reasons for the seeming greater popularity of Wyeast? Wyeast's greater popularity is undoubtedly due to their size and availability. Although not the first (MeV takes that distinction), it has been active far longer than Yeast Lab, and has wider distribution because Yeast Lab is exclusively distributed by GW Kent (Yeast Lab is actually a trademark owned by GWK, not a company). Yeast Lab can be perceived as being more difficult to use, because the packaging instructs you to make a starter. Not a bad thing IMHO. Yeast Lab cultures are produced by The Yeast Culture Kit Company. YCKC is owned and operated by Dan McConnell, who is a PhD and has a day job as Research Scientist at the University of Michigan. He is an incredibly energetic guy, and very anal (good trait in a person you are buying your yeast from). He published the Yeast Lab Quality Assurance procedures last March on Lambic Digest (available via archives on Spencer's Beer Page - http://www-personal.umich.edu/~spencer/beer/). They are impressive. While it is a one man operation, it is a sophisticated lab with modern, high quality production equipment. Randy Reichwage, owner of GW Kent, and Dan are both friends of mine, which is how I know this stuff, but I have no interest in either company other than seeing friends succeed and brewers have access to high quality yeast (and Dan supplies me with yeast, usually old stuff for QA testing, but, "I can't be bought for a mere $3.50," as Dave Draper's sig. line often quotes me). BTW, Dan, Randy, and Spencer, as well as Mike O'Brien and Dave West of pico-Brewing Systems, are members of Ann Arbor Brewers' Guild. Do we have a killer club or what? Dan posted the YeastLab IDs to HBD a few months ago. They are (W = Weihenstephan): A01 Australian Cooper A02 American Chico A03 London Whiteshield A04 British Whitbread A05 Irish Guinness A06 Dusseldorf W164 A07 Canadian Molson A08 Belgian Brigand A09 English Ringwood L31 Pilsner W34/70 L32 Bavarian W206 L33 Munich W308 L34 St Louis A/B L35 California Anchor W51 Bavarian Wheat W66 W52 Belgian Wheat Bruge M61 Dry mead Pasteur champagne M62 Sweet mead Steinberger 3200 Brettanomyces Cantillion 3220 Pediococcus Cantillion - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 14:55:46 -0500 From: IHomeBrew at aol.com Subject: Dream Pillow Has anyone out there made the "Dream Pillow" that Papazian referrs to on pages 59-60 of _The_Home_Brewer's_Companion_? It is supposed to induce vivid dreams through the aromatic combination of various herbs, including hops. I am asking because I recently made one and want to hear if anyone has had any similar experiences. Clark, Tacoma, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 15:03:00 -0500 From: Tirebiterz at aol.com Subject: re: open fermenters Mark Thompson wrote: <<Now i'm in the market for a sutible vessil for open fermentation.>> Try looking in your local yellow pages under "Drums & Barrels". Here in Denver I found a mom & pop packaging distributer that carries (or can get) every size & shape of plastic FDA container imaginable, at about half the price of HB shops. They did have a $25 minimum, but finding someone to pool with was simple. Gregg Howard Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 15:03:00 -0500 From: Tirebiterz at aol.com Subject: re: Subject: Burnt Crud Randy Erickson wrote: <<Question: How do I get rid of this stuff?>> I had the same experience and tried everything, including boiling a strong solution of dishwasher powder in the pot (not recommended!). I finally tried leaving about a quart of vinegar in the pot for a couple of days and heating it up when I thought of it. That seemed to loosen the crud enough to allow it to be scrubbed out with steel wool. I can't catagorically state that the vinegar was the one thing that did the job, but nothing I used before seemed to touch the carbonized gunk. It was also the first acidic solution I tried; maybe that made the difference. Gregg Howard Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 16:33:39 -0500 From: WALZENBREW at aol.com Subject: Bleach Cost >>In HBD #1870, I compared iodophor and bleach, and stated: >>(with Iodaphors you can air-dry without rinsing, but >>Iodaphor is about six times as expensive as bleach) Dan Sherman writes in HBD #1873: >I disagree. If you use 3/4 cup of bleach per 5 gallons, you can make >about 110 gal. of sanitizer per gallon of bleach (about $3). From many >homebrew shops, you can buy 1L of iodophor for about $10. Using a >concentration of 25ppm, you can make about 350 gal. of sanitizer (for >$10). That seems about equivalent to me. Dan, your cost of living must be pretty high if bleach where you live costs $3 per gallon - I've never paid more than about a buck and a quarter for a gallon of 5.25% chlorine bleach - and you sometimes can get the white label kind (still 5.25%) for a buck or less a gallon. Assuming $1.25 a gallon, this comes to a little over a penny an ounce. 3/4 cup is six ounces, so you can make my extra-strong (yes, I know it's overkill at this strength) 5 gallon solution for about 6.5 cents worth of bleach. The price for Iodaphors at my local homebrew shop is 50 cents an ounce. If you use 2 tablespoons to get the recommended 25 ppm strength, that's one ounce (1 tablespoon = 1/2 ounce). Thus bleach is 50/6.5, or 7.7 times cheaper even at my 3/4 ounce use level. Even at $10/liter (70.4 ounces), which is an extremely good price for Iodaphors, that's about 14 cents an ounce, or 14/6.5 or about twice as expensive. All figures aside, the point is that bleach is cheap and easy to find and kills everything. That's why I continue to use it - and will continue to use it in the future. What works best for a brewery or micro is not necessarily the best for us homebrewers. And as far as what happens when it goes down the drain: I let my local sewage authority worry about that. They've been handling bleach for generations and aren't complaining. That's what my taxes and sewage bills pay for. Prosit! Greg Walz WALZENBREW at aol.com Pittsburgh, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 13:44:16 -0800 (PST) From: novices <novices at poniecki.haas.Berkeley.EDU> Subject: Food Grade Plastic Q Thanks to all you who answered my questions re the quality of Oakland water (good for brewing from the tap, boiled) and using oatmeal in stouts (most said to mix it in with other grains). I have another question arising out of economics... The question: Can anyone tell me how to tell if a plastic bucket is of food-grade quality suitable for making a lauter tun? Specifically, I noted that the laundry detergent here comes in white 5-gallon buckets, which look to be the right size for making my own lauter tun. Would these white plastic buckets be safe for pouring hot grains into without danger of chemicals or flavors leaching out? The detergent brand is Clout, on the bottom of the bucket it has HDPE #2 (re recycling quality), and it looks like to me the bucket manuafacturer would be a company named HUISH. Just wondering if maybe I have a free, in-house source for basic materials here. Thanks in advance! Br. James Thompson - novices at poniecki.haas.berkeley.edu St. Albert's Priory, Novitiate Order of Friars Preachers Oakland, California Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 16:46:05 -0500 From: dkerfoot at freenet.macatawa.org (Douglas Kerfoot) Subject: I love my Bruheat! >Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 10:26:21 -0600 >From: Danny Mastre <dmastre at bcbsnd.com> >Subject: Bruheat > > >I have seen a Mash/Tun-Boiler called a Bruheat. Was wondering if anyone >has used this or seen it used before. It looked kind of interesting. > tia danny >Danny Mastre dmastre at bcbsnd.com >Blue Cross Blue Shield of ND >701-277-2436 I love my Bruheat! I have been using it for over a year and would recommend it to anyone. If you are going mash in it, be sure to buy the special grain-bag for it. This keeps the grains from sticking to and burning on the heating element. Most of the complaints I have heard from people are caused by this. The temperature controller works, but sometimes the temperature can run away from you if you're not careful. What I do most of the time now is heat water in the bruheat, mash and sparge in a gott cooler, and then boil in the bruheat. I still do extra high gravity batches in the bruheat because of it's 6 gallon (5 Imperial) capacity. Lets me stuff more grain in there. I don't think that you can get the 110 volt models anymore. If you can DON'T. The 220v model boils water perfectly. Not