HOMEBREW Digest #2020 Thu 25 April 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Hoogstraten Poorter Comments (DAVE BRADLEY IC742 6-7932)
  re: Art's Carbonator Problem (tgaskell)
  Wild Rice Beer (Mike Urseth)
  Beer Nutrients / Bud billboard ("Edmund C. Hack")
  Homebrew Chat on the www (ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT)
  Re: Sam Smith skunks plaid clad fermenters ("Patrick G. Babcock")
  Cool Tap Handles (Summary) ("Clark D. Ritchie")
  Floating "sediment" question (Michael_Evans)
  Non Alcoholic Beverages.... (Aesoph, Michael)
  Subject: Kegs - Ball vs. Pin Lock ("Brian P. Colgan")
  Guiness Screen Saver - Windows (DAVE BRADLEY IC742 6-7932)
  Malt Aroma (John Forbes)
  glucans/proteins (Jim Busch)
  Hefeweizen Recipe? ("Patrick E. Humphrey")
  Re: Long slow fermentation, Bottling for competition (Jim Dipalma)
  Samuel Adams' Cream Stout (Bob Grabhorn)
  Chill Haze (RHEINZ)
  Why Some Clear-bottled Beer Does Not Become Lightstruck (Ken Parsons)
  Possible <gasp> infection? (Craig Stewart)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 13:49:36 +0000 (GMT) From: DAVE BRADLEY IC742 6-7932 <BRADLEY_DAVID_A at Lilly.com> Subject: Hoogstraten Poorter Comments This past weekend I enjoyed a beer new to me, finding it tasty and intriguing in profile. Yes, it is Belgian in origin. ::Hoogstraten Poorter, brewed by Brewery Sterkens in Hoogstraten. For those who have tried it, what did you think? It seems to be unique, reminiscent of an Abbey dubble to me...golden but with more amber striations...not highly attenuated like Duval, etc. This beer being unlike a "typical" porter, I wonder if its label of porter was meant to imply this beer's kinship to an Abbey ale without any of that "was it then truly Monk-brewed in the Abbey?" I'd be interested in any of your impressions of this product! Private Email is probably most appropriate. Dave in Indy Home of the "3-D BBB" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 10:25:18 EDT From: tgaskell at e3sa.elab.syr.ge.com Subject: re: Art's Carbonator Problem In HBD #2019, SSLOFL at ccmail.monsanto.com sez: > 3 Let sit for 1 or 2 days at 30 psi (high CO2 on purpose) etc., regarding using a Carbonator to force carbonate root beer in 2 Liter bottles. May I humbly suggest that you re-pressurize the bottles to 30 psi at least once a day, for the first few days that you chill them. I have not used bottles for root beer in a while (don't ask, it was REALLY bad), instead I force carbonate 4 gallons of RB in a 5 gallon corny keg (more headspace and surface area for the CO2 to be absorbed). The amount of CO2 that was dissolved into the RB was amazing, and RB requires quite a bit of CO2 to form a good head, at least a lot more than beer. Also, chilling allows more CO2 to dissolve into the liquid. After a day or so in the fridge with a single blast of CO2, the bottles will become pretty squishy with most of the CO2 absorbed into the RB. My kids (I swear the kids are "Root Beer Geeks") made faces before the carbonation was where they wanted it (they would probably call a cask conditioned bitter flat), but now they are into the stuff all the time. Pretty soon they should have the keg emptied, then I can fill it with wit! 8^) Cheers, Tom Gaskell Hog Heaven Homebrew Picobrewery Clayville, NY, USA "What we don't like are crafty marketers duping the consumers." - August Busch IV. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 09:30:08 -0600 From: beernote at realbeer.com (Mike Urseth) Subject: Wild Rice Beer >Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:14:40 -0500 >From: "Keith Royster" <keith.royster at ponyexpress.com> >Subject: wild rice beer / Guinness screen saver > >A friend of mine recently asked me to search the net for information >on brewing with wild rice. Apparently he has a friend from up north >that will be visiting him soon and they are bringing a big bag of A couple of brewers in the Midwest make wild rice beer (James Page in Minnesota and Capital Brewing of Middleton, WI). They both boil the rice up ahead of mashing and add it to the mash tun. It does add an interesting, sort of nutty, flavor. They don't use anywhere near 1/2 wild rice, though. Maybe 5-10% maximum. Good luck. Mike Urseth Editor & Publisher Midwest Beer Notes 339 Sixth Avenue Clayton, WI 54004 715-948-2990 ph. 715-948-2981 fax e-mail: beernote at realbeer.