HOMEBREW Digest #199 Wed 12 July 1989

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Homebrew Digest #196 (July 07, 1989) (ferguson ct 71078)
  Yeast (David Baer)
  Potential contamination problem; comment invited ("FEINSTEIN, CHERYL")
  This just in .... (Steve Anthony)
  Needed:  Recipe for sake (gateh)
  source of kegging and brewing equipment (Steve Conklin)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 11 Jul 89 08:30:19 CDT From: rds at vogon.cray.com (Bob Swanson) Nitrosamines I came upon the following item in "World Press Review" magazine. It is taken from "Le Monde" of Paris: "Scientists in Britain have correlated pancreatic cancer and excessive consumption of British beer. After a small four-year study, the British Imperial Cancer Research Fund concluded that consumption of even 3.7 quarts per week increases the risk of death from pancreatic cancer threefold. The culprits are potentially carcinogenic nitrosamines, generated when malt is roasted in the brewing process." I remember some controversy about nitrosamines in this country in recent years. The fallout seemed to be that these chemicals were the result of "cutting corners" in the brewing process by the massive-sized U. S. brewers. One of the questions in my mind is whether these same "shortcut" techniques are used by the makers of real ale in Britain. It is assumed that such techniques are common in the tank farms of mass consumption brews, including lager. For this forum, the question would be: Do we home brewers have any control over the generation of nitrosamines in our brews? I am an extract brewer. Should I be concerned about the brands and types of extract which I purchase? Does the making of dark beers increase the concentration of these chemicals? Any insights about this issue would be most welcomed. Bob Swanson Cray Research rds at hall.cray.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 89 10:16:39 EDT From: ferguson%X102C at HARRIS-ATD.COM (ferguson ct 71078) Subject: Homebrew Digest #196 (July 07, 1989) Darryl Richman <darryl at ism780c.isc.com> writes: >10 hours is just fine. Sometimes conditions aren't so good and it >takes longer (24...48...even more). Usually this results from >underpitching, because the yeast don't move onto their fermentation >phase until they have reached a level of about 10^7 cells/ml. >Homebrewers are notorious underpitchers because nobody wants to >hassle making a starter several days ahead. I had a some slow start on a batch of homebrew but I attributed it to the inability of the dry yeast to penetrate the foam barrier on the top of the wort. I could see the powdered yeast just sitting there. I was tempted to rouse or stir the wort in the fermenter but decided not to. It eventually took off and turned out OK. Nowadays I re-hydrate dried yeast with a cup or so of tap water prior to pitching. The liquid yeast penetrates the foam barrier and disperses instantly causing fast starts. I wonder whether the slow starts you have witnessed are due to homebrewers using dry yeast rather than inadequate yeast? Chuck Ferguson Harris Government Information Systems Division (407) 984-6010 MS: W1/7732 PO Box 98000 Melbourne, FL 32902 Internet: ferguson%cobra at trantor.harris-atd.com Usenet: uunet!x102a!x102c!ferguson Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 89 07:52:48 PDT From: dsbaer at EBay.Sun.COM (David Baer) Subject: Yeast In response to Richard Hargan and using liquid yeast: In my humble experience, I think the quality of liquid yeast is so much superior to dry yeasts that the $4.00 price tag is not really that high. But granted the aim of homebrewing is to make great beer at a reasonable price, I know of a way to save money without freezing, using agar slants or innoculation loops. Using the same 1 quart of wort in a gallon jar technique, about five days before you brew, try culturing the sediment from one of those new fangeled microbrews. I use Sierra Nevada, and have had success every time. I have also used Cooper's REAL ale(lower attenuation than SN). I understand that Chimay and Duvel will come to life, and the Hefe-Weisse beers from Ayinger and Monschoff also have dormant, but not dead, yeast. I think there are a couple of lagers out there with dormant sediment but I like the William's American and spend $4.00 for that consistency and quality. If there is a local brewpub, go there and try to work out a deal with the brewer for yeast. I am sure he/she would give a couple of ounces away for your next batch if you promised him/her a couple of homers. Find out when the next brew session is, and walk out with some pretty superior yeast. It is amazing what gratitude will do. Maybe you would impress him/her so much that he/she would design a recipe in your honor, maybe even let you brew a 10 bbl batch with him/her (I doubt it, but anything is possible)! Well in summary, to obtain very high quality yeast, drink a high quality, sedimented beer, and then carefully pour that sediment into a cooled quantity of wort and wait for it to reactivate. Add it to your wort and watch it go. All for the price of a beer that you get to