HOMEBREW Digest #2373 Thu 13 March 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@ brew.oeonline.com
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  RE: Digging Rhizomes (erikvan)
  re: Brewing music ("Ted Major")
  decoction at mashout (Tim Martin)
  Sparge/Mash and Mash/Kettle interfaces... (Dave Riedel)
  Dropping yet again (Michael Newman)
  The Beer Recipator (Mark Riley)
  Where to purchase hops?? (Steve)
  Immersion Chiller Experiment (Jim Bentson)
  Fw: German pilsen malt (Ron Karwoski)
  Late-Nite Pubs in Silicon Valley ("Penn, Thomas")
  A more efficient brew day (Art Steinmetz)
  Wheats of All Kinds (Ken Blair)
  Kustom Keg Kooler ("Penn, Thomas")
  Custom Keg refridgeration ("Mack Huntress")
  Kegging - foamy beer (Ian Smith)
  re: pH meter haywire (Dave Whitman)
  Charbrau (Bob McCowan)
  Haywire pH/Starters (A. J. deLange)
  Brew-Tunes ("Karl F. Lutzen")
  AOB/AHA complaints (joe-sysop)
  Re: Wyeast 1275 (Thames Valley) (David Hammond)
  contest announcement (Btalk)
  re:Yeast Starter Tasting ("Sornborger, Nathan")
  RE: brewing music..../Scottish/PLAID REVISITED!!! (Scott Abene)
  RE: Conditioning in secondary vs bottle/keg (Brian Pickerill)
  Re: Wyeast 1275 (Thames Valley)/ 1318 London Ale III (Scott Abene)
  Stuck EZMasher (tm) and Slo ("Craig Rode")
  It's Spring!!! ("Bridges, Scott")
  Re: Liquid Transfer using Peristaltic Pumps ("Kim Lux")
  Fermentation, ("David R. Burley")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:42:51 -0600 (CST) From: erikvan at ix.netcom.com Subject: RE: Digging Rhizomes Marty Tippin wrote in HBD 2371 - >Just wondering whether this is the appropriate time of the year to dig up >rhizomes from my hop plants - a fellow brewer is concerned that doing it >now will disturb the hill and affect growth this year; he would prefer to >dig them up in the fall but doesn't know whether it makes a difference or >not when you do the digging. I'm guessing that the rhizomes you'll be able >to buy in a few weeks are being dug up right now (as opposed to being >stored all winter long) so my gut feeling is that now is the right time. >Anyone know for sure? You are correct, now is the right time to dig them up. Depending on where you live, but as soon as the ground becomes workable, in the spring, dig the rhizomes up and cut them into smaller pieces. So yes, wait until spring or now, to do it. You can expect 75 percent of healthy cuttings to take root, according to the author of 10 Tips for Hops Growers, BYO March 1997. But you probably want to do it before growth appears. My plants have about 5 inch vines on them, I fear digging now would damage growth, so I'll wait until next year about Feb.( I live in San Diego, CA), to split rhizomes. Once in the ground, water well and fertilize with manure, and you'll have great hops. Good luck with your hops, Erik Vanthilt The Virtual Brewery Http://www.netcom.com/~erikvan/brewery.html Recipes, hints, news, monthly newsletter, and more... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 14:39:18 -0400 From: "Ted Major"<tmajor at exrhub.exr.com> Subject: re: Brewing music I recommend Traffic's "John Barleycorn Must Die" (esp. for old-fashioned English-style ales and braggots), and while they're not exactly about home brewing, Flatt & Scruggs' "Drinking the Mash and Talking that Trash" and "Dooley" by the Dillards (aka the Darling Family of Andy Griffith fame): Dooley was a good old boy, he lived below the mill/ Dooley had two daughters and a forty-gallon still/ One girl watched the boiler, the other watched the spout/ and Mama corked the bottles when old Dooley fetched them out. Ted Major, Athens, GA tmajor at exr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 16:41:01 -0500 From: Tim Martin <TimM at southwest.cc.nc.us> Subject: decoction at mashout Hey neighbors, I got to thinking last night while reading some old archives about decoctions that maybe I could do a quasi-decoction at mashout. I currently don't do a mashout using my Gott cooler, in fact I have given up after several feeble attempts. In addition, I have never done a decoction but I thought this might be a simple evolutionary step. I'm thinking of removing a third of the grains with a strainer (after completion of mash) and transferring it to another kettle, adding water to prevent scorching and boil for say 15 minutes and then return to the mash tun for mashout. I guess I could pull grains and sweet wort to boil since I am done with the enzymes anyway. Do any of you decocers (new word) think I will enhance my beer with this procedure or just waste my time and propane and ruin my beer. I'm more concerned about flavor enhancement then reaching mashout temperature. TIA Tim Martin Cullowhee, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 16:11:01 -0800 (PST) From: Dave Riedel <RIEDEL at ios.bc.ca> Subject: Sparge/Mash and Mash/Kettle interfaces... Recently, my attempts to find silicone tubing (good to *well* over 200F) revealed a 50 foot minimum order requirement... needless to say, I'm looking at alternatives. I wanted to use the tubing to 1. Connect my sparge water tank to my sprinkling attachment 2. Move the run-off point closer to the bottom of the kettle to minimize HSA due to splashing and 3. Connect my kettle to my CF chiller while 4. Maintaining the convenience of flexability between tuns (converted kegs). I think a hard