HOMEBREW Digest #2009 Fri 12 April 1996

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Homebrew Digest #2008 (April 11, 1996) -Reply (DENNIS WALTMAN)
  mault and lager (Stetson)
  EBC to Revise Language (GSHUTELOCK)
  converted keg brewing system (shelby & gary)
  Sierra Nevada Porter (Gregory King)
  Malt Extract as "Distinctive Food" (David C. Harsh)
  Gravity, Wyeast 1968 ("Kirk Harralson")
  Deal... (RUSt1d?)
  Glow-in-the-Dark Labels ("Kirk Harralson")
  Skunks (Pierre Jelenc)
  Diluting to Lower Gravity / Light-Struck Outdoor Brewing? (KennyEddy)
  re:DC & Williamsburg (MSMHRN01.RADAMS01)
  Re: Barley Flakes (Mark E. Thompson)
  Watney's/canning wort/skunking & possible remedy??? (Brian K. Pickerill)
  Abita beer (guym)
  Homebrew Submission (MSMHRN01.RADAMS01)
  Fermentaps, Oats, and Molasses (HuskerRed)
  BOTTLE BAKING (Mike Spinelli)
  Dead Skunks/Gravity Adjustment (Algis R Korzonas)
  Fairfax,VA /Water Testing/Gluconate (A. J. deLange)
  Frugal All grain brewing (Brian K. Pickerill)
  Spigots (DONBREW)
  RE:keeping my cool (KDDrakes)

****************************************************************** * POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** ################################################################# # # YET ANOTHER NEW FEDERAL REGULATION: if you are UNSUBSCRIBING from the # digest, please make sure you send your request to the same service # provider that you sent your subscription request!!! I am now receiving # many unsubscribe requests that do not match any address on my mailing # list, and effective immediately I will be silently deleting such # requests. # ################################################################# NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS hpfcmgw! Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 04:16:31 -0400 From: DENNIS WALTMAN <PDWALTMAN at sablaw.com> Subject: Homebrew Digest #2008 (April 11, 1996) -Reply I will not be in the office 4/11/96. If you have a rush or emergency please call the Help Line at 8773 or 404-853-8773. I should be back in the office by 9:30 am on 4/12/96. Dennis Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 06:32:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Stetson <stetson at globalone.net> Subject: mault and lager Hello, I am a blind homebrewer and just did my first lager this past Monday. Because I am blind, I rely on my wife to read me the labels when I am logging my recipes/procedures/ingredients on my computer. When she was reading the mault can to me, she happened to look at the bottom of the can, and it was stamped with October, 1994. I immediately aborted the process so I could call someone the next day seeings though this was my first dealing with an old can of mault. I called around to some supply stores and got the following answers: if the can isn't buldging, its fine you'll probably get a cardboardy tase from it bring it back immediately the hop additives are dead, but the mault is fine Could someone please give me some more imput on this matter? Also I just obtained a new refrigerator, thats why I'm doing my first lager, and I can only get the temp up to 42-44 degrees. Is this temp alright, just longer fermentation, or should I try to find another means of lagering? Thanks in advance! Eric stetson at global1.net happy brewing! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 08:58:17 -0400 From: GSHUTELOCK at aol.com Subject: EBC to Revise Language In what amounts to a sweeping reform of the brewing industry, the European Brewing Convention (EBC) has announced that it has chosen English as the standard language for the European brewing industry. The EBC has commissioned a feasibility study on ways to make communications between member countries more efficient. Although endorsing English as the new standard, EBC officials have pointed out that English spelling is unnecessarily difficult - for example, cough, plough, rough, through and thorough. What the EBC feels is clearly needed is a phased program of changes to iron out these anomalies. The program is being administered by a committee staffed by respected brewers from participating countries. In the first year of implementation, the committee has recommended using 's' instead of the soft 'c'. Sertainly, brewers in all sities will selebrate on resieving this news. Then the hard 'c' would be replaced by 'k' sinse both letters are pronounsed alike. Not only will this klear up konfusion in the minds of klerikal workers, but typewriters and komputers kould be made with one less letter. Assuming there would be growing enthusiasm when in the sekond year, it kould be announsed that the troublesome 'ph' would henseforth be written 'f'. This would make words lik 'Fil's Filler' twenty per sent shorter in print. In the third year, publik akseptanse of the new spelling kan be expekted to reash the stage where more komplikated shanges are possible. The European Brewing Konvention would enkourage the removal of double letters which have always been a deterent to akurate speling. We would al agre that the horible