HOMEBREW Digest #2338 Thu 06 February 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@ brew.oeonline.com
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Home malting, part 1 ("Gregory, Guy J.")
  Recipe for Strong Scotch Ale ("Michael R. Swan")
  Flood water analysis (smurman)
  "dropping" and British ales (Charles Epp)
  skunking and beer colour (Stephen Neate)
  Lactation and Stout/Allergy Observations/Al K. (Rob Moline)
  Thanks & a recipe ("Val J. Lipscomb")
  pH adjusting (Sisco, Jim )
  Filtering Flattus (Rick Olivo)
  Need some help making a light cherry beer ("Kenneth A. Lee")
  Re: Low gravity blues (grecar)
  New Mash Tun Questions (WalkerMik)
  [Fwd: reusing yeast--jim booth] (kathy)
  Re: Canning in beer bottles (Scott Murman)
  JS EM fix ("Mike Kidulich")
  Best temp for Cold Break? ([Michael Otten])
  Water Filtration/Water Analysis (UTC -05:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com>
  Oatmeal Stout (Carrick Legrismith)
  Mash/Lauter tun manifold ("R. Wayne McCorkle")
  re: lactic acid (Sharon/Dan Ritter)
  RE: Inverted Fermentation (Eric Peters)
  lack of carbonation (ELVIS942)
  Stones in my beer (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Brew Kettle Questions (Frosty)
  Re: Bulk Malt Extract (Jeff Smith)
  8th Annual Dredhop Homebrew Contest (John A. Carlson, Jr.)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 04 Feb 97 13:20:00 PST From: "Gregory, Guy J." <GGRE461 at ecy.wa.gov> Subject: Home malting, part 1 My brother-in-law grows barley, and I brew. I thought perhaps I should brew some beer from his barley, appropriately labeled, to help maintain my bird hunting rights on his land, and to provide all of us an idea of what is involved with malting. He graciously donated a 5 gallon bucket of barley for this task. It turns out that is about 45 lbs. The barley he grows generally goes for soup or other uses. I have no idea of initial protein or nitrogen content, figuring that in the old days, they didn t worry a lot about that. It is a 2-row barley, with nice plump equally sized grains similar in size to what I buy from my homebrew shop. I also have no idea of the initial moisture content, but it was in marketable and storable shape, so it must be pretty low. I weighed out 10 lbs on my bathroom scale. This I soaked in my old zapap lautertun in 65F water for about 38 hours. At that point, the grain weighed 14 lbs, for a 40% moisture weight gain. I built a screen frame out of 1 by 4 s to the interior dimensions of my oven, and covered the bottom with aluminum window screen. I placed the soaked grain in this frame and placed it on my floor in my basement (ambient temp 64F). I covered it with a towel so my geriatric cat wouldn t make an unfortunate mistake. Each day I would examine the grain, raking it with my hand, and turning it a bit. I rinsed it about every 48 hours or so by placing the frame over my brew sink and hosing off the grain with clear water. By the second day in the frame, little rootlets appeared. These things tend to bind the grains together into mats, easy enough to break up, but somewhat unexpected. The grain has a very distinctive odor, not dissimilar to wet grass, but very clean smelling. I began checking for the acrospire to grow. 5 days and 16 hours in the frames, I noticed the acrospire was done. It is a very green line on one side of an otherwise white, mealy appearing grain interior. It is thick near the base at the rootlets, but thins toward the top. Most folks say when the acrospire has grown to between 3/4 and the total length of the grain, it s ready for kilning. I tested 5 or 6 kernels, cutting the grain in half lenghtwise, and they all seemed about the same. I took the frame up to my oven. My wife was out of town, so this part was easy. I placed the frame inside the oven at 125F and left it for 30 hours. I would rake it occaisionally with my fingers, noticing how moist it felt. The smell was glorious, sort of like baking bread. I weighed it at 30 hours, or when it quit smelling really great in my house and the grain got dry to the touch, and the grain weighed 9 lbs. Accounting for loss, I should be dry, or a bit drier perhaps, then the original moisture content. Now, how to get rid of the rootlets....I put the new pale malt in my lautertun again, and began milling it between my hands. The little rootlets fall off, and out of the bottom of my lautertun, and all over the floor. Hooray, it s malt....now to grind it. I don't have a mill, as my homebrew shop grinds grain when I buy it really nicely. I decided a test mash was in order. I got 1 lb of my home malt, worked it over with a rolling pin for a while, and mashed. The rolling pin method didn't yield a really swell crush. My 1 qt water to 1 lb. mash seemed to use less grain than it does with commercial malt. I stepmashed on my stovetop in the same way as my regular beer, and sparged with 1 qt of water through a kitchen strainer for about 1.75 quarts of wort. My gravity was 1.010 for this batch. Anybody want to tell me what