HOMEBREW Digest #1913 Tue 19 December 1995

Digest #1912 Digest #1914

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Mugwort information - for what it's worth ("Jim Fitzgerald")
  solder vs epoxy (Carrick Legrismith)
  "diacetyl rest" - Noonan vs. Miller ("Sharon A. Ritter")
  Carbonation in bottles ("Dave Draper")
  Last minute Xmas Ale; BFC 1.3 (Derrick Pohl)
  Hydrometer formula (Robert Bush)
  wierd recipes (Douglas Thomas)
  BBC IPO (IHomeBrew)
  Re: Oak Chips in IPA -  and wooden barrels in general (Steve Alexander)
  Self-heating Wort (John W. Braue, III)
  Kvass, Etomology of (John W. Braue, III)
  Frozen glasses, O2 caps (PatrickM50)
  Couter pressure bottler (J. Todd Hoopes)
  Sake (J. Todd Hoopes)
  HSA from RIMS Cavitation & Sparge Heater Info (C.D. Pritchard)
  Insulation for Mash Vessel (Evan Kraus)
  Re: Flushing and drying a CFWC/Stuck Bock/Foam (Bob McCowan)
  Brewpub book ("Thomas A. Wideman")
  source for parts (DONBREW)
  Hops Toxicity in Dogs ("Michael R. Swan")
  CO2 Solubility, Saturation (Tom_Williams_at_RAY__REC__ATLANTA)
  Crabtree effect ("Tracy Aquilla")
  use of pressure cooker (Waverly)" <kbooth at isd.ingham.k12.mi.us>
  Converted brew pot (JAWeld)
  lagers/braggots (Ray Ownby)
  Blue Moon - Belgian White (Mike Morgan)
  Blue Moon - Belgian White (Mike Morgan)
  Steam Heater Boiler ("WEISEL, KARL R.")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 12:56:21 -0700 From: "Jim Fitzgerald" <jimfitz at netcom.netcom.com> Subject: Mugwort information - for what it's worth Thanks to all that responed to my post asking about mugwort. There are a couple of responses that I would like to include here in the HBD, especially for those who are brewing with it. #################### On 13 Dec 95 at 9:03, Mike White wrote: Mugwort is the common name of the plant Artemisia Vulgaris. It is also sometimes called California Mugwort. Other common names include: Green ginger, Fat hen, Gall wood, Grey bulwand, Docko, Old uncle harry, Sailor's/poor man's tobacco, Smotherwood, and many variations on muggert, and muggins. Sometimes it is called Felon herb. The Irish know it as Muggert kail..which suggests use as a vegetable. Europeans call it St John's herb, Mother of herbs, or Motherwort....it is one of the sacred midsummer herbs, HISTORY; most medieval herbal books call this herb Motherwort, ie. herb for the womb. Mugwort is a Saxon name, refering either to flavouring beer or keeping off midges or moths. The latin name for Mugwort is derived from Artemis who is also known as Diana, the virgin moon goddess, the hunter. PLACES; Northern europe, possibly native in Canada and eastern USA. Wasteland, hedgerows and waysides on a variety of soils, but prefers it well drained and especially likes waysides. CONSTITUENTS; bitter sesqueterpenes, essential oils include thujone, resin, flavonoids, tannins, inulin in its roots. QUALITIES; a gentle aromatic bitter, warm and dry. Mugwort is a relative of Absinth (Wormwood), Tarragon, and the Sagebrush common to the American west. It is known as the mildest member of this family. I have been unable to acquire a photo or a drawing of this plant. According to one dictionary the plant has small greenish-yellow flowers. You may have trouble BUYING this herb in the U.S. Although anyone who knows what it looks like can presumeably pick it on any roadside or field, it is a medicinal herb that falls through the cracks in the USDA/FDA drug/food labeling rules. It is not an herb that is on the FDA's G.R.A.S. list (that is the list of herbs Generally Recognized As Safe for human use.) Benzoin which is also in your recipie IS on the G.R.A.S. list as well as chamomile, dandelion, and marshmallow. So while Benzoin can be sold as food, mugwort cannot. Neither has mugwort been approved for sale as a drug due to the millions of dollars and years if research required to have it approved by the FDA. You may be able to find it sold somewhere as a "food additive." A label which is used to loosely comply with FDA labeling requirements. ################### On 13 Dec 95 at 8:13, Douglas Thomas wrote: Mugwort is an artemisia (like tarragon) that has hallucinagenic (SP?) and euphoric alkaloids in it. It is one of the two active ingredients in "classic" absinthe. The other ingredient being wormwood, another artemisia with similar properties. Hops are related distantly to marijuana, the lupilin and other alkaloids in it having euphoric, narcotic effects. All of these alkaloids can be taken in through the nose, skin and lungs, so have a blast and have good dreams. One word of caution. When any artemisia is fermented it has extreme liver and kidney destroying properties as well as being quite illegal. Also, when smoked, it oxidisescreates a chemical which will give you a buzz, but also clog and destroy the aveoli of the lungs about 5 times faster than cigs or marijuana, so just be careful with it. The dream pillow (skin nose and lung intake) seems to have no adverse effect, the skin having some way to filter out most of the dangerous ingredients. Also, the dream pillow is meant to be used for a month or two, whereas drinking or smokoing it does it all at once, so the body has time to deal with it. Sorry if this all sounds condesending, but I live in an area where mugwort grows wild and I have seen too many people hear about it, go out and make absinthe and end up on dialisis at age 50 or hack their lungs out or get bronchitis on a permanent basis. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 95 15:57 EST From: Carrick Legrismith <0007406335 at mcimail.com> Subject: solder vs epoxy - -- [ From: Carrick Legrismith * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] -- I am building a RIMS system and have read in the "Brewcraft, Ltd." catalog that soldered joints can cause haze in finished beer. Has anyone heard or experienced this before? What is the max wattage heating element that I should run in it? I have found a temperature controler in an old microbiology incubator that should be able to handle 1000 watts on the high end with some J. rigging , but will that be too much? Carrick Legrismith (740-6335 at mcimail.com) **************************************************** "Beam me up Spock, I've drunk their beer and there isn't any intelligent life here" Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Dec 95 17:36:00 EST From: "Sharon A. Ritter" <102446.3717 at compuserve.com> Subject: "diacetyl rest" - Noonan vs. Miller I've been reading Greg Noonan's "Brewing Lager Beer" and noticed that his description of "diacetyl rest" is completely different than Dave Miller's in "The Complete Handbook of Home Brewing". Miller writes: "One interesting features of most lager fermentations is that the beer is never racked until diacetyl is reduced below taste threshold...If necessary, the temperature is lowered to about 35 degrees F. for a 'diacetyl rest' of 2 to 3 days after the fermentation is over. The idea behind the low temperature is to forestall autolysis. Diacetyl reduction tends to lag behind fermentation." (page 158) Noonan writes (about the SAME subject): "It is relatively common in modern fermentation cycles to raise the temperature of the post-kraeusen beer to 52 degrees F., and to hold that temperature for 2 to 7 days. This is the diacetyl rest. It encourages oxidation of yeast-excreted acetohydroxy acids to vicinal diketones, and it reinvigorates the yeast culture so that it metabolizes diacetyl, thereby removing it from solution." (page 156) Will the real Diacetyl Rest please stand up! For all you chemist/brewers out there, who's correct and is this "rest" worth worrying about (or using in one's lager brewing process)? Dan Ritter in Grangeville, Idaho 102446.3717 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 1995 10:28:12 +10 From: "Dave Draper" <david.draper at mq.edu.au> Subject: Carbonation in bottles Dear Friends, sorry to contribute to a long thread that, undoubtedly, many wish would die. But I'll be brief ("yeah, right"--I can hear you all from here!). Back when I used to prime bottles with dry sugar individually, in the first days after bottling I often observed the bubbles formed from the conditioning process rising through the beer (yes, I sat there and stared at my bottles of beer). At first, the bubbles produced at the bottom (where the sugar was) would progressively shrink as they rose through the bottle, and would not reach the surface. As days passed, they would get closer and closer to making it to the top, and then finally succeed. This supports Dave Harsh's point in #1911 about the CO2 bubbles being able to equilibrate with the beer. However, in batch-primed beer there is not this non-uniform distribution--the sugar is mixed in to the beer. So initially-formed CO2 does not necessarily have to travel the length of the bottle. Don't know whether this observation can help decide whether Dave Miller's contentious idea is right; my intuition says he must be mistaken. Cheers, Dave in Sydney "Yeast are forgiving unless you really insult them." ---Dan McConnell - --- *************************************************************************** David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia Email: david.draper at mq.edu.au Home page: http://www.ocs.mq.edu.au/~ddraper ...I'm not from here, I just live here... Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 15:34:32 -0800 From: pohl at unixg.ubc.ca (Derrick Pohl) Subject: Last minute Xmas Ale; BFC 1.3 I've got a Kolsch (turned out a bit too dark, actually, due to my homebrew shop selling me so-called 10 deg L crystal that I am now convinced was really a lot darker, maybe 40 deg L) in the secondary, almost ready to bottle. I'm wondering if I can turn it into a last-minute Xmas Ale by just simmering some spices in hot water to make a strong spice tea and adding this to the secondary a few days before bottling. Suggestions? Experience? Also, Greg Douhan <gdouhan at wsunix.wsu.edu> asked: > Has anybody out there used THE BEER FORMULA CALCULATOR 1.3 by >Carlo Fusco. Yes, I've used Beer Formula Calculator 1.3 for the past half dozen or so batches, and I find it very useful for maintaining consistency across brews and for calculating exactly how to change things like IBUs and deg's Loviblond. However, it