connection to the chiller won't be unmanagable, but what about the mash tank outlet? Do most people just let the hot wort drop 2-3 feet to the kettle bottom? As for the sparge water sprinkler... can regular tubing handle 170F water without collapsing? Any ideas out there? Dave Riedel Victoria, BC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 17:55:52 -0500 From: Michael Newman <MWNewman at compuserve.com> Subject: Dropping yet again Ray Estrella comments on "dropping" that: >By the time that the yeast is actively fermenting it is a little late to pull it off the trub. If it is a good strong fermentation, it is going to be kicking up all that stuff at the bottom of your fermenter. You would be better off transferring right at the end of the yeast's aerobic stage, what we call the lag period, before the krausen.< The point of dropping is to separate the fermenting wort from both the trub that remains at the bottom of the fermenter (and in my open fermenters MOST of it stays put there) and the cruddy early yeast crop which is contaminated with all sorts of rubbish including variable quantities of trub. The amount of trub finding its way to the crop depends on the yeast strain. If you want to see this phenomenon in action try using yeast raised from a bottle of Cooper Sparkling Ale. The wort has to be racked off above the trub and the flow stopped before the yeast crop is drawn into the outflow. It is a matter of debate whether the wort should be removed from the trub (mainly cold break) before the start of fermentation or at a point early in the fermentation (because the yeast thinks the free amino nitrogen in the trub yummy isn't it?). Michael Newman MWNewman at compuserve.Com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MWNewman Beer isn't the only thing in life; it's much more important than that. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 17:14:49 -0800 From: Mark Riley <mriley at netcom.com> Subject: The Beer Recipator Hello HBD, I'd like to make a brief announcement about a new Internet resource for homebrewers. The Beer Recipator is an online recipe formulator that uses your web browser as the front end for creating recipes. Once you've finished a recipe, it will generate a report (in HTML) that you can save to local disk or upload to your personal web pages. You will find more information at the following URL: http://alpha.rollanet.org/recipator I'd like to thank Karl Lutzen of The Brewery for graciously providing server space so that this resource could be made available to the online homebrewing community. Cheers, Mark Riley Sacramento, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 20:59:04 -0600 From: Steve <srockey at egyptian.net> Subject: Where to purchase hops?? Hello, I am considering growing some hop plants this Spring, and I was = wondering if anyone knows of any suppliers for the rhizomes? I have = only been able to find the people at "Freshops." =20 Also, has anyone had better luck growing one variety over another? = Suggestions? Thanks, Steve Rockey Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 21:55:56 -0500 From: Jim Bentson <jbentson at htp.net> Subject: Immersion Chiller Experiment To the collective: A few months ago, we had a running thread going on about using immersion chillers. At that time I was advocating slowly moving the immersion chiller in an up and down motion to increase mixing via vortex shedding from the coils. Since this was mainly hypothetical, I started to take some data that might be of interest. The data is the average over four batches of beer. In the first three batches I only used the slow up and down motion that I had recommended. In the fourth batch, following some of the ideas from the aeration thread, I started with my recommended slow motion but after the wort reached 85 deg F, changed to a large, rapid large vertical motion to promote aeration. In all four batches the inlet water to the chiller was about 46 deg F. The flow rate (estimated) was typically about 1/2 to 1 gpm. For all 4 batches, I found that after the first 5 minutes of cooling, the discharge water was exiting at a significantly lower temperature than initially. At this point, by moving the chiller vertically for about 4 up and down cycles in about 10 sec, the discharge temperature became significantly hotter. Typical numbers are 83 degs F discharge temp. before motion and 108 degs after motion of the coil. In practical terms, the first case had a cooling water temp. change of 37 deg F (inlet to outlet) while the second case had a 62 deg change. For the given flow rate this is a 67% higher cooling rate. This cycle has to be repeated every few minutes to maintain the effect. It is easy to implement as I just feel the outlet hose (carefully at the beginning as it can be very hot!!). As the hose starts to feel cool, I oscillate the coil and immediately feel a temp. increase With the fourth batch (using the larger aerating motion at the end), the fermentation activity started significantly faster (4 hours to bubbling vs. about 8 to 10 for the other batches). In some respects this is a purely speculative observation since the yeast strain and beer type were different in each batch. All batches used Wyeast built up to 3 pints of starter. While I realize that many in the group will disagree with what I did in this last batch (worrying about contamination) , so