---

   FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
        Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
        Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
  decoction/wheat grind (M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (bayerospace at mac))
  RE: Why Not Aluminum?  ("Keith Royster")
  Re: Iodophor for fruit sanitation ((Mike Uchima))
  Yeast and hops suppliers in Germany (Jorge Blasig - IQ)
  Real fruit the easy way ("Kevin Imel")
  Beginning all grain/Rubbermaid coolers (Jeremy Mirsky)
  Political correctness (GSHUTELOCK at aol.com)
  Fruit Extracts (And by Extension) Smoked Malts (Rob Moline)
  oxygen barrier bags (Barrowman at aol.com)
  NG Burner Source (Jim Overstreet)
  Brew Sans Starter? ((JIM ANDERSON))
  Too Cold for Yeast? ((JIM ANDERSON))
  First Kegging ("Richard A. Riley")
  re esters abound ((Craig Wynn))
  the real deal on mashing? ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  13 day ferment normal? (Ron)
  Wholesale ((Laszlo Somogyi))
  Wholesale ((Laszlo Somogyi))
  Wholesale ((Laszlo Somogyi))
  Filtration of flavor proteins (Grace and Chuck Burkins)
  Re: Home Distillation Manual here ((biohazrd))
  Re: Can anyone recommend a good NG burner? ("Roger Deschner ")
  Iodophor for Fruit Sanitation ((biohazrd))
  Hop side shoots ((John (The Coyote) Wyllie))
  cooking with beer ((John (The Coyote) Wyllie))

For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
  homebrew at aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
  homebrew-digest-request@ aob.org
  and include only subscribe or unsubscribe in the body of the message.

Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
  a one line e-mail to listserv at ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
  then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor, shawn at aob.org.

OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
  http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
  http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
  info at aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.

ARCHIVES:
  At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp.  Also
  http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo at aob.org by e-mail.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (bayerospace at mac)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:52 -0600
Subject: decoction/wheat grind

collective homebrew conscience: 
 
some remarks/attempted answers re: tom gaskell's recent decoction submission: 
 
*if you're not interested in decoction mashing, for god's sake, get out now.* 
 
for the sake of space, i'm not including tom's stuff in its entirety. 
 
>- - Take BIG decoctions. 
 
my experience supports this.  i do mostly single decoctions where the boost 
is from 131 F to saccharification temps, typically 151-154 F, and i can just 
barely get there with a big decoction usually.  my rest mash vessel is my 
brewpot, so luckily i can add heat.   has anybody out there ever overshot 
the target temp. after recombination? 
 
 
>- - Get as much grain and as little mash liquor within reason as you 
>can in the decoctions, and thin them with treated water. 
>  I add distilled water <snip>, and 
>about an eighth of a teaspoon of gypsum to the decoction and have not 
>extracted any discernable tannins or astringency from the husks. 
 
i use sparge water, made up in advance.  pH=5.7 ( at  room temp), usually. 
i agree with tom's contention that the cheap paper pH strips are not 
sufficiently accurate. i use baxter plastic 3 color strips.  anybody ever had 
problems with these, or know how accurate they are? 
 
>- -  The thick boil spews globs 
>hot grain each time it bubbles,<snip> 
 
 
i normally cover the decoction once it boils, and turn the heat down so i 
get an even, steady boil.  using the lid allows lower heat on the bottom, and 
keeps evaporation to a minimum, both of which help to prevent scorching. 
 
>I have conducted a triple decoction on 100% Vienna malt and not 
>gotten the intense maltiness that I wanted.  I boiled each thick 
>decoction for 30 minutes and got plenty of browning, but I had hoped 
>for a really malty beer, which never quite came about.  I sparged 
>with slightly less water than went into the main mash and got around 
>26 pts/lb/gal, but not as much maltiness as I was trying for.  Did 
>I oversparge?  I have read George Fix's "Yummy Malt Flavor" article 
>at the Brewery and was curious if you decoction wizards agree with 
>him (use 33% more grain, and no or minimal sparging). 
 
 
first off, i would agree with george fix about being able to get a maltier 
beer from first runnings. (but don't waste the spargings, man.) 
 
assuming your mashing went properly, this doesn't sound like oversparging to 
me.  check your final spargings next time.  that's the best way to tell if 
you're oversparging.  when the gravity drops to around 1.010, stop.  your 
original and terminal gravities are important to help determine how great 
your attenuation was.  perhaps your saccharification temp. needs to be 
increased slightly.  i get pretty good results at around 154 F for vienna 
malt.  you could try a little munich malt in the grist, also. 
 