mes of silent 'e's in the languag is disgrasful. Therefor the EBK would drop thes and we kould kontinu to read and writ as though nothin had hapend. By this tim it would be four years sins the skem began and peopl would be reseptive to steps sutsh as replasing 'th' by 'z'. Perhaps zen ze funktion of 'w' kould be taken on by 'v', vitsh is, after al, half a 'w'. Shortly after zis, ze unesesary 'o'kould be dropd from words kontaining 'ou'. Similar arguments vud of kors be aplid to ozer kombinations of leters. Kontinuing zis proses yer after yer, ve vud eventuli hav a reli sensibl riten styl. After tventi yers zer vud be no mor trubls, difikultis and evrivun vud fin it ezi tu understand ech ozer. Ze drems of the Uropn Brurs Konvenzun vil finali hav kum tru. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 02:24:55 -0400 From: shelby & gary <gjgibson at ioa.com> Subject: converted keg brewing system I really appreciate the time and effort Marty Tippin put into their = write ups on the converted keg systems at the brewery. They have been a = great help in planning my own system. I would like to explain my future = system and see if you find any problems. I am trying to do this as = cheaply as possible, so I am cutting many corners in the process. I = plan on buying two cajon cooker style burners and switch one back and = forth from the hot liquer tank to the boil kettle. This will be an all = gravity fed system. This will be acheived by making a "swing set" style = frame out of four by fours. I will place a pully above each kettle and = have a steel cable which can be switched to any of the kettles. This = cable will be attached to a crank and mounted to the frame. When ever I = want to transfer liquid, I crank the kettle off the ground and gravity = feed. Where I am running into problems is deciding on the type of false bottom = to use. The microbrewery here uses one of these systems to do test = batches. His false bottom is an old SS bowl with holes punched into it. = He says it works great and spending money on such a product is not = worth it. My mom has an old pot that has a 9 inch lid to it that looks = great. If she will not let me have it, I am sure one can be bought for = less than fifteen dollars. What diameter would work best with the = sankey kegs and how would you get a good seal between the lid and the = keg, or will the weight of the grain and water be good enough? For the boil kettle, should this same false bottom be used. I sometimes = use hop pellets. Should I convert to only whole hops and use this = system or fabricate a easymasher type system. I understand that = scorching is a problem with easymasher setups. For this reason, should = this setup be avoided? What precautions should be taken to prevent rusting where the kegs have = been drilled, cut, welded, etc? =20 Thanks for the help, Shelby Asheville, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 1996 18:10:48 -0500 (EST) From: Gregory King <GKING at ARSERRC.Gov> Subject: Sierra Nevada Porter Hello Fellow Homebrewers, I was wondering if any of you have come up with a Sierra Nevada Porter clone? Post here or e-mail as you see fit. TIA, Greg King gking at arserrc.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 09:19:45 -0400 From: dharsh at alpha.che.uc.edu (David C. Harsh) Subject: Malt Extract as "Distinctive Food" Greetings, Collective- I was interested to hear that old cans of malt extract have been labelled as food additives. A good friend of mine has a prohibition-era picture of Crosley Field, where the Cincinnati Reds played before Riverfront. One of the storefronts visible has a large sign advertising malt extract and hops with a subheading along the line of "so you can make IT!" Similarly, one of the major reasons that there are still 100 year old Zinfandel vines in California is that many vineyard owners would fill wagons up with their harvest and go into the Italian sector of San Fran. and sell the grapes to the populace. I'm sure that the 'home grape juice' hobby was common in many areas as well as the preparation of 'distinctive foods'. Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 09:48:05 EST From: "Kirk Harralson" <kwh at smtpgwy.roadnet.ups.com> Subject: Gravity, Wyeast 1968 Ken Schwartz writes: <snip> >If we want a 1.075 OG (75 points) in 5 gallons with 36-point grain and 80% >efficiency, >POUNDS = (75 x 5) / (36 x 80/100) = 13 pounds >This is the 5-gallon FINAL RECIPE gravity; your 6-1/2 gallon BOIL gravity >will be lower since it gets more concentrated as it boils off the water. The >BOIL gravity is >BG(POINTS) = (RECIPE GAL / BOIL GAL) x RECIPE OG(POINTS) >BG(SG) = 1 + BG(points)/1000 >For the 1.075 OG wort, we'll look for 5/6.5 x 75 = 58 points (1.058 SG) in >the boiler just after sparging 6-1/2 gal wort. Remember that most >hydrometers are calibrated at 60 degrees F so chill the sparge sample before >reading, or consult a correction table. This approach is almost identical to mine, with one exception. In my setup, I lose between .75 and 1 gallon in "sludge" (hot break, spent