far I can't detect any off flavors in this beer. My personal feeling is that the chiller coils are entraining the air into the liquid as they leave and enter the liquid surface and that there are no large convective air currents set up in air space in the pot. It is these currents which would cause the mixing of room air into the air space at the top of the pot and thus would increase the risk of contamination. If you are worried, you can hold the top partially over the pot as you "aerate". This is equivalent to pitching in the fermenter head space but much more effective. Hope this helps some without disturbing the brew gods. Regards Jim Bentson, Centerport (L.I.) N.Y. - -- Registered ICC User check out http://www.usefulware.com/~jfoltz Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 18:03:02 -0900 From: Ron Karwoski <brewski at micronet.net> Subject: Fw: German pilsen malt I tried to post this to rec.crafts.brewing but for some reason nothing I post shows up in the newsgroup. I would appreciate any input from the wise and wonderful brew crew that would help me avoid another wasted brew day. I only have time to brew once a week. > Has anyone any information on the German Pilsen style malt? > I tried it for the first time today and was unable to get it to convert. > > Normaly I brew with a base of two row and some other grain for flavor and > body but this time I wanted to brew an authentic German style lager and one > of the guys at the brew shop suggested I try this malt. > After 4-5 hours of babysitting this mash I decided that it wasn't going > to happen and drained the mash tun. Tommorrow I plan to get a new batch of > grain and try again this time with at least 50% six row to be sure I have > enough enzimes to achieve conversion. > > Am I right in assuming that this style malt can't be used alone, or am I > missing something? > > TIA > Ron > -- > Real E-mail is: > brewski at micronet.net Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Mar 1997 22:22:31 -0400 From: "Penn, Thomas" <penn#m#_thomas at msgw.vf.lmco.com> Subject: Late-Nite Pubs in Silicon Valley Here's a very specific, regional request: I'm working a late shift for the next 2 weeks in Sunnyvale, CA-ending at 11pm. All the nearby microbreweries that I know of are closed by this time. So, does anyone know of a brewpub or bar with lots o' taps which is both nearby and open until at least 12 midnight? Please reply by private email to: penn#m#_thomas at msgw.vf.lmco.com Many Thanks Tom Penn Bordentown, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 22:28:16 -0500 From: Art Steinmetz <asteinm at pipeline.com> Subject: A more efficient brew day I am the proud new owner of a SABCO RIMS unit. After only two batches I find my brew day is materially shorter despite similar mash, boil and chilling times. The pre-set filter bed that recirculation provides makes for a shorter sparge. Thats peculiar to the RIMS concept but a dramatic time reduction also comes in liquid transfer and preparation for liquid transfer times. Just close one valve and open another. I mention this because I learned something I could have applied in the 10 years I was brewing with lobster pots and picnic coolers. Careful attention to placement of vessels would have helped enormously. If I had been smart I would have created a three-tier gravity arrangment before starting each brew instead of lifting the pots, etc. up above the receiving vessel at transfer time. I would have used rigid pvc pipe instead of soft tubing for my transfers since I was continually watching the hose to make sure it wasn't flopping about. At the very least it makes sense to more formally secure various hoses and such. I had thought about these issues in the past but didn't think they were worth the effort. I was wrong. - -- Art Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 22:48:36 -0600 (CST) From: kblair40 at midwest.net (Ken Blair) Subject: Wheats of All Kinds Starting brewing in early January and have my 5th batch happily bubbling away (all extracts)! I seem to have become enamored with brewing wheats for some reason. My first batch was a kit weiss from Brewmaster that turned out well. After an Irish Stout that also did well, I brewed 2 weizenbiers to which I added a pound of honey; one was about 4 gallons of wort while the other was about 6 gallons (I was relaxing and having homebrew(s) while I did them :) ). Both turned out well, though quite different due to the difference in volume. My current batch is a Morgan's Wheat to which I added 3 lbs of light DME. Can't wait to see the character of this one! Now my question(s): * What adjuncts have any of you added to wheat and what sort of characteristics did you get? * For all my batches, the fermentation has taken place at ~75F and have lasted no more than 2 to 2.5 days. What differences would I expect if the fermentation took a longer amount of time (i.e. at a lower temp)? I don't bottle/keg until at least a week (at least 3.5 days after no more activity). * Any ideas on how to easily prime a batch for both bottling and kegging? I typically use 4 oz. of priming sugar mixed into the flat beer. My stout came out over-carbonated (which I expected). I haven't tapped the kegs of honey-wheat yet, but expect them to be pretty foamy. I'd prefer not to have to separate the batch due to potential contamination and "un-natural" losses :) . Private e-mail expected and appreciated. I'll summarize the results if appropriate. Ken Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Mar 1997 01:21:45 -0400 From: "Penn, Thomas" <penn#m#_thomas at msgw.vf.lmco.com> Subject: Kustom Keg Kooler Kevin asked about tailoring a refrigerator/cooling coil to a keg. A different suggestion comes to mind: Use Thermoelectric Coolers (TECs). These are low voltage solid-state devices which cool using the Peltier effect. They are the guts inside these electric food coolers that you see advertised. I have seen a keg cooler system advertised in beer magazines. I'm not sure how practical/efficient it is, but the idea is this: Wrap the keg in a thick layer of insulation, and attach one or more TECs to the keg. Be sure to have a good heat sink on the warm side of the coolers (fan or large metal heat spreader). You will need a low voltage, high current power supply to convert house current to the necessary levels. The TECs can be purchased from Melcor in Trenton, NJ and from another company in Texas. Both companies have good web pages with tech info. Tom Penn Bordentown, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 14:35:01 -0600 From: "Mack Huntress" <mack at deltanet.com> Subject: Custom Keg refridgeration >. I want to make this somewhat > portable (just wheel it to destination and plug it in), so I prefer not > using a standard > off the shelf small fridge with door compartments, freezer, etc. I use the > cylindrical > 5 or 3 gallon soda kegs. I am wondering if it is possible to wrap the kegs > in a cooling > coil that is custom fitted. Is this possible with off the shelf plumbing ? I recently heard of a micro using the refrigeration from water fountains to cool couls wrapped around fermenters. I suppose if you could salvage an old water fountain you could attempt a similar thing for a corney. I'm not sure about the details but if it's possible then it seems as though you could make a somewhat compact refridgeration unit. You might want to make a jockey box instead. The parts are more readily available (and cheaper most likely) and you don't even need electricity. -Mack Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:36:00 -0700 (MST) From: Ian Smith <rela!isrs at netcom.com> Subject: Kegging - foamy beer I recently purchase a kegging system and need help! I carbonated at 40 psi for a day, reduced the pressure to 7 psi, chilled in refrigerator and whenever I dispense a beer all I get is FOAM ! I am using a 1/4" ID superflex clear vinyl hose about 3 feet long and one of those plastic "no drip" beer taps. Can anyone help me with why I get 100% foam ??? Cheers Ian Smith isrs at rela.uucp.netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 08:03:12 -0500 From: Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com> Subject: re: pH meter haywire > In HBD#2372 Russ Kruska asks about a crazy pH meter: > Everything was > going smoothly as I was getting a reduction in pH of 0.1 for each teaspoon > of 10% lactic acid (I had made adjustments from 5.9 down to 5.6). I wanted > to continue and get this down below 5.5 when suddenly my meter readings > were bouncing all over the place (even up to 15 !!!).> I strongly suspect either a loose connection, or that the meter or electrode is just shot. In pH meters, you get what you pay for; how good of a meter is/was it? In my experience, the lifetime of a meter costing <$100 is about 6 months. <opinion> I'm a lab chemist. At work, I use a $500 Orion meter with a $120 electrode. For home brewing, I use ColorpHast pH strips. At $15/box of 100, I can make many more readings than I'd get before trashing a $100 el cheapo meter, with very similar accuracy. YMMV, but I don't recommend pH meters for home use. </opinion> > I had just calibrated the meter about 6 weeks ago with 4 and 7 buffer > solutions. I also cool all readings to room temperature as I do not have > ATC with my old meter. Any suggestions ??? This probably isn't related to the haywire readings, but you should calibrate the meter at least once a day any time you use it. In the absence of regular calibration, you shouldn't count on more than +/- 0.5 pH unit accuracy. In between uses, clean the electrode carefully, then store it with the tip immersed in saturated KCl solution ("keeper solution") or pH 4 buffer. Under no circumstances should you allow the tip to dry out. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 08:21:14 -0500 From: Bob McCowan <bob.mccowan at bmd.cpii.com> Subject: Charbrau About 5 weeks ago or so I brewed a dark lager using a 2-decoction mash. Unfortunately while boiling the first decoction I let the mash scorch. I didn't worry, cleaned the kettle and continued the brew. Now, I have 5 gallons of dark lager with charcoal overtones. Anyone have any ideas on how to get rid of the burnt taste? If not, I can always pretend that it was supposed to taste that way. Bob - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob McCowan ATG/Receiver-Protector voice: (508)-922-6000 x208 CPI BMD fax: (508)-922-8914 Beverly, MA 01915 e-mail: bob.mccowan at bmd.cpii.