><snip> I want to 
>know what happens during the second decoction.<snip>  doesn't the long 
>rest at the low end of the sacchrification range break down excessive 
>amounts of starch into simple sugars at the expense of dextrins? 
> What sort of decoction schedule is 
>used for the rich malty sweetness of a bock?  Is it possible to 
>achieve this with a standard triple decoction, or must the rest at 
>about 150F be adjusted to a higher temp to get more dextrins? 
 
when is your rest mash in the low end of the saccharification range?  my 
understanding of a traditional triple decoction is that the boosts are used 
to go from 1) acid rest T to protein rest T; 2) protein rest T to sacch. T; 
and 3) sacch. T to mash out.  there shouldn't be a point in here where 
your rest mash is in the 140-150 F range, if you want a dextrinous beer. 
by all means, don't let that rest mash sit at 140-150 F.  keep your 
saccharification temp above 150 if you can, and don't let it drop.  be careful 
with those enzymes, though. you don't have many to start with if you're 
using vienna/munich malt. 
 
***************** 
 
re:  grinding wheat 
 
i've not had a stuck mash with finely ground wheat (60/40 wheat/barley), but 
i did notice that my spargings did not clear well.  this led to a massive 
amount of hot break in the kettle.  anybody else had this happen? 
 
the beer turned out good, despite this.  best of show at the memphis comp. 
 
sorry for the excess, but these are good topics and i'm curious to know 
what the rest of you think. 
 
brew hard, 
 
mark bayer 
 
 
 
 
 
sorry for the excessive length, but these are topics near to my heart. 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: "Keith Royster" <keith.royster at ponyexpress.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 18:35:58 +0500
Subject: RE: Why Not Aluminum? 

Eric Schoville asks: 
 
> I have heard that it is best to not use Aluminum to boil your 
> wort.  I only recently found this out, and I have to say that I 
> boiled my last batch in a coated aluminum stock pot that I had 
> handy.  Could somebody please clear this up for me?  Do I need to 
> purchase a stainless steel stockpot? 
 
There are supposedly two reasons, but I think neither are valid.  The 
first is simply that aluminum will impart a metallic taste to your 
beer.  I have *never* heard of anyone substantiating this claim and I 
know of plenty of people who use aluminum in their brewing process, 
including myself (aluminum pizza screen for a false bottom). 
 
The second reason you will hear is that aluminum has been associated 
with Alzheimers disease.  A recent study found traces of aluminum in 
the brains of Alzheimers victims, so at first doctors thought their 
might be a cause-and-effect relationship.  However, I have been told 
by more than one person that this study has since been debunked. 
Apparently the aluminum came, not from the brain, but from solutions 
added to the tissue during the testing process.  I know this is 
mostly "he said - she said", so I'm more than willing to listen to 
someone who can speak with more authority, but until then I'm not 
loosing any sleep. 
 
- ------------------------- 
 
Warren (schnibbe at cdsnet.com) emailed me with questions about my RIMS 
web page a couple of weeks ago.  Warren, if you are reading, I tried 
to email you but it bounced back.  Let me know if you get this and 
I'll try again. 
 
 
 
Keith Royster - keith.royster at ponyexpress.com 
Mooresville, North Carolina 
        at your.service - http://dezines.com/ at your.service 
Carolina BrewMasters - http://dezines.com/ at your.service/cbm 
        My RIMS page - http://dezines.com/ at your.service/RIMS 

Return to table of contents


From: uchima at fncrd8.fnal.gov (Mike Uchima)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 17:57:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Iodophor for fruit sanitation

Al said: 
> Do you see any problems with using iodophor for sanitizing fruit? 
> I was thinking of a 15 min soak followed by a rinse in boiled/cooled 
> tapwater.  Any problems you can think of?  Primarily I'm thinking of 
> blueberries and raspberries because I've had trouble blanching these 
> (they fall apart when you dip frozen berries in boiling water for few 
> seconds -- I ended up having to put the blanching water right into the 
> secondary too). 
 