went wrong? Should I go for a kilning step? Is my crush that bad? Or maybe it's the variety? Will I bird hunt this fall? I appreciate your kind attention to this post. My plans are to kiln, crush better, and try again. I'll post the results. Cheers: Guy Gregory GuyG4 at aol.com Lightning Creek Home Brewing Sometimes I'm Sorry I Left Extracts Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 97 16:33:27 EST From: "Michael R. Swan" <mswan at fdic.gov> Subject: Recipe for Strong Scotch Ale Since someone asked that more recipes be posted, I thought I would share one of mine for a batch I made in December. Due to lack of equipment, I generally make 2 1/2 gallon batches. Basenji Strong Scotch Ale Category : Strong Scotch Ale Method : Full Mash Starting Gravity : 1.070 Ending Gravity : 1.010 Recipe Makes : 2.8 gallons Total Grain : 7.10 lbs. Color (srm) : 45.6 Hop IBUs : 18.5 Malts/Sugars: 5.00 lb. Pale Ale 0.50 lb. Crystal 20L 2.00 oz. Roast Barley 0.50 lb. Crystal 100L 0.55 lb. Brown Sugar Hops: 0.33 oz. Kent-Goldings hop pellets 7.0% 70 min Yeast: Wyeast #1969 in one quart starter which had been stepped up twice. Remarks: I was trying to clone McEwans Scotch Ale. All grains (except roast barley) were mashed for two hours at 154 degrees. I added the 2 oz. of roasted barley at mashout. After sparge, wound up with more than 4 gallons of wort. Specific gravity: apx. 1.060 for 4 gallons. The key to the taste of this beer is the carmelization of the first runnings. I caught the first quart of clear runnings in a pyrex measuring glass and microwaved them for 15 minutes along with a half pound of brown sugar. Boiled for 100 minutes, the last 70 minutes with the hops. This is not a bitter beer but has a great caramel flavor. After the boil, I had 3.5 gallons with a SG of 1.070. This was the second time I tried Wyeast #1969 yeast. The first time, the yeast floc'd out too fast. This time, I agitated the carboy every day to get the yeast back into circulation. It seemed to work since the final gravity was lower than expected. (1.010). Primed with 1/2 cup of corn sugar. The bottles carbonated within three weeks. The beer turned out tasting very similar to McEwans. I am not much on competitions, but would consider entering this beer. Mike Swan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 14:18:37 -0800 From: smurman at best.com Subject: Flood water analysis Does anyone living in Northern California have any idea what our water looks like these days, since we've had so much flooding? A friend of mine who has a big aquarium setup, said that he suspected that they had added a lot of chlorine to compensate. I'm planning on mashing some pale ale malt this weekend, and I'm not sure what water treatment to perform. SM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 16:52:45 -0600 From: Charles Epp <chuckepp at ukans.edu> Subject: "dropping" and British ales Some time ago, there was a brief discussion on this list about the practice of "dropping" British ales, as recommended by Wheeler and Protz. Dropping involves transferring the ale from primary to secondary after only about a day or two of active fermentation. In the transfer, the fermenting ale is dropped from the siphon from a height of several feet, in order to provide some aeration. The homebrewers who tried this said that it produced noticeably smoother, rounder beers, and also seemed to accentuate the hop character of the beers. My question is this: how do these beers fare over the long haul -- do they degrade more rapidly than non-dropped beers due to the infusion of oxygen? I guess another question is whether others of you have tried this -- if you have, how did you like the results, both short-term and long-term? Chuck Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 09:27:43 +1030 From: Stephen Neate <Stephen.Neate at adl.soils.csiro.au> Subject: skunking and beer colour If skunking is related to light and the reaction is inhibited by brown beer bottles, is the degree of skunking experienced by a beer exposed to the same light source dependant on the colour of the beer. What I am thinking is that should I bottle my brown ales, porters and stouts in the green bottles I have and my pilsners etc in brown bottles. Stephen Neate Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 17:02:40 -0600 From: Rob Moline <brewer at kansas.net> Subject: Lactation and Stout/Allergy Observations/Al K. >From: Tony Owens <ivy at fastlane.net> >Subject: Lactating mothers and stout! > the fact that doctors in the past would prescribe stout to lactating >mothers. He also went on to say that in England during WWII (I believe >is the war) all the stout in England was rationed for lactating mothers. >Is there any of you out there that can confirm this for me? If it is >true, what exactly assists in milk production of a lactating mother? >Dextrins? The stuff in stout that assists mothers breast feeding is simply the fact that stout is full of 'fuel.' "Beer is Food," and big beers like stouts simply have more 'food' than