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 13:26:43 -0500 From: ajdel at mindspring.com (A. J. deLange) Subject: Haywire pH/Starters Russ Kruska's pH meter went haywire in the middle of a brew. As the event involved wild readings all over the scale I would assume that a wire broke probably where it enters the probe or at the BNC connecter. One can get a rough idea as to what is going on by a few simple tests. One is to lay out the electrode (in its soaker cap or bottle) and meter on a table top and move your hand near the lead wire and electrode. If this results in wild excursions of the reading it indicates an open circuit, possibly through a broken wire but possibly also due to exhaustion of the reference elecrode filling solution (is it a sealed electrode?). To check the meter itself short the inner pin in the input connector to the connector shell. This is best done with a terminating connector i.e. one with the center pin soldered to the sleeve but a paper clip will do in a pinch. The meter should read a steady pH near 7. Erratic readings under these circumstances indicate a problem (again probably an intermittancy) in the meter itself. I'd put my money on the electrode and replace it as the nature of the observations indicate it's something dramatic and not just ageing of the electrode. If it's refillable, try that before shelling out for a new one. Also check to be sure the junction is freely flowing. Note that pH meters should be recalibrated at least daily if not more often. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Herb Tuten asked about tasting starters. Starters taste awful because the object of a starter is to keep yeast in the exponential phase so that they reproduce rapidly. The metabolites of this phase don't make for very tasty beer which is why lagers are pitched with huge quantities of yeast and mimimum aeration. In checking a starter, therefore, what you are looking for is the presence of bacterial infection. This tends to result in foul smells rather than the admittedly unpleasant chemical smells and tastes (very sour) of an otherwise normal starter. About the only comfort I can offer is that with experience you will come to know what's normal and what isn't. A. J. deLange - Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore. Please Note New e-mail Address Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 06:45:52 -0600 (CST) From: "Karl F. Lutzen" <lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org> Subject: Brew-Tunes I was following this thread and I simply have to introduce the homebrewing community to a song a freind of mine wrote. He and his wife are local muscians and go by the name of Sidio and Hall. Here's the first verse and chorus: Life's Just Something To Do I've always been a seeker after knowledge and truth, wondered why the stares are in the sky. I never cared for details, what, when or where. Spent my life asking why. And I heard those philosophers, politicians, and saints. I read that catalogue from Sears. All available evidence indicates, life's just something to do while you're drinking beer. Life's just something to do while you're drinking beer. ... At least I feel it's quite profound. Afterall, as homebrewers, don't we live our lives while thinking and drinking beer? ================================================================== Karl Lutzen lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org System Administrator The Brewery http://alpha.rollanet.org/ One of the Homebrew Digest Janitors janitor@ brew.oeonline.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:01:43 -0500 From: joe-sysop at cyberbury.net Subject: AOB/AHA complaints Hi, folks; I've been lurking for a few years, posted once or twice. I'm (believe it or not) a confirmed extract brewer, since I haven't the time to spare for all-grain, or the ready cash to invest in equipment. I've seen quite a bit of discussion (haven't we all?) about the way the AOB/AHA does/doesn't work for us. (I'm not a member, by the way. Just haven't been able to free up the membership fee, since I'm dirt poor.) Most of the complaints seem to finish up with something like, "SOMEBODY should start up another organization more responsive to its membership." Well, rather than waiting around for this "somebody" to show up, why don't we do it? Here on the HBD, I feel we have a nucleus for something. Thinking off the top of my head, you could also pull in rec.crafts.brewing, and set up a pretty cool Internet-based organization, with a minimum of cash outlay. While I'm not exactly sitting around with a lot of time on my hands, I'd be willing to work to help set something up. I would enjoy it, too. There, I've said it. You can direct all responses/flames/death threats to either joe-sysop at cyberbury.net or joseph.labeck.jr at snet.net. Joseph M. Labeck, Jr. joe-sysop at cyberbury.net Writer, House-husband, Dad "If you tell the truth, you don't have to remember what you said!" Net-Tamer V 1.08X - Registered Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:26:46 -0500 (EST) From: David Hammond <hammer at nexen.com> Subject: Re: Wyeast 1275 (Thames Valley) > > Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 10:03:50 -0600 > From: Charles Epp <chuckepp at ukans.edu> > Subject: Wyeast 1275 (Thames Valley)/ 1318 London Ale III > > Hello fellow brewers: > > What is your experience with Wyeast's 1275 Thames Valley strain? This > is one of the relatively new strains, and I'm curious about its > performance and characteristics. When I visited England a few years ago > I was very impressed with the Henley (Brakspear) ales, supposedly