I'd wonder about how much Iodophor is still on/in the fruit -- the skin on 
frozen fruit is not intact, I'm sure some of the Iodophor would get inside. 
And, conversely, I'd also wonder how much of the fruit juice is being left 
behind in the Iodophor and rinse water. 
 
For frozen berries, I've had pretty good luck just heating them with a little 
water (just barely enough water to prevent scorching) to about 160F, and 
holding them there for a half hour. Chill to ferment temp, and dump the 
resulting berry slurry into the secondary before racking the beer into it. 
 
Works for me. 
 
- -- Mike Uchima 
- -- uchima at fncrd8.fnal.gov 

Return to table of contents


From: Jorge Blasig - IQ <gisalb at elmer.fing.edu.uy>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 19:55:42 -0300 (UY)
Subject: Yeast and hops suppliers in Germany

  This message is in MIME format.  The first part should be readable text, 
  while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools. 
  Send mail to mime at docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info. 
 
- --1900042509-1379262811-838421742=:12608 
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII 
 
 
Dear Friends: 
 
I have a friend in Germany who could bring me yeasts and hops. Does 
anybody know brew stores there where he can find yeasts and hops; specially 
close or in Stuttgart? Please, keep me informed. 
 
Thanks 
 
Jorge Blasig 
 
- --1900042509-1379262811-838421742=:12608-- 

Return to table of contents


From: "Kevin Imel" <kimel at moscow.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:20:07 +8
Subject: Real fruit the easy way

Greetings! 
 
I notice that the yearly "how do I use fruit in my beer" thread has 
reappeared once again so I guess I will toss in my tried and true 
method.  I have used this with both blackberries and raspberries but 
it should work for most of the berries out there. 
 
I start with at least 1 lb per gallon of fresh or frozen fruit, so, 
for 5 gal use 5 lbs of fruit. 
 
Place these in a pot for which you have a good lid and add a bit of 
water.  This water helps to transfer the heat to the berries which 
breaks them down into a slurry. 
 
Be careful to keep the temp at around 160 degrees but not much higher 
or the pectins will set...no big deal if you do, you just made jam instead of 
beer!  I generally hold the 160 temp for 20 to 30 minutes and then 
take the pan off the heat and cover it with the lid. 
 
When the temp hits around 100 I add pectic enzyme to break down those 
nasty haze inducing pectins and release more juice (well, that is 
what it says on the package).  I don't know the proper temp range for 
this enzyme but 100 seems to work for me (if anyone knows the proper 
temp please post!). 
 
I then let this whole mess cool down to around 75 to 80 degrees and 
pour into the primary and give it a good swirl.  I generally add the 
berry slurry to the primary after most of the primary fermentation 
has finished (3-4 days).  I then rack to the secondary when 
fermenation settles down again. 
 
At one time  I ran the slurry through a jelly bag to strain out the pulp and 
seeds (if you don't know how to do this ask your grandmother, I'll 
bet she did it for her county fair prize winning jellies!  Mine 
did.).  I did this because I was afraid racking would be difficult 
with the seeds and pulp.  However, I forgot to do this one time and 
will never do it again.  It is a lot of trouble to strain everything 
out and the racking process went along without any problems. 
 
The few seeds that do come through into the secondary can easily be 
avoided when you rack out for bottling or kegging. 
 
I have used this method several times and have always gotten a really 
good aroma and flavor from the berries as well a killer color!  I get 
no pectin haze problems and no noticable tannins from the berries. 
 
Hope this inspires and helps everyone. 
 
Cheers! 
 