lesser beers. And the added benefit is that the 'medicine' is usually eagerly consumed! When I was training as a nurse in Gladesville in Sydney, and on 3 months specialty training at Sydney Hospital, it was not uncommon for the physicians to order Guinness for patients who were recovering from surgery, or who were mal-nourished. Usually ordered as "one bottle of Guinness with meals," the stout was ordered from the pharmacy, just like other drugs. Allergies.. FWIW, many patients who say they are allegic to certain drugs, are not clinically. Reports of the effects of consuming the allergic drug are often related as "felt nauseous;" these are side effects of the drug, not indications of allergic reaction, whereas skin eruptions, sweating, pallor, swelling of the airway and vascular changes are evidence of allergic reaction. The anaesthetist would note the patients statements, and then proceed to nuke them with similar drugs, and no reaction would occur. Recently, a customer complimented my rye beer, stating that he preferred it to my other beers; as he was allergic to wheat he had never tried my wheat ale. I didn't tell him that most of my beers use wheat as a 'head-grain,' and that my rye beer has more wheat in it than any other, including the wheat ale. He has been drinking these beers for over a year now. IMHO, and not to dispute anyones experiences with allergic situations, which can have life threatening outcomes, it is apparent to me that many 'allergies' are more psychological than physiological. Al K.... An under-valued asset, as far as I'm concerned. Jethro (Happy with a BW that's now down to 6.7 P and still going) Gump Rob Moline Little Apple Brewing Company, Manhattan, Kansas. "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 17:13:15 -0600 (CST) From: "Val J. Lipscomb" <valjay at NetXpress.com> Subject: Thanks & a recipe Just a short thank you to Dave B. and Harlan for the CO2 purging input and to Al K. for several assists and especially to Pat and Karl for the resurrection of the HBD. A week or so ago, I agreed with the idea of posting recipes and promised I would put my recipe where my mouth is. This is an exceptional American Pale Ale house beer (thanks to Allen Ford). I was a confirmed lager brewer 'til Allen brought this to a Bock'n'Ale-ians meeting a few years ago. The 13th batch is in primary now, I must like it. The combination of grains works best, but I've used all US, all Belgian and different percentages and it's always great. The mash temp is also flexible from 155 to 160. So, here it is: Just Beer for 5 gallons 4.5 Lb-US 2-row 4.5 Lb-Belgian Pale Ale (British works too) 0.5 Lb-Belgian Carapils Single Infusion mash at 158F for 75 Minutes (12 Qts water) Sparge with 175F water to yield 6.5 gallons to kettle 25 Gm-Kent Golding pellets(6.0% AAU) for 60 minutes 25 Gm-Mt Hood pellets(5.1% AAU) for 2 minutes 25 Gm-Mt Hood pellets-dry hopped in secondary 90 Minute boil Ferment with Wyeast 1056 OG: 1.055 FG: 1.013 IBU: 28 Color: 7 SRM Another thanks to Dion H. for the Red Ale recipe and this simple recipe format. "Try it, you'll like it", Val Lipscomb-brewing in San Antonio Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 17:45:29 -0800 From: jjsisco at plix.com (Sisco, Jim ) Subject: pH adjusting I'm looking for some practical advise for adjusting the pH of my sparge water. I'm a novice grain brewer and have done a few batches without adjusting the pH of my alkaline tap water. Results so far have been good, but I'm always working for a better ale. I've read about this in Papazian and Miller's books snd have searched some FAQs but have found some conflicting advice. What are you using to adjust the pH? What pH are you trying to reach? Would you recommend adjusting the pH of the mash water (my tap water pH is about 9)? If you use lactic acid or phosphoric acid where do you get it? Thanks, Jim jjsisco at plix.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Feb 1997 20:15:33 -0600 From: Rick Olivo <ashpress at win.bright.net> Subject: Filtering Flattus Spankster, regarding your HBD Post: I have what may be a stupid question, but here goes anyway. I have been extract brewing for close to two years now, with much of my product being consumed by me. I have never really had a problem with gas and bloating until my last two batches. It's really bad! I have tried the gas-x, etc., but find no relief. I have read that the yeast ferments substances in your bowels, thus causing the extra wind... A couple of observations. First, it is not the yeast that is causing your gaseous discomfort. What is happening is that certain, unfermentable sugars from your brew are getting into your digestive tract where they are not easily digestable. they go into your large intestine largely unchanged where they are acted upon by certain anerobeic bacteria that are fermenting it in much the same manner that yeast acts on the simple sugars of malt. The resuslts are uniformly unpleasent: large volumes of methane and carbon dioxide gas being mixed with ketone byproducts