the > source for 1275. > I can't account for any attenuation numbers, but I just finished a batch of British Bitter using Thames Valley that tastes very good to me. It was my first use of liquid yeast. I stepped it up twice, over the course of about 4 days, pitching on the 4th day (about 400 ml of starter). Primary fermentation began within 4 - 6 hours. Primary fermentation seemed to go on forever, nearly a full week! It ultimately appeared to flocculate well, but that, too, took a while. I left it in the secondary for an additional 2 weeks, bottled, and the resulting finished beer is quite clear. I nailed the FG. On a side note concerning this yeast, when I went to my local store to buy it, the master brewer for a local microbrew/restaurant beat me to it and bought their entire stock of this particular yeast. Don't know whether he was using it for the first time or not, but this may also have been a good sign of this yeast's abilities. Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:30:51 -0500 (EST) From: Btalk at aol.com Subject: contest announcement Contest announcement and call/beg for judges. The third annual Parlor City Brew Off, a BJCP sanctioned homebrew contest, is scheduled for April 19 at the A.O.H Hall in Binghamton, NY. All recognized styles of beer, cider and mead will be accepted. Any type bottles accepted, carbonaters accepted and returned. Refer to entry packets for details. Best of Show for beer wins a $100.00 gift certificate from West Creek HOmebrew of Endicott NY. Best Of Show for Meads and Ciders wins a gallon (12 lb) of honey. Cool plaques will also be given for each BOS first place. Ribbons will be awarded for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd in each category. Entry packets will be available around March 22 at the following dropoff points: DOc's, Binghamton, NY; E.J. Wren, Liverpool, NY; Heller's HOmebrew, Syracuse, NY; Eddy's Beverage/ The Hoppy Troll, Saratoga Springs, NY; Hudson River Brew Supply, Troy, NY; The Brewery Shop (FX Matt Brewery) Utica, NY. Entries may be dropped off or shipped to West Creek Brewing Supply, Endicott, NY. Entry deadline is Friday, April 11. Kurt Nelson, organizer <Nelson_K at sunybroome.edu> Judges and stewards - we need your help - please contact Bob Talkiewicz <btalk at aol.com> Breakfast stuff and Lunch provided:) For entry packets or miscellaneous info, contact assistant organizer Roger Haggett <rhaggett at juno.com> This is the final event in the NY Homebrewer of the Year circuit. Later, Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton, NY <btalk at aol.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 10:01:58 -0500 From: "Sornborger, Nathan" <nsornborger at email.mc.ti.com> Subject: re:Yeast Starter Tasting Herb asked: >My question is: How do you check >a yeast starter if the yeast is one which produces 'off'' >flavors initially but improves with time? I've read >several accounts of this yeast producing bad flavors >early, but becoming excellent after lagering. Any ideas? I have always taken a sample and put it under the microscope. The one case when I found an infection it was obvious in comparison to the usual yeast. Nate Sornborger, Barrington, RI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:09:52 -0600 From: Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> Subject: RE: brewing music..../Scottish/PLAID REVISITED!!! >Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 08:11:41 EST >From: "Rich Byrnes USAET(UTC -05:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com> >Subject: (U) > >>From: Dckdog at aol.com >>Subject: brewing music.... (BIG SNIP) > >WARNING! Don not, under any circumstance listen to anything Scottish or Irish >while brewing, many Celtic performers wear plaid while recording and you >definitely don't want that in your brew! > I love brewing while listening to Scottish folk music. I wear a lot of plaid, play my babpipes to areate the wort. I even pitch my brew with a good HAGGUS (sp?) starter! IF IT'S NOT SCOTTISH... IT'S CRAP! -Scott ################################################################ # ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT # # Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) # # OR # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ (Brew-Rat-Chat) # # "Get off your dead ass and brew" # # "If beer is liquid bread, maybe bread is solid beer" # ################################################################ Return to table of contents
Date-warning: Date header was inserted by BSUVC.bsu.edu From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill) Subject: RE: Conditioning in secondary vs bottle/keg Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> replies in 2372 to one of my posts: >OK, I'll bite. What is it about being under pressure that is >affecting how the yeast go about their business? It's my, often >limited, understanding that when people refer to conditioning or aging >of a beer they are referring to the yeast removing secondary >fermentation byproducts and higher alcohols from the green beer (sour >or other strange brews not included). At the same time, the yeast are >often removing desirable fermentation byproducts BTW. How does >pressure affect the yeasts performance? I don't know how it works, frankly, I get lost in a lot of the chemical and biological discussions--they're very interesting, but