real fast, but a beautiful roiling boil (yes, roiling). Once the initial foaming has subsided, you can leave a full 6 gallons boiling with no fear of boilover. Someone is sure to tell you that it will carmelize your wort and that you can't brew a very light, delicate beer in a Bruheat. Even Charlie Papazian, who I normally agree with, is dead wrong on this matter. It's kind of funny, he praised the Bruheat in his first book, then slams it in his second. Rumor has it that he and Kinney Baughman (SP?), owner of BrewCo had a little falling out. I've got a friend.. well, I work with a guy.. um, let's just say I know someone who uses a bruheat and ended up with a batch of American lager that is just as anemic looking as Bud Light. He is wondering how he can add some color, ANY color to it. Used properly, the Bruheat will not carmelize your wort, nor will it darken your beer. For under $100.00 you can get a five (actually 6) gallon boiler/mash tun with a built in heat source. It even has a grommeted hole on its very tight fitting lid so that you could put an airlock in it and use it as a primary fermenter(I don't recommend this). Another option would be to insert a tube into this hole to capture the vapors that evaporate from a liquid being heated to a precise temperature in the Bruheat. Now why would anyone want to do that? Perhaps Kinney's neighbors in Boone, N.C. know of some potential use for this. Did I mention that I love my Bruheat? I am not affiliated with BrewCo in any way, but if Kinney sends me $5.00 or free beer I will accept it. Doug Kerfoot (I like beer) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 14:30:04 -0700 From: flemingk at usa.net (Kirk R Fleming) Subject: Kettle Oil Baths, etc David Hill in #1875 asks for opinions regarding his idea of an oil bath "buffer" for heating a kettle. I think the idea is not too bad, but I'd recommend against using oil as the "working fluid". Without getting everone's shorts in a twist with an unfounded overreaction, it's safe to say that *you could* get called away from the unit and find the oil at it's flash point, with a consequent disaster of Biblical magnitude. Even an accidental spill in the presence of an open burner might prove rather incediary. Consider instead a glycol solution--I have no idea what the boiling point can be brought up to using a glycol-water mix, but I'd think 250F might be possible. Just an idea. A mercury bath would be pretty cool, too--I believe the Binford ToxiTherm 4000 uses this technology. Another solution might be to take the portion of the keg that was removed to make it a kettle and fastening that portion to the bottom outside surface of the keg (with a steel retainer) you might get improved heat distribution. Obviously this idea stinks if you didn't both make your own kettle AND save the scrap, if for no other reason. KRF Colorado Springs - ------------------------------------------------------ "We can help the cause of pale ale both by drinking it and brewing it as much as possible." Terry Foster - ------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 19:51:30 +0500 ET From: "Keith Royster" <N1EA471 at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us> Subject: MW of nat.gas, propane, & air / Web pages / Glatt mill <HARLEN BAUER QUOTE> > I'm sorry, but I simply can't let a half-truth go unchallenged. > Although it is true that Propane is heavier than air and therefore pools > on the ground, so does Natural Gas. Both gasses are heavier than air, > and both have the potential to pool. </HARLEN BAUER QUOTE> Not according to my NIOSH pocket guide to chemical hazards, which has propane's MW listed as 44.1 and natural gas (Methane) as 16.04. The average MW of air is 28.9 (according to the Engineer-In-Training Reference Manual). So apparently methane *is* lighter than air and will not pool. But then again this won't really help you brew indoors unless you have explosion proof light fixtures ;-) But seriously folx, I think the main concern with either of these gases being used indoors is adequate ventilation for the products of combustion, not the fuels themselves. ##### On another topic, I recently explained to our brewclub members how I was working on a Web page for the club ( and requested ideas from them for things to