that give flattus that, ahhh... distinctive aroma that has driven your wife out of the bedroom. Unfortuantely, although nailing down the cause is fairly simple, the cure isn't. You say you have tried gas-x (simethecone) Have you tried bean-o (an enzyme compound that helps break down the complex long-chain sugars into simpler more digestible sugars)which often gives people who have similar problems with beans (for the same reason) considerable relief. Failing that, you might try activated charcoal tablets or capsules, which have a powerful ability to absorb noxious odors (but will likely do little to eliminate the gas problems itself). In my experience it is the potency of the odor and not the volume of the report that wives have the most problem with in any case. Another thing, You say that you first started having gas problems recently. Have you changed your recipie recently? Perhaps having additional malts with unfermentable sugars for "mouthfeel" may be at the root of your troubles. You might try making a beer, as an experiment, with a very high order of conversion to simple sugars, to see if that has any effect on your flattus and borbourigny. Best of luck, Rick Olivo aka STRANGE BREWER ashpress at win.bright "Vitae Sine Cervesae!" (Life without beer sucks!) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 20:59:25 -0700 From: "Kenneth A. Lee" <kenlee at ibm.net> Subject: Need some help making a light cherry beer I was given a recipe to make light cherry beer that said the following: - ----------------------------------------------------- Mix - premier super light malt extract Merlin Cherry Mix - 25 oz 1 pound of brown sugar 1 pound of malt extract - ----------------------------------------------------- Thats it.... Seems to be missing some things (like hops and type of yeast to use) and I don't want to spend money on quality ingredients for something that *might* taste good. I would like to make a beer that has the body of a bass ale with a hint of cherry flavor or something like that. I only have the equipment for extracts and a single carboy right now, so some help with a simple recipe would be greatly appreciated. I wouldn't mind more complex recipes either. I hope to learn enough to buy more equipment and try them sometime this summer! Thanks, Kenneth Lee kenlee at ibm.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 1997 23:40:24 -0500 From: grecar at pinn.net Subject: Re: Low gravity blues In reply to Ray Loves posting in HBD #2334 I have been experiencing the same problem lately. the last three batches, 2 of my own and one of a friend, had an original gravity of about one half of what was estimated. My last batch, 5 gallons, used 6.6 lb. of liquid malt extract, 1 lb. 2-row malt, 1/2 lb. Crystal 60 malt and 1/4 lb. Carapils malt. I was expecting an original gravity of about 1.053, but got a reading of 1.026. The other two batches had about the same results. The malt extract we are using all came from the same case of Northwest Gold that was mail ordered and shipped directly from Northwest as the mail order supplier was out of stock. Two of the batches are still in carboys and one batch was just bottled. Previous batches have not had this problem. Could it be a bad batch of extract, has anyone ever heard of this happening before? If so how can that be determined? I have used Northwest extracts previously without this problem. If the extract happened to have been frozen during shipping could this be the problem. We have used two different hydrometers and both gave the same readings. I look forward to reading any responses anyone may have concerning this. Greg Carroll Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 00:00:10 -0500 (EST) From: WalkerMik at aol.com Subject: New Mash Tun Questions Hello All, I am trying to decide on my next equipment upgrade and was wondering what other brewers use for mash/lauter tuns. I currently use a plastic pail and Phils Phalse Bottom and am not interested in a Gott cooler type of mash/lauter tun. I am thinking about converting a keg (Pico Brewing, Sabco, etc) or purchasing a 15 gal ss pot with ball valve and thermometer. Which do you recommend and why? Mike Walker Mesa, AZ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 00:49:50 -0500 From: kathy <kbooth at scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us> Subject: [Fwd: reusing yeast--jim booth] Message-ID: <32F81850.2A3C at scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us> Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 00:19:11 -0500 From: kathy <kbooth at scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us> Reply-To: kbooth at scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Macintosh; I; PPC) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: hbdsubmitt <homebrew at brew.oeonline.come> Subject: reusing yeast--jim booth Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm trying to remember the procedure to salvage yeast out of my secondary for reuse. It has been discussed several times in the past 6 mos on the HBD, but I don't know which volumes. I tried to search for the Brewery URL but couldn't get my engine to work. As I remembered: I boiled 3 qt jars 1/2 full of water and sealed and cooled. Used the 1st to wash the carboy back into the qt and let it stand 24hrs. Discarded the top h2o and swirled in the 2nd 1/2 qt and let stand 1 hr. Saved the top solution into the third jar for next batch. 