Homebrew Digest Wednesday, 13 November 1996 Number 2273

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   FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
        Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
        Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
  Re: DO & equilibrium; O2 toxicity ((Bill Giffin))
  Dropped posts (Dave Greenlee)
  Specialty Malts in Mash? ("Craig Rode")
  oxygenation/aeration ((Brian Pickerill))
  Weyerman Malts ((George De Piro))
  RE:  ESB troubles ((George De Piro))
  Re: Problems with Mash Temp.  (Spencer W Thomas)
  Believe what you read? (Larry Johnson)
  Re: Chambord in beer  (Spencer W Thomas)
  Weyermann Malz (Jim Busch)
  "homebrew" taste ("Bryan L. Gros")
  Re: Beer color... (Joe Rolfe)
  pump, buckets, web page ("Herb B Tuten")
  RE: ginger in beer ("Bridges, Scott")
  Re: Did I Accidently Make Bottle Bombs? ("bob rogers")
  California Common yeast in lagers (Charles Epp)
  High Point Brewery ((George De Piro))
  pre-prohibition lager (lheavner at tcmail.frco.com)
  Elementary Sparging Q ("Greg Carter")
  Glycerol in freezing yeast ("Jeffrey M. Kenton")
  Varying bitterness in a single batch ("Ken Rentz")
  pump wanted (greg at chtree.com)
  Trub-remove or not?? ("Tom L. Vitti")
  Aseptox - One Step - Sanitiser (Denis Barsalo)
  Why is there condensation in my Secondary Fermenter ? ((Raymond P Kasprowicz))
  English Strong Spice ale recipe (Edward J. Steinkamp)
  Bravo to AJ (Thomas Penn)
  Deschutes/bottle filling ("Ted Hull")
  sources for curacao orange peel ((Dan.Nelson))
  Water Quality Questions ("Bill Baker")
  Stainless in Seattle/temp control (rbarnes at sdccd.cc.ca.us)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bill-giffin at juno.com (Bill Giffin) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:31:53 cst Subject: Re: DO & equilibrium; O2 toxicity Good morning all, With all the discussions of O2 and such. I have a couple of questions. How much DO is required for a normal fermentation? At what point is the quantity of O2 detrimental to the beer flavor? Bill Return to table of contents
From: Dave Greenlee <daveg at mail.airmail.net> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:38:21 -0600 Subject: Dropped posts I've had two posts recently dropped. I received the "Your message has been received" acknowledgment, but my posts did not appear in the indicated issue. Is anyone else having this problem? Nazdrowie, Dave Greenlee The Vindicated Major Prendergast ******************************************************* * Major Prendergast's Double Bach Dubbel Doppelbock * * Extra Specially Bitter Bedlam Brewery, * * a Texas noncommercial Bozoid singularity * ******************************************************* Return to table of contents
From: "Craig Rode" <craig.rode at sdrc.com> Date: 12 Nov 1996 08:57:30 -0600 Subject: Specialty Malts in Mash? A couple of HBDs ago, someone asked whether it made sense to add specialty malts (eg, crystal, caravienne) to the mash. I hadn't thought of that, but since these malts are already converted to sugar, they probably don't do any good in the mash. The question is, do they do any harm? I typically start with 8-10 lbs pale malt, and then add 1-3 lbs of these malts, depending on style. I haven't seen a response to this post, and am wondering about the opinions of the collective. Craig Rode in Milwaukee Return to table of contents
From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:04:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: oxygenation/aeration mark bayer said: >so, really, the advantage of oxygen is that you don't have to roll the >oversize carboy around for 10 minutes. you're still looking at 8 or 9 ppm >if you give your wort a 1 minute blast and then don't do anything else. Yeah, but also I don't think that anything could live in nearly pure O2, so that it's a lot cleaner than aeration, especially in the warmer months/climes. - --Brian Pickerill, Muncie, IN Return to table of contents
From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:09:39 -0800 Subject: Weyerman Malts Hi! Somebody mentioned Weyerman malts in the last digest. I just thought that I'd mention that they have a really cool selection of interesting malts, some of which I recently acquired (but have not used yet). The list includes: Light & dark Munich, Dark Wheat, Cara-wheat, chocolate wheat, Cara-rye, chocolate rye, smoked malt, etc. Basically, anything you can thing of, and then some (remember my penchant for hyperbole...). I know you can get them from Hop, Skip, and a Brew in Queens, NY. He mail orders, too. Phone # is 718-821-6022. I have no commercial affiliation, but I am friends with the shop owner (no, I won't even get free stuff for this plug, I'm just sharing a good source of interesting malts). Return to table of contents