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 07:11:40 -0700 (PDT) From: "Edmund C. Hack" <echack at crl.com> Subject: Beer Nutrients / Bud billboard A couple of beer nutrient opinions and questions. On Flavenoids: Flavenoids are, from what I have been able to gather, sort-of vitamins. There are lots of them, they are only now being understood. Some are believed to be anti-oxidants, which is why they are thought to help in preventing heart disease. The ranking of goodness in alcohol is, IIRC from an article in Wine Spectator: - Red wine - most help, high in flavenoids - Darker beers - good amount of help - White wine - pretty much tied with Dark beers - Lighter beers - some help - Distilled spirits - better than not drinking, it is thought that it is the alcohol that provides the protection. (BTW, cholesterol is an alcohol!) The recommended "doses" are one to two glasses of wine or beer per day. Go much over that and there are bad effects. This may be the explanation for why heart disease rates are lower in France, where the diet is pretty unhealthy by US standards. The latest piece of evidence that helped the FDA to come over to recommending moderate alcohol consumption was a long term study in Denmark of 10-20K adults that confirmed all this. My guess is that the flavenoids would be found in the non-starchy parts of the grain. Beers brewed with adjuncts would be lower in them. That said: Don't drink and drive. Fasten your seat belts. Remember the Pueblo! A question on beer nutrition: I have a need to find out the carbohydrate content of beers for dietary reasons. The only one I have found is, alas, Miller Lite at 3.2 grams/can. Given that it is 1/3 less tasty, IMHO, than regular American Lager, I avoid it. Anyone know of where I can dig out this info? Info on Anchor, Red Hook and Celis products would be great. Latest shot over the bow of small brewers: New billboard in town: A sweaty Bud longneck on it's side, with the caption: "Hand crafted at a brewery near you." With all due respect to the great job that AB does in producing a consistent product on a large scale, I don't really think of their brewery on I-10 as "hand crafting" beer in a 15 story plant with attached grain silos. Edmund Hack - echack at crl.com - Houston, TX "Watching their faces, I was turning over aces." - Al Stewart Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 09:58:44 -0500 From: ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT <skotrat at wwa.com> Subject: Homebrew Chat on the www Hey all, I don't know if this will be a succes but I have added a Homebrew Chat to my homebrew pages. You can find it at: http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ Any input on the chat would be great. There is one rule in the chat... NO PLAID. Thanks, Scott #################################################### # Scott Abene # # skotrat at wwa.com # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat # # (Skotrats Official Homebrew "Beer Slut" Webpage) # # "Get off your dead ass and brew" # #################################################### Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 10:59:31 -0400 From: "Patrick G. Babcock" <pbabcock at ford.com> Subject: Re: Sam Smith skunks plaid clad fermenters In hbd 2019, Dave Benson sez: > Doesn't Samuel Smith Brewery (and probably other breweries) use clear bottles? > Why wouldn't these "skunk"? To wit,delving deep into the pit of brewing knowledge, I spew forth the following bit of incredibly relevant and previously hidden knowledge: They do. - ------- On a more serious note: Beware the plaid clad fermenters, yea verily! for they come. The camera is no longer in position to "see" the fermenter where it has moved to. A strange scuffling sound can be heard on the staircase. A noxious odor creeps under the door ('course that could be that pile of laundry). I have not the courage to open the door, but I fear that that soon will be inevitable... Beware... -p pbabcock at oeonline.com (C) Copyright, copywrong - who's to say? It's a moral dilemma... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 08:12:38 -0700 From: "Clark D. Ritchie" <ritchie at ups.edu> Subject: Cool Tap Handles (Summary) All, I received more requests to pass along responses on this topic than I did actual leads. Anyhow, here's a brief summary of the feedback I did get... CDR ****** Wade Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com>: "I just received a catalog from the Golden Lion Authentic Pub Paraphernalia, and they have a few, along with other stuff. They have a toll free number: 800-694-4255." ****** Gregg A. Howard <102012.3350 at CompuServe.COM>: "The people who have lots of tap handles are the ones who set up and service draft systems for your local taverns. Look in the yellow pages under "Beer Dispensing and Cooling Systems" and "Beverage Dispensers and Supplies". You also might try "Beer & Ale -- Whsle" and try to find a sympathetic salesman who would help you out; the major brands are always trying to come up with new eye-catching designs to induce impulse sales to "undecideds" who wander up to a bar for a cold one." ****** Tim Martin <martin at