9/10's of the slurry is left behind...is that right? Should the yeast be fed as it has been 6 weeks abrewing? Does anyone have a reference I should look up? Thanks and my compliments to the new HBD homeowners. jim booth, lansing, mi kbooth at waverly.k12.mi.us Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 00:06:28 -0800 From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Re: Canning in beer bottles On Mon, 3 Feb 1997 10:07:41 -0800 George De Piro wrote: > > CD Pritchard writes about canning wort in beer bottles. He was > wondering about the integrity of the cap liners after boiling. As > some of you have read in the past, I sterilize my chiller and save > sterile wort in beer bottles by running hot wort through my > counterflow chiller (with no water running through it!) at the end of > the boil. I then seal the bottles and lay them on their side, so as > to ensure that the entire interior is in contact with the 200+F wort. George and others, I think you may be taking deadly serious risks here. Canning or preserving safely is a combination of proper heat and proper pH. Foods which have a pH below around 4.6 can be canned using only a boiling water bath, but foods with a pH above 4.6 must be canned using a high pressure canner with about 10 lbs. of pressure. Almost all worts will have a pH of over 5.0, and hence should only be pressure canned. All canning jars should also have the proper seals, bottle caps are not sufficient. If you do not achieve a temperature of around 240F at sea level with low-acid foods, such as wort, you run the risk of "awakening" the botulism spores in your wort. Botulism is a very deadly nerve toxin which will kill you very dead, very quickly. If you don't have a pressure canner do not fuck around with home canning wort, it's not worth the risk. Just because you haven't had a problem so far is no guarantee that you won't on your next batch. SM Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 06:41:14 +0000 From: "Mike Kidulich" <mjkid at ix22.ix.netcom.com> Subject: JS EM fix From: Todd Bruce <tbruce at webbert.sdc.cio.eds.com> Subject: Easymasher quirks solved >>I've been using JM Easymasher(tm) in my mash tun for some time now and I'm very happy with its performance. I have experienced clear running wort with only 8oz of recirculation and have never had a stuck sparge. But.. like many before me, I was frustrated with the air bubbles forming in the hose because of the "ridge" on the tap. Also, I had a hard time adjusting the outflow especially when the tap was hot from heating. I've solved these quirks by replacing the tap with a 1/4" ball valve and a hose barb for about $10. Following is the materials list if your interested:<< I had similar problems, i.e., the air leaks and flow adjustment. I solved the air leak by filing off the ridge with the file on my trusty Swiss Army knife. Also, I alleviated the adjustment difficulty by using a small pair of Vice Grips to grip the handle. Gives much finer control of the flow, and is quick and easy. (Note: Do not leave the vice grips on the valve while boiling!) Mike Kidulich mjkid at ix.netcom.com mjk at rfc.comm.harris.com DNRC Minister of Home Brewing, Relaxation, and Really Cool Toys Holder of Previous Knowledge O- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 97 07:27:20 EST From: motten at fcmc.com ([Michael Otten]) Subject: Best temp for Cold Break? At what temperature "should" the wort be chilled down to to achieve the most efficient cold break? I have a 2 tier, 3 converted keg set up with an "in-line" counterflow chiller which works quite well. I was wondering if it would be worth it for me to chill the wort as much as possible to achieve as much cold break as possible, then run the wort back through the chiller (except this time the surrounding water will be from the hot water vessel) to bring the temp up to pitching temps. Has anyone done this? Is it worth it for me to make the changes? TIA Mike Otten motten at fcmc.com East Islip, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1997 08:02:08 EST From: "Rich Byrnes USAET(UTC -05:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com> Subject: Water Filtration/Water Analysis Jim McNealy Writes >I would like to have a setup that could attach to my kitchen faucet, >pass the water through a filter (i.e. inline ice maker filter), and on >to the fermenter. Does anyone have, or have seen, such a thing? Williams Brewing (800-759-6025 in CA) Carries some great hardware for doing what you want. #E65 Sink adapter - similar to the adapters you use for portable dishwashers #E66 snaps onto this adapter and has a 3/8" hose barb on a swivel, this is what you would use to attatch a hose to a water filter, runs around $19 #E91 Converts a garden hose to a snap lock fitting for this adapter Not affiliated with Williams, just a LONG time satisfied customer! Regards,_Rich Byrnes Jr Fermental Order of Renaissance Draughtsmen \\\|/// phone #(313)323-2613, fax #390-4520_______o000_(.) (.)