Kevin 
 
___________________________ 
Kevin Imel 
kimel at moscow.com 
Palouse, Washinington USA 
 
"The only way to truely fail is to fail to try" 
 
For a copy of my pgp public key send message with subject "SEND PGP KEY" 

Return to table of contents


From: Jeremy Mirsky <mirsjer at charlie.cns.iit.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 18:31:43 -0700
Subject: Beginning all grain/Rubbermaid coolers

Well the time has come for me to try all-grain. I don't want to bother with the
partial-mash. Last weekend I found a 10gal. Rubbermaid water cooler for $25 at 
a
dollar-type store here in Chicago. First question : Is the Gott line of coolers
the
same as the Rubbermaid coolers without the "Gott" logo? This is an orange 
cooler. Will
it stand up to the same temperatures as an actual "Gott" cooler? 
 
#2: I've read what seems like tons of articles, faqs, etc. on converting 
coolers, each a
bit different. I plan on purchasing the Phil's Phalse bottom for the 10gal. 
Aside from
this, do I need to replace the spigot? If so, with a plain brass fitting? As 
far as
sparging goes, can I simply use a collander suspended over the cooler? As a 
financially
constrained graduate student, I'd like to do this very inexpensively. 
 
 
Any advice, insight, or words of wisdom (re: beginning all-grain) anyone can 
send this
way would be appreciated. 
Thanks. 
 
Jeremy 

Return to table of contents


From: GSHUTELOCK at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 22:17:04 -0400
Subject: Political correctness

Whoever NOKOMAREE is, he/she had a good point.  Simple questions should be 
answered simply.  I didn't read NOKOMAREE as saying that the questions were 
dumb or stupid - but rather that the self-annointed brew gurus who think they 
own this digest are being assinine when they elevate those questions into an 
exercise in mental masturbation and try to make simple problems more complex 
than necessary.  The only ones who came out looking like fools were the 
political correct respondants who got themselves into huffs over the whole 
thing.  HBD has indeed become irrelevant.  Perhaps the best answers to the 
lurkers and novices would be to advise them to read a good homebrewing 
primer.  There may or may not be such a thing as a stupid question but one 
thing is now certain - there are plenty of dumb answers.  As for me - I'm 
signing off HBD - I've got better things to do with my time, like brewing 
beer. 
 
Sayonara - George 

Return to table of contents


From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 21:22:23 -0500
Subject: Fruit Extracts (And by Extension) Smoked Malts

>From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM> 
 Go to the store and buy three different kinds of 
>apples and taste them side by side, the difference may astound you. My point 
>isn't that good beers can't be made with fruit extracts it is, given this 
>marvelous availability of fresh fruit with complex tastes, why would you use 
an
>extract? 
 
        Repeatability, consistency, and ease of use. Your point about the 
three different kinds of apples is appropriate, but take it one step 
further. Buy a peck of raspberries or strawberries. One berry may be 
beautiful and sweet and the next bitter and sharp. Yes, they may tend to 
average each other out, but I see it in the same light as smoking your own 
malt, at least in my past efforts. You may make one fruit beer that is 
superb and the same recipe at a later date  won't quite achieve the same 
effect. Smoking malt is nice and easy to do, but inabilities to achieve 
consistent smoky character, from batch to batch of malt from your smoker is 
why I use Hugh Bairds smoked malts, and California Brands fruit extracts. I 
believe that they are better able than I, to deliver a consistency in their 
products, that I can count on. 
Jethro 
 
Cheers! 
Rob Moline 
Little Apple Brewing Company 
Manhattan, Kansas 
 
"The more I know about beer, the more I realize I need to know more about 
beer!"
 

Return to table of contents


From: Barrowman at aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 07:02:57 -0400
Subject: oxygen barrier bags

I know I have seen this posted before but can't remember when.... I am 
looking for oxygen barrier bags of various sizes. A friend is opening a 
homebrew supply and is looking for smaller bags, 4"x6" max, ~1/2 to 4 ounce 
sizes, heat sealable. So far all he has been able to locate is large bags 
that would hold a pound or two. Thanks. 

Return to table of contents


From: Jim Overstreet <wa5dxp at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 11:08:02 +0000
Subject: NG Burner Source

Joe Fleming requested source info on a good Natural Gas burner.  Having 
made the same quest, I can heartily recommend the heavy-duty 2-ring 
cast iron burners sold by the Home Depot chain.  Cost is about $18, and 
they are designed for Propane.  Simply drill out the jet in 1/32" 
increments (start at 1/16") till you get the flow you want.  I don't know 
the BTU output, but it will make a 15 gallon kettle do a tap dance, quick. 
I replaced all my Korean-made burners with these.  You can find these 
replacement burners in the outdoors/bbq grill section.  I installed 
a 3/8" brass lever valve at the base of the burner, and feed the thing 
with 1/2" plastic garden hose. 
 