wcu.campus.mci.net>: "I see advertisements all the time in Zymurgy for handles and I believe custom handles." ****** Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>: "Many micros will sell you their handles. I bought one each from Sierra and Red Hook for about 25-30 bucks each. I think Sierra does mail order." ****** Kerry Drake <KDDrakes at aol.com>: "I found a company that makes the ceramic tap handles on the Web once while I was surfing around for brewery stuff, I don't have the address or name any more, but a web search should get you to them." ...so I checked it out (http://www.helix.net/chrislan/) and it looks like they have pretty cool stuff. However, they responded to my inquiry with: "Sorry Clark, we only sell large quantities to Breweries. Mind you for all the requests I get we should start selling them to home brewers like your self. Maybe one day down the road." ****** Rich Byrnes <rich.byrnes at e-mail.com>: "making your own is a neat way to go." Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie at ups.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Apr 96 11:12:50 EDT From: Michael_Evans at FRB-MAIN-2.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM Subject: Floating "sediment" question Hello to All, I recently brewed and bottled my first beer (Bohemian Pilsner) with a friend that is quite experienced in the art of homebrewing. After a week or so of letting the beer carbonate at room temperature, I decided to take a look at a bottle to note any activity (clearing up and sediment formation). To my surprise, I found a bottle that had a thick, flowing object that was about 4-5 inches long and 1/2-1 inches wide floating in the center of my bottle. I asked two other brewers about this phenomenon, but they had never heard of this nor could tell me why this happened. After looking at other bottles and noticing a strong blanket of sediment, I thought something went on in that bottle that simply make the blanket float up and stand elongated. Is this a common occurrence? If so, why does this happen? Is it an indication that something may be wrong with that particular bottle of beer, like contamination? By the way, I popped open my first bottle last night and was very pleased with my first creation. Perfect color, carbonation, and hoppiness. Happy Brewing, Mike Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Apr 96 11:29:52 EDT From: aesoph at ncemt1.ctc.com (Aesoph, Michael) Subject: Non Alcoholic Beverages.... Dear Great Collective: I would like some recipes for non-alcoholic beverages such as root beer, cream soda, fruit flavored sodas, etc. My wife used to enjoy home made beverages, but is now breast feeding. I'd like something to substitute. I've checked Cat's Meow and some other smaller sites, but there's not much there. Please advise! Mike Aesoph Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 11:17:26 EST From: "Brian P. Colgan" <bcolgan at sungard.com> Subject: Subject: Kegs - Ball vs. Pin Lock Stephen Palmer writes: Subject: Kegs - Ball vs. Pin Lock "I know this was beaten to death a while back, but I don't have access to the archives, and am about to invest in a kegging system. The store I am going to buy from has both, with only a $1 price differance. Which should I get? Ball Lock, or Pin Lock?" I just bought several Ball Lock kegs as part of a kegging system, for the main reason that they have a manual pressure release valve. I strongly recommend to anyone about to purchase a kegging system to buy the Zymurgy issue from last year that explores the topic. brian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 15:57:58 +0000 (GMT) From: DAVE BRADLEY IC742 6-7932 <BRADLEY_DAVID_A at Lilly.com> Subject: Guiness Screen Saver - Windows For those with Windows machines, there is a great screen saver I've just located. It is comprised of a series of pictures taken from a Guiness TV add, showing a patron waiting and waiting for his Guiness to settle. Pretty funny. The URL for those interested: http://www.sirrus.com/~ratloaf/saver_az Dave in Indy Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 09:07:24 -0700 (MST) From: John Forbes <forbes at primenet.com> Subject: Malt Aroma A freind and I have been brewing Oktoberfests and Bocks for a year now. We have been fairly succesful with our efforts and even won a first place last weekend with our Dopple Bock. We feel and the judges agree that the flavor profile is correct. What we are lacking is that wonderful malt/carmel aroma you find with the imported versions. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how we can improve and intensify the malt aroma. I will summarize and post the results. Thanks in advance, John M. Forbes forbes at primenet.