doesn't have fields for entering mashing info - temperatures, times, how much water added, etc. - but it would be easy to add this yourself, since there's no calculations involved, just recording the numbers. One thing that I found out by e-mailing Fusco (& he's good about responding) - the gallons are U.S. gallons, not Imperial. There is a new version available, 2.0, that is metric and provides conversion from U.S. measures. It also has some nifty new fields and calculations, but still nothing for the mashing info. Both versions are available at <ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer/programs/>. Derrick Pohl <pohl at unixg.ubc.ca> Vancouver, B.C., Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 1995 01:16:25 +0100 From: bush at shbf.se (Robert Bush) Subject: Hydrometer formula In #1907, I wrote: >It would be a lot easier to have a formula for this. Anyone for maths out >there? And in #1910 Tim Fields answered: >> Here is the formula I use. I hope someone will jump in if it is "less >> than pure": >> ((((Farenheit temp - 60)/10)*.0025)+hydrometer reading). for example, >> adjusting a reading of 1.050 at 75F: >> (((75F - 60)/10)*.0025) + 1.050) >> = (((15/10)*.0025)+1.050) >> = (1.5*.0025)+1.050 >> = .00375+1.050 >> = 1.053 rounded. Thanks Tim, I'll try it! Two questions: Can anyone transform this formula to be used with the Celcius scale? Is your hydrometer calibrated at 15.6 degrees C or at 20 degrees C (whatever that is in F)? I think that would be neccesary to know. Robert ==================================== = WASSAIL! = = Robert Bush, Eskilstuna, SWEDEN = = E-mail: bush at shbf.se = ==================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 16:22:26 -0800 (PST) From: Douglas Thomas <thomasd at uchastings.edu> Subject: wierd recipes Here are some wierd recipes from "Fortunes in Formulas" by Gardner Hiscox= =20 first publishe 1900 with earlier publications of parts of this book. =20 Ginger ale Lemons, large-------6 ginger, bruised-----3 ounces sugar---------------6 cups yeast---------------1/4 cake boiling water-------4 gallons water---------------enough to five gallons Slice lemons into large earthenware vessel removing teh seed. Addginger,= =20 sugar and boiling water. When the mxture is coold to lukewarm, add yeast= =20 in water. Cover for 24 hours at end of time cork securely. Ginger Beer White sugar-----------1/4 # honey-----------------1/4 # bruised ginger--------5 ounces lemon juice-----------to taste water-----------------4 1/2 gallon boil ginger in 3 quarts of water for half hour, add lemon juice and honey= =20 and the rest of the water. Strain all this and when cold add quarter of=20 the white of an egg and a teaspoonful of essence of lemon. Let stand 4=20 days before bottling. =20 ginger beer 2 brown sugar----------2 # boiling water--------2 gallons cream of tartar------1 ounce bruised ginger-------2 ounces infuse ginger in boiling water add the sugar adn cream of tartar: when=20 lukewarm strain then add half pint of good quality yeast. let stand the=20 nigh and then add one lemon=CAand egg white to fine. Lemon beer boiling water---------1 gallon lemon sliced----------1 ginger bruised--------1 ounce yeast-----------------1 teacupful sugar-----------------1 pound let stand for 20hours and it is ready to bottle braga About 35 parts of crushed millet, to which a little wheat flour is added=20 are placed in a large kettle. On this about 400 partsof water are=20 poured. The misture is stirred well and boild for 3 hours. After=20 settling for 1 hour the lost water is revewed and the boiling continued=20 for another 1- hours. a viscous mass remains in the kettle, which=20 substance is pread upon large tables to cool. After it is perfectly=20 cool, it is stirred with water in a wooden trough and left to ferment for= =20 8 hours. This pulp is sifted mixed with a little water and after and=20 hour the braga is ready for sale. The taste is alitlle sweetish at first= =20 but=CAbecomes more and more sourih in time. Fermentation begins only in=20 the trough. =20 Scotch beer=20 Add 1 peck malt to 4 gallons of boiling water and let it mash for 8=20 hours, and then strain, and in the strained liquor boil hops-----------------4 ounces-4 ounces coriander seeds------1 ounce honey----------------1 pound orange peel----------2 ounces bruised giner--------1 ounce hop bitter corianderseed------------2 ounces orange peel--------------4 ounce ginger-------------------1 ounce gentian root-------------1/2 ounce boil in 5 gallons water for half an hour then strain and put innto the=20 ligour 4 ounces of hops and 3 pounds of sugar, and simmer for 15 minutes=20 more. Add sufficient yeast and bottle when ready. sarsaparilla beer sarsaparilla 1 pound 1/4 pound guaiacum bark guaiacum wood and licorice root, 2 ounces aniseed 1 1/2 ounces mezereon root bark 1 ounce cloves 1/4 ounce sugar 3 1/2 pounds hot water 9 quarts mix in stone jar and keep in a warm room no yeast is used and this is used a dosage at night or up to 3=20 tumblerfuls a day absinthe oil of wormwood---96 drops oil of star anise-72 drops oil of aniseed----48 drops oil of coriander--48 drops oil of fennel-----48 drops oil of angelica root--------------24 drops orl of thyme------24 drops alcohol (pure)----162 fluid ounces distilled water---30 fluid ounces I will post more if people are interested in benedictine, chartreuse, may= =20 bowl, maraschino,bitters, hostetter bitters, weiss beer, spruce beer (2=20 recipes) treacle beer, british champagne, american champagne, champagne=20 cider, package pop, and I think that is it. hope that satisfies ya'll for a little bit Doug thomas Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 1995 00:15:43 -0500 From: IHomeBrew at aol.com Subject: BBC IPO Has anyone heard back from the Boston Brewing Co. about their stock IPO? I ask because I haven't heard anything while a friend of mine said he got his check returned to him several weeks ago. My check hasn't cleared, either. TIA, Clark Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 1995 00:16:26 -0500 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: Re: Oak Chips in IPA - and wooden barrels in general I have to disagree with the statement that european white oak imparts no flavor. French white oak barrels are widely used to hold wine, and a premium price, on the order of $500 per barrel is paid for these specifically because of the vanilla flavors and tannins they add. American white oak is also widely used and prized for a similar flavor profile. Red oak is never used for barrels simply because the pore size of the wood is so large that evaporation is a serious problem. If you've ever been around a red oak tree being cut down you will realize from the pungent smell alone that red oak is VERY tannic. Wine barrels have their interior charred by open flames before they are used. Interestingly bourbon is made with hard maple charcoal and oak barrel aging, and one of the two clearly produces a strong vanilla note. I don't know anything about the historical processing of barrels for IPAs but it is clearly possible that their interiors were charred before use. Incidentally 'Malting and Brewing Science' discusses charcoal as an effective fining agent for beers. Perhaps the wood chips should be toasted before use. Anyone interested in experimenting ? Stevea Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 13:39:51 From: braue at ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III) Subject: Self-heating Wort troat at one.net (Todd W. Roat) writes: >Subject: Is it true that..... > >Hey science guys...... Someone told me that the fermenting beer in a carboy >is several degrees warmer than the air outside the carboy because the >chemical reactions taking place within the carboy during fermentation >generate heat/energy. In a 60 degree house during Winter, could one put >some faith in this "theory" and assume the fermenting ale to be at 65 >degrees? Im hoping what they meant by "several" degrees warmer means about >5 degrees. Any brewers doing open fermentations able to test this theory or >is the theory wrong to begin with? How much warmer will depend on the activity in the wort. I would put it at 3 - 8 deg F depending on the level of activity (empirical measurements made during brewing). If you're relying on this to keep the wort at a suitable fermentation temperature, remember that it will occur only *after* the fermentation has become vigorous; i.e., don't expect an ale yeast that goes dormant at 60 deg F to *ever* begin fermentation in a wort of that temperature, although the activity in the wort may *maintain* a higher temperature if the ambient temperature after fermentation starts. - -- John W. Braue, III braue at ratsnest.win.net I prefer both my beer and my coffee to be dark and bitter; that way, they fit in so well with the rest of my life. I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 13:09:46 From: braue at ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III) Subject: Kvass, Etomology of Kris Thomas Messenger <kmesseng at slonet.org> writes: >Meanwhile, Rolland wrote: > >>Douglas Thomas gave us the ingredients for a Kwass recipe. It >>sounds like interesting stuff, but totally unlike the beer-like >>beverage that has been served to me by Russian friends. Their >>kwass was made from dark rye bread, not mare's milk. It was so >>much like beer that I think it must properly be considered a >>type of beer. Does anyone know anything this type of kwass? >> >>Rolland Everitt >>af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov > >I recently saw somewhere on the net reference to an old Russian recipe for >"Kvass" - whether the 'v' is used in place of the 'w' makes any difference, >I don't know. Anyway, it listed as ingredients just rye bread, sugar, yeast >and water. And it was reported to taste like 'beer'. > "Kvass" ("kwass" is some ignorant West European's mistransliteration, possibly via German -- German "w" is pronounced like English "v:) is a traditional Russian beer, made from rye or barley. The rye-bread mutation is a traditional prison variation, since lifers find it difficult to get quality malts. The name of "kvass" for a fermented mare's-milk beverage is probably some ignorant West European's confusion