For those with LOTS of money, there was a company at the Homebrew Bayou 
equipment display, that was selling a large 2-ring burner, with a separate 
control valve for each ring, and had a built-in igniter to start 
the flame.  These units are large, and were selling for around $120.  I 
have the brochure here somewhere if you need further details. 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: jim.anderson at execnet.com (JIM ANDERSON)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 96 08:29:00 -0500
Subject: Brew Sans Starter?

How about some collective input on this question: 
 
What's the best way to pitch a batch when you don't have a starter 
prepared? 
 
Sure, I remember just soaking the dry yeast in 100-degree water, and I 
remember throwing in smack packs as is, and don't bemoan the results of 
them.  But is there a better way?  (BTW, I have a bottle of leftover 
1056 from my last batch sitting in the frig.) 
 
I woke up this morning with an overwhelming urge to brew (and the time 
to do it), but only unbroken smack packs and that leftover bottle for 
yeast.  It's probably overly-optimistic to expect any answers on HBD 
today, but who knows?  Even if not, this situation is sure to arise 
again. 
 
What I decided to do (until and unless I hear something by pitch time) 
is to make a starter with the leftover 1056 and just hope it's halfway 
ready in time. 
 
Thanks to all. 
 
  - Jim 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: jim.anderson at execnet.com (JIM ANDERSON)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 96 09:38:00 -0500
Subject: Too Cold for Yeast?

I just did my morning check and it turns out I've got another question 
now.  The neighbor kids have apparently found another toy to play with 
- -- my thermostat (the frig is beneath my carport, right along our common 
fence).  I had a batch of Grand Cru in the secondary at 65F (Wyeast 
1056).  This morning, the internal frig temp was 38F (the Fermometer on 
the carboy showed 40F). 
 
Did my yeasties get killed through low temp or thermal shock?  Will they 
revive?  (No, I won't ask if my beer is ruined! <g>) 
 
Unless and until I get any good answers from the collective, I've 
decided upon this: add about another quart 1056 starter (without 
aerating) and continue the secondary for about another week or so.  Does 
this sound reasonable? How about breaking the kids' fingers?  (My first 
choice, still under consideration .... ) 
 
Public or email response would be VERY welcome! 
 
  - Jim 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: "Richard A. Riley" <rapid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 12:51:22 -0400
Subject: First Kegging

As a beginner, I normally lurk, but I just have to ask a few questions 
at the risk of a Nokomaree response. 
 
I brewed my first batch with a pale ale kit from Mr Beer (go ahead and 
laugh, but you have to start somewhere) It turned out well enough and 
bad enough for me to move to a higher level of brewing.  I invested in a 
glass carbouy and all the accessories to brew a 5 gal batch.  I used the 
Otto Hoxxeim All Malt Muenchner Helles, 7lbs extract for 5 gal batch. 
Fermentation lasted about 5 days and all activity stopped (not sure on 
the exact lenth of time as I was out of town).  I started with a OG of 
1.052 and finished with a FG of 1.010 (I think, I'm not real good at 
figuring the temp conversions and reading the hydrometer yet).  The brew 
smelled fine, tasted fine and was a little carbonated befor Kegging. 
After the Mr Beer experience I decided to move to kegging.  I use the 5 
liter Mini kegs.  My questions I'm sure have been ask before. 
 
1.  How full do you fill the kegs? 
 
2.  With the Mr beer kit I had to add water to the bottles.  Is that 
necessary when Kegging a 5 gal batch?  If so how much water is 
recommended for a keg. 
 
3.  The batch filled three kegs nicely to about an inch from the top, 
but the last was only half full.  Is the last keg going to be 
undrinkable? 
 
