HOMEBREW Digest #1963 Mon 19 February 1996

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Questions about lagers (Rich Bemindt)
  MAC Software (Mark & Vonnie Mrozinski)
  Celis distribution ("Tracy Aquilla")
  Big Rock Pale Ale (Doug Konrad [4191])
  Re: wooden paddle source? (Jeff Renner)
  Recall on galvanized pipe opinion / RIMS question ("Keith Royster")
  extraction efficency (Michael McGuire)
  Force carbonate with N2/CO2 mix? (Mark Berman)
  Re: wooden paddle source? (John S. Burger)
  Pin Lock Keg Tool (Rosenzweig,Steve)
  8 Gal SS Pot - Reply summary (Brad Anesi)
  Heartless Heartland Brewing (Brad Anesi)
  Re: cheap SS pipe for RIMS (hollen)
  Corn Sugar Starter (James M. Harper)
  Alternate to Labeling Bottles (MpcUSA)
  Water Info Attribution ("Dave Draper")
  Pico Paddles (Dan McConnell)
  tannins in hop tea? ("Robert Waddell")
  Re:Sam Adams Contest/Gott Spigot Replacement ("Patrick E. Humphrey 708-937-3295")
  Airlock Wierdness ("Richard Scotty")
  Suds SG Calculations (Kirk R Fleming)
  Is it legal? (Randy Lewis)
  Re: boilers and heat conduction (Captain)
  : Corn Sugar Starter? (Captain)
  Avoirdupois to gram conversion (Rolland Everitt)
  Oops (KennyEddy)
  suscribe (Michael Orlyk)
  Re: Mike's List of homebrew suppliers (John S. Burger)
  spent grains (Hettsmac)
  Question on bottle washing (Woody Weaver)
  More Food-Grade Silicone (KennyEddy)
  Mash Kettle/Chorine Sanitizer Questions (Mitch Hogg)
  I want to be on your mailing list (Eric Farry)
  Calcium chloride (Wolfgang L. Wedel)
  Lowering mash pH; how? ("James Hojel")
  re: cooling hot wort (Robert Rogers)
  Them Crazy Germans (Mitch Hogg)
  Experiments and water (KennyEddy)
  Re: Soldering/Hop scales (cheap) (00bkpickeril)

****************************************************************** * POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** ################################################################# # # YET ANOTHER NEW FEDERAL REGULATION: if you are UNSUBSCRIBING from the # digest, please make sure you send your request to the same service # provider that you sent your subscription request!!! I am now receiving # many unsubscribe requests that do not match any address on my mailing # list, and effective immediately I will be silently deleting such # requests. # ################################################################# NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS hpfcmgw! Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 16 Feb 96 08:56:08 -0500 From: Rich Bemindt <richb at cai.com> Subject: Questions about lagers Hi all, I am a newbie and until recently only brewed ales with good success. About a month or so ago, I decided to brew the rocky raccoon honey lager in TNCJOHB. Inplace of the specified yeast, I used Wyeast #2112. The fermentation took a total of 3 weeks to complete (It did 10 days in the primary and 11 in the secondary). The resulting beer is very clear. However, I may have rushed things a bit (probably due to my inexperience with lagers) and bottled it shortly after fermentation stopped. Now for my problem. The beer has been aging in the bottles for 2 weeks. Well last night I thought I would try it to see how it is going. First thing I noticed is that the sediment on the bottom of the bottle is a dark color. Second problem is that the beer was flat. Third problem is that it had a harsh taste to it. Sort of reminded me of grain alcohol. While I don't think that this beer will be salvagable, I was wondering if anyone has any idea of what I could have done wrong. TIA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 09:11:28 -0500 From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com> Subject: RE: rehydration of Irish moss Hi all, Greg King asks: >Should Irish moss should be rehydrated prior to being added to boiling wort? >If the answer is yes, then what is the proper rehydration procedure? This topic was covered extensively on the digest sometime early this year but the general concensus seemmed to be that rehydration was a good idea. I usually put a spoon full of Irish moss in a half cup of warm tap water at the beginning of my brew session (or as soon as I remember !) give it a quick stir and set it aside until the last few minutes of the boil. This seems to work great. Chris Cooper , Commerce Michigan --> Pine Haven Brewery <-- ccooper at a2607.cc.msr.hp.com --> aka. Deb's Kitchen <-- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 08:30:57 -0600 From: mdmroz at mail.ip.portal.com (Mark & Vonnie Mrozinski) Subject: MAC Software Is anyone aware of any GOOD brewing software for the Macintosh? I have seen some good stuff for Windows but what I have come across on the Mac side seems to be lacking. Human brewer experience has oodles over the print and cyber ads. Thanks for your help! Mark Mrozinski, Schaumburg, IL mdmroz at mail.ip.protal.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 96 09:27:06 CST From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu> Subject: Celis distribution In Digest #1961: Bart Thielges <bart.thielges at Xilinx.COM>: > >As many fans of Celis Grand Cru know, its distribution has been greatly >curtailed and is only available in a few states now. Pity the fans who >became hooked, only to have their favorite product pulled from the shelves. What's the deal with this anyway? I thought the reason for Celis selling out to Miller was to INCREASE distribution, not "curtail" it. Did the plan back-fire? Tracy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 07:12:20 -0800 From: dkonrad at glenayre.com (Doug Konrad [4191]) Subject: Big Rock Pale Ale I've just started brewing, and I would like to make a pale ale similar to something I'm familiar with, and fond of. One of my favourite commercial beers is Big Rock Pale Ale. I was wondering if there are any Western Canadians who could suggest an extract recipe that is close to this? If not, could you educate me about what type of beer this is? (British or American pale ale, IBUs, etc.) Thanks Doug Konrad dkonrad at glenayre.