_000o rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com (_) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 08:56:53 -0500 From: Carrick Legrismith <hiscope at c4systm.com> Subject: Oatmeal Stout Edwin K. Thompson asked: By the way does someone have a good, partial mash, recipe for an oatmeal stout... We Just finished a really good one which has roots in two commercial stouts, Mackeson and Samuel Smith's Oatmeal. Maybe it is a good time to start all-grain brewing. This is worth it, and simple to create. Brake-fast Stout Batch size: 12.0 Boil size: 14.5 Gallons Brewer: Poison Ivy Brewery Style: Sweet Stout Date Gravity/Plato Brewing: 01/12/97 1.060 14.7 Racking: 01/20/97 1.020 5.1 Bottling: 02/02/97 1.020 5.1 Alcohol: 4.2% (w/w) Alcohol: 5.3% (v/v) Ingredients: 2-row 18.0 pounds 1.054 S.G. 3.0 SRM 60 min mash Chocolate 2.0 pounds 1.000 S.G. 66.7 SRM 60 min mash Black Patent 0.5 pounds 1.000 S.G. 20.8 SRM 60 min mash Precooked Oats 2.0 pounds 1.006 S.G. 0.3 SRM 60 min mash Chinook 1.0 ounces 60 min 12.9 % AA 21.1 ibu leaf Lactose 1.0 Irish Moss 2.0 tsp Wyeast #1084 Irish Ale Water Treatment: Ions Boil Target Difference Ca 97 87 10 Na 15 15 0 Mg 9 5 4 Cl 23 24 -1 CO3 126 130 -4 SO4 68 72 -4 Salts used: Canning Salt 2.2 grams Epsom Salt 5.4 grams Chalk 12.0 grams Gypsum 3.2 grams Mash: Cook oatmeal. Start mash at 110f raise to 152f and hold 60 minutes or conversion. Mash out at 170f for ten minutes. My grain bill is based on a 92% extraction rate. Boil: 75 minutes Primary fermentation: Stainless Steel Secondary Fermentation: 6 Gallon Carboy 2x Primed with: 15lbs at 40f CO2 Changes next time: Cut lactose to .75 lb Carrick Legrismith Poison Ivy Brewery Clinton, Michigan "You'll be itching for another" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 07:46:44 -0700 (MST) From: "R. Wayne McCorkle" <wmccorkl at psl.nmsu.edu> Subject: Mash/Lauter tun manifold I have finally had the time to construct my mash/later tun. I am using a 48 quart Coleman cooler. The manifold is rectangular, with a pipe down the middle as well. I suppose an ASCII drawing might help ... +-------------------------------------+ | | | | +-------------------------------------+---- | | | | +-------------------------------------+ My question concerns the material. I went with 1/2" PVS pipe. In order to clean the exterior of the pipe (cleaning to get dirt as well as the blue lettering off), I used some cleaning solution I picked up at the hardware store. I told the guy this was going to be used in a food application, and he said that as long as I washed with soap and water afterward, it would be ok. The solution seems to be mostly alcohol, but has quite a powerful smell. The smell seems to have left the pipe. I am still concerned though, about having used this. Additionally, it did not quite get all the lettering off. Any comments about using or not using this manifold. Thanks, Wayne +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | R. Wayne McCorkle Voice: (505) 522-9236 | | New Mexico State University Fax: (505) 522-9389 | | Physical Science Laboratory Email: wmccorkl at psl.nmsu.edu | | Computation and Simulation Division URL: http://essex.nmsu.edu/~rmccorkl | +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 07:02:42 -0800 From: Sharon/Dan Ritter <ritter at camasnet.com> Subject: re: lactic acid >So I picked up some lactic to keep my sparge water at a reasonable pH. >The thing is, i don't know how much to use per x-amount of water. It all depends on the pH of your tap water. I use 1/2 teaspoon of 88% lactic acid to reduce 5 gallons of sparge water to a pH of 5.7. I determined this through trial and error - adding a little bit of lactic acid at a time while checking the pH. My tap water pH seems to vary slightly over the year so I don't just assume that 1/2 teaspoon is the right amount - I always check the pH. Dan Ritter <ritter at camasnet.com> Ritter's MAMMOTH Brewery Grangeville, Idaho Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 97 10:15:33 EST From: Eric Peters <epeters at rtp.semi.harris.com> Subject: RE: Inverted Fermentation >From: Ganister Fields Architects <gfarch at tiac.net> > >Stuart writes in HBD #2334 > ><In my quest to eliminate the secondary fermentation and cut down on >washing up and other labor I am going to try inverted fermentation. >Can anyone offer some advice? Pros and cons? > > >Save your time and money Stuart. A neat idea, especially for lagers but >the slope of the carboy shoulders is not great enough to purge off the >yeast. The whole setup is more trouble than it is worth. I know because I >tried it with limited success. The best thing that came out of my >investment is