HOMEBREW Digest #2022 Sat 27 April 1996

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  Digest is up for sale (Digest Janitor)
  Lighstrike/Autolysis/Ice vs Eis (A. J. deLange)
  National Homebrew Day (lmatt)
  Mistake? ("Murray")
  pin vs ball lock (Wallinger)
  Ready-to-Pitch Yeasts?  I don't think so (P. Edwards)
  glass bottles (Dave Whitman)
  Re:glass bottles/lightstruck (Craig Amundsen)
  Carapils and caramel pils (Jim Busch)
  Securing CO2 tanks (UTC -04:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com>
  lots of copies of HBD #2020 (Eric Palmer)
  REMOVE Jeff.Foley at f0.n1816.usa.storm.net (Alan Jurison)
  Re: HBD #2021 What fools we mortals be... (Michael Lausin)
  what an evening of fun (Shiva Vakili)
  Prohibition (Douglas Thomas)
  RE: Megabrewery Micros ("Gregory, Guy J.")
  Temp Controller Plans; Module Availability (WALZENBREW)
  Suppliers in Spain (Rich Larsen)
  Securing CO2 tank/ LP to NG conv./Dextrin Malt ("Dave Hinkle")
  Re: straining hops (D. Kris Rovell-Rixx)
  Co2 Safety. Again.... ("Pat Babcock")
  Orange Peels (Chris Strickland)
  Keg Q/Stuck Ferment (mzekaus)

NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS hpfcmgw! Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rob Gardner (Digest Janitor) Subject: Digest is up for sale I am looking for a stable, responsible party to take over ownership of the Homebrew Digest as soon as possible. I will provide all necessary assistance with the transition. If interested please email me immediately: rdg at fc.hp.com. Rob Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 08:25:09 -0500 From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange) Subject: Lighstrike/Autolysis/Ice vs Eis Photons of energy corresponding to wavelengths of less than 550 nm (well into the visible) are capable of splitting off the side chain and skunking beer thus sunlight and fluorescent lighing will both spoil the beer but tungsten light will do so to a much lesser extent. While the more energetic photons of UV will probably do the job better and faster, the attenuation of most glasses to these shorter wavelengths, as mentioned by Daniel Goodale (is that really his last name?) should protect the beer from them and the villains are then the short visible and longwave UV. The usual glass bottle is thus designed to be a sort of low-pass filter with 20-30% transmittance at 550 nm and presumably less at shorter wavelengths. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Gregg Howard asks about yeast autolysis particularly whether it is oversold as a danger to the brewer. I had never thought about it but I guess it is in my opinion. Thinking back it is not something I have ever tasted but it is certainly something I have smelled. I keg everything and am a lager buff so I'll have stuff that has been sitting over yeast for more than a year in some cases (bocks). The beer itself tastes and smells wonderful but on that dreaded day when the handle is pulled and all that comes out is foam the keg is depressurized to be opened and cleaned. When the lid comes off it is not a pleasant smell that emanates from the keg. Upon distubing the yeast sediment for removal, the smell becomes stronger and has a gagging sort of burnt rubber aroma. I believe this to be the smell of autolyzation products. Note that the wisdom is that the cold temperatures of lager storage prevent autolysis from occurring. This is not so. The cold temperatures only slow the process as the autolysis is veryplainly there under the circumstance I described. The interesting question is what keeps these out of the beer. It must be that the yeast mass confines the burst cell products within itself. Autolysis supposedly is a form of canibalism so perhaps most of the lysed products are consumed by the other yeast. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Eric Metzler commented on the Zymurgy article on Eisbock. Just a quick note that the ideas behing ice beer and Eisbock are quite different although freezing is involved in both. In the former case the idea is to hasten the removal of "young beer" components such that the brewery can greatly reduce, or altogether eliminate, the lagering period (it also is great fodder for the marketing types). In the case of Eisbock the intent is to concentrate flavor and alcohol by freezing and removing water. There is some crossover between the methods but not much. I think little of the ice is removed in the ice beer process (but note that these products are usually 5.5% ABV). A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore! ajdel at interramp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 08:26:55 -0400 (EDT) From: lmatt <lmatt at nando.net> Subject: National Homebrew Day In a recent post, someone ask what other homebrew clubs were doing for May 4th. While on a recent tour of Tomcat Brewery in Raleigh, Thom Tomlinson offered his 7 barrel (also has a 25 barrel) system to our club for a celebration. Needless