From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:39:47 -0800 Subject: RE: ESB troubles Hi all! Sorry, I forgot to sign my post about a source of Weyerman malts. Oops. There was a question about ESB in the last issue (sorry, I don't recall the name of the poster). He had a long list of possible causes for "that homebrew taste" in his ESB. The things that caught my eye were the complaints of thin body and solvent flavor. Thin body can come from too long a protein rest at too low a temperature. You need medium molecular weight proteins to give body to a beer, so you don't want to degrade them too much with a protein rest between 113-122F. Solvent flavors can come from too high a fermentation temperature. Excessive esters can also come from this. Wyeast 1028 is specifically mentioned as a potential problem. I have used this yeast many times. The only time it didn't perform well was when I under pitched and didn't aerate: more banana than a Weizen, and some harshness, too! The recipe seemed a bit odd for an ESB. When you say 2-row, do you mean pale ale malt, or pale (lager) malt? Try using pale ale malt and no protein rest. Pitch a lot of yeast and aerate well. Proper pitching and aeration will also help you achieve a lower final gravity. Remember that you want to have high levels of diacetyl in the final product (buttery aroma). Does anybody have good ideas on achieving this? Have fun! George De Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:03:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Problems with Mash Temp. Well, if I do the simple math, ignoring things like the fact that your cooler absorbs some heat, I get: (170*1* 9 + 212*1*1 + 9*.4*70) / (1*9 + 1*1 + .4*9) = 146 Assumptions: Specific heat of water is 1 Specific heat of grain is 0.4 Mash tun absorbs no heat. The first thing to note is that the predicted temperature is not 152. It takes a few minutes for the temperature to settle after mixing, as heat diffuses into the center of your grain chunks. The second thing is that the last assumption is clearly false. The mash tun will absorb heat from your strike water and will lower the achieved temperature. The math on your second addition: (138 * (10*1 + 9*0.4) + 212*1*4) / (10*1 + 9*0.4 + 1*4) = 154 Pretty close to what you got, again, ignoring heat absorbed by the tun. =Spencer Return to table of contents
From: Larry Johnson <Maltster at ix.netcom.com> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:07:38 -0800 Subject: Believe what you read? Tim Dugan writes in with a bit from his local paper: -- "It takes a while to get used to Guinness. This beer from an Irish = family of brewers is heavy and good in winter; but the first pint is the = hardest to get down. Stout is a heavy dark-brown beer, somewhat like = Guinness, but with less calories. Ale is a red beer, made from malt and = hops. Lager is a yellow regular beer that has been aged for several = months. Shandy is a mix of lemonade and beer and is popular in hot = weather." -- to which George de Piro responded thusly: I find this sad and disturbing, not humorous. Think about how many people read that and thought that they learned something about beer! People tend to believe what they read. The beer in this country (USA) would be a lot better, cheaper, and more diverse if people actually knew something about it. and then, my $.02: I agree, George, but it isn't just beer. It's very common (for me, anyway) to read some article, usually in a newspaper FWIW, that is written by someone totally ignorant of the subject matter and is poorly researched. The first is excusable, the second is not. We just saw the same principle at work in the recent Dateline "article" / A-B Infomercial on micro-breweries. Just think; how much of the rest of it (that we don't have intimate knowledge of) is total nonsense? Count on the news services to keep you informed and educated? Sure. Return to table of contents
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:12:04 -0500 Subject: Re: Chambord in beer Do it by taste. Pour a measured, small amount of the beer into a glass, then add the Chambord using a medicine dropper (or one of those syringes they sell for giving liquid drugs to babies). When you get a good tasting combo, you can scale up to whatever quantity you want to flavor. Thus: if you started with 4 oz of beer and added 10ml of Chambord to get the desired flavor, for a gallon you'd need 320ml of Chambord (4oz * 32 = 128 oz = 1 gallon, 10ml * 32 = 320ml). =Spencer Return to table of contents