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 96 10:16:12 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: wooden paddle source? In HBD 1961, "mike spinelli" <paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil> asked >Does anybody know where I can get one of those large wooden paddles as >seen in the Pico Brewing Systems ads? I've called and faxed them and >have gotten nowhere. Just an answering machine. Mike O'Brien (obrien at cyberspace.org), who handles the day to day operations of Pico, is in CHINA demonstrating the Pico system! A Chinese national who lives in Atlanta bought three complete systems and is paying Mike's way to go help them set up. I don't know if this Chinese is planning to market them there or what. Mike left early this week, taking with him enough ingredients to brew a batch or two. He didn't know what to expect when he got there as far as ingredients, electricity, propane, propane fittings, etc, but the guy told him he'd meet him there and take care of it. Mike may be back by now as he said he would be spending more time in the air than on the ground in China. I'm looking forward to hearing from Mike about his trip. I'm sure Mike will get back to you about the paddles. BTW, he has them made up for him from white oak by Jim Johnston, another member of the Ann Arbor Brewers' Guild. Jim made me a short one for my 10 gallon imitation Pico. Standard disclaimer. Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 10:27:45 -0500 From: "Keith Royster" <keith.royster at ponyexpress.com> Subject: Recall on galvanized pipe opinion / RIMS question As some of you may remember I recently posted my rather unpopular opinion that galvanized piping was probably safe to use in a brewing system (RIMS, in my case) and that the worst that *might* happen is a metallic taste to my beer. Someone responded in private that it seemed that my conclusion was pre-determined, that I knew what I wanted to concluded before I did my research. Well, this may very well be the case, as I had already built my system out of galvanized pipes and I didn't want to rebuild it. So I rethought my conclusion and looked for the weak spots in my thinking. My conclusion was based on both facts and some assumptions. I knew that copper is MUCH more toxic than zinc in equal concentrations yet we brew in copper all of the time. So I assumed that, while zinc is probably more soluable than copper, it was probably at least similar in its soluability so as not to become a problem. I pulled out my old water chemistry book to check this assumption and boy was I wrong!!! Even considering the high probability that I made some errors on my calculations, zinc appears to be many, many, MANY orders of magnitude more soluable than copper. I don't know the exact concentraction of Zn++ that would occur, only it's approximate ratio to Cu++ if copper pipes were used, all other things being equal, so I still can't say if the levels would be toxic or not. But the chances of it being toxic, or even ruining the taste of my beer, are no longer within my levels of tolerance, so I have rebuilt my RIMS heating chamber. Now you can all sleep better not having to worry that one of my tainted beers will show up at your club's contest =) Now I have some RIMS questions. How do those of you with RIMS deliver the wort to the top of the grain bed gently and evenly? And do you think occasional stirring of the grain bed is necessary (maybe between temp steps) to eliminate temperature pockets, or should the grain be be shallow enough (even with a 10 gallon batch in a modified sankey keg) so as not to have these temperature pockets? TIA for all advice! Keith Royster - Keith.Royster at ponyexpress.com at your.service - The Affordable Web Page Provider Mooresville, NC - Specializing in small and medium sized businesses. Check us out at - http://www.wp.com/ at your.service/ Voice & Fax - (704) 663-1098 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 09:19:23 -0600 From: mcguire at hvsun40.mdc.com (Michael McGuire) Subject: extraction efficency Hi HBD, I was wondering why the extraction efficency is generally lower with smaller batches?? I use a colman 48 Q coller and have a effiecncy around 27to 28. I read that somewhere around 30 is good for a homebrew. Most micros?? seem to get closer to 35 pt/lb. Is this have to do with the surface area to volume?? I'd really like to get an effiency that is higher. I've made batches with decoction, 1 , 2 and 3 step infusion mashes and they all seem to yield about the same extraction. A friend suggested to stop about halve way thru the sparge and stir up the grain bed and recirulate before resuming sparging. I've also heard many people say it seemed completely dependant on false bottom. Is there any consensus?? Michael Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 11:12:52 -0500 From: mberman at bbn.com (Mark Berman) Subject: Force carbonate with N2/CO2 mix? Hi -- I've seen some