between the two. The milk beverage is called "kumiss" (from Turkish *kumyz*). I've told that kumiss tastes like a light ale, and that kvass is vile. I've never had either. - -- John W. Braue, III braue at ratsnest.win.net I prefer both my beer and my coffee to be dark and bitter; that way, they fit in so well with the rest of my life. I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 1995 13:20:33 -0500 From: PatrickM50 at aol.com Subject: Frozen glasses, O2 caps John Parker says: << Just get yourself a cold glass from the freezer and fill it from your taps. Enjoy! >> It's my experience that using a frozen glass for anything but a low-flavor light-bodied lawnmower beer is detrimental to the flavors that I've tried hard to produce. I've heard the phenomenum referred to as "Shocking" the beer. Granted, I don't really know how the beer feels about it, but I was indeed shocked at what happened to a stout that I treated this way awhile back. Still drank it though. Mark Redman says: << I use oxygen absorbing caps, which clearly state "DO NOT WASH OR BOIL CAPS!" Well, I've always been one to follow directions, so I don't. This seems to go against what I have read, especially since you must turn the bottle upside down to activate the absorbing capabilities.>> My bag o' caps never said to turn the bottles upside down to activate the caps. Has anyone else come across this same info? Any cap manufacturers online? Are my caps ruined ;-O Hoppy Holidays, Pat Maloney (patrickm50 at aol.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 1995 17:22:38 -0500 From: hoopes at bscr.uga.edu (J. Todd Hoopes) Subject: Couter pressure bottler Does anyone out there know where I can order a counter pressure bottler at a reasonable price? ********************************************************************* Do unto others.. for given a reversal of situation they would surely do it unto you. J. Todd Hoopes <Hoopes at bscr.uga.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 09:22:00 +1000 From: nigelt at delm.tas.gov.au (Nigel Townsend) Subject: Re: SODIUM METABISULPHATE Hope that I have spelt it right, I'm not near my brewing references at the moment. I was briefly in conversation with a surgeon at a party last night and home brewing was raised as a topic of conversation. He asked me if I ever used sodium metabisulphite (SM) because he needed the business. It appears there are some thoughts in the medical profession that regular contact with SM can build up a reaction in the (human) body, leading to asthma, nasal polyps and other effects. I did not get the chance to find much more at that time. Has anyone else heard anything similar? Nigel Townsend Hobart, Tasmania Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 1995 17:14:58 -0500 From: hoopes at bscr.uga.edu (J. Todd Hoopes) Subject: Sake Just a note on sake. There are hundreds of sake brewers in Japan. Not just the big four (Asahi, Kirin, Suntory, Sapuro ). Also, sake is made with two different organism a yeast and a bacteria. I'm not sure if they are introduced at the same time or a specific stages. I'm also not sure of the strains. I'll try and find out exactly how its done. ********************************************************************* Do unto others.. for given a reversal of situation they would surely do it unto you. J. Todd Hoopes <Hoopes at bscr.uga.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 95 00:20 EST From: cdp at chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard) Subject: HSA from RIMS Cavitation & Sparge Heater Info Ray_Cooper at msn.com (Ray Cooper) posted: >I've read several articles cautioning against allowing cavitation to occur at >the pump in a RIMS system to prevent Hot Side Aeration of the mash liquor and >subsequent oxidation. Where does the _air_ (or O2) come from? As I >understand, cavitation is caused by "boiling" liquid at the low pressure side >of the pump impeller and that the only gas that should be there is H2O vapor. Ray's right on the mark! Every pump has a spec. known as required NPSH (net positive suction head, measured in psiA). Never seen this dataum published for the smallish pumps used with RIMSs. If the pressure at the suction inlet falls below the required NPSH, cavitation will occur and the pump performance will decrease. In severe cases, it sounds like gravel going through the pump. (The noise is from the collapse of the steam bubbles as they enter a higher pressure region in the pump.) I've witnessed not so severe cases on large pump installations where there was no untoward noise, but cavitation was occurring as evidenced by poor pump performance and pitted impellers. NPSH required also varies with temperature- my RIMS did OK at 130 degF, but, at 160 there was audible cavitation. Raising the tun (increasing the static pressure) solved the problem. Other design alternatives are to reduce the friction loss in the suction piping and/or reducing the flow. More pump poop for RIMSers: Arrange the pump and piping so that there's no air pockets or install a valve at the high point in the suction line to bleed the air. Air in the piping reduces flow. It's particuliarly bad to have air in the pump casing. My RIMS pump (and end-suction type) is mounted vertically with the suction inlet up for this reason. HSA is, perhaps, another consideration. Try to have at least 10 pipe diameters of straight piping directly in front of the pump suction inlet. Throttling valves go on the discharge side of the pump. If a shutoff valve is needed in the suction line use one that doesn't increase turbulence and friction loss (e.g. a ball valve). - -------------- My THANKS go to all that responded on my question of a homemade new sparge water heater. The 5 gal. polyethylene pail is fine with the electric heating element. The plastic around the element doesn't feel any hotter than the rest of the pail. Maiden mash tommorrow with my new RIMS. Wish me luck... C.D. Pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 08:03:04 -0500 (EST) From: ejk at bselab.bls.com (Evan Kraus) Subject: Insulation for Mash Vessel For those of U looking for insulation for Mashing equipment. There is a product available from A/C and Refrigeration suppliers. It is a foam insulation available in sheets 3'x5' in 1/2" and 3/4" thick versions. I use it around my mash vessels. It is easily cut with a utility knife and will adapt to any shape. I hold them on with ace bandages which makes them quit easy to remove. If used on a vessel that is direct fired a shield must be used because it is falmable. One of the manufactures is Armaflex and is quit often refered to as Armaflex by tradesmen. Not sure what the R value is. Evan - -- ejk at bselab.bls.com Evan Kraus BellSouth Wirless (404) 713-1111 Voice & Fax Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 08:23:10 -0500 From: Bob McCowan <bob.mccowan at cfrp.varian.com> Subject: Re: Flushing and drying a CFWC/Stuck Bock/Foam CF Chiller: Why dry it? - Why not get it nice and clean and then fill it with B-brite, cap it, and store it full. Iodophor might work, but is more likely to lose its sanitizing power with time- I've noticed that when the yellow is gone fuzzy stuff will growin it. Anyhow, this is what I've been foing, and haven't had problems yet. BTW, I used to use an immersion chiller, but like the CF better. Stuck Bock: I'd avoid reaerating at this point, but rather would add strongly fermenting kreusen beer. Oxygen is generally required in the reproduction phase - If you add a strong kreusen (big starter a high kreusen should work), the yeast should be vigorous and should hlp the fermentation finish. Foam > (3)despenser hose length:Vertical rise pressure (V.R.P.) states >that one pound of static resistance pressure is required >for every two feet of vertical rise regardless of >transmission line size.All this means is that if your >transmission line (the line from the keg to the tap) is >say ,greater than 5 feet, you need a restricter hose of >3/16 I.D. for the last foot before the tap.Very important! I can understand why a long length of small-diameter hose will provide a gradual pressure drop and probably reduce foaming, but doesn't the above argument assume that your tap line is vertical? Bob - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob McCowan voice: (508)-922-6000 x208 ATG/Receiver-Protector fax: (508)-922-8914 CPI BMD Formerly Varian CF&RPP e-mail: bob.mccowan at cfrp.varian.com Beverly, MA 01915 - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Dec 95 08:27:49 EST From: "Thomas A. Wideman" <75710.1511 at compuserve.com> Subject: Brewpub book Does anyone know of a _good_ guide to brewpubs throughout the US, with international locations being a plus as well? Private email please. TIA, Tom Wideman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 08:50:44 -0500 From: DONBREW at aol.com Subject: source for parts > I acquired an old hot water > heater from my friend, and removed the element. One wouldn't need to > bring home a heater and tear it apart in order to experiment with one. This post and many others like it makes me remember a fine source for appliance parts, both electric and gas. Take your small tool kit with you in the alley behind any appliance store or many plumber shops, there you will find great piles of used appliances of many types waiting to be loaded into the garbage truck. Yes they throw old appliances away!!!! even remodeled kitchens get the old heave ho. Generally speaking people decide that their appliances are completely dead and need replacement because some $5 part burns out. Now go scrounge around. You might be well advised to ask inside the store first to avoid unforeseen problems with overzealous junk guards, yes some people guard their junk. Be Bold, Don Falls Church, Va. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 95 8:40:58 GMT (Original EST) From: "Michael R. Swan" <mswan at fdic.gov> Subject: Hops Toxicity in Dogs Greetings fellow brewers: At the risk of starting another mercury/aluminum/chlorine toxicity flame war, I feel the need to pass on some information to those of you brewers who own dogs. According to National Animal Poison Control Center at the University of Illinois, Urbana, there have been eight reported cases of hops toxicity in dogs. Apparently, ingestion of hops results in malignant hyperthermia--an uncontrollable fever. The first symptom to become apparent to an owner is heavy panting. Rapid heart rate will also be present, up to 200 beats per minute. The dog's body temperature may rise as quickly as 2 degrees F every five minutes. Hops toxicity in dogs has only come to light within the past twelve months (apparently due to the increasing popularity of homebrewing). The evidence so far indicates that Greyhounds are most at risk (7 of the 8 reported deaths were Greyhounds), but a Labrador Retriever cross also died from hops ingestion. If anyone needs additional information, the number of the NAPCC is (800) 548-2423. I am not on expert on this subject but recently read an article about the problem in one of my dog magazines. Mike Swan Dallas, Texas mswan at fdic.gov Homebrewer/Basenji owner Standard Disclaimers Apply Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 95 09:27:23 EST From: Tom_Williams_at_RAY__REC__ATLANTA at ccmail.eo.ray.com Subject: CO2 Solubility, Saturation First, thanks to Rob Gardner for adding the subject lines of posts in the queue to the post submission confirmation message. My last post was redundant, and I would have withdrawn it if I had read the confirmation in time. I will check it more carefully in the future. In HBD #1911 brewman at vivid.net writes: > 3) Bonus Question (25 points) How come my lagers always foam worse than > my ales when I'm bottling? I would think it would be the other way > around. Lager temps are 48 degrees F and ale temps are 68 degrees F. My guess would be that the lagers contains more CO2 because they are at a lower temperature, hence, higher gas solubility. ******************** Then gmccarthy at dayna.com (Gary McCarthy) writes: > ... the fermentable(key word) sugars are eaten up in 2 days, and the > solution (the beer) is saturated with CO2(IMO not yet carbonated). A question to the Encyclopedia Brewtannica: Is there a difference between "saturated with CO2" and "carbonated"? I would have guessed that the former is the definition of the latter. Tom Williams Raytheon Engineers & Constructors twilliams at ccgate.ueci.com Norcross, Georgia, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 95 10:51:59 CST From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu> Subject: Crabtree effect In Digest #1911: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> says: [snip] >Excess glucose induces the crabtree effect where yeast doesn't bother to >reproduce - just eat. The Crabtree effect is exemplified by the fact that the availability of glucose inhibits respiration, even in the presence of excess O2. The point is, the inhibition of respiration is the result, not necessarily the inhibition of yeast budding. In fact, there is also another effect known as the reverse-Pasteur effect. In this case, increasing dissolved O2 causes an increase in fermentation rate and yeast budding. The point here is that yeast can and do grow (reproduce) in the presence of glucose, particularly if O2 is available, but respiration does not occur in the presence of glucose. I hope this isn't being too picky. Tracy Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 10:58:14 -0500 (EST) From: "Kathy Booth (Waverly)" <kbooth at isd.ingham.k12.mi.us> Subject: use of pressure cooker I inherited a very large canning p.cooker (8 qts at once). Besides canning wort for building yeast population, I remove the screw-in pressure gage and with some plumbing supplies from a commercial supplier (not the local shop), I fitted a piece of humidifier supply line copper tubing as a large wand which I use to deliver dry steam to heat my mashes. Work great although the super hot copper wand demands utmost respect. I've branded my fingers by grabbing it without a glove or hotpad. Crude, cheap, effective! ckp at chatanooga had it correct. Check your garage sales, estate sales, rummage sales, or post it where used items are sold. Canning isn't as common so used sources should exist. On threads worn bare; isn't there a difference between a "quality" product and "good quality control" (which gives you what you designed). Why try to make one word work for two situations and then argue over meaning. No longer just lurking......Jim Booth, Lansing, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 11:19:20 -0500 From: JAWeld at aol.com Subject: Converted brew pot How y'all? Got a question for you on converting a swimming pool filter canister to a brew pot. The canister is approx. 