drink! Dave Baer Menlo Park, CA Sun Microsystems Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Jul 89 12:54:00 EDT From: "FEINSTEIN, CHERYL" <crf at gnv.ifas.ufl.edu> Subject: Potential contamination problem; comment invited Hello, all! I should very much like to hear what anyone has to say regarding my experiences with my latest batch of brew, as described below. It should be understood that I tried to maintain my usual standards of sanitation at all times, and that prior to this have never experienced any kind of contamination problem. I am attempting to produce a batch of "Cherries in the Snow," _per_ Papazian. This is my first time including fruit in a wort. The recipe calls for one to boil up one's wort, cooking for 45 min, and then to pour 10lbs of cherries into the hot wort. This brings the temp down (hopefully) to 160-170 deg. F., which one maintains for 15min. This pasteurizes the cherries. One is supposed to try not to let the temp get too high during this 15 min period, as there is the potential for bringing out the cherries' natural pectin, resulting in chill haze in the finished brew. My *only* deviation from the recipe _per se_ was to slit each cherry to the pit, to enable better fermentation of the fruit. The first 5 days of fermentation are supposed to be open-vat, after which time the cherries are fished out with a strainer which has been sterilized by boiling and the brew is racked into a closed vessel for secondary fermentation. This is where things started to get interesting. After racking into the secondary fermenting vessel (a glass jug) and putting the air lock on, I went out of town for the holiday weekend. When I returned, I discovered a white scum on the surface of the brew. The brew itself clarified nicely; the whatever-it-is is *only* on the surface. It seems to cling to the side of the jug; when I tipped the jug slightly it did so. I am now preparing to bottle, under the assumption that this surface material is a wild yeast or other foreign element introduced by the cherries (as opposed to bacterial contamination), and will just see what happens and how the brew tastes in 3 weeks or so. Comments? Thank you! Yours in Carbonation, Cher Feinstein Univ. of Fla. Gainesville, FL INTERNET: CRF at GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU BITNET: CRF at IFASGNV Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 89 15:08:40 EDT From: davidc at northstar79.Dartmouth.EDU (David Carter) I received a request to post this to all, so here goes. . . Three or so years ago, I purchased a Roto-Keg plastic kegging system. It is a five-gallon spherical plastic (I assume food-grade) container with legs built into the bottom, a spigot on the side, and a venting/carbonation system on the top. I think it cost me around $30. Roto-Keg promotes itself as a single-stage fermantation system-- really single stage. Primary and secondary fermentation and carbonation can all occur in the same vessel; the venting system contains a pressure relief valve so that excess carbon dioxide will be vented during fermentation. The one batch I made in the thing didn't work out. It fermented fine, but when the time came to open the spigot, I got a blast of pressurized carbon dioxode. The spigot is supposed to use a floating pickup to which it is attached with a plastic hose. The float is supposed to be placed on the wort before fermentation and once things have died down, one should be able to simply pour the finished product. What had happened to me was that the plastic hose had fallen off on the spigot end, so instead of the pressurized co2 pushing my beer up, it just blasted out. I think that the problem was in the hose-- it seemed too rigid. Probably during the initial fermentation, the float got picked up too high by the krausen and the hose fell off. Looking back, I realize that I should have fixed the hose problem, re-sealed the kag and either tossed in a bit of sugar or found a co2 source to pressurize the keg again. I did not. The beer was dumped, and the plastic keg has sat in an attic ever since. It's probably too scratched up now for me to ever use it with peace of mind. I was disappointed in the system, but perhaps it could be a convenient way to keg beer. A few points: It is plastic, and I think that if I were to use it I would not use it for primary and secondary fermentation. I like glass, and I also do not like the idea of letting my beer sit over the same spent yeasties for any length of time. The keg supposedly works on pressure built up by the co2 discharged in fermentation. I would imagine (and I think I remember something in the instructions that came with the keg) that the pressure would run out before the beer did, and some sort of external co2 source would be required. I think they mentioned small bottles of co2 which they sold, and there was a firring at the top. The address, you ask? There are two on the papers I have: Winemaker Unlimited 999 Maine Road PO Box C-406 Westport, MA 02790 Roto-Keg Ltd. Park Road Rushden North Hamptonshire (England, I assume) I'd be interested in hearing from anyone else who has used this system. Maybe if it's worth it, I'll try to get it up and running. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 89 16:52:37 EDT From: Steve Anthony <steveo at Think.COM> Subject: This just in .... (Not really homebrewing, but beer just the same) British brewers may retain pubs London- The goverment said yesterday that Britain's biggest brewers will not have to sell off 22,000 pubs, as had been recommended as a way of fostering competition among the nation's taverns, most of which are brewery owned. Lord Young, the trade secretary, announced the measures to encourage competition in supplying beer and other drinks, but his measures were not as drastic as those recommended this year by the Monopolies and Mergers Commission. Britain's brewers are allowed to own pubs and to require their tennants to buy beer and drinks only from the owner. Industry critics have called on the goverment to force competition, which would be expected to bring cheaaper prices and wider choices for consumers. Associated Press Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 89 13:32:26 edt From: gateh%CONNCOLL.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU Subject: Needed: Recipe for sake A homebrew friend who does not have access to the NETs asked to me see if there was anyone out there with a recipe for sake, or perhaps a pointer to a good book. Any help would be much appreciated. An aside - I wrote a couple of months back concerning the truly nasty odor my first batch of homebrew displayed. I'm glad to say that it has now been in the bottles about a month, and every bottle is tasting better and better. The odor is almost completely gone, carbonation looks good, just needs a little more hoppiness - other than that, quite drinkable. Another aside - on a recent road-trip to Minnesota, a friend gave me a quarter-barrel (7.8 gal US, I believe). I have a CO2 tap setup in my house already, and since bottling was such a pain, I thought I'd try a keg. I've seen a couple of other people are interested in such a venture. I was just planning to follow normal procedure, except to dump the priming sugar into the keg instead of the bottles - is this okay? Another potential problem is that there will be a significant air space in the keg, since my secondary carboy is only 5 gal. Is this a problem? Any others advice/suggestions concerning the use of kegs would be wonderful. Thanks again for all the help - Gregg *=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=* Gregg TeHennepe | Academic Computing and User Services Minicomputer Specialist | Box 5482 BITNET: gateh at conncoll | Connecticut College Phone: (203) 447-7681 | New London, CT 06320 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 89 13:06:10 CDT From: Steve Conklin <hpfcla!hplabs!amdahl!uunet!tesla!steve> Subject: source of kegging and brewing equipment Ted Estes writes: > A while back, there was a discussion on the mailing list about acquiring > all the hardware necessary for kegging (and dispensing) one's homebrew. > Unfortunately, I (foolishly) didn't save any of the information. Now > I want to keg! Would someone, perhaps, have those newsletters archived > somewhere, and would that someone be kind enough to send them on to me? > > Thanks a whole bunch. > > Ted Estes > Skokie, IL > att!ttrdf!estes OR arpa!estes at ttrdf.att.com This is probably a good time to repeat the address and phone number for the RAPIDS Company. I have no connection with these people. RAPIDS is a wholesale bar and restaurant supply company, and they sell just about any kind of kegging equipment you can think of. When I bought my kegging system (soda cans - the only way to go), I ordered the components from a mail-order homebrew supply house, and the gas bottle, regulator, soda can, and associated equipment cost somewhere around $200. I later bought a second soda can for another $48. Both soda cans were used, and one of them was sort of bent up. RAPIDS sells NEW 5 gal soda cans for $57, and I think that you could put together a system from them for about $150. They sell equipment for use with all commercial beer kegs, also. They also sell stainless kettles, and too many other things to list. Here is a list of prices for their stainless kettles: size kettle lid 8 Qt $37.00 $08.75 12 Qt $38.00 $11.50 16 Qt $41.50 $13.25 20 Qt $46.00 $13.25 24 Qt $49.50 $15.25 40 Qt $66.50 $17.50 64 Qt $210.00 $26.50 80 Qt $268.00 $26.50 The number for RAPIDS is 1-800-553-7906. They will send you a free catalog. Their address is: 1011 2nd Ave. S.W. P.O. box 396 Cedar Rapids, Iowa 52406 You won't regret going to kegs. It takes me 30 minutes from start to finish, including cleanup, to keg a batch. It used to be a minimum 2 hour job to bottle. If you need help figuring out what you need, drop me email, and I'll try to help out. Maybe I'll put together a list of needed items and total the cost. Steve Conklin uunet!ingr!tesla!steve Intergraph Corp. tesla!steve at ingr.com Huntsville, AL 35807 W (205) 772-4013 H (205) 461-8698 Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #199, 07/12/89
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