4.  How long do I let in set before I give it a try. 
 
5.  I am striving to brew a batch as close as possible to a beer I drank 
an excessive quantity of for 8 years in germany, Augustiner Helles.  It 
seems from the postings on HBD that most people prefer to brew the 
heaver beers, However, if someone out there has a recipe for Augustiner 
hells I would really like to try it.  As I'm just getting started, I 
prefer to use and extract type kit. 
 
 
 
Rick Riley 
 
rapid at earthlink.net 
 
"Any brew worth drinking is worth brewing yourself" 

Return to table of contents


From: cwynn at sawyer.ndak.net (Craig Wynn)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 17:33:35 GMT
Subject: re esters abound

>i just bottled what was supposed to be a northwest style somewhat 
>bitter ale, and boy does it taste like a belgian.  what the hell 
>happened?  i used wyeast's 1098 british ale yeast, which i've used 
>before with great success, and it tastes like i used the 1214 belgian 
>abbey ale yeast, which i've also used with even greater success.  has 
>anyone heard of wyeast mislabeling their packets? 
> 
>anyway, the recipe was: 
> 
I do not want to alarm you but this ester character that you are 
describing sounds like what I've been dealing with recently;  a low 
level contamination? 
 
I am into a third successive brew and have come to the conclusion that 
what I thought was the effects of the yeast is in fact an undetermined 
level of bacteria contaminate. 
 
I brewed with a trappist yeast then a belgian ale and now with a 
german ale all brewed up from Yeast Lab slants. I got the same ester 
and taste form ALL three. It wasn't until this last batch that I 
happened to ferment some extra wort in a separate jug that I concluded 
that I had contamination.The results in the  jug didn't end up like 
that in the main carboy. The jug turned into beer the carboy is a very 
estery sour/bitter concoction. If I take a sniff of it, it clears my 
sinus. It is not a bad smell just not much of a beer smell. Its a 
strong banana, almost out of the banana range. It went through a 
grapefruit taste to a flavor that is tough to describe. 
 
If this isn't your problem then consider that your summer brewing temp 
may be a factor here. In my basement room temp is around 69f to 70f 
about 10f above my spring fall and winter time room temperatures. 
 
My recent experiences have caught me off guard. I've never experienced 
contamination. I brew alone, with no contact with other brewers where 
I live which might have alerted me to think along these lines. I have 
yet to find much written about what typifies a bacteria infection. 
 
craig 

Return to table of contents


From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at galen.med.virginia.edu>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 15:05:24 -0400
Subject: the real deal on mashing?

I've read a lot in books and on the digest about mashing 
sechedules. But I still am not able to explain it to anyone. 
We have people talking about Decoction when practically  every 
malt available is very modified. There are all these differeent 
temp. steps form 95F for acidification up to 170F to cut off the 
enzymes. Is there a reference for mashing that will let me know 
with this malt and for this style I need to mash like this. 
I know some one out there must have a handle on this but I have 
not found it. 
Rick Pauly 
NucMedTech 
Charlottesville,VA 

Return to table of contents


From: Ron <dittohead at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 21:40:32 +0000
Subject: 13 day ferment normal?

I was going to bottle a five gallon container of Irish Stout today that has 
been fermenting for thirteen days.  There has been no activity through the 
airlock for at least three days.  Nevertheless, I decided to take a reading 
from my hyrdometer and got 1016???  After thirteen days?  Could it still be 
fermenting and there is just so little activity I never see the airlock 
move?  Or should I go ahead and bottle? 
 
Thanks! 
 
Ron 
I LOVE MY COUNTRY BUT 
DISTRUST MY GOVERNMENT 
  Ron 
 

Return to table of contents


From: atilagum at ite.net (Laszlo Somogyi)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 10:01:11 +1000
Subject: Wholesale

>Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 09:38:19 +1000 
>To:homebrew-digest at aob.org 
>From:atilagum at ite.net (Laszlo Somogyi) 
>Subject:Wholesale 
> 
>I'm interested in seting up a Home Brew supply buisness on the island of 
>Guam. The few of us who brew (would be more, if kits or supplys were 
>available) have to get all our ingridients from the main land or Hawaii. 
>If any one can send me a contact # or address so we can set up our own 
>Home Brew co-op buisness. Thank you. Micronesia Brew Beer Ltd. at 
>atilagum at ite.net 
> 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: atilagum at ite.net (Laszlo Somogyi)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 10:01:08 +1000
Subject: Wholesale