hops, etc.). I plan on either a higher final kettle volume than I want in my primary, or a higher final gravity in the kettle to which I can add boiled and chilled water to hit both target gravity and volume. Of course, YMMV. ============================================================= Al Korzonas writes: >Walter writes about his experience with Wyeast London ESB #1968: <snip> >>when I got a copy of the Wyeast yeast profiles pamphlet which says that 1968 >>is so flocculant that additional aeration and agitation is needed. <snip> >The Wyeast pamphlet is wrong about the aeration. Aeration is not required, >just rousing. If you swirl the carboy to get the yeast back into suspension >that should be sufficient. As long as you don't remove the airlock, the >headspace will be all CO2 and you won't be aerating. The only time I used 1968, I had to wait a couple of extra days between popping the Wyeast pouch and pitching into a starter. When I snipped the pouch and poured into my starter, I noticed the liquid was brown as usual, but very clear. After aerating the starter, I cut the pouch open out of curiosity -- most of the yeast was caked onto the inside of the pouch! I had never seen anything like this before. I doubt I will ever use this strain again, but if I do, I will shake the %#%^& out of the pouch before I pitch it. Kirk Harralson Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 08:48:51 -0400 From: RUSt1d? <rust1d at swamp.li.com> Subject: Deal... >beer. Direct sunlight will skunk hops in short order; flourescent lights Why don't hops on the vine get skunked? I think it's the isomertized alpha acids in beer that skunk. I left my whole hops in zip lock bags in the sun for 3 hours or so while mashing and did not notice any off tastes. What gives? I had a dream that I quit my job and became a professional brewer. Then the next afternoon, out of the blue, I get offered a 100 gallon stainless steel kettle from the dairy industry for $125. I bought it. The thing even has a stainless valve at the bottom so it could be used as either a boiling vessel or a mash tun. If I could get a couple more of these I'd be in business. Can any of the pro-brewers out there send me info on what steps are necessary to get licensed and legal? Thanks. Anyone using my homebrew recipe calculator/database? I have recieved no feedback good or bad, except from those people who had problems downloading it. John Varady Boneyard Brewing http://www.netaxs.com/people/vectorsys/index.html Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 10:03:02 EST From: "Kirk Harralson" <kwh at smtpgwy.roadnet.ups.com> Subject: Glow-in-the-Dark Labels Ever so often, people ask about labelling ideas for homebrew. Well, I wouldn't exactly call this labelling, but it turned out pretty cool anyway. My daughter had some fabric paints left over from a craft project. These are available in fabric/craft stores, WalMart, etc.. They are very durable and must be waterproof (they make it through washing machine temps and agitation easily). Just for grins, I took the "glow-in-the-dark" bottle and labelled a few homebrews before a party. This was X-files Ale (the good beer is out there -- you just may have to make it yourself), so an appropriate X was all I drew. The glow in the fridge when it was opened was quite a site. I don't have a light in my beer fridge, which helped a lot. Kirk Harralson Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 10:39:10 EDT From: Pierre Jelenc <pcj1 at columbia.edu> Subject: Skunks In HOMEBREW Digest #2008 KennyEddy at aol.com says: > The hops can be light-struck either before OR > after brewing (or both, I suppose), so be sure your hops are stored out of > the light (wrap in aluminum foil for light-tightness) and so is your bottled > beer. Direct sunlight will skunk hops in short order; flourescent lights > supposedly can too but it takes longer. If you are already taking these > steps, complain to the store that sold you the skunky hops. Hops cannot be skunked. Only the ISO-alpha acids, which are obtained by isomerization during the boil from the alpha acids present in hop resin, have the proper structure for light-induced cleavage. Pierre Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 11:03:49 -0400 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Diluting to Lower Gravity / Light-Struck Outdoor Brewing? Tim Martin asks: > Would someone out there please help? I would like to > reduce the O.G. from .60 to about .45. I would like to do this > at priming time. I have about 2.75 gal. of beer in the 'boy > now fermenting. I'm thinking of adding a half gal. of > sugar/water at bottling but this is only a guess. Can > someone send more accurate calculations? Dilution is the answer (duh) and here's the drill: To take GAL gallons (or any volumatric units) down from gravity SG1 to gravity SG2, add enough clean plain water to make a total volume VOL of VOL = GAL x (1-SG1)/(1-SG2) In your case you want 2.75 gal to go from (I assume) 1.060 to 1.045. So add enoug water to make a total of VOL = 2.75 x (1 - 1.060)/(1 - 1.045) = 3.67 gal total Note that this is the *total* of the wort and the makeup water, not the water itself. **************** There's been some discussion of light-struck hops here recently. I was just wondering whether you brewers who brew outside with your gas-fired systems ever have any problem with light-struck hops? A hour or so exposure while boiling would seem to be asking for trouble, yet no one seems to have this problem. Any thoughts? Ken Schwartz KennyEddy at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 11:20:47 -0400 From: MSMHRN01.RADAMS01 at eds.com Subject: re:DC & Williamsburg On Tue, 9 Apr 1996 07:50:59 -0400, Bob McCowan writes: > >We're heading to Williamsburg and DC in a couple of weeks and I'd like >advice on good micros and brewpubs to try. >Thanks >Bob >bob.mccowan at cfrp.varian.com There are several - hope you have a couple days. I can only vouch for the DC area. In the district, there are 2 Brewpubs: Capitol City Brewing & Dock Street Brewing. I was just at both last week and are very good. The food recommendation seems to be Capitol over Dock at the present time - but be sure to ask the price of any lunch specials. I got burned for $26 on a pair of crab cakes for lunch! The most expensive item on the menu is $15 - sandwiches around 5-7. Capitol has about 6 beers pouring; Dock St. has about 7 or 8 plus a hand-pulled cask-conditioned item that changes. Last week was a delicious Dark Mild. I thoroughly enjoyed Capitols Amber Waves - malty & hoppy. There are many beer bars, the most notable being The Brickskeller at 22nd & P Streets, at DuPont Circle (Embassy Row area). Over 500 bottled beers from everywhere. A bit out of town in Arlington is Bardo Rodeo - a place you must experience at least once! Maybe 15 or so of their own beers, each as unique as the place itself. An old car dealership turned bar, it offers huge seating, happy hour pints at 1.80 + tax, 30-40 pool tables, and wall murals that create nightmares! Nearby Bardo is Blue-N-Gold Brewing, but I've not been there yet. If you've the time, a tour of one of, if not THE east coast's best microbrewery, Old Dominion Brewery is a definite hit. It is located in Ashburn, VA, about a 30 minute drive out the Dulles toll road (85 cents). Every beer produced here is a winner. It is unfortunate that their Dominion Brown Ale has disappeared by now - a classic Belgian Brown with candied sugar was like having "local" Corsendonk Monk's Brown ! Also right down the road from Dominion is Potomac Brewing in Chantilly. A bit smaller, but they produce a nice Red and a good Porter. Details: Capitol City Brewing: 202.628.2222, 1100 NewYorkAve, next/behind the Convention Ctr. Dock Street: 202.639.0403, 1299 Pennsylvania Ave, under Warner Thtr, about 3 blks from above. Brickskeller: 202.293.1885, 1523 22nd St. NW at Dupont Circle/Embassy Row. Bardo Rodeo: 703.527.9399, 2000 Wilson Blvd. 1 blk East from Courthouse Metro Stn. Virginia Beverage: 703.684.5397, new brewpub in Alexandria/OldTown. Blue-N-Gold: 703.908.4995, 3100 Clarendon Blvd, Arlington/Clarendon. Old Dominion: 703.689.1225, Ashburn behind big post office. Potomac River: 703.631.5430, about 5-7 miles from Dominion - same trip. Steamship: 804.623.3430, in Norfolk, SE of Williamsburg. Cheers, Rick Adamson Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 8:16:24 PDT From: Mark E. Thompson <markt at hptal04.cup.hp.com> Subject: Re: Barley Flakes Full-Name: Mark E. Thompson From: "Braam Greyling" <ACG at knersus.nanoteq.co.za> > Subject: Barley flakes > > Hi beerboys (oops! and beergirls) > > I am going to brew my 4th all grain batch soon. I got some barley > flakes from the guy who supply me with grain. I am not sure what > quantities I should use. I also have some wheat malt, chocolate malt > crystal malt and Cara-Vienna malt. > I only do infusion mash. All my malts are fully modified, I think ! > What quantities of the flakes should I use ? What effect will it have > on my beer ? How will it influence the taste, body, colour and head ? > Can I use it with infusion mash ? > I brew 5 gallon batches. You didn't say what type of beer you are making so i'll speculate that you want to make a stout. Here's what i did on my last one that i thought came out nicely. 65% Brit. Pale Ale (could have been american) 25% Flaked Barley 10% Roasted Barley. I mashed at around 150 and added the roast at mash out rise. In retrospect i would have added the roast half at mash in half at raise. What the flaked barley did was to give it the most incredible moosey head. I think that single infusion is fine. I use health food store flakes (cheaper). I don't know about the taste because i have never done a side by side comparison. I have also used flaked barley (8-10%) in german pilsners. Mark Thompson Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 10:44:59 -0600 From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian K. Pickerill) Subject: Watney's/canning wort/skunking & possible remedy??? William D Gladden <W_GLADDEN at Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US> asked