traffic here about the advantages of using a nitrogen and carbon dioxide mix for dispensing from a corny keg setup, and I'm tempted to try it out. However, I have only one gas tank and don't want to invest in another to try this experiment. So, if I fill my one tank with a N2/CO2 mix, is force carbonating (actually, "effervescing" is probably the right word here) with the mix OK? Or is that the whole idea and I just didn't get it? Thanks for any advice. -- Mark Mark Berman mberman at bbn.com Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Feb 96 10:18:08 +0500 From: jsburger at xmission.com (John S. Burger) Subject: Re: wooden paddle source? On or about Thu, 15 Feb 1996 07:56:28 -0400 (EDT) mike spinelli typed the following words about "wooden paddle source?". My reply is thus... ms> Does anybody know where I can get one of those large wooden paddles as ms> seen in the Pico Brewing Systems ads? I've called and faxed them and hav ms> gotten nowhere. Just an answering machine. ms> Thanks ms> Mike in Cherry Hill NJ Have you tried a restaurant supply store. Wooden paddles are used in the large steam kettles used in commercial kitchens. - -- // -= John =- jsburger at xmission.com BIX: jburger \X/ Via Amateur Radio KB0ES T Amiga 2000 H A2630 A2632 John S. Burger Hooper, UT O 2+14megs RAM R 850meg HD This message was composed on... 2.22 Iomega ZIP 16-Feb-96 10:14:39 MST - -- Failsafe pickup: Bond. James Bond. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 11:09:34 PST From: Steve_Rosenzweig at wb.xerox.com (Rosenzweig,Steve) Subject: Pin Lock Keg Tool This may not be a revelation for anyone, but I was quite pleased with myself for adding to my gadgetry . . . I use the pin lock style soda kegs for my brews, and have always had trouble getting the darn pin lock fixtures off so that I could clean. My trusty crescent wrench would work, but only after much effort and possible damage to the fixture (such as popping one of the dang metal nips off - which I did!). My grandfather's voice kept ringing through my head "the right tool for the job" or some such nonsense . . . But then I saw in a recent issue of Zymurgy that someone was selling a socket for removing the pin lock fixtures for about $15. Now, I'm way too cheap for that, and upon further review of the picture in the write-up, I saw that it was just a 13/16" deep well socket that had notches in the end to allow the metal nips to fit through. Since I didn't already have that particular type of socket . . . off to the hardware store I went. A 13/16" deep well socket (spark plug style) was about $2.50. I took it home and used a 4" hand held grinder to cut some notches in the correct pattern (four notches in the corners of the hex pattern - two across from each other, and two next to either one of those)- and viola! a new gadget for the brew box! Nothing against those folks selling the tool for $15, I'm sure lots of people may not have the time, tools, or inclination to make their own gadget, and would gladly pay for the completed part. Not I. Not an earth shattering revelation, but if it saves a few kegs and or scraped knuckles, I've done my good deed for the day. Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 11:37:48 -0800 From: BANESI at novell.com (Brad Anesi) Subject: 8 Gal SS Pot - Reply summary Thanks for the replies - here's a summary... 1) The most common recommendation was to cut up a keg (1/2 or 1/4), and use that as a brewing vessel. While this is a future possibility, I'm still doing stove-top brewing, which makes this a difficult approach due to space limitations. 2) Apparently a $70 8 gal SS pot with top was located in southern California at an Oriental grocery store. So, my next trip into New York will include a visit into Chinatown to see what I can find. 3) The other recommendations included checking with a restaurant supply house who might also carry used pots. Thanks for all the responses - if I ever do locate one in the New York metro area, I'll let everyone know. Brad Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 11:50:24 -0800 From: BANESI at novell.com (Brad Anesi) Subject: Heartless Heartland Brewing Has anyone else seen the recent ad in the Ale Street News... Zip City Didn't Westside Brewing Company Didn't We Did ...win a medal a the '95 GABF This ad certainly implies that Zip City was at the GABF (they were not) and it makes no mention of the fact that it was a bronze medal that *1* of their beers won (of the many they entered). I've also recently learned that the day before Christmas, Zip City was closed and Heartland was open (within walking distance). *Somebody* plastered signs at the entrance to Zip City letting everyone know that Heartland was open for business. Gee, how thoughtful. It's getting ugly out there. Brad Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 96 11:58:55 PST From: hollen at vigra.com Subject: Re: cheap SS pipe for RIMS >>>>> "Andrew" == Andrew J Donohue <andy2 at hogpa.ho.att.com> writes: Andrew> While repairing the exhaust on my car I had a brainstorm Andrew> (brainfart?). Many late model cars have SS exhausts. Would Andrew> this SS be suitable for the heat chamber on a RIMS? It should Andrew> be relatively inexpensive and readily available. I know there Andrew> are different grades of SS, are any of them NOT suitable for Andrew> contact with food? While the food grade contact is better answered by John Palmer, I *can* tell you that 304 or 316 will be fine. In fact, I am pretty sure any SS