HOMEBREW Digest #2412 Tue 06 May 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@ brew.oeonline.com
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Oak for Casks (Michael Newman)
  CIP for RIMS (The Holders)
  Dominion Cup Competition (Jeff Hewit)
  Recipe Request: TRAQUAIR House Ale Recipe (all Grain Please) (Scott Abene)
  Re: Botulism ("Mark Ellis")
  Re: SA Stock Ale (Brad Kazmer)
  Invert Candi/Gelatin (eric fouch)
  re:  NA beer (bdebolt)
  Franziskraner (Chris Webster)
  1995 AOB/AHA Tax reports (Scott Abene)
  50 Year old Info (Charles Burns)
  Nitrogen, ("David R. Burley")
  Re: Corn (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Gelatin fining (Jeff Renner)
  Re:U Flecka & Angela's Ashes (Alex Santic)
  Clubs (Eamonn McKernan)
  Hops Growing Question. (Jon Yusko)
  homebrew alcohol content ("Nathan L. Kanous II")
  Beer page (Kevin Kane)
  Corn Grits vs Meal (DJBrew)
  Immersion Chiller and Boil-Over (MCer1235)
  Re: Broken Thermometer (RedlackC)
  One solution for compressor cycling on your refrigerator (LINUSNLILA)
  Homebrew potency (Randy Ricchi)
  Enamel Kettles ("Curiouser and curiouser...")
  Pressure Follies - Trial brew goes awry. Strange beer results. (Charles Rich)
  re: seal on 5 gallon Gott cooler ("Robert Marshall")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 06:35:58 -0400 From: Michael Newman <MWNewman at compuserve.com> Subject: Oak for Casks As Graham Wheeler pointed out in HBD2407 it was not usual to use English oak for casks in the UK. E R Southby's Practical Brewing of 1895 says: - --Casks are generally made of foreign oak, although in some country districts where oak is abundant, the coopers and brewers occasionally use English oak. This latter has to be sawn into staves, as the grain is not straight enough for splitting. Foreign staves are all split, and then roughly planed.-- - --The qualities of foreign oak staves used for casks are as follows:- - --Stettin, which is the best quality of all, but is now very scarce. Memmel, this is what is now generally used for the best quality.-- - --Odessa, Blumeza, and Riga are some of the other qualities.-- - --Vats should be made of English oak.-- I assume that English oak in this context is the species Quercus robar (English Oak) or perhaps Quercus petraea (Sessile Oak) but I have no hard evidence. What species the other types of oak consist in I have no idea. Certainly Q. petraea and Q. robar grow throughout northern Europe. Graham was right to say the English oak was rarely used to make casks but it is important to remember that the term English oak can mean two things: 1. Oak grown in England 2. A tree of the species Q. robar If the latter definition is used (which is the usual usage in the UK) then casks made in England would quite often me made of foreign English oak (if you see what I mean). But if these various foreign oaks are in fact Q. robar and this is also English oak why does English oak have to be sawn when foreign oak can be split. Anyone? Michael Newman Warminster, UK MWNewman at compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MWNewman Beer isn't the only thing in life; it's much more important than that. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 10:12:46 -0600 From: mcatee at cadvision.com (Chris McAtee) Subject: POLAR WARE STAINLESS SPOON I was given a SS spoon by POLAR WARE at a HWBTA trade show in Banff, Alberta. This is an amazing machine! Very heavy duty, 21" long (whole inside length of a Sanke keg), won't fall into your boil, and the spoon part fits into a pint mason jar! Very good quality, not like some of the cheaper made in India types. I'm not affiliated with Polar Ware, just a satisfied customer! They are probably expensive but worth it! Chris McAtee Calgary, Alberta Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 12:28:22 -0700 From: The Holders <zymie at m4.sprynet.com> Subject: CIP for RIMS Does anyone have any recommendations for a CIP solution for use in a RIMS with copper piping and Brass solenoid valves? Something readily available would be preferred to an industrial CIP solution. TIA, Wayne Holder Zymico(tm) Long Beach CA "Is that 1 tsp, or 1 Tbs of spit?" http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/zymie Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 May 1997 21:18:14 -0400 From: Jeff Hewit <jhewit at erols.com> Subject: Dominion Cup Competition The James River Homebrewers Club is accepting entries for the Dominion Cup Homebrew Competition now thru May 31, 1997. Judging will take place on June 7th, 1997 at the Legend Brewing Company in Richmond, Virginia. The Competition is sanctioned by the American Homebrew Association and all Homebrewers are invited to enter. Entries will be judged in ten style categories with a ribbon and merchandise prize awarded to Best of Category winners. The Best of Show winner will also receive an engraved Dominion Cup. CONTACT: Lindsay Weiford, Competition Coordinator at (804)537-5228, Leave message with name and address. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 May 1997 20:58:17 -0500 From: Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> Subject: Recipe Request: TRAQUAIR House Ale Recipe (all Grain Please) Hi all, My Homebrew grubbing neighbor from down the street finally bought me a beer today... It was a TRAQUAIR House Ale (made by the oldest brewery in Scotland) Has anybody tried to make this brew? Anybody got a good all-grain recipe for it? Let me know. -Scott "Bow Down to Plaid... It is the Only Way!" Abene ################################################################ # ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT # # Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) # # OR # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ (Brew-Rat-Chat) # # "Get off your dead ass and brew" # # "If beer is liquid bread, maybe bread is solid beer" # ################################################################ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 13:41:10 +1000 From: "Mark Ellis" <mellis at gribbles.com.au> Subject: Re: Botulism Hi Peoples, I just thought that I would throw in my 2 cents worth as I work for a Pathology company and I went and had a chat with one of our microbiologists. Anyway, the main points he outlined was: 1. Clostidium bacterias are anaerobic, Yeast is essentially aerobic. Therefore in a normal prepared wort, which should be highly aerated, the Clostridium will die off as they cannot live in a oxygen rich environment. Basically, our friend and foe here are at exact opposite ends of the scale. 2. Clostridiums are heat sensitive. Optimum temp is in the region of 35C.Raising to anything above 45C would spell big trouble for this bacterias life expectancy. There be my 2 cents worth. Mark Ellis mellis at gribbles.com.au Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 00:56:42 -0500 (CDT) From: Brad Kazmer <kazmerbn at vuse.vanderbilt.edu> Subject: Re: SA Stock Ale Thanks to all for help in designing a recipe for Sam Adams Stock Ale Here's a summary of the information received: Beer: SA Boston Ale Malts: 2-row Klages/Harrington, Caramel 60L. Hops: Saaz, Fuggles, Goldings Yeast: Ale Flavor Characteristics: Very spicy and herbal aroma balanced by malty and sweet finish, fruity. Color: Deep Red-Amber Alcohol by Wt: 3.9% OG: 1.053/13.31 Special/Unique Ingredients & Procedures: "Stock Ale" - It begins with a warm ale fermentation, but it's krausened and aged at cooler temperatures. Dry hopped with Goldings Maximum Aging: 20 -30 days 7.5 # Alexander's light malt extract (they use only 2 row klages/harrington from Great Western malting) .75 # caramel malt 60L .25 # malto dextrin powder (for body) 1.5 oz. Fuggle (6% alpha)-60 minutes .5 oz. Saaz (3% alpha) -20 min. 1 oz. East Kent Golding 5 min. 1 oz. Saaz 5 min. .5 oz. Fuggle 5 min. Wyeast # 1338 European (for the malty, sweet finish) Steep grain with 1.5 gal soft at 150F for 30 minutes in grain bag, strain with 1 gallon 170F water. Bring to boil, slide pot off heat & add extract & maltodextrin. Add .25 tsp. Irish moss if you have it. Stir. Return to heat, add boiling hops at first boil, start timer for 60 minutes. When 20 minutes remain, add second hop & boil 15 more minutes. At 5 minutes remaining add EKG, Saaz, & Fuggle. If experience tells you to add more finishing hops, do so. Remember this is your beer and I'm making an educated guess!! Strain out hops, cool with wort chiller or ice bath, add to cold water in fermenter and pitch Wyeast 1338 at 75F (Remember to make a pint or quart starter for best results!). Ferment at 65F until done, bottle and carbonate (at room temp) for another week, then cold condition, in your fridge, for several weeks before consuming. There's a recipe from a homebrew club in Maryland which can be found on their website (I don't have the address). Thanks to all Brad - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- | '|E Brad Kazmer | | # kazmerbn at vuse.vanderbilt.edu | | # | | _#_ "Mister, I ain't a boy, no I'm a man, | | ( # ) and I believe in the promised land" | | / O \ | | ( O ) -Bruce Springsteen, | | ` ----- The Promised Land. | - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 07:53:27 -0500 (EST) From: eric fouch <S=fouch%G=eric%DDA=ID=STC021.efouch%0004972576 at mcimail.com> Subject: Invert Candi/Gelatin - --Boundary (ID i.g+01I_IIEXO5,ERW9-34Q4.ODGI2IG) Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii - ----------------------------- Application message id: STC010 970505084916675371 Posted date: MON MAY 05, 1997 4:49 am GMT Importance: Normal Grade of Delivery: Normal - ----------------------------- - --Boundary (ID i.g+01I_IIEXO5,ERW9-34Q4.ODGI2IG) Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Description: 7 BIT ASCII Date: Monday, 5 May 1997 8:46am ET To: STC012.HOMEBRE3 at STC010.SNADS From: Eric.Fouch at STC001 Subject: Invert Candi/Gelatin In-Reply-To: The letter of Monday, 5 May 1997 3:13am ET HBD- For my "Bastard Belgian Ale" I prepared an "invert candi sugar": I cooked 2 cups of cane sugar, 1/2 cup of honey, 1/4 cup water and 1 tsp 10% H3PO4 to 150 C (half way between soft crack and hard crack on a candy thermometre). I tried two batches, one I dropped (carefully) into cold water, one poured onto a cookie sheet heavily dusted with powdered sugar. (The powdered sugar method was a little less messy.) Anyway, the resultant substance had a wonderful tang to it, and I used a pound of it in my "BBA". Did I make anything besides slightly acidified sucrose? I was hoping to perhaps create some isomerized flavour compounds. I