20" across. Once the hole in the bottom is capped, the thing will be able to boil ten gallons with plenty of "freeboard". When 5-6 gallons is added to the pot, the depth of the liquid is only a couple of inches. Will this cause any problems when doing my usual 5 gallon batches. Or do I need to go to 10 gallon batches? :-{ ) Increased evaporation is one that comes to mind. Anyone out there have any experience with these things?? Private email is fine and I will post a summary if I get any good information. TIA, Amos JAWeld at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 09:03:41 -0800 From: rownby at televar.com (Ray Ownby) Subject: lagers/braggots Got a couple questions for y'all; I'm working on my second lager and am just curious if it's going like it should. After pitching my yeast (Wyeast 2038), I let it sit for 24 hours at 60 deg, then transferred to the fridge at 46 deg. One week later I still have >1/4" of krausen and it's still fermenting happily away. Now I'm not complaining, mind you, but I've been led to believe that this much activity is not expected from a lager at these temps. My only other attempt was using the insulated box trick and I couldn't see what was happening. Just wondering if this is normal or if I have SuperYeast trapped in a carboy. I have also made an attempt at Braggot. I have very little information in my available reference books. I've never tasted one nor known anyone who has actually made one, so I'm kind of brewing blindly on this. I used a pound of Brewer's Gold DME and a pound of clover honey, boiled 15 minutes in 2 liters of water and pitched onto some Wyeast 1056, topping it off to make a full gallon. I really have no preconceived expectations on how it should taste, but I did taste my hydrometer sample and I have some pretty high hopes for this. Is this normally carbonated or just a still beverage? Anybody have any comparisons to what my end product should taste like? I think it's going to be pretty good, but with my lack of information on the subject I'd just like a little extra information from someone who actually knows. One last thing. Since I switched to all grain about a year and a half ago, I have seen many references to recirculating the mash runnings until they are clear. Is this refering to the wort having no husks or grain particles flowing through, or does it refer to the wort itself being clear rather than cloudy? I have tried recirculating my wort for WAY too long to acheive clearness in my runnoff, but have never succeeded in that. It's always cloudy no matter what I do, so then I'm thinking maybe the reference is to husks and grain parts. Could someone please enlighten me on this? Sorry if it's obvious to everyone else, but I've never decided which is correct. Thanks for all the help. I must admit since I've been reading the HBD my beer has gone from just OK to VERY good! "Aye, aye, Bessy, never brew wi' bad malt upo' Michaelmas day, else you'll have a poor tap." -Mr. Tulliver From "The Mill on the Floss" by George Eliot rownby at televar.com -Ray Ownby- Moses Lake, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 11:59:22 -0500 From: Mike Morgan <morgan at aavid.com> Subject: Blue Moon - Belgian White I recently picked up a 6-pack of BLUE MOON Belgian White Ale. It has a great creamy taste with a hint of orange peel and some sort of spice. Can anyone shed some light on the style of beer. I have frequently heard about Belgian White style but this is the first time I have tried it. Also if anyone has a recipe for a similar taste please sent it on over. I am really interested in any Wyeast products that may be used. Thanks morgan at aavid.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ m O R G A N m O R G A N m O R G A N m O R G A N ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 13:17:16 -0500 From: Mike Morgan <morgan at aavid.com> Subject: Blue Moon - Belgian White I recently picked up a 6-pack of BLUE MOON Belgian White Ale. It has a great creamy taste with a hint of orange peel and some sort of spice. Can anyone shed some light on the style of beer. I have frequently heard about Belgian White style but this is the first time I have tried it. Also if anyone has a recipe for a similar taste please sent it on over. I am really interested in any Wyeast products that may be used. Thanks morgan at aavid.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ m O R G A N m O R G A N m O R G A N m O R G A N ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Dec 95 13:21:39 EST From: "WEISEL, KARL R." <WEISEL at rcsstds.mhs.compuserve.com> Subject: Steam Heater Boiler A question to the Steam Fired Collective... We are in the process of buying a new house with a steam heat system in it, and on Saturday during the home inspection I was measuring the space for my brewery and happened to look at the steam boiler - a 200 K Btu/hr system with all the protective stuff, water feed, pressure blow off, and vented combustion path. This baby has all the stuff on it I'd need to convert to steam feed mash and boil kettles. Has anyone out there ever tapped into a steam heat system for their brewery? Out of the boiler is a verticle 2' , 4" dia pipe that I could install a T onto with 2 flow control valves, one for the house and another for the brewery. then I'd need a flow control valve on the gas line to be able to back off on the heat for a steady boil. Controls would be manual for gas flow, and steam to the house / kettles. Other than the cost of the piping and valves does anyone see any problems with this? Comments and experiences are welcomed... Karl Weisel - Cleveland (soon to be Clev. Heights) Ohio. WEISEL at rcsstds.mhs.compuserve.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1913, 12/19/95