From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:14:27 -0500 (EST) Subject: Weyermann Malz Bob asks about Weyermann malz: <The local (sort of) shop now has Weyermann beechwood smoked malt. The owner <is not sure how strong it is, since he just got it in and hasn't tried it <yet. He suggested 1 lb in a 5 gal batch to to start. < Has anyone tried this stuff? How smoky is it? Ive brewed with Weyermann smoked malz and it is not too overpowering. Beechwood smoked malt is much more mellow to work with than say Peat smoked malt. Ive made a pilot batch of Rauchbier using 94% Weyermann rauchmlaz as base. Not overpowering but readily evident smoke. <He has a bunch of other Weyermann malts too, such as the Munich malts and <some of the crystals. Anybody have experience with these malts? Victory Brewing uses these malts almost exclusively. I find them to be very comparable to the best German malts available, certainly in the same league as Durst. Weyermann provides a very extensive line of malts including caraWheat malts in both ligh and dark caraWheat. If you want a big malty Festbier then the Munich malt is a good choice with a decoction mash. HopDevil IPA gets a lot of its malt character from Weyermann Vienna malt. And St. Victorious Doppelbock was just brewed at Victory Brewing with loads of Munich malts. Try them out, they do make a distinctive more authentic (continental) product and are light years above the quality found in US domestic malts, specialty malts in particular. Buying better malt does make a better beer. Prost! Jim Busch See Victory Brewing at: http://www.victorybeer.com/ Return to table of contents
From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl at ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:10:47 -0600 (CST) Subject: "homebrew" taste Richard Walto writes: >Anyone who can help me has my indebtedness in excess. I am trying to >brew my favorite beer in the whole world. Fuller's ESB or Young's >Special London Ale are the best examples of what I'm after. > >My problem is this. I can't do it, not even close. ... > >The failing beers can probably be summed up as 'homebrew'. Do you > A friend of mine got rid of "that homebrew taste" by making a wort chiller instead of pouring hot wort into cold water. He attributed the taste to HSA. You've got a wort chiller, but maybe there's aeration at other parts of the process. ***** Does any of you gadget people use a motorized stirrer of either your mash or your wort during chilling? I'd like to mount something on a lid to stir the wort, but don't know where to get either the stirrer, the motor, or how to connect them. Suggestions? ***** BTW, thanks to all for your suggestions to my problem of an uninsulated sankey keg. I'll give them a shot. - Bryan grosbl at ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
From: Joe Rolfe <onbc at shore.net> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 12:41:44 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Beer color... i was just wondering how the samples should be judged for color? this, color standard, should have some basis to start from dfor instance: c'fuged or filtered to some level. this way haze and possible yeast in suspension would be removed. from my "bad eyesight" lots of either take the color down a notch or two, until it drops brite. there was a color chart/strip i saw in a mag of late, but did not seem to have many shades on it. any one using this as a cheap easy way? joe Return to table of contents
From: "Herb B Tuten" <herb at zeus.co.forsyth.nc.us> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:25:26 -0500 Subject: pump, buckets, web page Greetings all. Has anyone tried to use a drill-powered pump to transfer liquid from one container to another? I was in a hardware store yesterday and saw one for a few dollars. Probably not good for a thermodoohicky-controlled RIMS; but to move hot water from a kettle up to a sparge water cooler it would be cheap, quick, and easy. What do you think? Yeah, I tried to clean a pickle bucket or two before I saw the light. Buckets can found easily for free at most bakeries or doughnut shops. They get cream filling, fruit filling and stuff in 5 gallon buckets and are happy to give them away. They're food grade and with just a little cleaning they can be used for many brewery purposes, with no aftertastes. Our local club, the Winston-Salem Wort Hawgs, now has a web page. Please visit us at http://freenet.co.forsyth.nc.us/WSWH Herb herb at zeus.co.forsyth.nc.us Return to table of contents
