Homebrew Digest Friday, 19 July 1996 Number 2114
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
re: ph testing ("Sharon A. Ritter")
RE: "Large" Fermenters ((J. Matthew Saunders))
Odor Removal ! ("Derrick M. Yacavone")
Re: Concrete Fermenters (Keith Schwols)
plastic fermenters ("Sharon A. Ritter")
Wheeler's Porter History/Plastics/Al K. (Rob Moline)
Boil your gelatin (Pierre Jelenc)
Summer Brewing Poll (ThE-HoMeBrEw-RaT)
Burners ("DAVID T. PETERS GERMANY(UTC +02:00)")
Large fermenters, Anchor and positive pressure ("Donald A. Put")
I can't believe the dumbness (NOKOMAREE at aol.com)
KISS (BeauJolai at aol.com)
gelatin momism/momily ("Edward J. Kendall")
Motown Beer Fest. (Michael Ditty)
Comments on #2113 (Friday, 19 July 1996) (Fred Hardy)
Herbal Flavorings -- Has Anyone Tried...? (Paul A. Hausman)
RE: Gelatine Fining ((Michael A. Genito))
concrete fermenter (DONBREW at aol.com)
Cookbooks (Kathy Booth )
Bitter dregs (David Conger)
Milkshakes and Atlanta Brewpubs (Robert Hatcher)
Re:Fridge for Kegging, Heart of the hops ((Gary Clark))
Full Boil ((Josh Price))
Removing haze from flaked barley batch ("Dave Hinkle")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Sharon A. Ritter" <102446.3717 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 18 Jul 96 21:16:05 EDT
Subject: re: ph testing
>>
Can anyone recommend a better way to store a pH meter so that I get more
than 6 months from the new electrode? Is 6 months only what I should
expect? Do any of you have better solutions to taking pH readings for
brewing? (better brands, better papers, better ways to care for the
electrode...)
<<
I did some research when I was in the market for a hand-held PH meter.
My findings led me back to the pH papers I've always used: colorpHast.
pH meters are apparently notorious for being fickle and most of the
reasonably priced ones ($75 or so) have a accuracy of only +/-.1. Not
very good for the price and hassle involved in a meter (IMO). The
colorpHast papers come in two ranges - I use the pH 4.0-7.0. With a
little practice, one can achieve almost the same accuracy as the above
mentioned meters. They're pricey ($15 for 100 strips) and not readily
available (I get mine from Brewer's Resource 1-800-827-3983 - no
affiliation) but I like 'em. And no messy electrode to store!
Dan Ritter in Grangeville, Idaho
102446.3717 at compuserve.com
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From: saunderm at vt.edu (J. Matthew Saunders)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 21:41:41 -0400
Subject: RE: "Large" Fermenters
Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> writes
>>I got a 20 gallon food grade Rubbermaid (tm) 'garbage' can from a
>
>Food grade garbage can ? I doubt it. Your beer may end up tasting of
>plasticiser.
Perhaps I should be clearer....it LOOKS like a garbage can, it is made of
the same stuff as Rubbermaid style tupperwear. It is used by restaurants
to hold everything from tomato sauce to iced tea.
Cheers!
Matthew.
Return to table of contents
From: "Derrick M. Yacavone" <dyacavon at southeast.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 96 22:05:32 -0500
Subject: Odor Removal !
- -- [ From: Derrick M. Yacavone * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --
Thought I would give an all-grain attempt, so I was fortunate enough(it
wasn't easy) to find a couple of 5 gallon pickle buckets(very very kosher
from the smell !) I have had them soaking with up to 3 cups of bleach mixed
up with water and still can't get the smell out !
Anyone run into this problem ? Any help would be appreciated, thanx.
Return to table of contents
From: Keith Schwols <ks336514 at lance.colostate.edu>
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 96 20:27:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Concrete Fermenters
Bill Rust writes:
Father Barleywine writes:
>I strongly suspect that raw concrete would be a poor surface for
fermentation, carrying the high risk of culturing contaminants in crevices
and leaching various non-food-grade substances into the acidic beer.
I had a chance recently to visit some breweries in St. Petersburg, Russia.