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 14:14:26 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: glucans/proteins Dave writes about the "big stout": Ingredients: (5 gal.) > 10 lbs. British Pale Ale Malted Barley > 1 lb. Roasted Unmalted Barley > 1 lb. Flaked Barley > 2 lbs. Flaked Oats <I think step mashing would be beneficial, given the large amount of <unmalted barley and oats. Was your sparge really sluggish? Try a rest at <about 140F. This would help break down beta-glucans and excess protein. The adjuncts are flaked products. The base malt is highly modified British Pale Ale malt. Beta glucanase, which acts on beta glucans, is active in a narrow band around 104F (40C). Beta glucanase is mainly active during malting and little to none survives in British Pale Ale malt. (lager malts on the other hand do retain beta glucanase after kilning). A rest above 135F will do little to change the protein composition of the wort, particularly with pale ale malt. This means that a rest at 140F will do little to alter either the glucan or protein composition of the wort. As for the necessity of a beta glucan rest when mashing flaked adjuncts, I just did two pilot brews using 25% flaked barley. The first employed the 40/50/60/70 schedule and the second a simpler 60/70 program. Both worts lautered easily and the apparent degree of attenuation in both cases was very close. The total grist was low with a target OG of 10P but with a well designed lauter tun using a perf sheet bottom this should be possible with OGs in the 16P range at least. Tasting the results I can say conclusively that flaked barley is a fantastic addition to a stout recipe. As for the rest of the recipe, Id eliminate the black malt and reduce the chocolate malt to 1/8 lb. I generally hate black malt for anything other than coloring purposes. YMMV. Al writes: <Firstly, Carapils and Dextin malts are very light caramel malts and yes, <indeed this whole discussion does apply to all caramel (a.k.a. crystal) <malts as well as dark malts. US Dextrin malt, often called carapils malt is distinctly different from the German caraHell or the Belgium caraPils malts. The US versions will break your tooth if bitten while the continental counterparts are indeed very light caramel malts. The glassy interior of the US version is a different beast and another malt I tend to avoid at all costs. Good brewing, Jim Busch A Victory For Your Taste! Victory Festbier, Brandywine Valley Lager and Hopdevil IPA Milltown Mild, Prima Pils and St. Victorious Doppelbock Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 16:21:00 -0600 (CST) From: "Patrick E. Humphrey" <HUMPHREY.PATRICK at igate.pprd.abbott.com> Subject: Hefeweizen Recipe? A friend of mine brought a very tastey Hefeweizen back for me from Germany and I was able to culture the yeast from it. I would like to take advantage of this and brew an "authentic" Hefeweizen with this yeast. What percentage of wheat should I use and also what type of hops/amounts? Would American 2-row be OK? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks, Pat Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 11:19:12 EDT From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) Subject: Re: Long slow fermentation, Bottling for competition Hi All, In HBD#2018, Denis Barsalo writes: >I would like to enter some in competition >so I can get some feedback from "decent" beer judging. My problem is, that >I bottle exclusively with swing-top bottles (Grolsch like) and these are >not usually accepted in competition. > Can someone please tell me why? Judging in a competition is done "blind", i.e., the judges are not supposed to know the identity of the brewer. Swing-top bottles are considered to be sufficiently "unique" so as to provide a possible clue to the brewer's identity. The same reasoning is applied to bottles with raised lettering, and bottle caps that have not been "blacked out". This does vary from competition to competition, it's really up to the organizer. I've judged at competitions that did not require that the caps be blacked out, since the stewards were pouring and bringing the beer to the judging table in pitchers. I've also seen competitions advertised that had no restrictions on bottles, swing-tops, raised lettering, etc., was OK. So, you can either look for competitions that are more relaxed in this regard, or pick up a few standard bottles. Most competitions require only 3 per entry. ***************************************************** Also in HBD#2018, TBrouns at aol.com writes: >I started a wheat beer--dunkelweizen, actually, using an Irek's 6.6# can and >another # of DME--on 29 March, >On the 18th of April I returned from my trip and the beer was still kicking! >The SG is at about 1.008 now, and I know that's usually sufficient to bottle, >but I'm afraid to bottle when it's still bubbling this steadily (about once a >minute, realizing that all airlocks are probably different) for fear of a >mess in about a week when the pressure has built up. >Any >Ideas? TIA Sure. Rather than guess what is going on, use your hydrometer. Wait a day or so, then take another reading. If it's still ~1.008, the beer is done, go ahead and bottle. If the SG dropped more than a point or two, wait two days, then take another reading. When you get two consecutive readings a couple of days apart that are about the same, fermentation is done. I'm inclined to think it's done at 1.008 though. Cheers, Jim dipalma at sky.