HOMEBREW Digest #236 Thu 24 August 1989

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Chlorine and such. (Patrick Garvin)
  Brewing/Brewpub Magazines (Mike Fertsch)
  programmable thermostat update (Pete Soper)
  Saccharin  (Brian Capouch)
  root beer question (florianb)
  More on specific gravity (Doug Roberts)
  Specific Gravity Different (Doug Roberts)
  Re: Chlorine (Dr. T. Andrews)

---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 22 Aug 89 19:29 CDT From: "What do you mean, what flavor is it? It's a bloody albatross!" Subject: Chlorine and such. "Allen J. Hainer" <ajhainer at violet.waterloo.edu> writes: >Everything started out great, but after a day and a half of fermentation, >everything stopped. ... >My guess (although not very scientific since correlation does not necessarily >imply causation) is that chlorine inhibits normal fermentation so that >infections get a chance to take hold. Let me relate a similar experience. I made my first batch of beer a couple of months ago (a sweet stout, Cushlamachree Stout according to Papiazan), and bottled after about ten days (we had 90+ temperatures in Norman). Since some of the beer bottles I had gotten from the "O'Connell's Irish Pub and Grill" had various and sundry kinds of mold growing in them, I used a rather strong chlorine solution to rinse them and let them drip dry. The result was bottles that were undercarbonated (I didn't mix my priming sugar uniformly, so the bottles did not age uniformly). I tend to think that excessive chlorine tends to inhibit yeast activity. I think Papiazan says that yeast activity changes the PH or otherwise makes other things like mold and bacteria a bit unwelcome. So, in the absence of a healthy yeast culture, trace contaminants could conceivably have a free rei(g)n. >According to previous discussions, it appears that ~1/2 tsp/5 gallons is >sufficient. I'll be sure to remember that in future. >your tap water, a very dulute chlorine bleach solution can be used instead >for rinsing. How "very dilute"? >BTW, I have since discovered that Labatt's (a two minite walk from were I live) One reason to buy Labatt's when you are out of homebrew, I suppose. 8) "Doug Roberts" roberts%studguppy at LANL.GOV writes: >a sample for SG. I wrote a little program for my HP-45 that takes the >SG & temperature readings, and spits out the SG corrected for 60 >Fahrenheit. What is the SG function with respect to temperature? Could divulge your formula? Patrick T. Garvin ptgarvin at aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu / ptgarvin at uokmax.UUCP Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 89 08:46 EDT From: Mike Fertsch <FERTSCH at adc1.RAY.COM> Subject: Brewing/Brewpub Magazines > An acquaintance mentioned that he had seen a magazine devoted to brewpubs > and microbreweries with the title something roughly like _Microbrewing_. > If anyone is familiar with this magazine, and has contact information, > I, and I am certain that others, would appreciate your sharing it with > us. Perhaps you are thinking of _American_Brewer_ magazine. Their byline claims to be "The Micro-brewer and Brerwpub Magazine". It comes out quarterly. Subscription price is $13.50 per year. I highly recommend it. The recent copy has articles on - - Gordon Biersch brewery (Palo Alto, CA) - Food and Beer - Yeast cultulring in commercial breweries - Draft beer markets - DMS (dimethyl sulfide) - Belgian brewpubs - Regulations concerning brewpubs - Microbrewery listings (new openings!) Their address - American Brewer 1082 B Street Hayward, CA 94541 The Association of Brewers, publisher of Zymurgy, has a journal for microbrewers. I saw a copy only once, and it looked quite good. I forgot the title (Practical Brewer???) , but I remember it costs around $50 per year. I think this is pricey, but can anyone provide details? Mike Fertsch Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 89 10:46:32 EDT From: Pete Soper <soper at maxzilla.encore.com> Subject: programmable thermostat update On June 28 Erik Henchal wrote about the "Hunter Energy Monitor AC" model 42205 thermostat for room air conditioners and its use with a refrigerator. I got one of these after reading his posting and am very very pleased with it. I just have a couple of details to add about performance. The unit I have hunts around the setpoint by a degree or so and the indicated temperature is 2-3 degrees low. The setpoint range is 40-90, not 30-85. Finally, I wish the thermistor cord was five feet long instead of four to reach further into the fridge. But these are of course all just nits. The basic operation is fantastic and I'm done with wet towels and fans forever. Getting "process control" for under $50 is a real hoot. Thanks for the tip, Erik! Pete Soper Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 89 11:51:10 -0500 (CDT) From: Brian Capouch <brianc at zeta.saintjoe.EDU> Subject: Saccharin I have just finished an argument with some friends of mine about Dave Line's books, both of which include saccharin tablets in various ingredient lists. I contend that there's no way he would mean what we call saccharin, since I seem to remember somewhere an anti-artificial sweeteners rap in the Big Book. One of my friends, who is English, insists that the term means the same thing there it does here. I would assume this has probably come up before. What goes? Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Aug 89 12:25:02 PDT (Wed) From: florianb at tekred.cna.tek.com Subject: root beer question In the brewing of root beer and other soda beverages, it is my understanding that the yeast ceases fermentation when the nutrients run out. This is why the finished drink is sweet with residual sugar. Recently, I read in the William's catalog that one can use two doses of the extract in the same batch of soda, providing a zippier drink. Is this practice in danger of overcarbonation and hence bottle breakage? I asked the question to someone at Steinbart's yesterday, but he was unable to answer it. Has anyone tried this technique, and if so, does it lead to overcarbonation? Thanks, [Florian Bell, Boonesborough, Oregon] Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 89 21:28:35 MDT From: roberts%studguppy at LANL.GOV (Doug Roberts at Los Alamos National Laboratory) Subject: More on specific gravity Someone requested that I post information on the linear relationship between wort specific gravity & temperature, so here it is: [T(F) X 1.449E-4 - 0.009] + S.G.(uncorrected) = S.G., corrected to 60(F) Also, the relationship between potential alcohol content is linear with respect to S.G.: S.G.(corrected) X 137.363 - 137.369 = Potential Alcohol(percent) These equations can easily be derived (as I did) by interpolating the SG & alcohol scales found in many beer texts. I got my data out of _Practical Beer Making_ by Jim Weathers. --Doug Douglas Roberts Los Alamos National Laboratory Box 1663, MS F-602 Los Alamos, New Mexico 87545 (505)667-4569 dzzr at lanl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 89 21:39:28 MDT From: roberts%studguppy at LANL.GOV (Doug Roberts at Los Alamos National Laboratory) Subject: Specific Gravity Different > I have a question of my own for you folks: are most of you using chlorine to > sanitize your fermenters/carboys/bottles? I have recently had a couple of > batches become infected, even though those same containers are actually being > treated a lot more carefully now than they had been earlier in my brewing > career. I use a hot water rinse, followed by a dilute bleach-in-water > solution. I don't know what I need to correct, but brewing's too much work to > waste a whole batch and all those hours. > I also have experienced contamination problems back when I was using chlorox solution to sterilize my equipment. I switched to sodium bisulfite, and haven't had a problem since. Here's what I do: Mix 4 oz of sodium bisulfate into a non-metal quart bottle. Seal the lid tightly and store in the refigerator. This is a concentrate. To sterilize your beer making equipment, mix one part concentrate with three parts water and rinse your stuff with it. It doesn't keep, so throw the unused portion away. I've seen recommendations to let the equipment air dry after rinsing with the bisulfite, but I never felt comfortable knowing that a film of yeast-killing chemical remained where it could hurt a batch. Instead, I rinse everything (primary, secondary, siphon, etc.) with _hot_ water just prior to using. Works like a charm for me. --Doug Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 89 6:39:33 EDT From: Dr. T. Andrews <ki4pv!tanner at uunet.UU.NET> Subject: Re: Chlorine I personally don't like chlorine in the water. I use bleach to sanitize, but then rinse with well water. In many areas (this one, for instance), the city water contains far too much chlorine. It is probably best, if you get any of it on you, to wash it off immediately. I suspect that this stuff, if used un-treated to top off a batch of beer, would be bad: it might kill the yeast, and it would surely slow them. People who are on city water are advised, therefore, to find a source of well water. (Mine's hard, with just a hint of sulphur, but it's great for making beer.) If you have an artesian well near-by, use its water. If not, visit a friend who lives out in the country and carry home a few gallons (make sure he's not on a water co-op of course). If you really want to ruin your beer, though, stop by the office and I'll supply you with DeLand city water. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #236, 08/24/89
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