to say, Carboy (Cary-Apex-Raleigh Brewers Of Yore) jumped at the chance and offered some involvement to TRUB (TRiangle Unabashed homeBrewers). Our clubs have developed a well hopped American Brown Ale recipe which we will brew. All ingredients are being purchased by the club and participating brewers will receive 5-10 gal for their effort. The primary fermentation will be done onsite but our club will return the following week to collect our beer and have flexibility on dry hopping, adding fruit, or other variations. While the mashing, boiling, and chilling are going on, we will have a huge cookout being prepared for our members enjoyment. So many homebrewers have always wanted to brew using a larger system and now we have the chance. On May 4th, a homebrewer's dream becomes real. Larry Matthews Carboy/Trub member Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 08:33:23 EST From: "Murray" <MURRAY at ottawa.iti.ca> Subject: Mistake? GREETINGS: I have been homebrewing for the past few months (i.e. a rookie) and I thought that I would try a "real" recepie so I chose the Belgian Honey Tickle ftom Papazians' Homebrew Companion. With help from my homebrew store, I managed to convert from Gal US (19l) to Gal. CDN. (23l) however I think that I (we) did not convert properly from Dry Malt Extract to liquid...missing the additional 15%. My O.G. was 1.055 vs. 1.065-1.077 (recepie) and four days later was 1.11 (a difference of 44) when transfering in to my secondary. The recepie indicated that the final gravity should be 1.021-1.026 (a difference of 44). What can I expect from this....am I in trouble.....will the end result be any good....do I panic or sit back and have a homebrew? Any help or comments muchly appreciated. Murray Pinchuk murray at ottawa.iti.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 06:57:38 -0500 From: Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com> Subject: pin vs ball lock >I use both and thought I'd chime in and agree wholeheartedly with Brian's >answer concerning ball-locks. The bleed valve on top is the difference >HMS - Baltimore Actually, I have three pin lock kegs with the same feature. Wade Wallinger Pascagoula, Mississippi http://www.datasync.com/~wawa newer brewers - check out our club's page for tips: http://www.datasync.com/~wawa/gcbb.html Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 07:54:57 -0500 From: pedwards at iquest.net (P. Edwards) Subject: Ready-to-Pitch Yeasts? I don't think so Did anybody see the new product announcement in the latest zymurgy from a company called Saccharomyces Supply Co? They've got liquid yeast that they claim don't need a starter culture. The announcement says that the each vial of yeast (sufficient for 5 gallons) contains 5 billion viable yeast cells. Well I ran some numbers. In the Yeast Special edition of zymurgy a few years back, Paul Farnsworth stated that 2 million yeast cells per milliter was necessary at pitching to prevent microbiolical problems. The Practical Brewer says pitching rates ought to be in the 5 to 15 million cells per ml range. So, 5 gallons of beer is roughly 19 liters (19000 milliters). Using Farnsworth's pitching rate, you'd need 38 billon cells. One the upper end (for lagers or strong beer), the 15 million cells/ml would be 285 billion cells. So, if you used the RTP culture w/o a starter, you'd be under pitching by anywhere from about 7 to 60 times. Caveat Emptor! - --Paul (pedwards at iquest.net) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:32:59 -0400 From: dwhitman at rohmhaas.com (Dave Whitman) Subject: glass bottles In HBD#2021, Daniel Goodales writes: > Anyway, if I remember my optical crystallography correctly, >glass is UV opaque. I remember that a UV prospecting device had to have >quartz glass window for that reason. I always kinda thought that it was >the warmth that skunked beer?? The skunking reaction is photochemical, presumably driven by UV light, although I don't know the exact wavelength needed to drive the reaction. Glass tends to block UV below a certain threshold wavelength (called the "cut off") that varies with the type of glass. Quartz has a very low cut off, and the soft glass used in bottles has a relatively high cut off. Some UV light does get through even soft glass, though. Cut off wavelengths for various glasses are given in most analytical chemistry texts. At one point I put a clear and brown bottle of my pale ale out in the sun for a few days, and it confinced me that brown bottles are better. The beer in the clear bottle was very bad smelling and tasting, almost undrinkable. The brown one was a little degraded relative to stuff stored in the dark, but not obviously bad like the clear bottle. This is a very simple experiment to do, and worth doing if you want to see what skunking is all about. - --- Dave Whitman Rohm and Haas Specialty Materials dwhitman at rohmhaas.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 08:49:29 -0500 (CDT) From: Craig Amundsen <amundsen at biosci.cbs.umn.edu> Subject: Re:glass bottles/lightstruck Hi - Daniel Goodale wrote: > Anyway, if I remember my optical crystallography correctly, > glass is UV opaque. I remember that a UV prospecting device had to have > quartz glass window for that reason. I always kinda thought that it was > the warmth that skunked beer?? Then Algis R Korzonas wrote: > Yes, but it does not have to be ultraviolet... in fact very little > ultraviolet light makes it through glass. Through a process called > non-radiative energy transfer, visible light (in some places it says > green and below, in other places I've read that it is light in a > narrower range, somewhere around blue-green) reacts with what is called > a sensitizer (believed to be riboflavin in this particular reaction -- > the skunking of beer) and then transfers this energy to the isohumulone. There is a nice graph (URL - http://realbeer.com/spencer/bottle.html) that shows the optical density of 5 different colors of beer bottles. The _Practical Brewer_ from the Master Brewer's Association of the Americas, reports that light below about 500 nm will skunk beer. This includes UV, which doesn't go through glass. But light above about 350 nm does go through most colors of glass to varying degrees, with brown glass being the most opaque to the danger wavelengths. - Craig in St. Paul - -- +-----------------------------+------------------------------------------------+ | Craig Amundsen | DILBERT - Sometimes I wonder if it's ethical | | amundsen at biosci.cbs.umn.edu | to do these genetic experiments. But | | (612) 624-2704 | I rationalize it because it will | | 250 Biological Sciences | improve the quality of life. | | 1445 Gortner Avenue | DOGBERT - What are you making? | | Saint Paul, MN 55108 | DILBERT - Skunkopotamus. O- | +-----------------------------+------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:53:30 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Carapils and caramel pils I see folks are interested in my aversion to Carapils malt. This is just my opinion, YMMV. As Olin correctly points out: <Carapils and Dextrine malt are one in <the same. Carapils is the trademarked name of Dextrine malt. Dextrine <malt contains a high percentage of dextrins which are unfermentable by <the malt enzymes, alpha and beta amylase. De Wolf Cosyns sells a product which is a light caramel or crystal malt called Caramel Pils or Caramel, Type Pils. German maltsters also sell a similar product, often called caraPils. I wonder if the Briess trademark is only valid in the US? One can use any good caramel malt in the typical fashions, steeping for extract brewers or mashing for all grainers. These malts impart a pleasing nutty, sweetish, sometimes fullness of palate and some increased head retention. The light caramels such as Type Pils can be used in large percentages depending on the brewers target. Briess/Dextrine/Carapils is another beast altogether and as Olin stated it is not a caramel malt. I dislike the overall mouthfeel/body that this malt can impart. A little is OK but it is seems to be used at 5-10% of some grists which is pretty high IMO. If I want to build body/mouthfeel in my beers then I will adjust my mash program and choice of malts to dictate the fermentability of the wort. I prefer to use more natural methods to adjust my beers rather than adding a more processed product which I feel negatively affects the overall character of a beer. This can be a very subtle effect and in some styles it may be a moot point. In very light lagers using noticable amounts of Dextrine malt I find the effect almost artificial. This is a presonal preference and yet another example of the diversity of brewers, some love the stuff and thats all that matters. Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:03:31 EDT From: "Rich Byrnes USAET(UTC -04:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com> Subject: Securing CO2 tanks Greetings! Had to jump in on this post. The simplest way to secure a CO2 tank for the least amount of $$$ is DUCT TAPE! Just kidding! Call a business that deals in fire extinguishers and purchase a wall mount "holder?" for the size cylinder you own, then use sheet metal screws and attatch the bracket to your fridge, you can than easily undo the clasp to remove your tank for filling. ($25 for a guage cage? Ouch!!!!!!! Same part at a welding supplier or mail order is around $12) Regards,_Rich Byrnes Jr Fermental Order of Renaissance Draughtsmen \\\|/// phone #(313)323-2613, fax #390-4520_______o000_(.) (.)_000o rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com (_) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:04:37 -0700 (PDT) From: palmer at San-Jose.ate.slb.com (Eric Palmer) Subject: lots of copies of HBD #2020 I have more than enough copies of #2020. Thanks for the response. Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 23:58:36 -0700 From: Alan Jurison <Alan.Jurison at f1.n181.usa.storm.net> Subject: REMOVE Jeff.Foley at f0.n1816.usa.storm.net REMOVE Jeff.Foley at f0.n1816.usa.storm.net Please remove Jeff Foley from your mailing list. He no longer recieves his Internet mail and this newsletter is becoming annoying. Thank you, Alan Jurison StormNet International Coordinator StormNet Int'l Echomail Coordinator > HOMEBREW Digest #2018 Tue 23 April 1996 > FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES > Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor > Contents: > copyright (Rolland Everitt) > celebrities (Wallinger) > Testing CO2 Tanks (UTC -04:00)" <rich.byrnes at e-mail.com> [..] Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 11:15:05 MDT From: mel0083 at mcdata.com (Michael Lausin) Subject: Re: HBD #2021 What fools we mortals be... Hope the wife is feeling better... NEVER, EVER leave a brew pot unattended! But I guess you already found that out. Twice... :) As far as the airlock clogging, I always put my carboy inside of a couple of big black plastic bags. The bags block the light and helps prevent a blown off airlock/blow off tube from doing damage to the inside of the closet, carpet, etc. The other thing I have found with using hop pellets is that the airlock gets easily clogged with particles. I usually use a 5/16" tube in a stopper and put the other end into a 1/2 gal sun tea jar that has about 1/2" of water in it. That way it can blow off to it's hearts content and I don't have to worry about a blown off airlock. I used to use 3/8" tubing, but had a problem with that tube getting clogged during primary. Luckily having the plastic bags kept the mess from going all over the place. I've seen tubing the size of the carboy opening, but have never tried it. [Mostly worried about how good of a seal it was gonna have. Gotta keep the gremlins out ya know!] :) HTH - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ michael at mcdata.com Michael Lausin McDATA Corp. Broomfield, Co 303-460-4107 http://www.mcdata.com/~mel0083/brewing.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ PROGRAM n. A magic spell cast over a computer allowing it to turn one's input into error messages. tr.v. To engage in a pastime similar to banging one's head against a wall, but with fewer opportunities for reward. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The opinions expressed are mine, 'cause I'm the one pushing the keys! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 13:28:50 -0400 (EDT) From: Shiva Vakili <vakili at pobox.upenn.edu> Subject: what an evening of fun Thank you so very much for inviting us. It was just fabolous. Yahya says he does not remember having such a great time for such a long time. You know he loves you and he became very much in fond of Sam your cousin. He is so nice. oF COURSE yASHA AND i HAD A GREAT TIME. bUT i REALLY WAS SO THRILLED THAT yAHYA HAD SUCH A GOOD TIME. SO i FEEl like I had trpple good time! He was also so excited to see Lewis, from his tisses time!! Oh what a great time we had. Thanks . You did it again . - -- Shiva Vakili University of Pennsylvania Libraries Tel: (215) 898-4925 email vakili at pobox.upenn.edu **************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:32:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Douglas Thomas <thomasd at uchastings.edu> Subject: Prohibition Hello Collective! About 2 weeks ago I responded to a posting on the subject of prohibition and claimed that wine making was legal nationally, during prohibition. Well, I now give the back up for it National Prohibition Act, Section 29 states that it is legal for the head of household to make up to two hundred gallons of wine per year as long as it is not sold or transported. Anywhere in the nation, a family head could produce two hundred gallons for themselves. This is why California vintners could stay alive. Grapes and grape concentrate was shipped everywhere in the nation. The most popular product was Vine-Glo which came in many varieties, and promised that wine could be made at home in 60 days. This little section says nothing about beer, and if their were the rules then as now about labeling "barley wine" then I would presume that that too, could have been made. Hope this explains things Doug Thomas thomasd at uchastings.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 12:00:00 PDT From: "Gregory, Guy J." <GGRE461 at eroerm1.ecy.wa.gov> Subject: RE: Megabrewery Micros In HBD 2021, Mike Beatty <mpb at minuet.ee.siue.edu> exposes a conspiracy during a tasting at Busch/St. Louis: "since this seems to be an obvious attempt by the big boy to pass off a micro-styled brew. All in all, it was enjoyed by most there, including some homebrewers that I attended with" Mike, trust me, this isn't a flame...As a homebrewer, I like my beer better than most micros. Here in the NW, there is an explosion of microbreweries and brewpubs, some of which make great beer, some is good beer, and some I wouldn't pour on the ground. I really can't keep up, mostly 'cause I'm drinking my homebrew and trying to make it better. Macrobreweries have all been the same way as the micros (good, bad, indifferent), but I think since the '60s they tended to appeal to the lowest common taste denominator. I guess I have a couple of questions: 1) IMHO, if Bud or Miller or Coors or Schlitz chooses to brew with actual rational amounts of barley, eliminating fillers, isn't that good? 2) Won't the resulting reintroduction of taste to beer actually increase the market for everyone? 3) If you like it, isn't it automatically good beer, even if it's brewed in gazillion gallon batches and left to sit on 100 degree loading docks for weeks? Me, I don't care how good it gets, it still won't beat my beer. I think we have a lot to gain and nothing to lose by monster breweries brewing good beer. And I think Mike might agree. Cheers Guy Gregory <GuyG4 at aol.com> Lightning Creek Picobrewery-home of Helen Chenoweth Memorial Sockeye Rye ale.....You're gonna miss it when it's gone. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 15:17:20 -0400 From: WALZENBREW at aol.com Subject: Temp Controller Plans; Module Availability The complete plans for my refrigerator/freezer/heater temperature control, including a GIF of the schematic, are now on the TRASH home page at: http://members.gnn.com/rcolaizzi/trash.htm Also, just got this latest news on the availability of the module that forms the heart of the unit. Radio Shack doesn't market the module as "277-123" any more, nor is it stocked in any of their stores. Marty Tippin (martyt at sky.net) informed me on 4/26/96 that the module is available via mail order. He did some poking around and found out that the controller *is* still available from Radio Shack as a special-order part - it's now called part no. 1064-0316 and still goes for $19.99 + $2 shipping. It can be ordered directly from Radio Shack at 800-843-7422 or you can have any local store order it for you and it'll be shipped straight to your house. Cheers, Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 13:42:20 -0500 From: rlarsen at pyrotechnics.com (Rich Larsen) Subject: Suppliers in Spain Does anyone know a supplier in Spain? I was chatting the other day with someone who is interested in getting started, but lives in the North of Spain. Not exactly my stomping grounds. Please e-mail TIA => Rich <rlarsen at pyrotechnics.com> ________________________________________________________________________ Rich Larsen, Midlothian, IL. Also on HomeBrew University (847) 970-9778 "Spice is the Variety of Life" ________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: 26 Apr 1996 12:33:57 -0700 From: "Dave Hinkle" <Dave.Hinkle at aexp.com> Subject: Securing CO2 tank/ LP to NG conv./Dextrin Malt Brain wrote about the gage cage: >To prevent CO2 'rockets', may I suggest something simpler than securing the >bottle to something. I use a 'gage cage', which surrounds the gages so >they don't break when the bottle falls over. about 25 bucks at my homebrew >store, so it pays for itself the fisrt time you knock over your CO2 bottle! A Gage Cage still doesn't prevent the tank from tipping over. A safer method is an older welders trick: get about 2-3 feet of light steel chain, then put a snap-hook on each end. Costs just a few bucks at any hardware store. You then just wrap the chain around the neck of the tank a couple of times and secure the ends around something stationary. Having a hook on each end lets you take up the slack. I like to hook mine to one of the handles on the plastic trash can I ice the keg down in. BTW, you can get the "Gage Cage" for $12 from Superior Restaurant Supply via mail order. $25 is a BIT of a markup! A falling tank is dangerous with or without a Gage Cage, as it doesn't protect the tank valve. But if you're the type who leaves a loaded & cocked shotgun leaning against a wall, then you probably don't worry about a compressed gas tank falling over either. Richard & Kathy Lai wrote about an LP conversion: >My wife and I have a Liquid Propane (LP) barbecue grill >that we want to convert to natural gas. Has anyone done >this? > >If someone has done this, did you have to replace the >burner and orifice or just the orifice? Who did this >for you, or how did you get it done? > >I've called up several places, and they're either >unable to sell converter kits, or feel it's too dangerous. >Are we the only ones who have thought of this? Call your gas company. They'll be more than happy to point you to a source for what you need. The conversion is usually a new orifice, hookup hose, and sometimes a new gas/air tube to screw onto the bottom of the burner(s). The gas co. will also inspect your fixed hookup valve to make sure it is the right type (for free). BTW, the converter "kits" are usually made by the grill manufacturer for your specific model or a range of models. You could also call them for help. Paul Brian wrote regarding Carapils: >In hbd 2020 Jim Busch mentioned that he tends to avoid US carapils malt. >Why? Does it have something to do with mashing? He mentioned only that >it will break your tooth if bitten. US Carapils (dextrin) malt, like unmalted wheat, is hellish on your mill! As long as I get somebody else to mill it, I don't mind using it, but I find it doesn't add as much body as European Carapils. I think it also adds a "grainy-er" taste. Just my opinion. Dave H. Phoenix, AZ: where the next century refers to Fahrenheit. Ahhh... Spring! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 17:05:36 EDT From: D. Kris Rovell-Rixx <rovell at hpana0.an.hp.com> Subject: Re: straining hops > From: "Dave Higdon" <DAVEH at qesrv1.bwi.wec.com> > HOMEBREW Digest #2021 > I recently brewed up a batch of palidia IPA. The wort was to thick to ... > After a week of bottle age I tried one for carbonation and taste. It > was horrible: very bitter with off-flavors. Will these efects decay > with age? For the first 1 1/2 months after kegging, my last batch of Palialia tasted green and overly bitter. The bitterness mellowed with age. The off-flavors disappeared and it turned into a really nice beer. Palialia gets dryer with age. It continues to change as it ages but it only seems to get better. I've gotten a lot of compliments with this recipe. I think patience will be rewarded with this beer. - -- __________________________________________________________________________ D. Kris Rovell-Rixx rovell at an.hp.com (508)659-2096 __________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 17:32:34 +0500 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Co2 Safety. Again.... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager.... Without mentioning any names, here's the drill: o Gauge-cages protect the gauges, tis true - but only to an extent. Don't kid yourself into thinking this little birdcage can keep you from fracturing either the housing of the regulator or snapping it off at the valve stem. Or even breaking the valve off. And, they are "periphery protectors". Anything fitting up into them as the bottle falls is "fair game". o Why wouldn't oxygen stored under pressure "freeze up" as the claim was made for CO2? The transition from liquid to gas in either case would require similar amounts of energy, so why would any other gas stored in liquid form not freeze up as was claimed CO2 would? Simple message, folks: Better safe than sorry. Best practice is to strap or chain the cylinder - ANY COMPRESSED GAS-FILLED CYLINDER - in such a fashion to prevent it EVER falling over. And anchor it to something that won't itself fall over. Anyone who tells you otherwise also isn't living in your skin. As always, trust your own instincts and judgement. If it doesn't sound reasonable, it probably isn't... (And you know what to do with the flames...) See ya! Pat Babcock in Canton, Michigan (Western Suburb of Detroit) pbabcock at oeonline.com URL: http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/ Let a good beer be the exclamation point at the end of your day as every sentence requires proper punctuation. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 21:01:34 -0400 From: Chris Strickland <cstrick at iu.net> Subject: Orange Peels I recently brewed a batch using dried orange peels in place of my normal finishing hops. Tastes good, barely can taste the orange peels (really don't want it to overpower). I used 4 tbs at 10 minutes left in the boil and the 1hr it takes to cool. Anyone else tried orange peels, if so, how? - -------------- Chris Strickland cstrick at iu.net http://www.teg.saic.com/mote/people.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 23:13:57 -0400 (EDT) From: mzekaus at nylink.org Subject: Keg Q/Stuck Ferment Hi All, After cleaning out a soda keg, I added my usual ounce of iodophor to the water. I was wondering if the chlorine in the town water would react with the stainless steel?.I leave the water/Iodophor as sanitizer until keg is needed again. could be weeks or months. I haven't gotten the info I want out of the water dept. yet as regard to PPM of chlorine... I have another question about a fermentable: Seemingly stuck fermentation on a brew called "Sugar on Snow" (5 gal) 1.5 Gal Grade A Amber Maple Syrup 2.5 Gal Concentrated Maple Sap (water removed via a membrane) 2.5 C Corn Sugar 1 Gal water 1 tsp. Acid Blend 1 tsp. Yeast Nutrient 2 X 7 gr. wine yeast. OG 1.118 (3/16/95) had a rip-roaring primary ferment, racked to secondary on 4/8/95 with a SG of 1.088. then practically nothing. On 3/6/96 it had a SG of 1.055, I re-pitched a starter of EC-1118 lalvin Champagne yeast. Some activity, but I'm not impressed. I expected to get a FG a lot closer to 1.000. any suggestions? Regards, Mark Zekauskas - -- "There's no reassuring ceiling over you... Only an open sky full of changes. Welcome it. Every sense you possess is an instrument for reacting to change. Does that tell you nothing?" -Frank Herbert. Return to table of contents