Particularly the Vienna (BEHA) brewery. Their mash vessels and
boilers were made from cast concrete, and although they didn't
make exactly award winning (or even very good) beer, the concrete
wasn't a health risk. It definately contributes off flavors and
the fact that both Vienna and Stephan-Raziu breweries had fermentors
made of pot iron (i.e. rusty) contributed more to the beers off flavors.
Making due with concrete seemed to be common in breweries functioning
under the former Soviet rule.
]<eith
- --
]<eith Schwols | Those dear dead days when a
ks336514 at lance.colostate.edu | woman drank beer and liked it.
www.lance.colostate.edu/~ks336514| - John Held, Jr., 1920
Return to table of contents
From: "Sharon A. Ritter" <102446.3717 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 18 Jul 96 22:42:00 EDT
Subject: plastic fermenters
>>
Does anyone out there know where one can locate large, food grade,
plastic containers that could be used as a fermenter? By large I mean
10-20 gallons or so.. 5 gallons at a time just doesn't cut it anymore -
especially for wine, which ties up a fermenter for 6 weeks or so.
<<
Run to your phone and dial 1-800-537-9724 and ask them to send you a
catalog. You'll be talking to United States Plastic Corp. and their
catalog will have you up all night. Too many food grade plastic
containers in all sizes, shapes, densities, and colors to mention here!
No affiliation, but a satisfied customer.
Dan Ritter in Grangeville, Idaho
102446.3717 at compuserve.com
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From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 21:53:29 -0500
Subject: Wheeler's Porter History/Plastics/Al K.
"The Jethro Gump Report"
Wheeler's Porter History-
I have had a few responses to Graham Wheeler's blasphemous analysis
of the history of Porter....(in this politically correct age, do I call it
'de-construction?, no, actually, I think it's merely "addition")...but the
thing sort of completes the circle for me and fills in where others have
begun, and by their own word's elaborated.... "...I am certain that
somewhere out there is some definitive piece of evidence as to the true
nature of porter in it's original form, and that it will come to light
immediately after this book is published. If you are the one to find this
brewer's version of the "Philosopher's Stone", please pass it on to me
immediately!" (Foster) It also elaborates on another definition of "Mild." I
haven't yet read the last Zymurgy's Porter article, but judging from the
private responses...this is different.
This is to, in no way, diminish my respect for Terry Foster. His was
one of the first books on brewing that I bought, and I would be VERY pleased
to meet him and say so....but like I said...Wheeler's info seems spot on to
me....
I spoke to Graham today and have received his permission, as well as
that of the publisher of "Homebrew Today", Evelyn Barrett, to re-print the
text in the HBD...but it is long and I hesitate to put it out, for fear of
alienating the collective with it's length....(9K).. so, I will leave it up
to you, the collective...say so and I will put it on the HBD...say no, and I
won't....private responses appreciated...but I think it is pertinent and
that you would enjoy it....it may even change your approach to brewing
porter...it certainly has me thinking about the next batch!!
Plastics-
Someone asked about various sources for plastic vessels for
brewing.... and on the same day I received my latest copy of the cattle-dog
from "U.S. Plastics," 1-(800)-537-9724. These folks have the BEST catalog
(not as comprehensive as Grainger, but, who is?) of plastic vessels,
tubings, safety products, valves, pumps, mixers, hoses, castings, rods,
totes, shelving...etc...and the nice thing is the "Chemical Resistance Data"
chart they have put in the back, so that you know exactly what it will and
won't tolerate....They even have some nice stainless bits...including one
VERY nice, and expensive stainless version of the Zapap lauter inner bucket!
In 2 different perforation sizes, too! Jethro has never bought from them,
but they do offer a 100 % satisfaction guarantee...or a refund, etc, ...
Al K.-
Have tried to return your posts...but your server won't let
me...what's up?
Jethro Gump
Cheers!
Rob Moline
Little Apple Brewing Company
Manhattan, Kansas
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about
beer!"
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From: Pierre Jelenc <pcj1 at columbia.edu>
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 96 22:56:47 EDT
Subject: Boil your gelatin
George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro)
>
> Daniel wrote in asking about using gelatin to clarify a stout. He
> says that he boiled it. DON'T DO THIS! Just heat it to ~160F and
> hold a few minutes, than add it to the beer.
and
denisb at CAM.ORG (Denis Barsalo)
>
> I have had very sucessful results with gelatine in my secondary,
> but I don't boil it! I've been told that boiling it will ruin the
> properties that it has as far as a clearing agent.
perpetuate the myth that boiling somehow anihilates "the heart of the
gelatin".
Once and for all, please, gelatin is made by BOILING collagen FOR HOURS.
It is fully denatured. Everything that can happen to it has already
happened.
Pierre
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From: ThE-HoMeBrEw-RaT <skotrat at wwa.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 22:10:48 -0500
Subject: Summer Brewing Poll
Well the Summer Brewing Poll results are in...
In all there were 34 responses from homebrewers and I thank you all for
taking the time to be a part of the Poll.
Here are the results:
Brewing = 32
Not Brewing = 2
Later,
- -Scott
################################################################
# PAT IS A HUMORLESS BASTARD PAT IS A HUMORLESS BASTARD #
# #
# PAT IS A HUMORLESS BASTARD PAT IS A HUMORLESS BASTARD #
################################################################
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From: "DAVID T. PETERS GERMANY(UTC +02:00)" <d_peters at e-mail.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 02:39:38 EDT
Subject: Burners
I am living overseas for a couple of years. I recently purchased a 10 gallon
pot and Gott setup to start all grain brewing. Over the weekend I was at a
friends house and we brewed an extract IPA. I also have my new wort chiller,
so we did a full boil. It took forever to boil 5 gallons, yet alone 7.
my dilemma is that I want to brew soon. My local gas store has (2) burners.
One is 6 kW and the other 11.6. According to my Machinery's Handbook that is
roughly 20,500 BTU's and 39,600 BTU's. I could convert them when I come home,
but my concern is when I put the European regulator on my American grill, it
nearly burned the grill up because it was regulated at a higher pressure. My
concern is that the opposite will happen. I will go down in heating ability
when I return to the states and put an American regulator on it. Also there
seems to be no flow valve on these.
1. I assume the King Kooker, etc. have control valves, correct?
2. Can I cook without a control valve?
3. Is 20,000 BTU's/6 kW enough heat for the occasional brewer (once every
month or two)?
4. Should I buy the cheap one for now in Europe and get a better one when I
return to America?
REGARDS, DAVID T. PETERS E-MAIL: D_PETERS at E-MAIL.COM
Return to table of contents
From: "Donald A. Put" <daput at pe.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 00:02:05 +0000
Subject: Large fermenters, Anchor and positive pressure
In an HBD far, far away (hbd1832), Dave in Indy had some info on
larger fermenters. Here's what he had to say:
In looking through the current (1995 #1)
catalog from US Plastics, I saw what I think to be
a new offering: conical bottom medium-size tanks!
This shape makes a great potential fermenter (see
discussions earlier this year in HBD). The only
"bad" news is the smallest size is 15gal. The details
FYI follow...15gal tank made of medium density poly-
ethylene, FDA approved for water use, 60 degree
sloped conical section, 2" FPT bottom outlet, a
10" top opening "positive locking fillwell" (sealing
is a question to ask them!). Cost is ONLY $62!!!
Also comes in 30gal and larger sizes. This is almost
enough to make me scale up! US Plastics, (800) 537-9724
From: BRADLEY DAVID A
Al writes:
> I faintly recall something about Anchor using positive pressure
>with filtered air in their fermentation room which probably makes a
>difference wrt sanitation worries. It would be good if someone could
>confirm this just for compleatness.
Yes, Anchor uses positive pressure via filtered air in their
fermentation rooms. I specifically asked this question during the
tour. Their large, shallow open fermenters are something to behold.
Of course, the whole brewery is something to behold, and the tasting
sessions at the end of the tour are truly memorable.
don
Idyllwild Brewing Company
dput at pe.net
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From: NOKOMAREE at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 04:04:56 -0400
Subject: I can't believe the dumbness
After 30 years of home brewing I can't believe the stupidity of the
conversation regarding priming a batch of beer.
What don't you understand?
All you do is dump 1 cup of corn sugar (OR 3/4 CUP OF CANE SUGAR) into a 5
gallon batch and it carbonates!
What in the world is so hard about that??
Why analyze it to death?