From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess at mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 11:04:00 PST Subject: RE: ginger in beer >From: Skip Jonas <skip at eclipse.net> >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 18:43:30 -0500 (EST) >Subject: Ginger > >I would like to make a ginger-flavored holiday beer for a friend of mine. I >have never used fresh ginger (in beer) before and would like to hear about >any usage tips (amounts? in the boil? in the primary? in the secondary? >chopped? sliced? whole "plug"? etc.) or recipes (all grain or extract). TIA, > >Skip Skip, I've made a number of ginger beers, including a couple for holiday-type warming. In general, I use ginger and other spices as I would finishing hops. You may add some at 15 min before flame out, 0-5 min before flame out, or steeping at the end of the boil. As with hops, each addition results in different flavors/aromas. The later in the boil that you add them, the more aroma you get. For ginger specifically, I would use 1-2 oz if you want some but not too much ginger flavor, say, equal amounts split between 15 min and steeped. If you want more pronounced ginger flavor use 4 oz, split the same way. As a note of caution, ginger is a powerful spice. It can over whelm a beer. If you're not sure if you and your friend like ginger, I'd suggest starting out with less. Also, if you want the ginger to blend with other spices, like cinnamon, nutmeg, etc, use a lesser amount. I chop my ginger into little bits, you could probably grate it and get the same result. Scott Return to table of contents
From: "bob rogers" <bob at carol.net> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:25:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Did I Accidently Make Bottle Bombs? go with a modified 3. open one up after three or four days. if there's to much co2. then gently pry each cap to relieve the pressure and then use your capper to reseal them. Return to table of contents
From: Charles Epp <chuckepp at ukans.edu> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:45:42 -0600 Subject: California Common yeast in lagers I was intrigued by the recent discussion of brewing pseudo-lagers without traditional lager yeasts. I'm curious whether those who've done it think that a Munich Dunkel or doppelbock could be brewed successfully with one of the California Common (Steam) yeasts, like the Wyeast strain. That strain produces fairly malty beers, which seems appropriate. What do y'all think? Private email is fine. Chuck chuckepp at ukans.edu Return to table of contents
From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:09:03 -0800 Subject: High Point Brewery Hello all! I just wanted to let people know that a new brewery has just begun shipping product in the NJ area. The brewery is called "High Point Brewery" (although they're actually in Butler). They claim to be America's first exclusive German-style Wheat beer brewery. They make 2 beers, Ramstein Blonde and Dark. They are only available on tap in some NJ bars at the moment. The blonde is a good Weizen, with all the banana and clove you would expect. Not at all a bland American wheat! The dark is a more subdued in the ester and phenolic departments, and the roast malt is actually pretty up front in the flavor profile. An interesting interpretation of the style. They decoction mash and use open fermenters. The beer is definitely worth trying. As usual, I have absolutely no commercial interest in this. Just hoping that some people in Northern Jersey might get excited about a their new neighbor! Have fun! George De Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
From: lheavner at tcmail.frco.com Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:14:27 -0600 Subject: pre-prohibition lager Now that I have 2 lagers and an all-grainer under my belt, I'd like to try the pre-prohibition American lager that was discussed in HBD a while back. Unfortunately niether of the local homebrew suppliers carry 6-row malt. Can anybody suggest a source in central Texas or mail order. Also, Ulm yeast was suggested. Is there a source for it? Would one of the Wyeast varieties be appropriate as an alternative? Lou Heavner <lheavner at frmail.frco.com> Return to table of contents
From: "Greg Carter" <gcarter at mail.hq.faa.gov> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 12:51:13 EST Subject: Elementary Sparging Q O.K., brain lapse time, so I'll ask the collective oracle: With a 9 lbs. grain bill (for a 5 gallon recipe), mashed in 2 1/2 gallons water, and sparged with 4 gallons 170F water, why did I only get about 3 1/2 gallons in the primary fermenter (with no trub in the kettle)? Assuming a gallon boiled off, I can't fathom 2 gallons being held hostage in the grist, after a 45 minute sparge (with O.G. down to about 1.002 - I know, I know, don't go below 1.004, but there was this great article I was reading). One other thing (isn't there always?!); I mashed in the night before, and left it sit overnight in the insulated Gott cooler. Over 10 hours, it lost about 20 degrees. Any affect? Am I wrong to assume I can sparge any recipe to 6 gallons in the kettle (and therefore 5 gallons in the fermenter)? After adding water to go to 6 gallons, my O.G. was 1.048 (within range for an ESB (1.046-1.060). Any sparging help gratefully appreciated. TIA - Greg Carter P.S. to Terry Selba - What's IMBR? P.P.S. I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give the wrong answers.... Return to table of contents