used Belgian Strong Ale Wyeast 1388. Anybody used it before? I haven't found any references to this yeast anywhere. I always use gelatin (about a tsp. in a cup of boiled, HOT water) in the secondary (sometimes the primary with no racking) and I get very clear beer, and compleat carbonization in the bottle in about two - three weeks. I also have noticed substantially less stuff in the bottom of my bottles. Cheer Eric Fouch Efouch at steelcase.com Bent Dick YactoBrewery Kentwood, MI - --Boundary (ID i.g+01I_IIEXO5,ERW9-34Q4.ODGI2IG)-- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 08:15:43 -0500 From: bdebolt at dow.com Subject: re: NA beer On Friday Chas Peterson asks about alcohol content in NA beer. First to relay my own experience, which was sent to the digest about two years ago (search for more details). I tried a similar technique, heating beer to about 180F for 15 minutes, then drank it with no noticeable alcohol affect. To really test out how well this worked I then heated/boiled beer for various times (without being concerned about flavor) and measured the ethanol directly by gas chromatography. Basically you need to drive off about 30% of the volume of your beer before you will get down below 1.0%. In order to really drop the alcohol you must remove a certain amount of water with it. Heating (without boiling) will lower the alcohol, but not as low as I assume you want. If you could heat it under a vacuum and boil at lower temperatures you cold minimize some of the negative effects, but you might get arrested for operating a still -). I'm not aware of any cheap way to measure ethanol content accurately. I had access to a gas chromatograph so that's what I used. Good luck. Bruce DeBolt bdebolt at dow.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 09:36:21 From: Chris Webster <Chris_Webster at meridianvat.com> Subject: Franziskraner Does anyone have a similar recipe to the German(?) beer Franziskraner? Please email privately. Thanks Chris W chris_webster at meridianvat.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 09:25:12 -0500 From: Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> Subject: 1995 AOB/AHA Tax reports Hi All, I have finally gotten to scanning and placing in Zip format the AOB/AHA 1995 Non-profit Org Tax reports and they should be available as a Zip file on my www site (http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/aob-aha-666/) as of Thursday morning. Special thanks to Jim Liddil who took the time almost 2 months ago to mail this info to me. Sorry for the delay Jim.. I had four new websites to put up for work and they pay me.. If anything I think this information is Interesting. C'ya! -Scott ################################################################ # ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT # # Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) # # OR # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ (Brew-Rat-Chat) # # "Get off your dead ass and brew" # # "If beer is liquid bread, maybe bread is solid beer" # ################################################################ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 97 08:45 PDT From: cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us (Charles Burns) Subject: 50 Year old Info Futher discussions of malt specifications by Russ B and Dave B in hbd#2411 point out the basic reasons behind my less than scientific experiments: >Russ Brodeur asks: >>Does anyone out there have any information to share regarding the >>proteolytic enzyme content of various malts, both pale and not-so pale?? > >Dave B responds (in part): >DeClerk (50 yr old info) says the proteolytic content of Pale Ale Malts >(that is British Pale Malts in those days ) is about 60% of the >Contintental (lager,pils) Pale malts. I am not sure how valid this is >today. > Whine mode on... How good (accurate and useful) is 50 year old information? Granted, fundamental biologic realities haven't changed much over time but certainly agricultural processes have and certainly malting technology has. Isn't it time for someone to redo the DeClerk studies and publish the results? I'd bet there are a **bunch** of people that would gladly pay for current, accurate information. Whine mode off, CharlEY B (spelled with an EY and last initial B in N. Cal) - --------------------------------------------------------------- Charles Burns, Director, Information Systems Elk Grove Unified School District cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us, http://www.egusd.k12.ca.us 916-686-7710 (voice), 916-686-4451 (fax) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 11:50:18 -0400 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Nitrogen, Brewsters: Further on the nitrogen post, most of the posts were correct - a few missed the point. I'm going to summarize the correct ones and add some new stuff all in one place, so it will be easier to understand how it all fits together. Henry's law points out that the solubility of any gas is dependent upon the pressure of that gas and INDEPENDENT of the other gas pressures. Translated that means that higher nitrogen pressures will not affect CO2 solubility and vice versa. Remember all of this Henry's law stuff is AT EQUILIBRIUM. Which takes a looong time to get to - like infinity in theory - but in a practical world depends on the gas and other stuff and can occur rapidly or slowly. Luckily for us CO2 equilibrates slowly and explains why we can have bubbles in our beer and deliver a beer without all foam. The rate at which CO2 comes to practical equilibrium is such that it requires about a day. And is dependent on lots of things like physical agitation, temperature and the surfactant content of your beer - i.e. the soluble protein and other things which stabilize the CO2. ( For you skeptics, think about bottled water versus beer) Beer will go flat in about a day if the CO2 in the head is replaced with nitrogen or air, since the CO2 comes out of the beer attempting to bring the CO2 pressure back to the pressure at which it is in equilibrium with the CO2 dissolved in the beer. If the headspace is large ( like your room) the CO2 keeps on coming out and can never come to equilibrium. If the headspace is small like the headspace in a bottle which has been opened, some of the liquid removed and then resealed ( e.g. a plastic twist top coke bottle), CO2 will come out, reducing the condition of the carbonated liquid in the bottle until it comes to a new equilibrium at a lower pressure than before it was opened. This is because the amount of CO2 is limited by what was dissolved in the liquid and the small amount in the original headspace . If you want to use a mixture of nitrogen and CO2 the mixture ratio should calculate out such that, at delivery pressure, the partial pressure of the CO2 should be about 5-10 PSIG in the headspace. So if you are delivering a long way through a narrow diameter hose and have a headspace total pressure of 20 psig, the mix should be between 30/70 CO2/N2 and 50/50 CO2/N2. I doubt most homebrewers will need to do this as they can use the small 5# cylinder of CO2 and can carry this, a cooler to hold ice and the keg to the consumption site. Now the Stout head is an entirely different issue as a special tip on the delivery spout is used to force air or nitrogen into the FOAM - not the beer. ( Called a "sparkler" in some places) The idea is that air or nitrogen is not very soluble in the beer ( about 1/100 that of CO2) and once it "breaks through" into the bubbles, by the mechanical action of the sparkler, it will not escape as quickly as CO2 which can dissolve in the beer in the bubble wall and escape. The nitrogen stays in the bubble and gives that long lasting silky head and flat beer that Guiness and other stouts are famous for. - ---------------------------------------------------------- Chas Peterson says >I recently was requested by a friend who cannot have alcohol to make a ">no-alcohol" beer. In reading the contributions to THE BREWERY on this >Subject, I was able to take a case of dissappointing IPA, heat it to 180 for >15 minutes, and then force cool, rack to a keg, and force carbonate. Chas. You did NOT remove the alcohol from the beer by this method. You may have pasteurized it. If your friend is a recovering alcohlic do NOT serve this to him under ANY circumstances. So-called non-alcohol beer available commercially still has some alcohol in it. You cannot make it without special equipment that involves membrane exchange or other physical method to remove most ( but not all) of the alcohol. You said: >The last thing I want to do is trigger some sort of relapse.... > Now I drank a pint of this stuff >on a completely empty stomach yesterday, and didn't feel any significant >effects of the residual alcohol. I have read and heard from friends and employees who are recovering alcoholics, that alcoholics cannot take even small quantities of alcohol without triggering a relapse (e.g. they need alcohol free mouthwash,etc), so unless your friend knows he can drink "non-alcohol" beer safely (which he probably cannot) do not try to serve him any beer - commercial or otherwise, no matter how "safe" the beer may appear to be to you. You will both regret it. Serve him some good strong Melita coffee black or with real cream and he will thank you. Today and tomorrow. - ------------------------------------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 12:08:19 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Corn In Homebrew Digest #2411 (May 05, 1997), "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> writes: > Darren Gaylor says: > >>I .. want to try a double mash with >>A non-gelatanized corn adjunt. The bulk food section of our grocery >>Store carries both corn meal and grits. Which would be better >>For brewing purposes? > >I always use grits as you have less chance to plug up in the lautering step >since grits are larger than cornmeal in most cases. Also Grits are white >corn and most corn meal is yellow ( although the white is available). I >cook the grits in water until they thicken, add cold water to bring the >temperature down to about 150F and add water and the grist to bring it down >to the strike temperature. Take it through all the holds 122F, 135F and >155-158F. I also make a goods mash on occasion in which 10-15% of the >malt is added after cooling and a quick mash is carried out on the adjunct >to reduce its viscosity. Which method you use is determined by the amount >and type of adjunct added. I use this method with