a spare racking tube and a nifty stand to dry my carboys. I've had four inverted fermenters in continuous use for over three years. My experience is the exact opposite of the Ganister and Fields architectural firm. My carboys rest on lazy-susan bearings, ~$2 at the local hdwr store. Wiggle the bearing, sediment slides into neck. That easy. So Stuart, YMMV. I'll be reverting to upright fermentation soon for twenty gallon batches, and I'll miss the inverted carboys. They've certainly made things easier. Eric Peters Durham, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 10:29:18 -0500 (EST) From: ELVIS942 at aol.com Subject: lack of carbonation I recently brewed a 5 gallon batch of a very tasty nut brown ale that was put into 4 1.3 gallon kegs and primed with corn sugar for carbonation. The first keg we tapped and drank out of was wonderful, the second keg was completely, and I do mean completely flat- no carbonation at all. Any ideas as to what happened? Any tips on getting that keg carbonated? I would hate to throw it out. I'm new at this so any tips would be much appreciated. Also, unrelated to the first question, I know that you should aerate the wort and pitch the yeast with lots of oxygen present, but I don't understand why when you prime and bottle that aeration is bad..... answers? Thanks- Matt Walsh e-mail: elvis942 at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 10:06:33 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: Stones in my beer From: "Nathan L. Kanous II" <nkanous at tir.com> ...The package recommends to avoid handling the stone with your hands because oils in the skin can actually clog the stone. How aboutlipids/break/yeast/etc. in my wort? Will this clog my stone forever once I retrieve it? Anybody else managed to do this?... How is it that bacteria can "hide in the scratches and avoid sanitation" when we are talking about plastic fermenters, but with airstones on the other hand we sometimes seem to be blindsighted to the same issue? Am I missing something here? Is this a case see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil? C'mon 'big heads' - what gives? Enlighten us please. Happy Brewing Ron Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 10:59:00 -0600 (CST) From: Frosty <frosty at cstar.ac.com> Subject: Brew Kettle Questions Hello Fellow Brewers! I am looking for a new brew pot. I have a SS 5 gallon pot now for my extract batches and an 8 gallon enamal on steel (blackish with white speckles). I want to get a new 8-10 gallon SS pot but I have a few questions: 1) How much. I read about some on the hoptech homepage. They had a Vollrath 38.5 qt (9.6 gal) for $170. This is kind of expensive, but I do want quality. This will last a long time. (well, it should). Any other suggestions? 2) Can I heat this new pot (whatever it is) on the stove. I have a standard gas stove? I do not want to but a propage "burner" just to heat this sucker unless I have to. 3) How easy is it to convert this to the easymash system. I have been reading the threads about drilling stainless, and it doesn't seem to hard...*swallow* It will be scary if I pay > $150 for a brewpot. 4) Do you ever take out the easymasher. Is is now a permenant part of your brewpot? What if you want to go back and do a quickie extract batch? Does it just sit in there doing no harm? 5) Is the easymasher hard to clean. 6) What about hops. Do they get stuck down there? Pellets? Whew! That is a mouthfull. Any help you give would be greatly appreciated. Hoppy Brewing, Frosty Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 11:26:33 -0600 (CST) From: snsi at win.bright.net (Jeff Smith) Subject: Re: Bulk Malt Extract Howdy HBDers, Richard D. Cuff wrote regarding the Malt Products Corp: First let me say that this looks more like an AD than a post. In the post Richard goes on to say: >The message thread back in November mentioned there were no issues >regarding storage; some suggested spraying vodka on the surface of the >extract as a precaution. General opinion was that concentrated extract >was inhospitable to bacteria. Bad news here. I have seen yeast (read this to be yeast or bacteria, I didn't test it) grow in malt extract. Over two years ago I split a "case" of malt extract from James Page in the Twin Cities with my bother in law. With a week a got a call from my bother in law asking if my bags of malt were swelling up and that his had blown up like a balloon. As of that day they had not but they had developed a white froth on them. By the next time I brewed the packs had swollen and when opened it had a sickening yeasty smell. Though the LME did have a slight "stale/old" flavor it wasn't strong enough to come through in a dark beer, which is what I started making. Two other thing if you brew a batch of beer once a month and use 6lbs in it that last batch of LME will be 10 months old and could be stale. I also know two people how have bought 60lb buckets of LME only to open them up one day to find mold growing on it. I do know people how have bought 60lb buckets and had no problems. I just want to point out that this is not problem free. Think carefully before spending $65 plus shipping. PS "spraying vodka on the surface of the extract as a precaution" won't do much but make you feel better. PPS If this is an AD it has on business on the HBD. Jeff Smith | '71 HD Sprint 350SX, Temp '77 GS 400 X snsi at win.bright.net | Barnes, WI I am so pleased that the mead is brewed!