I'm interested in seting up a Home Brew supply buisness on the island of 
Guam. The few of us who brew (would be more, if kits or supplys were 
available) have to get all our ingridients from the main land or Hawaii. If 
any one can send me a contact # or address so we can set up our own Home 
Brew co-op buisness. Thank you. Micronesia Brew Beer Ltd. at 
atilagum at ite.net 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: atilagum at ite.net (Laszlo Somogyi)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 10:01:18 +1000
Subject: Wholesale

>Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 09:57:22 +1000 
>To:homebrew-digest at aob.org 
>From:atilagum at ite.net (Laszlo Somogyi) 
>Subject:Wholesale 
> 
>I'm interested in seting up a Home Brew supply buisness on the island of 
>Guam. The few of us who brew (would be more, if kits or supplys were 
>available) have to get all our ingridients from the main land or Hawaii. 
>If any one can send me a contact # or address so we can set up our own 
>Home Brew co-op buisness. Thank you. Micronesia Brew Beer Ltd. at 
>atilagum at ite.net 
> 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: Grace and Chuck Burkins <burkins at oa.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 07:27:27 -0400
Subject: Filtration of flavor proteins

 
in HBD 2126 John wrote, 
 
<snippage> 
That should still 
pass through a 5 micron filter. I think I saw somewhere that yeast are 
about 7-10 microns. So my conclusion is you can filter your beer through a 
5 micron filter and remove the yeast and any remaining trub and not have 
to worry about filtering out any of the other "flavor" proteins. 
<end quote> 
 
Actually, John, you still have to worry about proteins non-specifically 
adsorbing to the filters, which is why protein chemists, when purifying 
proteins, choose a "Low Protein Binding" filter. Even then you can take some 
losses. If you have enough protein to be filtered, however, you can just do 
it anyway, because once the filter has adsorbed its fill, it won't eat any 
more. Does anybody know how much protein is in solution in beer? (I suppose 
that depends). 
 
Regards, 
Chuck Burkins,    Dedham MA,    burkins at oa.net 
 

Return to table of contents


From: biohazrd at graceba.net (biohazrd)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 11:42:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Home Distillation Manual here

Regarding the statement 
 
>So, how many of us can expect the BATF to come bustin' down the door? 
 
Randy Weaver didn't, The Branch Divididians didn't, and the list goes on 
and on. 
 
The BATF is an outlaw organization of the Federal Government.  They simply 
haven't bothered homebrewers because they are too busy murdering American 
citizens in other areas of their jurisdiction.  Any other law-abiding 
firearm owners out there know what I'm talking about. 
 
As to my use of the term "murder" all individuals who killed federal 
agents in the above two mentioned incidents were found to have acted in 
SELF DEFENSE in two separate court precedings (two in my mind makes a 
trend.) 
 
Homebrewers should unite with gun owners in supporting the dissoluton of 
the BATF and the incorporation of its responsibilities into other , more 
responsible, federal organizations. 
 
Ron 

Return to table of contents


From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 12:13:09 CDT
Subject: Re: Can anyone recommend a good NG burner?

Go to a junk yard and recycle one from a discarded hot water heater. 
 
Roger Deschner      University of Illinois at Chicago     rogerd at uic.edu 
Aliases: u52983 at uicvm.uic.edu    R.Deschner at uic.edu     USUICZ3P at IBMMAIL 
==== Member, Chicago Beer Society -- 1996 Homebrew Club Of The Year ==== 

Return to table of contents


From: biohazrd at graceba.net (biohazrd)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:14:26 -0500
Subject: Iodophor for Fruit Sanitation

Al wrote in the last HBD 
 
> Do you see any problems with using iodophor for sanitizing 
> fruit? I was thinking of a 15 min soak followed by a rinse in 
> boiled/cooled tapwater. 
 