will. However, here is the cold water to splash on your face. While the pipe will be fine, you eventually have to connect it up to 1) 1" female tapered pipe threads to accept the heater (yes, I know the heater threads are MSPT, not MNPT, but they fit together) and 2) to inlets and outlets of approximately 1/2" or so. This means that you will have to have fittings other than just the straight length of pipe and the pipe will have to be welded or silver soldered to those fittings. Those fittings will be quite expensive. Silver soldering SS is not something you want to try, it is quite difficult to do correctly and water tight. TIG welding is your best bet, but getting that done, IMHO, will end up costing you what you saved over getting threaded pipe. Parts for a complete heater chamber, ready to accept a 22" heater element with T's and compression fittings on the input output side for temperature probes will only cost about $130. There is no welding, so assembly should only cost the cost of a roll of teflon tape. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x119 Email: hollen at vigra.com Senior Software Engineer Vigra, Inc. San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 14:01:17 -0800 From: harperj at olympus.net (James M. Harper) Subject: Corn Sugar Starter Regarding Tracy Aquilla's thesis on using only maltose as a yeast starter, wouldn't any fermentable polysacharide be equally as effective? It sure is easier to boil up some sucrose. ????? Jim Harper Sequim, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 17:07:34 -0500 From: MpcUSA at aol.com Subject: Alternate to Labeling Bottles Greetings from Pittsburgh, PA, USA Anyone reading Jan/Feb Issue of New Brewer Magazine may have seen the article on an alternative to labeling bottles - direct screen printing. I am David Mueller from Miller Process Coating Company, the manufacturer of the machine mentioned in the article. If anyone has any questions, would like to become more familiar with the process, or investigate the feasability of printing bottles instead of paper labeling please e-mail me directly at mpcusa at aol.com. Happy to answer your questions. Thanks! David Mueller Miller Process Coating Company East Pittsburgh, PA, 15112 USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 09:07:46 +10 From: "Dave Draper" <david.draper at mq.edu.au> Subject: Water Info Attribution Dear Friends, Ken Schwartz wrote: "BTW this brings me to a question about "building" brewing water. I have read much of the general literature available about water treatment (Miller, Pappazian, Draper, etc), and while I follow the general discussion, I just plain get lost in the details of the chemistry. Draper's papers (I'm a poet and don't know it) seem to be very thorough but again I'm just a bit dizzy..." Much as I am delighted and flattered to see my name in the same breath as those other guys *grin* I must point out that it is AJ deLange who wrote the great series of articles about water chemistry last year, not me. I could no more have come up with that outstanding treatment of the subject than I could pilot a hot-air balloon across Antarctica. All I did was compile some numbers, which served as a partial basis for AJ's stuff--and the bulk of those numbers were supplied to my by Fredrik Stahl. So I am simply a go-between on this one. But thanks for thinking I actually know something!!! Cheers, Dave in Sydney "Cross your fingers and wait it out." ---A. J. deLange - --- *************************************************************************** David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia Email: david.draper at mq.edu.au WWW: http://audio.apana.org.au/ddraper/home.html ...I'm not from here, I just live here... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 17:13:56 -0500 From: danmcc at umich.edu (Dan McConnell) Subject: Pico Paddles From: "mike spinelli" <paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil> >Does anybody know where I can get one of those large wooden paddles as >seen in the Pico Brewing Systems ads? I've called and faxed them and have >gotten nowhere. Just an answering machine. Mike OBrien is currently in China demonstrating the Pico systems. Try sending him email at <obrien at cyberspace.org>. DanMcC Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Feb 96 15:41:00 MST From: "Robert Waddell" <V024971 at Tape.StorTek.Com> Subject: tannins in hop tea? Greetings Brewers and Brewsters, A quick question: Some time back, someone (Algis, A. J.,?) said that if you boil hops to make a hop tea instead of dry hopping that it would extract tannins that would be added to your final product. I also seem to remember someone saying that the reason that the tannins are not extracted in a wort boil is because the pH is so low. So the question is: if you drop the pH in the tea with a little lactic acid would the tannin extraction be nullified? I've been dry hopping for quite some time now and even with a nylon bag tied over the bottom of my racking cane it is a royal pain in the patootie (PITP...) to move my beers to the keg or the bottling bucket. Thanks for the BW and any replies. Bob V024971 at tape.StorTek.com Head Brewer, The Barchenspieder Brew-Haus "I just love my new "Pico-System", except for the "Bonging" noise that it makes when my wife throws it off of the bed every night" --Author Unknown Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 16:07:00 -0600 (CST) From: "Patrick E. Humphrey 708-937-3295" <HUMPHREY.PATRICK