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 15:28:52 -0700 From: Bob Grabhorn <grabhorn at olywa.net> Subject: Samuel Adams' Cream Stout Hello, gang. Could those of you who've tried Sam Adams' Cream Stout recently comment on its diacetyl content? I remembered it being much less noticeable in the Midwest than it is here in the Northwest. A local brewer friend who just moved here from Boston says it's a lot better on the East Coast, and that the likely cause is variations between the breweries they contract. Anybody noticed this? Is this a plausible explanation? Just curious, Bob Grabhorn Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 19:38:33 -0400 From: RHEINZ at aol.com Subject: Chill Haze Esteemed Brewers - My question today concerns chill haze. I recently brewed a partial extract kit obtained at my local homebrew store. It was an Extra Special Bitter which got bottled on March 1 after a one week primary and a two week secondary fermentation. After about three weeks in the bottle, the beer tasted great. The only problem to note was that a distinct haze developed in the bottles when placed in the refrigerator. Now, I have noticed that after the bottles are in the fridge for a certain period of time (a week or so), the haze goes completely away leaving a beautiful amber, crystal clear brew. Can anyone shed any light on what's going on here? TIA. Ric Heinz Houston, Texas rheinz at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 17:10:07 -0700 From: Ken Parsons <klondike at sonnet.com> Subject: Why Some Clear-bottled Beer Does Not Become Lightstruck The lightstruck (aka sunstruck, skunky, or import beer) flavor arises when ultraviolet light from the sun or fluorescent bulbs cleaves the 3-methylbut-2enyl radical from the isohumulone molecule. Isohumulone is isomerized alpha-acid that is the bittering agent of hops. The cleaved radical is then free to react with hydrogen sulfide or other sulfur containing compounds to form isopentenyl mercaptan, that yummy aroma. Some breweries (I believe Miller is one, Samuel Smith, I'm not sure) can reduce the isohumulone with sodium borohydride to form a secondary alcohol known as the rho-isohumulones. This compound is claimed to be less susceptible to photolysis but also has less bittering power. Now that the chemistry lesson is over, let's quaff some fine malt beverages. Klondike Ken Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:43:05 -0300 (ADT) From: Craig Stewart <foghorn1 at darwin.nbnet.nb.ca> Subject: Possible <gasp> infection? Folks, I bottled a bitter a few days ago, and I put a couple in the green bottles, just so I could take a peak. Today, I find that I have some things adhearing to the sides of the bottles. Could this be: 1) The yeast working to condition the beer, and it will fall out... 2) A possible <shudder> infection in my brew? As this is the first time I can see THROUGH the beer in the bottle, (I like stouts and browns) am I just seeing something that always happens. My cleaning was the same as usual, bleach soak & rinse, but I had to bottle in the basement, because of my 'better half's' friends. They think beer and especialy homebrewing is immoral. If I didn't want to keep peace in the house, I'd down one in fromt of 'em! Anyway, I just don't know what it is. Who knows, maybe it will be the best batch yet! Thanks. - -- ************************************************************************** Non-Disclaimer: Any resemblance between the above views and those of my employer, my terminal, or the view out my window are purely coincidental. Any resemblance between the above and my own views is non-deterministic. The question of the existence of views in the absence of anyone to hold them is left as an exercise for the reader. The question of the existence of the reader is left as an exercise for the second god coefficient. (A discussion of non-orthogonal, non-integral polytheism is beyond the scope of this article.) ************************************************************************** flames to /dev/null Craig Stewart foghorn1 at mailserv.nbnet.nb.ca Return to table of contents