in HBD 2007 about a Watney's red barrel clone. I have no recipe for it, but would be interested. I was shocked to hear someone write a while back that it was not considered a good beer in Britian. I know there is some stiff competition, but I always enjoyed Watney's when I had the opportunity... - --- paa3765 at dpsc.dla.mil (Steve Adams) asks, also in 2007, >I'm interested in canning wort for the usual reasons. Does anyone have some >handy instructions and tips on how to do this? I don't think you will find wort listed in the Ball guide to canning... Too bad. Whenever I've done it, I have always played on the safe side though, preferring to pressure cook for 1 hour rather than risk deadly, tasteless, odorless, botulism toxin. It's worth repeating that botulism is extremely dangerous. Probaby less time in the pressure cooker would be enough, but I don't want to bet my life on it. - --- in HBD 2008 Ray Cooper said: [snip] >I ended up throwing these two batches out as I still have never seen any >>information as to how to get rid of that flavor [skunk] once it's >affected your >beer. Funny, I remember reading here very recently where someone said that extended lagering (perhaps just storage--literally, maybe not necessarily cold storage as we commonly think of lagering) will get rid of it or help get rid of it. That was intriguing, and no one challenged it (as I recal) so perhaps it could work. It would be worth an experiment. Skunk 2 or more bottles on purpose, open and taste one to make sure it is skunked, then lager the other one(s) and try them after various periods of (dark!) storage. I'm very skeptical though, since it seems that once that chemical is produced it would not likely get absorbed or changed back into a non-offensive flavor. Then again, stranger things happen to our beers. For most of us, it's not a problem after we learn about skunking initially. The other thing is, for me at least, it was a LOT easier drinking skunked beer before I knew about the phenomenon! I know I drank many skunked Grolshes in my pre-brewing days. Now, I doubt if I could handle half a bottle. Damn, I wish I'd have saved those bottles... - --Brian Pickerill, Newsletter Editor, Muncie Malt Mashers, Muncie, IN Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 14:33:11 MDT From: guym at Exabyte.COM Subject: Abita beer Daniel Goodale writes: > Last weekend a friend and I took a trip > to New Orleans to catch the scene around Easter. > On Saturday, we went to Abita Springs to catch the > Abita Brewery tour. I can easily get Abita here in > Texas and was about all I drank while working in > Alabama <snip> A shame that you didn't try any of Birmingham Brewing's beers while you were in Alabama. Well, actually, you may have. ;-) > Free samples flowed from the tasting > room/employee lounge/latrine. <snip> > The beer was all excellent, however > I was a little disappointed in the TurboDog, it > seemed to have a lot more hop aroma when > I drank it in Anniston Alabama. The reason for that is what you drank in Alabama may very well have been brewed much closer to Anniston than New Orleans. -- Guy McConnell /// Huntersville, NC /// guym at exabyte.com "I passed out in my hammock and, God, I slept 'til way past noon..." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 14:58:44 -0400 From: MSMHRN01.RADAMS01 at eds.com Subject: Homebrew Submission On Wed, 10 Apr 96 10:21:00 PDT, Ray Robert <RayRobert at bah.com> writes: >1. I use my bottling bucket to hold my sparge water. You know the type >white hdpe bucket with standard plastic spigot. The problem I have is that >is leaks like a sieve when I put hot sparge water in it. I've gone through >5 of these in the last year and a half. The cost is not an issue (they are >only about 3 bucks) but trying to sparge and clean up 170 degree water off >the kitchen floor is not fun. Any recommendations as to a solution for >this. I would like to maintain the same arrangement. Find yourself a Drum Tap at your homebrew shop - it should fit perfectly in the same hole that the standard tap uses. The drum tap withstands the high temp and you dial/turn a knob, not twisting the lever. The drawback is the output side of the drum tap is bigger in OD - you'll need to 'step-down' your hose(s). What I have found to work in the meantime is to take a small 1-hole stopper (I forget the number; used for airlock on the white plastic primary lids) and insert the small end (tightly) into drum tap output. Then push the hose you were using into the bigger end of the stopper (now pointing down). I use this setup for bottling all the time. >2. Had a request for any brewers in the Fairfax VA area: How is the water >in this area and does it require treatment. I hope to avoid a nut roll with >the local water authority (much like the recent experiences on the HBD). > Also any recommended homebrew stores in the area would be a help Can't help with the water, but BrewAmerica in Vienna is a big help to the whole area. They are on Church St., next to the Red Caboose that sits on the W&OD Trail - in the basement. Worth finding! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 15:24:42 -0400 From: HuskerRed at aol.com Subject: Fermentaps, Oats, and Molasses Hello Friends, I asked a month or so ago for some Fermentap reviews, I got a few responses and requests. Now saw someone asking about them again so I will summarize. Don't bother. They clog up with trub and are hard to get unclogged and they are difficult to get sanitized. What is the difference between oatmeal and flaked oats? Also, when should molasses be added? Cheers, Jason Henning Big Red Alchemy and Brewing They who drink beer will think beer -- Washington Irving Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 16:36:16 -0400 (EDT) From: CHRISTOPHER DIIORIO <pher at acc.msmc.edu> Subject: THANKS TO ALL! Re: Skunky brew I got so many responses to my "Skunky beer" problem that I thought the best place to reply would be here. I am very grateful for all the advice I have gotten! The consensus was that I was most likely leaving the beer exposed to sunlight. As it happens, this batch has been fermenting in a different spot than my others (since I had wanted to keep it cool I put it on my enclosed back porch). The porch is pretty dark but, to be sure there is no sun, I checked every hour or so. I discovered that early in the morning a good beam of light hits the fermenter for about 2 hours. I'll be covering future batches for sure. The Porter that had a similar smell was fermented in my dark closet, but I store my bottles in the same area on my porch. It's very possible that the same thing happened to them. I'm going to go ahead and bottle anyway, and let it sit for a month (IN THE DARK) to see how it tastes. I'll pass the results along. Other ideas included: The "nasties" that could have infected it when I waited 5 days for activity to start. The yeast not performing well at 54 deg. The amount of time it has been fermenting (not long enough). I appreciate all I have heard. I've decided to skip dry yeast all together (except in DIRE emergencies), so none of the possible circumstances can repeat. I'm also building a show rack for my wife (leaving me more room in MY closet). :) Cheers! and Happy Brewing P.S. I'd like to know more about making starters. I tried one a while back, but haven't had much success. Does anyone have a simple way to make and store a starter for a lowly extract brewer such as myself? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 17:33:15 est From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) Subject: BOTTLE BAKING HBDers, I've started a new procedure to combat the drudgery of bottle washing.. Up 'til now, I've been using bleach and rinsing with a jet washer on bottlimg day. Since I triple rinse the bottles as I drink them, then place upside down to air dry, I figured the HELL with bleach!! I'll just bake their asses in the oven. So for the last batch, I inspected 40 clean bottles for any visible bad shit, then covered the tops with a little sqaure of foil. Took out the racks in the oven, placed all 40 in, then heated to 260 deg. F for 1 hour. Turned off the heat and left them in til the follwing night when the wife and I bottled. What a breeze it was! No bleach water, no sprayin' the ceiling and no hassle. Just pull the foil off the tops and fill. So far, none of my bottles have gushed or exploded, so I figure the heat killed any crap that may have beeen in there. So now, as I dring the beers, i triple rinse the bottles at the sink, turn upside , air dry then cap with foil. By the time the next batch is ready to bottle, All I'll have to do is bake 'em for an hour and they're done. Does anyone know of a downside to this technique.? If so, you'll be ruining my day. Mike in Cherry Hill, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 13:33:25 CDT From: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) Subject: Dead Skunks/Gravity Adjustment Ken writes: >The hops can be light-struck either before OR >after brewing (or both, I suppose), so be sure your hops are stored out of >the light (wrap in aluminum foil for light-tightness) and so is your bottled >beer. Direct sunlight will skunk hops in short order; flourescent lights >supposedly can too but it takes longer. If you are already taking these >steps, complain to the store that sold you the skunky hops. Absolutely not. Only *isomerized* alpha acids will react in response to light to create skunky aromas. Therefore, you only need to protect your wort from light after you begin boiling. Think about it... hops aren't grown in the dark... *** Tim writes: >Would someone out there please help? I would like to >reduce the O.G. from .60 to about .45. I would like to do this >at priming time. I have about 2.75 gal. of beer in the 'boy >now fermenting. I'm sure you mean .060 and .045, but what the heck... The way to do this is to figure out how many points you've got and how many gallons you need to get the points you want: (60pts * 2.75 gal)/45points = (165)/45 = 3.67 gallons 3.67 gallons - 2.75 gallons = 0.92 gallons So you want to add just under a gallon. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at pubs.att.com Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 18:19:28 -0500 From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange) Subject: Fairfax,VA /Water Testing/Gluconate I was about to respond to the discussions about water authorities using Fairfax County, VA as an example when Ray Robert's request for info on that very jurisdiction (#2008) came up. The Fairfax County Water Authority is not part of the county government but rather some sort of quasi-corporation. Their personell are helpful on the phone and in person (headquarters is on Rte 50 near the beltway), will put you in touch with their chemists, etc. and seem genuinely interested in serving their customers. They operate 2 processing plants and will furnish a report from either (or both) upon request. The report contains 54 items all of which, except Total Organic Carbon are inorganic or physical parameters. The average for each parameter as well as the minimum and maximum and number of tests that went into the average are included. If the EPA has a primary or secondary stasndard for the parameter, it is listed. The only problem with the reports is that they represent data collected over several months and the maximum alkalinity, for example, may be three times the minimum over that time period and while the statistics tell you in general what the water is like (good for brewing: no treatment required except charcoal filtration to remove chloramine which most people don't bother to do), they don't tell you about what is coming out of the tap on a particular brew day. The report is perhaps more extensive than most but compare with Stephen Palmer's which is also quite complete. This, with other correspondence I have had (including Bob Talkiewicz's post in #2009), leads me to believe that thorough reporting and cooperation is the norm and that the bad experiences of a few people the exception. To return to Stephen's water and the subject of a previous post for a moment, note that his bicarbonate concetration is 61/50 times his total aklakinity If a brewer wants detailed timely water information he has a couple of options. One is a lab and the other is to do it himself. There are numerous water testing labs both local and national. Look in the yellow pages. They may charge $50 - $100 but you will get a good report at a rate of much less than $10/item. The typical manual test today is done by meauring about 25 mL of water into a cuvette to which a packet or two of premeasured chemicals is added. The cuvette then goes into a spectrophotometer which measures the color produced by reaction of the chemistry with the test ion. As Joseph Spears pointed out (also in #2008), these methods are not those of EPA's "Methods for Chemical Analysis of Water and Wastes" but the manufacturers have, in many cases, obtained approval from EPA to use these procedures for reporting purposes (not that brewers typically care about this). The larger labs are able to obtain economy of scale by automating the meaurement processes. The brewer can do most of the water analysis he needs himself. The major parameters of concern are pH, alkalinity, and total hardness. He would also like to know chloride,chlorine, chloramine, and sulfate. Test kits for all these parameters, except sulfate, are available at costs which are not totally absurd. Hardness and chlorine/chloramide test kits can be obtained from pet stores; the others from water testing suppliers like Lamotte, Hach and Cole-Parmer. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Paul Sovcik asked if I had any ideas about what might happen to gluconate in beer. I don't even know what happens when it is administered to humans but would guess that this form is chosen for calcium administration because the gluconate is easily metabolized and it seems likely therefore, that the pathway is the hexose monophosphate (pentose phophate) pathway. Yeast are capable of utilizing this pathway so I am guessing that the fate of gluconate in a wort would be the same. This pathway is used mostly to supply the building blocks of anabolism although glyceraldehyde 3-phophate is formed and this can, presumably, lead to ethanol and CO2. A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore! ajdel at interramp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 17:12:18 -0600 From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian K. Pickerill) Subject: Frugal All grain brewing KennyEddy at aol.com said: >If you can do this for $300 we'd like to learn how! I've got my wife trained >to appreciate homebrew and fine imports so as long as I keep the incremental >costs down I can get away with "making beer cheaper". OK, this probably won't help anyone, but the digest has been a little on the slim side lately anyway. I didn't to this to save money on brewing really, but becuase I couldn't stand to wait any longer. It took me over a year to collect all the stuff. I'm on a real tight budget, and the wife has never even tried the homebrew (I know I should leave