Are you really
STUPID????????
Return to table of contents
From: BeauJolai at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 04:40:53 -0400
Subject: KISS
KISS
KEEP IT SIMPLE DUMMIE!
I agree completely!
Why make something difficult! ?
If you do that then beginners will be scared off!
That's a dumb thing to do!
We need newcomers!
Return to table of contents
From: "Edward J. Kendall" <sa202789 at fsinet.or.jp>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 17:51:17 +-900
Subject: gelatin momism/momily
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Fellow Brewers,
Others have indicated their impatience with momilies and momisms. This =
is one of my favorites and one of the most frequently repeated. I have =
never seen the "reason." Can someone tell me why we can NEVER boil the =
gelatine? It didn't come from my mom, she always boiled the Jello (tm) =
and it never failed. =20
My other favorite is that we can NEVER boil the wort covered. Is there =
a reason other than the obvious danger of boil overs? I can get a much =
more vigorous boil covered, without a boil over (big pot). Isn't that =
good? Is there a trade off here? Am I missing something? I really =
don't like "always" and "never" without substantiation.
Thanx for all the good advice in the past and thanks for allowing my =
gripes. Al for my 2 cents on the HBD length/frequency issue - I vote =
for the down arrow, or in emergencies, the delete button.
Ed Kendall, AIRDALE BREWING, Sasebo, Japan
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From: Michael Ditty <mjtditty at bluenose.UWaterloo.ca>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 8:11:40 EDT
Subject: Motown Beer Fest.
Attention all beer lovers in the Detroit and Windsor area.
I have two tickets for sale for the Rivertown Beer Festival in Detroit for July
26.
Personal e-mail replies only.
mike
Return to table of contents
From: Fred Hardy <fcmbh at access.digex.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 08:14:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Comments on #2113 (Friday, 19 July 1996)
> From: Brian S Kuhl <Brian_S_Kuhl at ccm.fm.intel.com>
> I plan on doing an all grain wheat brew. I am concerned if a single
> infusion at ~155 degrees for 1 hour will work with all that wheat. I am
> new to all-grain brewing (one batch). Here is the grain bill.
> 5# Gambrinus Premium 2-Row Malt
> 1# Gambrinus "Light" Munich
> 6# Great Western Winter Wheat Malt
[SNIP]
At 155 dF you will get full conversion in less than an hour. If I were
doing this brew I would plan 1 hour at closer to 150 dF (65 dC) to produce
a lighter mouthfeel, but that's personal taste. Malted wheat has very high
enzyme levels, so conversion is never a problem. It also has no hulls, so
stuck runoff can be a problem with high percentages of malted wheat in the
grist bill. Your 50/50 should cause no problems. I have never had a
problem at 60% wheat. Above that I use oat hulls in the mash, just in
case.
- ---------------------------------------
> From: Gregory King <GKING at ARSERRC.Gov>
[SNIP]
> The following will be of interest to those of you who brew recipes that
> call for invert sugar.
>
> 400 g of honey may be used as a substitute for each 300 g of invert
> sugar.
[SNIP]
> Luckily, honey contains glucose and fructose in roughly equal
> proportions (as is the case in invert sugar), so for our purposes as
> homebrewers, honey is essentially invert sugar diluted with water. Use
> 4 parts of honey (by weight) for each 3 parts of invert sugar called
> for in your recipes.
Your analysis is correct if you discount the flavor and aroma effects of
honey. Many recipes which lend themselves to the use of invert sugar would
not fare well with a healthy dollop (say, 1lb or more) of honey thrown in.
Making invert sugar is very easy. Dissolve 1 pound of cane sugar in 1/4
cup of water in a stainless steel or enamel pot. Warm until syrupy, then
add 1/8 teaspoon tartaric acid and heat a few minutes until light golden.
Do not boil. [source: Zymurgy,Vol 17, No. 1, Spring 1994, "How Sweet It Is
- - Brewing With Sugar" by Jeff Frane.
NOTE: If you continue to heat the syrup (do not boil) it will get
progressively darker which may be desireable in some recipes for brown
beers. Also, Lyle's Golden Syrup, available locally in both Super Markets
and Homebrew shops, is simply invert sugar.
- ------------------------------------ >
> From: BR Rolya <brrolya at cs.columbia.edu>
> Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 15:25:00 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Miller Address
> <A few issues ago somebody posted that they E-mailed Miller's
> <brewmaster. Could you please post the address again?
>
> Here it is: David Ryder <miller at execpc.com>
>
> I would encouage people to write to him, not because I
> really care about Miller's products, or would ever be induced
> to try their new beer, but because I resent the fact that they
> are trying to capitalize on the burgeoning interest in craft
> beers while at the same time targeting people who don't know
> that the concept of the "heart of the hops" is a crock of
> *** and that the reduction of bitterness is antithetical to
> real beer.
I hate to see these comments. They reflect a limited knowledge of beer
styles, many of which are considered "world class" yet have little or no
perceptible hop bitterness. As for Miller Beer, I think it may lead the
pack for this style. I don't drink it regularly, 'cause I don't care for
the style, but if I did, I think Miller Beer would be my choice.
- -----------------------------------
> From: Jesse <souki at hawaii.edu>
> I have been brewing beer here in Hawaii for a year now. Up till now the
> local brew supply store was fine, but now that I want to get more
> creative, I find them lacking. Can anyone suggest a good mail order
> homebrew supply. Mainly concerned with quality, selection, and service.
I would recommend William's Brewing in San Leandro, CA. I find them to be
an excellent source for items not available locally (Washington, DC). I
give them an "A" on your main concerns, and they are as close to you as
they can get and still stay out of the ocean.
William's Brewing
2594 Nicholson Street
P.O. Box 2195
San Leandro, CA 94577
Order Line: 1-800-759-6025 (8-5 M-F, 10-5 Sat)
I have no affiliation, just a satisfied customer, etc., etc., etc.
Cheers, Fred
===========================================================================
We must invent the future, else it will | <Fred Hardy>
happen to us and we will not like it. |
[Stafford Beer, "Platform for Change"] | email: fcmbh at access.digex.net
Return to table of contents
From: Paul A. Hausman <paul at lion.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 17:50:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Herbal Flavorings -- Has Anyone Tried...?
OK, Summer's dragging on and I've been brewing up a lot of standard
old pale ales and Bavarian weiss. Suddenly I get this stupid
urge to get creative. My homegrown herbs are full and fat.
So, I'm thinking of taking a 5 gal batch of a simple light
ale, low hopping; splitting it to 2-5 secondaries and
experimenting with a gallon or two of various fresh-herbed
ales. The old stand-by of jalepenos just seems a bit too
common. A few of the things I've considered putting into
the mix, alone or in combination, are horseraddish, dill (Maybe
with some cucumber too -- beer and a pickle in a glass?),
rosemary, sage, mustard, and basil.
Anyone had any experience putting any of these (or anything
else really unique) into an ale?
Should I have any concerns with killing or suppressing the yeast
(do these fella's like spicy food?)
Any advice or experience would be welcome. Private e-mail
between us freak-brewers if you prefer.
***************************************************************************
* Paul A. Hausman Paul at Lion.com *
* Lion Technology Inc. Voice: (201) 383-0800 *
* P.O. Box 700, Lafayette, NJ 07848 Fax: (201) 383-2459 *
***************************************************************************
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From: genitom at nyslgti.gen.ny.us (Michael A. Genito)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 08:36:46 -0400
Subject: RE: Gelatine Fining
Daniel Lanicek wrote:"I recently read in BYOB that by adding gelatin to
secondary fermentation you can increase the clarity of the beer...Does this
work? Is it worth it?"
- -----------------------------------
Dan, I read this too, and have used it both in secondary, and in other cases
at bottling time. The gelatine does seem to add some clarity. One thing I've
noted is that after bottling, wait a day and twist the bottles back and
forth a bit. It seems the gelatine particles settle sometimes on the side of
Grolsch type bottles. On the other hand, I've also used isinglas and found
it to be a better clarifier, and in many cases, additional clarity is not
needed if the yeast settles out well. Good luck either way.
- -MG
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From: DONBREW at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:04:53 -0400
Subject: concrete fermenter
Bill,
>Wasn't there a post quite a while back about not storing beer in the
>basements of new houses for a period of time (5 years?)? It was due of a
>chemical either in the concrete of the basement walls, or something they
>used to treat it. I had a friend brew for the first time in a new house
>(before I read the post), and his beer had a distinct 'off' flavor
I believe that was in reference to a fungus or bacteria that lives in soil
and emerges when the soil is disturbed. I have a randomly occuring similar
problem in my brew-basement; only half of the basement is floored, the other
half is bare earth sometimes below the water table. The infections I get do
strange things to my beer, like funny colors, green apple vinegar etc. even
when I use a large starter and get very fast startups. The really curious
thing is that if I throw another batch of wort ontop of the dregs from one of
these bad batches the resulting brew turns out fine (it was an accident,
don't ask).
Don
Falls Church, Va.
donbrew at aol.com
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From: Kathy Booth <kbooth at ingham.k12.mi.us>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:36:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Cookbooks
Mark asked for cookbook recommendations. I enjoy "Real Beer and Good
Eats" subtitled "The Rebirth of America's Beer and Food Traditions with
175 recipes. Written by Bruce Aidelles and Dennis Kelly published by
Alfred A Knopf in 1992.
It has a history of beer in America and takes the regions of America with
the beer and food differences. Many notable food and drink establishments
are noted as well.
This is a combination of cookbook, history, travel and I learned much and
have aa list of places to visit. Cheers, jim booth, lansing, mi
P.S. For those concerned about the length of the HBD, its the time it
takes to read it. I appreciate those who respond privately and a summary
is posted. I also appreciate those who place their signiture and email
address at the end of their submissions so I don't waste time finding the
info back at their heading. Thanks and I'd welcome other time saving
suggestions. jim booth, lansing, mi kbooth at isd.ingham.k12.mi.us
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From: David Conger <dconger at hal.hscribe.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:31:11 -0400
Subject: Bitter dregs
>The "Heart of the Hops" is what's left of whole Galena flowers once most
>of the bitter resins have been removed for use in Miller's other beers.
Their orignial ad campaign "Made from the dregs of our other beers" did
poorly in test markets. :)
- -- David Conger
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From: Robert Hatcher <rhatcher at freenet.tlh.FL.us>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:37:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Milkshakes and Atlanta Brewpubs
Thanks to one and all for your responses. In general, use ice cream,
malted milk, and your favorite stout -- mix slowly and/or a little at a
time. Like/dislike responses were mixed. Also in the movie Cannery Row,
starring Nick Nolte and Debra Winger, Nick orders one at a . Also, I
will try one next time in B'ham.
On the subject of Atlanta Brewpubs ... there are 3 located in Buckhead:
John Harvards, Atlanta Beergarten, and one opening 7/20, Cherokee
Brewing (located about 3 blocks north of the other 2 on Roswell Road).
There is also one in Athens, don't know the name. Other than
that, there are several fine bars that serve many micros. Taco Mac, 3-4
locations, has the largest selection.
Robert Hatcher "...growing older but not up..."(jb)
Online System Support
Southern Company Services, Atlanta
- ------------------------------
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From: Gary.Clark at server1.DO.uintah.k12.ut.us (Gary Clark)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:02:35 -0700
Subject: Re:Fridge for Kegging, Heart of the hops
Subject: Fridge for Kegging
>>>>
Have seen the advert for a "beer home" which
looks about like an old Ice box with the taps on top. Would you tear the
guts out of an old fridge and build a new cooler for this application.
Com'on fess up, someone is smarter than me, tell me about it...Please?
John in Mississippi 'nother Brew'n Fool!
<<<<<<
I used to build wine cellars for a living. One of my most popular
items was a portable cellar that we built using the guts from one of those
little office fridges. I believe one could be built into a keg cooler
using about the same techniques we did building the wine cellars.
The metal located around the freezer compartment is actually the
cooling unit. We housed it in a false top and ventilated into the main
compartment with a small computer fan. Make sure the cabinet is very well
insulated. Because of the weather stripping, getting doors to close tight
enough was a major problem. I think if I were to do it again I would build
something using brass ice box hardware which is available from specialty
woodworking suppliers such as the Wood Workers Store or Woodcraft supply.
They have a very positive closing latch.
>>>>>
The "Heart of the Hops" is what's left of whole Galena flowers once most
of the bitter resins have been removed for use in Miller's other beers.
The reason they use this hop extract in stead of whole hops is because
it must be first processed so that the resulting beer doesn't skunk
(remember... they use clear bottles for several of their beers). Try it.
You can't skunk Miller High Life using light of any kind.
<<<<<
I wondered why miller wouldn't skunk. I recall a thread not long
back where the consensous was that Heineken and Mickey's must intentionally
skunk their beer as even new from sealed case bottles have the taste.
Is it possible that they are using UV sterilizers to cold
pastureize their beer? From my understanding of the issue, skunking is
caused by exposure to UV light.
Can anyone shed...er.. more light on the subject?
New to brewing and just de-lurking....
Gary W. Clark
- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Gary W. Clark NB7B
Computer Technician AFA5GC
Uintah School District 801-781-3100
635 W 200 S 801-781-3107 FAX
VERNAL UT 84078 Gary.Clark at server1.DO.uintah.k12.ut.us
The opinons expressed here may or may not be my own or anyone else's.
I love Northern Spotted Owls (they taste like chicken)
- -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
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From: jp at uask4it-65.Eng.Sun.COM (Josh Price)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:00:14 -0700
Subject: Full Boil
Hi All,
I've switched to a ten gallon system and am having
a difficult time achieving a good boil on my converted keg brewpot.
It takes 30-45 minutes to get the wort to simmer and another 30-45
minutes to bring it to a full boil. Do I have to wait for the full
boil to add my bittering hops and start timing or is it OK to begin
when after it starts to simmer? Also, the reason the boil is so slow
is that my system is partially automated and I'm using a seloniod
H2O heater valve to control the gas to my burner. The problem with
the valve is it can only take 1/2 psi without destroying it which only
give me 30,000-35,000 btu's on my 135,000 btu burner. Does anyone know
of a way to overcome this?
Thanks,
J.P.
jp at eng.sun.com
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From: "Dave Hinkle" <Dave.Hinkle at aexp.com>
Date: 19 Jul 1996 09:37:56 -0700
Subject: Removing haze from flaked barley batch
Need help.
Background: My last batch grain bill was 10# 2-row Klages, 1/4# flaked barley,
1oz. roasted barley. My brew day was tight on time, so I did a single infusion
w/ sac. temp of 159F for 60 minutes. I know, I know! I should have done a
protein rest, but time wasn't on my side that day, and the single infusion
allowed me to do other things during the mash.
The good news: OG (fermenter) 1.050 / 6 gal.; fermented w/ Wyeast 1335 (my
new favorite ale yeast) at 68F for 8 days in primary down to SG=1.014. This is
the target SG I was shooting for (012-015 range). Now sitting in a secondary
at 68F, and it tasted great - hoppy, w/ a big "chewy", bread-y malty beer
taste.
The bad news: Haze. Not just chill haze (but I'm sure it'll get worse when
cold), but major haze even at 68F. Some seems to have settled since racking to
secondary 5 days ago. But still has that "muddy" look when I do the penlight
test.
The question: I usually do a protein rest, and have good clarity (using same
yeast - it's a great floc'r). But since I did things the "wrong" way, what is
the best remedy for the secondary to reduce the haze to an acceptable amount?
I'm pretty certain it isn't yeast or starch, but most likely to be big
proteins. I've read about papain and Polyclar in several books, but have never
used either. I knew going into this batch that flaked barley can cause haze
problems, so it's usually used only in porters. But I like to experiment, and
1/4# flaked barley didn't seem like a large amount for a pale ale. The last
time I had a batch this cloudy in the secondary it was from 3# of mango pulp,
and pectic enzyme cured it w/ amazing results (after gelatine was tried to no
avail), so I'm optimistic that there is a magic bullet for this batch too.
Any advice / experience with either fining? My concern w/ papain is the effect
it will have on the big body the batch seems to have. Will it go too far and
make the beer seem "watery"? I understand that Polyclar precipitates out
tannins, but I'm not so sure that this is the problem. Is the best answer to
try BOTH? When best to use these? Is it worth the time and expense? Is a
stoneware mug the only answer? Can we make a new AHA category for "Haze Ale"?
Dave Hinkle
Phoenix, AZ
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