add to the page. One of the ideas I already had (not original) was to include monthly club activities such as brew sessions and beer tastings along with instructions on when and where to meet. Several of the members expressed concern with this idea stating that they didn't want Mr. Neoprohibitionist Cop finding out on the web where & when to stake out these meetings so he can then pull people over when they try to leave for drinking and driving. Now my initial reaction is that this is a bit extreme. They might as well just not belong to the club (the cop could get our newsletter from the local brew stores too). But maybe I'm being a bit naive (sp?). I guess I could just leave out the details on the page and instruct visitors to contact a member for this info. Whaddaz the collective think about this? If you respond, let me know where you live. I'm curious if this us just a southern/babble-belt thing. And one last question. I was planning on asking for a Glatt Grain Mill for my birthday, but am now obviously concerned since they are going out of business that the warrently wouldn't be worth much. It was my understanding that this was *the* mill to have. So what would the experienced all-grainers recommend? Buy the Glatt and cross the fingers, or is there a close second placer? Keith Royster - NC DEHNR - Mooresville, NC, USA Voice: (704) 663-1699 x252 Fax: (704) 663-6040 email: KRoyster at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us etalk: KRoyster at ws21.mro.ehnr.state.nc.us Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 1995 20:04:00 +0500 ET From: "Keith Royster" <N1EA471 at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us> Subject: remove burnt crud Randy Erickson is wondering how to remove the burnt/scorched crud from the inside of his 15gal boiler. Assuming its a SS boiler, I use a spray on oven cleaner and let sit for a few minutes. Works wonderfully! Don't use this on aluminum though. And while I'm here again, I'd like to apologize for any confusion I may have caused with a recent post regarding yeast slants VS stabs. The method I described was neither, but was (I think) a good description of yeast *plating*. Again, sorry for any confusion. Keith Royster - NC DEHNR - Mooresville, NC, USA Voice: (704) 663-1699 x252 Fax: (704) 663-6040 email: KRoyster at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us etalk: KRoyster at ws21.mro.ehnr.state.nc.us Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Nov 95 23:05:14 EST From: "William G. Rucker" <ruckewg at naesco.com> Subject: Freezing starters? I have a curious question for those who make up starters for their yeast. Has anyone frozen fresh starter wort with any success? I have made starters for the past year or so and enjoy the better start times on fermentaton but the small amount of starter wort can take a substantial amount of time to prepare. This is especially true of building from cultures. One quick word on airlocks. I get the impression that some people are filling their airlocks to full with whatever solution they use. I have always filled mine (S style) with water and with enough volume to keep the nasties out but without enough to get sucked back through. The airlock should work the other way too, right? Just a thought. Bill Rucker Senior Computer Technician - Seabrook Station Nuclear Power Plant ruckewg at naesco.com (work) brewzer at peanut.mv.com (home) Return to table of contents
Date: 1 Nov 95 19:50:00 -0600 From: fjdobner at intgp1.att.com (Frank J Dobner +1 +1 708 979 5124) Subject: Propane Indoors Honestly, the subject of propane use indoors is one that I am glad occurs many times per year on the HBD. Quite selfishly, it helps me to remember to treat propane with a lot of respect. I also use propane indoors and I think I do all the right things. If you get sick of the propane posts, just think of them as a "wake-up call." Frank Dobner Aurora, Illinois "It takes a very careful brewer to be extremely dangerous." Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 09:50:33 GMT From: jdickins at baste.magibox.net (Jim Dickinson) Subject: Wheat beer question hey all, I have brewed several all grain wheat beers following eric warners directions to the tee and they all turned out tasting like tea does when you steep the teabag too long, BITTER. I am wondering why this might be. I've double checked everything I can think of and can come up with nothing. None of my other all grains turn out like this. The ONLY way I deviate from e.w. is my use of 1# more grain. My gut feeling is this decoction crap, I just knew the grains were never meant to be boiled. If anyone has any suggestions, I am open to them. As it stands now my wheat beer efforts will be put on hold, though I may try a non-decoction wheat beer, such as a belgain wit. thanks, jim Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 20:43:31 +0900 From: Chris Green <chris at gol.com> Subject: Re: Homebrewing in Japan Chris Pittock writes: > This converts to around US$36.50 and US$30.50! > > >Added to all this, I have found out that it is strictly illegal to make > >your own beer with more than 1% alcohol in it! Guess there wont be any > >>Japanese Indian Pale Ales! > > Anyone scared?! Not that *I'd* ever brew anything with more than 1% ABV, but let's just say the word "strictly" is, um, open to interpretation. And we have our sources.... :-) Even the figures quoted by Chris lose some of their scariness when you consider that a 10-liter case of the local megaswill can't be had for less than US$60. Remember, this is the country where Schaefer sells for $1.20 a can. _______________________________________________________________________ Chris Green Tokyo, Japan <chris at gol.com> "I wish I was a Cadillac on a northbound train" Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Nov 1995 09:54:26 From: braue at ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III) Subject: Relative molecular weights blacksab at siu.edu (Harlan Bauer) asks : >I'm sorry, but I simply can't let a half-truth go unchallenged. Although it >is true that Propane is heavier than air and therefore pools on the ground, >so does Natural Gas. Both gasses are heavier than air, and both have the >potential to pool. > >Could someone familiar with the relative molecular weights post the >densities of air, propane, and natural gas. Is propane really that much >heavier than natural gas? > Natural gas is predominantly methane (CH[4]), which has a molecular weight of 16. Propane is C[3]H[8], giving it a molecular weight of 44. Air, of course, doesn't have a "molecular weight" as such, since it is not a pure gas, but a mixture thereof. As a good first approximation, however, we can consider air to be 80% nitrogen (N[2]), molecular weight 28, and 20% oxygen (O[2]), molecular weight 32. Thus the average molecular weight of air is (.8*28)+(.2*32) = 28.8. As I dimly remember from my chemistry courses, all gases, at any given temperature and pressure, have the same number of molecules per unit volume, and therefore their densities are solely dependent on their molecule weights. Taking the density of air as 1.000, therefore, natural gas should have a density of 0.556, and propane a density of 1.523. I would be surprised if natural gas had any tendency to "pool" _per se_; I'd want to see the evidence. Of course, let us remember that the "pooling" effect will occur only if there are no convection currents, etc., to mix the gases (and all gases are miscible in all proportions). Carbon dioxide, with the same molecular weight (and therefore density) as propane, can and does "pool" under the proper circumstances, but is usually found well-mixed with the other components of the atmosphere. A non-pooling gas will not necessarily be safer, either. A "pool" of pure gas will only burn along its boundary with fresh air (need oxygen for burning, yes?), at least until the convection currents produced by the burning break up the pool. OTOH, a combustible gas welll-mixed with the air will produce a nicely explosive mixture, a la the mixture of gasoline vapor and air in an I/C engine cylinder. Conclusion: whether your cooker set-up burns propane, natural gas, acetylene, hydrogen, or nitromethane, be sure that the area is well-ventilated, to carry off combusition by-products and fuel leaks. - -- John W. Braue, III braue at ratsnest.win.net I prefer both my beer and my coffee to be dark and bitter; that way, they fit in so well with the rest of my life. I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 1995 11:21:11 -0500 (EST) From: Fred Hardy <fcmbh at access.digex.net> Subject: Results - 1995 CDO HC RESULTS OF THE 1995 CAPITOL DISTRICT OPEN Washington, DC November 4, 1995 My thanks to Wayne Gisiger, Judge Coordinator, and Kevin Anderson, Assistant Organizer, for their help in making this year's competition a success. Thanks, also, to the judges, stewards and entrants, and particularly our Best of Show judges: Scott Bickham, David Houseman, Mike Lelivelt and Craig Pepin. There were 216 entries. Winners are: STRONG ALE: 1st Eng. Old/Strong Ale Nir Navot 2nd Imperial Stout Rex Saffer 3rd Eng. Old/Strong Ale Nir Navot BELGIAN STYLE: 1st Sour Cherry Lambic George Griffith 2nd Belgian Strong Ale Robert Waddell 3rd Belgian Tripel David Houseman BRITISH MIXED ALE 1st English Bitter John Dickman 2nd English Brown Paul Vezzetti 3rd Scottish Light Rock Roberts ENGLISH-STYLE PALE ALE 1st Extra Special Bitter Gerard Filicko 2nd English Pale Ale Mike Lelivelt 3rd English Pale Ale Terry Rowell AMERICAN ALE 1st American Brown Rick Gontarek 2nd American Brown Gerald Palombi 3rd American Brown David Kimball AMERICAN MIXED 1st American Pale Lager Martin Stokes 2nd American Pale Lager Martin Stokes 3rd American Pale Lager Terry Sanderson DARK ALES (PORTER & STOUT) 1st Robust Porter Mark Marson 2nd Classic Dry Stout Wendell Ose 3rd Brown Porter Kevin Anderson PALE CONTINENTAL BEERS 1st German Pilsner Dan Litwin 2nd Bohemian Pilsner Tom Gaworski 3rd German Pilsner Rhett Rebold VIENNA/OKTOBERFEST 1st Oktoberfest/Maerzen Chris Hamilton 2nd Oktoberfest/Maerzen George Fix 3rd Oktoberfest/Maerzen Craig Pepin DARK GERMAN BEERS 1st Munich Dunkel Dan Litwin 2nd Doppelbock Rich Rosowski 3rd Munich Dunkel Mah Zaccheo GERMAN-STYLE WHEAT BEERS 1st Ger-style Weizen Paul Harwig 2nd Weizenbock Rex Saffer 3rd Dunkelweizen Rex Saffer NOVELTY BEERS 1st Herb Beer - Xmas Spices Mah Zaccheo 2nd Herb Beer - Jalepena Mike Westman 3rd Herb Beer - Ginger Nir Navot SPECIALTY BEERS 1st Classic Specialty Rich Rosowski 2nd Specialty Beer Wayne Gisiger 3rd Specialty Beer Rhett Rebold NON-BEERS - MEADS AND CIDERS Best of Show - Traditional Mead Ed Iaciofano 2nd Herb Mead John Carlson 3rd Traditional Mead Fred Hardy BEST OF SHOW: Paul Harwig with a German-style Weizen Congratulations to all of the winners! Cheers, Fred ============================================================================== We must invent the future, else it will | <Fred Hardy> happen to us and we will not like it. | [Stafford Beer, "Platform for Change"] | email: fcmbh at access.digex.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 95 21:30:20 UT From: "James Hojel" <JTroy at msn.com> Subject: Storing Wort Thank you for all your responses on storing wort. The following are a few of the suggestions and ideas. - ------- 1) With regards to storing wort for yeast starters, the real issue is maintaining sterility. Despite boiling of the wort and transfer into sanitized bottles, it is not sterile and therefore long-term storage can be problematic. Aside from actually autoclaving the wort after brewing, the other alternative is to use a procedure called Tyndallyzation or fractional sterilization. This technique is used to sterilize liquids which decompose upon autoclaving. What you want to do is add wort to sanitized bottle on brew day then 1-2 days after bottling place the bottle (slightly loosened lid; I'd cover the lid with aluminum foil just in case of boilover, etc). in boiling water. Heat for about 30 minutes and cool. Repeat this one more time a couple days later. How this works is that the repeated heating cycles will kill any spores that may have survived and been activated after the first or second boil. The actual process is much like canning and does not require a pressure cooker. BTW this procedure is very similar to that used by some of the big brewery labs. 2) Canning wort via pressure cooker. Thanks you. Return to table of contents
Date: 05 Nov 95 17:17:37 EST From: "Sharon A. Ritter" <102446.3717 at compuserve.com> Subject: re ph test strips Harlan: >Anyone have any experience with Color pHast?< I've been using these strips for the past year after a brief and frustrating experience with the cheap ones. They work really well (as well as pH test strips can be expected) and can be rinsed. I have my eyes on a digital pH probe but the $50 price tag is scary. However, the ColorpHast strips cost $15... As for your complaint about hb shop selection, I'd suggest looking into HopTech or Brewer's Resource for those hard to find items. I receive my orders in 3-4 days. The usual disclaimers apply - I'm just a satisfied customer. Dan Ritter in Grangeville, Idaho 102446.3717 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 95 16:30 CST From: BrianE at anesthesia-po.anesth.uiowa.edu Subject: Irish Moss Should I be worried that re-hydrated Irish Moss always smells like fish to me? Or should seaweed always smell like fish? Does the aroma somehow reflect the quality of the product? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 10:11:42 +1100 (EST) From: awalsh at crl.com.au (Andy Walsh) Subject: counter pressure bottling I seem to have a lot of trouble with my Benjamin Machine Products counter pressure bottler. It works OK after you get the hang of it (low foaming); I get nice clear beer that tastes just like the keg it came out of. The trouble is that the shelf life, even when stored in the fridge, is about a month, after which time it gets stale (oxidised). I theorise that this is due to the lack of yeast sediment in the bottles, failing to take out the small amount of O2 introduced in the bottling process (yes I purge the bottle first, 3 times). Has anybody else had this problem with counter-pressure bottling? ****************************************** Andy Walsh from Sydney Ph. (02) 212 6333 email awalsh at crl.com.au ****************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 1995 10:55:57 +1100 (EST) From: awalsh at crl.com.au (Andy Walsh) Subject: Wohlgemuth Units I have just had an unusual request which I cannot answer. Maybe someone here can: ********** The sentens he refers is like this:"To prepare a typical small batch of mash, 327,5 kg of the ground corn, 1007 L of tap water ...and 2.04 x 10^7 units of carbohydrase(modified Wohlgemuth units of Bacillus licheniformis)". I work in the field of fermentation but I dont know the term "Wohlgemuth". I gess he have got the rescription from some beer source. Do You know this term or any who might ? ********** Anyone who can answer this question will receive this week's Homebrew Digest Egghead of the Week virtual award. ****************************************** Andy "Wohlgemuth" Walsh from Sydney Ph. (02) 212 6333 email awalsh at crl.com.au ****************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 1995 21:02:10 -0500 From: Greg Geiger <geiger at grove.ufl.edu> Subject: RE: Burnt Crud ON Thu, 2 Nov 1995 RANDY ERICKSON <RANDYE at mid.org> Wrote: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::After fifty or so batches (extract based) I had a strange experience on ::my last batch. A nice black ring of burnt crud (sugars) on the bottom of ::my 15 gal keg boiler. Reminiscent of the last time the SO let the water ::boil out of a pot of beans -- and that was _my_ fault too somehow, BTW. :: ::Question: How do I get rid of this stuff? :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Try this out (I learned it from having to clean out metal coffee pots in a restaraunt(): Take the pot and put ICE (that frozen water stuff) in it. Swish it around and then use a scouring pad to scrape the crud off. This may take a little work, but it is easier than doing it with pure synovial fluid (elbow grease.) The crud contracts differently than the metal does when it freezes so it loses its bond. Greg Geiger geiger at grove.ufl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 1995 22:47:02 -0500 (EST) From: Sascha Kaplan <kaplan at panther.middlebury.edu> Subject: Kits Hi. I wanted to thank everybody who wrote me concerning my carbonation problems. Also, I'll pass on the info to the other novices out there: 1. If you use the kits, don't use their instructions. 2. If you do use their instructions change the following things: a. boil the extract in several gallons of water instead of just the 1/2 gallon that the kit might recommend. Add the wort to the remaing cold water in the recipe. b. Be patient. Wait until there have been no bubbles in the airlock for several days, or you're hydrometer readings have been stable for several days in a row, before you bottle. c. boil your priming sugar in a cup and half of water before adding to the siphoned bucket of beer before bottling. d. It should take at least two weeks before the beer gets carbonated, but try a bottle every several days until the carbonation is right. Then chill the bottles. (It has been exactly two weeks, and my batch is just getting it's first bubbles) e. Most importantly, remember to taste everything! If it tastes all right, then things are going well...I learned the hard way, I threw out a perfectly good wort because it didn't ferment. If I had tasted it, I could have just added more yeast. "Relax, have a homebrew" -Sascha Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 1995 22:45:58 -0500 From: dludwig at ameritel.net Subject: airlock fluid >I strongly recommend against putting bleach in the airlock. Sometimes, your >airlock will suck in the airlock fluid, especially early in the fermentation >when the temperature is fluctuating. Just a tiny bit of bleach in your beer >can make your beer taste like powdered steel. Algae, on the other hand, can't >do a whole lot, and a touch of vodka in your beer isn't going to hurt anything. I've seen this suckback problem mentioned before in the digest but have never experienced it myself. In fact I never see the levels in the airlock indicate anything other than zero to positive differential pressure. What causes this? Only thing I can think of is pitching to warm wort then cooling the wort rapidly to fermentation temp such that as the wort/airspace cools, a delta P in the wrong direction forms. Not good. You need to get your yeasts off to the races as fast as possible so they are pumping CO2 and pushing the bubbles in the right direction. In my opinion, any suck back problem draws contaminated outside air into the fermenter and should be avoided completely. Dave Ludwig Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Nov 95 10:52:54 EST From: tfields at relay.com Subject: RE airlock advice Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 09:45:11 -0600 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Airlock blowoff and Trappist Gypsum. In #1874, Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com (aka the -R Dude) offers advice to Eugene Sonn <sonn at oswego.Oswego.EDU re a kraeusen-clogged airlock: >You should either use a blowoff or a larger carboy or >a smaller batch size. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Russell! For shame!! This is not the Russell I know ;-) "reeb!" Tim Fields ... Fairfax, VA timf at relay.com (non-brewing time) timfields at aol.com (weekends) 74247.551 at compuserve.com (weekends) Return to table of contents
Date: 06 Nov 95 05:11:50 EST From: Al Stevens <72704.743 at compuserve.com> Subject: re: Storing Wort for Yeast Starters >1) I'm getting very tiered of paying a couple of bucks every time I want to >make a yeast starter (DME). Question: can I collect some left-over runnings >from my Mash and save it for later use? Maybe freezing it and boiling it >when needed? How long will frozen Wort last; what affects does freezing Wort >have on the quality (chemical structure etc.)? Basically, what is the most >efficient and quality way of saving some Wort for later use? I use those small juice bottles, (you know, they sell them at the lunch counter) for storing sterile wort. When I need to make some, I brew up a standard pale ale, and same enough wort to fill as many bottle as I have. The proceedure: Sterilize the bottles. make some wort fill the bottles 2/3 full set the bottle in a canning pot, sitting on the rack, with enough water to cover the bottles halfway up. put the caps in the pot as well. boil the bejesus out of them! ( a hard boil for about 30 minutes). remove each bottle with canning tongs, fish out a cap, and tighten it down. When cool, store in the pantry along with the tomato paste, beans, wort etc. These bottles take a standard #7 stopper. I put the contents of my yeast source, (vial, wack-pack, slant) into one of these and fit with an airlock. When the activity is present, I put this and another sterile into a larger bottle ( 1 quart milk bottle). This gives me a good quantity of active starter. Al Stevens 72704.743 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1877, 11/07/95