her :) so I'll illustrate what a desperate man might do: Total cost: $98--just over half what I've spent on kegging, and none of which cut into the the damned budget. Brinkman Cooker: $48 at Meijer. (I'd have gotten it at the hombrew shop had I known it was there at the time.) I got this for my birthday, so I didn't have to justify it as an extra expense. Coronna Mill: $38 at Homebrewery of IN. This was another gift. Christmas this time. Actually, I got 2 of them. One of them my good buddy at the Home Brewery took back on exchange. **Shameless plug** send an order to Kurt at the Homebrewery of IN and you won't go wrong. How these guys can stay in business with brewers like me is a mystery, but I hope they do. Old Coleman 48 qt cooler: $0. I already had that in the attic. Copper pipe fits the spigot perfectly, no mods necessary. Racking hose also fits the inside of the spigot perfectly. Poke around a bit, and you may fine serendipity. Coper pipe for the Coleman mashtun: $2 I already had some of the elbow and tee pieces, or it would have been a couple extra bucks. NOTE: You can often pick up spare brewing stuff at the hardware store so long as you are going there to pick up home improve- ment stuff all the time anyway. I get stuff like saw blades, files, etc... for brewing all the time when I go there for home improvement projects. (Insert grunts like Tim the toolman Taylor!) Beaten up Keg: $6 deposit. Yes, this was legal, I got it at the distributor. They were happy to get the $6 for it. The bottom chine was a bit of a problem in that it didn't fit on the ring type burner I got (I'd recommend the other style). But, me and the ole ball-peen hammer worked it out. (Insert more grunts here.) MISC: $4 pH test strips (homebrewery shop) & Iodine (only like .89c). Also, I'm only out $6 for stuff that has no use with extract batches! I cut the top of the keg out with a regular jigsaw. That was a royal pain, (most grunting of all) but hey, it worked. Folks here tell me that I should cut the top completely off with my circular saw. Maybe someday. A much bigger priority is getting the spigot installed. At this point I'm still racking from the keg, which is a real drag, but it hasn't stopped me from trying all grain. I already had a chiller--it only cost about $12 to put together, and (you guessed it) the wife didn't even know I tacked it onto another project. What the hell, when I do $600 bottling room (kitchen?) improvements for $75, what's an extra $12 for the wifey to complain about? She knows better than to say a WORD about that! Cheers, (and thanks for the bandwidth...) - --Brian Pickerill, Newsletter Editor, Muncie Malt Mashers, Muncie, IN Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 22:44:22 -0400 From: DONBREW at aol.com Subject: Spigots Ray Robert <RayRobert at bah.com> sez: >1. I use my bottling bucket to hold my sparge water. You know the type >white hdpe bucket with standard plastic spigot. The problem I have is that >is leaks like a sieve when I put hot sparge water in it. I've gone through >5 of these in the last year and a half. The cost is not an issue (they are >only about 3 bucks) but trying to sparge and clean up 170 degree water off >the kitchen floor is not fun. Any recommendations as to a solution for >this. I would like to maintain the same arrangement. Well, what I would do is go to the local mega hardware store and get a "boiler drain", some conduit nuts and a neoprene (or such) gasket. Take one of those white gaskets that come with the bottling spigot with you to make sure you get the right sizes (1/2"?). You will probably need to put one conduit nut on the outside of the "boiler drain" to provide enuf shoulder for the gasket. If I remember correctly one of the plastic nuts from your old bottling spigots will fit on the inside, or you can be adventurous and use a conduit nut (I do). There is a difference between a "hose bib"/faucet/spigot and a "boiler drain". The "boiler drain" lets the water flow straight thru while a "hose bib" has a silt trap in it. If you look hard enuf you may be able to find a drain made out of "cellulose" instead of brass. Oh yeah, maybe it is not obvious but make sure you get one with a male fitting (I think all "boiler drains" are of the male variety). Then get fittings to make your hose fit . Don Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 22:58:56 -0400 From: KDDrakes at aol.com Subject: RE:keeping my cool I'm just catching up after a trip out of town; apologies for being behind. In #1998 Clay Crenshaw asks about keeping his wort cool. If you have Web access, go to The Brewery and look for plans for a fermentation cooler. It's made from 2" foam insulation and keeps a carboy full of fermenting wort cool using ice in milk jugs, a fan and a common heat/cool thermostat. I built one using spare parts (I bought the foam new for $10); all new will run about $60. It has worked ok so far, the Oklahoma summer will be the real test. If you're Web deficient, E-mail me and I'll send you a copy of the plans. Kerry Drake Return to table of contents