I'm not adequately trained in those fields. What I do know to be true of my brewing is that I have let my ales sit in the secondary for months and still had to wait for bottle/keg conditioning--not just carbonation--there was major flavor development after the beer was carbonated. Also, Mike Cinibulk Bellbrook, Ohio cinibumk at ml.wpafb.af.mil also replies: >This reminded me of a question that I keep forgetting to ask. What is the >best way to lager if priming in the bottle to carbonate? In secondary and >then bottle, or bottle when fermentation is complete and then cool to lager? >Does a closed system matter (to allow CO2 to scrub out H2S, etc., which BTW I >never see occuring)? Does pressure matter as Brian claims? Is there enough >yeast present if we rack the beer of off the thin yeast cake in the secondary? >Does OG of the wort or style (Pils vs. Doppelbock) matter? > >I would prefer to bottle and carbonate first and then lager in the bottle. Well, I have very little experience with lagers, but it seems to me that you would need to do some lagering before you bottle as there are gasses being scrubbed out of solution that you probably don't want to any great extent in the final product. In any case, I was not arging for "lagering in the bottle" just stating that I think some period of conditioning under pressure is beneficial no matter how long you lager the beer (or let it sit in secondary). If fermentation is complete, you can certainly force carb and enjoy the beer right away, but it normally will continue to improve somewhat if you let it condition under pressure. - --Brian Pickerill, Muncie Malt Mashers, Muncie, IN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:40:06 -0600 From: Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> Subject: Re: Wyeast 1275 (Thames Valley)/ 1318 London Ale III Charles Epp <chuckepp at ukans.edu> Wrote: >Hello fellow brewers: > >What is your experience with Wyeast's 1275 Thames Valley strain? This >is one of the relatively new strains, and I'm curious about its >performance and characteristics. When I visited England a few years ago >I was very impressed with the Henley (Brakspear) ales, supposedly the >source for 1275. > >Also, I can add another data point on 1318, London Ale III. Although >Wyeast reports that attenuation for 1318 should be 71-75%, other brewers >have reported in this forum very sluggish ferments and poor attenuation >when using that yeast (although performance may be improved when >fermenting above 70 F). I recently used 1318 in an Old Ale and had a >long (2 1/2 week) ferment at 68 F, with a miserable 66% attenuation, >even with repeated rousing through vigorous shaking of the carboy. >Maybe I'm a glutton for punishment, but I've got an ESB going with 1318 >now, and I'm trying to keep it above 70 to see if temperature, as others >reported, makes much difference. I'll try to report results when this is >finished. > >In the meantime, I'd appreciate any observations on 1275 Thames Valley. > Private email is fine, and I'll post a summary. > >Chuck in Lawrence, KS I posted a query to the collective sometime last year about this yeast strain to see what other people on the HBD were getting from this yeast. Somewhere around 95% of the responses were experiencing major headaches from the Thames Valley strain. In my brewing, I have traditionally had great luck with yeast performance and I haven't had a batch that was infected that I can remember. The Thames Valley strain gave me nothing but trouble. Slow barely active ferments, long primary ferments (one went for 26 days at 68f and still crapped out at 1.018). The yeast left many of my brews tasting like christmas fruit baskets. I have had great luck with the British Ale and the 1056 strain. One strain of 1056 made it into 20 different batches with great success and no mutation. I used the Thames on about five different tried and true recipes and got the some pretty fruity, slow fermenting brews that tasted nothing like the beer I know I brewed. The over powering taste of the yeast was impossible to get rid of. One of my wheat ales was lagered for over 30 days at about 36-40f and it still tasted like a large glass of yeast. I tried to ferment at different temps for primary. some in the low 60's (f) and some around 70-76(f) to see what results I would get. For me it seemed that the yeast performed the same at any temp. SLOW! Also, as I said I used this strain on "tried and true" recipes. Recipes where my final gravities have over time always been between 1.008 to 1.012. With the Thames Valley my finals were more like 1.018 to 1.022. So I ask the collective again.... Has anybody had good resluts with this yeast? How'd you achieve these results? I and others would love to know.. C'ya! -Scott ################################################################ # ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT # # Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) # # OR # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ (Brew-Rat-Chat) # # "Get off your dead ass and brew" # # "If beer is liquid bread, maybe bread is solid beer" # ################################################################ Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Mar 1997 10:56:24 +0600 From: "Craig Rode" <craig.rode at qmcin4.sdrc.com> Subject: Stuck EZMasher (tm) and Slo Howdy. In HBD 2371, Paul S