cream of wheat and rice >or pearl barley (chipped to a small size in my mill before cooking) also. >I have never tried these, but assume the "instant" cereals are >pre-gelatinized by heat or treated chemically. Daren, don't limit yourself to lawnmower beer. Brew to a gravity of 1.048+, keep the corn to 20-25%, and hop to 30-35 IBUs with noble hops for flavor and aroma, especially with first wort hopping (FWH) and you've got yourself a Classic American Pilsner. See my article in Brewing Techniques , Sept/Oct'95 and the cover article in the new issue of Zymurgy for details. Brew yourself an American classic! I agree with the suggestion of using grits, although I've used cornmeal, too, and only noticed that I got a tablespoon or so under the picoBrewing Systems brand slotted false bottom. No clogging. A few other points, however. Grits do come in yellow. I'm not sure what color brewers grits are, but when I ordered Briess grits through a brewing supplier, thinking Briess would carry brewers grits (I found out later they don't), I got a 50 lbs. bag of "Insta Grains (R) IYCG Yellow Corn Grit (Instantized)" from Briess' food division. I called customer service and the rep wasn't sure if "instantized" meant that they were fully gelatinized and could be added straight to the mash or not, so she checked and called back to say they were and could be. I since have become suspicious that they should be cooked a little while. I have tried cooking them for about five minutes as breakfast grits (can you say "y'awl?"). They cooked fine, but I noticed a kind of roast corn flavor. It was pleasant, but unusual. I suspect it came from whatever precooking, probably steaming, they used to "instantize" the grits. I haven't detected this as any off flavor in a dark beer using them at 20%, and my Classic American Pilsner with 22% grits, where any off flavor would be very noticeable, is still lagering, but there was no such flavor in the wort. At any rate, I cooked these for brewing just as I would raw grits since I wanted to duplicate turn of the century technique from Wahl and Henius (2nd edition, 1902, pp. 716-717, available on-line thanks to Spencer Thomas at: http://hubris.engin.umich.edu:8080/Wahl/ Wahl and Henius recommend boiling corn grits for 75 minutes with malt (45 for corn meal), with 30% as much malt as corn, which works out to 5 oz.malt/lb. corn. They suggest a mash-in and 15 minute rest at 100F to solubolize enzymes, then a rapid boost to 158 with a 30 minute rest, then a rapid boost to boil. Use plenty of water - they say one barrel (31 gal) per 100 lbs material, which is roughly 5 cups/lb. I have had good luck with this. You could pressure cook this for less time, as I have, or even more for more Maillard reactions. For rice (but who would want this for a CAP?, but maybe a good choice for lawnmower beer), they recommend 25% malt, or 4 oz./lb rice, and more water - one barrel per 75 lbs. material, or roughly 6-1/2 cups water per lbs rice/malt. BTW, I can't imagine that processors gelatinize cereals with chemicals. Steaming is the usual and most obvious method. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 12:14:59 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Gelatin fining In Homebrew Digest #2411 (May 05, 1997), George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) wrote: > Somebody (sorry, can't remember who) asked if their would be enough > yeast left in suspension to carbonate the beer after gelatin fining. > > In my case, the beer is a lager and has been at 33F (0.5C) for 2 > months, and is remarkably clear. If I wanted to bottle condition it, > I would add a fresh dose of yeast. It may carbonate without the extra > yeast, but it would take a long time (and maybe not work at all). My experience has been that it works just fine with the original yeast, with a 3 month lagered Bock in one case. I did make sure that I sucked up a little yeast from the bottom of the lagering carboy, not that I could easily have avoided it. They carbonate normally, with a *very* thin layer of yeast on the bottom of the bottle. The Bock took a BOS. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 12:35:51 -0400 (EDT) From: Alex Santic <alex at salley.com> Subject: Re:U Flecka & Angela's Ashes kathy <kbooth at scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us> wrote: >On another subject, I'm reading "Angela's Ashes" the Pulitizer Prize and >National Book Award winner. Da is an Irishman with the "cravings". It >ought to be required reading for us beer enthusiasts. For the record, Angela's Ashes is by Frank McCourt. Frank used to teach at Stuyvesant High School, a special math & science public high school in New York City. He was my creative writing teacher, and one of the coolest and most beloved teachers in the school. Throughout his time at Stuy, he used to tell his students stories about growing up poor in Limerick, Ireland. After his retirement, these biographical and autobiographical snippets developed into a book. Angela's Ashes quickly hit the New York Times best-seller list and then won the Pulitzer Prize for biography a few weeks ago. Alex Santic NYC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 13:22:28 -0400 From: Eamonn McKernan <eamonn at atmosp.physics.utoronto.ca> Subject: Clubs A few people have been asking about what homebrew club activities are effective and what aren't. I can offer one datapoint, but we're more of an organisation than a club. The Canadian Amateur Brewers Association boasts a membership of several hundred brewers. For the type of activities that we stage, this number represents basically a minimum size. Our major activities are typically day long events with multiple speakers and brewery tours. Smaller groups would find this harder I presume. But at least the brewery tours should be workable. We are restarting our flavour perception seminars soon. We expect a fairly strong demand. Most homebrewers would be interested in how to identify and diagnose problems in their beer. Finding someone with the technical knowledge to do this properly might be difficult for small clubs, but getting a few members to deliberately reproduce a few types of faults (hot ferment, over use of adjuncts, infections... other suggestions...?) and get a panel of judges to taste the beers would likely draw a good number of people. As for things that don't work, we have had practically no response to our brew buddy program (partnering beginners with advanced homebrewers) or to our brew doctor program (evaluating/diagnosing homebrew sent in). Since they're both free to members, I can confidently state that cost is clearly not an issue here. In sum, as a small national organisation CABA has found that staging large events draws a strong response, and offering personalised services is not successful. I bet the opposite is true for local clubs. I hope this is the type of response you were looking for, Cheers, Eamonn McKernan CABA secretary eamonn at atmosp.physics.utoronto.ca Return to table of contents
Date: 05 May 97 13:36:10 EDT From: JONY at rsa.cirrus.com (Jon Yusko) Subject: Hops Growing Question. My hop plants are now about 1 1/2 feet high and I need to create a trellis for them to grow upward. I am not sure what type of wire, string, etc to use that won't damage the vine but will also sustain the weight of the heavy vines. I talked to a local gardening rep, and he said not to use wire since it will cut into vines. True? Any feedback or previous experience would be appreciated. mmmm.. fresh Chinook cones! -Jon. - ----------------- Jon Yusko jony at rsa.cirrus.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 14:40:10 -0400 From: "Nathan L. Kanous II" <nkanous at tir.com> Subject: homebrew alcohol content Greetings. I think Domenick Venezia came closest with his: 1. your homebrew is generally stronger than the commercial beers you are comparing it against or 2. the homebrew contains some other nutrient or substance that increases your alcohol uptake rate or 3. The situations under which you drink commercial versus home brews affects the way that alcohol affects you. For example, homebrews are often drank alone without food. 4. You are drinking the wrong commercial brews. >From Goodman and Gilman's Pharmacological Basis of Therapeutics (no, I know it isn't a pharmacokinetics text, but Applied Pharmacokinetics doesn't discuss ethanol), we find "ethanol is rapidly absorbed from the stomach, small intestine, and colon". Watch out for those vodka enemas. They go on to state "many factors modify the absorption of ethanol from the stomach. At first absorption is rapid, but then it decreases to a very slow rate even though the gastric concentration is still high. If the emptying of the stomach is delayed, for example by the presence of food, the subsequent absorption of ethanol from the instestine will also be delayed. Absorption from the small intestine is exremely rapid and complete, and it is largely independent of the presence of food in the stomach or intestine. Indeed, the time of gastric emptying and, consequently, of the onset of the phase of extremely rapid intestinal absorption may well be the prime factor that determines the wide variety of rates of absorption of ingested ethanol that is seen in different individuals and under different conditions." So, if you hit up Burger King before you drink budmilloors, you delay gastric emptying (that's why a high fat breakfast took farmers through the entire day) and delay the absorption of alcohol (rate of absorption, not extent). However, if you and your friends drink homebrew on an empty stomach, absorption occurs much more quickly due to the fast transit into the small intestine. TTFN. Nathan in Frankenmuth, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 12:23:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Kevin Kane <kkane at uidaho.edu> Subject: Beer page For those of you who're looking for info on brewpubs around the U.S. and the world, check out Eric Wooten's Beer and Homebrewing Page. The URL is http://pekkel.uthscsa.edu/beer.html Eric has a fairly comprehensive list, but if you know of a place that's not on the list, do him a favor and send a _short_ review of your favorite brewpub (i.e. most notable styles and what you liked). Since others use this info, be sure that the address and phone number for the pub are correct. Eric assumes that you have the right data. There's a great deal of info on homebrewing on that page as well, including recipes and guidelines for homebrew. Many thanks, Eric! -Kevin Kevin M. Kane, Ph.D. Department of Chemistry University of Idaho Moscow, ID 83844 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 16:07:18 -0400 (EDT) From: DJBrew at aol.com Subject: Corn Grits vs Meal Corn Grits that you buy at the store are white corn but it is not just ground up corn. These are Hominy Grits which means they were processed with lye during there manufacture. These can been be used for brewing but will give a different flavor than corn. They corn GRITS that are used by the macros is yellow and the term grits is just refering to the size which is about half the size of a BB. I would suggest looking for course corn meal or course polenta. Polenta is corn meal but it is generaly larger than meal because it is cooked with water to make a mush. Most corn meal in the store is used more like flour to make bread so it needs to be finer. Hope this helps, Dan Soboti DJBrew at Aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 17:50:34 -0400 (EDT) From: MCer1235 at aol.com Subject: Immersion Chiller and Boil-Over Yesterday I used my new coverted 15.5gl kettle for the first time and I had a problem. Everything was fine until I put in my immersion chiller. I left to do something else and my 8gl batch boiled over. The chiller had some oxidation on it, but I thought that it would not be a big deal. What could have caused it? Thanks in advance, Rene' P.S. Can anyone tell me which method is better for lautering small mashes; Phil's Phalse Bottom, EZ Masher or the Zapap (sp?) method? I think private email would be best. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 20:45:19 -0400 (EDT) From: RedlackC at aol.com Subject: Re: Broken Thermometer Thank you all who replied to me in regards to my thermometer that broke in my mash. Based on the info that I received I've decided to press forth with the batch. The responses were as follows: Drank beer w/ same problem w/ no ill effects - 1 Pitched beer w/ same problem - 1 Red stuff is wax or safe epoxy - 2 Beads are iron & NOT lead - 2 Lead soluble in acids (wort) - 2 After checking the "lead" beads w/ a magnet they do not appear to be lead after all, but rather some other sort of metal which is attracted to magnet. At least now I can breathe a sigh of relief. There's nothing worse than having to pour out 5 gallons of delicious malted beverage. Thanks again, Chris Redlack Rockville, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 20:53:16 -0400 (EDT) From: LINUSNLILA at aol.com Subject: One solution for compressor cycling on your refrigerator Hey Y'all I have one solution for a refrigerator temperature controller that cycles on and off too often. I reasoned that my beer refrigerator temperature controller was more "interested" in controlling the temperature of the liquids in the fridge, rather than the temp of the air in the fridge. After all, the specific heat of air is magnitudes lower than that of water, so the hot air that is exchanged when you open the door to see how your beer is doing, which I do a lot more than is necessary, is not really enough to raise the temp of the liquids in the fridge by much. So what I did with my temp controller, which can be set for a narrow "deadband", is immerse the thermocouple (probe) in a 12 oz mason jar of water. The temperature of the 12 oz mason jar of water changes at about the same rate as any bottled beer I have in the fridge, so it won't freeze, but not nearly as quickly as the air temp in the fridge, so the compressor doesn't have to work as hard. It works, too; it keeps the water temp +/-2 degrees F of the setpoint, without cycling very much. Hope this helps someone else! Cheers, Linus Hall Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 21:06:39 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: Homebrew potency Someone asked last week why homebrew seemed to more quickly intoxicate a person than budmilloor type beers. I have a few theories. 1)Homebrewed ales are fermented at higher temps than mega lagers, and therefore probably have a larger percentage of higher alcohols in their makeup. While I don't claim to be an authority, I believe higher alcohols are more toxic than ethanol, and therefore more intoxicating. 2) Many homebrews are heavily hopped, and hops supposedly have a sedative like-property. 3)Homebrews are more flavorful than budmilloor-type beers, and this stronger flavor can cause a non-homebrewing drinker (we homebrewers know better!) to think they are drinking something stronger, so you get a kind of placebo effect. R.B.Ricchi "Should anyone thirst, let them come unto me and drink" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 18:11:25 -0700 From: "Curiouser and curiouser..." <RUDERMAN at Spark.esca.com> Subject: Enamel Kettles Hi all, I've been brewing with an enamel pot for the last 3 or 4 years. I use this pot to heat water and to boil wort (I use a Gott cooler to mash the grains). Lately, I have notices that when I am heating water for the mash, a strong burned malt aroma seems to be coming from the pot. The pot does not look too dirty (at least visibly) and I can not see any burned in bits of wort on the floor of the kettle. I know I am not supposed to use soaps with the pots for cleaning (I have been using a pad for teflon pots without soap for cleanings), but what recommendations do people have for cleaning enamel pots? Ideally, I'd like to be able to get rid of the buring aromas. Do those who use stainless steel kettles run into this problem as well (if so how do you remedy it)? Thanks in advance for your answers, Robert Ruderman (ruderman at esca.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 18:11:34 -0700 From: Charles Rich <CharlesR at saros.com> Subject: Pressure Follies - Trial brew goes awry. Strange beer results. Greetings HBD'ers, Just a datapoint. This weekend I took a whack at pressure cooking first runnings (promising), pressure bittering at high temps (playing with fire), and out of consideration for Charlies Burns' recent dismal results with protein rests, over-saccharification and decocting(!) with ale malt, I left out the protein rest to revisit the difference. If he can wreck his beer at my encouraging, I can wreck one too :-) I chose a Best Bitter (BJCP 4b) because it wants a malty note for = style, and might be more forgiving of heavier hopping. for a ten gallon (39 l) batch I used: 12 lbs British 2-row pale ale (26 kg) 3 lbs Belgian Munich (6.6 kg) 3/4 lbs Belgian Biscuit (1.7 kg) 3/4 lbs British Crystal (~80L) (1.7 kg) for color (unnecessary, see below)=20 I would normally have added more Crystal of a lighter color for caramel flavor but I anticipated forming my own such flavors in p-cooking the first runnings. I also would normally have added 1 lb (2.2 kg) of = flaked corn and 1 lb flaked wheat, but left them out to keep the protein picture simple, although the Munich contributes a bunch. I mashed at 154F (68C) with recirculation, for forty minutes and let = the temp ramp up to 162F (74C) over another 40-minutes to finish. I don't expect any significant difference due to proteins. Charlie B.s = problem's earlier were from too much beta-amylase activity, but I wanted to revisit the dextrin body vs. protein body question he implied. Won't know until ferment is finished.=20 So far, so good. I drew 2-1/2 gals (9.5 l) of 1070 first runnings and put them in the p-cooker for a forty minute cook at 250F (121C). For pressure bittering, my rough -swag- calculations indicated 1/8 oz = (3.5g) of 7.0 aa. hops for the ten gallon batch but I couldn't believe it. I meant to add a scant 1/4 oz (7g) Irish Northdown, since the wort was heavy too, but instead, misread the scale and used 1/2 oz (15g). Big mistake. In a much earlier post Charlie Scandrett had mentioned that mega = brewers can accomplish full alpha-isomerization in only two minutes at 284F (140C). I assumed that if they used a normal charge of bittering hops (I had to start somewhere) for 2 minutes at 284F, since I would boil at 250F for forty, that 1/8 - 1/4 oz would get me near the ballpark if not in it. I collected the remaining wort and let it come to boil with a first wort hopping with Fuggle and EKG while the first part p-cooked. After pressure cooking it for forty minutes the wort was brilliantly transparent and ruby-brown. I found in it clumps of hot break the size of oysters. It was quite bitter *but with no hop flavor*. The malty/caramel flavor was prominent and almost picquant, very well developed. The bitterness stood apart from it with no flavor integration. I will do this again (and probably again and again) but = at either a lower temp like 222-238F (105-114C) or for shorter times. = This will probably just have to be arrived at with experience, and should vary with beer style. As it turned out 1/8 - 1/4 oz (for ten gallons!) would have been about right, but my real objection to the process is that the resulting bitterness is devoid of flavor. This is a case where mega brewers simply have a different agenda and the cost savings for a home brewer, IMHO, aren't worth screwing up flavor and well known bittering behavior for. After adding this portion to the FWH things tasted better but still lacked dimension in the bittering. Since I had to boil for SMM evaporation and hop flavoring, I made little 1/2 oz additions every 20 minutes to work in some flavor. The result is overly bitter, I'd guess 60-80 IBU, the malt flavor swells later in the taste and is not objectionable but surprising. I would subdue it next time by cooking for 30 minutes at 232F (111C) and hope to keep it better integrated = with other flavors. I won't bother to pressure hop again, except as a = stunt. I'm fermenting this a few degrees higher than normal to develop more esters and diacetyl to help compensate the bittering. I think by the time it comes out of the fermenter it will be drinkable enough not to need a big salvage plan -- just odd. Cheers, Charles Rich (Seattle, USA) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 18:36:31 +0000 From: "Robert Marshall" <robertjm at hooked.net> Subject: re: seal on 5 gallon Gott cooler I purchased the Bulkhead Cooler fitting from HopTech. They're $10, but they're pretty good. My mashtun fit perfect, with not a drop out the seal. The sparge water tank leaked, but its because I didn't have the bulkhead fitting on properly. IMHO well worth the money!! Their number is 1-800-DRY-HOPS (usual disclaimer about no connection). Later, Robert Marshall robertjm at hooked.net http://www.hooked.net/users/robertjm Return to table of contents

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