I don't know about iodophor but good ole Clorox will work fine for 
sanitizing the skins of vegerables.  This according to the US Army. When 
stationed in Honduras I purchased vegetables on the civil economy.  The 
Public Health people told us to soak them in a bleach sanitizing solution 
for 15 minutes at a concentration of about 1 Tablespoon per gallon.  This 
was to sanitize the vegetables because the locals used human fertilizer 
and their overall sanitaiton was very poor. 
 
I did as they instructed and never had any problems of any kind, either 
health or taste wise.  I'm really picky about fresh and quality food which 
is why I didn't eat in the mess hall. Any degredation in the quality of 
the food would have been noticed, I assure you. 
 
Good luck 
 
Ron Montefusco 
Biohazard Brewery 
(Drink to Your Health) 

Return to table of contents


From: ccoyote at sunrem.com (John (The Coyote) Wyllie)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 00:29:24 -0600
Subject: Hop side shoots

Jeremy sez... 
 
>difference I've noticed is that whereas side shoots were very rare 
>previously, now I get 2 from vitually every pair of leaves.  I have 
>been cutting these off, but the high ones are getting hard to 
>reach.  What is the consensus for whether to cut or not? 
 
* Don't cut 'em. As you've "heard" these are where the hop cones are formed. 
I cut some of the ones lower down to keep them outa my face and my walks, 
but I usually leave a node or two so some cones will form.  I have wondered 
if pruning some of these shoots back so they can focus their energy would 
be of benefit.  I've observed the biggest/best cones closer to the main 
stem, while the ones at the very tip sometimes are not even worthy of 
harvest.  But, that aside you certainly don't want to cut all of them right 
back, or you reduce/eliminate your harvest. 
 
Cones will form at the nodes of the branch points. More branches=more cones 
              -/-             -/-             -/- 
             -/-             -/-             -/- 
Bottom-------<---------------<---------------<------------>  Up 
             -\-             -\-             -\- 
              -\-             -\-             -\- 
 
You can wrap the side branches back on themselves so they join the main 
vine(s) but if you let them hang out they'll get more sun, grow better, and 
be easier to pick. 
 
People do talk of thinning shoots, but the idea (as I understand it=AIUI) 
is to limit the number of vines originating from the rhizome at the base. 
Leaving only the strongest 3 or so vines to climb upward.  I hacked severly 
on my babies this year, and still cannot get myself to limit growth to just 
3 vines per hill.  They seem to handle the added growth, and produce quite 
well. but for limites of food, light, and space it is worth it IMHO. 
 
                        Let it grow, let it grow, let it grow. 
 
- -------------------------------------------- 
/// The Cosmic Coyote \\\ ccoyote at sunrem.com 
- -------------------------------------------- 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: ccoyote at sunrem.com (John (The Coyote) Wyllie)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 00:29:59 -0600
Subject: cooking with beer

> any suggestions for books on cooking with beer?  Thanks for 
>your time. 
 
 
 
*** 
 
"Cooking and entertaining with beer"  Rob Driver.  ProSe assoc.  1996 
 
It's the only one on that specific topic I've seen. 
I wasn't all that impressed. Its got some recipes,  suggestions for 
entertaining with beer/food.  Not a bad book. I would have preferred a soft 
copy at a softcopy price.  I think it was $25, but its fairly thin. 
 
I've made plenty of food with beer.  Anything simmerred, sauteed, souped, 
or marinated can work great.  There is an art to matching beer flavors with 
food styles.  On the simple end of things, whatever you have on hand at the 
time, or better:  if you would use a white wine, use a light colored beer, 
if you would use a red wine use a darker beer, even stout.  Don't forget to 
account for the bittering quality of a brew. If wine wouldn't be 
appropriate, then you definitely should be using beer!  Pot roast do 
wonders. Start with water, then add been along the way. Add some after 
cooking to add that fine beer aroma, as cooking will burn off most of a 
beers bouquet. 
 
Michael Jackson discusses food and beer, and food in beer in some of his 
books.  Also on the Beerhunter video.  He shows some dinners where the food 
is all made with beer, and a different beer in a different glass is served 
for each course.  Fancy Schmancy!  Wish I was there.... 
                                                        John 
 
- -------------------------------------------- 
/// The Cosmic Coyote \\\ ccoyote at sunrem.com 
- -------------------------------------------- 
 
 

Return to table of contents