asks about a stuck sparge with the EZMasher. I have one of those, and had used it for over 30 batches without a stuck sparge. Until a couple of weeks ago. No change in my American Pale Ale grain bill from other batches. Suddenly....slow to stopped. Took me 2.5 hours. What I found was that while I thought I had been cleaning the screen thoroughly, little bitsy teeny weeny bits of grain and husk had accumulated in the screen. Had to hold it up to the light to see it. Kinda made me think of my arteries, but that's another subject. They would not be washed out, no matter the water pressure. I resorted to banging the thing against the sink for about 10 minutes, every bang causing stuff to fly out. After that, no problem next batch. Moral: Clean that screen! In the same issue, John B askes about continued bubbling of his IPA using Wyeast 1056. I'm betting you're fermenting at below 65F. My basement is about 62F this time of year, and I've had ales go for a month with this yeast. They always turn out great. Finally, I gotta ask....Scot, what are you doing with all that beer? Craig Rode (aka Milwaukee Brewer) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 97 10:18:00 EST From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess at mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> Subject: It's Spring!!! Just thought I pass along a little note to all of you who are tired of ole man winter. I just noticed to my great surprise that my second-year Cascades are growing like gangbusters already. They're about a foot high and have several shoots already. Almost time to start pruning. I live in South Carolina and we're having an early warm spring. I just hope we don't get a late frost now! Later, Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:24:30 -0800 From: "Kim Lux" <lux at cadvision.com> Subject: Re: Liquid Transfer using Peristaltic Pumps I too have been contemplating using a peristaltic (tubing) pump to move wort and beer from place to place. These pumps have a number of very good qualities including: 1) being easy to sanitize, having only to sanitize the tube that comprises the pump; 2) being able to withstand high temperatures (as high as the tubing which can be found for the pump, often > 212F); 3) the ability to move beer without foaming (tubing pumps are largely slow running, constant displacement pumps) 4) the ability to provide enough pressure to force beer through a filter. I would like to have two such pumps. One hand operated for moving beer from carboy to carboy, maybe filtering while moving, and a motorized pump to circulate boiling wort through a counterflow chiller to assist in its sterilization and for circulating mash fluid through a heat exchanger for temperature control. I know of only one supplier of these pumps, that being a company named Omega. (They have a series of catalogs for just about every industrial process control widget you might ever need ...) I have not gotten a catalog from them yet. I seem to remember there being a hand operated tubing pump on the market (used for emptying crankcases of oil ?) about 10 years ago. Does anyone remember such a product or know if it is still available ? I have been unable to find a local source of tubing pumps in my city. I think one could purchase just the "head" for a tubing pump from Omega and power it with a windshield wiper motor or another suitable AC powered motor. This might be cheaper and more suitable than purchasing a pre assembled industrial unit. Kim Lux Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:33:07 -0500 From: TOM ELIASSEN <TELIASSEN at aot.state.vt.us> Subject: Liquid Transfer using Peristaltic Pumps Like many others, I tend to loose it when it comes to siphoning. In my search for techniques and/or equipment to help me perform this task I began to think about the use of a peristaltic pump to get my beer from one carboy to another. I used to use this type of pump when I was working in the environmental consulting business. Sampling groundwater for volatile organic compounds requires that the collection method not introduce air during sampling. Seems we have the same concern when we are trying to rack from one fermenter to another. The important features of this type of pump is that they are self-priming, do not introduce significant air to the liquid and liquid in the tube does not touch anything in the process. I began looking in the scientific catalogues for a cheap peristaltic pump and so far have come up with the VWRbrand Variable Flow Mini-Pump. This pump is listed at $119.00 which is still relatively expensive but considering the cost of other brewing equipment these days may be worth the cost. Anyway, I am writing this message to find out if anybody else has first hand knowledge with using these pumps in home brewing. - ---------------------------------------------------- Tom Eliassen teliassen at aot.state.vt.us Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 11:14:56 -0500 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Fermentation, Brewsters: Alex Santic describes his anticS with his brew. Alan, I think the fermentation is finished. You probably pitched the right amount and its all over. You're just disturbing all that CO2 that is captured in your beer. Don't worry check it with Clinitest. - ----------------------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents