HOMEBREW Digest #1906 Mon 11 December 1995

Digest #1905 Digest #1907

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Re: Partial decoction, boiling kegs (Jim Dipalma)
  questions about mashing (GKING)
  hop usage; boiling times (GKING)
  HSA from RIMS Cavitation ("Ray Cooper")
  EM Probs, New Product (Jack Schmidling)
  Carbonation in two-day-old beer (Robert Paolino)
  Decoction/Sparge (A. J. deLange)
  Re: Dishwasher ("Thomas A. Wideman")
  kettle (DONBREW)
  Foam-in-a-can (C.D. Pritchard)
  Fermentation activity of lagers (freigang)
  catabolite repression ("Tracy Aquilla")
  stuck run-off ("Tracy Aquilla")
  Porter/Milds recipe ("James Hojel")
  Brewpubs in Greenville, SC (Decker at rmtgvl.rmtinc.com, Robin E.)
  Re: Quality (John DeCarlo              )
  Malt Dextrin (gravels)
  Stout High FG (Scott Bukofsky)
  Re: Bottle carbonation (Kris Thomas Messenger)
  Re: counter-flow chillers (Bill Pemberton)
  The great bubble debate (Jim Grady)
  bottle conditioning (Rolland Everitt)
  Strawberry Wheat (cmcgee)
  accuracy/precision, quality (GKING)
  stone-age lagering (Eugene Sonn)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 7 Dec 95 10:19:10 EST From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) Subject: Re: Partial decoction, boiling kegs Hi All, In HBD#1901, Alejandro Midence writes about partial decoction: >Get the malt with the enzymes, (the pale lager and munich), and take it >through a regular step infusion mash. Protein rest at 122 degrees, >raising temperature to about 150 and then to 158, and finally to 170 to >mash out. Now, here's the twist, after mashout temperature has been >reached, raise temperature of mash to a boil and add it to the crystal >malts which have been steeping in water at about 150 all this time. This >should rais the whole thing to about 165 degrees. Then, pour some water >at an equivalent temperature through the grains in the grain bag thereby >conducting some sort of a sparge. Now, remove grains, bring water to >boil and add extracts and hops and brew as normal as any other extract >brew. > >Have I gone mad or is there *some* feasibility in what I've just >written. Can't comment on your sanity Alex :-), but I do see a problem with the procedure you've described. Boiling *all* of the lager and Munich malts does two things. First, it will denature all of the amylase enzymes in the grain. Second, it will gelatinize additional starch, and release unconverted starch into your wort. Since you have already denatured all of the enzymes, there is nothing to convert the starch. You will very likely end up with a starch haze in the finished beer. In a standard decoction, the boiled mash is added back to a "rest mash", ie, grain that has not been boiled and still contains some enzymes. Typically, the resulting temperature boost pushes the mash into sacc. rest range, activating the amylase enzymes in the rest mash, and converting the starch released during the boil. If you'd like some additional information on decoction mashing, I recommend Noonan's "Brewing Lager Beer", or the classic style series books "Bock", by Darryl Richman, and "German Wheat Beer" by Eric Warner. All contain excellent descriptions of the process. ****************************************************************** Much as I tried, I couldn't resist getting in on the boiled kegs thread. Rob Lauriston writes: >I think that this is the *best* way to sanitize Cornelius kegs because the >heat can penetrate into the nooks and crannies around the valves where >liquid sanitizers might not reach. Agreed. I sanitize my kegs by putting a gallon of boiling water in, sealing it up, rolling it around on the floor for a minute, then letting it sit for about 5-10 minutes. I then attach a short length of beverage tubing to the LIQUID OUT fitting, put a little CO2 pressure on, and drain the hot water through the dip tube and out the fitting. This is exactly the same path the beer takes when dispensed. Once the water is drained, a *lot* of steam comes out of the beverage tubing. I'm of the opinion that the steam is very effective as a sanitizer. I've done 60-70 batches this way over the years, with zero infections. Rob continues: >Like any other method of sanitation, it assumes the keg is already clean. I soak my kegs overnight in TSP before filling them, then rinse well with hot water. They are spotlessly clean before sanitizing. There has been some suggestion that using this method of sanitation results in damage to the small O-rings on the poppet valves. In 4 years, I've replaced a total of 6 of these. 5 of the 6 were on GAS IN poppets, which I believe is related to my method of force carbonation and dispensing. I force carbonate, but don't leave the CO2 attached, I chill the keg and re-pressure it twice daily. As a result, the gas connect is repeatedly slid on and off the GAS IN poppet, I think this is why these O-rings wear out more frequently than the ones on the LIQUID OUT poppet. I'd like to get a definitive answer on this, and settle the issue once and for all (HA!). Does anyone have any info on temperature specs for neoprene, or whatever the silly little bleeders are made of?? Cheers, Jim dipalma at sky.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 1995 16:30:18 -0500 (EST) From: GKING <GKING at ARSERRC.Gov> Subject: questions about mashing Greetings, fellow homebrewers, I have not yet ventured into the wonderful world of all-grain brewing (or even partial-grain brewing, for that matter), but I enjoy reading about it here in HBD (hopefully absorbing some knowledge in the process). There are a few questions I have about the mashing process that one of you kind souls could answer (or point me to the relevant book(s)). Why do some brewers use a single protein rest, and others use 2 or even 3 rests? What is accomplished in the "mashing out" step? >From what I've read, one should avoid heating the mash above 170^F (or is it 180^F?) because too many astringent phenolic compounds are extracted from the grains above this temperature. However, in decoc- tion mashing, portions of the grain are removed, boiled (T > 200^F), and then returned to the mash to raise the overall temperature of the mash. Doesn't boiling these portions of grain result in the extraction of some unwanted phenolic compounds? Any enlightenment on these topics will be appreciated. TIA. Greg King gking at arserrc.gov P.S. On another subject: does anyone know what type(s) of hops are used in the Molson ales? Or in Yuengling's Lord Chesterfield ale? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Dec 1995 17:34:55 -0500 (EST) From: GKING <GKING at ARSERRC.Gov> Subject: hop usage; boiling times Greetings Homebrewers, I'd like to pose a question to "The Collective" regarding hop usage: If hop aroma and flavor are pretty much gone after 10-15 minutes of boiling in the wort, and extraction of the bittering alpha acids takes at least 30 minutes of boiling time (with even longer times being preferable), is there ever any benefit derived from an addition of hops with 20 minutes left in the boil? - --Greg King gking at arserrc.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 95 02:44:19 UT From: "Ray Cooper" <Ray_Cooper at msn.com> Subject: HSA from RIMS Cavitation Ok HBD gurus, I've read several articles cautioning against allowing cavitation to occur at the pump in a RIMS system to prevent Hot Side Aeration of the mash liquor and subsequent oxidation. Where does the _air_ (or O2) come from? As I understand, cavitation is caused by "boiling" liquid at the low pressure side of the pump impeller and that the only gas that should be there is H2O vapor. Also what is the consensus about all the beating around that the mash liquor goes through at the pump? Do these really affect the wort and the final product or are they just some more homebrew momisms? Ray "sometimes the obvious is beyond me" Cooper Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 95 22:25 CST From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: EM Probs, New Product I think Al pretty well covered the problems Paul had with his first EM experience. Several other things may be working here. First of all, on the air leaking into the hose at the spigot, a hose clamp usually will correct the problem as Al suggested but if it is caused by a rough parting line on the forging, it is best to correct it. If you look at the spigot, you will note the parting line from the mold it was forged in. If this is rough or protrudes above the surface, it will allow the entrance of air. The simple fix is to file or sand this down to a smooth surface. Like Al, I have never suffered a stuck mash with an EM in about 4 years of use. Based on a onetime experience proving that one could make beer from flour, I made a successful batch with malt that I ran through a Corona set so tight that I could hardly turn it when empty and the husk was so pulverized that the only way one would know it was there was by the tan color it contributed. This leads me to believe that the "crush" is probably not the problem and I would look to other variables. Paul did not mention the kettle size so we have no clue as the the depth of the grain bed. My flour batch was a one gallon batch done in a six qt kettle with an EM installed and this provides about the same form factor and grain depth as my normal mash tun. It is also a point in the process when haste makes waste.The longer one waits after the last stir of the mash, the faster it clears and the better it flows. I routinely let the mash rest 30 mins before opening the spigot. I then open it wide and drain about two cups and slow it down to a trickle and let it run into the kettle. After a gallon or so, I open it all the way and let it go. All earlier suggestions of a second stirring and clearing step to increase the yield are hereby cancelled. Subsequent experience has shown this to be unnecessary and a waste of time and no measurable increase in yield is achieved. To deal with the hot handle, I just keep a pliers handy. The alternative is a far more expensive spigot and hence a more expensive product. ......... NEW PRODUCT ANNOUNCEMENT..... skip if you think you will be offended. Finally, I let a retailer on the West Coast talk me into providing an EM specifically for use in the Gott cooler. He claims it is the best of all worlds, has been selling them for years and just throws away the EM spigots. I have never used a Gott so until I get one, I can make no claims for it. What the Gott EM is, is simply the copper tube, tubular strainer and a hose clamp. You push the copper tube through a drilled rubber stopper till it protrudes enough to get a hose on the end. Push this into the hole on the Gott and VOILA..... Gott/EM. js Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 16:46:53 +1000 From: nigelt at delm.tas.gov.au (Nigel Townsend) Date: Sat, 02 Dec 95 14:40:37 -0500 From: mmoss at PO-Box.McGill.CA Subject:dishwasher Mike Moss of Montreal said: -------------------------------------------------- Does anybody have experience using the dishwasher (as suggested by Dave Miller) to sterilize bottles? Do you use the full cycle or just the heat cycle? If full cycle do you use detergent as if you were washing dishes? --------------------------------------------------- About 6 months ago some one on the HBD talked about this (sorry , forgot the name but liked the idea). I normally keg, but last weekend I wished to bottle some lager. I made sure that there was none of the glass sparkling stuff (new tachnical term) in the little container, removed the filter from the bottom and ran it on two rinse cycles with no soap. This got rid of any gunk in the system. I filled it with bottles with the necks down and ran it on a full cylcle with no soap. The bottles are always well rinsed immediately after use and so had no bits stuck to the inside. When the cycle was finished, I opened the door pulled a bottle out, placed it on the open door as a platform and started filling bottles. Any spillage was trapped in the door and went into the bottom of the dishwasher at the end. I had previously decanted the beer from my brewing container into another brewing container with (brown) sugar dissolved in boiling water on the bottom. As the beer flowed in, it self primed. I then filled the bottles from this brewing container. This process is fast, easy and needs less cleaning up. I will not know for a while if there are any infections which may result. I will let people know if there were. The reason for several rinses and removing the filter is that my son has the responsibility of loading the dishwasher if he wants his pocket money. He doesnt always rinse the big bits off before placing in the dishwasher! Assuming there are no problems with infection, I will certainly use this system again. Nigel Townsend Hobart Tasmania, Australia NIGEL TOWNSEND Environmental Planning Consultant Division of Planning Department of Environment and Land Management Tasmanian State Government Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 02:08:30 -0600 (CST) From: Robert Paolino <rpaolino at execpc.com> Subject: Carbonation in two-day-old beer Anyone have thoughts on this one? I rarely put an airlock on until after the vigourous "happy yeast" phase (don't you love those technical terms---it's late and I'm getting a bit goofy, I suppose)--I don't want to do a blowoff and I don't want a clogged airlock. My primary fermenters are those plastic (gasp! shock! horrours!) 7.5 gallon semi-opaque wine fermenter buckets with the lids that don't fit tightly. Until I'm ready for an airlock, I cover the drilled hole in the lid with a piece of foil or plastic wrap. (That's just the preface, but if you have any comments on why I shouldn't wait to use an airlock, that's fine, too, but also read on.) Today was the second day in the life of a very healthy, happy, vigourously fermenting big-ass (high gravity) brew. The yeast had pretty much fallen, but there was still a decent head on it. The hole in the lid was still covered with the plastic wrap (no airlock yet). Don't ask why, but when I was unloading the dishwasher I set down a coffee mug atop the plastic wrap-covered lid. A little while ago (maybe two hours after the forgotten coffee mug), I decided it was time to move the fermenter to the beer closet and put an airlock on, and noticed something odd, although it shouldn't have entirely surprised me if I'd thought about it: the yeast on top was pretty much gone except a bit around the circumference of the surface of the liquid and the young beer was _very_ fizzy. The CO2 that couldn't escape as easily (but the bucket wasn't going to blow, though--remember the lid is not very tight-fitting) had gone into solution. IS MY BEER RUINED? ;-) Seriously, though, any thoughts on the effect of my having carbonated my two-day old beer? Have I adversely affected the yeast? Can I expect the remainder of the fermentation to proceed normally? Whaddya know about such things? Now go have a beer, Bob Paolino uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Madison rpaolino at earth.execpc.com Winner of the 1995 Great Dane Challenge Look for that 50IBU dry-hopped pale ale at the Great Dane--on beer engine--in early February 1996! Columbus was a Hophead! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 09:16:10 -0500 From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange) Subject: Decoction/Sparge Recent discussion of decoction makes it look like time to repost the pros and cons: Pros (in order of importance with todays highly modified malts): 1. Enhances production of flavor and aroma compounds. 2. Reduces mash pH for better conversion and easier runoff. 3. Less trub in main boil and at chilling 4. Less chance of raw starch carryover to kettle 5. Extracts, coagulates and precipitates tannins, proteins and silicates. 6. Allows thicker mash for earlier rests 7. Better gelatinization of starch 8. Breaks down protein matrix thus releasing more starch and improving extraction. 9. It's the traditional way to make some beers. Note that 7 and 8 do become important where wheat malt or raw wheat are used. Cons: 1. Complicated 2. Requires more equipment 3. Takes a lot more time 4. Darkens beer 5. Extracts tannins as grains are boiled 6. Danger of scorching 7. Uses more enerygy 8. Must be careful about starch released in final decoction 9. "The calassical three-mash system is a long-drawn-out affair and the cheif criticism which has been levelsed against it is that mashing is too intensive [i.e. protein is degraded too far]" Jean deClerk Note that tannin extraction has been listed as a pro and a con. The good news is that some of it is complexed and dropped in the decoction and that as the tannins have been largely extracted in the decoctions one need not be so careful about sparge temperature and pH. The bad news is that the tannins have been released and long lagering is usually required for them to drop out. Suggestion for obtaining the thinnest part of the mash for lauter decoction: Use a large kitchen sieve as a stuykmanden i.e. push it down into the mash and ladle out the liquid. In # 1940 Bruce Taber asked about checking on sparge runoff: My procedure is to collect a sample jar full of runoff and immediately place it in a 1 litre Erlenmyer flask which is full of water with a couple of ice cubes. Let it sit for a minute or 2, pull it out and swirl it around and then let it sit again. Repeat until it is close to the proper temperature for your hydrometer. With a little experience you will be able to get close enough to be able to tell by the feel alone. As you will be measuring low gravities it is not critical that the temperature be exact. When the sample is cool, measure and record the gravity. Then check the pH. Yes, the test strips are accurate to within half a pH unit or better and the problems of error due to wort color are minimized because the wort is nearly clear towards the end of the sparge. As for acidification: it may or may not be necessary depending on the alkalinity of your water and the nature of the beer you are making. The worst case is where you have only pale malts and alkaline water. Measure pH and gravity during a sparge when making your palest beer. If pH gets above 5 before the desired runoff gravity is reached you should either terminate runoff sooner (and lose sugar) or acidify the sparge water. The usual choices for this are phosphoric acid or lactic acid which are generally though to be more flavor neutral than citric acid, tartaric acid or acid blend (which is a mix of these two). The sparge water pH should be adjusted to somewhere between 5 and 6. The amount of acid required to do this depends on the type of acid and the buffering capacity (alkalinity) of the water. Proceded very slowly when adding the acid i.e. a ml or 2 at a time with a measurement after each addition. It's probably a good idea to experiment off line, i.e. on a day other than brew day, by preparing a volume of sparge water as you would for brewing and doing the acid addition. It is important to heat the test water as you heat the actual sparge water because the heating process may precipitate temporary hardness and lower alkalinity. On the other hand, adding acid and stirring will cause precipitated carbonate to redissolve so that it is definitely best to decant your sparge water if you notice precipitation when it is heated. A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore! ajdel at interramp.com Return to table of contents
Date: 08 Dec 95 08:20:20 EST From: "Thomas A. Wideman" <75710.1511 at compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Dishwasher >An another subject. Does anybody have experience using the dishwasher (as >suggested by Dave Miller) to sterilize bottles? Do you use the full cycle or >just the heat cycle? If full cycle do you use detergent as if you were >washing dishes? I have had great luck using the dishwasher. I run it through the full cycle, but I only add detergent to the "pre-rinse" cup, not the one with the swing-out door, and normally only 1/2 the regular amount. That way, I get one wash cycle, and lots of rinse cycles. I also use the Water Heat and Heated Dry options. When doing the above, the bottles are normally clean already; I just do it to sanitize them. When drinking from bottles, I rinse thoroughly after decanting, leaving hot water stand in them until loading them into the dishwasher. I then wash them in the dishwasher with the regular dishes, then set them aside. When ready to bottle, I gather them together and do as described above. A final note -- labels. I apply paper labels, printed on my laser printer, to the bottles with Avery-Denison glue sticks (you know those paste sticks). A quick swipe down each side of the label (none in the middle), then onto the bottle. That way, after decanting, I can also simply peel the label off, leaving two slight glue trails on the bottle. which wash off in the dishwasher easily. Cheers, Tom Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 08:42:34 -0500 From: DONBREW at aol.com Subject: kettle Scott sez: >My thought is to make a large circular manifold that runs along the >top of the bottom bowl of the keg. Whirlpool, let things settle, >and everything should proceed smoothly, yes? (This was suggested >a while back by someone whose name I forget, and sounds like a good >idea to me.) The 3" tube is way too short. What I have done: 1. turn the keg upside down, then wack away at the center of the "bowl" to invert it. Thus giving a ring around a bump on the inside. (20/20 hindsight suggests to use an autobody type "hammer & dolly" to form the new configuration). 2. make a large circular manifold (1/2" O.D.) to fit in the "ring" 3. let the wort sit for 3-5 min before running it into the CF chiller, this to let the hops settle. No whirlpool is needeed. 4. if you use only whole hops, they will act as a very nice filter. When I am done there is almost no liquid left, only what is absorbed in the hops/break, and almost all of the break is left on top of the hops. From what I have read, I believe that the inversion (cone) on the bottom of the keg would also give a better boil if you are using an external burner. I use an electric water heater element, so in my case it gives less dead space at the bottom. Don Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 95 09:03 EST From: cdp at chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard) Subject: Foam-in-a-can korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) in 1902 asked: >Given that the lids on most coolers are simply hollow plastic and a source >of a lot of heat loss, has anyone used that "styrofoam in a can" stuff >to fill a cooler lid? Any problems? Long ago, I saw a post (in HBD?) regarding that. Poster said he used several shots to fill the lid. I've only used the stuff for filling cracks. It swells a lot as it cures. I *guess* it could perhaps deform the lid if you tried to fill the lid with one shot and foam extruded through the hole in the lid you made the shot through hardened before the rest of the stuff expanded fully. My mash/sparge tun is an insulated a 6.5 gal. plastic pail. The lid (& base too) is 2 layers of 3/4" thick rigid beaded foam. Since beads would flake off readily and fall into the mash (I don't think it's got much in the way of potiential fermentables <g>), I cut 2 disks from alunimum flashing, fastened them to either sides of the top with double sided tape and put aluminum duct tape (not the cloth stuff- doesn't hold up as well) around the edges. It laps over and seals against the the flashing also. It's easy to make and the aluminum skins reflect radiant heat back towards the wort. Also, it's easy to make holes in it for sparge water hoses, stirrers and such. The only downside (minor IMHO) is that the tape conducts a bit of heat around the sides of the lid. C.D. Pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 08:03:58 -0500 From: freigang at tcpcs2.dnet.etn.com Subject: Fermentation activity of lagers Question, Now that winter has set in here in Kalamazoo, MI I decided to take advantage of the cold and brew my first lager (extract and specialty grains). OG was at 1.060 and it has been in the primary at 45 deg. for almost a week. Although the sediment has dropped and a decent sized yeast cake has formed on the bottom, there appears to be no real active fermentation taking place (as you would typically see with an Ale). I will check the S.G. this weekend when I rack to the secondary, but in the meantime I would like to know if this is normal fermentation activity for a lager. Private Email is fine. Thanks for your help Al Freigang Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 95 09:08:05 CST From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu> Subject: catabolite repression In Digest #1903: awalsh at crl.com.au (Andy Walsh) says: >This is kind of interesting. >I have had some trouble with stuck fermentations when making Belgian style >ales using glucose and Wyeast 3944 (wit yeast), which is often recommended >for ale styles as well as wit (I do not recommend this one after some >expermentation - it seems easily shocked into catabolite repression by >glucose). It isn't clear to me what you're saying here. Can you please expound on this? Thomas T. Aquilla, Ph.D. .***. .***. .***. .***. Molecular Physiology and Biophysics * | | | * * | | | * | | | * University of Vermont Medical College* * | | | * * | | | * * | | | * Health Science Complex, Given E-201* * | | | * | | | * * | | | * Burlington, VT 05405-0068 '***' '***' '***' '***' Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 95 09:55:28 CST From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu> Subject: stuck run-off In Digest #1904: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) says: Subject: water loss/set mashes/CO2 in solution/DMS OOPS!/decoctions >A few days ago someone blamed a set mash on too much water in the tun >"compacting the grain bed." I don't believe this to be true either. >As an exercise, I pose this question: Have any of you had a set mash >(stuck runoff) while using a non-adjustable (one less variable) JSP >MaltMill(tm) on an all-barleymalt mash? My guess is no. Yes, I have (I have witnesses too!). I made an O'fest a while back that stuck like a pig. It was 100% barley malt and I used an EZ-Masher (they 'never' stick) in a GOTT cooler! The malt was crushed in a fixed MaltMill, as usual. I did three decoctions (I seem to recall?), including both B-glucan and protein rests. This mash included about 12 pounds (or more?) of malt in a 5 gallon GOTT, which was really pushing the limits of this tun. The liquid level was at the very top and the grain-bed was over one foot deep. I attributed the stuck run-off to a highly compacted grain-bed. I tried everything to 'un-stick' it, but no luck. It was a real drag. Tracy in Vermont aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 95 14:51:42 UT From: "James Hojel" <JTroy at msn.com> Subject: Porter/Milds recipe I'm looking for some good all-grain recipes for Porters and Milds. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, JTH Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 10:13:04 -0500 From: CCCEF.KHUIZING at capital.ge.com Subject: Re: DMS Not to nit pick, but in HBD 1903 Robert Bush writes : "You could boil the wort longer than usual, as this will diminish DMS". I don't believe this is actually the most effective way to reduce DMS. Remember DMS is created throughout the boil from the precursor SMM, with heat as the main catalyst. Therefore, when you stop boiling, DMS is still being produced. I am not sure at what point the reaction is slowed to a negligible level, but as Al K. stated in HBD 1902, rapid cooling of the wort is the best way to keep DMS to a minimum, assuming no fermentation infections. Keith Huizinga cccef.khuizing at capital.ge.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 1995 00:00:00 From: Decker at rmtgvl.rmtinc.com, Robin E. <ROBIND at rmtgvl.rmtinc.com> Subject: Brewpubs in Greenville, SC Clay mentioned this subject in HBD #1904 There are three Brewpubs in Greenville. They have all opened this year. First to open was the Chicago Brew Pub on Woodruff Road. It was started by a successful restauranteur here in Greenville, so you would expect at least the food & service to be above average. Unfortunately, tain't so. Also, a myriad of problems in the brewhouse, including switching yeasts and switching brewmasters, has prevented their beer from being all it could be. The good news is, they regularly host the new "SCHOLARS" homebrew club meetings, and they are right across the street from Greenville's only full-line homebrew supply shop, Biermeisters. Biermeisters opened ~6 weeks ago, and is already hosting brewing seminars, which are being taught by the local brewpub & microbrewery brewmasters (except Chicago's <g>). They also have over 205 beers in stock & almost none of the "big 3". The 2nd brewpub opened was Blue Ridge Brewing Co. I give them high marks in all categories. They have an outstanding hefe weizen, their food is Real Food, with lots of game...think nouvelle cuisine goes rustic...their service is excellent, and the atmosphere is true "pub". The rest of their beers are good quality, if a touch conservative. Blue Ridge is located on Main Street across from the Hyatt hotel. The latest offering is the Downtown Brewing Company on Coffee Street. This is a short 2 blocks from Blue Ridge, which makes for an interesting night on the town. I haven't personally tried the food, but I have heard rave reviews.... The beer is the best of the three brewpubs. Brewmaster Ben Pierson has studied at various breweries in Germany, as well as helping to start-up several brewpubs in the states. He even has an open fermenter for special brews.... The porter that will hit the serving tanks in January is excellent...the best he's offered so far, but remember, DBC is only a couple of months old. We were lucky enough to get a personal tour and tasting, guided by Ben, and believe me, his brewhouse is "a beautiful thing". So if any of you are within 100 miles of Greenville, come on out and support the craft brew industry...it's well worth the effort. And don't forget to look for the Reedy River Brewery's products, scheduled to hit the stores in January (it's already on tap at some local restaurants/pubs), and the Highland Brewery's 22 oz. bottles (from Asheville, NC), which are already available. Happy hunting, Goldings Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 95 10:29:21 EST From: John DeCarlo <jdecarlo at homebrew.mitre.org> Subject: Re: Quality Craig Amundsen writes: > When thinking about quality I like to keep the words accuracy and >precision in mind. A quality beer is one that is produced in an accurate >and precise manner. This is interesting because I was also thinking about weighing in on quality, but had refrained until now <g>. Most people use the term "quality" to mean (Random House Dictionary 4.) "high grade; great excellence". So a beer of high quality (or just a quality beer) is one that is of high grade or is excellent. This is very different from your definition, and accords with how people use the word. And gets back to whether you measure excellence by what you like or not. Most people can agree that _War_and_Peace_ is an excellent novel of high quality, but may not ever want to read it. >[...] So, a quality beer is one that tastes the >same from one batch to another and that taste is exactly the taste that is >desired. I would argue that this is exactly wrong. High quality can also mean that it is hand-crafted and every one is different--mass-produced so every one is the same can result in very poor quality stuff. Homebrewers can therefore make very high quality beers, with high quality ingredients and procedures and equipment. I would also argue that Bud is high quality lawnmower beer, though I don't think that the lawnmower beer style is all that interesting. John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 95 07:56:54 EST From: gravels at TRISMTP.npt.nuwc.navy.mil Subject: Malt Dextrin Hi All, I picked up aome powdered malt dextrin at the homebrew supply store last night. I've heard that it will add body to your brew. The question is, how do I use it? I have a batch in the secondary right now, can I mix some dextrin on the stove with some water, boil it to kill any nasties, cool it, and then add it back to the beer when I keg? Am I way off base with this procedure? What is the proper procedure, and what is the proper amount? I know the amount will vary depending on how much 'mouth feel' you want, but what is an average amount, 1 tsp, 1 Tbs or 1 cup? TIA. Steve Gravel Newport, Rhode Island gravels at TRISMTP.npt.nuwc.navy.mil "Homebrew, it's not just a hobby it's an adventure!" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 08:45:38 -0500 (EST) From: Scott Bukofsky <scott.bukofsky at yale.edu> Subject: Stout High FG I have a stout that finished with a higher final gravity than I expected. details: 3 lb Schreier two-row 1 lb Aromatic Malt 1/2 lb roasted barley 1/2 lb black patent 1/4 lb flaked barley 3.5 lb M&F dark DME 1 oz Bullion hops 60 min 1 oz Willamette 30 min Wyeast Irish Mashed grains at 155 deg. O.G. 1.063 I pitched a very active starter, and had visible fermentation within 3 hours. The next morning, the fermentation was furious, and my fermometer read 75 deg. Concerned that the temp was too high, I draped some wet towels over the carboy. The next day the temp was 64 degreres, and the yeast looked pretty sluggish. After the 3rd day, all activity stopped, I racked to secondary with a gravity of 1.017. Is this a typical attenuation for Wyeast Irish, or could I have shocked the yeast somehow? My thought is that an ale yeast shouldn't mind the 64 degrees, but I may be wrong. I also hoped that by racking I might awaken the yeast again, but this has not worked. Is there a solution to this too sweet stout? Should I bother trying to add more yeast? Any help would be appreciated. -Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 08:10:56 -0800 From: Kris Thomas Messenger <kmesseng at slonet.org> Subject: Re: Bottle carbonation The recent thread on priming and how long it takes for priming to occur included the following quote from Dave Miller's book: >O.K., here's the direct quote from _Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide_ , >Chapter 25, p. 218: > >"In practice, saturation is not always easy to achieve. For example, >with bottle-conditioned beer, the priming sugar will ferment in 24 >hours or less. At the end of that time, all of the gas is in the bottle. >However, most of it is in the headspace, because it just rises through >the beer as it is produced. It can take weeks for the headspace gas >to dissolve into the beer until, finally, equilibrium is achieved and >the beer is saturated." A few people thought this makes sense. The approximately 60 or so batches I have brewed do not understand this principle as none of them have acted in this way. Here's how it works in my beer. <<<IF>>> the sugar is fermented in 24 hours, then the CO2 is in the bottle. There are only two places for it to be: in the beer or in the headspace. If it's in the beer then the beer is carbonated. But we all know that our beer takes in general 3 to 4 weeks to come up to full carbonation. So it isn't in the beer. Therefore it MUST be in the headspace. If it is in the headspace, then 2 or 3 days later, you could open a bottle of flat beer but hear an enormous hisssssssssss as all that CO2 rushes out. Sorry. This does not happen. After about a week, open one and it hisses a little. After two weeks, the hiss is more prominent. And after one month, there is a good hiss and the beer is indeed carbonated. I firmly believe the fermentation process to follow <more or less> an exponential decay curve. At least that's how mine seems to work. After the fermenting gets going, it peaks and begins a long subsiding. Bubbles come up slower and slower. Take gravity readings in your beer. You will see that the gravity gets lower and lower over a long time; not in "24" hours. The real point is that it does take nearly a month or so to get your beer carbonated so if this is how you like your beer, I can only say: Brew early and brew often! Cheers. - ---------------------------------------------------------------- Tom Messenger, Los Osos, California, USA *** kmesseng at slonet.org - ---------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 11:39:37 -0500 (EST) From: Bill Pemberton <wfp5p at tigger.itc.virginia.edu> Subject: Re: counter-flow chillers Ronald Moucka asks about counter-flow chillers. I've got got copper in garden hose chiller that I made and I don't find it to be cumbersom at all. It is a little bit larger then the PVC type that I've seen, but not so much so that it is hard to deal with. The efficiency that I get is great -- it takes about 6 minutes to transfer 5 gallons from boiling to tap water temp. - -- Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 1995 12:32:34 -0500 From: Jim Grady <grady at an.hp.com> Subject: The great bubble debate Regarding the current discussion about whether the bottle conditioning time is spent producing or dissolving CO2, I am going to jump in on Kelly's side here. When I open a bottle that hasn't conditioned long enough, there is little or no sound of gas escaping as the bottle is opened. This means that the CO2 is not all there under high pressure waiting for a couple of weeks to pass to dissolve into the beer. The beer is flat BTW. As time goes on and the beer gets carbonated, the sound of gas escaping as the bottle is opened increases. - ------------ On another note, here is a beer judging tip for the cold & flu season: Don't evaluate your beer after having a mentholated cough drop. It might be judged too harshly. (You probably knew that already.) - -- Jim Grady |"Under the sod and under the trees grady at an.hp.com | lies the body of Jonathan Pease. Hewlett-Packard Medical Products Group | He's not here, there's only the pod: Andover, MA | Pease shelled out and went to God" | Tombstone in Nantucket, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 12:31:55 -0500 From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt) Subject: bottle conditioning I have read with interest the several posts on how long it takes for bottle fermentation, and the controversy over whether CO2 produced in the bottle goes directly into solution, or into the headspace to be dissolved later. I have no scientific evidence, but I can give you some easily verified anecdotal evidence. I use PET bottles. Among their advantages is the ability to "feel" the carbonation level. Ever handle a plastic bottle of Coke? It's like a rock. Crack it open and immediately close it tight - only a fraction of the dissolved CO2 has escaped, but the pressure in the headspace is reduced to near atmospheric. The bottle is now much softer. I feel my bottles from time to time after bottling to check the progress of carbonation. I have no metrics, but although I can usually detect a rise in pressure within a day or two, it takes 10-15 days for the bottles to get as hard as they are going to. During this period, I conclude, the head space pressure is going up, not down. I believe that CO2 being produced in the bottle goes into solution, with some portion outgassing into the head space to reach equilibrium. Rolland Everitt af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 12:50:47 -0500 From: cmcgee at hom.net (cmcgee) Subject: Strawberry Wheat I'm new to this list, so I thought I'd drop a recipe for a KILLER strawberry wheat beer that I've enjoyed immensely. "Fruit? In Beer? Yuck!" Well, that's what I said, too, before a friend gave me a Rasperry Wheat or ten to taste... (This is a kit beer recipe- email me if you want my all grain rendition.) STRAWBERRY (or whatever..) WHEAT 1 1/2 lbs honey 1 can Morgan's Wheat 1 1/2 lbs lt dried malt 2 oz Tettnangers (reduce if you don't like hoppy beers) 2 lbs fresh or frozen berries Irish moss Boil the honey, an ounce of the hops, & the Irish moss in some water 15 minutes. Add Morgan's kit malt and bring back to a boil. Add fruit. Lower heat. Steep at 150 degrees 20 minutes with the second half of the hops. That's it! Toss in some cold water & yeast and let 'er go. After 4 days, rack off into a secondary fermenter, leaving the fruit behind in the primary. Scoff if you may, but this is a killer brew. I've had the best luck with strawberry wheat (and one batch in particular...!), but I've tasted a couple heavenly rasperry wheats too. Cherry wheats never seem to be too good for whatever reason. If you have good luck with a different kind of fruit, please let me know. Original credit for an earlier version of this recipe goes to Mike Raimey, Braumeister Ekstrordinar. Enjoy! --C Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Dec 1995 12:56:55 -0500 (EST) From: GKING <GKING at ARSERRC.Gov> Subject: accuracy/precision, quality In Homebrew Digest #1904 Craig Amundsen <amundsen at biosci.cbs.umn.edu> writes: >When thinking about quality I like to keep the words accuracy and precision >in mind. A quality beer is one that is produced in an accurate and precise >manner. In the world o' science, a measurement is accurate if you get the >same number when you repeat the measurement. The precision of a measurement >is how many units (furlongs, hogsheads, microliters, etc) separate two >divisions on your measuring tool. Your definitions of accuracy and precision are not that accurate (pun semi-intended). Precision has to do with how close together repeated measurements are to one another (the closer together, the higher the precision). Accuracy has to do with how close the measured value is to the *actual* value. Thus it is possible to measure something (e.g. specific gravity) with a high degree of precision, yet with poor accuracy because one's measuring instrument (e.g. hydrometer) has not been calibrated correctly. >So, a quality beer is one that tastes the >same from one batch to another and that taste is exactly the taste that is >desired. I agree with this, but I would stress the "Does it have the desired taste?" aspect over the "Does it taste exactly the same as the last batch?" aspect. >Budmilloormolatts >have managed to convince the beer drinking public that quality means good >not repeatable. Don't you mean just the opposite here, Craig? Greg King gking at arserrc.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 12:55:00 -0500 (EST) From: Eugene Sonn <sonn at oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: stone-age lagering Holiday Greetings to the HBD, I'm seeking information from people who have experience lagering in an uncontrolled, yet cold environment. I have an attic which is only slightly warmer than the outside temperatures and would like to start lagering up there. Any advice or experiences would be appreciated. Please send private e-mail and I'll post the findings to the HBD. Thanks in advance, Eugene Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1906, 12/11/95