From: "Jeffrey M. Kenton" <jkenton at iastate.edu> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:16:33 -0600 Subject: Glycerol in freezing yeast Having searched the archives of the HBD, I have seen multiple references to glycerol in the long term storage (read: freezing) of yeast. Is there a commercially available source of glycerol somewhere? Otherwise I have to go to the university's chem stores department and fill out paperwork till my skin falls off. Apparently purchasing chemicals is not an everyday thing there. Any help is appreciated Jeff Jeffrey M. Kenton finger for PGP public key ElEd/SecEd 301 Teaching Assistant N013 Lagomarcino Hall "Information comes, knowledge lingers" jkenton at iastate.edu - Alfred Lord Tennyson Return to table of contents
From: "Ken Rentz" <rentzk at wssi.com> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:53:26 -800 Subject: Varying bitterness in a single batch I just started sampling my first attempt at brewing (hopped extract with some additional hops at the end for aroma), and am fairly impressed with how it turned out. My wife and I have noticed however that the bitterness seems to vary quite noticeably between bottles. The beer was siphoned into a priming bucked and before bottling, and there doesn't seem to be any sediment other than that from the yeast, so I don't see how this could happen. The only thing that I've noticed is that the bitterness seems to be stronger in bottles that haven't been refrigerated for as long. Any idea what might be happening? - -- Ken Rentz Wise Software Solutions, Inc. CompuServe 74151,677 BBS (503) 526-0612 Mailto:rentzk at wssi.com FAX (503) 520-1759 http://www.gerbtool.com Phone (503) 626-7800 Return to table of contents
From: greg at chtree.com Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 16:44:33 -0800 Subject: pump wanted Hello All, I'm considering buying a pump to re-circulate mash runnings up to 170 deg, and to re-circ ice water during cooling. Any suggestions? Greg San Diego Return to table of contents
From: "Tom L. Vitti" <tvitti at ix.netcom.com> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 20:47:00 -0500 Subject: Trub-remove or not?? Hello Brewers!! Been lurking the list for a while-now I finally have a question! I am an extract brewer and my question is, should you or shouldn't you rack the wort off the hop pellet and/or spice-herb residue from the boil before primary ferm.? or should you just dump the whole lot into the primary and then when ferm. is over rack off into secondary leaving all the hop pellet and etc. behind. Sound confusing? Well I am Thanks to all in advance Return to table of contents
From: Denis Barsalo <denisb at cam.org> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 21:36:47 -0500 Subject: Aseptox - One Step - Sanitiser Hey gang, There's this stuff here called Aseptox. I think in the US it's called One-Step. Does anybody know how it works or what the chemical make up of this stuff is? H2O3 ??? The way I understand how it works, it's supose to sanitise as it releases oxygen. Sort of like peroxyde I guess. It comes as a white "crystal like" powder that I mix with water. No smell, no rinse. How can I *really* know it's working? Denis Return to table of contents
From: habanero at juno.com (Raymond P Kasprowicz) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 00:01:51 EST Subject: Why is there condensation in my Secondary Fermenter ? I have had my Oatmeal Stout in the Secondary now for little over a week and I have noticed that there is some condensation on the top of the carboy. I have the cap on tight and the airlock filled but it's still there. Is it from the lack of C02 after the primary ferment ? Is this anything I have to worry about ? In the future, what can I do to prevent it if needed. Thanks all. Return to table of contents
From: Edward J. Steinkamp <ejs0742 at dop.fse.ca.boeing.com> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:31:35 PST Subject: English Strong Spice ale recipe I am brewing the following English Strong Spice Ale on Thursday and would like to invite some comments on the recipe. Specifically, I would like comments on the spice schedule since I have not brewed a spice beer like this before. Private e-mail is fine. Thank you. Target Values: - ------------- O.G. 1.070 IBU 52 Color ~20 Quantity 5.5 us gal Assumed extr eff = 75% Grain Bill - ---------- 12 lbs 2-row pale (Gambrinus) 1/8 lb chocolate 1/8 lb roasted barley 1.5 lb munich (gambrinus) 1/2 lb victory 1/2 lb malted wheat 1/2 lb carapils Hop Schedule - ------------ 1.5 oz Chinook 60 min 1/2 oz Hallertauer 10 min 1/2 oz Hallertauer 1 min 1 tsp Irish moss for 15 min Mash - ---- Single step infusion mash at 153 F Yeast - ----- Wyeast London ESB #1968 Fermentation - ------------ Primary at 65 - 70 F Rouse after 3 days to prolong fermentation. Secondary at 50 - 55 F for two weeks. Spices added to secondary fermentation of 5 gallons: - ---------------------------------------------------- 1/2 oz. Ginger 9 inches of cinnamon stick 1 oz sweet orange peel 1/4 tsp Nutmeg 1/4 tsp Cloves Combine spices with boiling water and seep for 3 minutes. Add tea and bones to secondary. What do you think?? Thanks, Ed Steinkamp Return to table of contents
From: Thomas Penn <tjpenn at aol.com> Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:03:46 -0400 Subject: Bravo to AJ Thank you A.J. De Lange for an excellent experiment on O2 solubility. Your experiments provide credible, useable information that will improve all our beers. Thanks again. Tom Penn Bordentown, NJ Return to table of contents
From: "Ted Hull" <THull at brwncald.com> Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 2:22:23 EST Subject: Deschutes/bottle filling Question 1: Does anyone know how widely distributed Deschutes beer is? I have some friends who just visited Portland and loved it. Now they're hoping to find it somewhere in the Southeast. I tried to find the brewery online, but the only links were no longer good. Question 2: I just bottled a batch of beer using a Phil's Philler and felt like it injected a lot of air into the beer as I filled the bottles. Anyone else get this impression? I'd been using one of those plastic fillers w/ a spring loaded valve at the end, but it kept falling off and causing me extreme stress as beer suddenly flowed everywhere. I've already bought a new one, though. The Philler would explain why I got some oxidation comments on the last beer I entered in a competition. Thanks Ted Hull Atlanta, GA Return to table of contents
From: nelson at muck.isgs.uiuc.edu (Dan.Nelson) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:16:36 -0600 Subject: sources for curacao orange peel Hello Folks: Here's a list of sources for curacao orange peel. Thanks to everyone who replied to my question. Because I was in a hurry, I picked one semi-randomly (Frozen Wort, the first one to be recommended twice), so I don't have any comparative information to offer. Frozen Wort Greenfield MA 413-773-5920 Recommended by: bill-giffin, Geoffrey A. McNally, mg Homebrew Adventures Mooresville, NC 704.535.2277. Recommended by: Keith.Royster BREWFELLOW'S Buffalo, NY http://www.dnci.com/brewfellow $2.99 for a 4oz package Recommended by: Terry American Brewmaster 919-850-0095 $1.10 for a 2oz package Recommended by: Jon FH Steinbart Recommended by: kdash Hoppy Troll New York (Cooperstown?) 1-800-???-???? One oz (dry weight) about $1 Recommended by: Peter A. Ensminger Barlymalt & Vine 26 Elliot Street Newton, MA 617 630-1015 Recommended by: Dean_Goulding The Home Brewery Everett, WA (800) 850-BREW Recommended by: Itself Brewtopia Homebrew Supply 1-800-540-6258 http://www.negia.net/~brew Recommended by: Larry Johnson St Patricks's Austin, TX 512-832-9045 http://www.stpats.com 1oz - $1.75 Recommended by: D.Kovatch, Barry Wertheim, KJ Thanks again for all the replies, Dan Return to table of contents
From: "Bill Baker" <bbaker at mail.sunhealth.org> Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 07:30:46 PST Subject: Water Quality Questions To All, I have made the great leap forward and decided to go all grain. My question has to do with water quality. For my extract recipes I was buying r/o water; however, as I'd like to brew 10 gallon batches, I would perfer to use my own water. Here is a listing of inorganics in my water. Please email your responses to either my home email (wallyaz at tribeca.ios.com) or to my work (bbaker at mail.sunhealth.org) mg/L alkalinity 188. arsenic 0.008 barium <0.01 cadium <0.005 calcium 34. chloride 18. chromium 0.008 copper <0.01 flouride <0.4 hardness 163. iron <0.01 lead <0.005 magnesium 19. maganese <0.01 mercury <0.0002 nitrogen, nitrate 1.94 nitrogen, nitrate <0.01 (different test) pH 8.1 standard units selenium <0.005 silver <0.05 sodium 25. solids, dissolved 237. sulfate 10. zinc 0.03 Thanks, any insight is appreciated. Bill Baker Return to table of contents
From: rbarnes at sdccd.cc.ca.us Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 08:10:09 pst Subject: Stainless in Seattle/temp control A friend has offered to make me a temperature controller for my refrigerator. As I recall, someone has a schematic for a controller somewhere on the net. Anyone know where? (following was posted previously and showed up as "none") Is anyone using the "no weld" false bottom-drain or thermometer fittings from Stainless in Seattle? If so, how do you like them? Any leaks, advantages/disadvantages? What do these items cost? Thanks-Randy in San Diego Return to table of contents