at igate.pprd.abbott.com> Subject: Re:Sam Adams Contest/Gott Spigot Replacement In HBD #1961 Steve wrote... >FWIW, we were told that Boston Beer Co. plans to repeat their World >Homebrew Contest again this year. I thought I might relate to you a story I heard the other day at my local homebrew shop. I will try to be as accurate as possible but I can't guarantee it... It seems that one of the employee's (or customer, not sure which) had entered the BBC's homebrew contest last fall and ended up winning one of the categories. I guess he didn't make it to the final round because they never called him to fly to Boston. Anyway, do you think he would have received some kind of award for winning the category? He received the same shirt and hops that all the other entrants received. You would think that they would have at least sent him a certificate or ribbon of some kind. The BBC at work again. Also in #1961, Dave Houseman wrote about a replacement for Gott spigot... > Actually a cheaper and easier Gott spigot is to go to your HB store and >buy ($3.50 or so) a bottling bucket spigot. With a little effort it fits >into the Gott hole and you can use the same rubber grommet or an O ring to >seal. Rag mode on... Am I the only one that finds the spigots used in bottling buckets to be a pain in the butt? The type I use is a plastic spigot that has a thin plastic disk through which the spigot attaches. Whenever I try to attach tubing or turn the spigot open, the spigot spins toward the ceiling and I end up touching the end of the spigot with my hands to try to hold it in place. Not very sanitary. And Heaven forbid if you put the bucket on a counter top and don't hang the spigot off the edge. The spigot bends and pulls the disk away from where it is seated and ends up leaking, forever! AAHHHH!! The next thing is that there are two holes in the spigot, one where the wort passes and a little hole on the opposite side. Why that little hole is there I don't know, perhaps just to aggravate me. Tell me if you have ever had this happen to you. Occasionally, I have to move the filled bottles out of the way so I need to stop the flow of wort. I turn the flow off and the little hole is now pointing towards me and the whatever else it may be aimed at. I lift the racking cane a little bit and the wort comes shooting out all over the place!! AAAHHH, AGAIN! Why don't they seal the disk onto the housing so that the thing doesn't spin or leak? I usually end up with about a bottle of sugary, stickey, homebrew dripping on the dishwasher door, me, the floor... What a waste. Needless to say, I don't enjoy bottling at the moment and unfortunately I don't have room for kegging equipment. Perhaps a Party Pig. Sorry, I just had to get that off my chest. Rag mode off... Pat in Illinois patrick.e.humphrey at abbott.com Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Feb 1996 20:27:53 -0700 From: "Richard Scotty" <richard_scotty at msmgate.mrg.uswest.com> Subject: Airlock Wierdness Ok - now I'm stumped. In preparation for brewing this weekend, I took out two containers of yeast (salvaged through yeast washing) and fed them some sterile 1.030 wort. All appeared normal last night, but when I got home tonight I noticed that one of the airlocks is actually running in reverse. That's right, it's sucking air *into* the erlimyer flask. I've been brewing for some years now and I've never witnessed this before. The flasks have been side by side during propagation and there were no deviations from my normal procedures. The second flask exhibits normal activity. I use Iodophor as a sanitizer and am reasonably sure that sanitization isn't a problem. Even if it were, I'd still expect positive pressure in the airlock. The appearance of the starter is normal otherwise. So my question to the collective is: Can anyone explain this? IMYP (Is My Yeast Posessed?). Needless to say, I won't be pitching this into my wort. I'll split the other starter between the carboys and make do. Rich Scotty Chief Bronkbuster at the Yeast Ranch - The Crapshoot Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 20:24:57 +0000 From: Kirk R Fleming <flemingkr at market1.com> Subject: Suds SG Calculations In #1961 Erik Larson (erik.larson at treas.sprint.com) said: > Most individuals pointed to a problem with Suds incorporating > specialty grains as part of the regular grain bill, which in my > case often consists primarily of liquid and dry extracts, as well > as cane sugar. In fact, because specialty grains contribute > little in the way of fermentables to the wort, they ought not to > be included on an equal footing with the regular grain bill > components when computing total points to gravity. The result of Erik's setting the specialty grains' sg contributions to 0 may be better sg estimates, but I disagree completely with the reasoning. First, specialty grains may not contribute much in the way of fermentables, percentage-wise, that's true. This has nothing to do with whether they contribute to the gravity of the wort. Black patent contributes about 29 ppg, period. Twenty-nine is the number of the points, the number of points being 29. It's not 25, nor is it 30, but 29. The fact that you only use 1 pound in a 20 pound grain bill is how its contribution is accounted for. KRF Colorado Springs Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 23:10:46 -0500 (EST) From: Randy Lewis <brew at albany.net> Subject: Is it legal? Hi fellow brewers, I have a new supply store in upstate ny,and have a serious question.I have asked 5 police officers and have contacted the dept. of alcohol(can't tell me untill Tues.)and no one can tell me if it's legal to sell supplies to minors(under21 in NY)I know you can't give or sell the finished product to minors, of course.I don't know if the raw product falls under the law.I know you have to be 21 to make it.Need to know so I am not breaking the law.Should I be carding all the local students?Please e-mail me or respond with a follow up. Much Appreciated Randy Lewis Visit me http://www.albany.net/~brew Randy Lewis "If you can boil,you can brew" Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 96 09:18 EST From: Captain <captain at iquest.net> Subject: Re: boilers and heat conduction Subject: Re:boilers and heat conduction >Regan in Sydney >I am looking to buy a 40 litre SS boiler, and have seen two types. >One is made of thin SS all round, and runs $160. The other has an >aluminium "sandwich" on the base, and costs $280 (!!!). So, in >terms of heat transfer etc, is it worth the expense to get the >better quality boiler? >Ever since reading an article from one of your Ausie compatriots on >steam, I have been converting and trying to fine tune my own steam >system. My research condensed down is: the aluminum pot will give >a give a better heat transfer but is a better heat transfer really >necessary? You can just increase the btu a little with your burner. You can do that, but the aluminum sandwich will spread the heat out evenly and help in eliminating hot spots. Just my .02 worth. captain at iquest.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 96 09:24 EST From: Captain <captain at iquest.net> Subject: : Corn Sugar Starter? >Yeast cannot leave by sugar alone......(or something like that) >Yeast needs compounds besides sugars to function, which aren't provided by >pure corn sugar. DME not only contains the sugar, but other nutrients as >well. I've had pretty good luck with making yeast starters with pre-boiled honey. Anyone see any fundimental problems with that? captain at iquest.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 10:27:08 -0500 From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt) Subject: Avoirdupois to gram conversion Ken Koupal posted a message asking for sources of balances that are calibrated in ounces rather than the more usual grams. I cannot provide such a source, but I can provide the conversion table that I use with my own balance. Here it is Gram equivalents of Avoir. Weights Conversion factors: 1 Ounce=28.35 grams 1 Pound = 453.6 grams Pounds Ounces Grams 0 0.25 7.1 0 0.50 14.2 0 0.75 21.3 0 1.00 28.4 0 4.00 113.4 0 8.00 226.8 0 12.00 340.2 1 0.00 453.6 1 4.00 567.0 1 8.00 680.4 1 12.00 793.8 2 0.00 907.2 2 4.00 1020.6 2 8.00 1134.0 2 12.00 1247.4 3 0.00 1360.8 3 4.00 1474.2 3 8.00 1587.6 3 12.00 1701.0 4 0.00 1814.4 4 4.00 1927.8 4 8.00 2041.2 4 12.00 2154.6 5 0.00 2268.0 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 11:20:42 -0500 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Oops After digging back through old HBD's I realized that I had credited the wrong person for the water synthesis info. Dave Draper had apparently made some postings concerning water profiles but it was AJ deLange who provided the synthesis information. Credit where credit is due. My (and thanks!) apologies to both. Ken Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 11:29:41 -0500 (EST) From: Michael Orlyk <orlykma at together.net> Subject: suscribe Return to table of contents
Date: 17 Feb 96 11:54:34 +0500 From: jsburger at xmission.com (John S. Burger) Subject: Re: Mike's List of homebrew suppliers On or about Thu, 15 Feb 1996 13:50:05 -0600 Mike White typed the following words about "Mike's List of homebrew suppliers". My reply is thus... MW> Well you folks were right. I have recieved and replied to over 150 e-mai MW> requests for my list of homebrew mail-order suppliers. Many of you have MW> also asked for a copy of the final list when it is completed in a few MW> months. (As of now the list is about 11 pages long, I expect the final l MW> to be about 30 pages in length.) MW> So to alleviate me from the burden of constantly having to reply to e-mai MW> requests I have put the latest update of the list on one of my web pages. MW> Set your browser to: MW> http://www.datasync.com/~mike/cafe.html Mike, could you check the source code? There seems to be an error in the link to Caprail's Cafe. ...Stuff Deleted... - -- // -= John =- jsburger at xmission.com BIX: jburger \X/ Via Amateur Radio KB0ES T Amiga 2000 H A2630 A2632 John S. Burger Hooper, UT O 2+14megs RAM R 850meg HD This message was composed on... 2.22 Iomega ZIP 17-Feb-96 11:52:25 MST - -- Those who talk don't know. Those who don't talk, know. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 14:40:50 -0500 From: Hettsmac at aol.com Subject: spent grains Dear All Grainers, Any ideas what to do with all those spent grains. They still contain a lot of good stuff, so how about drying and toasting them, to get sort of a diluted crystall malt. Private email is fine, I'll post a summary. Robert Hett, Hudson, Mass Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 96 12:57 PST From: Woody Weaver <woody at altair.stmarys-ca.edu> Subject: Question on bottle washing Greetings, all; In a recent HBD, someone suggested washing bottles in a dishwasher with two ounces of bleach. Neat idea, but I didn't save the email address of the author... and then when I tried to actually put the bottles into the dishwasher, I became perplexed. Placing them upside down on the spines didn't work (the spines were too short, meaning the bottles would rattle and possibly break in the wash) and I couldn't figure any good way to anchor them. What sort of geometry are you using? Are you doing bottles only, or mixing them with something else to help them remain in place in the washer? I've been worrying (I know, its bad, but I'm new to the mantra) about bottle sanitation, and this would be a wonderfully simple solution. Suggestions welcomed. - --woody (woody at altair.stmarys-ca.