-Jane Austen Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 10:28:47 -0700 (MST) From: jac at access.usa.net (John A. Carlson, Jr.) Subject: 8th Annual Dredhop Homebrew Contest 8th Annual Reggale & Dredhop Homebrew Competition Hop Barley & The Alers invites you to enter the 8th Annual Reggale & Dredhop Homebrew Competition. We will accept all homebrewed beer and mead. This competition is AHA sanctioned and will have twelve categories. Medals will be awarded to 1st place entries in each Category. Ribbons will be awarded to 2nd and 3rd place in each Category. Ribbons for Best of Show in Beer and Mead will be awarded. Prizes will also be awarded. The first place winner in the Brown Ale Category will be selected to work with the Brewers at the One Keg Brew House to scale up their recipe and brew it! The beer will be sold to Old Chicago's. Check out more details about the Dredhop on the web at: http://members.aol.com/hopbarley/index.html or contact Bob Kauffman at 303-828-1237 Rules & Regulations Eligibility All entries should be handcrafted products, containing ingredients available to the general public. Categories Each beer will be judged according to the 1997 AHA national homebrew competition classification it is entered under. Beers of similar styles will be grouped together to allow for manageable judging sessions and reasonable competition. First place winners in each Category will be judged in a final round to determine the Best of Show beer and Best of Show mead. An entry shall consist of two bottles, 10 - 22 ounce, clean of all paper or printed or enameled labels, label adhesive, misc. debris, raised designs or brand names, or any other distinguishing features. Clear glass, wire swing-top (Gr=F6lsh) type, corked, and oversized (22 oz, champagne) are acceptable. Printed crown caps are acceptable but must be blacked out completely with black marker to assure anonymity. Bottles will not be returned to entrants. Paperwork Each bottle shall have an bottle ID form attached with a rubber band. Glue or tape are unacceptable. A single recipe form must accompany each entry (one recipe form per 2 bottles, one bottle ID form per bottle). Enter your beer according to the 1997 AHA national homebrew competition styles -- a chart of these classifications is attached. Please fill out the entry forms completely. Be meticulous about noting special ingredients you want brought to the judges attention when entering categories 3c, 20b, 20c, 21, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27. Limitations Brewers are limited to one entry per AHA subcategory. Entry Fees An entry fee of $4 per entry will be collected on the first two entries (1&2). Additional entries (3 thru ?) will be $3 per entry. Attach it to the Entry and Recipe form. Make checks payable to: Hop Barley & the Alers. PLEASE INCLUDE ONE SELF ADDRESSED STAMPED BUSINESS SIZE ENVELOPE =46OR EACH ENTRY SUBMITTED. The Fine Print Disqualified beers may be judged but will not be eligible for awards. The judges may decide to not award all places in any Category. The decision of the judges is final. The Best Brown Ale winner must be available to work with the One Keg Brew House (i.e. live in Colorado). Where To Enter Entries are to arrive between Friday February 14, 1997 and 5:00 p.m. Friday =46ebruary 21, 1997. Late entries will neither be returned nor judged. To minimize the impact on the businesses accepting entries please have a check or the exact change attached to your recipe forms. What's Brewing - Boulder What's Brewing - Longmont (use this site if mailing in your entry) 1011 Main Street 2886 Bluff Street Longmont, CO 80501 Bolder, CO 80301 (303) 772-8363 (303) 444-9433 Wine & Hop Shop HomeBrew Hut Brew Ha Ha 705 E. 6th Ave. 555 Hwy. 287 Unit I 708 8th Street Denver, CO 80203 Broomfield, CO 80020 Greely, CO 80631 (303) 831-7229 (303) 460-1776 (970) 356-1566 Judging The judging will take place from 9:00 am - 5:00 p.m. on Saturday, March 1, 1997 at the Old Chicago restaurant in Boulder. The Best Brown Ale will be brewed at the One Keg Brew House Brewpub to be sold at Old Chicago's throughout the Front Range. Judging information has been sent to area BJCP judges. If you are not a registered BJCP judge, and would like to judge at the competition please contact John Carlson at jac at usa.net. Stewards and apprentice judges are always welcome. Awards Ceremony & Celebration An awards ceremony will start around 6:00 p.m. on Saturday March 1 at the Boulder Old Chicago. Please attend! Medals, Ribbons and prizes will be handed out. Food and beer will be available. Return to table of contents