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 17:58:08 -0500 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: More Food-Grade Silicone Thanks to Bruce Taber for his food-grade silicone posting. I found another which might be a bit more widely available. It's made by Dow-Corning and is sold as "DAP 100% Silicone Sealant" in the caulk-gun tube (about $4). You might also find it in a smaller squeeze tube too. It doesn't have any more identification that that, other than a note on the UPC symbol that says "Reorder Cat No 8641. It claims 25% joint mobility and -40F to +400F operation. There is a note on the tube which reads: "Safe for food contact: When cured and washed, ingredients which remain or which could migrate to food are listed in FDA Regulation No. 21CFR177 2600" I'd suggest you contact Dow Corning (ask for an MSDS for this product) and/or the FDA (ask for info on the above regulation) concerning this before you just plug away with it, but it appears from this note that you should be OK especially using it in small amounts. Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX The Five-Gallon Plastic Brewery is coming along very nicely, if slowly. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 21:10:55 -0500 (EST) From: Mitch Hogg <bu182 at freenet.toronto.on.ca> Subject: Mash Kettle/Chorine Sanitizer Questions A couple of questions here: First, after years of denial, I am finally in the market for a new mash kettle. The five-gallon enamelled steel canning vessel I inherited (okay, stole) from my stepmother was fine for my extract days, but now, after four or five all-grain mashes I've had it (believe me, there is nothing in the world less fun than trying to stir a mash kettle full to the rim, and don't even get me started on the logistics of a boil featuring said mash kettle and two other saucepans--yes indeed, folks; that's three burners going at once...on an electric stove). At any rate, my pot needs upgradin'--eight gallons at least, if only to keep the spill rate down. Now, given the great price differential between aluminum and stainless steel, I'd like to ask everyone what they'd recommend buying. Alzheimer's is not a major concern here (nothing's been proved, etc etc...), but longevity and potential off-flavours are. Two aluminum pots are more expensive than one SS, but is it really likely I'll wear an aluminum pot out? (I brew about once a month, and I'm 23, so you do the math). Also, any personal anecdotes, warnings, words of wisdom, etc, would be appreciated. Question two: I've always mixed my bleach solution up at home with cold water. I can't remember why, but I think Charlie recommends it in NCJHB. Whatever the case, that's how I do it. Last week, however, my boss (I work at a winemaking place) asked me why I was mixing up the chorine sanitizer (the pink powdery stuff; I think it's chemically pretty close to bleach) with cold water, as she's always used hot. Now this is a woman who's been making wine for twenty years, so I trust her unconditionally regarding matters fermentable, but sometimes her grasp on chemistry seems tenuous at best. So my question is: which of us is right? Does the temperature of the water prolong the potency of the sanitizer? Does it matter at all? TIA for your help, Mitch. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 18:03:25 -0800 From: Eric Farry <e_farry at efn.org> Subject: I want to be on your mailing list Please put me on your mailing list. Thanks, Eric Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Feb 96 22:07:22 +0100 From: faros at ping.at (Wolfgang L. Wedel) Subject: Calcium chloride Dave Miller suggests to use Calcium chloride instead of gipsum to lower the mash pH. How much does one gram (ounce) rise the ppm levels of Ca and Cl in my water? Thanks Wolfgang ________________________________________________________________ Wolfgang L. Wedel faros at ping.at Vienna/Austria Fido: 2:310/78.8 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 96 20:39:58 UT From: "James Hojel" <JTroy at msn.com> Subject: Lowering mash pH; how? I recently moved to Southern California from Colorado. I've had to alter my brewing practices due to the drastic change in water. The water from my tap has a pH of over 8 (eight) and a hardness of over 300 ppm (San Diego). I do not have a detailed water analysis yet, but my problems are obvious! Adding to the problem is my limited knowledge of water chemistry (up until now, water was a commodity that I took for granted!). I would like to find the best and most efficient way of treating my water. The options that I've discovered are running the water through a de-ionizer, adding an acid, and a sour mash. Can someone explain the pros and cons of each process with detailed instructions; quantities; etc? Thanks for the patience, JTH Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 23:22:08 -0500 From: bob at carol.net (Robert Rogers) Subject: re: cooling hot wort i put a large pot inside my brew kettle at the end of the boil for several minutes to sanitize it. then, when i turn of the heat, i put ice in the pot. after the wort cools, i take the pot out. real easy. someday i will probably have a cf chiller, but until then..... bob rogers bob at carol.net "Why, Fritz, alcohol is a gift from God..." --young Fritz Maytag's Mom Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 22:40:13 -0500 (EST) From: Mitch Hogg <bu182 at freenet.toronto.on.ca> Subject: Them Crazy Germans Somehow I managed to just get around to reading HBD 1931 tonight (you know, it's a good idea to take a look at your saved-messages file every now and then), and so I have a rather belated response to Carl Etnier's post about the Budwieser-craving German. Like Carl's father, my old man was also stationed in Germany for a few years, and he too found a few of the locals who had developed a fondness for American beer. The worst offenders, however, were the enlisted folks who couldn't be bothered to try a few pints of Pils at the local bar but shopped at the CanEx (that would be the Canadian equivalent of the PX) for the latest offerings from Molson/Labatts. Somehow the fact that they were living in the land of beer didn't really sink in to these people. The CanEx also stocked only Ontario and California wines, even though the base was within spittin' distance of the Alsacian vinyards, but don't even get me started on that one. By far the funniest beer in the CanEx, however, was Heineken, whose box proclaimed proudly, "Imported and distributed in Toronto, Ontario". That's right, folks; the Dutch beer was sent all the way to Canada, bought by the Department of National Defense, and sent back to Germany. Your tax dollars at work. Never mind how markedly different the Heineken bought in Holland and that made for the export market taste, but just think about how old that stuff must've been. And in those unprotective green bottles, no less. Believe it or not. Mitch. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 23:35:47 -0500 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Experiments and water Wow, I think I got under a couple fingernails with my recent post on Ale Experiments and Water Treatment! Agreed -- the "experiment" was NOT scientific and controlled. In its inception it wasn't supposed to be. It actually started as a "friendly competition" betewen me and Gerry, always arguing (amiably) about "you do this" and "I do that". I guess I was just taken by the few notable differences and just felt that given those differences, perhaps a few major causes could be postulated. Maybe not. Also, on water treatment, I *have* dug out Mr deLange's articles but am just not enough of a chemist to really figure out from them what to put in (or even what some of the symbols are -- chemistry idiot at work here). I can certainly calculate ppm's of mineral ions from basic salt additions (gypsum, epsom, NaCl, for example), but what this has done (if anything) to pH and other things is what's stumping me. If I get my basic salt ppm's in the ballpark, is that close enough? I'm not necessarily interested in making Burton water to 10% accuracy; if I can make a profile (or a few profiles if necessary) that's conducive to decent general purpose brewing, I'd be thrilled. WIth that I'll let it die. Ken Schwartz KennyEddy at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 02:30:16 -0500 (EST) From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu Subject: Re: Soldering/Hop scales (cheap) Gary Bud Melton asks: > I would like to make a racking cane out of copper tubing with a copper > cap soldered onto the end, but I can't seem to get the hang of > soldering. The solder just rolls off. I would like for the tubing to > rest up against one side of the cap. So far I've just gotten big > globs of solder or had the solder completely roll off. Should I use > more flux? What exactly constitutes a "thin coat"? And exactly where > should I be trying to place the solder -- should it go inside the cap, > so the cane rests in a pool of solder on the inner wall of the cap; or > should I just put a bead on the outside, where the cane and the cap > meet? First off, I'll state the obvious since you didn't mention it, that you must use lead-free solder. No, you don't need much flux at all, if any, your problem is that you are heating the solder and not the pipe. Solder will flow to the source of the heat. The object is NOT to heat the solder, but to heat the JOINT. Once the piece is hot enough, THEN touch solder to the rim of the cap and it will flow right into the joint. You don't want a "pool of solder" inside the pipe, you only want the solder in the joint between the pipe and the cap. The solder will fill any void between the pipe and the cap, and you should not have a raised bead on the outside nor any inside the pipe. It's easy once you get the hang of it. >I've been looking at kitchen scales for weighing hops so I can have >more repeatable results. Does anyone have a recommendation for an For a cheap hop scale, try the local post office, or look elsewhere for a postal scale. These are only a couple of bucks. You put some hops (or whatever) in a baggie and clip them to the scale and hold it up till it settles. You have to compensate for the baggie of course. It's quite accurate though. - --Brian Pickerill, Muncie, IN <00bkpickeril at bsu.edu> Return to table of contents